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[Q] i997 Camera Pink Spot

My infuse 4g, camera photo showing the middle of a slight pink, do not know why, the friend know the solution

Yeah i film that saaweeet pink spot to..but i will never post it to youtube or whoever..lol.....i am good with this cam.one day it will be able to xray you and give us all cancer like our t.s.a.

Most phone cams have have this problem due to the very short optical path and the type of infrared filter used. Usually, they are calibrated for daylight. So, if you have a significant problem under daylight, I think your camera was not calibrated properly. With indoor lighting, it is to be expected.

Z3 Camera problem: Hardware or Software?

My Z3 camera has terrible white balance in Manual mode ( compared with the Z2, very stable in any light condition), especially under the high light, at some angles, the photo sometimes is overexposured, sometimes become very dark (?!)...here some example photo i took:
Manual:
- when pointing the camera straight to the light
DSC_0324 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
- When poiting the camera in lower angle to the light
DSC_0325 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Auto mode: the white balance is better as usual.
DSC_0326 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
DSC_0327 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Have any one got the same problem as mine? It is hardware fault or software that can be fixed in the future update?

hieuhd93 said:
My Z3 camera has terrible white balance in Manual mode ( compared with the Z2, very stable in any light condition), especially under the high light, at some angles, the photo sometimes is overexposured, sometimes become very dark (?!)...here some example photo i took:
Manual:
- when pointing the camera straight to the light
DSC_0324 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
- When poiting the camera in lower angle to the light
DSC_0325 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Auto mode: the white balance is better as usual.
DSC_0326 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
DSC_0327 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Have any one got the same problem as mine? It is hardware fault or software that can be fixed in the future update?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can't think of a way to sort this on this phone. The reason is the metering, rather than using "average" metering on manual like other phones, it uses a spot. So whatever you point at determines how bright the picture is.
Auto sorts this by changing modes probably to backlit etc, but then the photo's come out bad quality and fill of noise with no detail.
Unless Sony add average metering we will struggle.

beside this thing, the phone ccan do some really good photo in normal condition...Anyone had the same?

This is a good example of metering and how where you tap influences the shot. The issue isn't with white balance but rather exposure.
hieuhd93 said:
My Z3 camera has terrible white balance in Manual mode ( compared with the Z2, very stable in any light condition), especially under the high light, at some angles, the photo sometimes is overexposured, sometimes become very dark (?!)...here some example photo i took:
Manual:
- when pointing the camera straight to the light
DSC_0324 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ISO 80, 1/64, metering : spot
point at the light means ignore everything else so iso is low and fast exposure. Exposed for the light, ignores everything.
hieuhd93 said:
- When poiting the camera in lower angle to the light
DSC_0325 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ISO 1600, 1/25, metering : spot
When you say lower angle where exactly did you tap for focus ? was it the wall below the light or the clothes.
if you point at the dark area where the clothes are, camera thinks its dark and ups iso and blows out the image due to light close by.
You want to point somewhere its not too bright or too dark if using spot. if you point at the wall shot will be less overexposed.
hieuhd93 said:
Auto mode: the white balance is better as usual.
DSC_0326 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Auto shot, ISO 160, 1/32, meter is average
if you want to see the shot of the clothes center weighted is better. It means a circle (little bigger than spot) in the centre of the screen only will be considered for metering. Will ignore the light.
hieuhd93 said:
DSC_0327 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Auto shot, ISO 800, 1/64, meter is average.
ISO is too high. What did you do with this one ? where did you tap.
hieuhd93 said:
Have any one got the same problem as mine? It is hardware fault or software that can be fixed in the future update?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
there is no problem, this is how its supposed to work. When you include a bright source in your image it will overpower the others so you have to find a balance if you want to include that light in the shot. Or you could avoid the light.
Spot is sensitive so where you tap to get exposure matters depending on the scene.
SA defaults to average metering which is good when the light is similar across the scene, if there is very bright and dark it will just average everything and result isn't so good. Spot used carefully or center weighted will give a better result than average metering.

One Twelve said:
This is a good example of metering and how where you tap influences the shot. The issue isn't with white balance but rather exposure.
ISO 80, 1/64, metering : spot
point at the light means ignore everything else so iso is low and fast exposure. Exposed for the light, ignores everything.
ISO 1600, 1/25, metering : spot
When you say lower angle where exactly did you tap for focus ? was it the wall below the light or the clothes.
if you point at the dark area where the clothes are, camera thinks its dark and ups iso and blows out the image due to light close by.
You want to point somewhere its not too bright or too dark if using spot. if you point at the wall shot will be less overexposed.
Auto shot, ISO 160, 1/32, meter is average
if you want to see the shot of the clothes center weighted is better. It means a circle (little bigger than spot) in the centre of the screen only will be considered for metering. Will ignore the light.
Auto shot, ISO 800, 1/64, meter is average.
ISO is too high. What did you do with this one ? where did you tap.
there is no problem, this is how its supposed to work. When you include a bright source in your image it will overpower the others so you have to find a balance if you want to include that light in the shot. Or you could avoid the light.
Spot is sensitive so where you tap to get exposure matters depending on the scene.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your analyse. I choose meter: multiple spot and problem solved. I just dont get why it didn't take meter automatically as good as the Z2 (by default)...?

Post your z2 image on flickr.
Oh you removed the other shots too.

One Twelve said:
Post your z2 image on flickr.
Oh you removed the other shots too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Problem solved and amateur photos deleted . Tks for your concern

What was solved and how did you solve it

[Q] Lens for low light

So I know that most people buy those cheap lens kits for things like "wide angle, macro, fish eye", etc. My question is, If you use one of these lenses, does it also increase the amount of light going into the camera and create better low light photos as well? Thank you in advance!!!

Mi note 10 vs pro

Hello,
I have bought just yesterday the normal version (non pro) and I would like to ask if anyone knows the differences at the pictures between the 7p and 8p lenses? In theory the 8p can capture more light, but how is this translated in real life? Does it worth the extra money for that difference? (I have a 14 day window to return it this is why I ask)
Thanks

You will be blown by the photos you take with the normal version so you don't need to buy the pro version 6GB ram and 128GB Storage is enough for everything from gaming to taking photos, browsing and anything i can say.

No I really don't care about the more RAM and Rom. Just curious about the photos only!

I ordered the Pro. Should arrive next week. Frankie Tech on youtube will upload a camera comparison of the two very soon.

cycloholic said:
Hello,
I have bought just yesterday the normal version (non pro) and I would like to ask if anyone knows the differences at the pictures between the 7p and 8p lenses? In theory the 8p can capture more light, but how is this translated in real life? Does it worth the extra money for that difference? (I have a 14 day window to return it this is why I ask)
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
amount of lens group doesnt mean you can capture more light. Extra lens is used for correcting distortion, color aberration etc. The apperture itself is the same pro or not pro. So it should be able to capture same amount of light.
in daily usage, difference in camera result will be minor

Xiaomi said it should capture more light.
Why did I go for the Pro

Sorry if out of topic, I have a plan to buy this device, at the moment speak about lens (and apperture), some one says (mkbhd & droidlime) this device have a small focus area, and create a small focus object and large blur area, event the object is large in frame.
Maybe it's personal preference, but can this character can fix (create focus area larger) by software update or it's a hardware character and cannot change with software ?

Kasallamacher said:
Xiaomi said it should capture more light.
Why did I go for the Pro
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If anything, extra lens element is actually one extra layer of glass/plastic that will filter any light captured. So, better image maybe yes (by slight), but more light ? Am not sure how that works in photography logics, lol
---------- Post added at 07:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:16 PM ----------
adira.mardiani said:
Sorry if out of topic, I have a plan to buy this device, at the moment speak about lens (and apperture), some one says (mkbhd & droidlime) this device have a small focus area, and create a small focus object and large blur area, event the object is large in frame.
Maybe it's personal preference, but can this character can fix (create focus area larger) by software update or it's a hardware character and cannot change with software ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To understand this, you will need to understand the correlation between sensor size and depth of field.
Put it simple, bigger camera sensor have capability to geta shallower depth of field.
This is an advantage if you like to shot some scene which have a distinct foreground object, and want to have good separation with background. Think portrait, for example.
But this might become disadvantage when you try to get a lot of object to be in focus. Example would be a group shot with some people standing behind others. The one stand behind might be already out of focus range.
This is hardware characteristic, which applied to any camera out there. Back in film era, this happen to medium format cam. In digital camera era, you can compare the depth of field between full frame camera, APS-C camera and Micro 4/3rd camera. Image from full frame camera (which has bigger sensor than other) will always have smaller focus area (shallower depth of field) when being used in same apperture setting.
This is physics. Even if you try to compensate it using software (by put sharpening in object that located further from camera), it still there, the effect.
The only thing can change this is if smartphone camera start having an active apperture system (you can change F value). But since by today, all smartphone still using fixed apperture in its lenses, nothing can be done related to what you ask.
For more details about how sensor size affecting focus area :
https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/digital-camera-sensor-size.htm

otonieru said:
If anything, extra lens element is actually one extra layer of glass/plastic that will filter any light captured. So, better image maybe yes (by slight), but more light ? Am not sure how that works in photography logics, lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah doesn't make sense but at the same time Xiaomi didn't add another lense for the lols and didn't give that exact version to Dx0Mark for no reason...

Kasallamacher said:
yeah doesn't make sense but at the same time Xiaomi didn't add another lense for the lols and didn't give that exact version to Dx0Mark for no reason...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As i wrote above,
The extra lens definitely not for lol. Extra lens element is used for variety of reasons, mostly to correct distortion and color aberration. But definitely not for extra light reasons.

Kasallamacher said:
Xiaomi said it should capture more light.
Why did I go for the Pro
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Usually in a Lens group, more len can capture more light is true.
for example, 8p lens maybe capture 99.5% of light, but 7p lens maybe only 99.2%.
The different is not big.
But "more light" is not the major benefit.
Usually more lens may correct the image better to fit the sensor.

Mi note 10 pro has problem focusing
otonieru said:
To understand this, you will need to understand the correlation between sensor size and depth of field.
Put it simple, bigger camera sensor have capability to geta shallower depth of field.
This is an advantage if you like to shot some scene which have a distinct foreground object, and want to have good separation with background. Think portrait, for example.
But this might become disadvantage when you try to get a lot of object to be in focus. Example would be a group shot with some people standing behind others. The one stand behind might be already out of focus range.
This is hardware characteristic, which applied to any camera out there. Back in film era, this happen to medium format cam. In digital camera era, you can compare the depth of field between full frame camera, APS-C camera and Micro 4/3rd camera. Image from full frame camera (which has bigger sensor than other) will always have smaller focus area (shallower depth of field) when being used in same apperture setting.
This is physics. Even if you try to compensate it using software (by put sharpening in object that located further from camera), it still there, the effect.
The only thing can change this is if smartphone camera start having an active apperture system (you can change F value). But since by today, all smartphone still using fixed apperture in its lenses, nothing can be done related to what you ask.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi otonieru
I appreciate you explaining the relationship between sensor size and depth of field.
My new note 10 pro main camera seems to have trouble focusing even in good day light, it repeatedly focuses on the background instead of the person i want to photograph, even though i physically tap the person's face on screen. The 5x camera focuses fine though.
Do you think this is a hardware or software issue?
Many thanks!

Question deleted

deleted

Dead or blocked links on my end.
Upload a jpeg or two.

blackhawk said:
Dead or blocked links on my end.
Upload a jpeg or two.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, just updated the thread. Can you check again please ?

That's probably not a good example; the high light level on the fridge is skewing the exposure.
Try turning HDR on/off. Try a different exposure option.
There's some vignetting in the corners of both cams, this is typical of all lens.
Try a white picket fence to check for chromatic distortions.
It may be your display as well that's skewing the color rendering index if you're viewing it on the phone. On my N10+* both look similar as far as colors. The cam may not have enough light or the right color temperature of light to grab a good sample. Using a good color calibrated display and a good app like Canon DPP on the PC is the best way to get an accurate assessment. This can get very involved...
You will drive yourself nuts doing this... been there, done that with a malfunctioning pro cam.
If you're dissatisfied, return it for a cash refund.
*the Note 10+'s color rendering index and white point are near perfect. All the variable rate displays suffer from less precise color/gamma and white point calibration. All variable refresh rate displays are extremely hard to factory calibrate. This is a major reason I didn't get the N20U. More than likely this continues to be an issue with all variable refresh rate displays.

blackhawk said:
That's probably not a good example; the high light level on the fridge is skewing the exposure.
Try turning HDR on/off. Try a different exposure option.
There's some vignetting in the corners of both cams, this is typical of all lens.
Try a white picket fence to check for chromatic distortions.
It may be your display as well that's skewing the color rendering index if you're viewing it on the phone. On my N10+* both look similar as far as colors. The cam may not have enough light or the right color temperature of light to grab a good sample. Using a good color calibrated display and a good app like Canon DPP on the PC is the best way to get an accurate assessment. This can get very involved...
You will drive yourself nuts doing this... been there, done that with a malfunctioning pro cam.
If you're dissatisfied, return it for a cash refund.
*the Note 10+'s color rendering index and white point are near perfect. All the variable rate displays suffer from less precise color/gamma and white point calibration. All variable refresh rate displays are extremely hard to factory calibrate. This is a major reason I didn't get the N20U. More than likely this continues to be an issue with all variable refresh rate displays.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The camera doesn't have an option to turn off or on HDR, I think newer models don't have it. You can only turn off scene optimizer and that didn't change anything. I'm actually ok with the photos but if you look at the flowers on curtain at the top on the first pic they are almost brown/dark where they should be colorful/pink and that's correct on S20 FE's photo. It's not only this pic, when I take a picture of a tree for example the bole of tree is always too dark

This câmera is Sh**t on exynos….Upgraded to S22 ultra from a Oppo X3 FIND PRO…and…my god…oppo is so good on câmera…
s22 ultra has a lot of noIse indoors…
no HDR toogle ?? Wtf Samsung!

wholelottared said:
The camera doesn't have an option to turn off or on HDR, I think newer models don't have it. You can only turn off scene optimizer and that didn't change anything. I'm actually ok with the photos but if you look at the flowers on curtain at the top on the first pic they are almost brown/dark where they should be colorful/pink and that's correct on S20 FE's photo. It's not only this pic, when I take a picture of a tree for example the bole of tree is always too dark
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't see it. Color calibration is very good on this display but it's not a color calibrated display which is what you need. Even slight deviations in calibration can skew the colors.
Areas of abnormal darkness have more to do with metering. Samsung's metering algorithms might be screwed up or it could be hardware.
If it's vignette on the corners it's 100% the lense.
Compare the different cams as they use different lens and sensors.
It's a long tedious exercise you're getting into...
No use pulling hair when you can cut it; personally for many other reasons this isn't my flagship of choice. The cam is a somewhat secondary consideration for me.
You should like your shiny new flagship... return it if you don't is my best advice.

I found this about HDR. I found it can definitely screw up images.