So I got my Captivate, and I have a Micro-USB plug already, six feet!! It is good for where I have it, but as we all know, the Captivate's USB plug is stupid.
Is it fine as is? It makes a connection, but it isn't "fully" in. Should I be concerned? Should I wear down one of the ends? What, er, should I do?
If the plug isn't fully in because it seems to be hitting the door, try pressing on the door again and see if it clicks. The port cover slides open and then hangs, you have to push a little harder and it will click all the way open.
You should use a razor blade or something of the like to trim the rubber around the MicroUSB plug, making it thinner like the usb cord that came with the phone. I had the same issue with a bunch of MicroUSB chargers I have, and 10 seconds with a razor fixed em all.
After a bunch of shaving and potentially damaging it, I think it was just the door not clicked far enough! But now it is a lot easier to tell what side is what
I miss my Touch Pro's charger, with the black and white braided cable. It fell flat too, instead of this cable, which is like a regular cable and sticks out. I have to knock it into shape I guess.
thehyecircus said:
So I got my Captivate, and I have a Micro-USB plug already, six feet!! It is good for where I have it, but as we all know, the Captivate's USB plug is stupid.
Is it fine as is? It makes a connection, but it isn't "fully" in. Should I be concerned? Should I wear down one of the ends? What, er, should I do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like how you didn't have the door all the way open, so you put us all in your boat by saying we all know the cable is stupid. Then ask if you should be concerned. Then to top it off, not say thank you to the person who suggested making sure the door was open.
I swear......
Edit: Oh, and the stock cable that the phone came with is curved on the plug making for easy and successful male to female connection.
From a phone
thehyecircus said:
So I got my Captivate, and I have a Micro-USB plug already, six feet!! It is good for where I have it, but as we all know, the Captivate's USB plug is stupid.
Is it fine as is? It makes a connection, but it isn't "fully" in. Should I be concerned? Should I wear down one of the ends? What, er, should I do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is "er", "stupid" about the Captivate plug?
The door is pretty god damn retarded.
Another day, another brilliant decision by Samsung, another facepalm by you.
thehyecircus said:
What, er, should I do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Box it up and take it back.
boborone said:
I like how you didn't have the door all the way open, so you put us all in your boat by saying we all know the cable is stupid. Then ask if you should be concerned. Then to top it off, not say thank you to the person who suggested making sure the door was open.
I swear......
Edit: Oh, and the stock cable that the phone came with is curved on the plug making for easy and successful male to female connection.
From a phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable is stupid. Number one, I am not using the stock cable, I made that clear at the start. Second, the port is recessed into the phone. There have been more than numerous complaints about this. Third, I have seen many people talk about having to cut their USB cord to get it to fit. FOURTH, even with the door open, it is not a complete connection, but a much better connection nonetheless.
What are you coming at me for? I didn't design the phone. The door is a stupid, needless idea and it causes problems. Are you going to blindly defend the phone?
Wow. Everyone really fighting over the usb port?! Open the door all the way and there is no issues with it. I use all kind of usb plugs, and they all work fine. If you don't like it, get a new phone, that will fix your issues.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
thehyecircus said:
The cable is stupid. Number one, I am not using the stock cable, I made that clear at the start. Second, the port is recessed into the phone. There have been more than numerous complaints about this. Third, I have seen many people talk about having to cut their USB cord to get it to fit. FOURTH, even with the door open, it is not a complete connection, but a much better connection nonetheless.
What are you coming at me for? I didn't design the phone. The door is a stupid, needless idea and it causes problems. Are you going to blindly defend the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
in all fairness, you said NOTHING about not using the samsung cord in your first post....in fact, i had to go back and reread that a couple more times after this post just to comprehend it.
english-use it
Pirateghost said:
in all fairness, you said NOTHING about not using the samsung cord in your first post....in fact, i had to go back and reread that a couple more times after this post just to comprehend it.
english-use it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
"So I got my Captivate, and I have a Micro-USB plug already, six feet!!"
Why don't you learn to read? If I have a plug already... why would you think I was using the plug that came with it? I specified the plug, and that it was six feet long, which is not the length of the cord it comes with.
There's a plug..and there's a cord...what, ER, are you referring to?
thehyecircus said:
"So I got my Captivate, and I have a Micro-USB plug already, six feet!!"
Why don't you learn to read? If I have a plug already... why would you think I was using the plug that came with it? I specified the plug, and that it was six feet long, which is not the length of the cord it comes with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i know how to read. it is unfortunate that you feel the need to try and belittle anyone that does not understand your jibber jabber. think you could translate all that to english and construct a properly formed sentence?
i was merely enforcing the fact that people were confused by your rantings and my guess is that 50% of the people that read your thread were just plain confused.
Pirateghost said:
i know how to read. it is unfortunate that you feel the need to try and belittle anyone that does not understand your jibber jabber. think you could translate all that to english and construct a properly formed sentence?
i was merely enforcing the fact that people were confused by your rantings and my guess is that 50% of the people that read your thread were just plain confused.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So it is unfortunate that I feel the need to "try" and belittle you, but you think it is okay to come into a topic where every reply before one from Boborone was exactly on topic and understood a very common issue exactly and belittle me.
thehyecircus said:
So it is unfortunate that I feel the need to "try" and belittle you, but you think it is okay to come into a topic where every reply before one from Boborone was exactly on topic and understood a very common issue exactly and belittle me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no i was standing up for the guy that you basically called a retard, and letting you know that your first post was not clear.
i was not trying to belittle you with my first post in this thread.
if you cannot comprehend such things, i would suggest you take a minute to think about it.
Pirateghost said:
no i was standing up for the guy that you basically called a retard, and letting you know that your first post was not clear.
i was not trying to belittle you with my first post in this thread.
if you cannot comprehend such things, i would suggest you take a minute to think about it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never called him such a thing, but the topic has been clear to everyone except a few stubborn folk. Now please, there shouldn't be any fighting here and I hate having to bump this each time to just to respond to you over nothing. It was a very clear topic. Even if you could not understand my first post, there were on-topic replies. The only way to not understand this post is to not want to. And you simply don't want to.
God bless us every one.....
gunnyman said:
God bless us every one.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hahaha
Alright guys lets just drop it. I read some of the guy's other topics and it seems that reading and searching are not strong suites.
To put things in perspective, I thought of an old buddy of mine. We went to a titty bar, all nude. He asked me where to put the money. Some things come natural to some, others over think it.
Merry Christmas
Just put my tree up
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1200 lights on an 8 ft tree
From a phone
From a phone
Pretty. Sideways, but pretty.
Related
I'm curious if anyone has a made their own dock that uses the three small charging contacts on the bottom of the N1 instead of using the microUSB port.
So far, I have not seen any 3rd party dock that uses those contact pads. Or maybe someone has figured out a power and/or resistor combination that touches those contact pads and tricks the phone into thinking it's in the Google dock.
Does anyone at least know which two of the three contacts is for 5V and Ground? I don't really care about the one that allows the instant BT sync with the Google dock.
Hi there, I am interested in doing myself as well. I found this on the net, please let me know how you go. I am still waiting for my phone from Google.
tedSmith123 said:
Hi there, I am interested in doing myself as well. I found this on the net, please let me know how you go. I am still waiting for my phone from Google.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's pretty simple if this is the case. I'm a bit concerned about trying it. What's the worst that can happen? I've got a 5V source right here.
So I got out my multimeter and I can at least confirm that the ground labeled in the picture does lead to the ground for the battery. The +5V does not seem to connect though, but it may only connect while ground is connected first. I'm not an electrical engineer or anything close. I think I'll test it out this weekend. Get an old USB cable, cut the one end off, use some test lead and try it. I'll update my finding later.
I would suggest we keep watching this thread. They are already talking about similar docks.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=628094
Just tried it. The diagram above is correct. Phone responds to connection and says "Charging..."
Nice
St.Jimmy! said:
Just tried it. The diagram above is correct. Phone responds to connection and says "Charging..."
Nice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome, now I'll just have to hope that someone figures how to get the phone tricked into thinking it in the Google dock so that it goes into the clock automatically. I'm hoping it'll be something simple like a resistor, cause that would be easy to wire up. If not, then I'll have to go with my idea of cannibalizing an actual Google dock to make it work.
First let me say I am not trying to be a jerk....but...what would make anyone think that a resistor would be applied to one of the pins as a "signal"? This is 2010 not 1978...signals are digital not analog. I saw 3 pins and instantly knew: power, ground, digital data.
I am only saying this all as a warning to what seems like a growing group of people with no electronics knowledge that think it is a good idea to start jamming voltages through a resistor into a fairly expensive phone...granted it shouldnt hurt anything as long as it is 5v or less...but still.
So be careful and dont break your stuff :-/
Mike
mike105105 said:
First let me say I am not trying to be a jerk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fail, came across very jerk like to me
mike105105 said:
what would make anyone think that a resistor would be applied to one of the pins as a "signal"? This is 2010 not 1978...signals are digital not analog. I saw 3 pins and instantly knew: power, ground, digital data.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The ipod/iphone dock connector uses exactly that setup to determine what type of device it's hooked up to. I know it's a dedicated pin and used for nothing else, but that kind of setup is still used to this day. It's simple and it work (KISS=Keep it simple stupid). I'm sure it won't be that simple in the case of the N1, but I did say I hope it's something "like" a resistor, which implies something that is equally as simple.
mike105105 said:
I am only saying this all as a warning to what seems like a growing group of people with no electronics knowledge that think it is a good idea to start jamming voltages through a resistor into a fairly expensive phone...granted it shouldnt hurt anything as long as it is 5v or less...but still.
So be careful and dont break your stuff :-/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If there is someone willing to try something no one else has, then that's their prerogative. Sure the internet has all the info one could ever need to be able to figure out how things work with out ever having to try anything for themselves, but where is the fun in that. I for one learn better by doing than by reading. But I also know my limits. I will be the first person to admit that I don't 1/1000th of the stuff there is to know about electronics and IC's and electrical engineering, etc. I will research and research and research until my eyes can't focus and my brain can't process anymore info because I don't want to brick my nice new phone. I am however willing to try something if it seems relatively safe.
So your warnings are heeded, but please just try to show a little respect for those brave and enterprising individuals who are willing try something just to see how it works. We wouldn't even have the custom software and hardware ROM/MOD scene if it wasn't for those people.
Folx,
I dont recall where, but there is a thread out there, where some1 with a scope collected the waveforms from the 3rd pin. There appears to be some form of (simplified) digital communication that happens between the "official" dock and the N1. Not sure if it is unidirectional or what, but it is a short pulse train, at about 100 Hz or so. May be it's sole purpose it for N1 to recognize the presence of the dock and to initiate BT communication and launch the clock app. Dunno.
Well sorry if I came across like a jerk.
As far as what the ipod dock uses, that sounds backwards just like apple. Today the way to keep it simple is digital communication not analog because all you need is one pin off of a microcontroller with minimal support circuitry.
I am all for people trying to figure things out, I was just trying to point out the danger of doing things without having a more advanced electronics knowledge, I dont think anyone wants to damage a $540 phone and just thought to warn you.
garfnodie said:
Fail, came across very jerk like to me
The ipod/iphone dock connector uses exactly that setup to determine what type of device it's hooked up to. I know it's a dedicated pin and used for nothing else, but that kind of setup is still used to this day. It's simple and it work (KISS=Keep it simple stupid). I'm sure it won't be that simple in the case of the N1, but I did say I hope it's something "like" a resistor, which implies something that is equally as simple.
If there is someone willing to try something no one else has, then that's their prerogative. Sure the internet has all the info one could ever need to be able to figure out how things work with out ever having to try anything for themselves, but where is the fun in that. I for one learn better by doing than by reading. But I also know my limits. I will be the first person to admit that I don't 1/1000th of the stuff there is to know about electronics and IC's and electrical engineering, etc. I will research and research and research until my eyes can't focus and my brain can't process anymore info because I don't want to brick my nice new phone. I am however willing to try something if it seems relatively safe.
So your warnings are heeded, but please just try to show a little respect for those brave and enterprising individuals who are willing try something just to see how it works. We wouldn't even have the custom software and hardware ROM/MOD scene if it wasn't for those people.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
rashid11 said:
Folx,
I dont recall where, but there is a thread out there, where some1 with a scope collected the waveforms from the 3rd pin. There appears to be some form of (simplified) digital communication that happens between the "official" dock and the N1. Not sure if it is unidirectional or what, but it is a short pulse train, at about 100 Hz or so. May be it's sole purpose it for N1 to recognize the presence of the dock and to initiate BT communication and launch the clock app. Dunno.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just searched for 5 minutes and couldn't find it. Could you please try to remember where you saw it? Or any keyword that might pop up?
Dock+Signal did the trick
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=631508
mike105105 said:
Well sorry if I came across like a jerk.
As far as what the ipod dock uses, that sounds backwards just like apple. Today the way to keep it simple is digital communication not analog because all you need is one pin off of a microcontroller with minimal support circuitry.
I am all for people trying to figure things out, I was just trying to point out the danger of doing things without having a more advanced electronics knowledge, I dont think anyone wants to damage a $540 phone and just thought to warn you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would also like to point out that the 5th wire in mini and micro usb cables can be used with a resistor to indicated device presence.
http://pinouts.ru/Devices/mini-USB_pinout.shtml
I will agree though that apple likes to do things backwards. They have a habit of bucking the trends, or making new ones, and even changing old ones to suit their needs.
What about current? What should the current on the +5V input be? Can someone with an original dock measure it?
5v .5a for a slow charge, 5v 1a for a normal charge
(think ebay charger vs htc charger)
I am having issues with my Captivate's micro-USB port being loose. This is my second Captivate, and although it's still under warranty, the first one was RMA'd with the same issue. I never drop the phone while charging, etc, and I've tried multiple chargers so I really can't see why this would be happening. Both phones were 1008 versions, not sure if the 1008 is known to have this issue, or if I just have horrid luck. If anyone here can solder / fix the phone, I'm hesitant to go to AT&T again, as last time they made me go to the store and have the person working there verify that the USB port was not broken (luckily it still charged if you held it a certain way, and even more luckily I was able to flash stock before returning it!). Anyways, this phone is a refurb, and I did call and almost get it replaced as soon as I got it, as it had this issue slightly upon arrival, but decided it would be a hassle. It's only been about a month since the RMA, so I'm pretty sure that if I try now, they're going to get very mean about it, and possibly try and send me a bill for the phone, not to mention, the guy at the AT&T store will probably think something is up.
Any ideas are welcome, I love my Captivate, and I was just getting into develping on XDA :S
Sent from my Cappy using XDA Premium App
I actually found a fix to my issue. I actually was looking at it one day, and figured that in theory, it should be easy to fix, so I (CAREFULLY!!!) took a small knife I had and gently bent the inner part of the port up just a tad (it looked like it was too far down, and yes, I know it's supposed to be far down, but not that far), and it actually worked perfectly.
Thats weird... It kinda has to be what you're doing with it, since mine doesn't even have an irregular slight wiggle.
Obviously it could be just your luck but i doubt it.
edit: and who cares if the att dude thinks somethings up... its your $500..
Like I said, the second one actually had the issue upon arrival, but it was barely noticeable (the USB port would work, but if you moved the phone a lot, etc, it'd disconnect, then reconnect). I called in and talked to them, but decided not to RMA because it'd be a pain (in hindsight I should have...), and the problem just got worse.
Is the port internally lose? Or just when you plug a cable in it wiggles alot? Ive heard about people stretching the casing inside the port from alot of flashing (plugging in the usb). But if the hole port moves inside the phone thats no good lol. You should try to locate a nearby device service center and show them the problem and make sure you walk out with refurb thats fine. Dont worry about the people at atnt questioning it. Hell I use to walk in and just say "gps dosent work" and they would switch it out no questions.
What you said makes sense, the port looks like it's pretty sturdy, it's just that the cable wiggles a LOT, and it makes it hard to get it to even register.
I had the same issue but a new cable solved it
Sent from my samsung captivation
erraz said:
I had the same issue but a new cable solved it
Sent from my samsung captivation
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also had this issue, i opened up the stock Samsung Cable end to find that two of the four wires had insufficient strain relief and broke off at the solder joints
Oddly enough I had issues with the first cable as well, but I replaced it, and have tried others from my current.
I was searching through Amazon and found this battery by Hyperion. Anyone willing to test it? I would, but my Mugen and my Qcell are good enough for me.
Hyperion T-Mobile HTC MyTouch Slide 4G 3500mAh Extended Battery + Back Cover
Too bad the shipping is $4.49 and it's not a Prime eligible item or i'd be all over it...
blackknightavalon said:
I was searching through Amazon and found this battery by Hyperion. Anyone willing to test it? I would, but my Mugen and my Qcell are good enough for me.
Hyperion T-Mobile HTC MyTouch Slide 4G 3500mAh Extended Battery + Back Cover
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I had not just ordered one of those 2450 mAh "Gold" batteries, I would jump all over this. My only issue is the need for a bump in the cover. I know it isn't huge, but it still adds extra thickness and just doesn't look as nice.
Once again, if you don't want a phone that you know is in your hand or case and will break on the slightest impact, get an iPhone.
Sent from Spaceball One.
blackknightavalon said:
Once again, if you don't want a phone that you know is in your hand or case and will break on the slightest impact, get an iPhone.
Sent from Spaceball One.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
iPhone is a "piece of art" Hence, in theory it may be a phone too, but as a "piece of art" it supposed to be stared at, not used...
Good find with this battery, blackknightavalon!
Seller's images on amazon:
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I had some "Hyperion" battery (assuming it is the same brand?) for one of my old phones and it worked fine.
I may buy it, however it won't fit into my holster or my "night table stand" (dock) anymore... gotta think about it.
Certainly price is excellent.
MT4GS said:
iPhone is a "piece of art" Hence, in theory it may be a phone too, but as a "piece of art" it supposed to be stared at, not used...
Good find with this battery, blackknightavalon!
Seller's images on amazon:
I had some "Hyperion" battery (assuming it is the same brand?) for one of my old phones and it worked fine.
I may buy it, however it won't fit into my holster or my "night table stand" (dock) anymore... gotta think about it.
Certainly price is excellent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just remember my criticism of the Qcell battery. That one may last as long as a Mugen but sudden, violent shakes causes it to fall off the leads. Buyer beware.
Just Ordered Two
Hey everyone, been reading these boards for a long time, first time posting. Awesome site, very informative. I just rooted my 4g Slide with CM9 and after two days of relatively fast battery drain, have ordered two of these. Once they arrive, I can let you all know how they turn out. Any recommendations for a good screenshot tool?
EDIT: Nevermind, CM9 has a screenshot tool built in, just found it.
eparico said:
Hey everyone, been reading these boards for a long time, first time posting. Awesome site, very informative. I just rooted my 4g Slide with CM9 and after two days of relatively fast battery drain, have ordered two of these. Once they arrive, I can let you all know how they turn out. Any recommendations for a good screenshot tool?
EDIT: Nevermind, CM9 has a screenshot tool built in, just found it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go with "screenshot" by Kastor Soft. Much more versatile.
blackknightavalon said:
Go with "screenshot" by Kastor Soft. Much more versatile.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I'll check it out.
New batteries came in yesterday, I took some pictures that I'll post later but they're at home right now As a comparison, they're about twice as thick as the OEM batteries so they're going to add some weight to your phone. So far after 4 hours, made one phone call, checked my FB app a few times (Friendcaster) and my weather app but haven't done a whole lot more, the battery is down to 92% which is much better than the OEM running CM9 where I'd probably be down to around 70% by now. I'm not looking for a miracle, just hoping the charge will last me the day.
If anyone can let me know how to post these pics in the message instead of uploading as an attachment, it would be a help. I'm being asked for a URL...am I supposed to upload the pic to another site first?
eparico said:
New batteries came in yesterday, I took some pictures that I'll post later but they're at home right now As a comparison, they're about twice as thick as the OEM batteries so they're going to add some weight to your phone. So far after 4 hours, made one phone call, checked my FB app a few times (Friendcaster) and my weather app but haven't done a whole lot more, the battery is down to 92% which is much better than the OEM running CM9 where I'd probably be down to around 70% by now. I'm not looking for a miracle, just hoping the charge will last me the day.
If anyone can let me know how to post these pics in the message instead of uploading as an attachment, it would be a help. I'm being asked for a URL...am I supposed to upload the pic to another site first?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I upload my pics to photobucket, then copy the image code and paste it in whatever thread I am responding to.
Technically this is $15. Shipping is $5 and at the end of the day, that's still $$$ out of your pocket. OP should update the title
gtmaster303 said:
Technically this is $15. Shipping is $5 and at the end of the day, that's still $$$ out of your pocket. OP should update the title
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope. The battery itself is still $10. The prices never include the shipping.
Sent from Spaceball One.
Ok, so being a newbie to this site, I'm not allowed to post outside links until I get to 10 so they're attached instead. Found out the hard way that I can't post links yet...
Here's a size comparison with the OEM and the Hyperion. As you can see, they're double the size. Despite the bulky size, this battery has done me well for the last few days. I keep pretty much everything turned on (data, gps, wifi, bluetooth).
Some stats from the other day when I first got the batteries. 19+ hours uptime, did some texting, made a few calls and after getting home from work, did a boatload of browsing the web, playing on Stumbleupon, more texting, YouTube, pretty much anything that can kill a battery fast. Can't say I'm disappointed at all. Like I mentioned, not looking for miracles here, just need a battery to last me the day. Just flashed CM9 alpha 5 today so more testing will be done.
Not sure what other info might be needed but let me know and I'll post.
Thanks Yellowjacket and Blackknight for the info you provided in the previous posts. Sorry for the delay, had some personal issues to deal with. Cheers!
EDIT: Forgot to mention, if you're taking the battery cover off, be wary of the battery disconnecting relatively quickly from the phone. To disconnect, you don't even need to take the cover off entirely, just pop it out a little bit and it's enough to power the phone off.
eparico said:
If anyone can let me know how to post these pics in the message instead of uploading as an attachment, it would be a help. I'm being asked for a URL...am I supposed to upload the pic to another site first?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are many sites where you can upload pics. If you use google (99% sure you do since you use Android phone) you may want to link them from your Picasa. However if you prefer to do anonymously (like I do) use any of the freebie websites, i would suggest ImageShack (because many sites came and go but they are still there, and it is very easy on their site to go around their ads when you want to post actual picture).
Once you have your picture's url simply type this in your post:
Code:
[.IMG]http://YourImageUrlGoesHere.jpg[/IMG.]
/edit - the code tags don't work for other tags, it actually wanted to appear as photo in my post lol, so I added dots to prevent it: when you type it DO remove them (the first dot between "[" and "I", and the last dot between "G" and "]"
and it should appear as picture in your post.
I did it this way in my first posts here too when I wasn't "allowed" to add attachments
HTH
---------- Post added at 06:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:13 AM ----------
eparico said:
EDIT: Forgot to mention, if you're taking the battery cover off, be wary of the battery disconnecting relatively quickly from the phone. To disconnect, you don't even need to take the cover off entirely, just pop it out a little bit and it's enough to power the phone off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1 - Is it possible to use scotch tape or something to hold it in place when removing back cover?
2 - Is there enough space underneath this battery's cover - above or below the battery (most likely below since above is camera) - to use it as i.e. storage for SD cards? (that's what I used to do with my large Mugen battery on my old HTC TyTN II )
Thanks for your pics and info.
For the purpose of uploading the pics to the actual message instead of adding as an attachment, I opened a Photobucket account and tried two different methods to add them in, once by the HTML code and the second time by using the URL, both of which returned the same result with a message telling me I couldn't until I reached the 10 posts. I'll give your method a shot again to see if I can get it to work. Hopefully, I won't have to worry about that much longer anyway
I'll also check out the sites you recommended. Thanks for the info.
To answer your questions:
1. Adding tape is probably the way to go. It seems these batteries are the slightest bit shorter than the OEM which actually led me to a new problem. Twice today, I must have jarred the phone enough to where it disconnected while it was in my pocket and had to be booted back up. I'm not heavily reliant on my phone so no big deal but I also don't want it randomly disconnecting. Messing around a few moments ago, I gave my phone a shake and it was enough to cause it to disconnect. I folded a small piece of paper and taped it to the end of the battery to make the fit a bit more snug and it seems to have done the trick. I gave the phone a real hard shake after putting the paper/tape on there and it didn't disconnect.
I'm thinking I should have only ordered one of these batteries instead of two...lesson learned.
2. There's more than enough room to store a small collection of SD cards below the battery cover...great idea by the way, now that I have a large cover I may store my spares in there too!
Cheers!
Bump. How's this battery doing after a month? Any long term updates?
Sent from my doubleshot using xda app-developers app
macksgarage said:
Bump. How's this battery doing after a month? Any long term updates?
Sent from my doubleshot using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's been doing a pretty darn good job. I keep everything turned on (wifi, bluetooth, data, gps) and have gotten three days out of a single charge. I don't have any screenshots to show you right now but I can post them when I run the battery again.
I also bought an Anker charger for these batteries but it turns out they don't charge nearly as well as charging the phone/battery through a USB port on my computer. I was only getting one to one and a half days using the Anker. If anyone might have some insight to share on this, is there a difference between using a USB port on a computer as compared to plugging into a wall socket that would cause the battery to lose charge more quickly?
That's what I was hoping to hear. Still on the stock battery So I think I'll order of these tonight. I trust the backplate isn't falling off like all the other 3500 mAh batteries.
Sent from my myTouch_4G_Slide using xda app-developers app
Some of my various accumulated wall chargers seem to fill better than others. For reasons unknown. A couple are complete crap, and don't saturate even over night. And don't even get me started on the ones that cause car panel or voice dialing to start automatically when plugged in.or the one that freezes my touchscreen and nearly made me kp. The included HTC cable and USB charge block work well, as does gf's factory Samsung charger.
Sent from my myTouch_4G_Slide using xda app-developers app
Thread dedicated to hardware specific findings for 4.1 android head units.
General discussion found on this thread forked here to avoid making an already super long thread too much longer with hardware details most people don't really care about.
OP is a Placeholder for now, will expand and keep updated with any findings later.
Pics
Preliminary closeups uploaded to flicker.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/
In my urge to take closeups and readable pics of chips I managed not to snap any picture of the whole boart, especially the top part of the board. I believe @KID52 had some pics posted early on either in the OUKU thread or the AN-21 U thread...
The Android daughterboard is soldered on the bottom side, we can see a couple of unpopulated headers, one of which could be a possible ADB...
Also we can see the GPS antenna connects directly to that board, as opposed to BT board (sorry no good pic yet, we can see a corner of it on the right side of this image), TV, DVD, and just about everything else...
A few good shots of the MCU chip STM8AH 6189TAKIT. From the spec sheet we can see it's a FLASH no EPROM type 64Kb flash memory 64 pin LQFP package rated -40 to 85 Celsius (not the best for automotive if you ask me).
Also we can see that the reset and swim (pins 1 and 58) connect to nothing, killing the hope that Conn 6 could be a programmer connector for the mcu (following traces, that seems to be a video input)
Also interesting is U9: 74HC4052 4-channel analog multiplexer/demultiplexer
From the other thread.
KID52 said:
For those interested, here are some internal shots. Not the best as I used my phone, but not awful either.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
KID52 said:
From the other thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! Glad to see that the mainboard seems Identical to mine even though it's from a different face model. I'm sure the electronics for color change are in the face board wich is significantly different but connects the same way.
If thee is no other options a replacement board shouldn't be too expensive considering there is single knob units out there for ~$300 complete
Wow. Thanks you guys. I must have missed KID52's post from the other thread somehow. But, it definitely gives me better context. It looks like the "MCU" is actually the main board and the "ARM (Android)" is a daughterboard to it. I am now beginning to wonder if the units prior to this had the similar internals and the "MCU" was just disguised to look like Windows CE.
---------- Post added at 08:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:47 PM ----------
I know this is not a picture of an AN 21-U variant but here's the innards of the S150 where someone was able to figure out how to connect via ADB to the Android board on the unit. There are more pictures and useful information linked to the picture below. Maybe it will help someone get an idea of the possibilities to interact with the individual components.
[url=http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=49388082#post49388082]KoTiX2[/url] said:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
donaldta said:
Wow. Thanks you guys. I must have missed KID52's post from the other thread somehow. But, it definitely gives me better context. It looks like the "MCU" is actually the main board and the "ARM (Android)" is a daughterboard to it. I am now beginning to wonder if the units prior to this had the similar internals and the "MCU" was just disguised to look like Windows CE.
---------- Post added at 08:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:47 PM ----------
I know this is not a picture of an AN 21-U variant but here's the innards of the S150 where someone was able to figure out how to connect via ADB to the Android board on the unit. There are more pictures and useful information linked to the picture below. Maybe it will help someone get an idea of the possibilities to interact with the individual components.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm kind of thinking in our case it might be easier than that, the empty pads on the bottom right of the daughterboard kind of look like a usb connector... Am I going to have the balls to test that theory?.... Not sure, unless I end up with a spare board if the MCU doesn't get fixed by the upcoming update...
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Kind of funny the size of that daughterboard is about the size of a smartphone...
sciallo said:
I'm kind of thinking in our case it might be easier than that, the empty pads on the bottom right of the daughterboard kind of look like a usb connector... Am I going to have the balls to test that theory?.... Not sure, unless I end up with a spare board if the MCU doesn't get fixed by the upcoming update...
Kind of funny the size of that daughterboard is about the size of a smartphone...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just from looking at it I don't think its USB pinout.. you can see pin-2 is connected to ground, my guess is TTL serial.. power, ground and rx/tx perhaps. Could just be a serial I/O for the GPS since it's in such close proximity
Black6spdZ said:
Just from looking at it I don't think its USB pinout.. you can see pin-2 is connected to ground, my guess is TTL serial.. power, ground and rx/tx perhaps. Could just be a serial I/O for the GPS since it's in such close proximity
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see your point....
Kind of hard to follow traces without being able to see the other side... Not about to ohm traces out either as that has burned me before. Multimeters (at least any of the ones I have) do apply a small amount of voltage to ohm things out... In circuits like these, enough to throw things off...
sciallo said:
Kind of hard to follow traces without being able to see the other side... Not about to ohm traces out either as that has burned me before. Multimeters (at least any of the ones I have) do apply a small amount of voltage to ohm things out... In circuits like these, enough to throw things off...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You never want to measure resistance on a live circuit. That's a "don't do" multimeter 101 lesson. Not only do you get false readings, you can also end up damaging the multimeter. If you need to get the impedance on a live circuit, the proper thing is to extrapolate it through VIR equation. Using the measurement of the voltage pressure and current as variables.
In any case, if you are interested here is an article, "Reverse Engineering Serial Ports", that describes a way of identifying serial ports. And if you're looking for an awesome tool, check out the Bus Pirate and the JTAGulator.
donaldta said:
You never want to measure resistance on a live circuit. That's a "don't do" multimeter 101 lesson. Not only do you get false readings, you can also end up damaging the multimeter. If you need to get the impedance on a live circuit, the proper thing is to extrapolate it through VIR equation. Using the measurement of the voltage pressure and current as variables.
In any case, if you are interested here is an article, "Reverse Engineering Serial Ports", that describes a way of identifying serial ports. And if you're looking for an awesome tool, check out the Bus Pirate and the JTAGulator.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I was talking non live circuit either, no power to the board, the multimeter puts enough on it to mess things up ins some rare cases...
REALLY interesting tools! I'll have to do some more reading...
Black6spdZ said:
Just from looking at it I don't think its USB pinout.. you can see pin-2 is connected to ground, my guess is TTL serial.. power, ground and rx/tx perhaps. Could just be a serial I/O for the GPS since it's in such close proximity
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heh, heh... I just noticed the silk screen next to the back fabric tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
donaldta said:
Heh, heh... I just noticed the silk screen next to the back fabric tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice! I was looking at the pic last night and surprised I missed that
I noticed that, how do we figure out what kind of rx tx those are... couldn't that be about anything? I2C, serial, USB... Again, If I end up witha MCU less spare I won't be too afraid to mess with it heavily...
sciallo said:
I noticed that, how do we figure out what kind of rx tx those are... couldn't that be about anything? I2C, serial, USB... Again, If I end up witha MCU less spare I won't be too afraid to mess with it heavily...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well... it wouldn't be I²C because that it is a bidirectional bus with two lines; Serial DAta (SDA) and Serial CLock line (SCL) to interconnect the devices. Whereas most analog serial use unidirectional data lines, most commonly paired with Transmit (TX) and Receive (RX). It would not be USB since that uses a pair of bidirectional differential signaling lines; D+ (Data High) and D- (Data Low). However, if you think those labels are misleading then that's where a Bus Pirate or a JTAGulator comes in to play.
donaldta said:
Well... it wouldn't be I²C because that it is a bidirectional bus with two lines; Serial DAta (SDA) and Serial CLock line (SCL) to interconnect the devices. Whereas most analog serial use unidirectional data lines, most commonly paired with Transmit (TX) and Receive (RX). It would not be USB since that uses a pair of bidirectional differential signaling lines; D+ (Data High) and D- (Data Low). However, if you think those labels are misleading then that's where a Bus Pirate or a JTAGulator comes in to play.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, I'm with you on that logic, so it wouldn't be our ADB port right? at least not usb... I can't begin to guess what it would be, seems like maybe analog serial, but I wouldn't know what to begin to think as far as what to do with it...
sciallo said:
Ok, I'm with you on that logic, so it wouldn't be our ADB port right? at least not usb... I can't begin to guess what it would be, seems like maybe analog serial, but I wouldn't know what to begin to think as far as what to do with it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, technically there's no such thing as an "ADB port" per se. Unless of course, you're referring to Apple Desktop Bus. In Android devices, it is really just a USB client port that has access to Android Debug Bridge daemon running on the device.
As far as what you would do with it, I did link the tutorial, "Reverse Engineering Serial Ports" to give you an idea.
finally got around to reading that... It sure could be something to try for kicks.
I remember doing that to rescusitate a friends router, though I had a file I could push through the serial connection once I got the Jtag connected... In this case I guess we can hope to be able to pull a backup of the bootloader or who knows what... Could be interesting to see what that gives access to.
Well, I don't know how much of my board is still working if at all but I'm willing to experiment with it as it's already as bad as I can immagine it would be short of getting a fire started ... Anyway, from what I understand about this type of serial communication, I couldn't hook it straight up to a computer's serial port right? would this type of adapter do the trick? http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e1140...tem=271342746958&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160
It sais RS232 on the title but it seems it will support a wide range of voltages. Getting a little confused on the subject...
Also, I see you circled the RST pad too... What role would that play in a serial connection?
sciallo said:
Also, I see you circled the RST pad too... What role would that play in a serial connection?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reset. Typically use as a reset button for the microprocessor. It is mainly used for development.
So I have an extended battery that I used for some time without issue. Out of the blue, I started getting "invalid battery" followed by the phone immediately shutting down. Is there anything that can be modified in the system to disable the genuine battery check? I found this thread ( http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...php?p=53155791 )that discusses a similar issue where it was solved by editing build.prop, but I cannot find anything in build.prop that seems relevant.
After looking through the kernel, I found some references to /sys/class/power_supply/battery_id/valid_batt_id in the bumped boot image. Not sure where to go from there. I am downloading some tools for unpacking .img files so that I can possibly modify the boot image if necessary. I also found some battery related drivers that reference valid_battery_id or something to that effect. The individual that released the kernel I'm using doesn't believe this is kernel related (I do believe it is, just not sure what to do) and I haven't got a reply from the dev of the ROM.
I'm running Fulmics 6.7 on my D850 LG G3 with Xceed 7n kernel.
Thanks in advance.
ChadChoosy said:
So I have an extended battery that I used for some time without issue. Out of the blue, I started getting "invalid battery" followed by the phone immediately shutting down. Is there anything that can be modified in the system to disable the genuine battery check? I found this thread ( http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...php?p=53155791 )that discusses a similar issue where it was solved by editing build.prop, but I cannot find anything in build.prop that seems relevant.
After looking through the kernel, I found some references to /sys/class/power_supply/battery_id/valid_batt_id in the bumped boot image. Not sure where to go from there. I am downloading some tools for unpacking .img files so that I can possibly modify the boot image if necessary. I also found some battery related drivers that reference valid_battery_id or something to that effect. The individual that released the kernel I'm using doesn't believe this is kernel related (I do believe it is, just not sure what to do) and I haven't got a reply from the dev of the ROM.
I'm running Fulmics 6.7 on my D850 LG G3 with Xceed 7n kernel.
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can get all that if you want but if the battery is an aftermarket battery and not produced by your device manufacturer then in the end it will most likely damage your hardware, mainly the CPU, then the device is dead anyway.
Use the properly power rated and approved battery and the properly power rated charger if you want to avoid damaging your hardware. Aftermarket batteries may last longer but they aren't always built to within specs for the device as the stock batteries are and usually end up causing issues.
Be smart and use the proper stuff if you want to avoid these kinds of issues.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Clearly I've decided to use the aftermarket battery despite any risks. Thanks for the advice, but I'm looking for an answer on how to use the battery I've already paid for. I want 2 batteries and I'm not looking to buy another just so I can have an official LG battery. I've already tested this battery with a multimeter so I think it's fairly safe to say it won't harm anything.
ChadChoosy said:
Clearly I've decided to use the aftermarket battery despite any risks. Thanks for the advice, but I'm looking for an answer on how to use the battery I've already paid for. I want 2 batteries and I'm not looking to buy another just so I can have an official LG battery. I've already tested this battery with a multimeter so I think it's fairly safe to say it won't harm anything.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go ahead and screw your device up then, its guaranteed to damage it. Its your choice to be stupid if you feel like you have to. Good luck with that. A new device will cost you more than what you wasted on the battery you bought though....
The evidence of what has happened clearly shows that it WILL damage your device, the damage has already started, that's why you're having issues.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Droidriven said:
Go ahead and screw your device up then, its guaranteed to damage it. Its your choice to be stupid if you feel like you have to. Good luck with that. A new device will cost you more than what you wasted on the battery you bought though....
The evidence of what has happened clearly shows that it WILL damage your device, the damage has already started, that's why you're having issues.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just because lg wants you to use official lg stuff doesn't mean it will damage the device. I used the battery for weeks before this happened. Did you miss the bit where I said I tested the battery with a multimeter? Quit wasting my time. You're obviously ignorant. Probably don't know what a multimeter is...
ChadChoosy said:
Just because lg wants you to use official lg stuff doesn't mean it will damage the device. I used the battery for weeks before this happened. Did you miss the bit where I said I tested the battery with a multimeter? Quit wasting my time. You're obviously ignorant. Probably don't know what a multimeter is...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's where you're wrong, I know what a multimeter is. Also, I never said anything about only being able to use LG produced stuff, I said that using stuff that does not meet all factory hardware/software controller specs causes issues at some point, as you are currently experiencing and finding out for yourself personally. As I said, regardless of your "opinion", the FACT is, when it comes to batteries, chargers and other hardware. there is more to it than JUST the voltage/amperage it delivers, there is software and hardware in the DEVICE that controls and communicates with the battery , similar to a Dell laptop and other electronic devices that use a charger that has specific hardware incorporated in it that communicates with the system it is plugged into, if a different charger is used it will eventually destroy the health of the battery. It is a PROVEN fact that using aftermarket batteries and chargers "over time" does indeed cause damage. Do some research and you'll see. I didn't miss the fact that you've used it for weeks but YOU did miss the fact that you now have issues, the issue is not with software, it's with the hardware itself, whether it be the battery or now the device hardware, otherwise, you wouldn't have the issue at all, and that's just all there is to it. You are obviously the ignorant one if you don't believe proven fact, what makes it so bad is you are "choosing" to be ignorant and you are the one wasting time with modifying software because in the end, all it will do is compromise the integrity of your device.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Droidriven said:
That's where you're wrong, I know what a multimeter is. Also, I never said anything about only being able to use LG produced stuff, I said that using stuff that does not meet all factory hardware/software controller specs causes issues at some point, as you are currently experiencing and finding out for yourself personally. As I said, regardless of your "opinion", the FACT is, when it comes to batteries, chargers and other hardware. there is more to it than JUST the voltage/amperage it delivers, there is software and hardware in the DEVICE that controls and communicates with the battery , similar to a Dell laptop and other electronic devices that use a charger that has specific hardware incorporated in it that communicates with the system it is plugged into, if a different charger is used it will eventually destroy the health of the battery. It is a PROVEN fact that using aftermarket batteries and chargers "over time" does indeed cause damage. Do some research and you'll see. I didn't miss the fact that you've used it for weeks but YOU did miss the fact that you now have issues, the issue is not with software, it's with the hardware itself, whether it be the battery or now the device hardware, otherwise, you wouldn't have the issue at all, and that's just all there is to it. You are obviously the ignorant one if you don't believe proven fact, what makes it so bad is you are "choosing" to be ignorant and you are the one wasting time with modifying software because in the end, all it will do is compromise the integrity of your device.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've actually had a look at the drivers for the battery and you are wrong. It is not as complex as you make it. The drivers have the device monitor the battery's temperature, amps, volts.... There is nothing fancy going on in the battery lol. It's just a lithium ion battery.
ChadChoosy said:
I've actually had a look at the drivers for the battery and you are wrong. It is not as complex as you make it. The drivers have the device monitor the battery's temperature, amps, volts.... There is nothing fancy going on in the battery lol. It's just a lithium ion battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Didn't say it was "fancy", and some of what monitors what I'm talking about isn't driver related, but its a moot point with you. The fact remains that you've got an issue that didn't "just start out of nowhere", it's because either your battery is faulty somehow or it's because the battery itself is causing a hardware issue. In either case, your battery is causing the problem, hence your issue in the first place. Enough said. I just wonder how much longer the device will last you if you don't at least replace the battery before it gets worse, factory spec or not.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Droidriven said:
Didn't say it was "fancy", and some of what monitors what I'm talking about isn't driver related, but its a moot point with you. The fact remains that you've got an issue that didn't "just start out of nowhere", it's because either your battery is faulty somehow or it's because the battery itself is causing a hardware issue. In either case, your battery is causing the problem, hence your issue in the first place. Enough said. I just wonder how much longer the device will last you if you don't at least replace the battery before it gets worse, factory spec or not.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wrong and wrong again. There is code in the kernel that is there specifically to check to see if the battery is an "official lg battery" just like there is specific code written into the firmware for the Xbox 360 DVD drive that verifies your games are official Microsoft games. There is a way around this. It's a matter of removing the validity check. This has nothing to do with the health of battery. I know you haven't delved into the code since this isn't even your device. Since you have nothing to contribute, why don't you move on...
Can't believe I'm arguing with someone who is either A.) still using a galaxy s3 or B.) Too lazy to update their signature...
ChadChoosy said:
Wrong and wrong again. There is code in the kernel that is there specifically to check to see if the battery is an "official lg battery" just like there is specific code written into the firmware for the Xbox 360 DVD drive that verifies your games are official Microsoft games. There is a way around this. It's a matter of removing the validity check. This has nothing to do with the health of battery. I know you haven't delved into the code since this isn't even your device. Since you have nothing to contribute, why don't you move on...
Can't believe I'm arguing with someone who is either A.) still using a galaxy s3 or B.) Too lazy to update their signature...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't be stupid, you are precocious to think you're "above" me or to think I'm ignorant, I hate to burst your bubble, I've been here a while at various levels, even among the staff, I didn't get there by being ignorant.
So, tell me "all mighty great android genius", why did it not do this the very first time you booted your device with that battery if it "just" the coding in the kernel, explain that.
I couldn't care less what the coding "says", my experience with many issues on a plethora of devices tells me otherwise because I've been there and done that, you're just pissing in the wind with that. I've used non factory batteries on several devices as well, without issue and without modifying anything, I might add. How, do you ask? Not by accident, by careful selection of what I used, not just something that fits and "claims" to be appropriate. Have fun, enjoy your journey.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Droidriven said:
Don't be stupid, you are precocious to think you're "above" me or to think I'm ignorant, I hate to burst your bubble, I've been here a while at various levels, even among the staff, I didn't get there by being ignorant.
So, tell me "all mighty great android genius", why did it not do this the very first time you booted your device with that battery if it "just" the coding in the kernel, explain that.
I couldn't care less what the coding "says", my experience with many issues on a plethora of devices tells me otherwise because I've been there and done that, you're just pissing in the wind with that. I've used non factory batteries on several devices as well, without issue and without modifying anything, I might add. How, do you ask? Not by accident, by careful selection of what I used, not just something that fits and "claims" to be appropriate. Have fun, enjoy your journey.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
TL;DR
You must live a sad pathetic life. Please keep commenting on this thread with your worthless opinions. My 2 year old gives better advice than you.
ChadChoosy said:
TL;DR
You must live a sad pathetic life. Please keep commenting on this thread with your worthless opinions. My 2 year old gives better advice than you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's FACT, not opinion, the only opinion in this thread, is yours. I didn't get to be RC by giving bad advice, I wasn't a member of the XDA Assist team by giving bad advice either and I didn't get over 2,000 thanks by giving bad advice either. The proof is in the pudding dude. Just keep your opinions to yourself, what I've said isn't bad advice, it just doesn't agree with what you WANT.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Droidriven said:
Don't be stupid, you are precocious to think you're "above" me or to think I'm ignorant, I hate to burst your bubble, I've been here a while at various levels, even among the staff, I didn't get there by being ignorant.
So, tell me "all mighty great android genius", why did it not do this the very first time you booted your device with that battery if it "just" the coding in the kernel, explain that.
I couldn't care less what the coding "says", my experience with many issues on a plethora of devices tells me otherwise because I've been there and done that, you're just pissing in the wind with that. I've used non factory batteries on several devices as well, without issue and without modifying anything, I might add. How, do you ask? Not by accident, by careful selection of what I used, not just something that fits and "claims" to be appropriate. Have fun, enjoy your journey.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While I haven't been as active on XDA as you, I have been a member for 5 years longer. Your experience on a "plethora" of devices is a drop in a bucket compared to my experience. At some point you need to learn that your input is not always wanted. I said in my first response to **** off since you had nothing to contribute. I have a specific goal and you have no intent on helping me reach that goal so move on and harass someone else. I don't give a **** if you think I'll damage my device. GUESS WHAT, it's MY device. So I'll exercise my prerogative to use it as I see fit and if that means destroying it, so be it. Since I have experience using aftermarket batteries in many devices(none of which were manufacturer branded), and since I have never once damaged a device doing so, I think I'll continue. In previous years, manufacturers did not add snippets of code that checked the validity of the battery, so this was always a non issue, however, times have changed and now I'm forced to find a solution. When I solve this problem, I'll be sure to PM you and let you know when my phone goes up in flames. I think it's safe to say you won't be receiving that message.
Droidriven said:
It's FACT, not opinion, the only opinion in this thread, is yours. I didn't get to be RC by giving bad advice, I wasn't a member of the XDA Assist team by giving bad advice either and I didn't get over 2,000 thanks by giving bad advice either. The proof is in the pudding dude. Just keep your opinions to yourself, what I've said isn't bad advice, it just doesn't agree with what you WANT.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
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Well you were right. Got my phone to work with the extended battery and within minutes it went up in flames... Just kidding. I've been using my extended battery for a week now. It works with ROMs that aren't based on my stock ROM and thanks to the help of the developer of Fulmics, I now have a solution to make it work with stock-based ROMs, also. Here's the short version: You were incorrect.
ChadChoosy said:
Well you were right. Got my phone to work with the extended battery and within minutes it went up in flames... Just kidding. I've been using my extended battery for a week now. It works with ROMs that aren't based on my stock ROM and thanks to the help of the developer of Fulmics, I now have a solution to make it work with stock-based ROMs, also. Here's the short version: You were incorrect.
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Click to collapse
Never said that you couldn't do it. I said it wasn't smart to do it and that over time you'll probably have issues or cause damage, which still stands by the way.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Droidriven said:
Never said that you couldn't do it. I said it wasn't smart to do it and that over time you'll probably have issues or cause damage, which still stands by the way.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
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You were adamant that the "invalid battery" error was being caused by a faulty battery. I said several times that it was because the battery was not an official LG battery, which was the case. The reality of the situation is this: I will have no issues with the battery because it is no different than any other battery. Suggesting that a battery is ersatz because it doesn't have a LG sticker on it is silly. I'm not sure why you think this. All these major manufacturers buy their batteries from Chinese suppliers anyway. They don't make their batteries in-house.
ChadChoosy said:
You were adamant that the "invalid battery" error was being caused by a faulty battery. I said several times that it was because the battery was not an official LG battery, which was the case. The reality of the situation is this: I will have no issues with the battery because it is no different than any other battery. Suggesting that a battery is ersatz because it doesn't have a LG sticker on it is silly. I'm not sure why you think this. All these major manufacturers buy their batteries from Chinese suppliers anyway. They don't make their batteries in-house.
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Click to collapse
You just don't get it, you are speaking as if using aftermarket batteries DOESN'T cause problems, which is FALSE. It is true that your battery MAY not cause a problem but that does NOT say that it absolutely WON'T cause a problem at all, which is what you are trying to say, which is AGAIN, FALSE.
And I NEVER said you HAD to use an OFFICIAL LG battery, I said aftermarket batteries "can" be used depending on the battery chosen and that depends on more than just a few factors, but it isn't RECOMMENDED and when I say "not recommended", I don't mean JUST by LG, I mean by anyone with any sense. My point was that the very REAL possibility is there so why take the risk? Aftermarket batteries have caused REAL problems more than a FEW times.
I also said that if it was JUST the valid battery check that was messing with you then why did it take WEEKS to show up instead of when you FIRST used your battery? It was that point that possibly suggests SOME form of degradation SOMEWHERE, SOMEHOW that may already be going on with your device. There is a reason why it is recommended to use the proper(proper doesn't mean only official) hardware and isn't JUST so the manufacturer can make money. There is also the fact that if it DOES at some point cause a problem then the damage won't be covered by any warranty on the device. Catching fire isn't the ONLY risk involved, it is only the worst case scenario, it would more commonly over extended time and usage cause CPU failure or any one a few other issues and never actually catch fire. But, so what? In those cases it won't catch fire but it will have caused those other issues which still equals the fact that the battery would be the cause.
What I'm talking about is VERY real, you just choose to ignore it. You're like a car owner that thinks since he knows something about cars then he doesn't have to use the right oil in his vehicle or doesn't have to use the right tire pressure or any other factor that is important for a vehicle. You probably argue with your doctor because you read stuff online that makes you think you understand medicine even though the doctor spent a lot if money and time learning about medicine.
I also said in the first sentence of my first reply to you in the effect of "you can do all of that if you want but using aftermarket batteries and chargers are known for causing issues".
You just wanted to argue like a kid that wants the last word because you want to use your precious aftermarket battery instead of truly being sensible. Its true it may never cause an issue, but can you look into the future and say at this point that it 100% will not? No, you CAN'T, period. But I can 100% say that you wouldn't be the first to screw up their device if it does.
Now, enjoy your battery. Hopefully you won't be wrong.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Droidriven said:
You just don't get it, you are speaking as if using aftermarket batteries DOESN'T cause problems, which is FALSE. It is true that your battery MAY not cause a problem but that does NOT say that it absolutely WON'T cause a problem at all, which is what you are trying to say, which is AGAIN, FALSE.
And I NEVER said you HAD to use an OFFICIAL LG battery, I said aftermarket batteries "can" be used depending on the battery chosen and that depends on more than just a few factors, but it isn't RECOMMENDED and when I say "not recommended", I don't mean JUST by LG, I mean by anyone with any sense. My point was that the very REAL possibility is there so why take the risk? Aftermarket batteries have caused REAL problems more than a FEW times.
I also said that if it was JUST the valid battery check that was messing with you then why did it take WEEKS to show up instead of when you FIRST used your battery? It was that point that possibly suggests SOME form of degradation SOMEWHERE, SOMEHOW that may already be going on with your device. There is a reason why it is recommended to use the proper(proper doesn't mean only official) hardware and isn't JUST so the manufacturer can make money. There is also the fact that if it DOES at some point cause a problem then the damage won't be covered by any warranty on the device. Catching fire isn't the ONLY risk involved, it is only the worst case scenario, it would more commonly over extended time and usage cause CPU failure or any one a few other issues and never actually catch fire. But, so what? In those cases it won't catch fire but it will have caused those other issues which still equals the fact that the battery would be the cause.
What I'm talking about is VERY real, you just choose to ignore it. You're like a car owner that thinks since he knows something about cars then he doesn't have to use the right oil in his vehicle or doesn't have to use the right tire pressure or any other factor that is important for a vehicle. You probably argue with your doctor because you read stuff online that makes you think you understand medicine even though the doctor spent a lot if money and time learning about medicine.
I also said in the first sentence of my first reply to you in the effect of "you can do all of that if you want but using aftermarket batteries and chargers are known for causing issues".
You just wanted to argue like a kid that wants the last word because you want to use your precious aftermarket battery instead of truly being sensible. Its true it may never cause an issue, but can you look into the future and say at this point that it 100% will not? No, you CAN'T, period. But I can 100% say that you wouldn't be the first to screw up their device if it does.
Now, enjoy your battery. Hopefully you won't be wrong.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
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I jokingly said TL;DR before but this seriously is TOO LONG. YOU WROTE ME A BOOK.... Do you seriously need to get the last word in an argument or what? Good God. I'm not even going to bother reading what you wrote, nor will i read any future replies. I created this thread to find a solution to my problem and I have. I didn't make this to argue with an imbecile.
ChadChoosy said:
I jokingly said TL;DR before but this seriously is TOO LONG. YOU WROTE ME A BOOK.... Do you seriously need to get the last word in an argument or what? Good God. I'm not even going to bother reading what you wrote, nor will i read any future replies. I created this thread to find a solution to my problem and I have. I didn't make this to argue with an imbecile.
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All I did was repeat everything I said and clarified for your dumb ass. How everything I said was technically sound and how you just wanted to dispute that fact because it was in fact "you" that just had to have the last word because somehow you think you're so much smarter than proven facts.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
This guy.... Mods close this thread. Seriously tired of getting notifications from this moron.