I'm curious if anyone has a made their own dock that uses the three small charging contacts on the bottom of the N1 instead of using the microUSB port.
So far, I have not seen any 3rd party dock that uses those contact pads. Or maybe someone has figured out a power and/or resistor combination that touches those contact pads and tricks the phone into thinking it's in the Google dock.
Does anyone at least know which two of the three contacts is for 5V and Ground? I don't really care about the one that allows the instant BT sync with the Google dock.
Hi there, I am interested in doing myself as well. I found this on the net, please let me know how you go. I am still waiting for my phone from Google.
tedSmith123 said:
Hi there, I am interested in doing myself as well. I found this on the net, please let me know how you go. I am still waiting for my phone from Google.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's pretty simple if this is the case. I'm a bit concerned about trying it. What's the worst that can happen? I've got a 5V source right here.
So I got out my multimeter and I can at least confirm that the ground labeled in the picture does lead to the ground for the battery. The +5V does not seem to connect though, but it may only connect while ground is connected first. I'm not an electrical engineer or anything close. I think I'll test it out this weekend. Get an old USB cable, cut the one end off, use some test lead and try it. I'll update my finding later.
I would suggest we keep watching this thread. They are already talking about similar docks.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=628094
Just tried it. The diagram above is correct. Phone responds to connection and says "Charging..."
Nice
St.Jimmy! said:
Just tried it. The diagram above is correct. Phone responds to connection and says "Charging..."
Nice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome, now I'll just have to hope that someone figures how to get the phone tricked into thinking it in the Google dock so that it goes into the clock automatically. I'm hoping it'll be something simple like a resistor, cause that would be easy to wire up. If not, then I'll have to go with my idea of cannibalizing an actual Google dock to make it work.
First let me say I am not trying to be a jerk....but...what would make anyone think that a resistor would be applied to one of the pins as a "signal"? This is 2010 not 1978...signals are digital not analog. I saw 3 pins and instantly knew: power, ground, digital data.
I am only saying this all as a warning to what seems like a growing group of people with no electronics knowledge that think it is a good idea to start jamming voltages through a resistor into a fairly expensive phone...granted it shouldnt hurt anything as long as it is 5v or less...but still.
So be careful and dont break your stuff :-/
Mike
mike105105 said:
First let me say I am not trying to be a jerk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fail, came across very jerk like to me
mike105105 said:
what would make anyone think that a resistor would be applied to one of the pins as a "signal"? This is 2010 not 1978...signals are digital not analog. I saw 3 pins and instantly knew: power, ground, digital data.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The ipod/iphone dock connector uses exactly that setup to determine what type of device it's hooked up to. I know it's a dedicated pin and used for nothing else, but that kind of setup is still used to this day. It's simple and it work (KISS=Keep it simple stupid). I'm sure it won't be that simple in the case of the N1, but I did say I hope it's something "like" a resistor, which implies something that is equally as simple.
mike105105 said:
I am only saying this all as a warning to what seems like a growing group of people with no electronics knowledge that think it is a good idea to start jamming voltages through a resistor into a fairly expensive phone...granted it shouldnt hurt anything as long as it is 5v or less...but still.
So be careful and dont break your stuff :-/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If there is someone willing to try something no one else has, then that's their prerogative. Sure the internet has all the info one could ever need to be able to figure out how things work with out ever having to try anything for themselves, but where is the fun in that. I for one learn better by doing than by reading. But I also know my limits. I will be the first person to admit that I don't 1/1000th of the stuff there is to know about electronics and IC's and electrical engineering, etc. I will research and research and research until my eyes can't focus and my brain can't process anymore info because I don't want to brick my nice new phone. I am however willing to try something if it seems relatively safe.
So your warnings are heeded, but please just try to show a little respect for those brave and enterprising individuals who are willing try something just to see how it works. We wouldn't even have the custom software and hardware ROM/MOD scene if it wasn't for those people.
Folx,
I dont recall where, but there is a thread out there, where some1 with a scope collected the waveforms from the 3rd pin. There appears to be some form of (simplified) digital communication that happens between the "official" dock and the N1. Not sure if it is unidirectional or what, but it is a short pulse train, at about 100 Hz or so. May be it's sole purpose it for N1 to recognize the presence of the dock and to initiate BT communication and launch the clock app. Dunno.
Well sorry if I came across like a jerk.
As far as what the ipod dock uses, that sounds backwards just like apple. Today the way to keep it simple is digital communication not analog because all you need is one pin off of a microcontroller with minimal support circuitry.
I am all for people trying to figure things out, I was just trying to point out the danger of doing things without having a more advanced electronics knowledge, I dont think anyone wants to damage a $540 phone and just thought to warn you.
garfnodie said:
Fail, came across very jerk like to me
The ipod/iphone dock connector uses exactly that setup to determine what type of device it's hooked up to. I know it's a dedicated pin and used for nothing else, but that kind of setup is still used to this day. It's simple and it work (KISS=Keep it simple stupid). I'm sure it won't be that simple in the case of the N1, but I did say I hope it's something "like" a resistor, which implies something that is equally as simple.
If there is someone willing to try something no one else has, then that's their prerogative. Sure the internet has all the info one could ever need to be able to figure out how things work with out ever having to try anything for themselves, but where is the fun in that. I for one learn better by doing than by reading. But I also know my limits. I will be the first person to admit that I don't 1/1000th of the stuff there is to know about electronics and IC's and electrical engineering, etc. I will research and research and research until my eyes can't focus and my brain can't process anymore info because I don't want to brick my nice new phone. I am however willing to try something if it seems relatively safe.
So your warnings are heeded, but please just try to show a little respect for those brave and enterprising individuals who are willing try something just to see how it works. We wouldn't even have the custom software and hardware ROM/MOD scene if it wasn't for those people.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
rashid11 said:
Folx,
I dont recall where, but there is a thread out there, where some1 with a scope collected the waveforms from the 3rd pin. There appears to be some form of (simplified) digital communication that happens between the "official" dock and the N1. Not sure if it is unidirectional or what, but it is a short pulse train, at about 100 Hz or so. May be it's sole purpose it for N1 to recognize the presence of the dock and to initiate BT communication and launch the clock app. Dunno.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just searched for 5 minutes and couldn't find it. Could you please try to remember where you saw it? Or any keyword that might pop up?
Dock+Signal did the trick
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=631508
mike105105 said:
Well sorry if I came across like a jerk.
As far as what the ipod dock uses, that sounds backwards just like apple. Today the way to keep it simple is digital communication not analog because all you need is one pin off of a microcontroller with minimal support circuitry.
I am all for people trying to figure things out, I was just trying to point out the danger of doing things without having a more advanced electronics knowledge, I dont think anyone wants to damage a $540 phone and just thought to warn you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would also like to point out that the 5th wire in mini and micro usb cables can be used with a resistor to indicated device presence.
http://pinouts.ru/Devices/mini-USB_pinout.shtml
I will agree though that apple likes to do things backwards. They have a habit of bucking the trends, or making new ones, and even changing old ones to suit their needs.
What about current? What should the current on the +5V input be? Can someone with an original dock measure it?
5v .5a for a slow charge, 5v 1a for a normal charge
(think ebay charger vs htc charger)
Related
So I've had a project for the last few months getting Android running as an infotainment system. Here is a demo i thought i'd share with you guys..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNcDq9S8n3I
Basic features:
Android 2.1 (looking to update to GB)
7inch touch-screen (800x480)
3G modem
GPS
Reverse camera (backup camera to see what's behind you)
USB port
would love to hear some criticism or anything regarding the device.. its not perfect, its got a few bugs and glitches.. but is sort of ready for everyday use but is missing a few components to make it 'official' android device (wifi, bluetooth etc).. but i'm just wondering if anyone is interested in something like this? Is this worth developing further on?
This thing runs on Cortex a8 omap3530 board and is based off 0xdroid build.
apologies if im in the wrong forum
Wow dude, thats really cool! I'd love one of these for my car. If you could get Honeycomb on that bad boy it'd be sweet! Just wondering, how do you plan on setting up a rear view camera? Just connect a camera at the back of the car to the tablet itself, then run the Camera app? Seems like the simplest way to me..
Haha cheers love to see the honeycomb source once its out then we'll talk although I'd imagine i'd need better hardware...
currently camera is interfaced by usb (has a usb hub) so i got a cable running under the carpet through the boot then camera is mounted on the bumper. yup camera is called by any camera calling intent.. so any app can use it.
I want to get some proximity sensors (like parking sensors) and write a proper reverse cam app to complement it. But we'll see...
Very cool!
I've been wanting to do this for a while, but I was going to use MeeGo or maybe Moblin since I don't have the programming skills (or Android knowledge for that matter) to build my own computer around Android. I dig what you got so far though.
My suggestion for the reverse camera is one of two things, because it would bug me to have to find and open the camera app every time I needed to back up.
Keep your touchscreen (what model are you using BTW?) and use a bluetooth or wi-fi relay (I know they make 'em, but they are $$$) to provide an input from +12V signal from your reverse light wire to automatically open the camera app, then close the app. Of course, you'd have to program for that.
Or
Have you considered this touch screen? Lilliput 7" touch screen with auto-reverse input. (Needs a RCA camera though)
http://store.mp3car.com/Lilliput_629GL_70NP_C_T_7_VGA_Touchscreen_w_Aut_p/MON-016-0002.htm
This is the one I plan on using since it switches automatically to the camera input whenever you are in reverse. Once you go back to any other gear, the OS input shows up again.
Just a thought to make life a little more convenient (although you already bought your parts so you may be stuck.)
chjade84 said:
Very cool!
I've been wanting to do this for a while, but I was going to use MeeGo or maybe Moblin since I don't have the programming skills (or Android knowledge for that matter) to build my own computer around Android. I dig what you got so far though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot! It needs a lot of time and dedication but it's a real good learning curve. I had to learn a lot of things on the way.. especially c/c++ I wasn't great at but had decent skills with higher level programming.
If you are planning to work with MeeGo its a little fussy with the hardware requirements.. Correct me if i'm wrong, but I think you need an Intel Atom processor. These are a little pricey if you're after an evaluation/hackable kit! But I'd imagine it'll be easier to program as it's a lot more closey coupled with linux.
chjade84 said:
My suggestion for the reverse camera is one of two things, because it would bug me to have to find and open the camera app every time I needed to back up.
Keep your touchscreen (what model are you using BTW?) and use a bluetooth or wi-fi relay (I know they make 'em, but they are $$$) to provide an input from +12V signal from your reverse light wire to automatically open the camera app, then close the app. Of course, you'd have to program for that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just had a look at those relays, sounds like its something I really need! Is this how the standard backup cameras work? That was something I was confused about.. I wasn't sure how to detect if i'm on reverse.. especially with the parts I already had. I'd imagine once you implement it you just need a service running in the background to listen for the relay.
The touchscreen is a TFT resistive 4wire touch-screen. It's not something I want to keep as I really want capacitive multi-touch.. But this fits perfectly with the board and was easier to deal with
chjade84 said:
Or
Have you considered this touch screen? Lilliput 7" touch screen with auto-reverse input. (Needs a RCA camera though)
http://store.mp3car.com/Lilliput_629GL_70NP_C_T_7_VGA_Touchscreen_w_Aut_p/MON-016-0002.htm
This is the one I plan on using since it switches automatically to the camera input whenever you are in reverse. Once you go back to any other gear, the OS input shows up again.
Just a thought to make life a little more convenient (although you already bought your parts so you may be stuck.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice find! I wish I saw that earlier .. Quite pricey but would make life so much easierrrrr!
Cheers for the feedback! Best of luck for your project!
tknz said:
I just had a look at those relays, sounds like its something I really need! Is this how the standard backup cameras work? That was something I was confused about.. I wasn't sure how to detect if i'm on reverse.. especially with the parts I already had. I'd imagine once you implement it you just need a service running in the background to listen for the relay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think most factory backup cameras use two inputs and switch between them. I don't have a lot of experience with them though.
chjade84 said:
I think most factory backup cameras use two inputs and switch between them. I don't have a lot of experience with them though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure what you mean exactly. I'll try the relays because it at-least gives me a standard interface to work with (bluetooth or wifi) so there isn't any work you have to deal with on the hardware abstraction.. Although it would probably be better designed if I had some sort of voltage input coming when the vehicle on reverse (the reverse light as mentioned). But I don't really have the electrical expertise to make it happen lol.
tknz said:
Not sure what you mean exactly. I'll try the relays because it at-least gives me a standard interface to work with (bluetooth or wifi) so there isn't any work you have to deal with on the hardware abstraction.. Although it would probably be better designed if I had some sort of voltage input coming when the vehicle on reverse (the reverse light as mentioned). But I don't really have the electrical expertise to make it happen lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well essentially what I was thinking was you'd have the bluetooth relay hooked up to your reverse light wire. This should allow your computer to monitor whether or not your car was in reverse. Relays are pretty simple - one input switches on/off another, usually one of a much higher or lower voltage. So in essence, it's a switch activated by voltage. (There used to be an electromagnet inside that physically moves a piece of metal to make a connection when a voltage is applied - now it's all transistors and whatnot.)
So, if you are in reverse and your reverse lights are getting power, the bluetooth relay should sense that and signal the computer (through a serial command it seems) which in turn could tell a background service to open the camera app. Once the voltage from the reverse light wire is lost, the relay should again tell the computer that you aren't in reverse anymore and the background service would close the camera app and re-open whatever app you were in.
*I should note this is all "in theory"... I don't know exactly how those wireless relays work/communicate and I don't know Android programming at all.
Thanks for the feedback. I was thinking what about using the GPIOs on the board and attach that to the reverse light? would that be possible? and using some resistors on the way to limit the voltages so i don't fry the board.. but we just need to detect some voltage input...
Not sure, will look into it. Right now, taking a pause on the development.. Got a lot of work to take care of but I can't wait to get back into it. I really want to port this to gingerbread.
tknz said:
Thanks for the feedback. I was thinking what about using the GPIOs on the board and attach that to the reverse light? would that be possible? and using some resistors on the way to limit the voltages so i don't fry the board.. but we just need to detect some voltage input...
Not sure, will look into it. Right now, taking a pause on the development.. Got a lot of work to take care of but I can't wait to get back into it. I really want to port this to gingerbread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could possibly do that, a real cheap voltage regulator would probably be better though. You could also use a cheap relay if the correct voltage is already somewhere on the car. Again, I'm not too sure how those bluetooth relays work, but it sounds like you are on the right track.
Great Job!
I was thinking of doing something similar myself.
I am looking at going with one of the tablets as it is just seems easier? I only really need internet, google maps(GPS) and wifi tethering. I would imagine you are running stereo sound from a 3.5mm? I would still have a seperate head unit to control volume and handle all the regular functions as well as inputs from a 3.5 to RCA cable.
How are you running sound off that setup? Are you running a head unit still?
The sound is running off a small amplifier. then RCA to 3.5mm.
Haven't had the chance to play around with the wifi tether as right now i don't have a wifi card.. It would make sense to have wifi tethering or just wifi reciever and use a phone to tether 3g to the system. Avoids having separate data plans.
Can we get a copy of your "AIVI Car Home" for our own DIY projects?
I don't mind releasing the source for it. Its just right now its a bit messy and quite a few things are hardcoded.
tknz said:
So I've had a project for the last few months getting Android running as an infotainment system. Here is a demo i thought i'd share with you guys..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice project. I gutted a Clarion Mind last year to do pretty much the same thing but am looking to upgrade. You said the software needs work but it's a real good start. Would you mind sharing your hardware list with us?
Nice work!
Something I was also interested in seeing is having vehicle manufacturer recommended service intervals and such available as reminders from your in car system or phone or both.
Stu_Gotti said:
Something I was also interested in seeing is having vehicle manufacturer recommended service intervals and such available as reminders from your in car system or phone or both.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could use 'aCar' which, if you are unfamiliar, you enter the make, model, mileage and all the pertinent service requirements. Battery every 3 years or 50,000 miles, coolant every year or 15,000 miles, oil every 6 months or 3,000 miles, etc. Then, every time you get gas you enter the current mileage as well as gallons/liters of fuel and the price. From that information you not only get your MPG but it will also trigger reminders to do the necessary maintenance at the correct intervals when they come up. You can do this for multiple cars as well. It's a very good program.
On a related note to this thread, I started my own 'carputer' project using an Archos 70 Internet Tablet and an unused articulating wall mount for TVs. It's still a work in progress as well since I don't have all the parts yet but will do everything I wanted (eventually... lol) except the rear facing camera. The video is obviously just of the media player.
I shot this late last night to show a friend. He wanted to know why someone would want a tablet/computer in their car, lol. Sorry about it being so dark.
Dude
I am keen as mustard on one of these beauties, I was considering running xp MCE but the android option would be much nicer..
Love ya work.
tknz said:
I don't mind releasing the source for it. Its just right now its a bit messy and quite a few things are hardcoded.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please do. Would love to play with it. No matter how clean the code is it's just gonna get better...
thanks for showing it..
UPDATE 5/26/2011: I have put together a tutorial and will keep it updated. It can be found at this link. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=14111386&postcount=207 The project is not fully completed but working! Keep following us as we progress through this thread.
Ok, I’ve been digging around recently and have been getting nowhere. From a bunch of emails and PM’s that took me a long time to write, I have gotten nothing back. So I am starting a new thread here.
I am in the process of finding info on the internal GPS module that the G-Pad is capable of having installed. I am willing to use my tablet as a demo to see if I can get it working! If it works, I will make a detailed thread on how to go about installing a GPS module into the G-Tablet. So speak up if you know your electronics please!!!
What I have compiled so far
A member from XDA forums literally bought a kit (eBay Post) that enabled GPS use. He posted that the chip that he installed was a RXM-GPS-SG-B found at this link (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&KeyWords=RXM-GPS-SG-B&x=0&y=0). After looking at the data sheet for this chip I’m pretty sure that this chip will work on the G-tablet board. All of the pins line up properly and everything. In the XDA post that I read, after the install of the chip he posted “I now have power to the chip and its working. When I click on the place app now it no longer just says wait but comes up with aps where to go.” This is a good sign in that it is already enabled in the VS bootloader kernel. Basically if you can get it soldered in and enabled it should work. The problem is that he claimed that pin 12 (vcc) did not have power and he had to power it from another source. He claimed that he tapped into the USB +5v power. That would have worked ok if the GPS chip needed 5v power. The chip itself needs 3.3v of power. This user was overvolting his GPS chip from the get-go. He had reported some issues with it and I think that this overvolting was part of the problem.
Here is a picture of the installed chip via the XDA forums. Sorry for the smallness it was as big as I could find. http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=585865&stc=1&d=1304460793
My theory is that you can tap into the 3.3v pin that is located on the mini PCI e headers and use this for power. This will provide the correct voltage. Here is a picture of the empty spots on the board. http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=585866&d=1304460792
As you can see in the picture above there is an “empty” power circuit located below where the GPS chip would reside. I read a post on XDA that claimed that if properly hooked up correctly it would probably produce the 3.3v output needed for the GPS chip also. The items that the user claimed could possible make it work were as follows.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=NCP51460SN33T1GOSCT-ND Part# NCP51460SN33T1G
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=NCP551SN33T1GOSCT-ND Part# NCP551SN33T1G
I do not have enough knowledge about IC’s to know how these are used. If anyone has an idea let me know. They go in the power circuit somehow.
The next part is the antenna connector. This would get installed in the empty “ANT2” connector. This should be an easy mount and is exactly how “ANT1” the wifi antenna is connected. http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=585863&d=1304460740
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=H9161CT-ND Part# U.FL-R-SMT(10)
Finally onto the antenna itself. Although I have read that a passive antenna can be hooked up to this chip, an active antenna seems like it would get much better reception. The antenna that I have read a lot about is the following.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/D...&lang=en&site=us&keywords=931-1014-ND&x=0&y=0 Part# ALA.01.07.0095A
This antenna would literally just snap onto the antenna 2 connector and it should work. Now to run an active antenna the GPS data sheet says that a 300ohm ferrite bead needs to be installed. This is the part where the member at XDA also messed up. He wired an antenna with a 300ohm resistor thinking it worked the same as a ferrite bead. A ferrite bead basically reduces any interference coming from the antenna going to the chip. Here is a link to the proper ferrite bead.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=445-6406-1-ND Part# MMZ1608D220C
The ferrite bead is also where I have run into problems. I do not know how to properly install one of these and I have no idea if there is even a spot on the board to do so. Any help in this area would also be appreciated. http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=585873&stc=1&d=1304461146
The antenna should be able to fit in the plastic up at the top of the case while also providing ample reception.
After all of this is installed hopefully the GPS chip will work. Although this sounds like a complicated project there is not actually that much soldering to do. The main GPS chip is actually most of the soldering. I am hoping that someone reads and appreciates that work that I have compiled/done so far. Any help on this project would be greatly appreciated. Also please do not post “why don’t you just use an external Bluetooth module.” I get that these work great, but I just want to see if the internal GPS will function. Attached below is everything I could possibly obtain after browsing through the entire internet looking for any type of documentation on this project Thanks for taking time to read through this post.
Last Thoughts
Here is a more in depth picture that shows the GPS connection and GPS schematic from the datasheet. It is very helpful. http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=585868&d=1304460792
I posted datasheets as attachments for the GPS Module and the Antenna I hope this helps out. http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=585875&stc=1&d=1304461367
Here is the entire system board for those who need a complete picture. http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=585867&d=1304460792
References
Thanks to the following people from XDA
mystkrh
6.055chevy
vsc
also to anyone I missed sorry
I will not be much help here, but I applaud your efforts.
I hope someone fills in the rest of the picture... I would love to do this to my G-Tab.
Great post Fosser2!
I too would like to have an internal GPS solution. I have a little electronics experience and I'm willing to go down this road as well.
For the ferrite bead, it looks like it gets soldered in at the L1 pad on the board.
All the other parts you listed look like they'll fit. The 3.3v chips you listed are just regulators. They "regulate" how much voltage goes through them. You feed them 5v (or whatever) and they spit out 3.3v.
What I'm wondering next is what about all the capacitors that are missing (all the C### labels on the board). Those regulators need some and the GPS chip itself looks like it needs some as well. I'll download the data-sheets and dig through those.
Hopefully others will chime in as well.
-John
twistedrotors said:
Great post Fosser2!
I too would like to have an internal GPS solution. I have a little electronics experience and I'm willing to go down this road as well.
For the ferrite bead, it looks like it gets soldered in at the L1 pad on the board.
All the other parts you listed look like they'll fit. The 3.3v chips you listed are just regulators. They "regulate" how much voltage goes through them. You feed them 5v (or whatever) and they spit out 3.3v.
What I'm wondering next is what about all the capacitors that are missing (all the C### labels on the board). Those regulators need some and the GPS chip itself looks like it needs some as well. I'll download the data-sheets and dig through those.
Hopefully others will chime in as well.
-John
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well honestly I'm not sure about all the C#### labels. I think when I order the parts (Thursday) I will only be ordering the GPS, Antenna, the ferrite bead and the antenna connector. I will be using that 3.3v from the mini PCI e header and pray it works. (hopefully bypassing the need for "regulators.") I'm just hoping that it will be detected software side. I guess time will tell But for all others keep posting on this topic because your expertise is greatly helpful.
Another alternative is looking into the Ericson 3307G which the Zpad, uses for GPS. (Gps version)
The 3307G has GPS and 3G, though it is a mPCIE card, so u need to put one of those on the board.
It may be easier though as you can modify the zpad roms for the gtab.
roguey said:
Another alternative is looking into the Ericson 3307G which the Zpad, uses for GPS. (Gps version)
The 3307G has GPS and 3G, though it is a mPCIE card, so u need to put one of those on the board.
It may be easier though as you can modify the zpad roms for the gtab.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For right now, I'm going to roll with the actual gps chip. I did put some though into installing the mPCIE slot but I'm hoping that the GPS is more just dropping in and hoping it works. The mPCIE slot seems like it would be tough to get working software side, but thats just my 2cents.
well apparently pershoot's kernel supports it (3g version anyway), its just the rom that needs the modifying.
Remember the Zpad and Gtab are basiclly the same thing, main thing missing from the Gtab is the pcie and Antenna.
Looks like a great project. I'll be following your progress.
I wanted to mention that the ferrite bead in your link is 22 olms not 300 you list in your post.
dhanifin said:
Looks like a great project. I'll be following your progress.
I wanted to mention that the ferrite bead in your link is 22 olms not 300 you list in your post.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good call on that one. Here is what the data sheet specifically says about the ferrite bead.
Code:
"A 300 ohm ferrite bead should be used to connect this line to the
RFIN line. This bead will prevent the RF from getting into the power supply, but
will allow the DC voltage onto the RF trace to feed into the antenna. A series
capacitor inside the module prevents this DC voltage from affecting the bias on
the module’s internal LNA.
Maintaining a 50 ohm path between the module and antenna is critical. Errors in
layout can significantly impact the module’s performance. Please review the
layout guidelines elsewhere in this guide carefully to become more familiar with
these considerations."
If you can do me a favor and try to find the proper ferrite bead to meet these specifications that would be great. I'll keep looking on my end.
The other reason that I had this ferrite bead was the user "vsc" recommended it in this post. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=12242377&postcount=54
Here is what he said:
Code:
2) The GPS receiver datasheet says for the ferrite bead, 300 ohms at 100 MHz. But every bead that meets that specification that I found also doesn't have good isolation at ~1.5 GHz (GPS band). As such I picked a different bead based upon my "good" judgement which will provide isolation between the antenna and LNA supply.
It looks like you are serious about this - but - are you PCB hardware and software engineer? After all the hardware prototype, you have to make the BIOS recognize and get the driver for this motherboard..etc...ouches - lots of work...
Unless you are into this to make the business on it - I would say "waste of time" (sorry - if offended to you). And I assum this could be your hobby to play around with electronic, pcb..etc...but if you are very good at EE/EEE and assembly language, Java - you are welcome to try on this
good luck!
fosser2 said:
The ferrite bead is also where I have run into problems. I do not know how to properly install one of these and I have no idea if there is even a spot on the board to do so. Any help in this area would also be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The ferrite bead would be soldered onto the PCB at L11 (upper left on the first picture). It goes between pin 17 of the chip and the antenna connector.
rcjpth said:
It looks like you are serious about this - but - are you PCB hardware and software engineer? After all the hardware prototype, you have to make the BIOS recognize and get the driver for this motherboard..etc...ouches - lots of work...
Unless you are into this to make the business on it - I would say "waste of time" (sorry - if offended to you). And I assum this could be your hobby to play around with electronic, pcb..etc...but if you are very good at EE/EEE and assembly language, Java - you are welcome to try on this
good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Currently I'm like 85% sure that the GPS support is built directly into the software. I have been directly talking to roebeet. He said that in his newest firmware "brilliant corners" that he deleted a script that checked to see if there was a gps chip installed and then enabled/disabled it accordingly.
Code:
With my Brilliant Corners update, I actually noticed a script that gets run and changes the library file, depending on the GPS installed.
So well I am still unsure about a number of things, I'm going to press my luck and continue with the project I will be ordering the parts tomm.
Here is a 300 Ohm ferrite bead that should work. It's the same package size as the original 22 Ohm one that was posted.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=445-2171-1-ND
-John
twistedrotors said:
Here is a 300 Ohm ferrite bead that should work. It's the same package size as the original 22 Ohm one that was posted.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=445-2171-1-ND
-John
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice job on that find. I'll most likely be using this one in the build.
fosser2 said:
Ok, I’ve been digging around recently and have been getting nowhere. From a bunch of emails and PM’s that took me a long time to write, I have gotten nothing back. So I am starting a new thread here.
I am in the process of finding info on the internal GPS module that the G-Pad is capable of having installed. I am willing to use my tablet as a demo to see if I can get it working! If it works, I will make a detailed thread on how to go about installing a GPS module into the G-Tablet. So speak up if you know your electronics please!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking at the pictures, you reference U39. This looks like a BGA IC which is going to be a real PIA to solder, if possible at all. Normally, BGAs are placed on the solder paste with +/- 1mil tolerance using a pick and place machine, then baked with all of the other SMT parts with the board. And even then you get fallout from the BGA shifting during reflow and needs to be x-rayed for voids and shorts. i can only cringe at the prospect of doing this by hand, but i've seen it done before.
In our case, the board is already populated and the only way to solder on the BGA would be find a heat source with a isolated stream (read no generic heat guns) and a crap load of kapton tape to insulate and hold the other SMT parts around U39 down.
Furthermore, the GPS module IC also comes in a QFN package which is also a PIA to solder. Granted, its not a BGA and has no pins directly under the IC but it will take a skilled technician with a industrial grade soldering iron with temperature control.
I'm in no way trying to shoot this idea down. It certainly is do-able but it is a true project with no guaranteed outcome (parts soldered down correctly = GPS will work). I certainly would entertain trying this out and this gives me the perfect excuse to pry open my 2 wk old gtab. i have all of the necessary tools available at my company to do this properly and if its a matter of simply soldering down these parts to see what happens, i can do this.
let me do a little more research on the GPS module. hopefully, the viewsonic design engineers used a reference design straight from linx so we can figure out at least the GPS module schematics so we can understand what needs to be soldered where etc (and find out what U39 is - it says its a uP for micro processor but in our case it might be a serial NMEA converter).
stay tuned. from a practical risk vs reward scenario this isn't worth the time/effort. thankfully, i enjoy doing stuff like this and its the process that i enjoy, the outcome is simply icing on the cake.
sorry for the long post.
dzasta said:
Looking at the pictures, you reference U39. This looks like a BGA IC which is going to be a real PIA to solder, if possible at all. Normally, BGAs are placed on the solder paste with +/- 1mil tolerance using a pick and place machine, then baked with all of the other SMT parts with the board. And even then you get fallout from the BGA shifting during reflow and needs to be x-rayed for voids and shorts. i can only cringe at the prospect of doing this by hand, but i've seen it done before.
In our case, the board is already populated and the only way to solder on the BGA would be find a heat source with a isolated stream (read no generic heat guns) and a crap load of kapton tape to insulate and hold the other SMT parts around U39 down.
Furthermore, the GPS module IC also comes in a QFN package which is also a PIA to solder. Granted, its not a BGA and has no pins directly under the IC but it will take a skilled technician with a industrial grade soldering iron with temperature control.
I'm in no way trying to shoot this idea down. It certainly is do-able but it is a true project with no guaranteed outcome (parts soldered down correctly = GPS will work). I certainly would entertain trying this out and this gives me the perfect excuse to pry open my 2 wk old gtab. i have all of the necessary tools available at my company to do this properly and if its a matter of simply soldering down these parts to see what happens, i can do this.
let me do a little more research on the GPS module. hopefully, the viewsonic design engineers used a reference design straight from linx so we can figure out at least the GPS module schematics so we can understand what needs to be soldered where etc (and find out what U39 is - it says its a uP for micro processor but in our case it might be a serial NMEA converter).
stay tuned. from a practical risk vs reward scenario this isn't worth the time/effort. thankfully, i enjoy doing stuff like this and its the process that i enjoy, the outcome is simply icing on the cake.
sorry for the long post.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dang, I guess I didn't think much about what the U39 part was. I sure hope that its not the NEMA serial converter. That would blow the whole project. Let me know if you find any schematics for this part. Either way, the project is still happening Let me know what else you find. Your help is appreciated.
fosser2 said:
Dang, I guess I didn't think much about what the U39 part was. I sure hope that its not the NEMA serial converter. That would blow the whole project. Either way, its still happening Let me know what else you find. Your help is appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure why U39 was referenced. Were the GPS serial port pins, TXA (pin 4) and RXA (pin 5), traced to that location? Or was the original author of that diagram guessing about U39?
The GPS module spits out NMEA sentences on TXA in a "serial" format. IMO, I don't know why there would be a need for any sort of hardware converter.
I am concerned about the software side though. By default the GPS module outputs NMEA commands at 9,600bps, 8 data bits, no parity, and 1 stop bit. If the micro isn't setup to accept the messages at that rate then we will have an issue. There is a command to change the serial port settings but I guess we can cross that bridge if we come to it.
-John
Edit: Here's a link to the GPS modules datasheet directly from the Linx website. http://www.linxtechnologies.com/resources/data-guides/rxm-gps-sg.pdf The link provided on Digikeys site doesn't seem to work.
Warranty voided!
So I cracked open my Gtab because I wanted to see if there was power on the voltage regulator pads of the GPS power section. And there is! U29 has 4.94vdc on it's input pin and U22 has 3.29vdc. What's interesting is that these voltages are present even when the tablet is powered off.
U22 is the power supply that is tied to the GPS's backup battery supply pin. For U22 to always have power makes sense, it's providing the power that the GPS needs in order to keep it's memory and RTC going. This allows for faster Time to First Fix, according to the datasheet.
But U29 provides the main VCC supply voltage to the module on pin 12. If it's always on, then the module will always be powered up. I wonder what that will do to battery life. The module is designed to operate automatically in different power saving modes so the difference in battery life may be negligible.
-John
Edit: Next, I want to figure out what capacitors are needed for the regulators.
twistedrotors said:
Warranty voided!
So I cracked open my Gtab because I wanted to see if there was power on the voltage regulator pads of the GPS power section. And there is! U29 has 4.94vdc on it's input pin and U22 has 3.29vdc. What's interesting is that these voltages are present even when the tablet is powered off.
U22 is the power supply that is tied to the GPS's backup battery supply pin. For U22 to always have power makes sense, it's providing the power that the GPS needs in order to keep it's memory and RTC going. This allows for faster Time to First Fix, according to the datasheet.
But U29 provides the main VCC supply voltage to the module on pin 12. If it's always on, then the module will always be powered up. I wonder what that will do to battery life. The module is designed to operate automatically in different power saving modes so the difference in battery life may be negligible.
-John
Edit: Next, I want to figure out what capacitors are needed for the regulators.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Holy crap! this is some serious progress. I was not expecting this right now I'm really happy that there is power right beneath the gps but the thing that I am concerned about I guess is, is it worthwhile to try to rebuild the power supply circuit, or just run 3.3v from the mini PCI e. I guess I'm down for rebuilding the circuit because its the way it was initially intended to work.
fosser2 said:
Currently I'm like 85% sure that the GPS support is built directly into the software. I have been directly talking to roebeet. He said that in his newest firmware "brilliant corners" that he deleted a script that checked to see if there was a gps chip installed and then enabled/disabled it accordingly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
According to the TnT v1.1 kernel patch file from Viewsonic, enabling and disabling the GPS module (the comment in the driver mentions it is for a "MALATA_SMBA1102") is all that the kernel driver does. No code to anything beyond that. Are there any data lines connected from the GPS and where do they go on the gTablet board. Is it connected to an internal SDIO bus?--You can get GPS data that way.
Hey guys,
I have an evo that has a weird glitch with the USB port.
It seems, anytime the weather is humid, my phone will sparatically start switching in and out of car-mode repeatedly. This has been causing my phone's cpu use to spike, screen to turn on randomly, and worst of all - when the phone is in car mode, I lose control of changing media volume with up-down switch, it forces dock volume.
From what I've found online, car mode is enable/disabled with the 4th pin going to ground in the USB port, which apparently my phone has been finding a way to bridge sporadically.
There are plenty of solutions that say 'delete the apk for the car mode app', but it'll still make me lose control of audio volume, and always be in speaker mode in calls.
Other than this problem, my phone works perfectly normal.
So, is there a way to prevent this pin from being picked up by the kernel or have android completely ignore this event or intent?
If I knew it was in the kernel source code (and where), I wouldn't mind learning how to cook a kernel myself to do it.
Thanks for any help.
MrStabby said:
Hey guys,
I have an evo that has a weird glitch with the USB port.
It seems, anytime the weather is humid, my phone will sparatically start switching in and out of car-mode repeatedly. This has been causing my phone's cpu use to spike, screen to turn on randomly, and worst of all - when the phone is in car mode, I lose control of changing media volume with up-down switch, it forces dock volume.
From what I've found online, car mode is enable/disabled with a 5th pin going high in the USB port, which apparently my phone has been finding a way to bridge sporadically.
There are plenty of solutions that say 'delete the apk for the car mode app', but it'll still make me lose control of audio volume, and always be in speaker mode in calls.
Other than this problem, my phone works perfectly normal.
So, is there a way to prevent this pin from being picked up by the kernel or have android completely ignore this event or intent?
If I knew it was in the kernel source code (and where), I wouldn't mind learning how to cook a kernel myself to do it.
Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this issue as well and have been trying to figure it out. Currently have something close for aosp roms, but going to take more time to figure out for sense. I have been looking into it.
Wow, I thought it was just me/my phone.
github said:
Wow, I thought it was just me/my phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nope we should start our own club. Busted ass usbport club. I looked into swaping the port out and soldering on a new one. But after I looked at this little tiny piece of hardware, I though a software edit will be easier. And it is you need some intense tools to pull off a good swap. its sooooo small.
lithid-cm said:
I have this issue as well and have been trying to figure it out. Currently have something close for aosp roms, but going to take more time to figure out for sense. I have been looking into it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I figured it's a common problem but it would be nice to find a good solution.
I haven't seen too much of a connection with particular roms causing the issue. When it was originally a big problem a few months back (before it stopped happening for me), it would act the same way on every rom I stuck on it.
However, I just switched from deck's aosp rom to Synergy not long before this started happening again, and the sense roms definitely make it much more of an apparent problem than the AOSP roms would.
Physically to stop the problem, I know it's related to the MicroUSB port and I may try disassembling it if it gets bad enough.
From another post on it: "It's pin 4, not 5 , 5 is ground in the usb cable, when pin 4 is grounded it puts the unit in dock mode."
I'd post a link to the pinout, but the system makes me too newb to post pin outs. (Just google kineteka microusb b)
The same thing happened to my phone yesterday and it is pissing me off. Will it eventually go away over time or is it a permanent issue. Meaning when it dries off will everything be ok. I'm thinking about taking it in since I have insurance and see if they will either fix it or swap it out. I'm going to wait a couple of days to make sure there is no moisture in there.
There is an app called NoDock that you can download to fix this. In my experience, it does not work with MikG (which is probably a Sense 2.1 compatibiltiy issue). I am running Deck now too, and so far no issue with the AOSP ROM. If there is an issue, I read on the NoDock market page that CM based ROMs have an option to disable, and thus NoDock is not needed in this case.
Hmm. I'd think an app could be written that would catch the intent and do nothing, as well as manually adjust car dock volume via the volume controls. Maybe. But I don't think any kernel-level edits are needed. Maybe a decent dev can write something like that for you (I couldn't). [Edit: looks like NoDock might be that app] Another thought that might be stupid: have you taken a can of compressed air to your USB port?
Also, just a friendly reminder, there isn't any development work posted here so instead of the development subforum, this really belongs in General, or maybe Q&A. As a general rule, new threads in this section are only for sharing work you've done. Not to pretend I'm a mod or anything, just wanted to warn you so you don't get flamed to death next time.
In sense roms might be able to check AndroidManifests for either
http://developer.android.com/reference/android/content/Intent.html#CATEGORY_CAR_DOCK
or
http://developer.android.com/reference/android/content/Intent.html#CATEGORY_CAR_MODE
Then remove the intent from the application, so that nothing would happen.
lithid-cm said:
In sense roms might be able to check AndroidManifests for either
http://developer.android.com/reference/android/content/Intent.html#CATEGORY_CAR_DOCK
or
http://developer.android.com/reference/android/content/Intent.html#CATEGORY_CAR_MODE
Then remove the intent from the application, so that nothing would happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was definitely looking into this within the android.policy.jar but my developer knowledge is minimal compared to your expertise. I'm really hoping to not have to download any apps and I'm reluctant to go get an insurance claim until the new OTA has been rooted successfully. Anybody makes any move forward on this I would be glad to donate. This started happening to me when I was working out with my phone in an armband and some sweat most likely got into the charger port causing a short (my theory on what happened). If it is still going on by the time the OTA gets rooted, I'm going to go swap it out at the Sprint store.
mjhuffer said:
I was definitely looking into this within the android.policy.jar but my developer knowledge is minimal compared to your expertise. I'm really hoping to not have to download any apps and I'm reluctant to go get an insurance claim until the new OTA has been rooted successfully. Anybody makes any move forward on this I would be glad to donate. This started happening to me when I was working out with my phone in an armband and some sweat most likely got into the charger port causing a short (my theory on what happened). If it is still going on by the time the OTA gets rooted, I'm going to go swap it out at the Sprint store.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am actually looking to buy a rooted one on ebay. Then use this one for deving. I really like the evo no reason to let it go yet.
lithid-cm said:
I am actually looking to buy a rooted one on ebay. Then use this one for deving. I really like the evo no reason to let it go yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought it was illegal to sell rooted phones period. Or is it only illegal to make extra profit just based on the fact that it is rooted. That isn't to say that someone will do it anyways. My brother, who is phone illiterate, just got a nexus s and I really like it. I heard that the GSM version will be the first phone to get ICS (ice cream sandwich) so that means the CDMA one will be next. I'm perfectly happy with my EVO except when dumb stuff like this happens. I hate myself for asking but you got any progress on the rooting of 4.24 and the newest Hboot. Has the source code for the new Hboot been released?
I had a similar problem however it was caused by me putting my phone in my car dock
I had to freeze/uninstall both car panel and dock mode for it to finally stop giving me a notification and blinking the screen on and off when I hit bumps
Soldering USB port
lithid-cm said:
nope we should start our own club. Busted ass usbport club. I looked into swaping the port out and soldering on a new one. But after I looked at this little tiny piece of hardware, I though a software edit will be easier. And it is you need some intense tools to pull off a good swap. its sooooo small.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Had the USB issue on mine too.
Usb port is anchored down to circuit board in 4 places, those solder joints get
loose and the trouble begins.
I used a regular soldering iron to heat up the solder and bring the port back against the circuit board tight, no more car-mode.
Ed
chile62 said:
Had the USB issue on mine too.
Usb port is anchored down to circuit board in 4 places, those solder joints get
loose and the trouble begins.
I used a regular soldering iron to heat up the solder and bring the port back against the circuit board tight, no more car-mode.
Ed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I appreciate the response and im looking into it myself but what exactly do those points have to do with the electronic conductivity of the port? Do they have something to do with the ground.
odd, i had this same problem, what fixed mine was flashing a new different nv, it stopped it almost immediately
MrStabby said:
Hey guys,
I have an evo that has a weird glitch with the USB port.
It seems, anytime the weather is humid, my phone will sparatically start switching in and out of car-mode repeatedly. This has been causing my phone's cpu use to spike, screen to turn on randomly, and worst of all - when the phone is in car mode, I lose control of changing media volume with up-down switch, it forces dock volume.
From what I've found online, car mode is enable/disabled with the 4th pin going to ground in the USB port, which apparently my phone has been finding a way to bridge sporadically.
There are plenty of solutions that say 'delete the apk for the car mode app', but it'll still make me lose control of audio volume, and always be in speaker mode in calls.
Other than this problem, my phone works perfectly normal.
So, is there a way to prevent this pin from being picked up by the kernel or have android completely ignore this event or intent?
If I knew it was in the kernel source code (and where), I wouldn't mind learning how to cook a kernel myself to do it.
Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
loose usb port
mjhuffer said:
I appreciate the response and im looking into it myself but what exactly do those points have to do with the electronic conductivity of the port? Do they have something to do with the ground.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 4 points only hold the usb plug on to the board, on the backside of the plug, is where the actual connections are being made. They are almost like spring loaded connections.
When the soldered points get weak, the usb gets pulled pulled away from the mother board and some of the pins will not make contact.
Ed
Here is a kernel for CM7 removing dock accessory detection based on the latest CM7 kernel. If someone wants to build a version for Sense or based on another kernel, just unselect config_usb_accessory_detect and config_dock_accessory_detect support under USB Support > USB Gadget Support > Dock Accessory Detect in the kernel config before building.
This is crazy mine an my girls phones are doing this we bought a charger off of eBay an that's when it started I tried titanium pro an froze car mode seems to work but just a bandaid
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA Premium App
sbradymobile said:
Here is a kernel for CM7 removing dock accessory detection based on the latest CM7 kernel. If someone wants to build a version for Sense or based on another kernel, just unselect dock support under USB Support > USB Gadget Support > Dock Accessory Detect in the kernel config before building.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks man I'm going to wait for some dev to jump on this. Hopefully someone can create a .zip so you can flash it over any kernel. I would really just like the stock kernel with this option added in.
So I was scanning eBay for Bluetooth docks, and came across this, " Bluetooth A2DP Music Audio Receiver Adapter for iPhone 4 4S iPod ". Search for it on eBay, without the quotation marks obviously.
Wow, really? I'm not allowed to post a clickable link to eBay??? How about the moderators just do their job and remove spam posts like the moderators on other forums I'm on do, rather than **** up new members ability to post helpful information. Because I'm damn sure not gonna run back out and get my post count up just so I can post a link.
Anyway............................
It's an adapter that sits in an iPod/iPhone dock, and receives audio via Bluetooth! It requires, obviously, a dock that is capable of charging the iPod/iPhone, as it uses that as it's power source. I have a Samsung HW-D7000 Blu-Ray receiver that came with an iPod/iPhone dock, and this will be put to great use now, rather than just sitting in the box in my attic! Hahaha. And at only freakin $16, it's a great deal! I'll come back and let you guys know how well it works as soon as I receive it, and get to test it out.
Also, this opens up out possibilities for buying docks for out phones too! I actually already have a Phillips Fidelio AS140 Android dock, and it is awesome! Has great sound via Bluetooth, and honestly, I prefer being able to play music through a dock without it being required to be sitting in the dock. As I know it's bad on the battery to continually be in a charging status, but also it's very nice to be able to carry the phone around the house in my pocket and control the volume and music being played, rather than awkwardly leaning down to use the phone on the dock.
Holy ****!!! This is absolutely the most aggravating forum to post to that I have ever been on as a new member!
Hahahahahahahahahahaha, oh my dear freakin' god. And I received an "Error" trying to post this also! Gotta wait 5 minutes before I'm allowed to post again. Maybe one day, xda with graciously allow me to offer up help without it being a pain in the ass to do so. I'm not an expert, but I do like to offer help and advice when I'm able to.
Sorry for the rants, I get angry when things don't work like I would like them to. Hahaha.
The restrictions, while aggravating, are there to prevent spam and malware links. Frustrating, but necessary unfortunately.
That's a great find, though. Provided it works (I see no reason it shouldn't) it opens up the previously very limited number of Android capable docks, and makes a Bluetooth solution very affordable.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727
liquidzoo said:
The restrictions, while aggravating, are there to prevent spam and malware links. Frustrating, but necessary unfortunately.
That's a great find, though. Provided it works (I see no reason it shouldn't) it opens up the previously very limited number of Android capable docks, and makes a Bluetooth solution very affordable.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, I understand why the restrictions would be put into place, but I also take responsibility for my own computer, and what finds its way onto it. Enough of that though.
I will most certainly be relaying how well this works, and any quirks it may have. I did find a Bluetooth receiver that can be used with any stereo with a 3.5mm audio input, and it has about a 3-4 hour battery life. The only issue with it so far, is that it can only be used on battery power. You can't just plug the charger up, and leave it. So basically, you use it until the battery dies, and you must charge it completely, then unplug the charger before you're able to use it again. It's still pretty impressively simple, functional, and easy to use tho.
I have 2 Galaxy Note 4 phones. Love em. They are both running the same configuration, Android 6.0.1. I have an MHL adapter that I have used on may devices for quite a while and it works great. However, it only works on one of my Note 4 phones. I am totally baffled. I spent a couple hours reviewing the settings on both phones to see if something was different. I even upgraded it to 6.0.1/Marshmellow and when that didn't work I did a factory reset. I have read every troubleshooting guide and nothing seems to work. I guess what I am looking for is someone who understand what I should be looking for....
Clearly its not the adapter since it does work on the one Note 4.
It seems to me this is likely a hardware problem because of the fact that I did a factory reset, but honestly I can't really say. I don't think the lcd digitizer would affect it, but just in case I pulled it and installed the one from the working phone. No joy.
Anyone know if there are hardware differences between Note 4s made at different times? I don't know what else to try but if anyone has an ideas please offer it as this has me stumped.
Thank you
May be a silly question but I ask it because I see you made no mention of it but have you checked and compared the charging ports between the two and is there any missing pieces or bent port pins, debris, pocket lint or anything else that would affect the connection to the phone?
ticholas said:
May be a silly question but I ask it because I see you made no mention of it but have you checked and compared the charging ports between the two and is there any missing pieces or bent port pins, debris, pocket lint or anything else that would affect the connection to the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think it is a silly question at all. For me, usually the problems I have the toughest time solving are often when I am looking for the complicated solution and forget the simple one starting at me. I just assumed the USB was ok because I can charge the phone and browse files. But obviously it has to be that. Really there is not much else it could be when I break it down. Now that I test it more closely the file transfer is not the best on this phone.
I guess I needed to hear that. Yeah so it seems quite obvious now. I just replaced the lcd digitizer so I may as well go ahead and replace the charging port while I have the phone apart since I can buy one for +/- $10.
Thank you for the input. This was an easy one after all. Well...let's hope. I will post again once I receive and install the part.
cbicker said:
I don't think it is a silly question at all. For me, usually the problems I have the toughest time solving are often when I am looking for the complicated solution and forget the simple one starting at me. I just assumed the USB was ok because I can charge the phone and browse files. But obviously it has to be that. Really there is not much else it could be when I break it down. Now that I test it more closely the file transfer is not the best on this phone.
I guess I needed to hear that. Yeah so it seems quite obvious now. I just replaced the lcd digitizer so I may as well go ahead and replace the charging port while I have the phone apart since I can buy one for +/- $10.
Thank you for the input. This was an easy one after all. Well...let's hope. I will post again once I receive and install the part.
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Update?