So I've had a project for the last few months getting Android running as an infotainment system. Here is a demo i thought i'd share with you guys..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNcDq9S8n3I
Basic features:
Android 2.1 (looking to update to GB)
7inch touch-screen (800x480)
3G modem
GPS
Reverse camera (backup camera to see what's behind you)
USB port
would love to hear some criticism or anything regarding the device.. its not perfect, its got a few bugs and glitches.. but is sort of ready for everyday use but is missing a few components to make it 'official' android device (wifi, bluetooth etc).. but i'm just wondering if anyone is interested in something like this? Is this worth developing further on?
This thing runs on Cortex a8 omap3530 board and is based off 0xdroid build.
apologies if im in the wrong forum
Wow dude, thats really cool! I'd love one of these for my car. If you could get Honeycomb on that bad boy it'd be sweet! Just wondering, how do you plan on setting up a rear view camera? Just connect a camera at the back of the car to the tablet itself, then run the Camera app? Seems like the simplest way to me..
Haha cheers love to see the honeycomb source once its out then we'll talk although I'd imagine i'd need better hardware...
currently camera is interfaced by usb (has a usb hub) so i got a cable running under the carpet through the boot then camera is mounted on the bumper. yup camera is called by any camera calling intent.. so any app can use it.
I want to get some proximity sensors (like parking sensors) and write a proper reverse cam app to complement it. But we'll see...
Very cool!
I've been wanting to do this for a while, but I was going to use MeeGo or maybe Moblin since I don't have the programming skills (or Android knowledge for that matter) to build my own computer around Android. I dig what you got so far though.
My suggestion for the reverse camera is one of two things, because it would bug me to have to find and open the camera app every time I needed to back up.
Keep your touchscreen (what model are you using BTW?) and use a bluetooth or wi-fi relay (I know they make 'em, but they are $$$) to provide an input from +12V signal from your reverse light wire to automatically open the camera app, then close the app. Of course, you'd have to program for that.
Or
Have you considered this touch screen? Lilliput 7" touch screen with auto-reverse input. (Needs a RCA camera though)
http://store.mp3car.com/Lilliput_629GL_70NP_C_T_7_VGA_Touchscreen_w_Aut_p/MON-016-0002.htm
This is the one I plan on using since it switches automatically to the camera input whenever you are in reverse. Once you go back to any other gear, the OS input shows up again.
Just a thought to make life a little more convenient (although you already bought your parts so you may be stuck.)
chjade84 said:
Very cool!
I've been wanting to do this for a while, but I was going to use MeeGo or maybe Moblin since I don't have the programming skills (or Android knowledge for that matter) to build my own computer around Android. I dig what you got so far though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot! It needs a lot of time and dedication but it's a real good learning curve. I had to learn a lot of things on the way.. especially c/c++ I wasn't great at but had decent skills with higher level programming.
If you are planning to work with MeeGo its a little fussy with the hardware requirements.. Correct me if i'm wrong, but I think you need an Intel Atom processor. These are a little pricey if you're after an evaluation/hackable kit! But I'd imagine it'll be easier to program as it's a lot more closey coupled with linux.
chjade84 said:
My suggestion for the reverse camera is one of two things, because it would bug me to have to find and open the camera app every time I needed to back up.
Keep your touchscreen (what model are you using BTW?) and use a bluetooth or wi-fi relay (I know they make 'em, but they are $$$) to provide an input from +12V signal from your reverse light wire to automatically open the camera app, then close the app. Of course, you'd have to program for that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just had a look at those relays, sounds like its something I really need! Is this how the standard backup cameras work? That was something I was confused about.. I wasn't sure how to detect if i'm on reverse.. especially with the parts I already had. I'd imagine once you implement it you just need a service running in the background to listen for the relay.
The touchscreen is a TFT resistive 4wire touch-screen. It's not something I want to keep as I really want capacitive multi-touch.. But this fits perfectly with the board and was easier to deal with
chjade84 said:
Or
Have you considered this touch screen? Lilliput 7" touch screen with auto-reverse input. (Needs a RCA camera though)
http://store.mp3car.com/Lilliput_629GL_70NP_C_T_7_VGA_Touchscreen_w_Aut_p/MON-016-0002.htm
This is the one I plan on using since it switches automatically to the camera input whenever you are in reverse. Once you go back to any other gear, the OS input shows up again.
Just a thought to make life a little more convenient (although you already bought your parts so you may be stuck.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice find! I wish I saw that earlier .. Quite pricey but would make life so much easierrrrr!
Cheers for the feedback! Best of luck for your project!
tknz said:
I just had a look at those relays, sounds like its something I really need! Is this how the standard backup cameras work? That was something I was confused about.. I wasn't sure how to detect if i'm on reverse.. especially with the parts I already had. I'd imagine once you implement it you just need a service running in the background to listen for the relay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think most factory backup cameras use two inputs and switch between them. I don't have a lot of experience with them though.
chjade84 said:
I think most factory backup cameras use two inputs and switch between them. I don't have a lot of experience with them though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure what you mean exactly. I'll try the relays because it at-least gives me a standard interface to work with (bluetooth or wifi) so there isn't any work you have to deal with on the hardware abstraction.. Although it would probably be better designed if I had some sort of voltage input coming when the vehicle on reverse (the reverse light as mentioned). But I don't really have the electrical expertise to make it happen lol.
tknz said:
Not sure what you mean exactly. I'll try the relays because it at-least gives me a standard interface to work with (bluetooth or wifi) so there isn't any work you have to deal with on the hardware abstraction.. Although it would probably be better designed if I had some sort of voltage input coming when the vehicle on reverse (the reverse light as mentioned). But I don't really have the electrical expertise to make it happen lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well essentially what I was thinking was you'd have the bluetooth relay hooked up to your reverse light wire. This should allow your computer to monitor whether or not your car was in reverse. Relays are pretty simple - one input switches on/off another, usually one of a much higher or lower voltage. So in essence, it's a switch activated by voltage. (There used to be an electromagnet inside that physically moves a piece of metal to make a connection when a voltage is applied - now it's all transistors and whatnot.)
So, if you are in reverse and your reverse lights are getting power, the bluetooth relay should sense that and signal the computer (through a serial command it seems) which in turn could tell a background service to open the camera app. Once the voltage from the reverse light wire is lost, the relay should again tell the computer that you aren't in reverse anymore and the background service would close the camera app and re-open whatever app you were in.
*I should note this is all "in theory"... I don't know exactly how those wireless relays work/communicate and I don't know Android programming at all.
Thanks for the feedback. I was thinking what about using the GPIOs on the board and attach that to the reverse light? would that be possible? and using some resistors on the way to limit the voltages so i don't fry the board.. but we just need to detect some voltage input...
Not sure, will look into it. Right now, taking a pause on the development.. Got a lot of work to take care of but I can't wait to get back into it. I really want to port this to gingerbread.
tknz said:
Thanks for the feedback. I was thinking what about using the GPIOs on the board and attach that to the reverse light? would that be possible? and using some resistors on the way to limit the voltages so i don't fry the board.. but we just need to detect some voltage input...
Not sure, will look into it. Right now, taking a pause on the development.. Got a lot of work to take care of but I can't wait to get back into it. I really want to port this to gingerbread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could possibly do that, a real cheap voltage regulator would probably be better though. You could also use a cheap relay if the correct voltage is already somewhere on the car. Again, I'm not too sure how those bluetooth relays work, but it sounds like you are on the right track.
Great Job!
I was thinking of doing something similar myself.
I am looking at going with one of the tablets as it is just seems easier? I only really need internet, google maps(GPS) and wifi tethering. I would imagine you are running stereo sound from a 3.5mm? I would still have a seperate head unit to control volume and handle all the regular functions as well as inputs from a 3.5 to RCA cable.
How are you running sound off that setup? Are you running a head unit still?
The sound is running off a small amplifier. then RCA to 3.5mm.
Haven't had the chance to play around with the wifi tether as right now i don't have a wifi card.. It would make sense to have wifi tethering or just wifi reciever and use a phone to tether 3g to the system. Avoids having separate data plans.
Can we get a copy of your "AIVI Car Home" for our own DIY projects?
I don't mind releasing the source for it. Its just right now its a bit messy and quite a few things are hardcoded.
tknz said:
So I've had a project for the last few months getting Android running as an infotainment system. Here is a demo i thought i'd share with you guys..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice project. I gutted a Clarion Mind last year to do pretty much the same thing but am looking to upgrade. You said the software needs work but it's a real good start. Would you mind sharing your hardware list with us?
Nice work!
Something I was also interested in seeing is having vehicle manufacturer recommended service intervals and such available as reminders from your in car system or phone or both.
Stu_Gotti said:
Something I was also interested in seeing is having vehicle manufacturer recommended service intervals and such available as reminders from your in car system or phone or both.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could use 'aCar' which, if you are unfamiliar, you enter the make, model, mileage and all the pertinent service requirements. Battery every 3 years or 50,000 miles, coolant every year or 15,000 miles, oil every 6 months or 3,000 miles, etc. Then, every time you get gas you enter the current mileage as well as gallons/liters of fuel and the price. From that information you not only get your MPG but it will also trigger reminders to do the necessary maintenance at the correct intervals when they come up. You can do this for multiple cars as well. It's a very good program.
On a related note to this thread, I started my own 'carputer' project using an Archos 70 Internet Tablet and an unused articulating wall mount for TVs. It's still a work in progress as well since I don't have all the parts yet but will do everything I wanted (eventually... lol) except the rear facing camera. The video is obviously just of the media player.
I shot this late last night to show a friend. He wanted to know why someone would want a tablet/computer in their car, lol. Sorry about it being so dark.
Dude
I am keen as mustard on one of these beauties, I was considering running xp MCE but the android option would be much nicer..
Love ya work.
tknz said:
I don't mind releasing the source for it. Its just right now its a bit messy and quite a few things are hardcoded.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please do. Would love to play with it. No matter how clean the code is it's just gonna get better...
thanks for showing it..
Related
I'm curious if anyone has a made their own dock that uses the three small charging contacts on the bottom of the N1 instead of using the microUSB port.
So far, I have not seen any 3rd party dock that uses those contact pads. Or maybe someone has figured out a power and/or resistor combination that touches those contact pads and tricks the phone into thinking it's in the Google dock.
Does anyone at least know which two of the three contacts is for 5V and Ground? I don't really care about the one that allows the instant BT sync with the Google dock.
Hi there, I am interested in doing myself as well. I found this on the net, please let me know how you go. I am still waiting for my phone from Google.
tedSmith123 said:
Hi there, I am interested in doing myself as well. I found this on the net, please let me know how you go. I am still waiting for my phone from Google.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's pretty simple if this is the case. I'm a bit concerned about trying it. What's the worst that can happen? I've got a 5V source right here.
So I got out my multimeter and I can at least confirm that the ground labeled in the picture does lead to the ground for the battery. The +5V does not seem to connect though, but it may only connect while ground is connected first. I'm not an electrical engineer or anything close. I think I'll test it out this weekend. Get an old USB cable, cut the one end off, use some test lead and try it. I'll update my finding later.
I would suggest we keep watching this thread. They are already talking about similar docks.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=628094
Just tried it. The diagram above is correct. Phone responds to connection and says "Charging..."
Nice
St.Jimmy! said:
Just tried it. The diagram above is correct. Phone responds to connection and says "Charging..."
Nice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome, now I'll just have to hope that someone figures how to get the phone tricked into thinking it in the Google dock so that it goes into the clock automatically. I'm hoping it'll be something simple like a resistor, cause that would be easy to wire up. If not, then I'll have to go with my idea of cannibalizing an actual Google dock to make it work.
First let me say I am not trying to be a jerk....but...what would make anyone think that a resistor would be applied to one of the pins as a "signal"? This is 2010 not 1978...signals are digital not analog. I saw 3 pins and instantly knew: power, ground, digital data.
I am only saying this all as a warning to what seems like a growing group of people with no electronics knowledge that think it is a good idea to start jamming voltages through a resistor into a fairly expensive phone...granted it shouldnt hurt anything as long as it is 5v or less...but still.
So be careful and dont break your stuff :-/
Mike
mike105105 said:
First let me say I am not trying to be a jerk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fail, came across very jerk like to me
mike105105 said:
what would make anyone think that a resistor would be applied to one of the pins as a "signal"? This is 2010 not 1978...signals are digital not analog. I saw 3 pins and instantly knew: power, ground, digital data.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The ipod/iphone dock connector uses exactly that setup to determine what type of device it's hooked up to. I know it's a dedicated pin and used for nothing else, but that kind of setup is still used to this day. It's simple and it work (KISS=Keep it simple stupid). I'm sure it won't be that simple in the case of the N1, but I did say I hope it's something "like" a resistor, which implies something that is equally as simple.
mike105105 said:
I am only saying this all as a warning to what seems like a growing group of people with no electronics knowledge that think it is a good idea to start jamming voltages through a resistor into a fairly expensive phone...granted it shouldnt hurt anything as long as it is 5v or less...but still.
So be careful and dont break your stuff :-/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If there is someone willing to try something no one else has, then that's their prerogative. Sure the internet has all the info one could ever need to be able to figure out how things work with out ever having to try anything for themselves, but where is the fun in that. I for one learn better by doing than by reading. But I also know my limits. I will be the first person to admit that I don't 1/1000th of the stuff there is to know about electronics and IC's and electrical engineering, etc. I will research and research and research until my eyes can't focus and my brain can't process anymore info because I don't want to brick my nice new phone. I am however willing to try something if it seems relatively safe.
So your warnings are heeded, but please just try to show a little respect for those brave and enterprising individuals who are willing try something just to see how it works. We wouldn't even have the custom software and hardware ROM/MOD scene if it wasn't for those people.
Folx,
I dont recall where, but there is a thread out there, where some1 with a scope collected the waveforms from the 3rd pin. There appears to be some form of (simplified) digital communication that happens between the "official" dock and the N1. Not sure if it is unidirectional or what, but it is a short pulse train, at about 100 Hz or so. May be it's sole purpose it for N1 to recognize the presence of the dock and to initiate BT communication and launch the clock app. Dunno.
Well sorry if I came across like a jerk.
As far as what the ipod dock uses, that sounds backwards just like apple. Today the way to keep it simple is digital communication not analog because all you need is one pin off of a microcontroller with minimal support circuitry.
I am all for people trying to figure things out, I was just trying to point out the danger of doing things without having a more advanced electronics knowledge, I dont think anyone wants to damage a $540 phone and just thought to warn you.
garfnodie said:
Fail, came across very jerk like to me
The ipod/iphone dock connector uses exactly that setup to determine what type of device it's hooked up to. I know it's a dedicated pin and used for nothing else, but that kind of setup is still used to this day. It's simple and it work (KISS=Keep it simple stupid). I'm sure it won't be that simple in the case of the N1, but I did say I hope it's something "like" a resistor, which implies something that is equally as simple.
If there is someone willing to try something no one else has, then that's their prerogative. Sure the internet has all the info one could ever need to be able to figure out how things work with out ever having to try anything for themselves, but where is the fun in that. I for one learn better by doing than by reading. But I also know my limits. I will be the first person to admit that I don't 1/1000th of the stuff there is to know about electronics and IC's and electrical engineering, etc. I will research and research and research until my eyes can't focus and my brain can't process anymore info because I don't want to brick my nice new phone. I am however willing to try something if it seems relatively safe.
So your warnings are heeded, but please just try to show a little respect for those brave and enterprising individuals who are willing try something just to see how it works. We wouldn't even have the custom software and hardware ROM/MOD scene if it wasn't for those people.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
rashid11 said:
Folx,
I dont recall where, but there is a thread out there, where some1 with a scope collected the waveforms from the 3rd pin. There appears to be some form of (simplified) digital communication that happens between the "official" dock and the N1. Not sure if it is unidirectional or what, but it is a short pulse train, at about 100 Hz or so. May be it's sole purpose it for N1 to recognize the presence of the dock and to initiate BT communication and launch the clock app. Dunno.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just searched for 5 minutes and couldn't find it. Could you please try to remember where you saw it? Or any keyword that might pop up?
Dock+Signal did the trick
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=631508
mike105105 said:
Well sorry if I came across like a jerk.
As far as what the ipod dock uses, that sounds backwards just like apple. Today the way to keep it simple is digital communication not analog because all you need is one pin off of a microcontroller with minimal support circuitry.
I am all for people trying to figure things out, I was just trying to point out the danger of doing things without having a more advanced electronics knowledge, I dont think anyone wants to damage a $540 phone and just thought to warn you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would also like to point out that the 5th wire in mini and micro usb cables can be used with a resistor to indicated device presence.
http://pinouts.ru/Devices/mini-USB_pinout.shtml
I will agree though that apple likes to do things backwards. They have a habit of bucking the trends, or making new ones, and even changing old ones to suit their needs.
What about current? What should the current on the +5V input be? Can someone with an original dock measure it?
5v .5a for a slow charge, 5v 1a for a normal charge
(think ebay charger vs htc charger)
So I am a gearhead/computer nerd... I have a 1999 Trans Am and I do all my tuning on a laptop using EfiLive... Could anyone that is handy with creating applications look at the software and tell me what it would take to port it over to an Android app?
I am pretty sure my Evo has enough CPU/RAM to run the software easily and I think it would be pretty pimp to data log/change tunes from my cell phone instead of having to break out a huge ass laptop..
efilive isn't open source as far as I know, which means nobody but the original developers are going to be porting it....you're asking the wrong people
Koncrete said:
So I am a gearhead/computer nerd... I have a 1999 Trans Am and I do all my tuning on a laptop using EfiLive... Could anyone that is handy with creating applications look at the software and tell me what it would take to port it over to an Android app?
I am pretty sure my Evo has enough CPU/RAM to run the software easily and I think it would be pretty pimp to data log/change tunes from my cell phone instead of having to break out a huge ass laptop..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have an 89 Trans Am GTA, however I was wondering if there was any software for live data streaming for OBD I?
There is torque in the market but it is basically like a scan gauge, not a tuner.
Dynomaster acts like a g-tech. There is an OBD-II scanner but it requires that you get an OBD-II to micro usb adapter, which I'm sure they'll sell you for a pretty penny. As far as programming, the sport compact guys use their laptops, whoever makes those programs for them might help. I've looked but have found anything, I'll just stick to my predator for now.
Hey guys,
I have an evo that has a weird glitch with the USB port.
It seems, anytime the weather is humid, my phone will sparatically start switching in and out of car-mode repeatedly. This has been causing my phone's cpu use to spike, screen to turn on randomly, and worst of all - when the phone is in car mode, I lose control of changing media volume with up-down switch, it forces dock volume.
From what I've found online, car mode is enable/disabled with the 4th pin going to ground in the USB port, which apparently my phone has been finding a way to bridge sporadically.
There are plenty of solutions that say 'delete the apk for the car mode app', but it'll still make me lose control of audio volume, and always be in speaker mode in calls.
Other than this problem, my phone works perfectly normal.
So, is there a way to prevent this pin from being picked up by the kernel or have android completely ignore this event or intent?
If I knew it was in the kernel source code (and where), I wouldn't mind learning how to cook a kernel myself to do it.
Thanks for any help.
MrStabby said:
Hey guys,
I have an evo that has a weird glitch with the USB port.
It seems, anytime the weather is humid, my phone will sparatically start switching in and out of car-mode repeatedly. This has been causing my phone's cpu use to spike, screen to turn on randomly, and worst of all - when the phone is in car mode, I lose control of changing media volume with up-down switch, it forces dock volume.
From what I've found online, car mode is enable/disabled with a 5th pin going high in the USB port, which apparently my phone has been finding a way to bridge sporadically.
There are plenty of solutions that say 'delete the apk for the car mode app', but it'll still make me lose control of audio volume, and always be in speaker mode in calls.
Other than this problem, my phone works perfectly normal.
So, is there a way to prevent this pin from being picked up by the kernel or have android completely ignore this event or intent?
If I knew it was in the kernel source code (and where), I wouldn't mind learning how to cook a kernel myself to do it.
Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this issue as well and have been trying to figure it out. Currently have something close for aosp roms, but going to take more time to figure out for sense. I have been looking into it.
Wow, I thought it was just me/my phone.
github said:
Wow, I thought it was just me/my phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nope we should start our own club. Busted ass usbport club. I looked into swaping the port out and soldering on a new one. But after I looked at this little tiny piece of hardware, I though a software edit will be easier. And it is you need some intense tools to pull off a good swap. its sooooo small.
lithid-cm said:
I have this issue as well and have been trying to figure it out. Currently have something close for aosp roms, but going to take more time to figure out for sense. I have been looking into it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I figured it's a common problem but it would be nice to find a good solution.
I haven't seen too much of a connection with particular roms causing the issue. When it was originally a big problem a few months back (before it stopped happening for me), it would act the same way on every rom I stuck on it.
However, I just switched from deck's aosp rom to Synergy not long before this started happening again, and the sense roms definitely make it much more of an apparent problem than the AOSP roms would.
Physically to stop the problem, I know it's related to the MicroUSB port and I may try disassembling it if it gets bad enough.
From another post on it: "It's pin 4, not 5 , 5 is ground in the usb cable, when pin 4 is grounded it puts the unit in dock mode."
I'd post a link to the pinout, but the system makes me too newb to post pin outs. (Just google kineteka microusb b)
The same thing happened to my phone yesterday and it is pissing me off. Will it eventually go away over time or is it a permanent issue. Meaning when it dries off will everything be ok. I'm thinking about taking it in since I have insurance and see if they will either fix it or swap it out. I'm going to wait a couple of days to make sure there is no moisture in there.
There is an app called NoDock that you can download to fix this. In my experience, it does not work with MikG (which is probably a Sense 2.1 compatibiltiy issue). I am running Deck now too, and so far no issue with the AOSP ROM. If there is an issue, I read on the NoDock market page that CM based ROMs have an option to disable, and thus NoDock is not needed in this case.
Hmm. I'd think an app could be written that would catch the intent and do nothing, as well as manually adjust car dock volume via the volume controls. Maybe. But I don't think any kernel-level edits are needed. Maybe a decent dev can write something like that for you (I couldn't). [Edit: looks like NoDock might be that app] Another thought that might be stupid: have you taken a can of compressed air to your USB port?
Also, just a friendly reminder, there isn't any development work posted here so instead of the development subforum, this really belongs in General, or maybe Q&A. As a general rule, new threads in this section are only for sharing work you've done. Not to pretend I'm a mod or anything, just wanted to warn you so you don't get flamed to death next time.
In sense roms might be able to check AndroidManifests for either
http://developer.android.com/reference/android/content/Intent.html#CATEGORY_CAR_DOCK
or
http://developer.android.com/reference/android/content/Intent.html#CATEGORY_CAR_MODE
Then remove the intent from the application, so that nothing would happen.
lithid-cm said:
In sense roms might be able to check AndroidManifests for either
http://developer.android.com/reference/android/content/Intent.html#CATEGORY_CAR_DOCK
or
http://developer.android.com/reference/android/content/Intent.html#CATEGORY_CAR_MODE
Then remove the intent from the application, so that nothing would happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was definitely looking into this within the android.policy.jar but my developer knowledge is minimal compared to your expertise. I'm really hoping to not have to download any apps and I'm reluctant to go get an insurance claim until the new OTA has been rooted successfully. Anybody makes any move forward on this I would be glad to donate. This started happening to me when I was working out with my phone in an armband and some sweat most likely got into the charger port causing a short (my theory on what happened). If it is still going on by the time the OTA gets rooted, I'm going to go swap it out at the Sprint store.
mjhuffer said:
I was definitely looking into this within the android.policy.jar but my developer knowledge is minimal compared to your expertise. I'm really hoping to not have to download any apps and I'm reluctant to go get an insurance claim until the new OTA has been rooted successfully. Anybody makes any move forward on this I would be glad to donate. This started happening to me when I was working out with my phone in an armband and some sweat most likely got into the charger port causing a short (my theory on what happened). If it is still going on by the time the OTA gets rooted, I'm going to go swap it out at the Sprint store.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am actually looking to buy a rooted one on ebay. Then use this one for deving. I really like the evo no reason to let it go yet.
lithid-cm said:
I am actually looking to buy a rooted one on ebay. Then use this one for deving. I really like the evo no reason to let it go yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought it was illegal to sell rooted phones period. Or is it only illegal to make extra profit just based on the fact that it is rooted. That isn't to say that someone will do it anyways. My brother, who is phone illiterate, just got a nexus s and I really like it. I heard that the GSM version will be the first phone to get ICS (ice cream sandwich) so that means the CDMA one will be next. I'm perfectly happy with my EVO except when dumb stuff like this happens. I hate myself for asking but you got any progress on the rooting of 4.24 and the newest Hboot. Has the source code for the new Hboot been released?
I had a similar problem however it was caused by me putting my phone in my car dock
I had to freeze/uninstall both car panel and dock mode for it to finally stop giving me a notification and blinking the screen on and off when I hit bumps
Soldering USB port
lithid-cm said:
nope we should start our own club. Busted ass usbport club. I looked into swaping the port out and soldering on a new one. But after I looked at this little tiny piece of hardware, I though a software edit will be easier. And it is you need some intense tools to pull off a good swap. its sooooo small.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Had the USB issue on mine too.
Usb port is anchored down to circuit board in 4 places, those solder joints get
loose and the trouble begins.
I used a regular soldering iron to heat up the solder and bring the port back against the circuit board tight, no more car-mode.
Ed
chile62 said:
Had the USB issue on mine too.
Usb port is anchored down to circuit board in 4 places, those solder joints get
loose and the trouble begins.
I used a regular soldering iron to heat up the solder and bring the port back against the circuit board tight, no more car-mode.
Ed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I appreciate the response and im looking into it myself but what exactly do those points have to do with the electronic conductivity of the port? Do they have something to do with the ground.
odd, i had this same problem, what fixed mine was flashing a new different nv, it stopped it almost immediately
MrStabby said:
Hey guys,
I have an evo that has a weird glitch with the USB port.
It seems, anytime the weather is humid, my phone will sparatically start switching in and out of car-mode repeatedly. This has been causing my phone's cpu use to spike, screen to turn on randomly, and worst of all - when the phone is in car mode, I lose control of changing media volume with up-down switch, it forces dock volume.
From what I've found online, car mode is enable/disabled with the 4th pin going to ground in the USB port, which apparently my phone has been finding a way to bridge sporadically.
There are plenty of solutions that say 'delete the apk for the car mode app', but it'll still make me lose control of audio volume, and always be in speaker mode in calls.
Other than this problem, my phone works perfectly normal.
So, is there a way to prevent this pin from being picked up by the kernel or have android completely ignore this event or intent?
If I knew it was in the kernel source code (and where), I wouldn't mind learning how to cook a kernel myself to do it.
Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
loose usb port
mjhuffer said:
I appreciate the response and im looking into it myself but what exactly do those points have to do with the electronic conductivity of the port? Do they have something to do with the ground.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 4 points only hold the usb plug on to the board, on the backside of the plug, is where the actual connections are being made. They are almost like spring loaded connections.
When the soldered points get weak, the usb gets pulled pulled away from the mother board and some of the pins will not make contact.
Ed
Here is a kernel for CM7 removing dock accessory detection based on the latest CM7 kernel. If someone wants to build a version for Sense or based on another kernel, just unselect config_usb_accessory_detect and config_dock_accessory_detect support under USB Support > USB Gadget Support > Dock Accessory Detect in the kernel config before building.
This is crazy mine an my girls phones are doing this we bought a charger off of eBay an that's when it started I tried titanium pro an froze car mode seems to work but just a bandaid
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA Premium App
sbradymobile said:
Here is a kernel for CM7 removing dock accessory detection based on the latest CM7 kernel. If someone wants to build a version for Sense or based on another kernel, just unselect dock support under USB Support > USB Gadget Support > Dock Accessory Detect in the kernel config before building.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks man I'm going to wait for some dev to jump on this. Hopefully someone can create a .zip so you can flash it over any kernel. I would really just like the stock kernel with this option added in.
So one feature not many people realize the Samsung Galaxy S3 has is the ability to redirect the line output through a dock. This is particularly helpful in a car where you can have it actually output straight to the stereo system when you plug it into a dock, but even in a home environment it can be handy if you have a dock with speakers built in or just leave something plugged into a dock for convenience. However, it seems in CyanogenMod 10 monthly at least it doesn't work. When I clicked the "request device support" button (thinking he probably wouldn't even touch CM10 given that it's still not really "officially supporting" the SGS3 yet anyway, I did get this response:
Please have the ROM dev supporting your model verify the correct mapping exists between the ROM audio device and the kernel audio path (commonly set in libaudio).
Example: DEVICE_OUT_ANLG_DOCK_HEADSET in ROM should map to the path PLAYBACK_EXTRA_DOCK in the kernel.
Regards,
Dan
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So if I go by this it sounds like it's mostly just a matter of a configuration in the audio libraries being used and I just need to let someone know.
I know this isn't important by any means, but it does seem like something that should probably still go in there just whenever they could get around to it. It can be very convenient at times IMO.
I believe all the framework is there.. we are just waiting on http://review.cyanogenmod.org/#/c/25274/ to be merged.
Nazo said:
So one feature not many people realize the Samsung Galaxy S3 has is the ability to redirect the line output through a dock. This is particularly helpful in a car where you can have it actually output straight to the stereo system when you plug it into a dock, but even in a home environment it can be handy if you have a dock with speakers built in or just leave something plugged into a dock for convenience. However, it seems in CyanogenMod 10 monthly at least it doesn't work. When I clicked the "request device support" button (thinking he probably wouldn't even touch CM10 given that it's still not really "officially supporting" the SGS3 yet anyway, I did get this response:
So if I go by this it sounds like it's mostly just a matter of a configuration in the audio libraries being used and I just need to let someone know.
I know this isn't important by any means, but it does seem like something that should probably still go in there just whenever they could get around to it. It can be very convenient at times IMO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
mastamoon said:
I believe all the framework is there.. we are just waiting on http://review.cyanogenmod.org/#/c/25274/ to be merged.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, this is good to hear. It's obviously no high priority, so it will go in when it goes in, but I was worried I'd have to contact all sorts of people to bring it up as it seems like something they wouldn't have even thought of.
Thanks for the info.
I want this also, believe me. I just bought 5 of the Infuse 4G docks that ATT had on sale for 5 dollars. 2 desk docks and 3 car docks.
Nazo said:
Ah, this is good to hear. It's obviously no high priority, so it will go in when it goes in, but I was worried I'd have to contact all sorts of people to bring it up as it seems like something they wouldn't have even thought of.
Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm cheating. I ripped apart a desk dock that was being clearanced out by a seller on Amazon for the Galaxy S2 I think it was, and adapted it to be my car dock. The USB connector is on a small cable already, so the cable just sticks out and the rest of the electronics are housed in a micro-sized Altoids tin (one of those little ones you can buy for $1 or so.) This way I can just plug it in and it's compatible with my Otterbox, so this method can be convenient for anyone who wants a "dock" that's compatible with skins and cases at the catch that the cable must be manually plugged in after dropping it into a generic dock. Super-cheap too since so many of the older ones are being clearanced out with the SGS3 now out. The only catch being that, of course, some work is required and of course anything remotely resembling a warranty on the dock is utterly wiped out, lol.
Along with a dock control app that is set to automatically change settings like Bluetooth and to start my audio player, it's super convenient to just drop the phone into the generic dock in my car, plug that cable in, and I'm ready to go. I was using the line output redirector tool along with the stock firmware, but in the end I'd rather CyanogenMod and something minor like no line output redirecting (yet!) was no deterrent...
mastamoon said:
I believe all the framework is there.. we are just waiting on http://review.cyanogenmod.org/#/c/25274/ to be merged.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I looked at that link but can't figure out how the CM projects work. Is this change for Verizon GS3 only or is going to be included for all carriers? Also, the status of the change is merged. How can I see which nightly this went into?
I could be wrong, but I'm inclined to say that something like this would be at a different level than anything carrier-specific as it's really just a hardware-specific level and thus should be the same across all carriers. However, if it helps any, I can say that I'm using d2vzw (aka Verizon.)
Also, the status of the change is merged. How can I see which nightly this went into?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, I didn't notice that. I just checked on mine and it's in the stable 10.0 which I switched to the other day. I don't know what nightly it might have first made it into, but in other words, it's there now. I'm using the "Galaxy Dock Sound Redirector" app personally.
EDIT: Woops! Correction. I was using that program from before because the original firmware required it to redirect the sound. However, it looks like there is a setting in the advanced section under sound. I haven't tested to see if it works as fully for me (it's not helping that I use a dock originally made to be a "desk" dock in my car, so a lot of things react differently) but likely that app is only necessary with the stock firmware.
EDIT2: Had time to test it now. CM10 stable's dock output works perfectly entirely on its own. I don't need a third party app or anything. It's just in kind of an unusual location (IMO it might be better if it were in the sound section.)
So I recently updated to the 10.1 now that they have a monthly available (basically it was suggested to me that monthlies could be considered more "stable" and reliable than, say, nightlies if any CyanogenMod could really be called stable, lol) and much to my chagrin it seems like the dock audio no longer works with this one even though that patch was supposedly accepted for 10.0? (Surely they wouldn't remove it?) Is something just set wrong, or has dock audio support on the SGS3 actually disappeared after they went to all the trouble to add it?
It's a sad day to see something take a step backwards like this. I can only hope it will be resolved later, but who knows?
After a lot of reviews and reading I just ordered a 9" Idoing with CanBus for my 2018 WRX with Harman Kardon. A lot of positive reviews from WRX owners, but not seeing a lot of love(or hate) for the Idoing hear on XDA. It's nearly identical to the Joying, but Joying will not support the HK system in my car.
The system is an android 10, UIS 7862 4+64. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32955093508.html
I'm curious what custom options I have in terms of UI, ROMs, Root,, apps?
I'm guessing from what I read(or lack there of) ROMs are a no go, but what about root and other customization options?
Sorry long time rooter and custom ROM user for android phones and tablets, but total noob to android head units.
I have a Kenwood with wireless android auto in my old car and was going to move it to this one, but absolutely hate Android Auto almost as much as I hate mirrorlink in the stock HU in my WRX(shame on you subaru). Also the kit to install it from crutchfield cost nearly as much as the android unit and canbus shipped from china, so figured i'd take a chance.
If it doesn't work out I'll go with the kenwood, but really hopeful this will be a winner. I spent a lot of time on chat with them and they are extremely responsive to questions(really like live chat) where a question to Joying took 3 days to get a response.
I know there is little chance the 4G module will work in the US(IDoing says it works with tmobile) so expecting to use wifi tether with my phone with native apps and pretend android auto doesn't exist. Other option is put a spare phone with sim permanently connected to USB, but unsure if USB tether will work.
I will keep reading, but any thoughts or pointers are welcome. Just don't tell me to replace my HK system, I know not everyone likes it, but I love it ;-)
FAIR WARNING!!!! After a year with no issue, My IDoing fried itself today!! I was driving and it shut down and for about 1 minute I could smell burnt electronics. This was a plug n play install so no cutting, no splicing, no soldering. I am in the process of seeing what IDoing will do for me, but I expect the answer is nothing since it is now over a year old.
Update: Well at least IDoing is talking to me. I pulled the unit out today and put the Stock stereo back in(UGGGH). At least nothing else got fried.
Update 2: So they are saying that they want me to pull the unit off the mounting trim and mail it to them and they will send me a knew one. I'm assuming this is going to cost me 100 bucks in shipping and need to wait a month or more, but it's better response than I expect.
Update 3: They "say" that once I give them tracking number for the unit, they will ship new unit and all i have to pay for is return shipping(30 dollars)
Final Update: Well it cost me a lot more than the USPS web site inferred (85 dollars), but they shipped a replacement the same day I gave them the tracking for the return. New unit showed up in just over a week, Unit looks new installed in less than an hour and all works great, software looks to be nearly identical except the AA software that it came with support wireless out of the box, so small bons. Unfortunate the original unit fried itself after a year, but considering it was out of warranty I have to commend Idoing on how they handled this, now I just need to remember all the tweaks I had installed ;-)
Roms, you have 2 options both are "Lite" versions meaning you have to buy the other features.
No real need for twrp.
Best bet make sure it works with Android auto wireless
Also pay close attention to the button layouts for the different types of screens.
Most development will be in the "Android auto" fourm
Also ask the seller to provided the zlink activation codes
Hmm, I'm curious why I would use AA at all with this as opposed to running apps on the unit with wifi tether? I've used AA Mirror in the past with my kenwood, but would prefer to avoid that path if possible.
It should work with AA, but not wireless as far as I know.
So my unit arrived today:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32955093508.html
Got it to the point of plugging it in to test in the car.
Adding Heating controls vents was a Piece of Cake and this thing looks amazing
Tested:
Screen: Fast and gorgeous responsive, seems very good in bright sunlight
capacitive buttons:, work well , Reset and reprogrammed and much better. Also Illumination is working with custom colors.
Well Documented low volume buzz... Yep it's there, goes away if you mute the radio. Will look for setting to reduce perhaps as well as talk to IDoing
Harman Kardon Canbus, Works plug and play. One issue that may be related is the Fade controls don't really work to fade to rear as they mute the rear, while balance controls work fine... Talking to IDoing now and they just confirmed that any factory amp radio has this issue.
Wifi 5ghz tether, works flawlessly, get 50mbit off my cell. Not the fastest but more than good enough
Play store/google account setup: works flawlessly. Have installed several apps already
Waze/GPS: works flawlessly
USB: 3 dongles, all work for USB Drives, haven't tested for phone connection
Flac: Works off all 3 usb(one main reason I went with this unit)
4g: Working well with t-mobile, not working with verizon. Verizon shows as full bars, bars when I went more urban, but there are no APN settings and I cant get data to work.
Bluetooth audio: works ok, sound doesn't seem fantastic, but i will probably never use.
Android Auto: Wired works great, can't get wireless to work even though my phone says the head unit supports it. Wired it's very fast and responsive and looks great.
Carplay: works wired and woreless, didn't test much as I don't use apple except for app testing.
Fubo/Video: Works very well screen is gorgeous
Developer options: IDoing gave me codes
Launcher: Pretty flexible with different options.
Got USB Debugging, ADB to work today. In developer setting there is 3 "..." at the top, in there is USB mode, top is host mode, bottom is device mode(ADB).
Once I got ADB going I got SystemUITuner granted permissions to control immersive mode for Waze and the like.
Custom Launcher: Got custom launchers working with a trick to use the setting in Nova to set default launcher. Now Rocking Car Web Guru launcher. Also Like Car Launcher Free Version.
Split screen : woks well and is even remembered as last view on soft boot.
Geekbench: 500+, 1300+ very pleased.
android auto with Head unit reloaded: tested with dev server method. Works well with wireless, but UI layout is pretty bad.
Console USB Adapter: Bought from amazon, works perfectly. Now 4 functioning USB
USB access for File Manager : doesn't work yet
Music Apps: do have access to USB
Automation: Used Macrodroid to start Android auto whenever the phone usb is plugged in, or to start spotifiy if no usb and wifi connects. Will do some more of these.
Overall:
Bummed about the rear speaker control, will have to see how much it affects my listening, found subwoofer control an tweaked EQ, sound is quite nice, still wish fade worked. Ok next note to others, make sure you calibrate your EQ with your back seats up. I forgot I had put them down to get my bike in and that was half my disappointment with the sound. Yes I still wish I had fade, but this thing sounds Really nice once dialed in.
The buzz is "irritating" that it exists, but unlikely a real issue for me.. Totally inaudible when car is running.
Otherwise this thing is pretty sweet so far.
Hi gottahavit,
I was just looking at this model on aliexpress and this post comes in just in time as you would say. I have a 2017 STI with no HK
What is your experience with the Mic for calls? does it retain the factory mic or do we have to plug in a new one?
You mention codes for Dev, can you share these?
The console USB Adapter - Which one did you use? do you have a link?
Have you tested ODB2 with apps like Torque?
The External GPS antenna is it required for it to work?
What about the 4G antennas?
thanks so much!
seryser said:
Hi gottahavit,
I was just looking at this model on aliexpress and this post comes in just in time as you would say. I have a 2017 STI with no HK
What is your experience with the Mic for calls? does it retain the factory mic or do we have to plug in a new one?
You mention codes for Dev, can you share these?
The console USB Adapter - Which one did you use? do you have a link?
Have you tested ODB2 with apps like Torque?
The External GPS antenna is it required for it to work?
What about the 4G antennas?
thanks so much!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So first, IDoing have been fantastic in helping with the right purchase and the support, but that said this suffers from a lot of issues the other MFG units do. If you had HK I'd def recommend the IDoing as it's plug and play works great.
However if you don't have the HK I might suggest you get a version with optical or coax out. I think Joying and Daisata sell the same unit but with one or the other cabling.
I don't really make calls, but have tested a couple and was told the mic is ok. No you can't keep the stock mic or GPS.
Codes:3368 for factory, 7171 for Launchers
USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DJ4KVQ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 works perfectly.
No ODB2 here, should be the same as the Joying in another thread.
You need the GPS if you want waze or maps on the unit vs AA or Carplay. I just mounted it on the top of the unit and it works great.
4G works fine with Tmobile, I tested with a Mint mobile trial, but cannot get proper APNs in for Verizon SIm to work(still on my hit list)
I recommend the coax as so many of these unit suffer from some form of ground loop interference which is just annoying even if it doesn't really affect the sound. I had no choice given the HK system
Even with the HK this thing cranks our a lot more power than the POS subaru unit..
These things are great and all the work of install is getting the old unit out. It's not perfect but leaps and bounds above stock.
The other reason to go with Joying is you'll get more support here than you will with the IDoing(very specialized to subaru).
If you do buy from IDoing just chat with them first they will help you pick the proper unit and any canbus for your car.
I would definitely go with the UIS7862 version, as this thing is fast!
Thanks for all the information! Really clarifies what i need to get. Ill look at the joying unit and see what the differences are... There was also the Teyes CC3, but man is it more expensive but looks absolutely awesome
seryser said:
Thanks for all the information! Really clarifies what i need to get. Ill look at the joying unit and see what the differences are... There was also the Teyes CC3, but man is it more expensive but looks absolutely awesome
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking I see the unit 6+128 would be cool, but be careful, they all say forrester and have foreester button config for the top lcd and 4-wasy buttons. Maybe they have insert for WRX like IDoing. Also I don't see and coax or optical out, but just did quick search. Keep in mind that a lot of that marketing material is just that. I love my unit, but you can't believe everything you read. Also that's cheaper the IDoing or Joying. I think the key is make sure it has the key connections you want(optical, coax, HK my case) and that it fits your car.
Idoing is reseller of various types of kanged android head units.
Would be good to know factory/manufacturer or unit - sounds like it might be an FYT? You will then be able to know what rom options and mods are available from the forums.
Manufacturer can generally be identified from MCU version, what is the full MCU version listed?
marchnz said:
Idoing is reseller of various types of kanged android head units.
Would be good to know factory/manufacturer or unit - sounds like it might be an FYT? You will then be able to know what rom options and mods are available from the forums.
Manufacturer can generally be identified from MCU version, what is the full MCU version listed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IDoing is FYT, they are the only ones with the canbus for the HK system in my car, but that's fine for seryser as he/she has base stereo., but with no HK I recommend getting a unit with optical or coax.
Just a note on the WRX install, you will be tempted(as I was) to not drop the drivers air bag and try to get to the 10mm bolt on that side. DROP THE STUPID AIRBAG!!!!
It's really near impossible to get enough purchase on the bolt unless you do. I wasted an hour trying to not drop the air bag and gave up and had it done in 5 min.
When you put the new unit it, they are TIGHT, snap the clips at the bottom, bend in the clips at the top, then push REAL hard in the top of the screen to sanp the middle clips. They will snap in and what a beautiful fit this unit has. Make sure you run all your cables where you want them before you snap it in! You get 3 usb, I removed the cigarettes lighter under the unit and cut it and plugged it to have one USB in snapped in, ran the other two into the glove box along with the stock usb plug(was amazed it was long enough), then you just plug it into the adapter and one USB plug right in the glove box. Now I have one under the unit, one in the glove box, and 2 in the center console.
I just found the USB Mode toggle on the UIS7862 IDoing. It's the "..." menu at the root of developer setting. Two items in Chinese, top one is host mode, bottom is device mode. Got USB Debugging working fine even with usb-c cable from my laptop.
A picture's worth a thousand words
ludditefornow said:
A picture's worth a thousand words
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can post pics later, but if you can get into developer settings. Immediately in the top right there is a menu button(...) click that and there is one option "USB Configuration", click that you get a popup with 2 options in it in chinese. The first is USB Host mode and the second is Device mode which will let you do USB Debugging from a laptop.
again this is on my IDoing, YMMV
gottahavit said:
So my unit arrived today:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32955093508.html
Got it to the point of plugging it in to test in the car.
Adding Heating controls vents was a Piece of Cake and this thing looks amazing
Tested:
Screen: Fast and gorgeous responsive, seems very good in bright sunlight
capacitive buttons:, work well , Reset and reprogrammed and much better. Also Illumination is working with custom colors.
Well Documented low volume buzz... Yep it's there, goes away if you mute the radio. Will look for setting to reduce perhaps as well as talk to IDoing
Harman Kardon Canbus, Works plug and play. One issue that may be related is the Fade controls don't really work to fade to rear as they mute the rear, while balance controls work fine... Talking to IDoing now and they just confirmed that any factory amp radio has this issue.
Wifi 5ghz tether, works flawlessly, get 50mbit off my cell. Not the fastest but more than good enough
Play store/google account setup: works flawlessly. Have installed several apps already
Waze/GPS: works flawlessly
USB: 3 dongles, all work for USB Drives, haven't tested for phone connection
Flac: Works off all 3 usb(one main reason I went with this unit)
4g: Working well with t-mobile, not working with verizon. Verizon shows as full bars, bars when I went more urban, but there are no APN settings and I cant get data to work.
Bluetooth audio: works ok, sound doesn't seem fantastic, but i will probably never use.
Android Auto: Wired works great, can't get wireless to work even though my phone says the head unit supports it. Wired it's very fast and responsive and looks great.
Carplay: works wired and woreless, didn't test much as I don't use apple except for app testing.
Fubo/Video: Works very well screen is gorgeous
Developer options: IDoing gave me codes
Launcher: Pretty flexible with different options.
Got USB Debugging, ADB to work today. In developer setting there is 3 "..." at the top, in there is USB mode, top is host mode, bottom is device mode(ADB).
Once I got ADB going I got SystemUITuner granted permissions to control immersive mode for Waze and the like.
Custom Launcher: Got custom launchers working with a trick to use the setting in Nova to set default launcher. Now Rocking Car Web Guru launcher. Also Like Car Launcher Free Version.
Split screen : woks well and is even remembered as last view on soft boot.
Geekbench: 500+, 1300+ very pleased.
android auto with Head unit reloaded: tested with dev server method. Works well with wireless, but UI layout is pretty bad.
Console USB Adapter: Bought from amazon, works perfectly. Now 4 functioning USB
USB access for File Manager : doesn't work yet
Music Apps: do have access to USB
Automation: Used Macrodroid to start Android auto whenever the phone usb is plugged in, or to start spotifiy if no usb and wifi connects. Will do some more of these.
Overall:
Bummed about the rear speaker control, will have to see how much it affects my listening, found subwoofer control an tweaked EQ, sound is quite nice, still wish fade worked. Ok next note to others, make sure you calibrate your EQ with your back seats up. I forgot I had put them down to get my bike in and that was half my disappointment with the sound. Yes I still wish I had fade, but this thing sounds Really nice once dialed in.
The buzz is "irritating" that it exists, but unlikely a real issue for me.. Totally inaudible when car is running.
Otherwise this thing is pretty sweet so far.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What a good review!!!
Really "irritating" the permanent buzz. Only dissapear with volume to zero every time I turn on the unit. If somebody find a fix i will be more than happy
JAR99 said:
What a good review!!!
Really "irritating" the permanent buzz. Only dissapear with volume to zero every time I turn on the unit. If somebody find a fix i will be more than happy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I agree, at tis point it's the only real gripe I have with the unit. The thing is amazing compared to the crap that Subaru put in.
The issue seems to be pretty common on these chinese units, which is why if I didn't have the HK setup I would have bought one with Optical or Coax. Honestly you can't hear it when listening to music, but... If I ever pull the unit out again I will try to ground the board to see what that does.
IDoing has "tried" to be helpful, and they are extremely responsive on aliexpress.
I'm glad you found my review useful.
So I managed to get APN setting for verizon to stick, and I ca see the verizon network if I use a replacement mobile network settings like from CWG, however even though it will connect and I have the APN it sitll won't get any mobile data on the verizon network. I'm beginning to think they have it hardcoded in the System to only work with t-mobile. Either that or Verizon is rejecting data requests from the device even tough it lets it connect. I've tried with both true Verizon Sim and an Xfinity Mobile Sim(Both verizon, but different APNs).
gottahavit said:
Yes I agree, at tis point it's the only real gripe I have with the unit. The thing is amazing compared to the crap that Subaru put in.
The issue seems to be pretty common on these chinese units, which is why if I didn't have the HK setup I would have bought one with Optical or Coax. Honestly you can't hear it when listening to music, but... If I ever pull the unit out again I will try to ground the board to see what that does.
IDoing has "tried" to be helpful, and they are extremely responsive on aliexpress.
I'm glad you found my review useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do these buzz even if you don't have the hk?
speeddemon1891 said:
Do these buzz even if you don't have the hk?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe they do, only way around it without playing with internals is to get one with the coax or optical out and use that, then it's digital to your amp.
gottahavit said:
I believe they do, only way around it without playing with internals is to get one with the coax or optical out and use that, then it's digital to your amp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Think it might be possible to add some kind of pass-through filter/adapter to the RCA leads which could help reduce or eliminate the buzz?