Sorry this is way off topic but i just got a used laptop and the power plug is loose well when i took it apart i saw that some one else had been in here all ready. what im trying to find out is does any one know where i can find out how to repair a solder point when th solder is off the circuit board?.. yes i know how to solder but what the problem is is how do you solder back a power connecting prong when ther isnt any solder on the board at that point.. i allso need to find some skematics for my mother board.. I have been up all night trying find this info out on line and eather google is starting to suck or the old way of looking isnt working. thanks PLEASE HELP ME FIGURE THIS OUT>>> man im tired.
Usually you would bond the broken area back with an epoxy resin, such as araldite, then scrape the resin off of the track and use mod wire to solder between the two points.
Being a power socket though, I would use something thicker than normal mod wire.
thanks,skematics?
any idea on how to find the skematics for a fujistu c2010 lifebook? oh and thank you for your reply.
Can you get a photo of the solder point and an overview of the board or surrounding areas, and also model number of the board.
Normally in my experience, if the solder point has dissolved etc, just trace the path back to either another solder point on the same track, or if that's not feasible, scratch away some of the protective layer covering the desired track and solder a jumper wire directly to that point.
But, problems with this is that if you're talking about a power supply, then you might need some heavy duty wire, and may not have sufficient area to make a secure solder point...
But then again, I solder like a blind watchmaker.
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^^^ - me chipping a PS2
V
[edit - looks like a few of us replied at the same time, hence the multiplicty]
photo no. model number yes
ok i cant get a picture since i dont havea webcam. But the model number i can supply. Its a Fujistu c2010 ad the mother board says earthling2mainboar01. the model numbernow theres to main numbers on the board i can find so im not sure wich one its are.CP142350-z1 and 02801236104 and there is allso big FJ-T and theres a red dot by this, AH,57-xx i hope that helps. if thats not it wherte should it be located? oh and if i can give you a mental picture of the plug its kinda like this..
o -solder point
o
o the bottom one here is the one where the solder came off theboard so when you go to solder it there nothing there.
Related
I want to change my OEM digitizer with a new one. I've bought it but it comes with no installation guide.
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Anyone have a guide ?
Look at this: http://rapidshare.com/files/133052958/Diamond.pdf
wow it's too hard ..
i would only replace digitizer but this guide shown that i've to disassemble a thousand of components if i would access the digitizer
Did you change the digitizer???Because i have the same problem
All your devices are still under HTC warranty! Why do you want to do it yourself?
salada2k said:
All your devices are still under HTC warranty! Why do you want to do it yourself?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Because warranty service in Bulgaria until now no change is digitizer.They just do not know how to change this part.What do you advise me to do?
...In Bulgaria there is no representation of HTC.
I would call HTC and ask them what to do. I'm sure you could send it to them!
Can't you just take off the front isn't only just stuck there with double sided tape ?
I replaced the touchscreen in my Touch Dual and the hardest part was to find the right part after a hopeless and unhelpful ebay seller sent me the wrong part (still waiting for my refund) Once I got the correct part it was about 30mins work to swap it. I used double sided tape as the replacement parts don;t come with a gasket. I just cut my own and it stuck fine. Make sure you place parts together in stages of dis assembly as there's a few and some of the screws look the same but have different threads. I would have thought the diamond would be easier as it has no moving parts. Good luck.
link is broken
I have just stripped my Ignito (touch diamond) and it was no big deal but easily the most complicated phone I've dismantled. You dismantle the phone then peel the front clear skin off the digitiser, then gently lever-out the screen & digitizer together then split them. The LCD is VERY fragile, so use a real thin tool (like a feeler gauge) and go slowly to allow the glue time to come apart.
The digitizer and LCD ribbons are soldered together BTW so you'll need to use a soldering iron with a very fine tip to re-attach. I wrap some copper wire round a regular soldering iron tip for stuff like this to keep the heat input down.
Does anyone know ANYONE that knows another spot on the Circuit board that I can pick up USB at? My issues is that the micro usb port was damaged. The pads ripped off the pcb and most of the traces. I tried removing the enamel from the PCB to get a solder point for data + and data - but to no avail. If anyone can explain or show me pictures where else on the board I might be able to get the 4 USB points at I would be ever grateful. I'm boot looped AOPK 29, can't get into clockwork recovery mode. Download mode works..but the PC doesn't even see the phone(not at all..not a driver issues 100% sure). If I can get the USB running..I can flash it back to operating condition. At that point I can manage to solder on a new micro usb port and get to the +5v and -5v so I can charge the thing. As I mentioned before its the + and - data signal I can't get. So even if you can point out where to get a hold of those that would fix me too. I can solder pretty small.
Or anyone forum where you have a feeling someone might have an answer or would be kind enough to look at a high res picture of the PCB and help me trace it. I love my mesmerize to death. I'd really hate to see it die like this..It might be "legacy" But it'll post over 2500 quadrant and runs fast and smooth.
Thanks in advance.
Arick - AKA Gigaah
Gigaah said:
Does anyone know ANYONE that knows another spot on the Circuit board that I can pick up USB at? My issues is that the micro usb port was damaged. The pads ripped off the pcb and most of the traces. I tried removing the enamel from the PCB to get a solder point for data + and data - but to no avail. If anyone can explain or show me pictures where else on the board I might be able to get the 4 USB points at I would be ever grateful. I'm boot looped AOPK 29, can't get into clockwork recovery mode. Download mode works..but the PC doesn't even see the phone(not at all..not a driver issues 100% sure). If I can get the USB running..I can flash it back to operating condition. At that point I can manage to solder on a new micro usb port and get to the +5v and -5v so I can charge the thing. As I mentioned before its the + and - data signal I can't get. So even if you can point out where to get a hold of those that would fix me too. I can solder pretty small.
Or anyone forum where you have a feeling someone might have an answer or would be kind enough to look at a high res picture of the PCB and help me trace it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The data points are on the back of the board maybe this pic will help you
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Perfect! Thanks a lot.Now to muster enough soldering skill to hit those and not wreck things.
Hi I just wanted to completely brag
Ok I bought a N5 on Ebay with a "broken" PS-(Power-Switch).
I have seen a few way to repair it and thought this could be really doable...
It wasn't what I would name a "good hit" ^^
The phone had already been opened and a very unsuccessful repair had been conducted.
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Ok as you see, damn ^^
SO the solder pads were toasted (only epoxy)
Impossible to get it to work.
I googled (a lot) and found this thread from Rizwan Sayyed
http://www.mobilerdx.com/2015/03/repair-lg-nexus-5-d820-power-button-ways.html
Well, I did it The wire used is 0,35mm winding wire (they are isolated)
I actually have brought a litlle mods on it.
Here a pic:
why is it awesome? ^^ Well, because there is actually only one MB hack, which reduce of 50% the possibility of failure
The left port of the switch has to be connected to the little resistor as explained by Rizwan Sayyed
As soon as the frame of teh switch was still linked to the ground. I just had to solder the right port to the frame of the switch.
IT IZ DONE
That's actually quite simple even if VERY VERY tiny. It took me age to get it correctly welded and I must admit that I thought a bunch of times that it was "dead"
I secured the wire with hot glue (be careful it's tricky)
NOW there is a little draw back to this mod. The aluminum main back cover has a support directly on the ground trace. As soon as you have your hack-wire on the trace. You will have to substantially remove material on the rear cover.
Like this:
THAT'S ALL FOLKS!
Hope it helps some desperate guy somewhere
## Please note that this hack is actually pretty advanced and require MAD SOLDERING SKILLZ. Do it ONLY if you know what you are doing and are LIKE ME very very very good at it ^^## <-- Yes me pretty (and) proud
The Grüß,
H.
PS: Image are huge. "open in a new tab"
Please advice
Hello doodjob, thank you for posting this amazing info. One of the contact points (the one shown here i.e. the one you have connected with wire) is broken on my PCB, while the other is intact. Can you please suggest what I can do? Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
swappykzn said:
Hello doodjob, thank you for posting this amazing info. One of the contact points (the one shown here i.e. the one you have connected with wire) is broken on my PCB, while the other is intact. Can you please suggest what I can do? Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
didnt see your post mate ^^
its actually not a port but an sms cap. Do you have a picture of how broken is it?
So, just like many other owners I have had the following problems: bootloop, mic doesn't work, speaker doesn't work, fuzzy/crazy screen, touch not responding, USB connection not recognized, and LEDs not working .
I went through all the tricks which included putting pressure on the back of the phone where the flex cable attaches under the camera, and this temporarily solved the problem. Eventually no matter how hard I pushed, it would not work. I know now how this made things worse (explained later). So when that stopped working I ordered a new flex cable like others had, hoping it would be a permanent fix. Nope, no change. However, when I was detaching the flex cable for the last time, I noticed some of the pins in the main socket lifting up. Ah of course that's why pushing helps, the pins on the female side are broken and pushing helps re-establish their connection. The problem with the pushing solution, and especially when you push hard, the pins will bend away and never re-establish the connection.
If you look at an open phone, the socket (shown in the pic below) is located in the area most susceptible to damage in my opinion. I call it the fault line where the rigid battery meets the not so rigid main board. If you have micro cracks on the side of your phone, you have most likely flexed/bent your phone along this fault line. I keep my phone in my back pocket so I'm sure I have sat down and done this many times.
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So, the socket has the disadvantage of not being very sturdy, along with sitting on the fault line. The stresses placed upon it are likely snapping the pins. Here's the specs showing each pin. (rotate counter-clockwise to match up) On my phone, the left side of the socket was lifting out so all of those pins had snapped. These pins correspond to the problems I was having, eg. speaker, mic, screen, etc.
I don't know if this is a DIY fix or not. The pins are so small that if they hadn't lifted for me, I could not tell if they were snapped or not. I can tell you that the part number is ENBY0057001. I just haven't been able to find it in North America yet. If I did, would it be easy replace the broken one for a low cost?
Thanks
*crossing fingers my nexus 5 can be saved*
Hey, have you managed to find the broken part? unfortunally i have the same issue.
where did u get this part ?
same problem w me,
I replaced the bottom FLex but in vain,
I tried lots of rubber to add push up, it worked for a while ,but now it doesn't
I got this on my daily driver mainboard, colorful pixels all over the screen and mic not working.
However, it can be fixed with a tin heatgun, it's like you resolder those pins
my surface 2 does not turn on and does not react to the power button in any way. After I disassembled it, on the motherboard, after pressing, a red LED lights up and blinks, what could it be?
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Welcome to XDA
What's with the jumpers?
Hard reboot, disconnect the battery for a few seconds.
This may or may not be helpful.
Microsoft Surface Pro Laptop (Won’t Turn On)
Tip of the week: 2 methods to hard reboot your surface tablet if it won't start. Here is what we did after our Microsoft Surface froze.
www.lovemysurface.net
where are the jumpers?
I did everything as instructed, but nothing helped. Maybe there is some kind of instruction on the LEDs that are on the board? LEDs 2 pieces, only one flickers.
I don't understand what you were trying to test?
That PCB?
yes it is surface 2 pcb, not power on. I disassembled it, removed the board, checked the battery (the battery is okay), connected it to the laboratory unit, then pressed the power button, after pressing the red LED, the image on the display began flashing. Perhaps there is a schematic of the surface 2 motherboard?
Is this it?
http://laptop-schematics.com/view/12544/
A Google or Bing search is your best first bet.
It may be easier to replace the board(s). Make sure it's not a switch, connector, peripheral etc. causing the issue.
It may not be getting the V+ it needs on one of its rails, blown regulator, resistor, diode, bad cap*, cracked solder joint etc.
Examine the board closely with good light and magnification, look for cracked solder joints.
If they used lead free solder, it fails like woke sports players.
You need to find the V+ rail test points and go from there.
*electrolytic caps wuv to fail
blackhawk said:
Is this it?
http://laptop-schematics.com/view/12544/
A Google or Bing search is your best first bet.
It may be easier to replace the board(s). Make sure it's not a switch, connector, peripheral etc. causing the issue.
It may not be getting the V+ it needs on one of its rails, blown regulator, resistor, diode, bad cap*, cracked solder joint etc.
Examine the board closely with good light and magnification, look for cracked solder joints.
If they used lead free solder, it fails like woke sports players.
You need to find the V+ rail test points and go from there.
*electrolytic caps wuv to fail
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Link to
Microsoft Surface Book 2nd generation and I have a surface 2 on windows RT
Doesn't anyone really mean what kind of LED it is on the board and how should it blink?