So, just like many other owners I have had the following problems: bootloop, mic doesn't work, speaker doesn't work, fuzzy/crazy screen, touch not responding, USB connection not recognized, and LEDs not working .
I went through all the tricks which included putting pressure on the back of the phone where the flex cable attaches under the camera, and this temporarily solved the problem. Eventually no matter how hard I pushed, it would not work. I know now how this made things worse (explained later). So when that stopped working I ordered a new flex cable like others had, hoping it would be a permanent fix. Nope, no change. However, when I was detaching the flex cable for the last time, I noticed some of the pins in the main socket lifting up. Ah of course that's why pushing helps, the pins on the female side are broken and pushing helps re-establish their connection. The problem with the pushing solution, and especially when you push hard, the pins will bend away and never re-establish the connection.
If you look at an open phone, the socket (shown in the pic below) is located in the area most susceptible to damage in my opinion. I call it the fault line where the rigid battery meets the not so rigid main board. If you have micro cracks on the side of your phone, you have most likely flexed/bent your phone along this fault line. I keep my phone in my back pocket so I'm sure I have sat down and done this many times.
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So, the socket has the disadvantage of not being very sturdy, along with sitting on the fault line. The stresses placed upon it are likely snapping the pins. Here's the specs showing each pin. (rotate counter-clockwise to match up) On my phone, the left side of the socket was lifting out so all of those pins had snapped. These pins correspond to the problems I was having, eg. speaker, mic, screen, etc.
I don't know if this is a DIY fix or not. The pins are so small that if they hadn't lifted for me, I could not tell if they were snapped or not. I can tell you that the part number is ENBY0057001. I just haven't been able to find it in North America yet. If I did, would it be easy replace the broken one for a low cost?
Thanks
*crossing fingers my nexus 5 can be saved*
Hey, have you managed to find the broken part? unfortunally i have the same issue.
where did u get this part ?
same problem w me,
I replaced the bottom FLex but in vain,
I tried lots of rubber to add push up, it worked for a while ,but now it doesn't
I got this on my daily driver mainboard, colorful pixels all over the screen and mic not working.
However, it can be fixed with a tin heatgun, it's like you resolder those pins
Related
Sorry this is way off topic but i just got a used laptop and the power plug is loose well when i took it apart i saw that some one else had been in here all ready. what im trying to find out is does any one know where i can find out how to repair a solder point when th solder is off the circuit board?.. yes i know how to solder but what the problem is is how do you solder back a power connecting prong when ther isnt any solder on the board at that point.. i allso need to find some skematics for my mother board.. I have been up all night trying find this info out on line and eather google is starting to suck or the old way of looking isnt working. thanks PLEASE HELP ME FIGURE THIS OUT>>> man im tired.
Usually you would bond the broken area back with an epoxy resin, such as araldite, then scrape the resin off of the track and use mod wire to solder between the two points.
Being a power socket though, I would use something thicker than normal mod wire.
thanks,skematics?
any idea on how to find the skematics for a fujistu c2010 lifebook? oh and thank you for your reply.
Can you get a photo of the solder point and an overview of the board or surrounding areas, and also model number of the board.
Normally in my experience, if the solder point has dissolved etc, just trace the path back to either another solder point on the same track, or if that's not feasible, scratch away some of the protective layer covering the desired track and solder a jumper wire directly to that point.
But, problems with this is that if you're talking about a power supply, then you might need some heavy duty wire, and may not have sufficient area to make a secure solder point...
But then again, I solder like a blind watchmaker.
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^^^ - me chipping a PS2
V
[edit - looks like a few of us replied at the same time, hence the multiplicty]
photo no. model number yes
ok i cant get a picture since i dont havea webcam. But the model number i can supply. Its a Fujistu c2010 ad the mother board says earthling2mainboar01. the model numbernow theres to main numbers on the board i can find so im not sure wich one its are.CP142350-z1 and 02801236104 and there is allso big FJ-T and theres a red dot by this, AH,57-xx i hope that helps. if thats not it wherte should it be located? oh and if i can give you a mental picture of the plug its kinda like this..
o -solder point
o
o the bottom one here is the one where the solder came off theboard so when you go to solder it there nothing there.
I was doing a screen replacement on a Nexus 5 and a small part from the motherboard fell off.
3 pictures to illustrate the problem here:
http://min.us/mKOC4FQe6F0HI
Afterwards, the mobile connection was a lot worse than before. Now, 2 weeks later, the phone's connection has become unusable and it constantly shows no service. Only very rarely does it have any sort of connection (Edge/3G/H/4G).
Questions:
1)What is the part that came off? (see album above) My knowledge is a bit limited but I'm quite sure it has to do with the connection? I notice there are 3 other parts exactly like this spread over the motherboard.
2)Can I repair it? Do I glue it back on? Do I solder it on? Does it somehow click on? (I have tried if it clicks but this part is so tiny it's almost impossible to really handle
3)Based on my explanation, do you think this tiny part is the only cause? The phone still had some connection at first but it got worse. I'm also planning to order replacement antenna cables to see if that helps.
Thanks in advance!
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In my case.. I had to replace the charging circuit Cuz it was 'broken' as described by the cellphone shop.. It has connections to the antenna.. Now phone is fully working.. Before that though, I tried different sim cards with different companies (bell Rogers and fido) all worked on my phone except my carrier sim card (mobilicity). After replacing the circuit I just mentioned everything works fine. Cost is 25$
Needs solder it's an rf trimmer /radio frequency. It's vital to an ariel of one type or other. If you want to risk a bodge assemble everything except the back and hold it in place with bluetack. If it works I was going to say epoxy it but don't. Get someone to solder it. It's easy to do if you have the skills.
Oh vital it's right way round and has now been turned. There should be a slot for tuning it.
[TL;DR - opened my phone using screwdriver down the headphones hole to pop open the back cover, reassembled everything, must've bent one of the connectors inside the headphones hole, bent it back, sound is OKAY, mic+buttons is NOT]
Hi all!
I just opened up and reassembled my OPO to change my microphone and battery (both works perfectly fine, wooo!)
After the reassembly, I stuck my regular earpieces in the headphone slot of the phone, and I noticed a piece of metal was sticking out from the side, inside the slot (it went horizontally across the hole, about 3mm down).
I just pushed my earpices down slowly, and it just.. bent down easily and made room. I got sound in my earpices, and I could skip songs / change volume using them, as I always could.
However, when I was walking home from work, I noticed that the buttons didn't work anymore - I couldn't skip songs, adjust volume, nothing. They still won't work :/
I opened up the phone again to see if something was broken, but it -seems- okay; No dust, no broken pieces, but I dunno.. The headphone slot feels "firmer" than it used to be as well, but it plays audio just fine. It's just the buttons that annoys me.
NOTE: When I removed the back cover, I stuck a tiny screwdriver down the headphones hole and jerked it lightly backwards for the cover to pop open.
Here's a crappy MSpaint image on how it looks:
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There are two small golden "dots" inside on the right (when keeping your screen facing you) and the bottom. On the left side is the golden "rod" that stuck out when I inserted the earpieces. There's a small crack just above where the rod starts, dunno if it's damaged or supposed to be that way.
Pictures:
Thank you!
*Bump*
Hi, I could use a bit of help, if possible. My phone (S6 Edge) went into salt water and then quickly died. My goal at this point is to hack the phone back to life just long enough to do one final backup. At this point I have disassembled the phone and cleaned the salt residue off the board with a soft toothbrush and alcohol.
Here's a picture of the main board where the battery attaches. It appears that the saltwater created a short here and essentially melted the power connector. The battery connector (not shown) is similarly destroyed.
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My assumption is that there are normally 4 circuits between the main board and the battery:
1) +3.85V
2) GND
3) Temp sense (thermister?)
4) Temp sense
Unfortunately it's hard for me to tell what goes where because both connectors are so badly destroyed, but here is my guess:
What I'd like to try (nothing to lose at this point) is to wire up these four circuits and bring them out to a lab bench power supply and perhaps a resistor to emulate the temperature sense.
Questions:
a) Are my assumptions on +/- voltage connections correct?
b) Does the phone require a completed circuit on the temp sense pair?
c) If so, what is the nominal value of resistance on the temp sense pair?
Thanks to anyone who may have mapped out this part of this board....
Bryan
You are right about the PWR pins - GND is thermally relieved from GND polygon. The other thick track or 'region' should be battery voltage.
Somehow I doubt that both thin tracks are used for temp. sensing, unless it's a differential signal. You can test this with a 2 channel oscilloscope, provided that you have a working battery.
Either way, if temp. sensing won't work, everything else should. Try hooking it up to a power supply. 3.8 to 4 volts shuld do just fine. The thing is that (and you are probably aware of this) electronics don't work well with salt water Especially ones with batteries in it. Chances are that one or more chips are fried, in which case.. well, you get it... Even if chips are fine, the solder joints are most likely corroded, which means that not all pins are electrically connected to the pcb.
If the data is really important to you, you might be able to desolder the nand flash and resolder it on a working motherboard. BUT! I have no idea if this would actually work - just a wild guess. Also, there is always a chance to overheat the chip.
If you're skilled enough with electronics and programming, you could try and look up the datasheet of the nand. From there you could try and figure out how to read raw data off of it. If you do, you might be able to build a device for reading the nand directly and storing the data wherever. Not particularly handy for a one time use, but would make for a fun project ^^
my surface 2 does not turn on and does not react to the power button in any way. After I disassembled it, on the motherboard, after pressing, a red LED lights up and blinks, what could it be?
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Welcome to XDA
What's with the jumpers?
Hard reboot, disconnect the battery for a few seconds.
This may or may not be helpful.
Microsoft Surface Pro Laptop (Won’t Turn On)
Tip of the week: 2 methods to hard reboot your surface tablet if it won't start. Here is what we did after our Microsoft Surface froze.
www.lovemysurface.net
where are the jumpers?
I did everything as instructed, but nothing helped. Maybe there is some kind of instruction on the LEDs that are on the board? LEDs 2 pieces, only one flickers.
I don't understand what you were trying to test?
That PCB?
yes it is surface 2 pcb, not power on. I disassembled it, removed the board, checked the battery (the battery is okay), connected it to the laboratory unit, then pressed the power button, after pressing the red LED, the image on the display began flashing. Perhaps there is a schematic of the surface 2 motherboard?
Is this it?
http://laptop-schematics.com/view/12544/
A Google or Bing search is your best first bet.
It may be easier to replace the board(s). Make sure it's not a switch, connector, peripheral etc. causing the issue.
It may not be getting the V+ it needs on one of its rails, blown regulator, resistor, diode, bad cap*, cracked solder joint etc.
Examine the board closely with good light and magnification, look for cracked solder joints.
If they used lead free solder, it fails like woke sports players.
You need to find the V+ rail test points and go from there.
*electrolytic caps wuv to fail
blackhawk said:
Is this it?
http://laptop-schematics.com/view/12544/
A Google or Bing search is your best first bet.
It may be easier to replace the board(s). Make sure it's not a switch, connector, peripheral etc. causing the issue.
It may not be getting the V+ it needs on one of its rails, blown regulator, resistor, diode, bad cap*, cracked solder joint etc.
Examine the board closely with good light and magnification, look for cracked solder joints.
If they used lead free solder, it fails like woke sports players.
You need to find the V+ rail test points and go from there.
*electrolytic caps wuv to fail
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Link to
Microsoft Surface Book 2nd generation and I have a surface 2 on windows RT
Doesn't anyone really mean what kind of LED it is on the board and how should it blink?