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solder repair heeeeelp..

Sorry this is way off topic but i just got a used laptop and the power plug is loose well when i took it apart i saw that some one else had been in here all ready. what im trying to find out is does any one know where i can find out how to repair a solder point when th solder is off the circuit board?.. yes i know how to solder but what the problem is is how do you solder back a power connecting prong when ther isnt any solder on the board at that point.. i allso need to find some skematics for my mother board.. I have been up all night trying find this info out on line and eather google is starting to suck or the old way of looking isnt working. thanks PLEASE HELP ME FIGURE THIS OUT>>> man im tired.

Usually you would bond the broken area back with an epoxy resin, such as araldite, then scrape the resin off of the track and use mod wire to solder between the two points.
Being a power socket though, I would use something thicker than normal mod wire.

thanks,skematics?
any idea on how to find the skematics for a fujistu c2010 lifebook? oh and thank you for your reply.

Can you get a photo of the solder point and an overview of the board or surrounding areas, and also model number of the board.
Normally in my experience, if the solder point has dissolved etc, just trace the path back to either another solder point on the same track, or if that's not feasible, scratch away some of the protective layer covering the desired track and solder a jumper wire directly to that point.
But, problems with this is that if you're talking about a power supply, then you might need some heavy duty wire, and may not have sufficient area to make a secure solder point...
But then again, I solder like a blind watchmaker.
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^^^ - me chipping a PS2
V
[edit - looks like a few of us replied at the same time, hence the multiplicty]

photo no. model number yes
ok i cant get a picture since i dont havea webcam. But the model number i can supply. Its a Fujistu c2010 ad the mother board says earthling2mainboar01. the model numbernow theres to main numbers on the board i can find so im not sure wich one its are.CP142350-z1 and 02801236104 and there is allso big FJ-T and theres a red dot by this, AH,57-xx i hope that helps. if thats not it wherte should it be located? oh and if i can give you a mental picture of the plug its kinda like this..
o -solder point
o
o the bottom one here is the one where the solder came off theboard so when you go to solder it there nothing there.

Screen Broken or Loose Cable?

Screen Broken or Loose Cable?
What do ya think?
The first image is how it boots up. Note the solid BAR down the screen and the AWESOME color display to the right. :silly:
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If I put a little pressure on the device as if I am twisting it, the colored lines go away and I just have the solid bar running down the screen.
Its still fully functional.. other than that anyway...:silly:
Anyone ever see that before???
So, screen or cable?

I think your display cable is not fly seated.

Cable
Yup it's the cable. Sorry bro

robertomiro11 said:
Yup it's the cable. Sorry bro
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Is that a bad thing? Thats easier to fix than the screen though (I hope), right?

BuLLitz said:
Is that a bad thing? Thats easier to fix than the screen though (I hope), right?
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Should be. Remove the bezel (carefully) and then the back.
I made a guide on how to safely remove the bezel here: http://www.transformerforums.com/fo.../10501-rs-guide-power-lock-button-issues.html
Back has 10 screws, one at each corner and then three between the back and the glass on the two long edges.
Video cable and backlight cable are near the power port. Check that they are seated.

Thanks
frederuco said:
Video cable and backlight cable are near the power port. Check that they are seated.
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Thanks, that was exactly what I needed to fix my TF101. The screen was flickering in all sorts of colors, but it went back to normal when tapping it slightly onto the table, so it was clear it must have been some loose cable or the like. The connector was physically out of its socket, just sitting in front of it, looks like a miracle it still had enough connection to transmit any display image at all. The tablet had been with ASUS repair about a year ago for a touchscreen issue, so apparently some technican there failed to reconnect the cable properly.

Need Expert advice on DIY for OPO

Hi guys,
Yesterday my OPO fell down on a busy street and ran over by truck, cars and bikes. The display is completely broken. I tried turning on after that but the phone is not vibrating.
I took my device to service center today, but he said he tried changing teh battery and boot but no luck. So display and logic board needs to be changed.
So I decided tear down and wanted to run few steps.
1. Tried booting with wall charger but without battery - not heating, not booting
2. Connected battery and no wall charger - no luck, board not heating.
3. Connected battery and wall charger - board heating but not booting.
In all the above cases the rotor on the bottom is not spinning.
Question
1. Why board heats in step 3?
2. I plan to buy the display and battery, how do I make sure the board is perfect. BTW the board looks perfect?
3. In all the above tests, the SIM card is inserted and waited for few minutes and tried dialing my number but it says Switched off all the time. Is that mean the device is completely dead?
Need constructive replies please.
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If your device has really been ran over by truck or car, I don't think anything in the device will survive. (Maybe the plastic cover is flexible enough to withstand such pressure, but the motherboard is definitely not so strong although on the outside its not wrecked) As for the motherboard heating then wall charger and battery in, I suggest that it's because something is short circuited in the motherboard.
Sent from my ASUS_Z00AD using Tapatalk

Only heating with battery hooked up sounds to me like you are on the right track. The chip packages don't have internal wires to break these days. Good luck and report back.

I received my battery yesterday, I tested it, no sign of notification light, vibration during turn on. I tried connected it to PC, but dont know which process to look at. Any help?
Update: The process is "windows driver foundation user mode driver framework host process" but it shows when connected by other android not mine [broken opo]

Main board socket for flex cable is super fragile, has anyone replaced it?

So, just like many other owners I have had the following problems: bootloop, mic doesn't work, speaker doesn't work, fuzzy/crazy screen, touch not responding, USB connection not recognized, and LEDs not working .
I went through all the tricks which included putting pressure on the back of the phone where the flex cable attaches under the camera, and this temporarily solved the problem. Eventually no matter how hard I pushed, it would not work. I know now how this made things worse (explained later). So when that stopped working I ordered a new flex cable like others had, hoping it would be a permanent fix. Nope, no change. However, when I was detaching the flex cable for the last time, I noticed some of the pins in the main socket lifting up. Ah of course that's why pushing helps, the pins on the female side are broken and pushing helps re-establish their connection. The problem with the pushing solution, and especially when you push hard, the pins will bend away and never re-establish the connection.
If you look at an open phone, the socket (shown in the pic below) is located in the area most susceptible to damage in my opinion. I call it the fault line where the rigid battery meets the not so rigid main board. If you have micro cracks on the side of your phone, you have most likely flexed/bent your phone along this fault line. I keep my phone in my back pocket so I'm sure I have sat down and done this many times.
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So, the socket has the disadvantage of not being very sturdy, along with sitting on the fault line. The stresses placed upon it are likely snapping the pins. Here's the specs showing each pin. (rotate counter-clockwise to match up) On my phone, the left side of the socket was lifting out so all of those pins had snapped. These pins correspond to the problems I was having, eg. speaker, mic, screen, etc.
I don't know if this is a DIY fix or not. The pins are so small that if they hadn't lifted for me, I could not tell if they were snapped or not. I can tell you that the part number is ENBY0057001. I just haven't been able to find it in North America yet. If I did, would it be easy replace the broken one for a low cost?
Thanks
*crossing fingers my nexus 5 can be saved*

Hey, have you managed to find the broken part? unfortunally i have the same issue.

where did u get this part ?
same problem w me,
I replaced the bottom FLex but in vain,
I tried lots of rubber to add push up, it worked for a while ,but now it doesn't

I got this on my daily driver mainboard, colorful pixels all over the screen and mic not working.
However, it can be fixed with a tin heatgun, it's like you resolder those pins

help - Battery connector on S6 Edge main board

Hi, I could use a bit of help, if possible. My phone (S6 Edge) went into salt water and then quickly died. My goal at this point is to hack the phone back to life just long enough to do one final backup. At this point I have disassembled the phone and cleaned the salt residue off the board with a soft toothbrush and alcohol.
Here's a picture of the main board where the battery attaches. It appears that the saltwater created a short here and essentially melted the power connector. The battery connector (not shown) is similarly destroyed.
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My assumption is that there are normally 4 circuits between the main board and the battery:
1) +3.85V
2) GND
3) Temp sense (thermister?)
4) Temp sense
Unfortunately it's hard for me to tell what goes where because both connectors are so badly destroyed, but here is my guess:
What I'd like to try (nothing to lose at this point) is to wire up these four circuits and bring them out to a lab bench power supply and perhaps a resistor to emulate the temperature sense.
Questions:
a) Are my assumptions on +/- voltage connections correct?
b) Does the phone require a completed circuit on the temp sense pair?
c) If so, what is the nominal value of resistance on the temp sense pair?
Thanks to anyone who may have mapped out this part of this board....
Bryan

You are right about the PWR pins - GND is thermally relieved from GND polygon. The other thick track or 'region' should be battery voltage.
Somehow I doubt that both thin tracks are used for temp. sensing, unless it's a differential signal. You can test this with a 2 channel oscilloscope, provided that you have a working battery.
Either way, if temp. sensing won't work, everything else should. Try hooking it up to a power supply. 3.8 to 4 volts shuld do just fine. The thing is that (and you are probably aware of this) electronics don't work well with salt water Especially ones with batteries in it. Chances are that one or more chips are fried, in which case.. well, you get it... Even if chips are fine, the solder joints are most likely corroded, which means that not all pins are electrically connected to the pcb.
If the data is really important to you, you might be able to desolder the nand flash and resolder it on a working motherboard. BUT! I have no idea if this would actually work - just a wild guess. Also, there is always a chance to overheat the chip.
If you're skilled enough with electronics and programming, you could try and look up the datasheet of the nand. From there you could try and figure out how to read raw data off of it. If you do, you might be able to build a device for reading the nand directly and storing the data wherever. Not particularly handy for a one time use, but would make for a fun project ^^