Hi I just wanted to completely brag
Ok I bought a N5 on Ebay with a "broken" PS-(Power-Switch).
I have seen a few way to repair it and thought this could be really doable...
It wasn't what I would name a "good hit" ^^
The phone had already been opened and a very unsuccessful repair had been conducted.
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Ok as you see, damn ^^
SO the solder pads were toasted (only epoxy)
Impossible to get it to work.
I googled (a lot) and found this thread from Rizwan Sayyed
http://www.mobilerdx.com/2015/03/repair-lg-nexus-5-d820-power-button-ways.html
Well, I did it The wire used is 0,35mm winding wire (they are isolated)
I actually have brought a litlle mods on it.
Here a pic:
why is it awesome? ^^ Well, because there is actually only one MB hack, which reduce of 50% the possibility of failure
The left port of the switch has to be connected to the little resistor as explained by Rizwan Sayyed
As soon as the frame of teh switch was still linked to the ground. I just had to solder the right port to the frame of the switch.
IT IZ DONE
That's actually quite simple even if VERY VERY tiny. It took me age to get it correctly welded and I must admit that I thought a bunch of times that it was "dead"
I secured the wire with hot glue (be careful it's tricky)
NOW there is a little draw back to this mod. The aluminum main back cover has a support directly on the ground trace. As soon as you have your hack-wire on the trace. You will have to substantially remove material on the rear cover.
Like this:
THAT'S ALL FOLKS!
Hope it helps some desperate guy somewhere
## Please note that this hack is actually pretty advanced and require MAD SOLDERING SKILLZ. Do it ONLY if you know what you are doing and are LIKE ME very very very good at it ^^## <-- Yes me pretty (and) proud
The Grüß,
H.
PS: Image are huge. "open in a new tab"
Please advice
Hello doodjob, thank you for posting this amazing info. One of the contact points (the one shown here i.e. the one you have connected with wire) is broken on my PCB, while the other is intact. Can you please suggest what I can do? Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
swappykzn said:
Hello doodjob, thank you for posting this amazing info. One of the contact points (the one shown here i.e. the one you have connected with wire) is broken on my PCB, while the other is intact. Can you please suggest what I can do? Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Click to expand...
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didnt see your post mate ^^
its actually not a port but an sms cap. Do you have a picture of how broken is it?
Related
Sorry this is way off topic but i just got a used laptop and the power plug is loose well when i took it apart i saw that some one else had been in here all ready. what im trying to find out is does any one know where i can find out how to repair a solder point when th solder is off the circuit board?.. yes i know how to solder but what the problem is is how do you solder back a power connecting prong when ther isnt any solder on the board at that point.. i allso need to find some skematics for my mother board.. I have been up all night trying find this info out on line and eather google is starting to suck or the old way of looking isnt working. thanks PLEASE HELP ME FIGURE THIS OUT>>> man im tired.
Usually you would bond the broken area back with an epoxy resin, such as araldite, then scrape the resin off of the track and use mod wire to solder between the two points.
Being a power socket though, I would use something thicker than normal mod wire.
thanks,skematics?
any idea on how to find the skematics for a fujistu c2010 lifebook? oh and thank you for your reply.
Can you get a photo of the solder point and an overview of the board or surrounding areas, and also model number of the board.
Normally in my experience, if the solder point has dissolved etc, just trace the path back to either another solder point on the same track, or if that's not feasible, scratch away some of the protective layer covering the desired track and solder a jumper wire directly to that point.
But, problems with this is that if you're talking about a power supply, then you might need some heavy duty wire, and may not have sufficient area to make a secure solder point...
But then again, I solder like a blind watchmaker.
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^^^ - me chipping a PS2
V
[edit - looks like a few of us replied at the same time, hence the multiplicty]
photo no. model number yes
ok i cant get a picture since i dont havea webcam. But the model number i can supply. Its a Fujistu c2010 ad the mother board says earthling2mainboar01. the model numbernow theres to main numbers on the board i can find so im not sure wich one its are.CP142350-z1 and 02801236104 and there is allso big FJ-T and theres a red dot by this, AH,57-xx i hope that helps. if thats not it wherte should it be located? oh and if i can give you a mental picture of the plug its kinda like this..
o -solder point
o
o the bottom one here is the one where the solder came off theboard so when you go to solder it there nothing there.
Hello all
I love my tornado but i have some problems with the joystick ( it become hard to use).
I someone know where buy replacements parts i will be the happiest !
Please help me
PS: sorry for my English ...
Someone already posted such a question and posted back the part number when he found it. Just poke around, it will be in the first couple pages of the forum.
I recommend to use compressed air to blow out any dust &c and maybe use some graphite lubricant (use a hard pencil on a nail file if you simply can't find any, catch it on paper).
Some madman reported using WD40 to good results. I don't recommend that, except as a last of last resorts.
I've tried wd40 and now I have no problems with joy. It works like brand new one
Tanks you for yours answers. I will try WD40 ( I have bottle ).
Also I was incapable to find the part number in the forum. If someone can help me.
I keep you in touch with my WD40 experimentations :d
What is WD40 , i have the same problem with my phone
smae problem
What is WD40 , i have the same problem with my phone
i dont realy now how to open the phone to clean but i dont remember wish thread they posted a lin do anyone no that link
bestsever, check it out. http://smartmania.mobilmania.cz/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4707
for WD40 info look at : http://wd40.com/Brands/wd40.cfm
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I tried today wd40 in my phone whitout open it ( i protected keyboard and screen) and it's better but not perfect. I think i will open it, maybe I will wait to find the OEM part.
Other way ?
I see no problem with opening it to clean out any possible dust or crap.
You can buy cans of compressed air, similar in shape/system to WD40, but only shoot air. This will blow any dust out, but you need under the thumbstick to clean it right.
The cans can be expensive, but think of it as an investment. After you clean out your phone, open your PC case and blow out the power supply and the fans for CPU and video card. Dust collects like crazy...
If you are crazy enough to use WD40 (which I do NOT recommend), do:
ensure tht only your stick is being sprayed
clean with a dust free wipe or swab throughly before reconnecting to the mainboard
Works fine with WD40 without open tornado but keep somes problems
Everything fixed with application of "contact" !
This is a spray that you can buy in electronics or sono shop. It use to restore contact in linear potentiometers.
My Tornado word as at first day !
Hi folks my other half who has a C600 has complained about joystick issues for a while now so I finally did something about it (sick of her complaining about her 'crap phone' - ungrateful #!&@! ), not sure if this is THE issue with the c600 joystick so would be interested in any feedback good or bad.
Basically the joystick became less and less responsive over time so harder presses were necessary to perform actions. Didn't fancy spraying WD40 in my phone (what does this actually do?) and after testing switch operation with my meter all seemed ok.
What I noticed was that the piece of metal holding the joystick is stamped to a lower level than the rest of the metal chassis holding the keyboard. This section is only supported at one end and therefore, every time the joystick is moved a bending action is exerted on this 'sub chassis'. Hopefully this picture might help people understand what I am on about...
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Now I found that by simply bending this piece of metal back up a little bit I restored the joystick to it's former self! No cleaning, NO WD40!
Now just to note I didn't mess around but I suspect the problem might return in time so maybe these phones are missing a bit of support between the joystick chassis and main board? Maybe someone messing about might want to investigate sorting this.
Hope this is useful to someone although I realise it is coming a little late in the C600 lifetime!
I just thought on if I get enough requests I could do a decent photo guide for stripping the C600 and maybe the VOX too.
What I do is clean all the dust out of the rubber piece that's over the joystick in my T-mobile SDA, and then spray the joystick with quick dry electrical cleaner (usually available at your local car parts store).
Hi thecraze, yes being an electronics engineer I am aware of switch cleaner. I realise in my case however this was not the issue, as all switch contacts showed a good low resistance with little effort on the joystick. There was also negligible dust too.
I have also noted that cleaning does not work for everyone, and this may be one of, if not the contributing factor in such cases.
Thanks anyway.
Will I need different shaped screwdrivers or will a regular (small sized) Phillips & or flat head screwdrivers be all I need?
While I was looking for screens on eBay and Amazon I saw some that came with tools. One of the screwdrivers that came with one of the screens looks like a star so now I'm wondering if there are any star shaped screws holding the screen down that'll need a star shaped screwdriver to open it with.
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I hope replacing this screen doesn't end up becoming a huge pain. Will I be okay buying just a screen for $5 or should I pay almost 3 times as much to get the tools?
This is the screen I was originally looking at for $5.55 http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=110787423167
Thanks for your suggestions!
When I got a new flex cable it came with the tools needed. BUT I found that a screwdriver I bought from radio Shack had better fitting tips. I'll try to find a link later today if I can.
Edit: I think what I'm referring to is called; RadioShack® 21-Piece Precision Electronic Driver SetCatalog #: 64-185 *|* Model: 6400185 for $17.49
This should be in Q/A. But that being said. I would spring for the kit that comes with the Tools. Especially if you do not have the correct tools. Yes you are going to need the Star shaped Screwdriver. Not for the Screen itself, but to be able to get to it. Also a few other suggestions. One make sure you watch the Video linked in THIS thread on how to disassemble the Shift. That thread also has pics you should study a bit. Another thing that I cannot stress enough. HAVE A CLEAN WORK AREA TO DO THE REPAIR. It will save you a bunch of headaches. Take your time. Do not try to rush the procedure. Lastly, make sure that the work surface, and you are properly grounded. This will avoid any issues from static discharge. Read, and take your time. It will save you grief later on .
Fellow XDA-Developers Members,
I know this is going to sound like a stupid question, but the only stupid question is the one that isnt answered, right ??!! I have a Samsung Galaxy S2 SCH-R760 that I got from a friend when my previous phone died as a loaner. The only problem is that her kids messed up the charging port, and you have to hold the cord a certain way to charge the phone, and even then, it doesnt always charge correctly (charges for hours and hours overnight and then says it only has 10% power, sometimes fully charges, sometimes doesnt charge at all). Rather than to sit here and mess with it everyday, I looked up the part costs to replace the USB Charging Port, and it is really cheap !! I decided to try and take the phone apart just to familiarize myself with the process, and maybe see if there was a loose connection I could fix myself rather than to be without a phone until the parts got to my rural area on an island in Alaska !! Well, I went on Youtube to find a video to take the phone apart, and all of the videos insist that there are seven (7) screws underneath the battery cover that I have to take our before using a soft plastic prying tool to remove the backing, but it doesnt look the same-there are only six (6) screws, and I cannot find anymore, even underneath these little black film-like strips that are there (I carefully removed them and then replaced them exactly as they were) !! And whats worse, the phone doesnt have a split in the middle of the side of the casing-you have to pry between the edge of the back casing and the screen !! I am at a loss here because right now I dont have the funds to buy a new phone, so can anyone tell me why I cant seem to get it apart (the seven (7) versus six (6) screws issue, and what could possibly be hanging it up; I tried to open it and it seemed like the headphone jack circuit board was hanging it up, but there is no more screws !!), why the video shows seven (7) screws instead of sic (6) on all of the instructional videos and why the phone doesnt split in the middle on the side like all the videos show them doing on the instructional videos illustrate !! I would greatly appreciate any and all help/advice !! Thanks !!
AbsoluteJedi
AbsoluteJedi said:
I would greatly appreciate any and all help/advice !! Thanks !!
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Download a i9100 technician service manual from My Guides and Manuals, link below, and you would get your required details.
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