I have a Navifly cpu uis7862 model M700S with 8-128GB mounted on a 2012 Peugeot 308 eHDI. I wanted to know if anyone knows how to have represented some sort of indication indicating that the machine is doing the regeneration of the FAP. I have no idea and have no experience with programming/electronics. But I think it would be a good thing to have this kind of indication on the monitor of the uis7862. I have already made the change using a pike led strip mounted in the outer mirror, which lights up when the regeneration of the FAP is active. Unfortunately during the day i can not see it, while obviously in the dark i can see immediately. Since I do mostly short routes and mostly during the day I do not know if the strip lights up. And for the above reasons, the regeneration of the FAP is activated quite frequently from day and unfortunately I do not notice it and therefore involuntarily interrupt it by turning off the machine.
So having a flashing written indication, or an "icon" that shows itself during the regeneration of the FAP would be very useful for many users among us who have a diesel car. Or maybe there is already an app for this purpose that I do not know and maybe someone can show it to me
I assume FAP is the Particle filter in your Peugeot? I really had to google for it, which makes your question very specific for your type of car.
If FAP is something else, please explain.
surfer63 said:
I assume FAP is the Particle filter in your Peugeot? I really had to google for it, which makes your question very specific for your type of car.
If FAP is something else, please explain.
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Yes, I am referring to the Particle filter. But not specifically to Peugeot but for all diesel cars that have it of any brand. When the FAP regenerates, the control unit of the machine activates the heating of the external mirrors and turns on the defrosting of the rear window. Taking advantage of this, connecting a LED (or LED strip) to the contacts of the heater of the external mirror (which serves to defrost it) turns on and then you have the indication of the regeneration in progress. For the reasons of the first post of the day
I do not see even changing the color of the led. Hence my post. I think it could serve many users. I realize that it is perhaps a difficult thing to do, but I posed the problem anyway hoping that someone will have a solution. Or maybe someone has already done it
I think FAP is like a DPF or similar. It looks French (filtre à particules).
Anyway, these units can only show info that the canbus sent to the OEM head unit. If your cars canbus does not send that info over the wiring loom that runs to the head unit then there's no way for the FYT unit to show it.
Most cars only show DPF regeneration as a light on the dash console.
This may be something that shows via your cars ODBII port that would be shown in an app like Torque Pro.
j0hn83 said:
I think FAP is like a DPF or similar. It looks French (filtre à particules).
Anyway, these units can only show info that the canbus sent to the OEM head unit. If your cars canbus does not send that info over the wiring loom that runs to the head unit then there's no way for the FYT unit to show it.
Most cars only show DPF regeneration as a light on the dash console.
This may be something that shows via your cars ODBII port that would be shown in an app like Torque Pro.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, you're right. FAP is very similar to DPF. My canbus does not show this indication, on the other hand I did not even have it with the standard radio. Through the Torque app and ODB2 it can be a solution, but my post was written hoping that on our radio we could have a more direct indication.
Using Torque which indicator should I monitor according to you. I don't think there is a specific indicator, maybe I'm wrong. Do you have any ideas?
Specy01 said:
Using Torque which indicator should I monitor according to you. I don't think there is a specific indicator, maybe I'm wrong. Do you have any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not something I have much experience with. I have only connected my Bluetooth ODBII connector a couple of times.
I just know that the ODBII port shows much much more engine/diagnostics info than the 2 canbus wires that connect to our FYT units.
j0hn83 said:
It's not something I have much experience with. I have only connected my Bluetooth ODBII connector a couple of times.
I just know that the ODBII port shows much much more engine/diagnostics info than the 2 canbus wires that connect to our FYT units.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Meanwhile, I read a thread on a forum for peugeot in which they talk about a specific app for the FAP of peugeot that uses the ODB2. Tomorrow I install it and let you know. I could be satisfied but I would prefer if it is possible, to have something directly on the radio as mentioned before.
j0hn83 said:
I just know that the ODBII port shows much much more engine/diagnostics info than the 2 canbus wires that connect to our FYT units.
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Click to collapse
I am aware of that, but I am not interested in much information about it. The only thing that interests me is to have an indication that tells me that the machine is doing the regeneration, nothing more, the other things are a surplus that I think can be of interest from time to time. Thanks for your help
On my Subaru I use OBD2 running through torque pro, I have loaded custom PIDs which show when DPF regen is active, % soot, mi!es since last regen, total regens, % oil dilution etc all on a single screen.
kommando said:
On my Subaru I use OBD2 running through torque pro, I have loaded custom PIDs which show when DPF regen is active, % soot, mi!es since last regen, total regens, % oil dilution etc all on a single screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have Torque installed on the uis7862? Can you put a picture of these indicators please.
Specy01 said:
Do you have Torque installed on the uis7862? Can you put a picture of these indicators please.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes have them on the 7862, I will take a screenshot later.
Tank's you
Snowed in and its too cold to get to the garage. Here is a similar screen to mine.
I’m curious. Why would your heating elements turn on during a dpf regen?
deadeye920 said:
I’m curious. Why would your heating elements turn on during a dpf regen?
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Depends on how the ECU is programmed, some manufacturers have the glow plugs on when a regen is on to increase the initial heatup of the exhaust gases and giving an earlier ignition of the excess fuel, others leave it to just the excess fuel injected after the exhaust valve is opened. If the DPF is very near the engine then it will heat up quickly just from the excess fuel. Jaguar/Land Rover put their DPF too far away and the DPF temps on regen are marginal and there are many issues with their engines and the DPF. Renault/Peugeot inject some chemical called EOLYS into the fuel tank every fill up, when this enters the DPF it lowers the temperature the soot burns off at down from 600C to 400C so passive regens are much more likely. I add this same chemical to my Subaru, I don't get more passive regens as the DPF never exceeds 325C outside a proper regen but the soot is burnt off in half the usual time in a full regen. Eolys is a cerium/iron based solution.
kommando said:
Depends on how the ECU is programmed, some manufacturers have the glow plugs on when a regen is on to increase the initial heatup of the exhaust gases and giving an earlier ignition of the excess fuel, others leave it to just the excess fuel injected after the exhaust valve is opened. If the DPF is very near the engine then it will heat up quickly just from the excess fuel. Jaguar/Land Rover put their DPF too far away and the DPF temps on regen are marginal and there are many issues with their engines and the DPF. Renault/Peugeot inject some chemical called EOLYS into the fuel tank every fill up, when this enters the DPF it lowers the temperature the soot burns off at down from 600C to 400C so passive regens are much more likely. I add this same chemical to my Subaru, I don't get more passive regens as the DPF never exceeds 325C outside a proper regen but the soot is burnt off in half the usual time in a full regen. Eolys is a cerium/iron based solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I get all that but he said the heating elements of his wing mirrors and his rear screen turn on during a dpf regen.
deadeye920 said:
I get all that but he said the heating elements of his wing mirrors and his rear screen turn on during a dpf regen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No idea, Subaru's do not turn heating elements on during active regens.
Googling gets you to
DPF Regeneration active light fitted.
Hi all I hope your all well, Today after reading on the net that some have fitted a warning light to show when the car is in the DPF regeneration mode, I decided to fit one into my drivers side mirror, not sure it will work during dpf regeneration as some say that only the rear heated...
www.peugeotforums.com
Because it needs to be invisible to the user to avoid unnecessary complaints. It's a strategy to increase engine load and therefore DPF temps.
kommando said:
Depends on how the ECU is programmed, some manufacturers have the glow plugs on when a regen is on to increase the initial heatup of the exhaust gases and giving an earlier ignition of the excess fuel, others leave it to just the excess fuel injected after the exhaust valve is opened. If the DPF is very near the engine then it will heat up quickly just from the excess fuel. Jaguar/Land Rover put their DPF too far away and the DPF temps on regen are marginal and there are many issues with their engines and the DPF. Renault/Peugeot inject some chemical called EOLYS into the fuel tank every fill up, when this enters the DPF it lowers the temperature the soot burns off at down from 600C to 400C so passive regens are much more likely. I add this same chemical to my Subaru, I don't get more passive regens as the DPF never exceeds 325C outside a proper regen but the soot is burnt off in half the usual time in a full regen. Eolys is a cerium/iron based solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
deadeye920 said:
I get all that but he said the heating elements of his wing mirrors and his rear screen turn on during a dpf regen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Congratulations @kommando for your precise explanation.
@deadeye920, I won't be so precise, sorry I'm not a mechanic. I can only tell you that when the FAP regenerates the system tries to increase the electrical absorption of the vehicle and does so by activating the defrosting of the exterior mirrors (right and left), the defrosting of the rear window, the engine cooling fan (and maybe even other things that I ignore). This is because to increase the workload of the engine more to heat more the exhaust gases that burn the particulate matter in the FAP (around 450 ° C.
I'm not talking about DPF but maybe FAP is different. This occurs on Peugeot, Citroen and Renault almost certainly, for others Marco I could not tell you
Based on the forum link I added FAP=DPF .
@kommando I like this photo it is very interesting, but this requires that the ODB2 is always connected to the ODB socket. It can be useful and I will try it. I will also try the app "fap lite Citroen/peugeot" and I will let you know, it could be useful to someone
Related
I was sitting here with my phone in my hand connected to USB and went to clear dirt from my monitor. My phone was in my left hand and my right was on the monitor. My hands were a bit damp. When I touched the monitor I heard a LOUD buzzing sound and a spark came from my phone into my hand! Now I have a burn mark in my hand! I AM NOT KIDDING! It felt as bad as being hit by a wall outlet!
AGAIN! IM NOT KIDDING! My heart stopped for a brief moment!
....
Wierd! VERY...
Welcome to static electricity 101
Does the room with the PC in it have carpets?
Ah after the initial shock i have settled down. It seems that the monitor's static discharged into the ground in the usb cable. Electricity will follow the path of least resistance
Thats weird. But at least you have a killer story to tell. I still have mine about the time I got electrocuted from plugging in faulty christmas lights. Great icebreaker.
Dave
iremember the time i tried to fellate a plug socket, honestl how was i to kno it has electricity in it
oh the memories
And this one time, in band camp...
statics should never be able to give you such a big chock
statics only cary a few miliamps for a very short period of time
only up to 100mimiamps across the heart could be a possible
threat to ones life
i would not trust that tv longer then i could throw it
i used to do this a lot when i was a kid,
take 2 fine copper wire (usually from discarded ac to dc adapters)
wrap it around a pencil or pen, remove them from the pen/pencil and open the spirals up slightly. hang on the side of the (dusty)CRT monitor in a + shape. Turn the monitor off and on - voila!!!
Update*
Seems that the house doesn't have a ground. I know certian CRTs have a grounding harness around the screen to reduce static and transmission of rays. It seems with repeated testing the screen is building up a massive amount of static on the screen every 5 minutes when the screen is on. This is without turning the screen on or off. The air in the house is at 87% humidity, 67 degrees F with carpeted floors. The monitor is a old compaq 15" crt.
it seems without proper grounding the monitor is keeping a massive amount of static unchecked. There is also thousands of volts in the monitor and the CRT glass contains massive amounts of lead. Can anyone think that the monitor glass isn't grounded and there is a voltage leak? Hmm..
Its been a week or so and I still have a slight burn mark on my hand. Last time I touched a doorknob i didnt get any scarring
Yea, I bent over a horse fence once, not only did I not see the electric wire above it, it connected with the top of my head! I woke up and could not remember where I was or how I got there! About five min later I could walk agian! Note to self...... Horsefence BAD!!!!!
Good times, good times!
Reminds me of the time I decided to play with my tesla coil after getting out of the shower and standing bare foot in a puddle of water. Didn't think a tesla coil could hurt you. I learned different lol... Or the time I took an electrical socket apart while it was still live "granpa it makes my fingers tingle a bit" ... "shh, I turned it off at the breaker box I swear". "Hmm... lemme lay a screwdriver across the leads..." *FLASH BZZZZZZZZ*
Seriously though, get some grounded plugs!
Ha ha,
Reminded me of when I sold my last house. Part of the moving out process was removing all of my new ceiling fans. In my bedroom I hadn't yet bought the replacement fixture so I left the wires dangling.... BAD IDEA...
Walked into the room and directly under the fixture mount, wires contacted with my head. It was a shocking experience to say the least!
rockerrock said:
Update*
Seems that the house doesn't have a ground. I know certian CRTs have a grounding harness around the screen to reduce static and transmission of rays. It seems with repeated testing the screen is building up a massive amount of static on the screen every 5 minutes when the screen is on. This is without turning the screen on or off. The air in the house is at 87% humidity, 67 degrees F with carpeted floors. The monitor is a old compaq 15" crt.
it seems without proper grounding the monitor is keeping a massive amount of static unchecked. There is also thousands of volts in the monitor and the CRT glass contains massive amounts of lead. Can anyone think that the monitor glass isn't grounded and there is a voltage leak? Hmm..
Its been a week or so and I still have a slight burn mark on my hand. Last time I touched a doorknob i didnt get any scarring
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was my first thought, no ground. Lazy electrician.
Do you live in a place where homeowners can do electrical work themselves? Depending on how your walls are structured it may not be that hard to fix the ground yourself. I boosted a few of my circuits to 20 amps when I got an electric lawn mower, it's not to hard. That was all in the basement though so things were easily accessible.
rockerrock said:
Update*
Seems that the house doesn't have a ground. I know certian CRTs have a grounding harness around the screen to reduce static and transmission of rays. It seems with repeated testing the screen is building up a massive amount of static on the screen every 5 minutes when the screen is on. This is without turning the screen on or off. The air in the house is at 87% humidity, 67 degrees F with carpeted floors. The monitor is a old compaq 15" crt.
it seems without proper grounding the monitor is keeping a massive amount of static unchecked. There is also thousands of volts in the monitor and the CRT glass contains massive amounts of lead. Can anyone think that the monitor glass isn't grounded and there is a voltage leak? Hmm..
Its been a week or so and I still have a slight burn mark on my hand. Last time I touched a doorknob i didnt get any scarring
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You indicated that the humidity level in you house is at 87%..... I don't mean to question your integrity or judgment but a humidity level of 87% is only appropriate in a bathroom after a hot shower or in a heated conservatory/greenhouse. If the humidity in your house is really that high for an extended period of time you are sure to have mold/mildew problems warped furnishings etc.
It may be time for a new hygrometer either that or a new hvac system.
speedy1979 said:
You indicated that the humidity level in you house is at 87%..... I don't mean to question your integrity or judgment but a humidity level of 87% is only appropriate in a bathroom after a hot shower or in a heated conservatory/greenhouse. If the humidity in your house is really that high for an extended period of time you are sure to have mold/mildew problems warped furnishings etc.
It may be time for a new hygrometer either that or a new hvac system.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Gets that humid here sometimes if you open the windows (louisiana). AC usually runs like a river and drains away most of it though.
This is entertaining and all, but the important question is, how did your phone take it?
I once killed the touch screen on a device by going down a tubular plastic kids slide
(So now when I take the kids to the park and they want me to go down the slide, I put the phone down in a safe place)
The first of all, i think the monitor isnt grounded... your monitor is old and you have no carpets...
non of all are good for yourself...
you can look if the grounding of your home is good if yes, buy another monitor... and buy an carpet.....
if no just get your home grounded again!
-----
In an monitor is like 1000 volt... doesnt matter anyway, normally u dont get an shock if your monitor is grounded and is not old
but when an monitor isnt grounded... you can get an shock of like 230 volts on 16ampere....
its the normal voltage and ampere of an electro group in your home i think...
if it was only an statistic screen, it could be on minimal 3000 volts.... but thats anything u almost dont feel.... unless it is under the 2 mili ampere... when its higher you can feel it... and you can die after an little shock of 40+ volts on 100miliampere ...
so i think it was a little shock ... under the 100 mA but it could be like 10000volts...
next time, please use an volt meter
good story btw and hope you'll follow my guide
Don't die!
The house is my parents house. They don't take care of their stuff. I go over one in awhile and yes it seems they have some sort of mold issue because I get bad allergies if I stay over there..
The phone is fine, thankfully the discharge went right into the USB cable, now for the computer, I don't know if that usb port works, I haven't since tested it. The high humidity is attributed to numerous things such as a leaky toilet and while now it is winter and the air is dry, when it is over 40F, humidity frequently reaches 100% here.
I frequently remember working on computers growing up and getting shocked every time I brushed up against the steel case. Dangerous, indeed.
They buy the crappiest air filters for their furnace and smoke as well. I am lucky to be out of there. They won't switch to allergen filters because "they are too expensive" but ask them about changing their motor oil, they don't.
Which brings up this, They had a new SUV and my mother drives a lot, we had it since 2001 and it now sits at 263,000 miles. It has had 2 transmissions put in and a engine (threw rod) all due to improper maintenance. If this is any indication of habits on their behalf, then the house ground is the least of their issues.
I must defend them in some regard, They aren't nasty people, is that they have bent over for the last 20 years and have put work before family. They believe in the system and it has led to a failed family structure but still they remain the same.
Anyways, I do have a proper ground at home and use a nice UPS along with a "box fan filter" which i use a high quality filter taped to the fan. Sure, you can fight about aerodynamics and how this isn't the best way of doing it because the fan can't push air etc etc but it has at least reduced the amount of dust in the air and has made the air crisper. Of course the fan has a thermal switch and fuse so I don't have to worry about fires if it were to overheat. (I use allergen filters for furnaces).
We have 112V, maximum of 60 ampres per line. We have 220 going into the houses here but usually it's split into 112 for outlets and 220 @ 120A for things such as dryers and welders.
in that case, dieing with touching your phone and monitor will be easy indeed...
60ampere is a way tomuch for an normal electric wire in an home...
it has to be 16 because an wire/cable in the wall can be over heated to fast at higher when u use the full amperes....
an cable may be 85 celcius as most... but with 60 ampere you can get 360 celcius, that can but the rubber around the wire and could make fire on wood and on carpets...
be carefull, i shouldn't be happy to live in an dusty home with 360 celcius on wood
and whole not with the thoughts in my mind that i could die with touching ann monitor/tv while its connected to the computer and an phone in my hands whats connected to the same computer......
this because of an stupid electric group of 60!! Ampere....
Well all the outlets are fused to a certain amperage. As in, the normal amount allowed to come put of the socket is 10-15 amps before the magnetic fuse trips. The whole house shares a 60 amp line from the box and certain appliances can get up to and beyond 60 amps at 220V,
I may mention that the "official" output in the US is 110V but I regularly see 112 coming out of my outlets. Matter in fact, I see 80-160V coming out from time to time from "dirty' power, thanks to UPS's I don't have to worry about random crashes and it kicks on quite a bit.
UPDATE 5/26/2011: I have put together a tutorial and will keep it updated. It can be found at this link. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=14111386&postcount=207 The project is not fully completed but working! Keep following us as we progress through this thread.
Ok, I’ve been digging around recently and have been getting nowhere. From a bunch of emails and PM’s that took me a long time to write, I have gotten nothing back. So I am starting a new thread here.
I am in the process of finding info on the internal GPS module that the G-Pad is capable of having installed. I am willing to use my tablet as a demo to see if I can get it working! If it works, I will make a detailed thread on how to go about installing a GPS module into the G-Tablet. So speak up if you know your electronics please!!!
What I have compiled so far
A member from XDA forums literally bought a kit (eBay Post) that enabled GPS use. He posted that the chip that he installed was a RXM-GPS-SG-B found at this link (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&KeyWords=RXM-GPS-SG-B&x=0&y=0). After looking at the data sheet for this chip I’m pretty sure that this chip will work on the G-tablet board. All of the pins line up properly and everything. In the XDA post that I read, after the install of the chip he posted “I now have power to the chip and its working. When I click on the place app now it no longer just says wait but comes up with aps where to go.” This is a good sign in that it is already enabled in the VS bootloader kernel. Basically if you can get it soldered in and enabled it should work. The problem is that he claimed that pin 12 (vcc) did not have power and he had to power it from another source. He claimed that he tapped into the USB +5v power. That would have worked ok if the GPS chip needed 5v power. The chip itself needs 3.3v of power. This user was overvolting his GPS chip from the get-go. He had reported some issues with it and I think that this overvolting was part of the problem.
Here is a picture of the installed chip via the XDA forums. Sorry for the smallness it was as big as I could find. http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=585865&stc=1&d=1304460793
My theory is that you can tap into the 3.3v pin that is located on the mini PCI e headers and use this for power. This will provide the correct voltage. Here is a picture of the empty spots on the board. http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=585866&d=1304460792
As you can see in the picture above there is an “empty” power circuit located below where the GPS chip would reside. I read a post on XDA that claimed that if properly hooked up correctly it would probably produce the 3.3v output needed for the GPS chip also. The items that the user claimed could possible make it work were as follows.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=NCP51460SN33T1GOSCT-ND Part# NCP51460SN33T1G
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=NCP551SN33T1GOSCT-ND Part# NCP551SN33T1G
I do not have enough knowledge about IC’s to know how these are used. If anyone has an idea let me know. They go in the power circuit somehow.
The next part is the antenna connector. This would get installed in the empty “ANT2” connector. This should be an easy mount and is exactly how “ANT1” the wifi antenna is connected. http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=585863&d=1304460740
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=H9161CT-ND Part# U.FL-R-SMT(10)
Finally onto the antenna itself. Although I have read that a passive antenna can be hooked up to this chip, an active antenna seems like it would get much better reception. The antenna that I have read a lot about is the following.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/D...&lang=en&site=us&keywords=931-1014-ND&x=0&y=0 Part# ALA.01.07.0095A
This antenna would literally just snap onto the antenna 2 connector and it should work. Now to run an active antenna the GPS data sheet says that a 300ohm ferrite bead needs to be installed. This is the part where the member at XDA also messed up. He wired an antenna with a 300ohm resistor thinking it worked the same as a ferrite bead. A ferrite bead basically reduces any interference coming from the antenna going to the chip. Here is a link to the proper ferrite bead.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=445-6406-1-ND Part# MMZ1608D220C
The ferrite bead is also where I have run into problems. I do not know how to properly install one of these and I have no idea if there is even a spot on the board to do so. Any help in this area would also be appreciated. http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=585873&stc=1&d=1304461146
The antenna should be able to fit in the plastic up at the top of the case while also providing ample reception.
After all of this is installed hopefully the GPS chip will work. Although this sounds like a complicated project there is not actually that much soldering to do. The main GPS chip is actually most of the soldering. I am hoping that someone reads and appreciates that work that I have compiled/done so far. Any help on this project would be greatly appreciated. Also please do not post “why don’t you just use an external Bluetooth module.” I get that these work great, but I just want to see if the internal GPS will function. Attached below is everything I could possibly obtain after browsing through the entire internet looking for any type of documentation on this project Thanks for taking time to read through this post.
Last Thoughts
Here is a more in depth picture that shows the GPS connection and GPS schematic from the datasheet. It is very helpful. http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=585868&d=1304460792
I posted datasheets as attachments for the GPS Module and the Antenna I hope this helps out. http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=585875&stc=1&d=1304461367
Here is the entire system board for those who need a complete picture. http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=585867&d=1304460792
References
Thanks to the following people from XDA
mystkrh
6.055chevy
vsc
also to anyone I missed sorry
I will not be much help here, but I applaud your efforts.
I hope someone fills in the rest of the picture... I would love to do this to my G-Tab.
Great post Fosser2!
I too would like to have an internal GPS solution. I have a little electronics experience and I'm willing to go down this road as well.
For the ferrite bead, it looks like it gets soldered in at the L1 pad on the board.
All the other parts you listed look like they'll fit. The 3.3v chips you listed are just regulators. They "regulate" how much voltage goes through them. You feed them 5v (or whatever) and they spit out 3.3v.
What I'm wondering next is what about all the capacitors that are missing (all the C### labels on the board). Those regulators need some and the GPS chip itself looks like it needs some as well. I'll download the data-sheets and dig through those.
Hopefully others will chime in as well.
-John
twistedrotors said:
Great post Fosser2!
I too would like to have an internal GPS solution. I have a little electronics experience and I'm willing to go down this road as well.
For the ferrite bead, it looks like it gets soldered in at the L1 pad on the board.
All the other parts you listed look like they'll fit. The 3.3v chips you listed are just regulators. They "regulate" how much voltage goes through them. You feed them 5v (or whatever) and they spit out 3.3v.
What I'm wondering next is what about all the capacitors that are missing (all the C### labels on the board). Those regulators need some and the GPS chip itself looks like it needs some as well. I'll download the data-sheets and dig through those.
Hopefully others will chime in as well.
-John
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well honestly I'm not sure about all the C#### labels. I think when I order the parts (Thursday) I will only be ordering the GPS, Antenna, the ferrite bead and the antenna connector. I will be using that 3.3v from the mini PCI e header and pray it works. (hopefully bypassing the need for "regulators.") I'm just hoping that it will be detected software side. I guess time will tell But for all others keep posting on this topic because your expertise is greatly helpful.
Another alternative is looking into the Ericson 3307G which the Zpad, uses for GPS. (Gps version)
The 3307G has GPS and 3G, though it is a mPCIE card, so u need to put one of those on the board.
It may be easier though as you can modify the zpad roms for the gtab.
roguey said:
Another alternative is looking into the Ericson 3307G which the Zpad, uses for GPS. (Gps version)
The 3307G has GPS and 3G, though it is a mPCIE card, so u need to put one of those on the board.
It may be easier though as you can modify the zpad roms for the gtab.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For right now, I'm going to roll with the actual gps chip. I did put some though into installing the mPCIE slot but I'm hoping that the GPS is more just dropping in and hoping it works. The mPCIE slot seems like it would be tough to get working software side, but thats just my 2cents.
well apparently pershoot's kernel supports it (3g version anyway), its just the rom that needs the modifying.
Remember the Zpad and Gtab are basiclly the same thing, main thing missing from the Gtab is the pcie and Antenna.
Looks like a great project. I'll be following your progress.
I wanted to mention that the ferrite bead in your link is 22 olms not 300 you list in your post.
dhanifin said:
Looks like a great project. I'll be following your progress.
I wanted to mention that the ferrite bead in your link is 22 olms not 300 you list in your post.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good call on that one. Here is what the data sheet specifically says about the ferrite bead.
Code:
"A 300 ohm ferrite bead should be used to connect this line to the
RFIN line. This bead will prevent the RF from getting into the power supply, but
will allow the DC voltage onto the RF trace to feed into the antenna. A series
capacitor inside the module prevents this DC voltage from affecting the bias on
the module’s internal LNA.
Maintaining a 50 ohm path between the module and antenna is critical. Errors in
layout can significantly impact the module’s performance. Please review the
layout guidelines elsewhere in this guide carefully to become more familiar with
these considerations."
If you can do me a favor and try to find the proper ferrite bead to meet these specifications that would be great. I'll keep looking on my end.
The other reason that I had this ferrite bead was the user "vsc" recommended it in this post. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=12242377&postcount=54
Here is what he said:
Code:
2) The GPS receiver datasheet says for the ferrite bead, 300 ohms at 100 MHz. But every bead that meets that specification that I found also doesn't have good isolation at ~1.5 GHz (GPS band). As such I picked a different bead based upon my "good" judgement which will provide isolation between the antenna and LNA supply.
It looks like you are serious about this - but - are you PCB hardware and software engineer? After all the hardware prototype, you have to make the BIOS recognize and get the driver for this motherboard..etc...ouches - lots of work...
Unless you are into this to make the business on it - I would say "waste of time" (sorry - if offended to you). And I assum this could be your hobby to play around with electronic, pcb..etc...but if you are very good at EE/EEE and assembly language, Java - you are welcome to try on this
good luck!
fosser2 said:
The ferrite bead is also where I have run into problems. I do not know how to properly install one of these and I have no idea if there is even a spot on the board to do so. Any help in this area would also be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The ferrite bead would be soldered onto the PCB at L11 (upper left on the first picture). It goes between pin 17 of the chip and the antenna connector.
rcjpth said:
It looks like you are serious about this - but - are you PCB hardware and software engineer? After all the hardware prototype, you have to make the BIOS recognize and get the driver for this motherboard..etc...ouches - lots of work...
Unless you are into this to make the business on it - I would say "waste of time" (sorry - if offended to you). And I assum this could be your hobby to play around with electronic, pcb..etc...but if you are very good at EE/EEE and assembly language, Java - you are welcome to try on this
good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Currently I'm like 85% sure that the GPS support is built directly into the software. I have been directly talking to roebeet. He said that in his newest firmware "brilliant corners" that he deleted a script that checked to see if there was a gps chip installed and then enabled/disabled it accordingly.
Code:
With my Brilliant Corners update, I actually noticed a script that gets run and changes the library file, depending on the GPS installed.
So well I am still unsure about a number of things, I'm going to press my luck and continue with the project I will be ordering the parts tomm.
Here is a 300 Ohm ferrite bead that should work. It's the same package size as the original 22 Ohm one that was posted.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=445-2171-1-ND
-John
twistedrotors said:
Here is a 300 Ohm ferrite bead that should work. It's the same package size as the original 22 Ohm one that was posted.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=445-2171-1-ND
-John
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice job on that find. I'll most likely be using this one in the build.
fosser2 said:
Ok, I’ve been digging around recently and have been getting nowhere. From a bunch of emails and PM’s that took me a long time to write, I have gotten nothing back. So I am starting a new thread here.
I am in the process of finding info on the internal GPS module that the G-Pad is capable of having installed. I am willing to use my tablet as a demo to see if I can get it working! If it works, I will make a detailed thread on how to go about installing a GPS module into the G-Tablet. So speak up if you know your electronics please!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking at the pictures, you reference U39. This looks like a BGA IC which is going to be a real PIA to solder, if possible at all. Normally, BGAs are placed on the solder paste with +/- 1mil tolerance using a pick and place machine, then baked with all of the other SMT parts with the board. And even then you get fallout from the BGA shifting during reflow and needs to be x-rayed for voids and shorts. i can only cringe at the prospect of doing this by hand, but i've seen it done before.
In our case, the board is already populated and the only way to solder on the BGA would be find a heat source with a isolated stream (read no generic heat guns) and a crap load of kapton tape to insulate and hold the other SMT parts around U39 down.
Furthermore, the GPS module IC also comes in a QFN package which is also a PIA to solder. Granted, its not a BGA and has no pins directly under the IC but it will take a skilled technician with a industrial grade soldering iron with temperature control.
I'm in no way trying to shoot this idea down. It certainly is do-able but it is a true project with no guaranteed outcome (parts soldered down correctly = GPS will work). I certainly would entertain trying this out and this gives me the perfect excuse to pry open my 2 wk old gtab. i have all of the necessary tools available at my company to do this properly and if its a matter of simply soldering down these parts to see what happens, i can do this.
let me do a little more research on the GPS module. hopefully, the viewsonic design engineers used a reference design straight from linx so we can figure out at least the GPS module schematics so we can understand what needs to be soldered where etc (and find out what U39 is - it says its a uP for micro processor but in our case it might be a serial NMEA converter).
stay tuned. from a practical risk vs reward scenario this isn't worth the time/effort. thankfully, i enjoy doing stuff like this and its the process that i enjoy, the outcome is simply icing on the cake.
sorry for the long post.
dzasta said:
Looking at the pictures, you reference U39. This looks like a BGA IC which is going to be a real PIA to solder, if possible at all. Normally, BGAs are placed on the solder paste with +/- 1mil tolerance using a pick and place machine, then baked with all of the other SMT parts with the board. And even then you get fallout from the BGA shifting during reflow and needs to be x-rayed for voids and shorts. i can only cringe at the prospect of doing this by hand, but i've seen it done before.
In our case, the board is already populated and the only way to solder on the BGA would be find a heat source with a isolated stream (read no generic heat guns) and a crap load of kapton tape to insulate and hold the other SMT parts around U39 down.
Furthermore, the GPS module IC also comes in a QFN package which is also a PIA to solder. Granted, its not a BGA and has no pins directly under the IC but it will take a skilled technician with a industrial grade soldering iron with temperature control.
I'm in no way trying to shoot this idea down. It certainly is do-able but it is a true project with no guaranteed outcome (parts soldered down correctly = GPS will work). I certainly would entertain trying this out and this gives me the perfect excuse to pry open my 2 wk old gtab. i have all of the necessary tools available at my company to do this properly and if its a matter of simply soldering down these parts to see what happens, i can do this.
let me do a little more research on the GPS module. hopefully, the viewsonic design engineers used a reference design straight from linx so we can figure out at least the GPS module schematics so we can understand what needs to be soldered where etc (and find out what U39 is - it says its a uP for micro processor but in our case it might be a serial NMEA converter).
stay tuned. from a practical risk vs reward scenario this isn't worth the time/effort. thankfully, i enjoy doing stuff like this and its the process that i enjoy, the outcome is simply icing on the cake.
sorry for the long post.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dang, I guess I didn't think much about what the U39 part was. I sure hope that its not the NEMA serial converter. That would blow the whole project. Let me know if you find any schematics for this part. Either way, the project is still happening Let me know what else you find. Your help is appreciated.
fosser2 said:
Dang, I guess I didn't think much about what the U39 part was. I sure hope that its not the NEMA serial converter. That would blow the whole project. Either way, its still happening Let me know what else you find. Your help is appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure why U39 was referenced. Were the GPS serial port pins, TXA (pin 4) and RXA (pin 5), traced to that location? Or was the original author of that diagram guessing about U39?
The GPS module spits out NMEA sentences on TXA in a "serial" format. IMO, I don't know why there would be a need for any sort of hardware converter.
I am concerned about the software side though. By default the GPS module outputs NMEA commands at 9,600bps, 8 data bits, no parity, and 1 stop bit. If the micro isn't setup to accept the messages at that rate then we will have an issue. There is a command to change the serial port settings but I guess we can cross that bridge if we come to it.
-John
Edit: Here's a link to the GPS modules datasheet directly from the Linx website. http://www.linxtechnologies.com/resources/data-guides/rxm-gps-sg.pdf The link provided on Digikeys site doesn't seem to work.
Warranty voided!
So I cracked open my Gtab because I wanted to see if there was power on the voltage regulator pads of the GPS power section. And there is! U29 has 4.94vdc on it's input pin and U22 has 3.29vdc. What's interesting is that these voltages are present even when the tablet is powered off.
U22 is the power supply that is tied to the GPS's backup battery supply pin. For U22 to always have power makes sense, it's providing the power that the GPS needs in order to keep it's memory and RTC going. This allows for faster Time to First Fix, according to the datasheet.
But U29 provides the main VCC supply voltage to the module on pin 12. If it's always on, then the module will always be powered up. I wonder what that will do to battery life. The module is designed to operate automatically in different power saving modes so the difference in battery life may be negligible.
-John
Edit: Next, I want to figure out what capacitors are needed for the regulators.
twistedrotors said:
Warranty voided!
So I cracked open my Gtab because I wanted to see if there was power on the voltage regulator pads of the GPS power section. And there is! U29 has 4.94vdc on it's input pin and U22 has 3.29vdc. What's interesting is that these voltages are present even when the tablet is powered off.
U22 is the power supply that is tied to the GPS's backup battery supply pin. For U22 to always have power makes sense, it's providing the power that the GPS needs in order to keep it's memory and RTC going. This allows for faster Time to First Fix, according to the datasheet.
But U29 provides the main VCC supply voltage to the module on pin 12. If it's always on, then the module will always be powered up. I wonder what that will do to battery life. The module is designed to operate automatically in different power saving modes so the difference in battery life may be negligible.
-John
Edit: Next, I want to figure out what capacitors are needed for the regulators.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Holy crap! this is some serious progress. I was not expecting this right now I'm really happy that there is power right beneath the gps but the thing that I am concerned about I guess is, is it worthwhile to try to rebuild the power supply circuit, or just run 3.3v from the mini PCI e. I guess I'm down for rebuilding the circuit because its the way it was initially intended to work.
fosser2 said:
Currently I'm like 85% sure that the GPS support is built directly into the software. I have been directly talking to roebeet. He said that in his newest firmware "brilliant corners" that he deleted a script that checked to see if there was a gps chip installed and then enabled/disabled it accordingly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
According to the TnT v1.1 kernel patch file from Viewsonic, enabling and disabling the GPS module (the comment in the driver mentions it is for a "MALATA_SMBA1102") is all that the kernel driver does. No code to anything beyond that. Are there any data lines connected from the GPS and where do they go on the gTablet board. Is it connected to an internal SDIO bus?--You can get GPS data that way.
I'm going on a backpacking trip, and I would like to bring my phone to use in the car on the trip there and back (it's something like 5 hours each way, so I would like to have something to do in the car).
I would like to leave my phone in the car during the actual trip (2 days). I know that heat can be bad for a phone, but would leaving my phone in the car be a bad idea? What's the best location for it? Trunk, glove compartment, under a seat?
The high for each day is listed as 80F, low of 50-60F, and the car most likely will be parked in at least partial shade.
Does anyone have experience with this / any recommendations?
Depends on how hot your car actually gets, which will depend on how much shade you're actually talking about. It's not just a matter of the electronics, it can also be the possibility of adhesives in the phone softening if the heat is too high. If possible I'd just find somewhere safe to keep it in your gear and take it with you.
Oh man, 80 degrees in the shade is nothing, well at least not to me since it gets up to over 100 here. Putting it in the trunk will keep it cooler because it won't be exposed to any sunlight.
Yeah, keeping it out of direct sunlight is key. I kept an old iPhone 3G in my car at all times (played music off it) in North Carolina, even in the mid-90 degree summers, and have never had any issues with it aside from the screen perhaps getting a little washed out. I would just stick it in the glove compartment on particularly hot days.
xur17 said:
I'm going on a backpacking trip, and I would like to bring my phone to use in the car on the trip there and back (it's something like 5 hours each way, so I would like to have something to do in the car).
I would like to leave my phone in the car during the actual trip (2 days). I know that heat can be bad for a phone, but would leaving my phone in the car be a bad idea? What's the best location for it? Trunk, glove compartment, under a seat?
The high for each day is listed as 80F, low of 50-60F, and the car most likely will be parked in at least partial shade.
Does anyone have experience with this / any recommendations?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ya' know what. Two years ago had same experience. Have Galaxy Ace and kept it in the box for accesories (in front of front passengers legs) and everthing went well. Hope helped you. Sry for bad english
754boy said:
Oh man, 80 degrees in the shade is nothing, well at least not to me since it gets up to over 100 here. Putting it in the trunk will keep it cooler because it won't be exposed to any sunlight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've actually read reports that the trunk can get just as hot or close to the same temp as the inside of the car. on a 95 Deg day it could be 120 in the trunk :/
Turn it off when you leave it in the car.
Sent from a digital distance.
yeah at least turn it off, because the battery will live longer though
Sorry I never responded sooner.
I just got back from the trip, and everything worked out great. I left the phone in the trunk of the car, parked in the shade, and there were no problems when I got back. This is at least partially due to the shade and the cool-ish weather.
I was wondering if there is a way to put my tf700 tablet in hibernation mode so I can basically completely turn the tablet off or hibernate it with minimal battery and electronic usage and then quickly boot it up again? my question is similar to the thread linked below. I have a custom carrying case for my tablet and although it works really well, it holds my tablet right on top of my spine which I can only imagine how the emf is affecting my nervous system in that area. I would like to be able to minimze emf on my tablet when im holding it on my back without having to turn it completely off because it takes forever to turn on. please let me know if you guys know of an app or way to do this
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1980752
spidasense said:
I was wondering if there is a way to put my tf700 tablet in hibernation mode so I can basically completely turn the tablet off or hibernate it with minimal battery and electronic usage and then quickly boot it up again? my question is similar to the thread linked below. I have a custom carrying case for my tablet and although it works really well, it holds my tablet right on top of my spine which I can only imagine how the emf is affecting my nervous system in that area. I would like to be able to minimze emf on my tablet when im holding it on my back without having to turn it completely off because it takes forever to turn on. please let me know if you guys know of an app or way to do this
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1980752
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Set wifi off when the tablet goes into screen off low power.
Turn GPS off too.
Thats OK said:
Set wifi off when the tablet goes into screen off low power.
Turn GPS off too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the suggestion. would anyone with a geiger counter maybe check the emf coming off of a tf700 with wifi off, gps off, basically everything off except the actual device? that would be awesome. im pretty paranoid when it comes to emf ha
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/technology-alternatives-cellsensor-emf-detection-meter-7021.html
Well if your located in the US the meters are cheap like the one above.
I have a microwave oven RF leakage meter from a former job that I got for around 10 bucks.
Or you could put RF shielding foil in your backpack if your really serious about this.
spidasense said:
anyone with a geiger counter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think that turning wifi off changes the level of radioactivity of the TF700.
_that said:
I don't think that turning wifi off changes the level of radioactivity of the TF700.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt anything changes the level of radioactivity! It's clearly not radioactive. A geiger counter will just register background radiation.....
Anyway - once the tab is sleeping it is doing that unless something wakes it. After a period of time it will go into a deep sleep.
Today's devices hardly emit anything dangerous.
Just walking outside bombards us with emissions from so many sources.
Stay away from airports, cell towers, wifi routers, police\fire vehicles, plasma tvs, microwave ovens, nuclear power plants, other people on mobile phones...
Time for the tinfoil hats and breastplating
sbdags said:
I doubt anything changes the level of radioactivity! It's clearly not radioactive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do you know?
But a geiger counter would be a nice addition to the built-in sensors - measure motion, light, magnetism, and now also *radiation* with your mobile device! Maybe a new product idea for eastern Japan... :cyclops:
_that said:
How do you know?
But a geiger counter would be a nice addition to the built-in sensors - measure motion, light, magnetism, and now also *radiation* with your mobile device! Maybe a new product idea for eastern Japan... :cyclops:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do I know? It's obvious. Well I majored in physics but other than that background it doesn't contain any radioactive materials..... All substances emit some degree of radioactivity but not at the levels that are in any way dangerous.
Funnily enough when I was in Japan last month they now sell add on geiger counters for iphones.... Didn't see any for androids though
I have done a quick look up on 'bioenergetics' which is what the op is concerned about. It is a philosophy not a science and I do not believe he needs to be concerned with how the transformer handles electro magnetic field radiation if he turns off all radios and puts the device to sleep with auto sync turned off as it will enter a deep sleep soon enough.
I also think he is blasted with more emf radiation daily just being alive and can't avoid it. My advice is buy a gauss meter, take some readings and come back with actual facts to support your theory.
He has also confused radiation with radioactivity. You don't heed a geiger counter you need a gauss meter.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.rootuninstaller.batrsaver
found what i waslooking for
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using Tapatalk 2
Hi,
Anybody have MTCE head unit installed in Honda Accord VII? Which "MTCE Version"?
Many users have problem with rear window defogger (defroster, heater) at least with MTCE_KLD .
Can anybody confirm there are no problems with their head unit?
Green LED state
maxbfg said:
Hi,
Anybody have MTCE head unit installed in Honda Accord VII? Which "MTCE Version"?
Many users have problem with rear window defogger (defroster, heater) at least with MTCE_KLD .
Can anybody confirm there are no problems with their head unit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The green LED in the center of the button changes its states or not ? That is to say, the issue is only related to the defroster or also related to the LED state ?
I have an MTCE unit in my CL9. All climate control things work fine.
MTCE_HF_V3.07_1
brettf said:
I have an MTCE unit in my CL9. All climate control things work fine.
MTCE_HF_V3.07_1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. What is the minimum temperature setpoint? In my head unit it is 19° C
2. Does outside temperature on the odometer shows 28° C all the time ?
3. The air conditioning system works much worse than the original Japanese in AUTO mode. In winter, at 21 ° C, the Japanese control opens the flaps fully and closes them slowly, as the engine warms up (the hot air blow from the beginning), the Chinese head unit does not blow at all for some time after the start (waiting for heating up the engine, but it is only a time delay), as a result, after a time delay it begins to blow with a cold air assuming that the engine is already warm. In other words, the Chinese radio in the winter sets the flaps to some opening degree only on the basis of difference between the temperature inside of the car and the demand temperature, independent of the temperature of the engine cooling liquid. In summer, the air conditioning in AUTO mode blows all the time on the feet, on the Japanese head unit it blows to the feet and face. Does it work similar with yours Seicane?
maxbfg said:
1. What is the minimum temperature setpoint? In my head unit it is 19° C
2. Does outside temperature on the odometer shows 28° C all the time ?
3. The air conditioning system works much worse than the original Japanese in AUTO mode. In winter, at 21 ° C, the Japanese control opens the flaps fully and closes them slowly, as the engine warms up (the hot air blow from the beginning), the Chinese head unit does not blow at all for some time after the start (waiting for heating up the engine, but it is only a time delay), as a result, after a time delay it begins to blow with a cold air assuming that the engine is already warm. In other words, the Chinese radio in the winter sets the flaps to some opening degree only on the basis of difference between the temperature inside of the car and the demand temperature, independent of the temperature of the engine cooling liquid. In summer, the air conditioning in AUTO mode blows all the time on the feet, on the Japanese head unit it blows to the feet and face. Does it work similar with yours Seicane?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, so after using it for some time I have noticed a couple things.
1. Minimum Temp is "LO" which is 1 below 19 C. (Which was the same as my stock radio)
2. Outside Temp on my Odometer no longer shows AT ALL. It shows correctly on the MTCE display though.
3. I haven't tested all those scenarios, but I have tested the heater in winter, and it takes very long to get up to temperature even though the car is already warm. Previously, if the car was warm, hot air would blow straight away.
brettf said:
I have an MTCE unit in my CL9. All climate control things work fine.
MTCE_HF_V3.07_1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have same issues with climate control as described in this thread. My MCU version is MTCE_HF_V2.96_1.
HF manufacturer is not listed in any of XDA threads or wiki. Does anybody know of compatible manufacturer ? Or maybe a link to a MCU upgrade ?
maxbfg said:
Hi,
Anybody have MTCE head unit installed in Honda Accord VII? Which "MTCE Version"?
Many users have problem with rear window defogger (defroster, heater) at least with MTCE_KLD .
Can anybody confirm there are no problems with their head unit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dunno what MTC(B,D,E etc) actually means (someone please enlighten me?) but I installed a no-name Chinese Xeowyn unit ex AliExpress in my 7th Gen Honda Accord (non Euro) a couple of years back, about AUD 405 delivered.
Came with Android 6.0, quad core, 1GB RAM, 10.1" screen and all the accessories. GPS, front/rear cameras, BT, WiFi, SWC, OBDII, 2xUSB in. Installed by self very neatly after finding a vid on Youtube which showed the same unit (different brand) being installed in the same car, 2003 model. Everything works well except I couldn't get the OBDII happening, no biggie. All climate controls/air flows/demisters work.. Internet is a bit slow, even when connected by hotspot to my S10e. I'm guessing the bottleneck here is the BT or the low RAM by today's standards of 1GB, but it is usable unless ya try to watch a Youtube HD vid on the fly. Couldn't get BT to connect for internet, but BT for phone connection for making/receiving calls with audio through speakers work very well with good reports from the person at the other end of a call.
Would love to know if it's possible to upgrade to more recent Android version but even if it is, it may be beyond my tech capability, and I don't wanna brick it.
Found a Seicane unit for AUD 415 (can't post links yet, check it out for yourself) on AliExpress with octacore, 4GB RAM, Android Pie... very tempted!
Hi here,
I'm a Honda Accord owner (CM02). Chinese Unit with A/C controls is far away the original equipment about temperature & air distribution. In add, I red some very bad feedbacks on A/C compressor management, running it continously and destroying it after fews month because A/C circuit pressure is too high... That's why I recommand to keep A/C controler.
I've started to work on my Android unit installation, I'll connect it on CD charger input of the original stereo.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=79971177&postcount=295
IloveJapan said:
Hi here,
I'm a Honda Accord owner (CM02). Chinese Unit with A/C controls is far away the original equipment about temperature & air distribution. In add, I red some very bad feedbacks on A/C compressor management, running it continously and destroying it after fews month because A/C circuit pressure is too high... That's why I recommand to keep A/C controler.
I've started to work on my Android unit installation, I'll connect it on CD charger input of the original stereo.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=79971177&postcount=295
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This solution is far away from "comfortable", I used to have a mobile phone located in this place (inside "cd box") for a couple of months. In my opinion it is dangerous to keep your eyes off the road and keep your eyes down there, the display should be located in the place where original display is located.