I was sitting here with my phone in my hand connected to USB and went to clear dirt from my monitor. My phone was in my left hand and my right was on the monitor. My hands were a bit damp. When I touched the monitor I heard a LOUD buzzing sound and a spark came from my phone into my hand! Now I have a burn mark in my hand! I AM NOT KIDDING! It felt as bad as being hit by a wall outlet!
AGAIN! IM NOT KIDDING! My heart stopped for a brief moment!
....
Wierd! VERY...
Welcome to static electricity 101
Does the room with the PC in it have carpets?
Ah after the initial shock i have settled down. It seems that the monitor's static discharged into the ground in the usb cable. Electricity will follow the path of least resistance
Thats weird. But at least you have a killer story to tell. I still have mine about the time I got electrocuted from plugging in faulty christmas lights. Great icebreaker.
Dave
iremember the time i tried to fellate a plug socket, honestl how was i to kno it has electricity in it
oh the memories
And this one time, in band camp...
statics should never be able to give you such a big chock
statics only cary a few miliamps for a very short period of time
only up to 100mimiamps across the heart could be a possible
threat to ones life
i would not trust that tv longer then i could throw it
i used to do this a lot when i was a kid,
take 2 fine copper wire (usually from discarded ac to dc adapters)
wrap it around a pencil or pen, remove them from the pen/pencil and open the spirals up slightly. hang on the side of the (dusty)CRT monitor in a + shape. Turn the monitor off and on - voila!!!
Update*
Seems that the house doesn't have a ground. I know certian CRTs have a grounding harness around the screen to reduce static and transmission of rays. It seems with repeated testing the screen is building up a massive amount of static on the screen every 5 minutes when the screen is on. This is without turning the screen on or off. The air in the house is at 87% humidity, 67 degrees F with carpeted floors. The monitor is a old compaq 15" crt.
it seems without proper grounding the monitor is keeping a massive amount of static unchecked. There is also thousands of volts in the monitor and the CRT glass contains massive amounts of lead. Can anyone think that the monitor glass isn't grounded and there is a voltage leak? Hmm..
Its been a week or so and I still have a slight burn mark on my hand. Last time I touched a doorknob i didnt get any scarring
Yea, I bent over a horse fence once, not only did I not see the electric wire above it, it connected with the top of my head! I woke up and could not remember where I was or how I got there! About five min later I could walk agian! Note to self...... Horsefence BAD!!!!!
Good times, good times!
Reminds me of the time I decided to play with my tesla coil after getting out of the shower and standing bare foot in a puddle of water. Didn't think a tesla coil could hurt you. I learned different lol... Or the time I took an electrical socket apart while it was still live "granpa it makes my fingers tingle a bit" ... "shh, I turned it off at the breaker box I swear". "Hmm... lemme lay a screwdriver across the leads..." *FLASH BZZZZZZZZ*
Seriously though, get some grounded plugs!
Ha ha,
Reminded me of when I sold my last house. Part of the moving out process was removing all of my new ceiling fans. In my bedroom I hadn't yet bought the replacement fixture so I left the wires dangling.... BAD IDEA...
Walked into the room and directly under the fixture mount, wires contacted with my head. It was a shocking experience to say the least!
rockerrock said:
Update*
Seems that the house doesn't have a ground. I know certian CRTs have a grounding harness around the screen to reduce static and transmission of rays. It seems with repeated testing the screen is building up a massive amount of static on the screen every 5 minutes when the screen is on. This is without turning the screen on or off. The air in the house is at 87% humidity, 67 degrees F with carpeted floors. The monitor is a old compaq 15" crt.
it seems without proper grounding the monitor is keeping a massive amount of static unchecked. There is also thousands of volts in the monitor and the CRT glass contains massive amounts of lead. Can anyone think that the monitor glass isn't grounded and there is a voltage leak? Hmm..
Its been a week or so and I still have a slight burn mark on my hand. Last time I touched a doorknob i didnt get any scarring
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was my first thought, no ground. Lazy electrician.
Do you live in a place where homeowners can do electrical work themselves? Depending on how your walls are structured it may not be that hard to fix the ground yourself. I boosted a few of my circuits to 20 amps when I got an electric lawn mower, it's not to hard. That was all in the basement though so things were easily accessible.
rockerrock said:
Update*
Seems that the house doesn't have a ground. I know certian CRTs have a grounding harness around the screen to reduce static and transmission of rays. It seems with repeated testing the screen is building up a massive amount of static on the screen every 5 minutes when the screen is on. This is without turning the screen on or off. The air in the house is at 87% humidity, 67 degrees F with carpeted floors. The monitor is a old compaq 15" crt.
it seems without proper grounding the monitor is keeping a massive amount of static unchecked. There is also thousands of volts in the monitor and the CRT glass contains massive amounts of lead. Can anyone think that the monitor glass isn't grounded and there is a voltage leak? Hmm..
Its been a week or so and I still have a slight burn mark on my hand. Last time I touched a doorknob i didnt get any scarring
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You indicated that the humidity level in you house is at 87%..... I don't mean to question your integrity or judgment but a humidity level of 87% is only appropriate in a bathroom after a hot shower or in a heated conservatory/greenhouse. If the humidity in your house is really that high for an extended period of time you are sure to have mold/mildew problems warped furnishings etc.
It may be time for a new hygrometer either that or a new hvac system.
speedy1979 said:
You indicated that the humidity level in you house is at 87%..... I don't mean to question your integrity or judgment but a humidity level of 87% is only appropriate in a bathroom after a hot shower or in a heated conservatory/greenhouse. If the humidity in your house is really that high for an extended period of time you are sure to have mold/mildew problems warped furnishings etc.
It may be time for a new hygrometer either that or a new hvac system.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Gets that humid here sometimes if you open the windows (louisiana). AC usually runs like a river and drains away most of it though.
This is entertaining and all, but the important question is, how did your phone take it?
I once killed the touch screen on a device by going down a tubular plastic kids slide
(So now when I take the kids to the park and they want me to go down the slide, I put the phone down in a safe place)
The first of all, i think the monitor isnt grounded... your monitor is old and you have no carpets...
non of all are good for yourself...
you can look if the grounding of your home is good if yes, buy another monitor... and buy an carpet.....
if no just get your home grounded again!
-----
In an monitor is like 1000 volt... doesnt matter anyway, normally u dont get an shock if your monitor is grounded and is not old
but when an monitor isnt grounded... you can get an shock of like 230 volts on 16ampere....
its the normal voltage and ampere of an electro group in your home i think...
if it was only an statistic screen, it could be on minimal 3000 volts.... but thats anything u almost dont feel.... unless it is under the 2 mili ampere... when its higher you can feel it... and you can die after an little shock of 40+ volts on 100miliampere ...
so i think it was a little shock ... under the 100 mA but it could be like 10000volts...
next time, please use an volt meter
good story btw and hope you'll follow my guide
Don't die!
The house is my parents house. They don't take care of their stuff. I go over one in awhile and yes it seems they have some sort of mold issue because I get bad allergies if I stay over there..
The phone is fine, thankfully the discharge went right into the USB cable, now for the computer, I don't know if that usb port works, I haven't since tested it. The high humidity is attributed to numerous things such as a leaky toilet and while now it is winter and the air is dry, when it is over 40F, humidity frequently reaches 100% here.
I frequently remember working on computers growing up and getting shocked every time I brushed up against the steel case. Dangerous, indeed.
They buy the crappiest air filters for their furnace and smoke as well. I am lucky to be out of there. They won't switch to allergen filters because "they are too expensive" but ask them about changing their motor oil, they don't.
Which brings up this, They had a new SUV and my mother drives a lot, we had it since 2001 and it now sits at 263,000 miles. It has had 2 transmissions put in and a engine (threw rod) all due to improper maintenance. If this is any indication of habits on their behalf, then the house ground is the least of their issues.
I must defend them in some regard, They aren't nasty people, is that they have bent over for the last 20 years and have put work before family. They believe in the system and it has led to a failed family structure but still they remain the same.
Anyways, I do have a proper ground at home and use a nice UPS along with a "box fan filter" which i use a high quality filter taped to the fan. Sure, you can fight about aerodynamics and how this isn't the best way of doing it because the fan can't push air etc etc but it has at least reduced the amount of dust in the air and has made the air crisper. Of course the fan has a thermal switch and fuse so I don't have to worry about fires if it were to overheat. (I use allergen filters for furnaces).
We have 112V, maximum of 60 ampres per line. We have 220 going into the houses here but usually it's split into 112 for outlets and 220 @ 120A for things such as dryers and welders.
in that case, dieing with touching your phone and monitor will be easy indeed...
60ampere is a way tomuch for an normal electric wire in an home...
it has to be 16 because an wire/cable in the wall can be over heated to fast at higher when u use the full amperes....
an cable may be 85 celcius as most... but with 60 ampere you can get 360 celcius, that can but the rubber around the wire and could make fire on wood and on carpets...
be carefull, i shouldn't be happy to live in an dusty home with 360 celcius on wood
and whole not with the thoughts in my mind that i could die with touching ann monitor/tv while its connected to the computer and an phone in my hands whats connected to the same computer......
this because of an stupid electric group of 60!! Ampere....
Well all the outlets are fused to a certain amperage. As in, the normal amount allowed to come put of the socket is 10-15 amps before the magnetic fuse trips. The whole house shares a 60 amp line from the box and certain appliances can get up to and beyond 60 amps at 220V,
I may mention that the "official" output in the US is 110V but I regularly see 112 coming out of my outlets. Matter in fact, I see 80-160V coming out from time to time from "dirty' power, thanks to UPS's I don't have to worry about random crashes and it kicks on quite a bit.
Related
I've had my Touch Pro from Verizon since February but then in the last week or so, my phone would randomly get hot to the touch until the battery is pulled. So today I set my phone in the kitchen on the charger and then went to the front room to play some Call of Duty on the Xbox. After an hour or so, I noticed that the house was a little smoky so I got up and went to check outside to see if a fire was happening because I had all the windows open but to my surprise, no fires outside. After I stepped back into my house, I noticed the haze was still there but there was also a weird stench in the house as well. Right when I walked into the kitchen, there it was, in a flamming pile of plastic and silicon melted into my kitchen countertop. So I non chalantley walked over, unplugged the charger and took my cup of 7up and doused the fire out. After that, called Verizon customer care up and after 30 minutes of what I might assumed to be eyebrow raises throughtout the call center, they agree to give me a new TP on the house. The only resistance I had was that they wanted me to bring in a chunk of the phone for inspections but the phone was so melted into the counter that I would have to pop the counter off and bring it into the retail store, not happening!!! Moral of the story, dont piss off the phone by not giving it proper graphics acceleration drivers when there is a dedicated chip onboard.
Wow!!!
It´s unveliebable!!
My condolences for your device or what´s left of
WOW!
Did you notice anything unusual before the combustion happened (Like the device getting exceptionally hot, etc)?
eaglesteve said:
WOW!
Did you notice anything unusual before the combustion happened (Like the device getting exceptionally hot, etc)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if you read the first 50 words of his post youd think so
I have this htc thunderbolt as my work phone and in the past have always just left my phone in my truck over the weekend. I live in Florida so it gets very very hot in the car, but my old blackberry never had an issue with it.
Is it okay to leave the thunderbolt in a hot car all weekend, every week?
creyc said:
I have this htc thunderbolt as my work phone and in the past have always just left my phone in my truck over the weekend. I live in Florida so it gets very very hot in the car, but my old blackberry never had an issue with it.
Is it okay to leave the thunderbolt in a hot car all weekend, every week?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
extreme heat is bad on the battery and probably the lcd screen as well.
creyc said:
I have this htc thunderbolt as my work phone and in the past have always just left my phone in my truck over the weekend. I live in Florida so it gets very very hot in the car, but my old blackberry never had an issue with it.
Is it okay to leave the thunderbolt in a hot car all weekend, every week?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, you BlackBerry did have issues with it, you simply didn't see them. The kind of heat inside a closed car in FL can melt phones. I live down there part time and I've seen it happen. If nothing else, you're shortening the life of every component in the device, starting with the battery. Temperatures above 140 will begin to break down the chemicals your battery is made of. You won't notice it right away, but you'll be reducing the number of charge cycles the battery can take. If you HAVE to leave it in the vehicle, I'd wrap it up in something and stash it far enough under the seat that no light shined on it. That's what I've done when I take mine to music festivals.
Good points, although I did stash the blackberry in the console, out of direct sunlight. Never had an issue with battery life but maybe I just didn't notice it.
I certainly don't need to leave it in my car, it's just habit, since we don't work weekends I have no use for it, I won't forget it Monday morning if it's already in my car.
i had my phone in the sun in nevada for about 2 hours in the car
battery completely drained wouldnt turn back on and lcd cracked
When I know I will leave my phone in car and I live in Arizona where it can reach up to 180 inside a car. I bought a small lunch bag you buy at Walmart and put in an icepack inside I cover the ice pack with a wash rag so the pack does not touch the phone. After a few hours at the pool it still nice and cool inside the pack.
Sent from my Gingeritis free phone, its now Cl3an
Grnlantern79 said:
When I know I will leave my phone in car and I live in Arizona where it can reach up to 180 inside a car. I bought a small lunch bag you buy at Walmart and put in an icepack inside I cover the ice pack with a wash rag so the pack does not touch the phone. After a few hours at the pool it still nice and cool inside the pack.
Sent from my Gingeritis free phone, its now Cl3an
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That ain't a bad idea! or one of those little 6pack beer coolers that plug into the lighter.
Best to keep out of hot vehicles and out of coolers with ice packs wrapped or not.
Would you leave a diamond ring on the dashboard?
Or better yet, would you leave your personal device in there? It may not be your investment in the work phone but it was somebody's.
My answer: An emphatic NO!
Sent from my Synergized Thunderbolt via XDA Premium App
mistreater said:
Best to keep out of hot vehicles and out of coolers with ice packs wrapped or not.
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Click to collapse
I make sure it is not freezing it there it stays a very cool in bag not cold. I do not leave phone on, it is turned off. I have done this for year when ever I go somewhere I think my phone could be stolen or get wet such as beach, pool, water park. Trust me never had one issue with any phone. I don't know why last two post are so angry calm down if you don't want to do it its your choice. Enough said.
Sent from my Gingeritis free phone, its now Cl3an
just so you know, ive left my phone and my gaming netbook in my car many times and they are just fine. i do keep the phone in the glove box and the netbook under the back seat though. if you just keep them out of direct sunlight then you are ok.
[EDIT]: it also helps if you tint your windows. limo tint is best, but if you want to be ultra creep then do mirror tint.
Yea but my apartment could just as easily be robbed, and anyway it's insured.
Does anyone know an actual published temperature range for this phone? I've looked on verizon and htc websites, no luck.
Might not want to this weekend
Sent from my ADR6400L using xda premium
Lithium Ion battery chemistry doesn't like extreme heat or cold. Heat could cause vent with flame. Phone can't prevent it if ambient temperature is hot enough. Its not just a case of ruining your battery (which you could) or melting your phone (which could happen) you might even burn up your car. It isn't likely but it HAS happened to people. I wouldn't leave any lithium ion battery in a car parked in direct sunlight for any length of time in summer.
creyc said:
I have this htc thunderbolt as my work phone and in the past have always just left my phone in my truck over the weekend. I live in Florida so it gets very very hot in the car, but my old blackberry never had an issue with it.
Is it okay to leave the thunderbolt in a hot car all weekend, every week?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
NOPE! Don't do it!
Thanks for the input guys, I'll try to remember to bring it in.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
I'm going on a backpacking trip, and I would like to bring my phone to use in the car on the trip there and back (it's something like 5 hours each way, so I would like to have something to do in the car).
I would like to leave my phone in the car during the actual trip (2 days). I know that heat can be bad for a phone, but would leaving my phone in the car be a bad idea? What's the best location for it? Trunk, glove compartment, under a seat?
The high for each day is listed as 80F, low of 50-60F, and the car most likely will be parked in at least partial shade.
Does anyone have experience with this / any recommendations?
Depends on how hot your car actually gets, which will depend on how much shade you're actually talking about. It's not just a matter of the electronics, it can also be the possibility of adhesives in the phone softening if the heat is too high. If possible I'd just find somewhere safe to keep it in your gear and take it with you.
Oh man, 80 degrees in the shade is nothing, well at least not to me since it gets up to over 100 here. Putting it in the trunk will keep it cooler because it won't be exposed to any sunlight.
Yeah, keeping it out of direct sunlight is key. I kept an old iPhone 3G in my car at all times (played music off it) in North Carolina, even in the mid-90 degree summers, and have never had any issues with it aside from the screen perhaps getting a little washed out. I would just stick it in the glove compartment on particularly hot days.
xur17 said:
I'm going on a backpacking trip, and I would like to bring my phone to use in the car on the trip there and back (it's something like 5 hours each way, so I would like to have something to do in the car).
I would like to leave my phone in the car during the actual trip (2 days). I know that heat can be bad for a phone, but would leaving my phone in the car be a bad idea? What's the best location for it? Trunk, glove compartment, under a seat?
The high for each day is listed as 80F, low of 50-60F, and the car most likely will be parked in at least partial shade.
Does anyone have experience with this / any recommendations?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ya' know what. Two years ago had same experience. Have Galaxy Ace and kept it in the box for accesories (in front of front passengers legs) and everthing went well. Hope helped you. Sry for bad english
754boy said:
Oh man, 80 degrees in the shade is nothing, well at least not to me since it gets up to over 100 here. Putting it in the trunk will keep it cooler because it won't be exposed to any sunlight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've actually read reports that the trunk can get just as hot or close to the same temp as the inside of the car. on a 95 Deg day it could be 120 in the trunk :/
Turn it off when you leave it in the car.
Sent from a digital distance.
yeah at least turn it off, because the battery will live longer though
Sorry I never responded sooner.
I just got back from the trip, and everything worked out great. I left the phone in the trunk of the car, parked in the shade, and there were no problems when I got back. This is at least partially due to the shade and the cool-ish weather.
Thus overclocking ace plus effect the processor life .
Thanks in advance.
Sent from my GT-S7500 using xda app-developers app
Really what it comes down to is heat build up, just like with other computers, if you pump more electrons though a wire; then the more heat is produced. This is why heat sinks are on your computers' processor(s) and a fan to keep the heat sink cool.
If you're not concerned with portability when you are overclocking you can place your device on a heat sink ripped out of a "thrift store" tower (just look at the guts before buying one, if you see a mettle square with a bunch of littler mettle rectangles coming perpendicular off of its face from the chip, then that would be a heat sink) then get a cheep plastic case; cut out the back of it so the heat sink can be glued or secured to the case without harming the device (flat part towards the back of your phone and the poky bits you'll want sticking out) near where the battery and processor are and secure it, then grab one of the fans from the "thrift store" computer and attach so that the fan is on the poky bits blowing outward (this is to keep your fingertips from receiving the hot air wile you hold the device otherwise it really doesn't matter so-long as you've got good airflow to the heat sink), Grab a USB charger and splitter and plug a charger for your phone into one end of the splitter and a modded (cut and spliced cable that outputs the volts and amps for the fan; likely you'll want a tool for measuring such things and a little experience with soldering. Or you could try a 9 volt battery or 2 or 3 AA batteries) caiful not to electrocute yourself if you are making a modded cable and plug the fan into one of those methods... and congratulations you've just turned a phone that could fit into a pocket into a possessing powerhouse/big bulge in your pocket you can now answer those questions at the parties your frequent honestly "yes that is a phone in my pocket and I'm indifferent to seeing you" In all seriousness though a method like this would allow you to play on a overclocked device wile at home or near a power source and then put it back to defaults when 'on the go' and leave the extra kit at home or purse or backpack (if you've got a battery pack for the kit and a way to transport it) and when I'm more finished with the guide I'm writing currently I'll be documenting fully how to do this as I've all the compoinits just kicking around from other projects. With some Google searching though you could build one in a weekend or two, because all the individual guides are out there you'll just have to build it from multiple resources instead of one compiled guide (unless someone has beaten me to it that is )
All in all overclocking is something to be avoided unless you've got some knowledge in how to do it without frying the chips or blowing up your battery; you can also try 'clever code' like a good Governor for your processor and a heat monetering app or script running on the device to help keep the heat down but still allow for most things to run at a higher clock speed. This would be a software mod instead of a hardware mod.
Hope this gives you a little more to go on with your question. Hit me up if you've got further questions
I have a Navifly cpu uis7862 model M700S with 8-128GB mounted on a 2012 Peugeot 308 eHDI. I wanted to know if anyone knows how to have represented some sort of indication indicating that the machine is doing the regeneration of the FAP. I have no idea and have no experience with programming/electronics. But I think it would be a good thing to have this kind of indication on the monitor of the uis7862. I have already made the change using a pike led strip mounted in the outer mirror, which lights up when the regeneration of the FAP is active. Unfortunately during the day i can not see it, while obviously in the dark i can see immediately. Since I do mostly short routes and mostly during the day I do not know if the strip lights up. And for the above reasons, the regeneration of the FAP is activated quite frequently from day and unfortunately I do not notice it and therefore involuntarily interrupt it by turning off the machine.
So having a flashing written indication, or an "icon" that shows itself during the regeneration of the FAP would be very useful for many users among us who have a diesel car. Or maybe there is already an app for this purpose that I do not know and maybe someone can show it to me
I assume FAP is the Particle filter in your Peugeot? I really had to google for it, which makes your question very specific for your type of car.
If FAP is something else, please explain.
surfer63 said:
I assume FAP is the Particle filter in your Peugeot? I really had to google for it, which makes your question very specific for your type of car.
If FAP is something else, please explain.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I am referring to the Particle filter. But not specifically to Peugeot but for all diesel cars that have it of any brand. When the FAP regenerates, the control unit of the machine activates the heating of the external mirrors and turns on the defrosting of the rear window. Taking advantage of this, connecting a LED (or LED strip) to the contacts of the heater of the external mirror (which serves to defrost it) turns on and then you have the indication of the regeneration in progress. For the reasons of the first post of the day
I do not see even changing the color of the led. Hence my post. I think it could serve many users. I realize that it is perhaps a difficult thing to do, but I posed the problem anyway hoping that someone will have a solution. Or maybe someone has already done it
I think FAP is like a DPF or similar. It looks French (filtre à particules).
Anyway, these units can only show info that the canbus sent to the OEM head unit. If your cars canbus does not send that info over the wiring loom that runs to the head unit then there's no way for the FYT unit to show it.
Most cars only show DPF regeneration as a light on the dash console.
This may be something that shows via your cars ODBII port that would be shown in an app like Torque Pro.
j0hn83 said:
I think FAP is like a DPF or similar. It looks French (filtre à particules).
Anyway, these units can only show info that the canbus sent to the OEM head unit. If your cars canbus does not send that info over the wiring loom that runs to the head unit then there's no way for the FYT unit to show it.
Most cars only show DPF regeneration as a light on the dash console.
This may be something that shows via your cars ODBII port that would be shown in an app like Torque Pro.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, you're right. FAP is very similar to DPF. My canbus does not show this indication, on the other hand I did not even have it with the standard radio. Through the Torque app and ODB2 it can be a solution, but my post was written hoping that on our radio we could have a more direct indication.
Using Torque which indicator should I monitor according to you. I don't think there is a specific indicator, maybe I'm wrong. Do you have any ideas?
Specy01 said:
Using Torque which indicator should I monitor according to you. I don't think there is a specific indicator, maybe I'm wrong. Do you have any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not something I have much experience with. I have only connected my Bluetooth ODBII connector a couple of times.
I just know that the ODBII port shows much much more engine/diagnostics info than the 2 canbus wires that connect to our FYT units.
j0hn83 said:
It's not something I have much experience with. I have only connected my Bluetooth ODBII connector a couple of times.
I just know that the ODBII port shows much much more engine/diagnostics info than the 2 canbus wires that connect to our FYT units.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Meanwhile, I read a thread on a forum for peugeot in which they talk about a specific app for the FAP of peugeot that uses the ODB2. Tomorrow I install it and let you know. I could be satisfied but I would prefer if it is possible, to have something directly on the radio as mentioned before.
j0hn83 said:
I just know that the ODBII port shows much much more engine/diagnostics info than the 2 canbus wires that connect to our FYT units.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am aware of that, but I am not interested in much information about it. The only thing that interests me is to have an indication that tells me that the machine is doing the regeneration, nothing more, the other things are a surplus that I think can be of interest from time to time. Thanks for your help
On my Subaru I use OBD2 running through torque pro, I have loaded custom PIDs which show when DPF regen is active, % soot, mi!es since last regen, total regens, % oil dilution etc all on a single screen.
kommando said:
On my Subaru I use OBD2 running through torque pro, I have loaded custom PIDs which show when DPF regen is active, % soot, mi!es since last regen, total regens, % oil dilution etc all on a single screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have Torque installed on the uis7862? Can you put a picture of these indicators please.
Specy01 said:
Do you have Torque installed on the uis7862? Can you put a picture of these indicators please.
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Click to collapse
Yes have them on the 7862, I will take a screenshot later.
Tank's you
Snowed in and its too cold to get to the garage. Here is a similar screen to mine.
I’m curious. Why would your heating elements turn on during a dpf regen?
deadeye920 said:
I’m curious. Why would your heating elements turn on during a dpf regen?
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Depends on how the ECU is programmed, some manufacturers have the glow plugs on when a regen is on to increase the initial heatup of the exhaust gases and giving an earlier ignition of the excess fuel, others leave it to just the excess fuel injected after the exhaust valve is opened. If the DPF is very near the engine then it will heat up quickly just from the excess fuel. Jaguar/Land Rover put their DPF too far away and the DPF temps on regen are marginal and there are many issues with their engines and the DPF. Renault/Peugeot inject some chemical called EOLYS into the fuel tank every fill up, when this enters the DPF it lowers the temperature the soot burns off at down from 600C to 400C so passive regens are much more likely. I add this same chemical to my Subaru, I don't get more passive regens as the DPF never exceeds 325C outside a proper regen but the soot is burnt off in half the usual time in a full regen. Eolys is a cerium/iron based solution.
kommando said:
Depends on how the ECU is programmed, some manufacturers have the glow plugs on when a regen is on to increase the initial heatup of the exhaust gases and giving an earlier ignition of the excess fuel, others leave it to just the excess fuel injected after the exhaust valve is opened. If the DPF is very near the engine then it will heat up quickly just from the excess fuel. Jaguar/Land Rover put their DPF too far away and the DPF temps on regen are marginal and there are many issues with their engines and the DPF. Renault/Peugeot inject some chemical called EOLYS into the fuel tank every fill up, when this enters the DPF it lowers the temperature the soot burns off at down from 600C to 400C so passive regens are much more likely. I add this same chemical to my Subaru, I don't get more passive regens as the DPF never exceeds 325C outside a proper regen but the soot is burnt off in half the usual time in a full regen. Eolys is a cerium/iron based solution.
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I get all that but he said the heating elements of his wing mirrors and his rear screen turn on during a dpf regen.
deadeye920 said:
I get all that but he said the heating elements of his wing mirrors and his rear screen turn on during a dpf regen.
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No idea, Subaru's do not turn heating elements on during active regens.
Googling gets you to
DPF Regeneration active light fitted.
Hi all I hope your all well, Today after reading on the net that some have fitted a warning light to show when the car is in the DPF regeneration mode, I decided to fit one into my drivers side mirror, not sure it will work during dpf regeneration as some say that only the rear heated...
www.peugeotforums.com
Because it needs to be invisible to the user to avoid unnecessary complaints. It's a strategy to increase engine load and therefore DPF temps.
kommando said:
Depends on how the ECU is programmed, some manufacturers have the glow plugs on when a regen is on to increase the initial heatup of the exhaust gases and giving an earlier ignition of the excess fuel, others leave it to just the excess fuel injected after the exhaust valve is opened. If the DPF is very near the engine then it will heat up quickly just from the excess fuel. Jaguar/Land Rover put their DPF too far away and the DPF temps on regen are marginal and there are many issues with their engines and the DPF. Renault/Peugeot inject some chemical called EOLYS into the fuel tank every fill up, when this enters the DPF it lowers the temperature the soot burns off at down from 600C to 400C so passive regens are much more likely. I add this same chemical to my Subaru, I don't get more passive regens as the DPF never exceeds 325C outside a proper regen but the soot is burnt off in half the usual time in a full regen. Eolys is a cerium/iron based solution.
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deadeye920 said:
I get all that but he said the heating elements of his wing mirrors and his rear screen turn on during a dpf regen.
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Congratulations @kommando for your precise explanation.
@deadeye920, I won't be so precise, sorry I'm not a mechanic. I can only tell you that when the FAP regenerates the system tries to increase the electrical absorption of the vehicle and does so by activating the defrosting of the exterior mirrors (right and left), the defrosting of the rear window, the engine cooling fan (and maybe even other things that I ignore). This is because to increase the workload of the engine more to heat more the exhaust gases that burn the particulate matter in the FAP (around 450 ° C.
I'm not talking about DPF but maybe FAP is different. This occurs on Peugeot, Citroen and Renault almost certainly, for others Marco I could not tell you
Based on the forum link I added FAP=DPF .
@kommando I like this photo it is very interesting, but this requires that the ODB2 is always connected to the ODB socket. It can be useful and I will try it. I will also try the app "fap lite Citroen/peugeot" and I will let you know, it could be useful to someone