Related
so planning to catch some of the commons issues I seen over the forums, and want to see where people managed to fix issues, and I will add my own from experience, I had read through the forums, and tried many of the suggestions:
this on Erisin KGL PX5 Unit for VW.
I had tried factory MCU firmware, Factory andriod system
then
latest MCU firmware Malaysk andriod system.
and while the unit improved. this did not have any effect on the following problems:
NOISE ISSUE
1- when unit isoff, no sound at all from speakers
2- when unit is on, but muted very low volume constant tune hissing sound.
3- slightly louder volume constant tune hissing sound when the unit is NOT muted (does not go up as volume in increased)
4- data like noise, (like old computer onboard audio, noise is relevant to how much processing is done), this does not go up as volume is increased
a) I had looked into lowering the aux input gain from factory menu, thinking it might be aux in being not connected causing some of the above
b) tried removing every single cable (apart from the harness that is powering the unit)
c) what I will try next, is to see if I can provide cleaner power to the unit, or improve the ground, I am not electrical engineer, so some advice is needed.
-----------------------------------------
"Here Maps" Audio skips milliseconds of speech.
so instead of saying "take the first exit at the next roundabout", it sounds like "take the fist exi at the nex rou bout"
I had tried downloading other voices, but the the problem persist.
I really have no idea why this is happening but will be nice to know how to solve it.
--------------------------------------------
dreaded wifi issue:
unit wifi is really bad although I literally parked next to the router, at my house, and there is only a window rather than a wall i between.
only remedy so far is to improve line of sight, however I read that improving the grounding, or getting better wifi antenna might solve the problem. so will give this a go later.
----------------------------------------------
Radio performance was appalling out of the box. so I purchased fakra radio adapter (powered)
this improve performance significantly, and now it picks up most of the radio channels.
still the radio is not as good as stock radio that came with the car.
as most channels have a bit of crackling sound, very few sound perfect.
----------------------------------------------
the screen is very reflective and barely visible in daylight, (I have light color leather seats) which makes the screen even worse.
so I am thinking of buying anti gloss screen filter.
I would think it will wash out the colors a bit, but I am willing to do that in order to see the screen properly.
as of night time, even when lowering brightness to min, its still bright, so I am thinking of getting something like Lux or automatic adjustment based on time (since the unit does not have ambient sensor)
------------------------------
2 months ago I had also a KGL / Erisin radio for VW with sound problems. You always heard a noise from the speakers. The Boise came from the AMP chip. Then i had a Ownice C500 that also Bad noise from the speakers. Now i have a Xtrons PX5 Unit and there is no noise. Additionally i have made an upgrade from TDA 7388 to Pioneer PA2030A, now the sound is perfect.
how did you upgrade the MOSFET?
are they pin compatible and you can desolder the old one and replace it with the new one?
zapedge said:
how did you upgrade the MOSFET?
are they pin compatible and you can desolder the old one and replace it with the new one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly. You can buy the AMP on eBay.
I've not audio issues, but for me radio reception is not so good, in particular the AF option works very bad!
Wifi performances are intermittent (I've a 4g wifi dongle; the signal comes and goes...) but when it goes, it downloads at full speed.
Screen is very reflective but lights are ok for me.
I have some problem with google maps app: it locks and I've to restart it 2 o 3 times... I don't know if it depends on the app or on the system.
mmmalas said:
"Here Maps" Audio skips milliseconds of speech.
so instead of saying "take the first exit at the next roundabout", it sounds like "take the fist exi at the nex rou bout"
------------------------------
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the Erisin 6405V in my VW Golf mk5. All seems to be running fine, haven't noticed the wifi issues really as I mainly use a USB 3G Dongle I have connected.
For your navigation audio, goto Settings > Navigation Settings and change audio mode from switching to fixed(?) (basically the other option, I can't remember off the top of my head) I found this fixed my issue in google maps.
Also highly suggest to do all google play updates (maps/google app/play services) that's improved the stability of alot of the apps I use on my headunit.
I'm (I think) running their KGL_PX5_6.0(20170502) that erisin sent me to fix my bluetooth echo.
My -only- issue I'm finding. I had a previous headunit's I had tried and sent back for various reasons (xtrons and eonon) they detected my car doors open etc correctly but the erisin one doesnt seem to. Not that this is a problem, just wondering where the issue could be as the CanBus settings seem to be correct.
The hissing you hear is caused by the Wi-Fi. Turn off Wi-Fi and you will see that the noise is gone
turning off the wifi does not fix the issue.
as for mixing vs fixed mode in navigation audio, that did not make a difference.
I will open the unit soon to upgrade the amp, and maybe dampen the noise with a help with an electrical engineer
Ati_gangster said:
2 months ago I had also a KGL / Erisin radio for VW with sound problems. You always heard a noise from the speakers. The Boise came from the AMP chip. Then i had a Ownice C500 that also Bad noise from the speakers. Now i have a Xtrons PX5 Unit and there is no noise. Additionally i have made an upgrade from TDA 7388 to Pioneer PA2030A, now the sound is perfect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also have the noise, this is my second head unit, I had to return the old one due to issues with the buttons... Is swapping the mosfets very complicated? I am comfortable with soldering irons, have used it for other works... Do you have any pictures of the work done?
Thanks
zapedge said:
how did you upgrade the MOSFET?
are they pin compatible and you can desolder the old one and replace it with the new one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not easy but possible.
Look at this thread, there are some photos.
http://forum.carjoying.com/thread-4...ar-view-camera-problem-changing-tda-7388.html
Good luck
j0nnymoe said:
I have the Erisin 6405V in my VW Golf mk5. All seems to be running fine, haven't noticed the wifi issues really as I mainly use a USB 3G Dongle I have connected.
For your navigation audio, goto Settings > Navigation Settings and change audio mode from switching to fixed(?) (basically the other option, I can't remember off the top of my head) I found this fixed my issue in google maps.
Also highly suggest to do all google play updates (maps/google app/play services) that's improved the stability of alot of the apps I use on my headunit.
I'm (I think) running their KGL_PX5_6.0(20170502) that erisin sent me to fix my bluetooth echo.
My -only- issue I'm finding. I had a previous headunit's I had tried and sent back for various reasons (xtrons and eonon) they detected my car doors open etc correctly but the erisin one doesnt seem to. Not that this is a problem, just wondering where the issue could be as the CanBus settings seem to be correct.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, can you share the link to the Firmware ERISIN sent you? how did you contact them?
thanks in advance
mmmalas said:
so planning to catch some of the commons issues I seen over the forums, and want to see where people managed to fix issues, and I will add my own from experience, I had read through the forums, and tried many of the suggestions:
this on Erisin KGL PX5 Unit for VW.
I had tried factory MCU firmware, Factory andriod system
then
latest MCU firmware Malaysk andriod system.
and while the unit improved. this did not have any effect on the following problems:
NOISE ISSUE
1- when unit isoff, no sound at all from speakers
2- when unit is on, but muted very low volume constant tune hissing sound.
3- slightly louder volume constant tune hissing sound when the unit is NOT muted (does not go up as volume in increased)
4- data like noise, (like old computer onboard audio, noise is relevant to how much processing is done), this does not go up as volume is increased
a) I had looked into lowering the aux input gain from factory menu, thinking it might be aux in being not connected causing some of the above
b) tried removing every single cable (apart from the harness that is powering the unit)
c) what I will try next, is to see if I can provide cleaner power to the unit, or improve the ground, I am not electrical engineer, so some advice is needed.
-----------------------------------------
"Here Maps" Audio skips milliseconds of speech.
so instead of saying "take the first exit at the next roundabout", it sounds like "take the fist exi at the nex rou bout"
I had tried downloading other voices, but the the problem persist.
I really have no idea why this is happening but will be nice to know how to solve it.
--------------------------------------------
dreaded wifi issue:
unit wifi is really bad although I literally parked next to the router, at my house, and there is only a window rather than a wall i between.
only remedy so far is to improve line of sight, however I read that improving the grounding, or getting better wifi antenna might solve the problem. so will give this a go later.
----------------------------------------------
Radio performance was appalling out of the box. so I purchased fakra radio adapter (powered)
this improve performance significantly, and now it picks up most of the radio channels.
still the radio is not as good as stock radio that came with the car.
as most channels have a bit of crackling sound, very few sound perfect.
----------------------------------------------
the screen is very reflective and barely visible in daylight, (I have light color leather seats) which makes the screen even worse.
so I am thinking of buying anti gloss screen filter.
I would think it will wash out the colors a bit, but I am willing to do that in order to see the screen properly.
as of night time, even when lowering brightness to min, its still bright, so I am thinking of getting something like Lux or automatic adjustment based on time (since the unit does not have ambient sensor)
------------------------------
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
zapedge said:
Hi, can you share the link to the Firmware ERISIN sent you? how did you contact them?
thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is the link: https://workupload.com/archive/49a8wjT
I contacted them via email.
I had took my unit to hardware lab, and powered it, and connected it to oscliscope.
it seems that there is 25khz noise on the speaker output all the time.
I had tested also pre amp output, and that have some noise too. so my guess is that good amp would cut off those high frequencies, and thats why it sounds better.
I will try to use ferrite cores, and see if it improve the situation, although I think it will not be able to cut low frequencies, but it never hurts to try espacilly this means no need to open the unit. I will report back later
j0nnymoe, can you tell us the MCU version for your unit after the update. thanks
Did you try 2.47 MCU? That's the latest for MTCD KGL PX3/PX5.
I have experienced noise issue #4 when I am using WiFi hotspot from my phone and phone is next to the unit.
mmmalas said:
I had took my unit to hardware lab, and powered it, and connected it to oscliscope.
it seems that there is 25khz noise on the speaker output all the time.
I had tested also pre amp output, and that have some noise too. so my guess is that good amp would cut off those high frequencies, and thats why it sounds better.
I will try to use ferrite cores, and see if it improve the situation, although I think it will not be able to cut low frequencies, but it never hurts to try espacilly this means no need to open the unit. I will report back later
j0nnymoe, can you tell us the MCU version for your unit after the update. thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This noise is so annoying, it makes me miss my OEM head unit, my car has an OEM Bose sound system with an amplifier under the seat and a subwoofer in the spare wheel, I don't know if this might be the issue for me, the subwoofer and all 8 speakers certainly work, as soon as I mute the head unit, the noise is gone, as soon as I step it up to Vol 1, I xan hear the noise, when the music or radio is playing, I can't really hear it but if the volume is up and it comes to the end of the song, I can hear it and it's bugging me... I don't know of replacing the AMP chip with a Pioneer chip (As mentioned before) would be the ultimate solution to get rid of that noise...
The other problem I am facing is the brightness of the screen in daylight, I have a Dasaita V600 (Specific to my 2012 Mazda3), I barely can see anything during the daytime, the brightness is cranked up to the max, are there any other settings to play around with? Contrast maybe etc...
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
Sassokee said:
The other problem I am facing is the brightness of the screen in daylight, I have a Dasaita V600 (Specific to my 2012 Mazda3), I barely can see anything during the daytime, the brightness is cranked up to the max, are there any other settings to play around with? Contrast maybe etc...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Disable in Factory Settings brightness control by headlamp, it's something like that, but it made my screen brighter during the day.
stefcio007 said:
Disable in Factory Settings brightness control by headlamp, it's something like that, but it made my screen brighter during the day.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the advice, I will try this later and report back.
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
opened the unit today, nothing obvoius of whats wrong.
I noticed that the wifi antenna connected to realteck chip that claims antenna diversity, however the second antenna does not exist.
as for the car amp, still looking into the problem cause, might start digging into the pcb further to see where its going wrong.
Sassokee said:
This noise is so annoying, it makes me miss my OEM head unit, my car has an OEM Bose sound system with an amplifier under the seat and a subwoofer in the spare wheel, I don't know if this might be the issue for me, the subwoofer and all 8 speakers certainly work, as soon as I mute the head unit, the noise is gone, as soon as I step it up to Vol 1, I xan hear the noise, when the music or radio is playing, I can't really hear it but if the volume is up and it comes to the end of the song, I can hear it and it's bugging me... I don't know of replacing the AMP chip with a Pioneer chip (As mentioned before) would be the ultimate solution to get rid of that noise...
The other problem I am facing is the brightness of the screen in daylight, I have a Dasaita V600 (Specific to my 2012 Mazda3), I barely can see anything during the daytime, the brightness is cranked up to the max, are there any other settings to play around with? Contrast maybe etc...
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have almost the same issues with the same unit for my Mazda 6 2015.
1. frustrating with the noise at low volume.
2. poor quality of WIFI signal (I'm sending my internet via mifi router)
3. poor quality of bluetooth phone calls.
i had wifi problems with my eonon ga6200f (kld-mtcd) just would not connect at all logged into my router and manually set the channel to channel 3 and its been fine since connects every time now.
i also have a problem with background sound when unit is not playing anything i have an infinity amp so im running through a spdif box from front left and right speakers so figured thats what the problem was been trying to find out if any of the pins not laid out in the manual are spdif out but not getting very far with seller or eonon
I have a MTCD GS (Xtrons) unit for my Audi (PF75ATTAR). This is a RK3188 unit with Android 5.1. I have installed Malaysk's latest 12.6 ROM for this however I expect this is the last ROM he will be releasing for this platform.
The unit is a bit slow, however the MicroG version of Malaysk's ROM speeds things up. But I still think its time for a replacement.
I am trying to decide on whether to get a PX3 or a PX5 based unit. Both seem to be popular and Malaysk has current ROMs for both. I like the idea of Android 7.1.
Just wondering whether anyone has had or has both currently and their experience/comparison?
Is it worth just replacing the SoM for a PX5 board since the actual head unit hardware is the same?
Andy
ADB100 said:
I have a MTCD GS (Xtrons) unit for my Audi (PF75ATTAR). This is a RK3188 unit with Android 5.1. I have installed Malaysk's latest 12.6 ROM for this however I expect this is the last ROM he will be releasing for this platform.
The unit is a bit slow, however the MicroG version of Malaysk's ROM speeds things up. But I still think its time for a replacement.
I am trying to decide on whether to get a PX3 or a PX5 based unit. Both seem to be popular and Malaysk has current ROMs for both. I like the idea of Android 7.1.
Just wondering whether anyone has had or has both currently and their experience/comparison?
Is it worth just replacing the SoM for a PX5 board since the actual head unit hardware is the same?
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nobody?
ADB100 said:
I have a MTCD GS (Xtrons) unit for my Audi (PF75ATTAR). This is a RK3188 unit with Android 5.1. I have installed Malaysk's latest 12.6 ROM for this however I expect this is the last ROM he will be releasing for this platform.
The unit is a bit slow, however the MicroG version of Malaysk's ROM speeds things up. But I still think its time for a replacement.
I am trying to decide on whether to get a PX3 or a PX5 based unit. Both seem to be popular and Malaysk has current ROMs for both. I like the idea of Android 7.1.
Just wondering whether anyone has had or has both currently and their experience/comparison?
Is it worth just replacing the SoM for a PX5 board since the actual head unit hardware is the same?
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd say px5 with 4gb ram. If you can't find one then 2gb ram.
Because they are making an Android Oreo build for px5.
ADB100 said:
Nobody?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try @Hal9k_'s ROM, use the microG settings, its easily the best and fastest RK3188/PX3 ROM.
Hes even made the Nougat ROM from the RK3188/PX3 Nougat SoMs work on the 1Gb version, although its not as fast as his Lollipop ROM and is just the standard Nougat ROM (rooted), made to work non Lolliop units, he is working on a custom Nougat version that will work on both 1Gb and 2Gb RK3188/PX3 units.
However, you could probably very easily remove gapps and replace with microG yourself to make it faster, theres a guide for doing it (to Lollipop units) in the forum, just removing about 5 apps and installing microG.
Of course a 2 or 4GB RK3368/PX5 will be faster and newer, but @Hal9k_'s ROM will give your old unit a new lease of life.
I can't recommend the px5 for the unstable rom and no improvement in an year.
I haven't tried the others (px3) but even slower hardware is better with stable software.
I'm also disappointed about the functionality in general, you can't set stay on without ignition and go to sleep after half an hour, there is no low voltage shutoff, the device drains the battery well below 10 Volts and goes in an reset loop at low voltages disturbing other can bus devices some till some failure. Switched off by power button still takes nearly full current.
Not a device to put in an car overall.
iwl said:
I can't recommend the px5 for the unstable rom and no improvement in an year.
I haven't tried the others (px3) but even slower hardware is better with stable software.
I'm also disappointed about the functionality in general, you can't set stay on without ignition and go to sleep after half an hour, there is no low voltage shutoff, the device drains the battery well below 10 Volts and goes in an reset loop at low voltages disturbing other can bus devices some till some failure. Switched off by power button still takes nearly full current.
Not a device to put in an car overall.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I decided on a PX5 board with 32GB ROM 2GB RAM which took only a couple of weeks to arrive from China (Witson) and its working fine in my MTCD(now E) GS unit. The hardware behaviour is exactly the same as it was with the PX3 board (which I would expect as I haven't changed the MTCE hardware). The unit powers off with no ignition (as it did previously which I don't see as an issue?) and I don't have battery drain. I can only think you have it wired wrong or you have faulty hardware?
I installed Malaysk's 6.2 ROM and have installed my own apps and its all good. I have issues with the integration with the car (CANBUS) but these are exactly the same as they were with the PX3 - I don't think anything but new firmware for CANBUS decoder will fix these issues.
Andy
iwl said:
I can't recommend the px5 for the unstable rom and no improvement in an year.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here I tend to partially agree. However Android 8 might be available as custom ROM on PX5/2GB/4GB units soon. There are official Android 8 preinstalled PX5/4GB boards available already but it's still not clear whether we can upgrade PX5 2GB SoM and the PX5 4GB SoM which were shipped with Android 6. Probably this will be sorted out soon.
What kind of instabilities are you referring to in particular?
I am asking since my PX5 with stock KLD ROM from November 2017 is quite stable. At least no app crashes and similar issues. Despite the famous Google Maps hanging which seem to be mainly related to Google Maps code itself and there is a work-around for it.
iwl said:
I'm also disappointed about the functionality in general, you can't set stay on without ignition and go to sleep after half an hour, there is no low voltage shutoff, the device drains the battery well below 10 Volts and goes in an reset loop at low voltages disturbing other can bus devices some till some failure. Switched off by power button still takes nearly full current.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure what would cause this. My unit enters standby immediately after ignition is off. Then it kills all applications to avoid any background process waking the device (which is btw. the root cause for some app issues). In Standby mode my device draws very little power. I didn't have a single issue even after the unit being on standby for more than a week when the car was not in use. If concerned you might connect a battery watchdog in between the unit and the car so when voltage drops below a certain treshold it would cut-off the head unit from power.
If the unit would have such a battery watchdog implemented that would of course be great but I guess the units were built to keep a certain price range and in most cases such a watchdog is not required.
Though I understood that some cars do not have an ignition trigger any more but get their power-on signal on canbus. Here I could imagine that the canbus adapter perhaps need additional power to listen to canbus wakeup events. Not sure about this scenario though as my car has an ignition cable connected to the head unit.
I fully agree to the "unable to turn on when ignition is off" issue. This is usually possible with factory head units but MTCD/MTCE units seem to be mostly unable to be powered on without ignition. The only work-around I can currently imagine is to mount a switch which shorts battery+ to ignition input on the head unit which would allow you to manually power it up. Also such a switch can be combined with a small electronic timer. So it would be medium difficulty to mount a button which pulls on the ignition line on the head unit to 12V for 30 minutes and then resets. Still a pity it's not built in I agree.
iwl said:
I can't recommend the px5 for the unstable rom and no improvement in an year.
I haven't tried the others (px3) but even slower hardware is better with stable software.
I'm also disappointed about the functionality in general, you can't set stay on without ignition and go to sleep after half an hour, there is no low voltage shutoff, the device drains the battery well below 10 Volts and goes in an reset loop at low voltages disturbing other can bus devices some till some failure. Switched off by power button still takes nearly full current.
Not a device to put in an car overall.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You ignition/sleep problems will be down to your car and/or the CAN Bus decoder, not the stereo, as will whether the unit can be powered on or off with the ignition on.
I ve not heard of anyone saying the ROM is "unstable" before. In fact I ve not heard of any of your problems before, only the GPS bug and the BT/mic probs which you dont mention.
It sounds to me like your stereo has not been installed properly.
Many are just lacking deeper technical knowledge to see that problems I have investigated.
Or try to fix it with cooling fans.
I have a original mercedes radio having the missing features it is just a matter of proper engineering.
Yes it is not android computer I would like to have but not crashing every hour and at the end the car distracted by.
Don't tell it works just count the posts.
Hey all,
I just bought a pumpkin android octo core, 4GB ram Android 8 head unit.
This isn't my first android HU. So some quick thoughts...
Very nice they gave a good WiFi antenna with the included kit.
This unit has something odd about it that I need some guidance on... it supports some super fast boot up where if I put the igntion on , the unit is ready to go in a second.
I wonder is this a battery built into the unit? Is it using some large capacitor (tested at least 1hr after shutdown, bootup took 1 second) I very much hope it's not draining the car battery (old android head unit never did).
Everything seems lightning fast on this unit. I can finally even use Google assistant. I sort of could with the last Joying one, but it was just too slow to be practical... as was waiting 5 minutes to be able to use the GPS.
This is literally day zero, as in I just got it a few hours ago so I'll be updating this and testing anything people want me to test later... but I have one other issue and that is that there seems to be a slight hissing sound coming from the unit .. .even with the levels turned way down in the factory settings app... not sure what's causing that but it's a bit of an issue while there's no music playing / not driving around.
Some pics of course :
I got it from Amazon. Cost me £250 on-sale.
The sleep mode you're talking about is the "Auto" setting in the sleep settings menu, I think it's under the "Extra Settings" menu entry. It basically keeps the unit on in a low power mode indefinitely until it gets a 12v+ signal on the red wire behind the radio. During this time though, it's still drawing from your vehicle's battery. Unless your car has a low capacity battery or other charging system issues, it shouldn't be a problem for you. I've left my truck sitting for over a week with the radio in sleep mode and it fired right up to whatever screen I left it on.
Since this is your first unit, don't get hung up on brand names. All of these units are basically either a PX3 or a PX5, and the roms and programs you'll find on these boards are broken down based on what processor is in it. Theres a dozen different brand names, but they're all basically the same three units.
Thanks Hazard15301 it's good to know. I travel a lot for work and often leave my car in airport car parks for weeks. It has a good AGM battery so I guess I should be ok.
from what i can tell, that box is actually the design Erisin uses on their boxes. and the headunit im pretty sure is a Klyde. what is the MCU version on it?
I left my car for well over a week with my unit in 'sleep' mode. Started up no problem
Hi, how did you download Google Assistant onto the pumpkin head unit? And can it work just like the phone - playing specific songs in Spotify etc? Thanks.
Google assistant is built-in to the android OS on it. Just enable it and say "OK Google". It can do anything you can do on your phone (although i'm now having trouble with it making phone calls because it thinks it's a phone.. on my old unit it would just bluetooth to the phone and make the call ... the new one won't make calls for some reason - haven't had time to figure out why yet) ... very happy with this unit. This is what Android head units should be like. Everything works, and it's fast.
Thank you very much for the quick reply!
Is the Google assistant an app on its own in the HU? Do I have to click the app first in order to say “ok Google”?
Or can I be on any screen and say “ok Google” and it’ll work?
thanks!
imogenheap said:
Thank you very much for the quick reply!
Is the Google assistant an app on its own in the HU? Do I have to click the app first in order to say “ok Google”?
Or can I be on any screen and say “ok Google” and it’ll work?
thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's already there, installed as part of the OS, but you have to enable it.
open the Google app (again, built in / pre-installed)
At the bottom right, tap More More and then Settings and then Voice.
Under "Okay Google," tap Voice match.
Turn on Access with voice match.
It's not a separate app, it's just in the "google" app (it's just literally called Google on mine)
Once you enable it ... you can just say "OK Google" from any screen ... you don't have to press anything / open any app first.
For some reason I have to set my language to English US (I'm British) otherwise it says English UK isn't supported.
Cheers
Follow up on unit
Hello, I know this is an old post, however i would like to know how your Pumpkin stereo has held up? Even if you no longer have the head unit or you sold your car, what was your thoughts during the time you had it?
I am considering putting one in my VW Jetta, as i noticed you also had it in a VW and would appreciate your input?
Thanks in advance
lordxenu said:
Hey all,
I just bought a pumpkin android octo core, 4GB ram Android 8 head unit.
This isn't my first android HU. So some quick thoughts...
Very nice they gave a good WiFi antenna with the included kit.
This unit has something odd about it that I need some guidance on... it supports some super fast boot up where if I put the igntion on , the unit is ready to go in a second.
I wonder is this a battery built into the unit? Is it using some large capacitor (tested at least 1hr after shutdown, bootup took 1 second) I very much hope it's not draining the car battery (old android head unit never did).
Everything seems lightning fast on this unit. I can finally even use Google assistant. I sort of could with the last Joying one, but it was just too slow to be practical... as was waiting 5 minutes to be able to use the GPS.
This is literally day zero, as in I just got it a few hours ago so I'll be updating this and testing anything people want me to test later... but I have one other issue and that is that there seems to be a slight hissing sound coming from the unit .. .even with the levels turned way down in the factory settings app... not sure what's causing that but it's a bit of an issue while there's no music playing / not driving around.
Some pics of course :
I got it from Amazon. Cost me £250 on-sale.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
zapper_master said:
Hello, I know this is an old post, however i would like to know how your Pumpkin stereo has held up? Even if you no longer have the head unit or you sold your car, what was your thoughts during the time you had it?
I am considering putting one in my VW Jetta, as i noticed you also had it in a VW and would appreciate your input?
Thanks in advance
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Click to collapse
Hi
I still have the headunit, and I'm really happy with it. It has served me very well while i've had it. It has never failed, crashed, slowed down etc and I've never needed to mess around with custom ROMs or anything. I can still install apps from the play store etc. Waze works perfectly, as does google maps.
I did purchase poweramp for it and the controls on the steering wheel work just fine too. So I would still recommend it. This is my second android headunit and it's so much better than my first Joying one stuck on android 5 and had only 1GB of RAM and it was sooo slow that GPS was almost unusable. But this one is lightning fast, it goes into standby when you turn off the car so when you turn it back on it's up and running straight away.. no waiting to boot.
The radio is a bit crap though, if that bothers you (I never listen to it) .. it doesn't recieve signals very well and I did hook up the power to the antenna and I did set it to Europe region (where I live) but yeah it doesn't pick up that many channels for some reason but since I either stream music or listen to MP3s from the memory card, i'm not too bothered about that.
One other strange bug, on my old android head unit I could use google assistant / say OK Google and say "Call work" or whomever, and it would dial on my phone. This one seems to think it's a phone , and says that there is no service. But not a big problem, I can press the phone button and just dial .. but it would be nice if I could do it by speaking to it.
Overall, very happy.
Thank you so much for the quick response. Your information is VERY helpful. I do realize none are going to be perfect, but it sounds decent unit for the price. Do you mind sharing what model you got? unless you mentioned it earlier in the thread then i apologize for asking.
lordxenu said:
Hi
I still have the headunit, and I'm really happy with it. It has served me very well while i've had it. It has never failed, crashed, slowed down etc and I've never needed to mess around with custom ROMs or anything. I can still install apps from the play store etc. Waze works perfectly, as does google maps.
I did purchase poweramp for it and the controls on the steering wheel work just fine too. So I would still recommend it. This is my second android headunit and it's so much better than my first Joying one stuck on android 5 and had only 1GB of RAM and it was sooo slow that GPS was almost unusable. But this one is lightning fast, it goes into standby when you turn off the car so when you turn it back on it's up and running straight away.. no waiting to boot.
The radio is a bit crap though, if that bothers you (I never listen to it) .. it doesn't recieve signals very well and I did hook up the power to the antenna and I did set it to Europe region (where I live) but yeah it doesn't pick up that many channels for some reason but since I either stream music or listen to MP3s from the memory card, i'm not too bothered about that.
One other strange bug, on my old android head unit I could use google assistant / say OK Google and say "Call work" or whomever, and it would dial on my phone. This one seems to think it's a phone , and says that there is no service. But not a big problem, I can press the phone button and just dial .. but it would be nice if I could do it by speaking to it.
Overall, very happy.
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Click to collapse
zapper_master said:
Thank you so much for the quick response. Your information is VERY helpful. I do realize none are going to be perfect, but it sounds decent unit for the price. Do you mind sharing what model you got? unless you mentioned it earlier in the thread then i apologize for asking.
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Click to collapse
No worries, feel free to ask me as many questions about it as you like and i'll try to answer.
With regards to which model,
The amazon listing said "Pumpkin Android 8.0 Car Stereo for VW Golf Passat Polo
4GB RAM Sat Nav Bluetooth Support CD DVD GPS DAB+ WIFI Android Auto"
if i check the about menu on the unit itself it says it's a "PX5"
Thank you I appreciate it. Looks like the internals are all about the same on most models with just small differences.
Enjoy your evening.
lordxenu said:
No worries, feel free to ask me as many questions about it as you like and i'll try to answer.
With regards to which model,
The amazon listing said "Pumpkin Android 8.0 Car Stereo for VW Golf Passat Polo
4GB RAM Sat Nav Bluetooth Support CD DVD GPS DAB+ WIFI Android Auto"
if i check the about menu on the unit itself it says it's a "PX5"
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Click to collapse
Plan on upgrading my old truck with an Android headunit and saw ATOTO, anyone knows about this brand?
tillthedark said:
Plan on upgrading my old truck with an Android headunit and saw ATOTO, anyone knows about this brand?
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Own a S8 Premium of this brand for almost 4 months now and still works good.
Recommendations for the 10″. You can make phone calls (check local laws), access your music, receive messages and get directions . You are not always going to be limited to either Android or Apple now or in the future. With the AutoLink option, you can also cast what's on your phone screen to S8's display.
I bought an ATOTO S8 (Gen 2) and it has been an absolute disaster. The thing drains my car battery completely if I don't drive my car for 3 days. I've been fighting with "support" for over 3 months and they keep jerking me around and making me jump through hoops and refusing to actually support their product. Don't waste your time or money.
theholyhermit said:
I bought an ATOTO S8 (Gen 2) and it has been an absolute disaster. The thing drains my car battery completely if I don't drive my car for 3 days. I've been fighting with "support" for over 3 months and they keep jerking me around and making me jump through hoops and refusing to actually support their product. Don't waste your time or money.
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Click to collapse
Do you read others on these forums complaining if the same issues you have.
You don't say how it was installed, with/out canbus and what you have tried to resolve the problems. So one could conclude user/install issue.
marchnz said:
Do you read others on these forums complaining if the same issues you have.
You don't say how it was installed, with/out canbus and what you have tried to resolve the problems. So one could conclude user/install issue.
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One could conclude that if one wanted to assume that I am an idiot, which I am not. Thanks for the insult, though. I've been installing car stereos for many years. This vehicle has one of the most straightforward setups ever. The head unit doesn't deep sleep, it keeps pulling huge amounts of current, even with the key off, thereby killing the battery. Electricity 101.
theholyhermit said:
One could conclude that if one wanted to assume that I am an idiot, which I am not. Thanks for the insult, though. I've been installing car stereos for many years. This vehicle has one of the most straightforward setups ever. The head unit doesn't deep sleep, it keeps pulling huge amounts of current, even with the key off, thereby killing the battery. Electricity 101.
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Post details instead of diatribe if you want others to help.
theholyhermit said:
One could conclude that if one wanted to assume that I am an idiot, which I am not. Thanks for the insult, though. I've been installing car stereos for many years. This vehicle has one of the most straightforward setups ever. The head unit doesn't deep sleep, it keeps pulling huge amounts of current, even with the key off, thereby killing the battery. Electricity 101.
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If you have been installing these systems for years, then you would have known by now that the 12V continuous and 12V ACC are sometimes switched nowadays as it is controlled by the CANbus instead of old-fashioned last century analog logics.
There are nowadays even units that allow you to switch this in the settings so you don't have to fiddle with the wires.
What you describe looks exactly that.
Did you already check that in your car?
And did you search the web ? As that has already been described in many posts. I don't challenge your intelligence, but you behave rather aggressive when someone asks you very valid questions. Please use your intelligence and please think before you answer.
Yeah, sorry for my bad attitude. This whole mess with ATOTO "support" has me extremely frustrated and I snapped when I shouldn't have. I apologize.
Regarding the power drain, this is a 2002 WRX - it doesn't have a CANbus. The red wire is switched (ON when in ACC/Start/Run), which I verified is working with a multimeter, and the constant is constant. When I switch the key off, the red goes to 0 volts, as it should, the screen turns off, but the S8 keeps drawing between 300 and 700 mA of power, even though deep sleep is supposed to be under 15 mA. If I leave the S8 installed and I don't start my car for 3 days, the battery is down to 10 volts and it won't start. Take the S8 out and it started just fine today after sitting since last Sunday (as one would expect).
I realize that defective units happen, and that would be fine, no big deal. Instead of dealing with that properly, though, ATOTO "support" has jerked me around for 3 months now, making redo the same tests over and over, giving me conflicting information, etc. I bought this in December and I still don't have a working HU in my car.
On top of that, the specs I saw when I bought it said it had aptX (it doesn't, and the advertising has changed), and the normal Bluetooth audio sounds absolutely horrible. Not just "not as good as aptX," but actually terrible. Sounds great if I put in a USB drive with the same music, though. The screen mirroring apps is one of the worst Android apps I have ever used - not just a bad mirroring app, but a terrible app all around (verified by my roommate, who is an android developer), and it won't do audio over the USB, it still requires it over the BT.
Put all that together and I recommend avoiding ATOTO. Your mileage may vary.
This may not apply to the ATOTO, but I believe this is available in many head units...
There is a setting that determines whether the head unit goes to sleep or actually turns off when the power to the unit is turned off. The sleep setting is for those people that want the head unit to immediately turn on when the car is started at a (much) later time...and not go through the normal power on process. I have mine set to always go off to avoid possible battery drain. I'm not sure how much power is used when in sleep but you should check that setting.
Also note that when many head units are turned off, the screen goes off but the head units remain on for a number of minutes until they actually turn off. This extra time can be useful if you had just turned off your car and forgot to do something on the head unit...when you turn the key on it's right where you left it. May be it's set that way to turn off the head unit gracefully, unmount USB, etc. I believe the more recent firmware has settings that can specify how long after power off that the unit actually shuts down.
Additionally, there is or may be another setting, not related to the sleep mode, that determines the on/off behaviour of the head unit...I can't remember the name. For example, if you get in your car and put the key in accessory and listen to the radio for a while, if you then start your car, you may see the head unit turn off and then back on. The setting is used to address this behaviour so that the screen doesn't go off. I think this is also useful for those cars where the engine stops and starts automatically at stop lights...not sure. I think this setting is not obvious and is not named what you would expect. I believe it's under Factory settings or Car Agreement or something like that. Then there is an option there may have the name something like Engine Shutdown Option. May be different in different models (i.e. Joying/TEyes/etc) and different depending on the Canbus module.
Anyway, these are the things that I seem to recall and they may or may not apply to your situation. Have a look at the settings if there is anything similar...Good Luck!
A quick search yields a number of topics for this FYT variant, e.g. https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/atoto-s8-g2-doesnt-sleep-for-5-min-after-key-removal.4414505/
Just as above @mastrv mentions and search results above lists.
Assume OP is saying unit consumes 300mA+ after 5 minutes, however hasn't defined, nor has battery status been empirically defined as good.
What I do know from years of posts on these forums is that the head unit hasn't been the issue. With respect to OP, often the issue is battery or install, install such as swapped acc and +B, or the supplied wiring harness has these swapped.
Fully agree with comments regarding sellers, they're all - not sugar coating it - ****, and make all number of false claims and promises.
theholyhermit said:
Regarding the power drain, this is a 2002 WRX - it doesn't have a CANbus. The red wire is switched (ON when in ACC/Start/Run), which I verified is working with a multimeter, and the constant is constant. When I switch the key off, the red goes to 0 volts, as it should, the screen turns off, but the S8 keeps drawing between 300 and 700 mA of power, even though deep sleep is supposed to be under 15 mA. If I leave the S8 installed and I don't start my car for 3 days, the battery is down to 10 volts and it won't start. Take the S8 out and it started just fine today after sitting since last Sunday (as one would expect).
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Some years ago I had the same with my Skoda and a Joying, but in that case the ACC and CONT were both continuous.
see this work-around document which I have shared by now many times.
I hope it helps.
surfer63 said:
Some years ago I had the same with my Skoda and a Joying, but in that case the ACC and CONT were both continuous.
see this work-around document which I have shared by now many times.
I hope it helps.
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Click to collapse
Thanks for the info, but as I said above, there is no CANbus in a 2002 WRX. The switched ON/ACC behaves exactly as it should and goes to 0v when the key is off. If I then disconnect the wire completely, so that only the constant power is connected, the S8 keeps drawing far, far more current than it should.
mastrv said:
This may not apply to the ATOTO, but I believe this is available in many head units...
There is a setting that determines whether the head unit goes to sleep or actually turns off when the power to the unit is turned off. The sleep setting is for those people that want the head unit to immediately turn on when the car is started at a (much) later time...and not go through the normal power on process. I have mine set to always go off to avoid possible battery drain. I'm not sure how much power is used when in sleep but you should check that setting.
Also note that when many head units are turned off, the screen goes off but the head units remain on for a number of minutes until they actually turn off. This extra time can be useful if you had just turned off your car and forgot to do something on the head unit...when you turn the key on it's right where you left it. May be it's set that way to turn off the head unit gracefully, unmount USB, etc. I believe the more recent firmware has settings that can specify how long after power off that the unit actually shuts down.
Additionally, there is or may be another setting, not related to the sleep mode, that determines the on/off behaviour of the head unit...I can't remember the name. For example, if you get in your car and put the key in accessory and listen to the radio for a while, if you then start your car, you may see the head unit turn off and then back on. The setting is used to address this behaviour so that the screen doesn't go off. I think this is also useful for those cars where the engine stops and starts automatically at stop lights...not sure. I think this setting is not obvious and is not named what you would expect. I believe it's under Factory settings or Car Agreement or something like that. Then there is an option there may have the name something like Engine Shutdown Option. May be different in different models (i.e. Joying/TEyes/etc) and different depending on the Canbus module.
Anyway, these are the things that I seem to recall and they may or may not apply to your situation. Have a look at the settings if there is anything similar...Good Luck!
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I thought there was a setting for deep sleep, too, but I spent half an hour going through every setting I could and I couldn't find it.
This Subaru is of an era where the stereo setup was very simple. No fancy keeping it on until you open the door or that sort of thing. Just plain on and off. My previous DVD deck had no problems and shut off immediately with the key.
I have tested my battery and it is fine, not terribly old. Even leaving the stereo on for 5 minutes after turning the car off wouldn't be enough to drain the battery to prevent starting the car. It takes 3 days or so of sitting (this is my fun car, not my daily driver) with the ATOTO installed to kill off the battery (by kill off, I mean, reduce the charge enough that it won't turn the engine over, it's not flat dead).
theholyhermit said:
I thought there was a setting for deep sleep, too, but I spent half an hour going through every setting I could and I couldn't find it.
This Subaru is of an era where the stereo setup was very simple. No fancy keeping it on until you open the door or that sort of thing. Just plain on and off. My previous DVD deck had no problems and shut off immediately with the key.
I have tested my battery and it is fine, not terribly old. Even leaving the stereo on for 5 minutes after turning the car off wouldn't be enough to drain the battery to prevent starting the car. It takes 3 days or so of sitting (this is my fun car, not my daily driver) with the ATOTO installed to kill off the battery (by kill off, I mean, reduce the charge enough that it won't turn the engine over, it's not flat dead).
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Click to collapse
I don't know if yours has it, and mine is just a generic FYT, but there might be a setting in "Factory" settings that says "Power off when ACC off". Mine is set to "off" but the system still seems to cpompletely power off after my preset time (3 minutes in my case)
Post in thread 'ATOTO S8 - System Contents
If you don't know this already, you can access OEM settings on the ATOTO unit this way:
Settings>System, click this option four times continually>input 3368, you will enter into the OEM Settings
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Click to collapse
Don't do it. I've had TWO Atoto S8's and after a month or so the on-screen navigation bar freezes/stops responding. The only fix is a full-system reset each time so you'll have to keep doing that every 2-3 weeks.
I swapped out my factory Honda Accord 2016 stereo yesterday and the first thing I noticed was when playing audio via bluetooth the audio was abysmal. I tried a different phone, but the issue remained. When I hooked it up via USB while on Android Auto, the sound night/day better quality.
I'm thinking this unit is going back to Amazon.
On 4PDA, I think I saw a post mentioning a bug in one of the MCU firmware, find our which MCU you have (generic is NOR 53 for FYT 1), then try to upgrade it to see if it fixes your problem.
theholyhermit said:
I bought an ATOTO S8 (Gen 2) and it has been an absolute disaster. The thing drains my car battery completely if I don't drive my car for 3 days. I've been fighting with "support" for over 3 months and they keep jerking me around and making me jump through hoops and refusing to actually support their product. Don't waste your time or money.
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Click to collapse
OK, so I just received my S8 Gen 2 Pro 7-inch and this post concerned me.
So I bench tested the unit. No speakers or amp attached, just the antennas and power supply. Everything else including CAN wires disconnected.
I measured the current on the negative lead return to the power supply.
1. Powered up the unit with ACC hot: ran around 900+ mA.
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2. Powered off the unit from the front panel switch, it kept drawing about 700mA
3. I disconnected the ACC wire: after about 1 min the current dropped to 7mA. You can see the disconnected red ACC wire on my finger in the background,
My unit seems to be fine.
vintagephone said:
OK, so I just received my S8 Gen 2 Pro 7-inch and this post concerned me.
So I bench tested the unit. No speakers or amp attached, just the antennas and power supply. Everything else including CAN wires disconnected.
I measured the current on the negative lead return to the power supply.
1. Powered up the unit with ACC hot: ran around 900+ mA.
2. Powered off the unit from the front panel switch, it kept drawing about 700mA
3. I disconnected the ACC wire: after about 1 min the current dropped to 7mA. You can see the disconnected red ACC wire on my finger in the background,
My unit seems to be fine.
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Click to collapse
Great post. Exactly my point
Hi.
I too have just installed the S8 Pro.
As of yet not had a flat battery thank god but it's definately not been plain sailing.
Canbus on the mecedes viano 2011 ignores the addon can us box so turns the stereo off permanently....
I've had to wire the supposed live into the switched fag socket so it works everything I turn the key.....plus I know then its off and dead when I walk away.
The dvd player stays lit for 5 mins or so after switching the unit off but at least it does eventually go off.
Best tip as an auto spark is double check supply wire and switched wires...
Mine go from red as a permanent 12v to yellow and switched wire is yellow going g to red.
If you realy worried about it power the unit from 12v and any switched fag socket you have that way you know its off when you walk away with the keys in your .
Canbus is nothing but a pain in my rear and for the 50 quid just for steering controls and a switched 12v which I've now bypassed a d tge fact the unit only accepts 2 inputs off hour sneering inputs key 1 and 2 its pathetic because you can not bake or end calls which is a basic for most cars these days.
Fingers crossed mine seems to work ok...famous last words although working out how to control the external dvd drive is illumination me at the moment.
Its supposed to read everything but so far all I can do is load and unload the disc.
For the money lots of toys however is it worth it for all the grief and crap fitting of the unit.....I'd look at alternatives tbh.
I have a Navifly cpu uis7862 model M700S with 8-128GB mounted on a 2012 Peugeot 308 eHDI. I wanted to know if anyone knows how to have represented some sort of indication indicating that the machine is doing the regeneration of the FAP. I have no idea and have no experience with programming/electronics. But I think it would be a good thing to have this kind of indication on the monitor of the uis7862. I have already made the change using a pike led strip mounted in the outer mirror, which lights up when the regeneration of the FAP is active. Unfortunately during the day i can not see it, while obviously in the dark i can see immediately. Since I do mostly short routes and mostly during the day I do not know if the strip lights up. And for the above reasons, the regeneration of the FAP is activated quite frequently from day and unfortunately I do not notice it and therefore involuntarily interrupt it by turning off the machine.
So having a flashing written indication, or an "icon" that shows itself during the regeneration of the FAP would be very useful for many users among us who have a diesel car. Or maybe there is already an app for this purpose that I do not know and maybe someone can show it to me
I assume FAP is the Particle filter in your Peugeot? I really had to google for it, which makes your question very specific for your type of car.
If FAP is something else, please explain.
surfer63 said:
I assume FAP is the Particle filter in your Peugeot? I really had to google for it, which makes your question very specific for your type of car.
If FAP is something else, please explain.
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Click to collapse
Yes, I am referring to the Particle filter. But not specifically to Peugeot but for all diesel cars that have it of any brand. When the FAP regenerates, the control unit of the machine activates the heating of the external mirrors and turns on the defrosting of the rear window. Taking advantage of this, connecting a LED (or LED strip) to the contacts of the heater of the external mirror (which serves to defrost it) turns on and then you have the indication of the regeneration in progress. For the reasons of the first post of the day
I do not see even changing the color of the led. Hence my post. I think it could serve many users. I realize that it is perhaps a difficult thing to do, but I posed the problem anyway hoping that someone will have a solution. Or maybe someone has already done it
I think FAP is like a DPF or similar. It looks French (filtre à particules).
Anyway, these units can only show info that the canbus sent to the OEM head unit. If your cars canbus does not send that info over the wiring loom that runs to the head unit then there's no way for the FYT unit to show it.
Most cars only show DPF regeneration as a light on the dash console.
This may be something that shows via your cars ODBII port that would be shown in an app like Torque Pro.
j0hn83 said:
I think FAP is like a DPF or similar. It looks French (filtre à particules).
Anyway, these units can only show info that the canbus sent to the OEM head unit. If your cars canbus does not send that info over the wiring loom that runs to the head unit then there's no way for the FYT unit to show it.
Most cars only show DPF regeneration as a light on the dash console.
This may be something that shows via your cars ODBII port that would be shown in an app like Torque Pro.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, you're right. FAP is very similar to DPF. My canbus does not show this indication, on the other hand I did not even have it with the standard radio. Through the Torque app and ODB2 it can be a solution, but my post was written hoping that on our radio we could have a more direct indication.
Using Torque which indicator should I monitor according to you. I don't think there is a specific indicator, maybe I'm wrong. Do you have any ideas?
Specy01 said:
Using Torque which indicator should I monitor according to you. I don't think there is a specific indicator, maybe I'm wrong. Do you have any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not something I have much experience with. I have only connected my Bluetooth ODBII connector a couple of times.
I just know that the ODBII port shows much much more engine/diagnostics info than the 2 canbus wires that connect to our FYT units.
j0hn83 said:
It's not something I have much experience with. I have only connected my Bluetooth ODBII connector a couple of times.
I just know that the ODBII port shows much much more engine/diagnostics info than the 2 canbus wires that connect to our FYT units.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Meanwhile, I read a thread on a forum for peugeot in which they talk about a specific app for the FAP of peugeot that uses the ODB2. Tomorrow I install it and let you know. I could be satisfied but I would prefer if it is possible, to have something directly on the radio as mentioned before.
j0hn83 said:
I just know that the ODBII port shows much much more engine/diagnostics info than the 2 canbus wires that connect to our FYT units.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am aware of that, but I am not interested in much information about it. The only thing that interests me is to have an indication that tells me that the machine is doing the regeneration, nothing more, the other things are a surplus that I think can be of interest from time to time. Thanks for your help
On my Subaru I use OBD2 running through torque pro, I have loaded custom PIDs which show when DPF regen is active, % soot, mi!es since last regen, total regens, % oil dilution etc all on a single screen.
kommando said:
On my Subaru I use OBD2 running through torque pro, I have loaded custom PIDs which show when DPF regen is active, % soot, mi!es since last regen, total regens, % oil dilution etc all on a single screen.
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Click to collapse
Do you have Torque installed on the uis7862? Can you put a picture of these indicators please.
Specy01 said:
Do you have Torque installed on the uis7862? Can you put a picture of these indicators please.
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Click to collapse
Yes have them on the 7862, I will take a screenshot later.
Tank's you
Snowed in and its too cold to get to the garage. Here is a similar screen to mine.
I’m curious. Why would your heating elements turn on during a dpf regen?
deadeye920 said:
I’m curious. Why would your heating elements turn on during a dpf regen?
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Depends on how the ECU is programmed, some manufacturers have the glow plugs on when a regen is on to increase the initial heatup of the exhaust gases and giving an earlier ignition of the excess fuel, others leave it to just the excess fuel injected after the exhaust valve is opened. If the DPF is very near the engine then it will heat up quickly just from the excess fuel. Jaguar/Land Rover put their DPF too far away and the DPF temps on regen are marginal and there are many issues with their engines and the DPF. Renault/Peugeot inject some chemical called EOLYS into the fuel tank every fill up, when this enters the DPF it lowers the temperature the soot burns off at down from 600C to 400C so passive regens are much more likely. I add this same chemical to my Subaru, I don't get more passive regens as the DPF never exceeds 325C outside a proper regen but the soot is burnt off in half the usual time in a full regen. Eolys is a cerium/iron based solution.
kommando said:
Depends on how the ECU is programmed, some manufacturers have the glow plugs on when a regen is on to increase the initial heatup of the exhaust gases and giving an earlier ignition of the excess fuel, others leave it to just the excess fuel injected after the exhaust valve is opened. If the DPF is very near the engine then it will heat up quickly just from the excess fuel. Jaguar/Land Rover put their DPF too far away and the DPF temps on regen are marginal and there are many issues with their engines and the DPF. Renault/Peugeot inject some chemical called EOLYS into the fuel tank every fill up, when this enters the DPF it lowers the temperature the soot burns off at down from 600C to 400C so passive regens are much more likely. I add this same chemical to my Subaru, I don't get more passive regens as the DPF never exceeds 325C outside a proper regen but the soot is burnt off in half the usual time in a full regen. Eolys is a cerium/iron based solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I get all that but he said the heating elements of his wing mirrors and his rear screen turn on during a dpf regen.
deadeye920 said:
I get all that but he said the heating elements of his wing mirrors and his rear screen turn on during a dpf regen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No idea, Subaru's do not turn heating elements on during active regens.
Googling gets you to
DPF Regeneration active light fitted.
Hi all I hope your all well, Today after reading on the net that some have fitted a warning light to show when the car is in the DPF regeneration mode, I decided to fit one into my drivers side mirror, not sure it will work during dpf regeneration as some say that only the rear heated...
www.peugeotforums.com
Because it needs to be invisible to the user to avoid unnecessary complaints. It's a strategy to increase engine load and therefore DPF temps.
kommando said:
Depends on how the ECU is programmed, some manufacturers have the glow plugs on when a regen is on to increase the initial heatup of the exhaust gases and giving an earlier ignition of the excess fuel, others leave it to just the excess fuel injected after the exhaust valve is opened. If the DPF is very near the engine then it will heat up quickly just from the excess fuel. Jaguar/Land Rover put their DPF too far away and the DPF temps on regen are marginal and there are many issues with their engines and the DPF. Renault/Peugeot inject some chemical called EOLYS into the fuel tank every fill up, when this enters the DPF it lowers the temperature the soot burns off at down from 600C to 400C so passive regens are much more likely. I add this same chemical to my Subaru, I don't get more passive regens as the DPF never exceeds 325C outside a proper regen but the soot is burnt off in half the usual time in a full regen. Eolys is a cerium/iron based solution.
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deadeye920 said:
I get all that but he said the heating elements of his wing mirrors and his rear screen turn on during a dpf regen.
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Congratulations @kommando for your precise explanation.
@deadeye920, I won't be so precise, sorry I'm not a mechanic. I can only tell you that when the FAP regenerates the system tries to increase the electrical absorption of the vehicle and does so by activating the defrosting of the exterior mirrors (right and left), the defrosting of the rear window, the engine cooling fan (and maybe even other things that I ignore). This is because to increase the workload of the engine more to heat more the exhaust gases that burn the particulate matter in the FAP (around 450 ° C.
I'm not talking about DPF but maybe FAP is different. This occurs on Peugeot, Citroen and Renault almost certainly, for others Marco I could not tell you
Based on the forum link I added FAP=DPF .
@kommando I like this photo it is very interesting, but this requires that the ODB2 is always connected to the ODB socket. It can be useful and I will try it. I will also try the app "fap lite Citroen/peugeot" and I will let you know, it could be useful to someone