Plan on upgrading my old truck with an Android headunit and saw ATOTO, anyone knows about this brand?
tillthedark said:
Plan on upgrading my old truck with an Android headunit and saw ATOTO, anyone knows about this brand?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Own a S8 Premium of this brand for almost 4 months now and still works good.
Recommendations for the 10″. You can make phone calls (check local laws), access your music, receive messages and get directions . You are not always going to be limited to either Android or Apple now or in the future. With the AutoLink option, you can also cast what's on your phone screen to S8's display.
I bought an ATOTO S8 (Gen 2) and it has been an absolute disaster. The thing drains my car battery completely if I don't drive my car for 3 days. I've been fighting with "support" for over 3 months and they keep jerking me around and making me jump through hoops and refusing to actually support their product. Don't waste your time or money.
theholyhermit said:
I bought an ATOTO S8 (Gen 2) and it has been an absolute disaster. The thing drains my car battery completely if I don't drive my car for 3 days. I've been fighting with "support" for over 3 months and they keep jerking me around and making me jump through hoops and refusing to actually support their product. Don't waste your time or money.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you read others on these forums complaining if the same issues you have.
You don't say how it was installed, with/out canbus and what you have tried to resolve the problems. So one could conclude user/install issue.
marchnz said:
Do you read others on these forums complaining if the same issues you have.
You don't say how it was installed, with/out canbus and what you have tried to resolve the problems. So one could conclude user/install issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One could conclude that if one wanted to assume that I am an idiot, which I am not. Thanks for the insult, though. I've been installing car stereos for many years. This vehicle has one of the most straightforward setups ever. The head unit doesn't deep sleep, it keeps pulling huge amounts of current, even with the key off, thereby killing the battery. Electricity 101.
theholyhermit said:
One could conclude that if one wanted to assume that I am an idiot, which I am not. Thanks for the insult, though. I've been installing car stereos for many years. This vehicle has one of the most straightforward setups ever. The head unit doesn't deep sleep, it keeps pulling huge amounts of current, even with the key off, thereby killing the battery. Electricity 101.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Post details instead of diatribe if you want others to help.
theholyhermit said:
One could conclude that if one wanted to assume that I am an idiot, which I am not. Thanks for the insult, though. I've been installing car stereos for many years. This vehicle has one of the most straightforward setups ever. The head unit doesn't deep sleep, it keeps pulling huge amounts of current, even with the key off, thereby killing the battery. Electricity 101.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have been installing these systems for years, then you would have known by now that the 12V continuous and 12V ACC are sometimes switched nowadays as it is controlled by the CANbus instead of old-fashioned last century analog logics.
There are nowadays even units that allow you to switch this in the settings so you don't have to fiddle with the wires.
What you describe looks exactly that.
Did you already check that in your car?
And did you search the web ? As that has already been described in many posts. I don't challenge your intelligence, but you behave rather aggressive when someone asks you very valid questions. Please use your intelligence and please think before you answer.
Yeah, sorry for my bad attitude. This whole mess with ATOTO "support" has me extremely frustrated and I snapped when I shouldn't have. I apologize.
Regarding the power drain, this is a 2002 WRX - it doesn't have a CANbus. The red wire is switched (ON when in ACC/Start/Run), which I verified is working with a multimeter, and the constant is constant. When I switch the key off, the red goes to 0 volts, as it should, the screen turns off, but the S8 keeps drawing between 300 and 700 mA of power, even though deep sleep is supposed to be under 15 mA. If I leave the S8 installed and I don't start my car for 3 days, the battery is down to 10 volts and it won't start. Take the S8 out and it started just fine today after sitting since last Sunday (as one would expect).
I realize that defective units happen, and that would be fine, no big deal. Instead of dealing with that properly, though, ATOTO "support" has jerked me around for 3 months now, making redo the same tests over and over, giving me conflicting information, etc. I bought this in December and I still don't have a working HU in my car.
On top of that, the specs I saw when I bought it said it had aptX (it doesn't, and the advertising has changed), and the normal Bluetooth audio sounds absolutely horrible. Not just "not as good as aptX," but actually terrible. Sounds great if I put in a USB drive with the same music, though. The screen mirroring apps is one of the worst Android apps I have ever used - not just a bad mirroring app, but a terrible app all around (verified by my roommate, who is an android developer), and it won't do audio over the USB, it still requires it over the BT.
Put all that together and I recommend avoiding ATOTO. Your mileage may vary.
This may not apply to the ATOTO, but I believe this is available in many head units...
There is a setting that determines whether the head unit goes to sleep or actually turns off when the power to the unit is turned off. The sleep setting is for those people that want the head unit to immediately turn on when the car is started at a (much) later time...and not go through the normal power on process. I have mine set to always go off to avoid possible battery drain. I'm not sure how much power is used when in sleep but you should check that setting.
Also note that when many head units are turned off, the screen goes off but the head units remain on for a number of minutes until they actually turn off. This extra time can be useful if you had just turned off your car and forgot to do something on the head unit...when you turn the key on it's right where you left it. May be it's set that way to turn off the head unit gracefully, unmount USB, etc. I believe the more recent firmware has settings that can specify how long after power off that the unit actually shuts down.
Additionally, there is or may be another setting, not related to the sleep mode, that determines the on/off behaviour of the head unit...I can't remember the name. For example, if you get in your car and put the key in accessory and listen to the radio for a while, if you then start your car, you may see the head unit turn off and then back on. The setting is used to address this behaviour so that the screen doesn't go off. I think this is also useful for those cars where the engine stops and starts automatically at stop lights...not sure. I think this setting is not obvious and is not named what you would expect. I believe it's under Factory settings or Car Agreement or something like that. Then there is an option there may have the name something like Engine Shutdown Option. May be different in different models (i.e. Joying/TEyes/etc) and different depending on the Canbus module.
Anyway, these are the things that I seem to recall and they may or may not apply to your situation. Have a look at the settings if there is anything similar...Good Luck!
A quick search yields a number of topics for this FYT variant, e.g. https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/atoto-s8-g2-doesnt-sleep-for-5-min-after-key-removal.4414505/
Just as above @mastrv mentions and search results above lists.
Assume OP is saying unit consumes 300mA+ after 5 minutes, however hasn't defined, nor has battery status been empirically defined as good.
What I do know from years of posts on these forums is that the head unit hasn't been the issue. With respect to OP, often the issue is battery or install, install such as swapped acc and +B, or the supplied wiring harness has these swapped.
Fully agree with comments regarding sellers, they're all - not sugar coating it - ****, and make all number of false claims and promises.
theholyhermit said:
Regarding the power drain, this is a 2002 WRX - it doesn't have a CANbus. The red wire is switched (ON when in ACC/Start/Run), which I verified is working with a multimeter, and the constant is constant. When I switch the key off, the red goes to 0 volts, as it should, the screen turns off, but the S8 keeps drawing between 300 and 700 mA of power, even though deep sleep is supposed to be under 15 mA. If I leave the S8 installed and I don't start my car for 3 days, the battery is down to 10 volts and it won't start. Take the S8 out and it started just fine today after sitting since last Sunday (as one would expect).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some years ago I had the same with my Skoda and a Joying, but in that case the ACC and CONT were both continuous.
see this work-around document which I have shared by now many times.
I hope it helps.
surfer63 said:
Some years ago I had the same with my Skoda and a Joying, but in that case the ACC and CONT were both continuous.
see this work-around document which I have shared by now many times.
I hope it helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info, but as I said above, there is no CANbus in a 2002 WRX. The switched ON/ACC behaves exactly as it should and goes to 0v when the key is off. If I then disconnect the wire completely, so that only the constant power is connected, the S8 keeps drawing far, far more current than it should.
mastrv said:
This may not apply to the ATOTO, but I believe this is available in many head units...
There is a setting that determines whether the head unit goes to sleep or actually turns off when the power to the unit is turned off. The sleep setting is for those people that want the head unit to immediately turn on when the car is started at a (much) later time...and not go through the normal power on process. I have mine set to always go off to avoid possible battery drain. I'm not sure how much power is used when in sleep but you should check that setting.
Also note that when many head units are turned off, the screen goes off but the head units remain on for a number of minutes until they actually turn off. This extra time can be useful if you had just turned off your car and forgot to do something on the head unit...when you turn the key on it's right where you left it. May be it's set that way to turn off the head unit gracefully, unmount USB, etc. I believe the more recent firmware has settings that can specify how long after power off that the unit actually shuts down.
Additionally, there is or may be another setting, not related to the sleep mode, that determines the on/off behaviour of the head unit...I can't remember the name. For example, if you get in your car and put the key in accessory and listen to the radio for a while, if you then start your car, you may see the head unit turn off and then back on. The setting is used to address this behaviour so that the screen doesn't go off. I think this is also useful for those cars where the engine stops and starts automatically at stop lights...not sure. I think this setting is not obvious and is not named what you would expect. I believe it's under Factory settings or Car Agreement or something like that. Then there is an option there may have the name something like Engine Shutdown Option. May be different in different models (i.e. Joying/TEyes/etc) and different depending on the Canbus module.
Anyway, these are the things that I seem to recall and they may or may not apply to your situation. Have a look at the settings if there is anything similar...Good Luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought there was a setting for deep sleep, too, but I spent half an hour going through every setting I could and I couldn't find it.
This Subaru is of an era where the stereo setup was very simple. No fancy keeping it on until you open the door or that sort of thing. Just plain on and off. My previous DVD deck had no problems and shut off immediately with the key.
I have tested my battery and it is fine, not terribly old. Even leaving the stereo on for 5 minutes after turning the car off wouldn't be enough to drain the battery to prevent starting the car. It takes 3 days or so of sitting (this is my fun car, not my daily driver) with the ATOTO installed to kill off the battery (by kill off, I mean, reduce the charge enough that it won't turn the engine over, it's not flat dead).
theholyhermit said:
I thought there was a setting for deep sleep, too, but I spent half an hour going through every setting I could and I couldn't find it.
This Subaru is of an era where the stereo setup was very simple. No fancy keeping it on until you open the door or that sort of thing. Just plain on and off. My previous DVD deck had no problems and shut off immediately with the key.
I have tested my battery and it is fine, not terribly old. Even leaving the stereo on for 5 minutes after turning the car off wouldn't be enough to drain the battery to prevent starting the car. It takes 3 days or so of sitting (this is my fun car, not my daily driver) with the ATOTO installed to kill off the battery (by kill off, I mean, reduce the charge enough that it won't turn the engine over, it's not flat dead).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if yours has it, and mine is just a generic FYT, but there might be a setting in "Factory" settings that says "Power off when ACC off". Mine is set to "off" but the system still seems to cpompletely power off after my preset time (3 minutes in my case)
Post in thread 'ATOTO S8 - System Contents
If you don't know this already, you can access OEM settings on the ATOTO unit this way:
Settings>System, click this option four times continually>input 3368, you will enter into the OEM Settings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't do it. I've had TWO Atoto S8's and after a month or so the on-screen navigation bar freezes/stops responding. The only fix is a full-system reset each time so you'll have to keep doing that every 2-3 weeks.
I swapped out my factory Honda Accord 2016 stereo yesterday and the first thing I noticed was when playing audio via bluetooth the audio was abysmal. I tried a different phone, but the issue remained. When I hooked it up via USB while on Android Auto, the sound night/day better quality.
I'm thinking this unit is going back to Amazon.
On 4PDA, I think I saw a post mentioning a bug in one of the MCU firmware, find our which MCU you have (generic is NOR 53 for FYT 1), then try to upgrade it to see if it fixes your problem.
theholyhermit said:
I bought an ATOTO S8 (Gen 2) and it has been an absolute disaster. The thing drains my car battery completely if I don't drive my car for 3 days. I've been fighting with "support" for over 3 months and they keep jerking me around and making me jump through hoops and refusing to actually support their product. Don't waste your time or money.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, so I just received my S8 Gen 2 Pro 7-inch and this post concerned me.
So I bench tested the unit. No speakers or amp attached, just the antennas and power supply. Everything else including CAN wires disconnected.
I measured the current on the negative lead return to the power supply.
1. Powered up the unit with ACC hot: ran around 900+ mA.
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2. Powered off the unit from the front panel switch, it kept drawing about 700mA
3. I disconnected the ACC wire: after about 1 min the current dropped to 7mA. You can see the disconnected red ACC wire on my finger in the background,
My unit seems to be fine.
vintagephone said:
OK, so I just received my S8 Gen 2 Pro 7-inch and this post concerned me.
So I bench tested the unit. No speakers or amp attached, just the antennas and power supply. Everything else including CAN wires disconnected.
I measured the current on the negative lead return to the power supply.
1. Powered up the unit with ACC hot: ran around 900+ mA.
2. Powered off the unit from the front panel switch, it kept drawing about 700mA
3. I disconnected the ACC wire: after about 1 min the current dropped to 7mA. You can see the disconnected red ACC wire on my finger in the background,
My unit seems to be fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great post. Exactly my point
Hi.
I too have just installed the S8 Pro.
As of yet not had a flat battery thank god but it's definately not been plain sailing.
Canbus on the mecedes viano 2011 ignores the addon can us box so turns the stereo off permanently....
I've had to wire the supposed live into the switched fag socket so it works everything I turn the key.....plus I know then its off and dead when I walk away.
The dvd player stays lit for 5 mins or so after switching the unit off but at least it does eventually go off.
Best tip as an auto spark is double check supply wire and switched wires...
Mine go from red as a permanent 12v to yellow and switched wire is yellow going g to red.
If you realy worried about it power the unit from 12v and any switched fag socket you have that way you know its off when you walk away with the keys in your .
Canbus is nothing but a pain in my rear and for the 50 quid just for steering controls and a switched 12v which I've now bypassed a d tge fact the unit only accepts 2 inputs off hour sneering inputs key 1 and 2 its pathetic because you can not bake or end calls which is a basic for most cars these days.
Fingers crossed mine seems to work ok...famous last words although working out how to control the external dvd drive is illumination me at the moment.
Its supposed to read everything but so far all I can do is load and unload the disc.
For the money lots of toys however is it worth it for all the grief and crap fitting of the unit.....I'd look at alternatives tbh.
Related
Disclaimer: This thread is just meant to help note 3 future buyers. All things listed are just minor inconveniences. The note3 is the best electronic device I've ever used to date. I think it's the best phone to date. The below pertain to the Qualcomm Snapdragon 800 model of the Note3; users of the Exynos model may have different results:
The good things about the phone are many. This part is not meant to list them, because you probably already know them.
Having said that, here are the things I've noticed so far (My phone is Qualcomm Snapdragon model with 32gb):
The phone gets somewhat warm at the back (above the samsung logo and below camera) during some usage. [Update: Temperature has been improved in my second day with the phone. It still gets a 5-7 degrees warmer while using the camera or intensive browsing, but nothing to worry about imo]
The home button is not firm in its place. It moves in its socket (much prone than it was on the note2)
The volume rocker on the left of the phone is placed higher than on the note2 (whether this is good or bad is up to you).
***UPDATE***
There is a noticeable and ugly pop sound followed by a static noise whenever the audio stops while using the AUX port in my car. When the audio starts again, the sound disappears completely. When audio stops or gets paused, it's fine for 3 seconds and then the pop sound hits again followed by the static noise. [I'll have to test this using another aux cable before confirming on this one though so don't quote me. The aux cable I'm using is one year old, $12 from radio shack]
There is an ever so slight gap between the frame and the glass on the top and bottom (the gap is a bit bigger at the bottom than on the top) which accumulates dust particles. The sides don't have any noticable gaps, at least in my phone. To be honest though, the issue is much less noticeable than it was on my note 2 (my note 2 had gaps on both sides as well as top and bottom), and you can't see it unless you deliberately look for it.
Charger is now much harder to both plug in and plug out of the phone (thanks riz157). This is actually an advantage for me since Note2's usb wire that came with the note2 would get detached very easily from the slightest of movement. However, one disadvantage of the new wire comes in the form that it is now more difficult to plug-in in the dark; the hole is a much tighter fit now.
The S-pen is not flush with the back cover like it was with the note2. It is now protruding by like 1millimeter. This is just a silly point, but I decided to throw it in. It is also somewhat harder to get out (thanks ipkryss for pointing this out), but it is easier to put back in (you can now put it back in in two different ways, as opposed to note2 which accepted only one way). The pen itself is thinner, looks more premium, and feels better in the hands than before.
***UPDATE***
Unfortunately, updating the Youtube app to the new version seems to break the functionality of the Scrapbooker feature that enables you to save Youtube videos in your Scrapbook.
You'll have to go to Youtube's application info and click "Uninstall updates" to revert back to the Youtube's old version if you want it to work.
It's one of the most interesting features for me when it comes to Scrapbook, so I hope they make it compatible with the new Youtube soon.
*** There seems to be a glitch where my phone would start only utilizing CPU1,CPU2 and CPU3&4 would remain "offline" no matter what you throw on the phone. This has happened a total of three times on my phone and was fixed with a simple reboot on all three occassions (Had the phone since 5 days now).
To put things into perspective, my Quadrant score on this phone is around ~22,000. When the glitch was triggered, Quadrant score was ~13,400 (which is still higher than the second highest score that belong to HTC One)
I can't replicate the issue because I haven't the faintest clue what triggers it. Not to alarm people, this might only exclusive to the ROM in my phone, as I haven't seen anyone else report it yet, and it seems to be a rare occurrence. If more users of the S800 model can chime in and track this on their phones (for a period of at least 2-3 days) I'd appreciate it. If it does turn out to be an issue with all S800 models and not just specific to my ROM, notifying Samsung should get it easily fixed with an update.
USB 3.0 Vs. USB 2.0:
Using a stopwatch, I set out to calculate the transfer duration of a 5.64GB from my PC to the internal memory of the phone:
First test: using USB 2.0 cable (Media device MTP connection), USB 2.0 port on my PC, File size 5.64GB.
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TRANSFER DURATION: 00:03:15 (195 seconds)
Second test: using USB 3.0 cable that came with the phone (Media Device USB 3.0 connection), USB 3.0 port on my PC, File Size 5.64GB (exact same file to the exact same location on phone) [Warning: using USB 3.0 might interfere with data connection&calls]
TRANSFER DURATION: 00:01:37 (97 seconds)
BATTERY STATS:
So I bought phone yesterday evening. Charged it overnight. It was 100% when I woke up at 6:25am to get ready for work.
Enabled data (3g HSPA though, not 4g). Data was enabled for the whole day. The phone was on wifi for only 5-10minutes in the morning--ignore the bar in the second screenshot which shows that WIFI was on for the whole time. That may be a software bug.
The brightness was on Auto and on the middle of the Automatic brightness adjustment bar for the whole duration.
Phone Usage Included:
Chatting on whatsapp
Using XDA forum app
Reading some tech news using Appy Geek app
Installing around 20 apps from the Google Play Store
Listening to music to and from work through AUX port in car
Fiddling around with the phone from time to time --testing Air command, browser .. stuff like that
By around 10pm, the battery was around 33%. I began running YouTube videos on HQ, with max volume, and on 3g for a total of around two hours.
Finally, the battery dropped down to 7%.
* Disclaimer: The usage did not include extremely battery-hungry tasks, such as playing games or running benchmarks. GPS and Bluetooth were off. Air gestures and such 'gimmicky' features were off, as I don't really use them. Note that your Note3 battery life might/will differ depending on usage and whether you're on WIFI or 4g.
*** Charging Speed (using AC adapter): Around 47 - 48% / hour. I plugged my phone when it was 5% at 12:36 am, by 1:36 am it was up to 53%. ***
And below are the results:
Verdict: the battery life is fantastic. Enough said. If my usage didn't include running Youtube videos, then the screen-on time would have probably been more than 7 hours. Note that this is on the first charge cycle of the battery. To make it short, it will easily last you a full day if you're a heavy user, and more than a day if you're a light user. Keep in mind that screenshots were taken when battery was 7%, so it still had some "juice" in it left
OFF-TOPIC: I know I said I wouldn't mention the good parts of the phone, but I have to say that the display on this phone is lovely and to me a worthy upgrade to the Note2's. The blacks are BLACK. So much so, that if you open a completely black screen on the phone, and go in a pitch dark room, the phone will be completely invisible because it blends perfectly with the dark. As a point of comparison, my Note2 looked greyesh in a completely dark room.
The whites are improved as well over the Note2, they now look more "milky" if that makes sense.
MohJee said:
Disclaimer: This thread is just meant to help note 3 future buyers. All things listed are just minor inconveniences. The note3 is the best electronic device I've ever used to date. I think it's the best phone to date.
The good things about the phone are many. This thread is not meant to list them, because you probably already know them.
Having said that, here are the things I've noticed so far (phone is qualcomm model with 32gb if anyone is interested btw):
- The phone gets somewhat warm at the back (above the samsung logo and below camera) during some usage.
- The home button is not firm in its place. It moves in its socket (much prone than it was on the note2)
- The volume rocker on the left of the phone is placed higher than on the note2 (whether this is good or bad is up to you).
Will update this thread if I find anything else. Doubt there will be many, if any ,more though. For anyone else who has the phone, feel free to contribute.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No need to apologize for constructive criticism, the best way to learn about a device is to know what's not working well, everything else is just for comfort.
Please state your device number and system-on-chip on board.
Here
How is the audio jack signal?
Is it clean or do you hear a crackling or "noise" when you pause an audio track?
Also what headphones are using, what track, what type of recording, what volume level?
Are you using a headphone amp to power the headphones etc..
grifter9931 said:
How is the audio jack signal?
Is it clean or do you hear a crackling or "noise" when you pause an audio track?
Also what headphones are using, what track, what type of recording, what volume level?
Are you using a headphone amp to power the headphones etc..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried the ear phones that come with the device (which are improved from the ones that come with the note2 btw -- they have the noodle-like cable now) and to be honest I didn't hear any crackling sound or noise when playing or pausing the audio.
MohJee said:
I've tried the ear phones that come with the device (which are improved from the ones that come with the note2 btw -- they have the noodle-like cable now) and to be honest I didn't hear any crackling sound or noise when playing or pausing the audio.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you turn the volume all they way up and hit pause, if you don't hear any "noise" then at least the headphone jack has a clean signal..
Thanks!!
grifter9931 said:
Can you turn the volume all they way up and hit pause, if you don't hear any "noise" then at least the headphone jack has a clean signal..
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok.. I went into a completely silent area and turned volume to max with audio paused. There might be something there, but if there is then my ear is too weak to pick it up, because I can't decide if there is really some faint sound or my mind is imagining things.
To be verified by some other user... I might not be the best test subject when it comes to audio
MohJee said:
Ok.. I went into a completely silent area and turned volume to max with audio paused. There might be something there, but if there is then my ear is too weak to pick it up, because I can't decide if there is really some faint sound or my mind is imagining things.
To be verified by some other user... I might not be the best test subject when it comes to audio
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's all good man, thank you for testing it out. I have pretty good monitors and I will test them as well. But if you didn't hear something noticeable chances are its there is none..
Please mention your phone processor type (Snapdragon or Exynos) when you share your critics about this phone.
Perhaps some problems are exclusives on a spesific type
azhurvadal said:
Please mention your phone processor type (Snapdragon or Exynos) when you share your critics about this phone.
Perhaps some problems are exclusives on a spesific type
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I already mentioned that I'm using qualcomm 32gb model (qualcomm snapdragon N9005)
MohJee said:
I already mentioned that I'm using qualcomm 32gb model (qualcomm snapdragon N9005)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know you did.
I meant it for other note 3 owners who will share their critics in this thread
MohJee said:
Disclaimer: This thread is just meant to help note 3 future buyers. All things listed are just minor inconveniences. The note3 is the best electronic device I've ever used to date. I think it's the best phone to date.
The good things about the phone are many. This thread is not meant to list them, because you probably already know them.
Having said that, here are the things I've noticed so far (phone is qualcomm model with 32gb if anyone is interested btw):
- The phone gets somewhat warm at the back (above the samsung logo and below camera) during some usage [this could very well be the result of the constant updating in the background since it's still a new phone]
- The home button is not firm in its place. It moves in its socket (much prone than it was on the note2)
- The volume rocker on the left of the phone is placed higher than on the note2 (whether this is good or bad is up to you).
Will update this thread if I find anything else. Doubt there will be many, if any ,more though. For anyone else who has the phone, feel free to contribute.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The home button on my is fine but the s4 I had used to have with a wobbly home button so suspect it's a generic issue with build quality.
Audio is massively better than the s4 in terms of volume and quality
you have to use quite bit force to disconnect charger and headphone, anyone else noticed that?
riz157 said:
you have to use quite bit force to disconnect charger and headphone, anyone else noticed that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both should loosen up with use.
@rbiter said:
Both should loosen up with use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
*giggidy*
What about bluetooth connectivity? Any WiFi interference issues? I've seen reports of the Note II suffering from this with certain headsets.
With my nail-bitten fingers its impossible for me to get my pen out! i need to use my teeth or ask somebody else.. damn. I hope it'll loosen up a little bit, or this might be a great opportunity to stop biting my nails!
Anyone else have this issue?
MohJee said:
- The phone gets somewhat warm at the back (above the samsung logo and below camera) during some usage [this could very well be the result of the constant updating in the background since it's still a new phone]
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm accustomed to this, as my Epic 4G Touch accumulates heat in the same area It's likely where the processor is located.
I'll add what I can next week when mine arrives... hopefully I won't have much to add
I went to a store here in Sweden to try one. Sweden's getting the S800 variant. I got to use the first note 3 they had in stock, before it was even tethered to the bench with the rest of the phones. Booted it, skipped all the setup screens etc. Just messed around with features for 10 minutes.
I was looking for "lag" or stuttering in the the UI as the S4 has. It was rare, but it happened when scrolling the widget filled homescreen once or twice (out of 20-30 times). Didn't slow down the animation, the animation just seemed to drop a couple frames.
Still want it though, unless a deal breaker shows up in this thread.
Just bloody expensive in Sweden. Unlocked and off contract is 1000-1100 dollars depending on the store.
What is the call quality like? Also what is reception like? This will be my home and personal phone so I need that part of it to work well.
Hi all. As written my sm-t905 has this strange wifi problem. Tried on different networks and same results
Tried a lot of different custom and official roms and same results
Worked on every wifi settings and same results
Wifi is stable only when tablet is on charge
Some suggestions?
Thx :good:
I had almost the same problem, not like you though but on lower than 60% battery it had this problem of disconnecting then not going to turn on! check the battery connection and everything, all were good.
the wifi chipset is problematic in many of Samsung devices, try dialing *#0011# to go to service menu then wlan and then disable saving battery mode, (it will deplete your battery way faster than before, be sure to turnoff wifi when not using it!) mine had problem before that, now only being on airplane mode and then wifi on works otherwise wifi chipset stuck on turning on... forever. check other threads , many people have the same pronblem with no workaround. replacing mobo works.
did install many Roms, all the same, so stuck to stock Touchwiz lollipop that still there is a workaround for having a working wifi.
never going to buy Samsung ever again.
skylive3d said:
I had almost the same problem, not like you though but on lower than 60% battery it had this problem of disconnecting then not going to turn on! check the battery connection and everything, all were good.
the wifi chipset is problematic in many of Samsung devices, try dialing *#0011# to go to service menu then wlan and then disable saving battery mode, (it will deplete your battery way faster than before, be sure to turnoff wifi when not using it!) mine had problem before that, now only being on airplane mode and then wifi on works otherwise wifi chipset stuck on turning on... forever. check other threads , many people have the same pronblem with no workaround. replacing mobo works.
did install many Roms, all the same, so stuck to stock Touchwiz lollipop that still there is a workaround for having a working wifi.
never going to buy Samsung ever again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I checked and the same for me...it starts to disconnect under 60% battery level
Unluckly with *#0011# code it doesn't go on the wifi menu. It does nothing! Not even with *#06# is possibe to look at the imei number(but imei is normally written in the info menu). It seems it doesn't get codes at all from dialer
What could I do to enter in the hiden wifi menu?
Now I'll try to open it to check the battery connection but I find it really strange that a lot of people as the same wifi problems
Thanks in advance
This is a common flaw in Samsung tablets , not only this model but others as well. It's very easy to fix but most users don't realize the problem due to lacking of technical understanding or equipment: microscope and solder iron to resolder battery connector.
1- The first fix is easy, most average users can do it: fixing the loose battery cables. This model has intermittent power, battery capacity fluctuation.....etc.. due to loose battery cable
https://forums.androidcentral.com/s...350-goes-continual-boot-loop.html#post5928150
2- The second one requires soldering skill which most don't know how. However, you can get it done from the help of a repair shop or anyone knows how to solder
Most Samsung tablets, especially the 10.1 or 12.2, have the cracked solder joints of battery connector due to loose mainboard which has only few screws to secure it.
The Note Pro has only 3 screws at two speakers to hold the mainboard which sits on top of a flexible LCD.
If you take my advice seriously and fixing these two battery connectors, you'll solve any problem related to power.
This flaw is very obvious but I see a lot of people ignore it and try to do something else and keep complaining about the problem of Samsung tablets.
After take care of these connectors, your tablet may last another 2 years until the mainboard goes bad.
Beut said:
This is a common flaw in Samsung tablets , not only this model but others as well. It's very easy to fix but most users don't realize the problem due to lacking of technical understanding or equipment: microscope and solder iron to resolder battery connector.
1- The first fix is easy, most average users can do it: fixing the loose battery cables. This model has intermittent power, battery capacity fluctuation.....etc.. due to loose battery cable
https://forums.androidcentral.com/s...350-goes-continual-boot-loop.html#post5928150
2- The second one requires soldering skill which most don't know how. However, you can get it done from the help of a repair shop or anyone knows how to solder
Most Samsung tablets, especially the 10.1 or 12.2, have the cracked solder joints of battery connector due to loose mainboard which has only few screws to secure it.
The Note Pro has only 3 screws at two speakers to hold the mainboard which sits on top of a flexible LCD.
If you take my advice seriously and fixing these two battery connectors, you'll solve any problem related to power.
This flaw is very obvious but I see a lot of people ignore it and try to do something else and keep complaining about the problem of Samsung tablets.
After take care of these connectors, your tablet may last another 2 years until the mainboard goes bad.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Finally the solution! That's amazing! Thank's a lot! :fingers-crossed:
P.s: I opened the back cover and battery connector seems to be ok but I can't be sure about it. In the next days I will take it to a repairing lab to ask how much can it cost to re-soldering the connector. I wish it will be cheap cause i coudn't do it by myself. My solderer has not enough small spot and I wouldn't buy a new one just for this fix... Beut,do you know how much could it be a reasonable price for such workaround? Thanks
freccia said:
Finally the solution! That's amazing! Thank's a lot! :fingers-crossed:
P.s: I opened the back cover and battery connector seems to be ok but I can't be sure about it. In the next days I will take it to a repairing lab to ask how much can it cost to re-soldering the connector. I wish it will be cheap cause i coudn't do it by myself. My solderer has not enough small spot and I wouldn't buy a new one just for this fix... Beut,do you know how much could it be a reasonable price for such workaround? Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a phenomenal problem of Samsung tablets especially this Note Pro or Tab Pro. Battery connector is not supposed to be a moving part, that's why minimum solder is needed.
However, look at the mainboard you'll see it's weakly secured to the frame sit on top of the flexible LCD. In order to see the cracks under neath of the connector, you'll need a power microscope.
This a fix from a Samsung Repair Center who is contractor, authorized to fix Samsung tablets
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Both connectors are fixed but they soldered the cables directly to connector on mainboard. Without knowing this, an innocent users will break both connectors when trying to replace the battery.
Trust me, over hundreds of Note Pro or Tab Pro I bought, only a few can pass my test. I actually push the connector by screw driver to see if it's not moving.
Here was a lot of 7 Note Pro I bought, all had the same problem that connectors need to be fixed
I don't know how much they charge in your area but this work takes only 5 minutes with a professional.
Beut said:
This is a phenomenal problem of Samsung tablets especially this Note Pro or Tab Pro. Battery connector is not supposed to be a moving part, that's why minimum solder is needed.
However, look at the mainboard you'll see it's weakly secured to the frame sit on top of the flexible LCD. In order to see the cracks under neath of the connector, you'll need a power microscope.
This a fix from a Samsung Repair Center who is contractor, authorized to fix Samsung tablets
Both connectors are fixed but they soldered the cables directly to connector on mainboard. Without knowing this, an innocent users will break both connectors when trying to replace the battery.
Trust me, over hundreds of Note Pro or Tab Pro I bought, only a few can pass my test. I actually push the connector by screw driver to see if it's not moving.
Here was a lot of 7 Note Pro I bought, all had the same problem that connectors need to be fixed
I don't know how much they charge in your area but this work takes only 5 minutes with a professional.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You really made my day. As first cause i laugh looking how the samsung lab worked on that poor connector. At last cause I really understand the problem and how to workaround on it! It's unbelievable that a 1000$ device didn't receive enough care about a simple connection soldering by the factory... you deserve success in your refurbishment of note pro lot. :good:
Have good time! Bye
This is an example of a badly cracked battery connector.
I will explain your power problem just based on Ohm law of parallel circuit. Battery of P900 or P905 has two cells connected in parallel : two red ( positive) and black ( negative ) cables.
V (total) = V1 = V2
However,
I ( total ) = I1 + I2
P( total )= P1+ P2
If one pin or one cable of positive is suddenly open, you lost half of battery power. That's why you can see battery drops quickly in few minutes, then moment later
or after a reboot, it go back to previous percentage. If two positive or negative are open, you have no power.
The question is why then it only affect wifi chipset? no slow charging or fast discharging battery problem, no flickering , no sudden turnoff!
everything fine except BT and Wifi, cause they are on the same chip. after turning off the save battery mode on wifi, it works even on 20%
I checked the connection several times, all were fine.
If only the OP re-soldering worked then I will accept your view on the cause of the problem.
I never run custom ROM so I don't know if this's problem from its firmware. All Note Pros were in my possession, running stock ROM, have never had Wifi dropping while at low charge or not connected to a charger.
My first action to any of this tablet is fixing these two connectors regardless their condition, because sooner or later, they will fail: one or both.
Bluetooth and Wifi are not related as they have separated components and circuit.
Beut said:
This is an example of a badly cracked battery connector.
I will explain your power problem just based on Ohm law of parallel circuit. Battery of P900 or P905 has two cells connected in parallel : two red ( positive) and black ( negative ) cables.
V (total) = V1 = V2
However,
I ( total ) = I1 + I2
P( total )= P1+ P2
If one pin or one cable of positive is suddenly open, you lost half of battery power. That's why you can see battery drops quickly in few minutes, then moment later
or after a reboot, it go back to previous percentage. If two positive or negative are open, you have no power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you focus the question. it's exactly as you write. Luckly in my case it was only a bad contact cause after cleaning connector and pins with alchol it started to work normally. Now I really enjoy it and i'm thanksfull to you cause you pointed me on the right way!:good:
Beut said:
I never run custom ROM so I don't know if this's problem from its firmware. All Note Pros were in my possession, running stock ROM, have never had Wifi dropping while at low charge or not connected to a charger.
My first action to any of this tablet is fixing these two connectors regardless their condition, because sooner or later, they will fail: one or both.
Bluetooth and Wifi are not related as they have separated components and circuit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not depending from rom. As you said it's connector-electric problem. It made this on each rom I runned
cheers mate!
skylive3d said:
The question is why then it only affect wifi chipset? no slow charging or fast discharging battery problem, no flickering , no sudden turnoff!
everything fine except BT and Wifi, cause they are on the same chip. after turning off the save battery mode on wifi, it works even on 20%
I checked the connection several times, all were fine.
If only the OP re-soldering worked then I will accept your view on the cause of the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you have to belive him. I read some case of people with flickering and rebooting problem cause bad power connector soldering. :fingers-crossed:
In each case problem was solved with resoldering(in the worst cases) or cleaning(in best cases) connector and pins. You can't know exactly what a lower power (cause missing part of parallel connection) could affect in different devices
cheers
freccia said:
you focus the question. it's exactly as you write. Luckly in my case it was only a bad contact cause after cleaning connector and pins with alchol it started to work normally. Now I really enjoy it and i'm thanksfull to you cause you pointed me on the right way!:good:
cheers mate!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for posting the result. If anyone is nice like you, others will benefit from the learning experiences of DIY.
Beut said:
Thanks for posting the result. If anyone is nice like you, others will benefit from the learning experiences of DIY.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like to help community as much as community helps me :highfive:
freccia said:
you have to belive him. I read some case of people with flickering and rebooting problem cause bad power connector soldering. :fingers-crossed:
In each case problem was solved with resoldering(in the worst cases) or cleaning(in best cases) connector and pins. You can't know exactly what a lower power (cause missing part of parallel connection) could affect in different devices
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, OK, I guess he might be right , so you just cleaned the connector and Bam wifi works fine and no drops on low battery! hmm, interesting!
skylive3d said:
Yea, OK, I guess he might be right , so you just cleaned the connector and Bam wifi works fine and no drops on low battery! hmm, interesting!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's strange but yes... After a deep clean with alchol to connector and pins I no more had drops on low battery. I think it was on ossidation status and had a bad contact. Now I can really enjoy this wonderful tablet :good::fingers-crossed:
Hey all,
I just bought a pumpkin android octo core, 4GB ram Android 8 head unit.
This isn't my first android HU. So some quick thoughts...
Very nice they gave a good WiFi antenna with the included kit.
This unit has something odd about it that I need some guidance on... it supports some super fast boot up where if I put the igntion on , the unit is ready to go in a second.
I wonder is this a battery built into the unit? Is it using some large capacitor (tested at least 1hr after shutdown, bootup took 1 second) I very much hope it's not draining the car battery (old android head unit never did).
Everything seems lightning fast on this unit. I can finally even use Google assistant. I sort of could with the last Joying one, but it was just too slow to be practical... as was waiting 5 minutes to be able to use the GPS.
This is literally day zero, as in I just got it a few hours ago so I'll be updating this and testing anything people want me to test later... but I have one other issue and that is that there seems to be a slight hissing sound coming from the unit .. .even with the levels turned way down in the factory settings app... not sure what's causing that but it's a bit of an issue while there's no music playing / not driving around.
Some pics of course :
I got it from Amazon. Cost me £250 on-sale.
The sleep mode you're talking about is the "Auto" setting in the sleep settings menu, I think it's under the "Extra Settings" menu entry. It basically keeps the unit on in a low power mode indefinitely until it gets a 12v+ signal on the red wire behind the radio. During this time though, it's still drawing from your vehicle's battery. Unless your car has a low capacity battery or other charging system issues, it shouldn't be a problem for you. I've left my truck sitting for over a week with the radio in sleep mode and it fired right up to whatever screen I left it on.
Since this is your first unit, don't get hung up on brand names. All of these units are basically either a PX3 or a PX5, and the roms and programs you'll find on these boards are broken down based on what processor is in it. Theres a dozen different brand names, but they're all basically the same three units.
Thanks Hazard15301 it's good to know. I travel a lot for work and often leave my car in airport car parks for weeks. It has a good AGM battery so I guess I should be ok.
from what i can tell, that box is actually the design Erisin uses on their boxes. and the headunit im pretty sure is a Klyde. what is the MCU version on it?
I left my car for well over a week with my unit in 'sleep' mode. Started up no problem
Hi, how did you download Google Assistant onto the pumpkin head unit? And can it work just like the phone - playing specific songs in Spotify etc? Thanks.
Google assistant is built-in to the android OS on it. Just enable it and say "OK Google". It can do anything you can do on your phone (although i'm now having trouble with it making phone calls because it thinks it's a phone.. on my old unit it would just bluetooth to the phone and make the call ... the new one won't make calls for some reason - haven't had time to figure out why yet) ... very happy with this unit. This is what Android head units should be like. Everything works, and it's fast.
Thank you very much for the quick reply!
Is the Google assistant an app on its own in the HU? Do I have to click the app first in order to say “ok Google”?
Or can I be on any screen and say “ok Google” and it’ll work?
thanks!
imogenheap said:
Thank you very much for the quick reply!
Is the Google assistant an app on its own in the HU? Do I have to click the app first in order to say “ok Google”?
Or can I be on any screen and say “ok Google” and it’ll work?
thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's already there, installed as part of the OS, but you have to enable it.
open the Google app (again, built in / pre-installed)
At the bottom right, tap More More and then Settings and then Voice.
Under "Okay Google," tap Voice match.
Turn on Access with voice match.
It's not a separate app, it's just in the "google" app (it's just literally called Google on mine)
Once you enable it ... you can just say "OK Google" from any screen ... you don't have to press anything / open any app first.
For some reason I have to set my language to English US (I'm British) otherwise it says English UK isn't supported.
Cheers
Follow up on unit
Hello, I know this is an old post, however i would like to know how your Pumpkin stereo has held up? Even if you no longer have the head unit or you sold your car, what was your thoughts during the time you had it?
I am considering putting one in my VW Jetta, as i noticed you also had it in a VW and would appreciate your input?
Thanks in advance
lordxenu said:
Hey all,
I just bought a pumpkin android octo core, 4GB ram Android 8 head unit.
This isn't my first android HU. So some quick thoughts...
Very nice they gave a good WiFi antenna with the included kit.
This unit has something odd about it that I need some guidance on... it supports some super fast boot up where if I put the igntion on , the unit is ready to go in a second.
I wonder is this a battery built into the unit? Is it using some large capacitor (tested at least 1hr after shutdown, bootup took 1 second) I very much hope it's not draining the car battery (old android head unit never did).
Everything seems lightning fast on this unit. I can finally even use Google assistant. I sort of could with the last Joying one, but it was just too slow to be practical... as was waiting 5 minutes to be able to use the GPS.
This is literally day zero, as in I just got it a few hours ago so I'll be updating this and testing anything people want me to test later... but I have one other issue and that is that there seems to be a slight hissing sound coming from the unit .. .even with the levels turned way down in the factory settings app... not sure what's causing that but it's a bit of an issue while there's no music playing / not driving around.
Some pics of course :
I got it from Amazon. Cost me £250 on-sale.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
zapper_master said:
Hello, I know this is an old post, however i would like to know how your Pumpkin stereo has held up? Even if you no longer have the head unit or you sold your car, what was your thoughts during the time you had it?
I am considering putting one in my VW Jetta, as i noticed you also had it in a VW and would appreciate your input?
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi
I still have the headunit, and I'm really happy with it. It has served me very well while i've had it. It has never failed, crashed, slowed down etc and I've never needed to mess around with custom ROMs or anything. I can still install apps from the play store etc. Waze works perfectly, as does google maps.
I did purchase poweramp for it and the controls on the steering wheel work just fine too. So I would still recommend it. This is my second android headunit and it's so much better than my first Joying one stuck on android 5 and had only 1GB of RAM and it was sooo slow that GPS was almost unusable. But this one is lightning fast, it goes into standby when you turn off the car so when you turn it back on it's up and running straight away.. no waiting to boot.
The radio is a bit crap though, if that bothers you (I never listen to it) .. it doesn't recieve signals very well and I did hook up the power to the antenna and I did set it to Europe region (where I live) but yeah it doesn't pick up that many channels for some reason but since I either stream music or listen to MP3s from the memory card, i'm not too bothered about that.
One other strange bug, on my old android head unit I could use google assistant / say OK Google and say "Call work" or whomever, and it would dial on my phone. This one seems to think it's a phone , and says that there is no service. But not a big problem, I can press the phone button and just dial .. but it would be nice if I could do it by speaking to it.
Overall, very happy.
Thank you so much for the quick response. Your information is VERY helpful. I do realize none are going to be perfect, but it sounds decent unit for the price. Do you mind sharing what model you got? unless you mentioned it earlier in the thread then i apologize for asking.
lordxenu said:
Hi
I still have the headunit, and I'm really happy with it. It has served me very well while i've had it. It has never failed, crashed, slowed down etc and I've never needed to mess around with custom ROMs or anything. I can still install apps from the play store etc. Waze works perfectly, as does google maps.
I did purchase poweramp for it and the controls on the steering wheel work just fine too. So I would still recommend it. This is my second android headunit and it's so much better than my first Joying one stuck on android 5 and had only 1GB of RAM and it was sooo slow that GPS was almost unusable. But this one is lightning fast, it goes into standby when you turn off the car so when you turn it back on it's up and running straight away.. no waiting to boot.
The radio is a bit crap though, if that bothers you (I never listen to it) .. it doesn't recieve signals very well and I did hook up the power to the antenna and I did set it to Europe region (where I live) but yeah it doesn't pick up that many channels for some reason but since I either stream music or listen to MP3s from the memory card, i'm not too bothered about that.
One other strange bug, on my old android head unit I could use google assistant / say OK Google and say "Call work" or whomever, and it would dial on my phone. This one seems to think it's a phone , and says that there is no service. But not a big problem, I can press the phone button and just dial .. but it would be nice if I could do it by speaking to it.
Overall, very happy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
zapper_master said:
Thank you so much for the quick response. Your information is VERY helpful. I do realize none are going to be perfect, but it sounds decent unit for the price. Do you mind sharing what model you got? unless you mentioned it earlier in the thread then i apologize for asking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No worries, feel free to ask me as many questions about it as you like and i'll try to answer.
With regards to which model,
The amazon listing said "Pumpkin Android 8.0 Car Stereo for VW Golf Passat Polo
4GB RAM Sat Nav Bluetooth Support CD DVD GPS DAB+ WIFI Android Auto"
if i check the about menu on the unit itself it says it's a "PX5"
Thank you I appreciate it. Looks like the internals are all about the same on most models with just small differences.
Enjoy your evening.
lordxenu said:
No worries, feel free to ask me as many questions about it as you like and i'll try to answer.
With regards to which model,
The amazon listing said "Pumpkin Android 8.0 Car Stereo for VW Golf Passat Polo
4GB RAM Sat Nav Bluetooth Support CD DVD GPS DAB+ WIFI Android Auto"
if i check the about menu on the unit itself it says it's a "PX5"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Anybody have MTCE head unit installed in Honda Accord VII? Which "MTCE Version"?
Many users have problem with rear window defogger (defroster, heater) at least with MTCE_KLD .
Can anybody confirm there are no problems with their head unit?
Green LED state
maxbfg said:
Hi,
Anybody have MTCE head unit installed in Honda Accord VII? Which "MTCE Version"?
Many users have problem with rear window defogger (defroster, heater) at least with MTCE_KLD .
Can anybody confirm there are no problems with their head unit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The green LED in the center of the button changes its states or not ? That is to say, the issue is only related to the defroster or also related to the LED state ?
I have an MTCE unit in my CL9. All climate control things work fine.
MTCE_HF_V3.07_1
brettf said:
I have an MTCE unit in my CL9. All climate control things work fine.
MTCE_HF_V3.07_1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. What is the minimum temperature setpoint? In my head unit it is 19° C
2. Does outside temperature on the odometer shows 28° C all the time ?
3. The air conditioning system works much worse than the original Japanese in AUTO mode. In winter, at 21 ° C, the Japanese control opens the flaps fully and closes them slowly, as the engine warms up (the hot air blow from the beginning), the Chinese head unit does not blow at all for some time after the start (waiting for heating up the engine, but it is only a time delay), as a result, after a time delay it begins to blow with a cold air assuming that the engine is already warm. In other words, the Chinese radio in the winter sets the flaps to some opening degree only on the basis of difference between the temperature inside of the car and the demand temperature, independent of the temperature of the engine cooling liquid. In summer, the air conditioning in AUTO mode blows all the time on the feet, on the Japanese head unit it blows to the feet and face. Does it work similar with yours Seicane?
maxbfg said:
1. What is the minimum temperature setpoint? In my head unit it is 19° C
2. Does outside temperature on the odometer shows 28° C all the time ?
3. The air conditioning system works much worse than the original Japanese in AUTO mode. In winter, at 21 ° C, the Japanese control opens the flaps fully and closes them slowly, as the engine warms up (the hot air blow from the beginning), the Chinese head unit does not blow at all for some time after the start (waiting for heating up the engine, but it is only a time delay), as a result, after a time delay it begins to blow with a cold air assuming that the engine is already warm. In other words, the Chinese radio in the winter sets the flaps to some opening degree only on the basis of difference between the temperature inside of the car and the demand temperature, independent of the temperature of the engine cooling liquid. In summer, the air conditioning in AUTO mode blows all the time on the feet, on the Japanese head unit it blows to the feet and face. Does it work similar with yours Seicane?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, so after using it for some time I have noticed a couple things.
1. Minimum Temp is "LO" which is 1 below 19 C. (Which was the same as my stock radio)
2. Outside Temp on my Odometer no longer shows AT ALL. It shows correctly on the MTCE display though.
3. I haven't tested all those scenarios, but I have tested the heater in winter, and it takes very long to get up to temperature even though the car is already warm. Previously, if the car was warm, hot air would blow straight away.
brettf said:
I have an MTCE unit in my CL9. All climate control things work fine.
MTCE_HF_V3.07_1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have same issues with climate control as described in this thread. My MCU version is MTCE_HF_V2.96_1.
HF manufacturer is not listed in any of XDA threads or wiki. Does anybody know of compatible manufacturer ? Or maybe a link to a MCU upgrade ?
maxbfg said:
Hi,
Anybody have MTCE head unit installed in Honda Accord VII? Which "MTCE Version"?
Many users have problem with rear window defogger (defroster, heater) at least with MTCE_KLD .
Can anybody confirm there are no problems with their head unit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dunno what MTC(B,D,E etc) actually means (someone please enlighten me?) but I installed a no-name Chinese Xeowyn unit ex AliExpress in my 7th Gen Honda Accord (non Euro) a couple of years back, about AUD 405 delivered.
Came with Android 6.0, quad core, 1GB RAM, 10.1" screen and all the accessories. GPS, front/rear cameras, BT, WiFi, SWC, OBDII, 2xUSB in. Installed by self very neatly after finding a vid on Youtube which showed the same unit (different brand) being installed in the same car, 2003 model. Everything works well except I couldn't get the OBDII happening, no biggie. All climate controls/air flows/demisters work.. Internet is a bit slow, even when connected by hotspot to my S10e. I'm guessing the bottleneck here is the BT or the low RAM by today's standards of 1GB, but it is usable unless ya try to watch a Youtube HD vid on the fly. Couldn't get BT to connect for internet, but BT for phone connection for making/receiving calls with audio through speakers work very well with good reports from the person at the other end of a call.
Would love to know if it's possible to upgrade to more recent Android version but even if it is, it may be beyond my tech capability, and I don't wanna brick it.
Found a Seicane unit for AUD 415 (can't post links yet, check it out for yourself) on AliExpress with octacore, 4GB RAM, Android Pie... very tempted!
Hi here,
I'm a Honda Accord owner (CM02). Chinese Unit with A/C controls is far away the original equipment about temperature & air distribution. In add, I red some very bad feedbacks on A/C compressor management, running it continously and destroying it after fews month because A/C circuit pressure is too high... That's why I recommand to keep A/C controler.
I've started to work on my Android unit installation, I'll connect it on CD charger input of the original stereo.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=79971177&postcount=295
IloveJapan said:
Hi here,
I'm a Honda Accord owner (CM02). Chinese Unit with A/C controls is far away the original equipment about temperature & air distribution. In add, I red some very bad feedbacks on A/C compressor management, running it continously and destroying it after fews month because A/C circuit pressure is too high... That's why I recommand to keep A/C controler.
I've started to work on my Android unit installation, I'll connect it on CD charger input of the original stereo.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=79971177&postcount=295
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This solution is far away from "comfortable", I used to have a mobile phone located in this place (inside "cd box") for a couple of months. In my opinion it is dangerous to keep your eyes off the road and keep your eyes down there, the display should be located in the place where original display is located.
After a lot of reviews and reading I just ordered a 9" Idoing with CanBus for my 2018 WRX with Harman Kardon. A lot of positive reviews from WRX owners, but not seeing a lot of love(or hate) for the Idoing hear on XDA. It's nearly identical to the Joying, but Joying will not support the HK system in my car.
The system is an android 10, UIS 7862 4+64. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32955093508.html
I'm curious what custom options I have in terms of UI, ROMs, Root,, apps?
I'm guessing from what I read(or lack there of) ROMs are a no go, but what about root and other customization options?
Sorry long time rooter and custom ROM user for android phones and tablets, but total noob to android head units.
I have a Kenwood with wireless android auto in my old car and was going to move it to this one, but absolutely hate Android Auto almost as much as I hate mirrorlink in the stock HU in my WRX(shame on you subaru). Also the kit to install it from crutchfield cost nearly as much as the android unit and canbus shipped from china, so figured i'd take a chance.
If it doesn't work out I'll go with the kenwood, but really hopeful this will be a winner. I spent a lot of time on chat with them and they are extremely responsive to questions(really like live chat) where a question to Joying took 3 days to get a response.
I know there is little chance the 4G module will work in the US(IDoing says it works with tmobile) so expecting to use wifi tether with my phone with native apps and pretend android auto doesn't exist. Other option is put a spare phone with sim permanently connected to USB, but unsure if USB tether will work.
I will keep reading, but any thoughts or pointers are welcome. Just don't tell me to replace my HK system, I know not everyone likes it, but I love it ;-)
FAIR WARNING!!!! After a year with no issue, My IDoing fried itself today!! I was driving and it shut down and for about 1 minute I could smell burnt electronics. This was a plug n play install so no cutting, no splicing, no soldering. I am in the process of seeing what IDoing will do for me, but I expect the answer is nothing since it is now over a year old.
Update: Well at least IDoing is talking to me. I pulled the unit out today and put the Stock stereo back in(UGGGH). At least nothing else got fried.
Update 2: So they are saying that they want me to pull the unit off the mounting trim and mail it to them and they will send me a knew one. I'm assuming this is going to cost me 100 bucks in shipping and need to wait a month or more, but it's better response than I expect.
Update 3: They "say" that once I give them tracking number for the unit, they will ship new unit and all i have to pay for is return shipping(30 dollars)
Final Update: Well it cost me a lot more than the USPS web site inferred (85 dollars), but they shipped a replacement the same day I gave them the tracking for the return. New unit showed up in just over a week, Unit looks new installed in less than an hour and all works great, software looks to be nearly identical except the AA software that it came with support wireless out of the box, so small bons. Unfortunate the original unit fried itself after a year, but considering it was out of warranty I have to commend Idoing on how they handled this, now I just need to remember all the tweaks I had installed ;-)
Roms, you have 2 options both are "Lite" versions meaning you have to buy the other features.
No real need for twrp.
Best bet make sure it works with Android auto wireless
Also pay close attention to the button layouts for the different types of screens.
Most development will be in the "Android auto" fourm
Also ask the seller to provided the zlink activation codes
Hmm, I'm curious why I would use AA at all with this as opposed to running apps on the unit with wifi tether? I've used AA Mirror in the past with my kenwood, but would prefer to avoid that path if possible.
It should work with AA, but not wireless as far as I know.
So my unit arrived today:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32955093508.html
Got it to the point of plugging it in to test in the car.
Adding Heating controls vents was a Piece of Cake and this thing looks amazing
Tested:
Screen: Fast and gorgeous responsive, seems very good in bright sunlight
capacitive buttons:, work well , Reset and reprogrammed and much better. Also Illumination is working with custom colors.
Well Documented low volume buzz... Yep it's there, goes away if you mute the radio. Will look for setting to reduce perhaps as well as talk to IDoing
Harman Kardon Canbus, Works plug and play. One issue that may be related is the Fade controls don't really work to fade to rear as they mute the rear, while balance controls work fine... Talking to IDoing now and they just confirmed that any factory amp radio has this issue.
Wifi 5ghz tether, works flawlessly, get 50mbit off my cell. Not the fastest but more than good enough
Play store/google account setup: works flawlessly. Have installed several apps already
Waze/GPS: works flawlessly
USB: 3 dongles, all work for USB Drives, haven't tested for phone connection
Flac: Works off all 3 usb(one main reason I went with this unit)
4g: Working well with t-mobile, not working with verizon. Verizon shows as full bars, bars when I went more urban, but there are no APN settings and I cant get data to work.
Bluetooth audio: works ok, sound doesn't seem fantastic, but i will probably never use.
Android Auto: Wired works great, can't get wireless to work even though my phone says the head unit supports it. Wired it's very fast and responsive and looks great.
Carplay: works wired and woreless, didn't test much as I don't use apple except for app testing.
Fubo/Video: Works very well screen is gorgeous
Developer options: IDoing gave me codes
Launcher: Pretty flexible with different options.
Got USB Debugging, ADB to work today. In developer setting there is 3 "..." at the top, in there is USB mode, top is host mode, bottom is device mode(ADB).
Once I got ADB going I got SystemUITuner granted permissions to control immersive mode for Waze and the like.
Custom Launcher: Got custom launchers working with a trick to use the setting in Nova to set default launcher. Now Rocking Car Web Guru launcher. Also Like Car Launcher Free Version.
Split screen : woks well and is even remembered as last view on soft boot.
Geekbench: 500+, 1300+ very pleased.
android auto with Head unit reloaded: tested with dev server method. Works well with wireless, but UI layout is pretty bad.
Console USB Adapter: Bought from amazon, works perfectly. Now 4 functioning USB
USB access for File Manager : doesn't work yet
Music Apps: do have access to USB
Automation: Used Macrodroid to start Android auto whenever the phone usb is plugged in, or to start spotifiy if no usb and wifi connects. Will do some more of these.
Overall:
Bummed about the rear speaker control, will have to see how much it affects my listening, found subwoofer control an tweaked EQ, sound is quite nice, still wish fade worked. Ok next note to others, make sure you calibrate your EQ with your back seats up. I forgot I had put them down to get my bike in and that was half my disappointment with the sound. Yes I still wish I had fade, but this thing sounds Really nice once dialed in.
The buzz is "irritating" that it exists, but unlikely a real issue for me.. Totally inaudible when car is running.
Otherwise this thing is pretty sweet so far.
Hi gottahavit,
I was just looking at this model on aliexpress and this post comes in just in time as you would say. I have a 2017 STI with no HK
What is your experience with the Mic for calls? does it retain the factory mic or do we have to plug in a new one?
You mention codes for Dev, can you share these?
The console USB Adapter - Which one did you use? do you have a link?
Have you tested ODB2 with apps like Torque?
The External GPS antenna is it required for it to work?
What about the 4G antennas?
thanks so much!
seryser said:
Hi gottahavit,
I was just looking at this model on aliexpress and this post comes in just in time as you would say. I have a 2017 STI with no HK
What is your experience with the Mic for calls? does it retain the factory mic or do we have to plug in a new one?
You mention codes for Dev, can you share these?
The console USB Adapter - Which one did you use? do you have a link?
Have you tested ODB2 with apps like Torque?
The External GPS antenna is it required for it to work?
What about the 4G antennas?
thanks so much!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So first, IDoing have been fantastic in helping with the right purchase and the support, but that said this suffers from a lot of issues the other MFG units do. If you had HK I'd def recommend the IDoing as it's plug and play works great.
However if you don't have the HK I might suggest you get a version with optical or coax out. I think Joying and Daisata sell the same unit but with one or the other cabling.
I don't really make calls, but have tested a couple and was told the mic is ok. No you can't keep the stock mic or GPS.
Codes:3368 for factory, 7171 for Launchers
USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DJ4KVQ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 works perfectly.
No ODB2 here, should be the same as the Joying in another thread.
You need the GPS if you want waze or maps on the unit vs AA or Carplay. I just mounted it on the top of the unit and it works great.
4G works fine with Tmobile, I tested with a Mint mobile trial, but cannot get proper APNs in for Verizon SIm to work(still on my hit list)
I recommend the coax as so many of these unit suffer from some form of ground loop interference which is just annoying even if it doesn't really affect the sound. I had no choice given the HK system
Even with the HK this thing cranks our a lot more power than the POS subaru unit..
These things are great and all the work of install is getting the old unit out. It's not perfect but leaps and bounds above stock.
The other reason to go with Joying is you'll get more support here than you will with the IDoing(very specialized to subaru).
If you do buy from IDoing just chat with them first they will help you pick the proper unit and any canbus for your car.
I would definitely go with the UIS7862 version, as this thing is fast!
Thanks for all the information! Really clarifies what i need to get. Ill look at the joying unit and see what the differences are... There was also the Teyes CC3, but man is it more expensive but looks absolutely awesome
seryser said:
Thanks for all the information! Really clarifies what i need to get. Ill look at the joying unit and see what the differences are... There was also the Teyes CC3, but man is it more expensive but looks absolutely awesome
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking I see the unit 6+128 would be cool, but be careful, they all say forrester and have foreester button config for the top lcd and 4-wasy buttons. Maybe they have insert for WRX like IDoing. Also I don't see and coax or optical out, but just did quick search. Keep in mind that a lot of that marketing material is just that. I love my unit, but you can't believe everything you read. Also that's cheaper the IDoing or Joying. I think the key is make sure it has the key connections you want(optical, coax, HK my case) and that it fits your car.
Idoing is reseller of various types of kanged android head units.
Would be good to know factory/manufacturer or unit - sounds like it might be an FYT? You will then be able to know what rom options and mods are available from the forums.
Manufacturer can generally be identified from MCU version, what is the full MCU version listed?
marchnz said:
Idoing is reseller of various types of kanged android head units.
Would be good to know factory/manufacturer or unit - sounds like it might be an FYT? You will then be able to know what rom options and mods are available from the forums.
Manufacturer can generally be identified from MCU version, what is the full MCU version listed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IDoing is FYT, they are the only ones with the canbus for the HK system in my car, but that's fine for seryser as he/she has base stereo., but with no HK I recommend getting a unit with optical or coax.
Just a note on the WRX install, you will be tempted(as I was) to not drop the drivers air bag and try to get to the 10mm bolt on that side. DROP THE STUPID AIRBAG!!!!
It's really near impossible to get enough purchase on the bolt unless you do. I wasted an hour trying to not drop the air bag and gave up and had it done in 5 min.
When you put the new unit it, they are TIGHT, snap the clips at the bottom, bend in the clips at the top, then push REAL hard in the top of the screen to sanp the middle clips. They will snap in and what a beautiful fit this unit has. Make sure you run all your cables where you want them before you snap it in! You get 3 usb, I removed the cigarettes lighter under the unit and cut it and plugged it to have one USB in snapped in, ran the other two into the glove box along with the stock usb plug(was amazed it was long enough), then you just plug it into the adapter and one USB plug right in the glove box. Now I have one under the unit, one in the glove box, and 2 in the center console.
I just found the USB Mode toggle on the UIS7862 IDoing. It's the "..." menu at the root of developer setting. Two items in Chinese, top one is host mode, bottom is device mode. Got USB Debugging working fine even with usb-c cable from my laptop.
A picture's worth a thousand words
ludditefornow said:
A picture's worth a thousand words
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can post pics later, but if you can get into developer settings. Immediately in the top right there is a menu button(...) click that and there is one option "USB Configuration", click that you get a popup with 2 options in it in chinese. The first is USB Host mode and the second is Device mode which will let you do USB Debugging from a laptop.
again this is on my IDoing, YMMV
gottahavit said:
So my unit arrived today:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32955093508.html
Got it to the point of plugging it in to test in the car.
Adding Heating controls vents was a Piece of Cake and this thing looks amazing
Tested:
Screen: Fast and gorgeous responsive, seems very good in bright sunlight
capacitive buttons:, work well , Reset and reprogrammed and much better. Also Illumination is working with custom colors.
Well Documented low volume buzz... Yep it's there, goes away if you mute the radio. Will look for setting to reduce perhaps as well as talk to IDoing
Harman Kardon Canbus, Works plug and play. One issue that may be related is the Fade controls don't really work to fade to rear as they mute the rear, while balance controls work fine... Talking to IDoing now and they just confirmed that any factory amp radio has this issue.
Wifi 5ghz tether, works flawlessly, get 50mbit off my cell. Not the fastest but more than good enough
Play store/google account setup: works flawlessly. Have installed several apps already
Waze/GPS: works flawlessly
USB: 3 dongles, all work for USB Drives, haven't tested for phone connection
Flac: Works off all 3 usb(one main reason I went with this unit)
4g: Working well with t-mobile, not working with verizon. Verizon shows as full bars, bars when I went more urban, but there are no APN settings and I cant get data to work.
Bluetooth audio: works ok, sound doesn't seem fantastic, but i will probably never use.
Android Auto: Wired works great, can't get wireless to work even though my phone says the head unit supports it. Wired it's very fast and responsive and looks great.
Carplay: works wired and woreless, didn't test much as I don't use apple except for app testing.
Fubo/Video: Works very well screen is gorgeous
Developer options: IDoing gave me codes
Launcher: Pretty flexible with different options.
Got USB Debugging, ADB to work today. In developer setting there is 3 "..." at the top, in there is USB mode, top is host mode, bottom is device mode(ADB).
Once I got ADB going I got SystemUITuner granted permissions to control immersive mode for Waze and the like.
Custom Launcher: Got custom launchers working with a trick to use the setting in Nova to set default launcher. Now Rocking Car Web Guru launcher. Also Like Car Launcher Free Version.
Split screen : woks well and is even remembered as last view on soft boot.
Geekbench: 500+, 1300+ very pleased.
android auto with Head unit reloaded: tested with dev server method. Works well with wireless, but UI layout is pretty bad.
Console USB Adapter: Bought from amazon, works perfectly. Now 4 functioning USB
USB access for File Manager : doesn't work yet
Music Apps: do have access to USB
Automation: Used Macrodroid to start Android auto whenever the phone usb is plugged in, or to start spotifiy if no usb and wifi connects. Will do some more of these.
Overall:
Bummed about the rear speaker control, will have to see how much it affects my listening, found subwoofer control an tweaked EQ, sound is quite nice, still wish fade worked. Ok next note to others, make sure you calibrate your EQ with your back seats up. I forgot I had put them down to get my bike in and that was half my disappointment with the sound. Yes I still wish I had fade, but this thing sounds Really nice once dialed in.
The buzz is "irritating" that it exists, but unlikely a real issue for me.. Totally inaudible when car is running.
Otherwise this thing is pretty sweet so far.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What a good review!!!
Really "irritating" the permanent buzz. Only dissapear with volume to zero every time I turn on the unit. If somebody find a fix i will be more than happy
JAR99 said:
What a good review!!!
Really "irritating" the permanent buzz. Only dissapear with volume to zero every time I turn on the unit. If somebody find a fix i will be more than happy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I agree, at tis point it's the only real gripe I have with the unit. The thing is amazing compared to the crap that Subaru put in.
The issue seems to be pretty common on these chinese units, which is why if I didn't have the HK setup I would have bought one with Optical or Coax. Honestly you can't hear it when listening to music, but... If I ever pull the unit out again I will try to ground the board to see what that does.
IDoing has "tried" to be helpful, and they are extremely responsive on aliexpress.
I'm glad you found my review useful.
So I managed to get APN setting for verizon to stick, and I ca see the verizon network if I use a replacement mobile network settings like from CWG, however even though it will connect and I have the APN it sitll won't get any mobile data on the verizon network. I'm beginning to think they have it hardcoded in the System to only work with t-mobile. Either that or Verizon is rejecting data requests from the device even tough it lets it connect. I've tried with both true Verizon Sim and an Xfinity Mobile Sim(Both verizon, but different APNs).
gottahavit said:
Yes I agree, at tis point it's the only real gripe I have with the unit. The thing is amazing compared to the crap that Subaru put in.
The issue seems to be pretty common on these chinese units, which is why if I didn't have the HK setup I would have bought one with Optical or Coax. Honestly you can't hear it when listening to music, but... If I ever pull the unit out again I will try to ground the board to see what that does.
IDoing has "tried" to be helpful, and they are extremely responsive on aliexpress.
I'm glad you found my review useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do these buzz even if you don't have the hk?
speeddemon1891 said:
Do these buzz even if you don't have the hk?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe they do, only way around it without playing with internals is to get one with the coax or optical out and use that, then it's digital to your amp.
gottahavit said:
I believe they do, only way around it without playing with internals is to get one with the coax or optical out and use that, then it's digital to your amp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Think it might be possible to add some kind of pass-through filter/adapter to the RCA leads which could help reduce or eliminate the buzz?