Database Info

Geostamping photos, is it possible on device?

I use a Mio a701 for Geocaching with GPS Dash v2.58 software and it seems to do everything I need it to apart from one thing. I would like to be able to take photos and have the lat/long read from the GPS & stamped onto the photo. Is anyone aware of any 3rd partysoftware that can do this?
I have looked at things like "RoboGeo" which compare the recorded track with EXIF data on a PC, but really would like the ease of doing it direct on the device.
I know this is slightly off topic for your forum, but I have asked in the usual Mio support forums. I would have thought such software (if it exists) could also be used on an XDA with a BT receiver also, so here I am
TIA
Murf

murf62 - welcome to the board.
I'm a fellow Mio A701 man, as of last week. Can I ask what forums you're using? I haven't seen many good dedicated ones, at least nothing as good as here. I've started one on my website just for the hell of it.
I've written a couple of apps to improve the system, I'm not particularly happy with it out of the box.
But I digress. This could be possible, but what app are you using take the photos, normal camera app?
V

Yeah, I'm using the normal camera app, but can't see any reason why a 3rd party app couldn't exist that grabs a pic from the camera and then stamps the lat/long onto it.
I have hunted high & low for such a thing and I'm pretty sure it doesn't currently exist. :shock:
I've had the Mio since release on 10 Mar and it's been great, these are the forums I currently use, I'm assuming it's ok to post them here as you asked & are a moderator
http://www.fourpages.co.uk/mioA701/index.php
http://www.expansys.com/forum.asp?code=129999
http://www.pocketgpsworld.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewforum&f=106
http://www.modaco.com/MiTAC_Mio_A701-f175.html
The bottom 2 are dying off now as most people have moved to the fourpages one.
I would be interested in apps you have written, what sort of things are you talking about?

murf62: hey, four pages is great, I just Johnny Five'd the whole board into my limited Mental Storage Drive:
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Seems like you run much of the board, at least the FAQs!
I'm awaiting my authorisation email Can't post yet.
Basically, I hate that there's no dedicated Power button. The red button is useless, it always switches itself on in my pocket, and takes me 30 seconds to switch off using the ShutDownApp.exe or whatever it's called.
I reverse engineered it and squirted the functionality into my VJEschaton (unreleased version), and used a regedit to bring the Camera app into Settings, and now assign power off to the camera button.
Next step is to rewrite or patch the keyboard driver to allow power on from the camera key, although I'm thinking of a better solution, writing my own screen lock to sidestep the problems (backlight coming on) with the current Rom version.
Next, I used VJOkButt to replace the functionality of the Red button, and used AE ButtonPlus to replace Vol Up/Down keys.
I spent an age configuring my Today screen, creating a new today theme to match my old WM2003 one, updating the Wiki on here very slightly with my findings. I then configured claunch to use as my Today screen dialer.
I've also written a small GPS test app.
I spent yesterday trying to install my father's TomTom 3, which failed, so gave TT5 a go. Works ok.
I'm going to try to write a release version of the GPS app, eventually, because currently I think you have to Kickstart the GPS with another app, and VisualGPS seems too CPU intensive for the job.
More to come. I've only had it out of the box for around 48 hours
Hopefully I'll look into the GPS stamping issue, if I can figure out and find a nice image manipulation library. But I have some other priorities on this board first (VJToggleToday, to maximise Today screen space. Works well on the Mio though).
V

vijay555 said:
I'm going to try to write a release version of the GPS app, eventually, because currently I think you have to Kickstart the GPS with another app, and VisualGPS seems too CPU intensive for the job.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't need to kickstart it this way if you use HW_COM & 57600 baud in tomtom instead of COM 4.

But will that still use Ephemeris?
V

No it doesn't, but it still locks on pretty quickly. Typically, I get tomtom loaded & a good lock in around 60 seconds. (25 seconds or so of that is tomtom booting up, then another 10 or so while it finds the COM port).

HTC multi adapter wiring colors

I searched this site and PPC geeks for the answer and i was wondering if anyone knew what the wiring colors were. My other car adapter that i use broke so i am going to make another with this adapter instead of the multi adapter that has usb and the headset jack. However i want to be able to still add the mic in myself this will be wired directly into an aux in on my pioneer headunit. The other adapter has a loose jack and will only charge and won't put out audio with the multi adapter pluged in. It does play audio fine if the headset is plugged into the phone directly.
Here is my goal. wire it up to this adapter splitting the audio cables and running them into the aux in. Dismantle the stock headset wire only the mic portion up extend the wires and run it up by my drivers side visor. only problem is i don't have a way of testing what the speakers are vs the mic wires and or whats needed to be crossed for it to be detected as a headset. With just the adapter in the phone no headset hooked to the 2.5mm side audio and mic functions still come out of the internal speaker or speaker phone for music.
If i find a solution i think it could be made into a diy sticky for those who want custom hands free without all the fuss of expensive adapters as all thats required is some wire and minor tools minimal soldering and some heat shrink.
This adapter came with my sprint mogul.
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I got it all wired up and installed in my car the way I wanted to. It took some trial and error but this wire diagram from XDA http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=31649&d=1164664052 is correct, however on the mogul's adapter that comes with the phone the yellow wire is not hooked to anything on ether end its just in there it was not attached to the mini 2.5mm jack and it pulled straight out of the phone 11 pin end no loose wires or solder on ether end of the yellow wire just a clean cut.
Here is what i used to make it work.
White - Mic +
Yellow - was not hooked up to anything
Red - Ground L/R
Blue - Headset sense hooks into the red to turn headset mode on.
Green - Speaker +
Black - Speaker +
Ground/Shielding silver loose no coating - I hooked to the signal wire from the mic.
Mic Ground - red and blue wires.
As the stock headset has 3 wires for the mic. +,-,and S their colors are White - mic +
Copper - mic -
Blue - S
The push to answer button does not work on the headset mic but the mic does work. I think it has to so with the fact that i didn't hook up the other wires to the board going to the adapter. I ran out of wires and didn't have a long enough cable that had all the needed wires so i clipped all but the 3 i needed off the circuit board for the mic and ran a new longer 3 wire cable from the board to the adapter.
I have to get ready for a Christmas party in dc thats 2 hours away. I will post finished pictures and maybe a youtube video if the finished install once I get back to town.
Sound comes out clear thru my speakers and I was able to hold a conversation with the mic as a hands free in the car. The mic is mouned at the top of the drivers side a pillar and the wire runs down in behind that into the dash and comes out right by the phone mount.
Now I can leave my car charger hooked to the adapter and the headphone output is wired into the car stero so one connection to the phone and i have mic + audio out. Cost was just some of my free time and parts/wires i already had laying around. I did take extra time to be neat and soldered all the connections properly. This is as close to an aftermarket oem integrated system that i wanted.
Thanks to all that helped I will post the results later, for those interested.

Onda V975i mod to enable flashing of Win8.1 Bios

Hey fellow members on xda, I've decided to mirror my thread here to help out you guys if you require. If you require further assistance, head on over to http://www.slatedroi...bios/?p=1218898 or you could reply here. I can't guarantee a timely reply here as I can on slatedroid but I'll try my best!
********************************************************************
This is a slatedroid exclusive by lambstone. Some resources taken from http://www.ondaos.com/. Feel free to share a link to this thread or the contents so long as my donation link remains.
It is now necessary to solder on two resistors to be able to flash win8.1 bios properly without the HDMI/Screen bug. This is why Onda has delayed the Win8.1 update as they were probably trying to find a way to do so without a hardware modification. Unfortunately, it is pretty much confirmed that you need to solder two minuscule resistors onto an equally tiny spot to be able to flash win8.1. Most of us have really horrible soldering skills. Luckily, if you read on, I've come up with an alternate solution that will enable the majority of us to perform this hardware mod with minimal skill.
This is a pre-requisite for flashing of win8.1. Win8.1 instructions to follow once I have performed this mod.
Original Idea as found on http://www.ondaos.com/. Translated and paraphrased by lambstone
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Tools Required = 2x 0402 2.2k Ohm Resistors, Soldering Iron, Solder, Flux, Over 9000 lvl soldering skills
Steps = Solder resistor onto the red boxes into the above box.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alternate Idea as found on http://www.ondaos.com/. Translated and paraphrased by lambstone
Tools: 6B Pencil
Steps: Use pencil to draw a line across the contact points to close the circuit
Non-confirmed side effects: Possible loss of HDMI output. Unsure how long the graphite lasts
This works because graphite while conducting electricity have a fairly high resistance. DO NOT SHORT CIRCUIT by simply soldering the two points together or something like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My novel idea and workaround.
In case another user thinks I did not come up with this idea. Please open the spoiler just below
guerreromanuel, on 05 Jul 2014 - 01:04 AM, said:
I would donate you but a chinese had the idea in ondaos forum so I dont know if you were the one clever or the one copying and saying he is the inventor. I dont like the last thing, is better to link -> Link
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lambstone, on 05 Jul 2014 - 4:32 PM, said:
I don't copy and claim credit. That user is me a hint would be that he and I have the same username? I posted it there and then I decided to do a in depth post about it here. Sorry I wasn't too clear about it on the main post, I have updated the main post accordingly.
Here's the proof. (This is the same link you provided)
I understand your concerns given that it had originally seemed I stole the idea. As for donations, if you're still willing to donate since I have proven to you that it is my own idea. You know where the link is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Things you will need
0402 2.2K Ohm Resistor (They come in bulk, normally like a strip of 100, cheap though. $1.99 for 100)
0.2ML New Silver Conductive Wire Glue Paste
Steps
Remove battery first
Apply wire glue to the four contact points as indicated by the motherboard image above
Press resistor to board on top of fresh glue careful to check there is no short circuit
Do not touch device over 8++ hours
You're done.
Donate to me for making this possible. Link's in my signature. Or just click this sentence.

Hey, i've sucessfully installed dual boot on the tablet with Grub, Manjaro Linux work !
http://www.ondaforum.com/topic/1674-dual-boot-is-possible-d/

can this be applied on other tablets?
tikilou said:
Hey, i've sucessfully installed dual boot on the tablet with Grub, Manjaro Linux work !
http://www.ondaforum.com/topic/1674-dual-boot-is-possible-d/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
chuwi v99i has no hdmi and shipped without windows 8. it still has bay trail intel processor. i was wondering can it also have windows 8?

Thanks for sharing.

Acer Laptop Heating & Shutdown Solution

Hello XDA community and Acer Laptop User
First, let me address the Acer Laptop Users. I bought a used Acer Aspire 5930z from Kijiji for $200 and later found out what the seller meant by Heating Problem. I then discover that with Acers' overheating -and to others a lot- means shutdown or so I thought.
I've tried multiple -cheap- solutions that didn't work...
- Googled for solutions
- Apply Thermal Paste (Arctic Silver 5 aka AS5) to CPU Card & Graphic Card
- Took apart the Laptop; Clearing Dust from fan, check for loose or damaged parts
- Clearing files with CCleaner (and used Speccy for Temperture, mostly +45)
- Using SpeedFan program to run fan high
- Got suggestions -thermal paste, motherboard replace- from professionals (No, I didn't give it to a tech to fix...$50-100 for taking apart, looking & reasembling...and one guy told me its a screen problem, a fix for $100, but buy the laptop for $12...haha...I understand, but no)
- Put three 1L containers of Ice underneath Fan & Vents to suck in cold air (Temps stayed at 30-50 and Laptop run for a long period of time ~8hrs)
Then today I Googled for a solution again and found a thread -a word makes a difference- with an answer from a KennyJo with a promising explaination and when I checked to see if I was on the right track. I found I was and what might be the problem also to why even down to the professionals & Kijiji buyer couldn't figure out...no one needed to look inside the laptop.
In fact what KennyJo stated it the problem is an incorrect -not faulty, wrong- Laptop charger -power supply aka psu- as the current one/wrong one I have says the OUTPUT is 19V - 4.74A - 90W when the one I am suppose to have/right one is 19V - 3.42A - 65W.
So yes after reading the whole thread, find KennyJo's answer, googling what psu my Acer 5930z needs and discovering I have the wrong charger might mean no loss anymore...HEEY YAAH.
Info
- KennyJo's answer to Acer's Heat & Shutdown Problem [Click Here]
The reason for the whole auto shut down thing is my power supply. Whenever I used some program required higher performance (including watching a video), or in another word, more power supply to the system, the psu would fail (overheat?) and shut the whole system down.
Even though the case of my psu was cool, the place where the fan located was actually very hot.And I believe not enough voltage for my cpu fan was the reason why my cpu temp was so high.
For those who might be facing this problem, I strongly recommend you to check you power supply after finding applying the cooling compound do not work.
And the auto shut down have not happened again so far
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
- Screenshot of the results of Google & my current charger
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For XDA Community...Mods please I beg,
I tried to post this on Acer's Community forum to inform there laptop makers that they should bridge a gap with Users to at least allow them to know simple things like this (slap a sticker so people know), but had so much trouble just signing up for the site.
I know there is a thread for Laptops/Desktops, but Acer's rep has been down for this. Though there rep doesn't matter people want solutions. Sometimes its not about being invincible, but repairable (That can be applied to a lot of things like Infrastructure or Project Ara).
So I beg don't remove or move this thread.
[New Nov 16, 2015] Turns out it too was the charger for me, My Stepfather bought my Lil'Sister a Laptop Acer E5-521. And to the person who voted cooling pad, same if I kept using the 4.74Amps PSU and the 1L of containers of ice...like a Desktop.

Screen broken, need for screen stream

Dear all,
Two months after installing a new screen on my OnePlus 5T, the screen basically stopped working (black, sometimes flickering parts).
However: the touch function is still working. For example, I can still operate spotify, as I just know where I would have to press...
As I really wish to retrieve some information from the phone, or initiate data transfer to a new OnePlus, I would like to try screen streaming options.
Since I can't really operate any other app without seeing the screen, I wanted to force it from my computer via adb commands.
The phone is unlocked/rooted, and adb debugging enabled.
There are two approaches I would like try:
GitHub - Genymobile/scrcpy: Display and control your Android device
Display and control your Android device. Contribute to Genymobile/scrcpy development by creating an account on GitHub.
github.com
I am planning to run these approches on a virtual machine for linux/ubuntu on a windows 11 computer, and I got it so far, that the device is being recogniced by the <adb devices> command, showing the device number.
However, the phone is also unauthorized, potentially hindering me from continuing with scrcpy (and potentially any other adb driven approach).
Please find the following output.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Of course, the internet provides solutions to that problem but they all require me to use the screen of my phone. (Which technically is possible, but I just can't see where I am tapping/if popups come up etc.).
So here's my question(s):
Is adb-driven screen streaming the only option I have at that point?
Are these approaches reasonable, or is there an easier solution?
Is there a way to properly set up the adb connection, that is also compatible with the broken screen problem I experience?
As this seems to be a more general question, I wasn't sure where to put this thread, but I could imagine that many approaches could lead to a satisfying result.
Just in case everthing fails, I also ordered a new screen from china, but it will probably take around 3-4 weeks to arrive...
I would greatly appreciate any suggestions or feedback.
Thanks in advance!
Ulrich

TheSlashed said:
Dear all,
Two months after installing a new screen on my OnePlus 5T, the screen basically stopped working (black, sometimes flickering parts).
However: the touch function is still working. For example, I can still operate spotify, as I just know where I would have to press...
As I really wish to retrieve some information from the phone, or initiate data transfer to a new OnePlus, I would like to try screen streaming options.
Since I can't really operate any other app without seeing the screen, I wanted to force it from my computer via adb commands.
The phone is unlocked/rooted, and adb debugging enabled.
There are two approaches I would like try:
GitHub - Genymobile/scrcpy: Display and control your Android device
Display and control your Android device. Contribute to Genymobile/scrcpy development by creating an account on GitHub.
github.com
I am planning to run these approches on a virtual machine for linux/ubuntu on a windows 11 computer, and I got it so far, that the device is being recogniced by the <adb devices> command, showing the device number.
However, the phone is also unauthorized, potentially hindering me from continuing with scrcpy (and potentially any other adb driven approach).
Please find the following output.
View attachment 5756521
Of course, the internet provides solutions to that problem but they all require me to use the screen of my phone. (Which technically is possible, but I just can't see where I am tapping/if popups come up etc.).
So here's my question(s):
Is adb-driven screen streaming the only option I have at that point?
Are these approaches reasonable, or is there an easier solution?
Is there a way to properly set up the adb connection, that is also compatible with the broken screen problem I experience?
As this seems to be a more general question, I wasn't sure where to put this thread, but I could imagine that many approaches could lead to a satisfying result.
Just in case everthing fails, I also ordered a new screen from china, but it will probably take around 3-4 weeks to arrive...
I would greatly appreciate any suggestions or feedback.
Thanks in advance!
Ulrich
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it could be a hardware issue, most probably loose connection with the LCD Digitizer. you could try fixing it at a service or on your own.

Hey, and thanks!
You're right, it is most definitely a hardware issue. Hence, I ordered already a new screen.
Not sure if I want to break apart the whole phone again to check the connection to the LCD digitizer, if I can first try some software approaches...
The most pressing issue I have right now, is the missing authorization for usb debugging, as I can't answer any confirmation prompts send to the phone.