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Hello,
I recently got a Android Head Unit for my Citroen C4 2012 and it's a MTCD_MX.
I have some issues with date/time always resetting to 01-01-2012 00:00 after turning off the car and waiting a few minutes.
If I start car the within e.g. a minute or so both date and time are intact and correct, but if I wait more than minute to start the car, it reset to 01-01-2012 00:00...
Also I've tried to change the date and time settings in system settings by turning off the automatic date and time and automatic time zone.
But it makes no difference. I should say that if I keep the automatic settings as ON, the Head unit will retrieve time and date a lot quicker from the wifi-network in my car...
Also on another note I'm not able to save any radio stations, they are also being reset to default, and same above, if I start the car within a minute or so they are intact...
Is this something anyone can relate to and perhaps have suggestions on how fix this...?
I got a firmware update from the buyer but as many others here I'm not seeing it being applied.
I put the two firmware files on a sd card and the Head restarts by applying the update, but all dates and version numbers are the as before the update.
Perhaps I need to change the of the two files... Anyways any help regarding issues with date/time and radio stations are very much appreciated.
Here's my version info:
MTCD_MX_V1.71_1
Jul 19 2016 13:12:07
Android Version:
5.1.1
Kernel-Version:
3.0.10+
[email protected] #82
Fri Aug 19 20:4318 CST 2016
Version
rk3188-userdebug 22082016.13:25:35
Thanks
/Mattias
Hello,
From what I can tell, you have a problem with the wire connection. There is an always on wire and a wire that is working only when contact on. Check the connection plug. Better go to a specialized service.
Good luck!
Hi Kufu,
many thanks for the info.
My guess is that perhaps the two connectors from the main cable is in the wrong place in the head unit (see image below with number 1 and 2).
Perhaps I should try and switch places with these two connectors, what do you think?
Are there any chance of me short circuiting the head unit by doing this?
Below is a picture of the backend of the head unit with two connectors marked 1 and 2.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Also there are no wheelkeys available in the settings menu but some of them work anyways, perhaps this could be related to the same issue?
Besides the two connectors from the main cable, there aren't a lot of cables I can connect wrong...
Many thanks.
Hello,
DO NOT switch those two connectors as you shown in the picture. One connector is for power supply, illumination, etc. and the other one is for the speakers. You should have a diagram on the unit. Again, DO NOT try to switch those two connector, you CAN damage the unit. One connector is power input, the other one is speaker output.
As I said before, on the POWER connector, there are 2 cables with (+) from the battery. One that is always on, the other only when contact is on. Sometimes those two wires must be switched in the connector. If you do not know how to identify them, go to a specialist. Is not big deal but if done wrong you can damage the unit.
Best Regards,
Kufu
kufu said:
Hello,
DO NOT switch those two connectors as you shown in the picture. One connector is for power supply, illumination, etc. and the other one is for the speakers. You should have a diagram on the unit. Again, DO NOT try to switch those two connector, you CAN damage the unit. One connector is power input, the other one is speaker output.
As I said before, on the POWER connector, there are 2 cables with (+) from the battery. One that is always on, the other only when contact is on. Sometimes those two wires must be switched in the connector. If you do not know how to identify them, go to a specialist. Is not big deal but if done wrong you can damage the unit.
Best Regards,
Kufu
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Kufu
I've asked the seller about the "always on power", if this could be the issue.
The head unit should be for my make and model, which is Citroen C4 2012, it feels a bit strange to switch the wires in the connector.
I really do not think I should have to do this...
I'll keep you posted about the development.
mddsd said:
Thanks Kufu
I've asked the seller about the "always on power", if this could be the issue.
The head unit should be for my make and model, which is Citroen C4 2012, it feels a bit strange to switch the wires in the connector.
I really do not think I should have to do this...
I'll keep you posted about the development.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I have the same exact problem, according to picture I have the same unit as yours. The only difference is the car model mine is Peugeot 508 2012.
I have been in contact with my local dealer since the first day about this. They've replaced the unit, replaced CANBUS, replaced connections so far nothing. Yest he erday, my dealer replace the unit and the canbus,. Same again, does not save time or the radio presets. Now I have another issue, I lost the front parking sensors as well.
I wanted to flash the ROM with one of the custom ROMs but in my case, it's not an option because it's an in dash without panel. There is no way to get in or control recovery menu.
Did you find any solution?
Thanks
metinb said:
Hi,
I have the same exact problem, according to picture I have the same unit as yours. The only difference is the car model mine is Peugeot 508 2012.
I have been in contact with my local dealer since the first day about this. They've replaced the unit, replaced CANBUS, replaced connections so far nothing. Yest he erday, my dealer replace the unit and the canbus,. Same again, does not save time or the radio presets. Now I have another issue, I lost the front parking sensors as well.
I wanted to flash the ROM with one of the custom ROMs but in my case, it's not an option because it's an in dash without panel. There is no way to get in or control recovery menu.
Did you find any solution?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
according to the company I purchased the unit from, the solution according to them is to connect a second power connector that gives the unit low power and this should keep date/time and the saved radio stations...
I'm not buying this since the unit is sold as 100% supported by my make and model and all other connectors are 100% compatible. My own solution to the date/time issue was to use a 3G USB dongle that was fast enough to connect to the Internet and the date/time settings are set to get date/time from the network. This now works great since the unit has working Internet before bootup...
But the unit is not without issues, it seems that the manufacturer Witson (in my case) have left a few software issues that really need to be corrected. So I've sent a few emails to the manufacturer (with the permission of the official reseller). I'm waiting to hear back from Witson.
mddsd said:
Hi,
according to the company I purchased the unit from, the solution according to them is to connect a second power connector that gives the unit low power and this should keep date/time and the saved radio stations...
I'm not buying this since the unit is sold as 100% supported by my make and model and all other connectors are 100% compatible. My own solution to the date/time issue was to use a 3G USB dongle that was fast enough to connect to the Internet and the date/time settings are set to get date/time from the network. This now works great since the unit has working Internet before bootup...
But the unit is not without issues, it seems that the manufacturer Witson (in my case) have left a few software issues that really need to be corrected. So I've sent a few emails to the manufacturer (with the permission of the official reseller). I'm waiting to hear back from Witson.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Finally, I sorted the loosing radio preset issue. It turns out there are two power cables on the car's original connector. Both of them are alive when the main switch is off. However, one of them cuts off when car goes into economy mode. That' was the one android head units was connected to. All I need to do is to switch the power cable on the supplied connector. which came with the head unit. Now, I do not loose any radio presets and GPS stays connected - No waiting time to connect after each boot. .
Hope this would be the same case for your make.
However I still have issues with the CanBus decoder.
So far, I tried two.
1) Bagoo (PSA) > all parking sensors are working. buttons on dashboard are well configured but cannot say the same for SW. Cannot answer the phone, and all right side buttons are operating to switch between open apps or change source). There is no door open warning and On dashboard monochrome screen radio displays as off so there is no feedback from CanBUS to car.
2) Simple (PSA 408) > Only rear parking sensors are working. all most all dashboard buttons does the same operation and it's not possible to turn off the radio. On the other hand displays if door(s) is open, can see the radio status on dashboard monochrome screen but only source type. Does not display any info about playing radio station or track number. It's also possible to configure Car configuration and memorized speeds for cruise control.
I decided to keep Bagoo because did not want to loose front parking sensors and more comfortable with all dashboard buttons. But it still annoys me I have to answer the phone only from screen or phone itself.
Which canbus are you using?
Thanks
Metin
metinb said:
Hi,
Finally, I sorted the loosing radio preset issue. It turns out there are two power cables on the car's original connector. Both of them are alive when the main switch is off. However, one of them cuts off when car goes into economy mode. That' was the one android head units was connected to. All I need to do is to switch the power cable on the supplied connector. which came with the head unit. Now, I do not loose any radio presets and GPS stays connected - No waiting time to connect after each boot. .
Hope this would be the same case for your make.
However I still have issues with the CanBus decoder.
So far, I tried two.
1) Bagoo (PSA) > all parking sensors are working. buttons on dashboard are well configured but cannot say the same for SW. Cannot answer the phone, and all right side buttons are operating to switch between open apps or change source). There is no door open warning and On dashboard monochrome screen radio displays as off so there is no feedback from CanBUS to car.
2) Simple (PSA 408) > Only rear parking sensors are working. all most all dashboard buttons does the same operation and it's not possible to turn off the radio. On the other hand displays if door(s) is open, can see the radio status on dashboard monochrome screen but only source type. Does not display any info about playing radio station or track number. It's also possible to configure Car configuration and memorized speeds for cruise control.
I decided to keep Bagoo because did not want to loose front parking sensors and more comfortable with all dashboard buttons. But it still annoys me I have to answer the phone only from screen or phone itself.
Which canbus are you using?
Thanks
Metin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's good news
Not being able to save the radio stations are annoying.
The GPS takes a while to get a position so if that will speed things up as well, that's great.
I'm bit confused as to which cables I need to switch?
Are they on the connectors that came with the head unit, if so which ones?
I currently using PSA Bagoo, I've tried quite a few different Canbus settings but this is the best one I could find, although it's far from complete and working...
A handful of buttons are working, although all buttons for the climate control are working, it's just that the onscreen information shows the wrong temperature, it's off by 4 degrees Celsius (both on left and right side). And there is no warning or information regarding open doors etc.
mddsd said:
That's good news
Not being able to save the radio stations are annoying.
The GPS takes a while to get a position so if that will speed things up as well, that's great.
I'm bit confused as to which cables I need to switch?
Are they on the connectors that came with the head unit, if so which ones?
I currently using PSA Bagoo, I've tried quite a few different Canbus settings but this is the best one I could find, although it's far from complete and working...
A handful of buttons are working, although all buttons for the climate control are working, it's just that the onscreen information shows the wrong temperature, it's off by 4 degrees Celsius (both on left and right side). And there is no warning or information regarding open doors etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, you need to do the switch power cable on the connector came with unit. (on big black side connected to car's original).
1) With a tester you need to find out the second power source on the original car's connector.
a) First turn on the switch to make sure the car is not in the economy mode then switch off and pull out the key.
b) With the tester you need to find the location of the power cables. (you should have two)
2) Determine which of the power cable goes to unit. > Only one of the power is going to unit through big black connector. The other power cable goes to empty leg.
3) disconnected big black connector.
4) On the big black connector (came with the unit) switch the power to the place where the other power comes in.
metinb said:
Yes, you need to do the switch power cable on the connector came with unit. (on big black side connected to car's original).
1) With a tester you need to find out the second power source on the original car's connector.
a) First turn on the switch to make sure the car is not in the economy mode then switch off and pull out the key.
b) With the tester you need to find the location of the power cables. (you should have two)
2) Determine which of the power cable goes to unit. > Only one of the power is going to unit through big black connector. The other power cable goes to empty leg.
3) disconnected big black connector.
4) On the big black connector (came with the unit) switch the power to the place where the other power comes in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, I really appreciate the help
So basically it's the wrong power that's connected to the unit and I just need to switch cables?
mddsd said:
Thank you, I really appreciate the help
So basically it's the wrong power that's connected to the unit and I just need to switch cables?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Happy to help.
Yes, that was it!
Hi there,
found that topic by accident as I have same issued with radio stations / time.
Short question: According to what I found on the web, there are two pins (11 and 12), that give 12v power to radio. Am I right that I need to switch from Pin 12 to 11 on the car radio adapter to get time/radio stations beeing saved working?
BR
Christian
Hello,
I've got MTCE unit (PX3) that I'm trying to install into Toyota truck. I've had another unit in previously and it had a reversing camera that was activated when the reverse was engaged by a dedicated wire in a harness. I've connected my camera to Video-In connector (H-5 on the attached harness). I can see video fine if I run AVID application, so this is working. What is not working is automatic engagement when I put the car in the reverse.
I can't seems to find a dedicated reverse signal. I understand that it may detect reverse through CanBus and I've connected included CanBus decoder to the unit, however it still doesn't work.
Am I missing something and what would the recommended troubleshooting suggestions?
Hi,
You are doing it wrong. You should not connect the video signal to Video IN of the unit. This way - the picture will show only when you launch the AVIN application. You should connect it to the CAMERA or REVERSE labeled plug. What is the G plug for ? Is it for a reverse camera or Car DVR ?
You can power up the camera (+12V and GND) from the white reverse light.
Thanks for the reply, however I can't sadly see any REVERSE or CAMERA labeled connectors on my unit. Plug G has microphone cable and that is it (see attached). Plug H has also a connector labeled DR-V and main connector has something labeled CCD-IN. I've tried plugging my camera to these connectors and sadly none of them seems to show camera feed when the reverse is engaged. Any other ideas on how I can get camera to work?
SuperPuper2K said:
Thanks for the reply, however I can't sadly see any REVERSE or CAMERA labeled connectors on my unit. Plug G has microphone cable and that is it (see attached). Plug H has also a connector labeled DR-V and main connector has something labeled CCD-IN. I've tried plugging my camera to these connectors and sadly none of them seems to show camera feed when the reverse is engaged. Any other ideas on how I can get camera to work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you bought it, was it advertised as having this capability? If so, I'd try to get a refund. Mine (and most others that I've seen) that have reverse functionality have a dedicated video in line that's labeled as such.
See K 5 and 6.
Hazard15301 said:
When you bought it, was it advertised as having this capability? If so, I'd try to get a refund. Mine (and most others that I've seen) that have reverse functionality have a dedicated video in line that's labeled as such.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the unit has reversing camera as an option and sadly the seller is less then helpful in resolving this issue. Having looked on the forums I can see that even when the camera is not connected the head unit should switch to black screen when reverse is engaged. In my case it doesn't do that. Does it mean that something is not working with CAN bus decoder? I've looked through factory settings and tried all options available for my car manufacturer and sadly they didn't make any difference.
Is there a way to test CAN bus decoder to see if it is working at all or not?
I have a reversing camera problem albeit a different one, that's been worse today. Sometimes after I finish reversing the camera image stays on the screen, frozen. I don't know if something's wrong with the reverse detection input or the camera video signal. I've had this with other units of the same model (KSP) or at least they were also MTCD PX5. My thought is to play with the resistances to the MCU. For now if I reboot it's back to normal.
SuperPuper2K said:
Am I missing something and what would the recommended troubleshooting suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your reverse camera should go to the main power connector 5th pin(CAM-IN) and reverse trigger line should go to 6th pin(CAM-LINE).
Ideally your main power connector should have yellow video in connector which connects ground and 5th pin.
smnrock said:
Your reverse camera should go to the main power connector 5th pin(CAM-IN) and reverse trigger line should go to 6th pin(CAM-LINE).
Ideally your main power connector should have yellow video in connector which connects ground and 5th pin.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You've just made my day. This was exactly the solution to my issue. The wires were connected to some strange connector, however after I've rewired it to my camera everything started working just fine.
Thanks a lot for your help.
hello
I have exact same issue, with wireless camera connector , have yellow connector to ccd in and nothing changes maybe somebody could draw scheme how to connect to head unit , have same connector.
I had been using my unit for more than 6 months and everything was great, I got home from school during spring break and installed my rear view camera. Camera works fine, however, now there is no sound from anything. I uninstalled this unit and re-installed the original from the car and everything was fine all speaker worked as did volume and changing stations. Re-installed the Dasaita unit again no sound. I tested all the plug and play wires from plug to plug and there were no shorts and all wires passed a continuity test with my voltmeter. I tried undoing all the rear camera work that I did, this didn't change anything. I have factory reset the unit more time than I can count. I also installed the newest software and firmware updates (MTCE version: V3.45 and MAX6 Version : PX6 HA2_rk3399_9.0_ota(20200320)).
There is no sound from the radio, from Apple Car Play, not even sound from the side unit volume buttons.
My car is a 2008 Honda civic LX, and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I am currently out of ideas.
Thank you,
Austin
Same exact thing happened to me.
Are you using the RCA outputs into an amp, or the speaker-level outputs via the 20pin connector on the back of the head unit? Have your CanBus settings in the Factory Settings changed at all?
20pin connector. I had to install a new motherboard that I got from Daisata due to my wifi not working on the previous board they sent me. Now I have no wifi and no audio with this board. I tried all the CanBus settings that match my Jeep, but no audio. The steering wheel controls do work, so it seems like I have the right CanBus selected.
When all audio goes, including button beeps all you can say is it's dead Jim. How dead might make the difference between sending it back or fixing it. Of course make sure it's not on mute. You could always start by contacting your seller for warranty. Next connect an amplified speaker to the RCA line out, if you get sound that means the amplifier IC is not working and it's a fairly easy fix. Unless you had other issues with audio before it's likely bad solder joints on the amplifier pins. You could re-heat the pins with an iron but it would be better to remove the old solder and replace it with good 60/40 lead solder.
---------- Post added at 07:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:06 PM ----------
Took me a while to post the previous one and I just saw your new post. Is there another board that connects to the motherboard? Units with 2 boards have a MCU and a SoM. The USB comes from the SoM and goes to a hub on the MCU. The WiFi board is connected through USB, check if your USB ports work. The pins of the female SoM connector can get damaged, some people have fixed it with metal foil as mentioned in the warning on this thread.
BrokenDasaita said:
20pin connector. I had to install a new motherboard that I got from Daisata due to my wifi not working on the previous board they sent me. Now I have no wifi and no audio with this board. I tried all the CanBus settings that match my Jeep, but no audio. The steering wheel controls do work, so it seems like I have the right CanBus selected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In the CanBus settings in the Factory Settings, there is a selection "With Amplifier/Without Amplifier" and as far as I can see, this selects which outputs you are using (ie speaker-level outputs on the 20 pin connector, or line-level outputs via the RCA connectors). It also does some other things likes make parts of the DSP unavailable, but try flipping this selection and see if you get sound.
I think that refers to whether you have the built in amplifier that comes with some Jeep models or not. Unfortunately, I tried both options and neither work.
Were you able to get this resolved?
I have the same problem with my Honda Civic 2012 LX.
I have the same problem.
I bougth a new head unit. Everything works exept the sound.
But the System Sounds and the radio also work. I tried different can settings also without can.
Hi
I have purchased an Android HeadUnit for my Renault Megane 2 (2007) from AliExpress. Every function works except the steering wheel controls. The unit has the UIS7862 CPU @1.8Ghz, 6gb Ram and 128gb storage. I have installed the CanBox correctly and tried many CanBox settings in factory menu, but I cannot get the control app to enter learning mode. Does anyone have any idea? Maybe the built in key map application is at fault (com.syu.steer).
Did you find a solution to your problem yet?
I'm stuck at the exact same scenario, same unit. The support over at AliExpress mention to me to select "XP" for canbox settings. However, my canbus module is by Raise, hence I should be using the "RZC"
Also, my reverse cam doesnt work too.
Pls share your findings. Thank you!
I got the steering wheel keys to work with a custom controller made by an engineer in my country specifically for my car and my HeadUnit. The controller is connected directly to the wheel controls and the "key" wire on my HeadUnit. I had to disassembly the steering wheel base and route the cable around the original one. Now I can map every key to an action in the Key Learning app. For the backup camera, because I used a wireless kit, I couldn't use the "back" camera wire to trigger the HeadUnit to switch to it. The kit came with a receiver which only had power wires and a yellow RCA cable. I wired the receiver's power cables to the ACC power so that the receiver only powers on when the engine is running and I managed to map a button on the steering wheel to switch to the RCA input. Now when I want to use back up camera, I just need to press a button to see the image. The camera's transmitter is wired to the license plate bulb and I managed to fit it in the rear bumper.
This wasn't a "plug and play" experience that the Chinese seller promised, but overall I can say I am pretty happy with the end result. The audio quality is wayyy better than the stock HeadUnit. I didn't know that my stock speakers could get that loud and have so much bass. The DSP chip does it's job wonderfully. Also the radio reception is better than with the stock unit. The Android HeadUnit is fast and snappy. Apps open almost instantly and those 6gb of ram really help. I could compare the overall user experience with my OnePlus 7 phone. The unit also cold boots very quickly. The wifi reception is pretty poor. The unit shows 75% signal when my phone is in the car. It doesn't bother me because I put a Sim card in the unit and the mobile reception is as good as on my phone.
andrei-2200 said:
I got the steering wheel keys to work with a custom controller made by an engineer in my country specifically for my car and my HeadUnit. The controller is connected directly to the wheel controls and the "key" wire on my HeadUnit. I had to disassembly the steering wheel base and route the cable around the original one. Now I can map every key to an action in the Key Learning app. For the backup camera, because I used a wireless kit, I couldn't use the "back" camera wire to trigger the HeadUnit to switch to it. The kit came with a receiver which only had power wires and a yellow RCA cable. I wired the receiver's power cables to the ACC power so that the receiver only powers on when the engine is running and I managed to map a button on the steering wheel to switch to the RCA input. Now when I want to use back up camera, I just need to press a button to see the image. The camera's transmitter is wired to the license plate bulb and I managed to fit it in the rear bumper.
This wasn't a "plug and play" experience that the Chinese seller promised, but overall I can say I am pretty happy with the end result. The audio quality is wayyy better than the stock HeadUnit. I didn't know that my stock speakers could get that loud and have so much bass. The DSP chip does it's job wonderfully. Also the radio reception is better than with the stock unit. The Android HeadUnit is fast and snappy. Apps open almost instantly and those 6gb of ram really help. I could compare the overall user experience with my OnePlus 7 phone. The unit also cold boots very quickly. The wifi reception is pretty poor. The unit shows 75% signal when my phone is in the car. It doesn't bother me because I put a Sim card in the unit and the mobile reception is as good as on my phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
MasK said:
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You connected the reverse wire?
Maybe this triggers the camera view of it doesn't work via the canbus.
Well, it does work via canbus, just doesnt switch to cam input automatically. Perhaps its some software settings.
MasK said:
Well, it does work via canbus, just doesnt switch to cam input automatically. Perhaps its some software settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all canbus provide the reverse signal. So maybe you have to provide the reverse signal on the separate input.
TorstenH said:
Not all canbus provide the reverse signal. So maybe you have to provide the reverse signal on the separate input.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I feel that the HU knows when I am referring (CANBUS might be working here), because the 12V turns on when Im in reverse. The only issue is the HU doesnt switch to the cam automatically. Looks to me like a SW issue. Still awaiting reply from manufacturer.
Also, I realised my backward/forward buttons are swapped. Why is it I can't re-learn them?
It may not be the same for the Navifly, but on my unit, G5 must get the proper voltage to "detect" the car has been put in reverse. I'm re-using my factory rear view camera and it's a 6.5V camera. However, I had to up the voltage to 8.6V so that G5 go that voltage...then the rear image showed up. I reused the car wiring and that's why I had to do this.
Check the voltage that G5 is getting. With a canbus module, I believe there is a wire from the canbus going to G5. If no voltage, make sure the pins are in properly.
FYI, if you are using a canbus and the steering wheel controls go through the canbus, then I believe that you cannot remap the keys.
The 12 V from the reverse wire are coming from your car (or in some cases from the canbox if the information gets transmitted from car to the box via canbus).
My suggestion is:
There is a separate reverse connection (usually a brown wire) on the head unit which triggers the radio to open the app which shows the image of the reverse cam.
You could even connect ACC or B+ to the reverse connection for testing purposes.
mastrv said:
It may not be the same for the Navifly, but on my unit, G5 must get the proper voltage to "detect" the car has been put in reverse. I'm re-using my factory rear view camera and it's a 6.5V camera. However, I had to up the voltage to 8.6V so that G5 go that voltage...then the rear image showed up. I reused the car wiring and that's why I had to do this.
Check the voltage that G5 is getting. With a canbus module, I believe there is a wire from the canbus going to G5. If no voltage, make sure the pins are in properly.
FYI, if you are using a canbus and the steering wheel controls go through the canbus, then I believe that you cannot remap the keys.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Absolutely correct.
Thanks guys, but there is no other brown wire for this.
I have a discussion abt this on this thread too:
Medeke/Navifly 7862
Hi, Recently received above unit for my 2006 RS4. everything is great (much better then the M400 I had before) apart from the radio. It seemed to work for the first 2 days, then worked intermittently and now not at all. I have tried...
forum.xda-developers.com
My "cam12V" wire is from the HU and it turns on when I am in reverse. Does this mean that this signal might be coming from my canbus? If so, is there another input back to the HU to trigger the screen to display the video feed? Only other wires I see are AMP related
Give 12V to pin 2 and check if the app to display the image of the cam will start:
TorstenH said:
Give 12V to pin 2 and check if the app to display the image of the cam will start:
View attachment 5374441
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Yes! It took me a while to figure this out.. mainly because I'll have to cut the wire (wasn't very confident in that)
and also.. the wires at Pin2 didn't make sense! They were more like Battery12V. I did cut and tested that.
So.. it turns out its a pink wire at pin3!
I realized this as I looked at my old Dasaita wires from the canbus connector. Since canbus is a standard, they should be comparable. That reverse wire went into Pin3.
I'm really surprised that Mekede and Navifly has this pin layout printed in all their listings.. but it's just wrong.
Thanks alot for the help!
That means it works now? I think you had to cut the ACC wire according to the manual because the "ignition on" information is provided by the can box.
TorstenH said:
That means it works now? I think you had to cut the ACC wire according to the manual because the "ignition on" information is provided by the can box.
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Yes it works now. Check out the images. The Pin2 (red) is probably ACC or batt 12V as there was no power when cut. I then cut the wire opposite it (pin10) in case I was looking at the connector wrongly. That turned out to be the headlight sensor.
After tracing the wire and comparing to my old Daisata, it turns out Pin3 (pink) is the reverse IN.
Excellent. Thanks for the clarification.
That means it makes sense to get the wiring diagram from the old radio of the car and compare it with the description of the new head unit.
In my case I had to completely rewire the harness (just if someone is interested):
Junsun V1 MTK8259 - the adapter battle (Kia Ceed Jd) / OEM camera usage / reference thread
I bought the Junsun V1 head unit but my Kia Ceed JD had a OEM nav unit which isn't directly compatible to Junsun V1. So I re-wired the wiring harness based on the pins description of my original OEM navigation unit. I'm only modifying the wiring...
forum.xda-developers.com
The only thing that I could compare to (between old and new HUs) is the canbus connectors. Rest cannot be compared as they're all different.
Oh well..
Anyways, the current Mekede I have has Radio chip NX6686. My old Dasaita PX5 also has a NX6686. However, the radio reception is absolutely trash in the new one. I dont listen to radio that often (I can resort to streaming radio) but my dad takes the car occasionally and he's already complained about it
Your experience on the harness rewiring is pretty intense!
Update: Turns out my Antenna connector was a tad loose and I had to do a re-connect. The radio reception is all good now
MasK said:
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
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So you found correct canbus settings and connections .. i cant find anything about you sharing them
Hi all, first post. I have this Joying headunit installed in my Toyota Tacoma:
https://www.joyingauto.com/joying-latest-9-inch-android-10-0-car-gps-navigation-system-for-toyota-corolla-2017-2018.html
The issue is that the mics, internal and external, are awful. A ton of road noise and its just generally impossible for anyone to ever hear me (or anything besides a ton of static-y road noise crap).
I have read some posts on here and tried to fix it by doing these things so far:
cutting the wires from the internal mic completely so the external mic is the only one in use
replacing the Joying provided external mic with a better quality one
Still the issues remain the same.
I have read on other threads that this could be due to a poorly designed/laid out PCB by having alot of electrical interference from the connection of the external mic to the board over to the bluetooth module.
Should I try to disable the connection of the external mic and solder in some shielded wires directly to the connections on the bluetooth module?
I havent found anyone that has had this issue with this specific headunit so I'm just posting here for some guidance on what steps I can take next to sort this out.
Hello.
If you have factory settings and know PIn for access go to menu VOLUME and decrease volume for microphone or set it at value 0, then on menu OTHER activate option if you have it DENOISE.
Next step see that wires of mic (if external and connected on the back of unit) at the back are not damaged.
See also settings for bluetooth in factory settings on menus OTHER and VOLUME - bluetooth version must be at least set to value 4, at VOLUME set BT value 0 or +2 max.
You could try an usb microphone. Some head units support it and it would bypass all the pcb flaws.
Unfortunately this head unit does not support USB microphones and also there are no adjustable mic settings to access (even in developer/factory settings menu which require a passcode of "3368")
Any other ideas?
stressedstrain said:
Unfortunately this head unit does not support USB microphones and also there are no adjustable mic settings to access (even in developer/factory settings menu which require a passcode of "3368")
Any other ideas?
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Then it is internal mic. Go to settings of device and find any setting containing mic or audio controls, must be there. Or you can download and use LESSER audio switch application from Google play store and configure mic there if exists.
I have the same issue on the 10 inches JY-HQ101N4G for my civic. Below 50km/h the audio is ok. If I accelerate or drive more than 50km/h the other can't understand me. I recorded it and it's very awfull....
Unfortunately no usb or Bluetooth are supported... And disabling the internal mic with lesser seems to make it slightly worse.
Have someone found a solution on it or suggestion?
Thanks
If you have some option in car settings that control and volumes up or down sound when speeding deactivate it.
Found the issue for me that probably afflicts others.
The headunit microphone connector is metallized on the outside and, especially with the vibration from engine and suspensions, can touch the external metallic case causing bursts and distortions. The air between the connector and the case is less then 1mm.
It's enough to put an isolator tape around the connector and now it works perfectly. Unfortunately I had to open the case and remove the board to apply the tape.
ramonlap81 said:
Found the issue for me that probably afflicts others.
The headunit microphone connector is metallized on the outside and, especially with the vibration from engine and suspensions, can touch the external metallic case causing bursts and distortions. The air between the connector and the case is less then 1mm.
It's enough to put an isolator tape around the connector and now it works perfectly. Unfortunately I had to open the case and remove the board to apply the tape.
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Click to collapse
I would certainly report this to Joying. Try to get some money back. This is clearly a production/design error.
Thanks for the tip! I had a similar problem and it worked for me.
blue_one said:
You could try an usb microphone. Some head units support it and it would bypass all the pcb flaws.
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Click to collapse
blue_one said:
You could try an usb microphone. Some head units support it and it would bypass all the pcb flaws.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the tip! I had a similar problem and it worked for me.
ramonlap81 said:
Found the issue for me that probably afflicts others.
The headunit microphone connector is metallized on the outside and, especially with the vibration from engine and suspensions, can touch the external metallic case causing bursts and distortions. The air between the connector and the case is less then 1mm.
It's enough to put an isolator tape around the connector and now it works perfectly. Unfortunately I had to open the case and remove the board to apply the tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have any pictures of this?
I was able to fix the issue on a Mekede unit by finding a mic that happens to work well -- in my case it seemed to be an issue with mic specs rather than quality. I managed to find an inexpensive mic on amazon that worked really well. See my post here:
Mekede Headunit Microphone Quality
Folks, I'm at my wits end and hope someone here can help. I purchased a Mekede M300 Android head unit (I believe this is a rebranded Joying unit) over a month ago for my wife's Honda HR-V 2017. Installation was fairly straightforward and any...
forum.xda-developers.com
ramonlap81 said:
Found the issue for me that probably afflicts others.
The headunit microphone connector is metallized on the outside and, especially with the vibration from engine and suspensions, can touch the external metallic case causing bursts and distortions. The air between the connector and the case is less then 1mm.
It's enough to put an isolator tape around the connector and now it works perfectly. Unfortunately I had to open the case and remove the board to apply the tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i tried this over the weekend and so far so good! i actually had to drill out the hole a bit more to give a small air gap around it but i think its made a noticeable difference.
was a bit annoying to disassemble almost the entire unit to get the backplate standalone for drilling but only took about an hour start to finish.
thanks for the tip! only person ive seen suggest it at least in the searching that I did.
Does anyone know how to control the sensitivity of the BT microphone? External microphone connected. Please how to find fiction step by step. Thank you
Patryk1101 said:
Does anyone know how to control the sensitivity of the BT microphone? External microphone connected. Please how to find fiction step by step. Thank you
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Again??
How many times did you now ask this? Two people have pointed you to the possible config.txt options.
That is all there is to it.
Asking this again and again, will not help you.
just step by step?
surfer63 said:
Again??
How many times did you now ask this?
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18 of 19 posts directly asking this. The other 1 post is an image of system info.
Patryk1101 said:
Does anyone know how to control the sensitivity of the BT microphone? External microphone connected. Please how to find fiction step by step.
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Click to collapse
It is all explained in the main General FYT based Spreadtrum uis7862 (unisoc ums512) - Q&A, Mods, tips, firmware thread.
It is necessary to do your own reading and research and put in some effort. Everything is detailed in that thread. Step by step instructions have also been posted for this and many other tweaks to the config.txt file.
People can't hold your hand every time.
I will put this as basic as I can, step by step...
Steps 1-4 create a backup. Step 5-6 explains the Bluetooth tweak, that didn't work for me.
1. Please download the backup script from here
2. You need a blank USB flash drive formatted as FAT32. Right click the USB drive in Windows and select Format, choose FAT32.
Extract the files to the root of the empty USB flash drive.
If you did this correctly when you open the flash drive you should see 1 folder and 7 files.
3. Insert the USB flash drive to your head unit and press start when you receive a popup saying firmware detected. If you don't get a popup then you did something wrong already. Go back and try 2 again.
4. The unit will restart with some script messages running. Let it complete and wait 5 seconds after it has finished then remove the USB flash drive.
You should now have a backup folder on the flash drive with 4 files (AllAppUpdate.bin, config.txt, updatecfg.txt and either lsec6315update or lsec6316update).
Keep this backup somewhere safe. The AllAppUpdate.bin and config.txt are what's needed to revert back to a previous state.
5. Take your config.txt file and add the following 4 lines at the bottom.
Code:
persist.sys.zlink.mic.vol=9.9
persist.audio.mic.senstivity=1
persist.btmic.gain=10
persist.btspk.gain=7
6. Put the modified config.txt and lsec6315update/lsec6316update on to an empty FAT32 USB flash drive and insert in to your head unit. Press start when prompted and let it reboot and flash the unit.
7. After doing all the above you will probably notice that it made very little difference or no difference at all. The external microphones provided with these head units are usually very cheap.
Buy a decent external microphone or connect your cars original mic if it has 1.
Originally I had terrible mic audio with both the internal and external mics.
I connected my cars OEM mic to the external mic jack and disabled the internal mic with tape on the ribbon cable. This tape has come off and the mic audio is still great.
j0hn83​
Just take a video and put it here or link to it on google disk, or else it will be a hundred times more.
ramonlap81 said:
Found the issue for me that probably afflicts others.
The headunit microphone connector is metallized on the outside and, especially with the vibration from engine and suspensions, can touch the external metallic case causing bursts and distortions. The air between the connector and the case is less then 1mm.
It's enough to put an isolator tape around the connector and now it works perfectly. Unfortunately I had to open the case and remove the board to apply the tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you please post a picture, from your description I can not come up with the right place/thing that needs to be isolated.