Hi
I have purchased an Android HeadUnit for my Renault Megane 2 (2007) from AliExpress. Every function works except the steering wheel controls. The unit has the UIS7862 CPU @1.8Ghz, 6gb Ram and 128gb storage. I have installed the CanBox correctly and tried many CanBox settings in factory menu, but I cannot get the control app to enter learning mode. Does anyone have any idea? Maybe the built in key map application is at fault (com.syu.steer).
Did you find a solution to your problem yet?
I'm stuck at the exact same scenario, same unit. The support over at AliExpress mention to me to select "XP" for canbox settings. However, my canbus module is by Raise, hence I should be using the "RZC"
Also, my reverse cam doesnt work too.
Pls share your findings. Thank you!
I got the steering wheel keys to work with a custom controller made by an engineer in my country specifically for my car and my HeadUnit. The controller is connected directly to the wheel controls and the "key" wire on my HeadUnit. I had to disassembly the steering wheel base and route the cable around the original one. Now I can map every key to an action in the Key Learning app. For the backup camera, because I used a wireless kit, I couldn't use the "back" camera wire to trigger the HeadUnit to switch to it. The kit came with a receiver which only had power wires and a yellow RCA cable. I wired the receiver's power cables to the ACC power so that the receiver only powers on when the engine is running and I managed to map a button on the steering wheel to switch to the RCA input. Now when I want to use back up camera, I just need to press a button to see the image. The camera's transmitter is wired to the license plate bulb and I managed to fit it in the rear bumper.
This wasn't a "plug and play" experience that the Chinese seller promised, but overall I can say I am pretty happy with the end result. The audio quality is wayyy better than the stock HeadUnit. I didn't know that my stock speakers could get that loud and have so much bass. The DSP chip does it's job wonderfully. Also the radio reception is better than with the stock unit. The Android HeadUnit is fast and snappy. Apps open almost instantly and those 6gb of ram really help. I could compare the overall user experience with my OnePlus 7 phone. The unit also cold boots very quickly. The wifi reception is pretty poor. The unit shows 75% signal when my phone is in the car. It doesn't bother me because I put a Sim card in the unit and the mobile reception is as good as on my phone.
andrei-2200 said:
I got the steering wheel keys to work with a custom controller made by an engineer in my country specifically for my car and my HeadUnit. The controller is connected directly to the wheel controls and the "key" wire on my HeadUnit. I had to disassembly the steering wheel base and route the cable around the original one. Now I can map every key to an action in the Key Learning app. For the backup camera, because I used a wireless kit, I couldn't use the "back" camera wire to trigger the HeadUnit to switch to it. The kit came with a receiver which only had power wires and a yellow RCA cable. I wired the receiver's power cables to the ACC power so that the receiver only powers on when the engine is running and I managed to map a button on the steering wheel to switch to the RCA input. Now when I want to use back up camera, I just need to press a button to see the image. The camera's transmitter is wired to the license plate bulb and I managed to fit it in the rear bumper.
This wasn't a "plug and play" experience that the Chinese seller promised, but overall I can say I am pretty happy with the end result. The audio quality is wayyy better than the stock HeadUnit. I didn't know that my stock speakers could get that loud and have so much bass. The DSP chip does it's job wonderfully. Also the radio reception is better than with the stock unit. The Android HeadUnit is fast and snappy. Apps open almost instantly and those 6gb of ram really help. I could compare the overall user experience with my OnePlus 7 phone. The unit also cold boots very quickly. The wifi reception is pretty poor. The unit shows 75% signal when my phone is in the car. It doesn't bother me because I put a Sim card in the unit and the mobile reception is as good as on my phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
MasK said:
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You connected the reverse wire?
Maybe this triggers the camera view of it doesn't work via the canbus.
Well, it does work via canbus, just doesnt switch to cam input automatically. Perhaps its some software settings.
MasK said:
Well, it does work via canbus, just doesnt switch to cam input automatically. Perhaps its some software settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all canbus provide the reverse signal. So maybe you have to provide the reverse signal on the separate input.
TorstenH said:
Not all canbus provide the reverse signal. So maybe you have to provide the reverse signal on the separate input.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I feel that the HU knows when I am referring (CANBUS might be working here), because the 12V turns on when Im in reverse. The only issue is the HU doesnt switch to the cam automatically. Looks to me like a SW issue. Still awaiting reply from manufacturer.
Also, I realised my backward/forward buttons are swapped. Why is it I can't re-learn them?
It may not be the same for the Navifly, but on my unit, G5 must get the proper voltage to "detect" the car has been put in reverse. I'm re-using my factory rear view camera and it's a 6.5V camera. However, I had to up the voltage to 8.6V so that G5 go that voltage...then the rear image showed up. I reused the car wiring and that's why I had to do this.
Check the voltage that G5 is getting. With a canbus module, I believe there is a wire from the canbus going to G5. If no voltage, make sure the pins are in properly.
FYI, if you are using a canbus and the steering wheel controls go through the canbus, then I believe that you cannot remap the keys.
The 12 V from the reverse wire are coming from your car (or in some cases from the canbox if the information gets transmitted from car to the box via canbus).
My suggestion is:
There is a separate reverse connection (usually a brown wire) on the head unit which triggers the radio to open the app which shows the image of the reverse cam.
You could even connect ACC or B+ to the reverse connection for testing purposes.
mastrv said:
It may not be the same for the Navifly, but on my unit, G5 must get the proper voltage to "detect" the car has been put in reverse. I'm re-using my factory rear view camera and it's a 6.5V camera. However, I had to up the voltage to 8.6V so that G5 go that voltage...then the rear image showed up. I reused the car wiring and that's why I had to do this.
Check the voltage that G5 is getting. With a canbus module, I believe there is a wire from the canbus going to G5. If no voltage, make sure the pins are in properly.
FYI, if you are using a canbus and the steering wheel controls go through the canbus, then I believe that you cannot remap the keys.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Absolutely correct.
Thanks guys, but there is no other brown wire for this.
I have a discussion abt this on this thread too:
Medeke/Navifly 7862
Hi, Recently received above unit for my 2006 RS4. everything is great (much better then the M400 I had before) apart from the radio. It seemed to work for the first 2 days, then worked intermittently and now not at all. I have tried...
forum.xda-developers.com
My "cam12V" wire is from the HU and it turns on when I am in reverse. Does this mean that this signal might be coming from my canbus? If so, is there another input back to the HU to trigger the screen to display the video feed? Only other wires I see are AMP related
Give 12V to pin 2 and check if the app to display the image of the cam will start:
TorstenH said:
Give 12V to pin 2 and check if the app to display the image of the cam will start:
View attachment 5374441
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes! It took me a while to figure this out.. mainly because I'll have to cut the wire (wasn't very confident in that)
and also.. the wires at Pin2 didn't make sense! They were more like Battery12V. I did cut and tested that.
So.. it turns out its a pink wire at pin3!
I realized this as I looked at my old Dasaita wires from the canbus connector. Since canbus is a standard, they should be comparable. That reverse wire went into Pin3.
I'm really surprised that Mekede and Navifly has this pin layout printed in all their listings.. but it's just wrong.
Thanks alot for the help!
That means it works now? I think you had to cut the ACC wire according to the manual because the "ignition on" information is provided by the can box.
TorstenH said:
That means it works now? I think you had to cut the ACC wire according to the manual because the "ignition on" information is provided by the can box.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it works now. Check out the images. The Pin2 (red) is probably ACC or batt 12V as there was no power when cut. I then cut the wire opposite it (pin10) in case I was looking at the connector wrongly. That turned out to be the headlight sensor.
After tracing the wire and comparing to my old Daisata, it turns out Pin3 (pink) is the reverse IN.
Excellent. Thanks for the clarification.
That means it makes sense to get the wiring diagram from the old radio of the car and compare it with the description of the new head unit.
In my case I had to completely rewire the harness (just if someone is interested):
Junsun V1 MTK8259 - the adapter battle (Kia Ceed Jd) / OEM camera usage / reference thread
I bought the Junsun V1 head unit but my Kia Ceed JD had a OEM nav unit which isn't directly compatible to Junsun V1. So I re-wired the wiring harness based on the pins description of my original OEM navigation unit. I'm only modifying the wiring...
forum.xda-developers.com
The only thing that I could compare to (between old and new HUs) is the canbus connectors. Rest cannot be compared as they're all different.
Oh well..
Anyways, the current Mekede I have has Radio chip NX6686. My old Dasaita PX5 also has a NX6686. However, the radio reception is absolutely trash in the new one. I dont listen to radio that often (I can resort to streaming radio) but my dad takes the car occasionally and he's already complained about it
Your experience on the harness rewiring is pretty intense!
Update: Turns out my Antenna connector was a tad loose and I had to do a re-connect. The radio reception is all good now
MasK said:
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you found correct canbus settings and connections .. i cant find anything about you sharing them
Related
Hello,
I recently got a Android Head Unit for my Citroen C4 2012 and it's a MTCD_MX.
I have some issues with date/time always resetting to 01-01-2012 00:00 after turning off the car and waiting a few minutes.
If I start car the within e.g. a minute or so both date and time are intact and correct, but if I wait more than minute to start the car, it reset to 01-01-2012 00:00...
Also I've tried to change the date and time settings in system settings by turning off the automatic date and time and automatic time zone.
But it makes no difference. I should say that if I keep the automatic settings as ON, the Head unit will retrieve time and date a lot quicker from the wifi-network in my car...
Also on another note I'm not able to save any radio stations, they are also being reset to default, and same above, if I start the car within a minute or so they are intact...
Is this something anyone can relate to and perhaps have suggestions on how fix this...?
I got a firmware update from the buyer but as many others here I'm not seeing it being applied.
I put the two firmware files on a sd card and the Head restarts by applying the update, but all dates and version numbers are the as before the update.
Perhaps I need to change the of the two files... Anyways any help regarding issues with date/time and radio stations are very much appreciated.
Here's my version info:
MTCD_MX_V1.71_1
Jul 19 2016 13:12:07
Android Version:
5.1.1
Kernel-Version:
3.0.10+
[email protected] #82
Fri Aug 19 20:4318 CST 2016
Version
rk3188-userdebug 22082016.13:25:35
Thanks
/Mattias
Hello,
From what I can tell, you have a problem with the wire connection. There is an always on wire and a wire that is working only when contact on. Check the connection plug. Better go to a specialized service.
Good luck!
Hi Kufu,
many thanks for the info.
My guess is that perhaps the two connectors from the main cable is in the wrong place in the head unit (see image below with number 1 and 2).
Perhaps I should try and switch places with these two connectors, what do you think?
Are there any chance of me short circuiting the head unit by doing this?
Below is a picture of the backend of the head unit with two connectors marked 1 and 2.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Also there are no wheelkeys available in the settings menu but some of them work anyways, perhaps this could be related to the same issue?
Besides the two connectors from the main cable, there aren't a lot of cables I can connect wrong...
Many thanks.
Hello,
DO NOT switch those two connectors as you shown in the picture. One connector is for power supply, illumination, etc. and the other one is for the speakers. You should have a diagram on the unit. Again, DO NOT try to switch those two connector, you CAN damage the unit. One connector is power input, the other one is speaker output.
As I said before, on the POWER connector, there are 2 cables with (+) from the battery. One that is always on, the other only when contact is on. Sometimes those two wires must be switched in the connector. If you do not know how to identify them, go to a specialist. Is not big deal but if done wrong you can damage the unit.
Best Regards,
Kufu
kufu said:
Hello,
DO NOT switch those two connectors as you shown in the picture. One connector is for power supply, illumination, etc. and the other one is for the speakers. You should have a diagram on the unit. Again, DO NOT try to switch those two connector, you CAN damage the unit. One connector is power input, the other one is speaker output.
As I said before, on the POWER connector, there are 2 cables with (+) from the battery. One that is always on, the other only when contact is on. Sometimes those two wires must be switched in the connector. If you do not know how to identify them, go to a specialist. Is not big deal but if done wrong you can damage the unit.
Best Regards,
Kufu
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Kufu
I've asked the seller about the "always on power", if this could be the issue.
The head unit should be for my make and model, which is Citroen C4 2012, it feels a bit strange to switch the wires in the connector.
I really do not think I should have to do this...
I'll keep you posted about the development.
mddsd said:
Thanks Kufu
I've asked the seller about the "always on power", if this could be the issue.
The head unit should be for my make and model, which is Citroen C4 2012, it feels a bit strange to switch the wires in the connector.
I really do not think I should have to do this...
I'll keep you posted about the development.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I have the same exact problem, according to picture I have the same unit as yours. The only difference is the car model mine is Peugeot 508 2012.
I have been in contact with my local dealer since the first day about this. They've replaced the unit, replaced CANBUS, replaced connections so far nothing. Yest he erday, my dealer replace the unit and the canbus,. Same again, does not save time or the radio presets. Now I have another issue, I lost the front parking sensors as well.
I wanted to flash the ROM with one of the custom ROMs but in my case, it's not an option because it's an in dash without panel. There is no way to get in or control recovery menu.
Did you find any solution?
Thanks
metinb said:
Hi,
I have the same exact problem, according to picture I have the same unit as yours. The only difference is the car model mine is Peugeot 508 2012.
I have been in contact with my local dealer since the first day about this. They've replaced the unit, replaced CANBUS, replaced connections so far nothing. Yest he erday, my dealer replace the unit and the canbus,. Same again, does not save time or the radio presets. Now I have another issue, I lost the front parking sensors as well.
I wanted to flash the ROM with one of the custom ROMs but in my case, it's not an option because it's an in dash without panel. There is no way to get in or control recovery menu.
Did you find any solution?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
according to the company I purchased the unit from, the solution according to them is to connect a second power connector that gives the unit low power and this should keep date/time and the saved radio stations...
I'm not buying this since the unit is sold as 100% supported by my make and model and all other connectors are 100% compatible. My own solution to the date/time issue was to use a 3G USB dongle that was fast enough to connect to the Internet and the date/time settings are set to get date/time from the network. This now works great since the unit has working Internet before bootup...
But the unit is not without issues, it seems that the manufacturer Witson (in my case) have left a few software issues that really need to be corrected. So I've sent a few emails to the manufacturer (with the permission of the official reseller). I'm waiting to hear back from Witson.
mddsd said:
Hi,
according to the company I purchased the unit from, the solution according to them is to connect a second power connector that gives the unit low power and this should keep date/time and the saved radio stations...
I'm not buying this since the unit is sold as 100% supported by my make and model and all other connectors are 100% compatible. My own solution to the date/time issue was to use a 3G USB dongle that was fast enough to connect to the Internet and the date/time settings are set to get date/time from the network. This now works great since the unit has working Internet before bootup...
But the unit is not without issues, it seems that the manufacturer Witson (in my case) have left a few software issues that really need to be corrected. So I've sent a few emails to the manufacturer (with the permission of the official reseller). I'm waiting to hear back from Witson.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Finally, I sorted the loosing radio preset issue. It turns out there are two power cables on the car's original connector. Both of them are alive when the main switch is off. However, one of them cuts off when car goes into economy mode. That' was the one android head units was connected to. All I need to do is to switch the power cable on the supplied connector. which came with the head unit. Now, I do not loose any radio presets and GPS stays connected - No waiting time to connect after each boot. .
Hope this would be the same case for your make.
However I still have issues with the CanBus decoder.
So far, I tried two.
1) Bagoo (PSA) > all parking sensors are working. buttons on dashboard are well configured but cannot say the same for SW. Cannot answer the phone, and all right side buttons are operating to switch between open apps or change source). There is no door open warning and On dashboard monochrome screen radio displays as off so there is no feedback from CanBUS to car.
2) Simple (PSA 408) > Only rear parking sensors are working. all most all dashboard buttons does the same operation and it's not possible to turn off the radio. On the other hand displays if door(s) is open, can see the radio status on dashboard monochrome screen but only source type. Does not display any info about playing radio station or track number. It's also possible to configure Car configuration and memorized speeds for cruise control.
I decided to keep Bagoo because did not want to loose front parking sensors and more comfortable with all dashboard buttons. But it still annoys me I have to answer the phone only from screen or phone itself.
Which canbus are you using?
Thanks
Metin
metinb said:
Hi,
Finally, I sorted the loosing radio preset issue. It turns out there are two power cables on the car's original connector. Both of them are alive when the main switch is off. However, one of them cuts off when car goes into economy mode. That' was the one android head units was connected to. All I need to do is to switch the power cable on the supplied connector. which came with the head unit. Now, I do not loose any radio presets and GPS stays connected - No waiting time to connect after each boot. .
Hope this would be the same case for your make.
However I still have issues with the CanBus decoder.
So far, I tried two.
1) Bagoo (PSA) > all parking sensors are working. buttons on dashboard are well configured but cannot say the same for SW. Cannot answer the phone, and all right side buttons are operating to switch between open apps or change source). There is no door open warning and On dashboard monochrome screen radio displays as off so there is no feedback from CanBUS to car.
2) Simple (PSA 408) > Only rear parking sensors are working. all most all dashboard buttons does the same operation and it's not possible to turn off the radio. On the other hand displays if door(s) is open, can see the radio status on dashboard monochrome screen but only source type. Does not display any info about playing radio station or track number. It's also possible to configure Car configuration and memorized speeds for cruise control.
I decided to keep Bagoo because did not want to loose front parking sensors and more comfortable with all dashboard buttons. But it still annoys me I have to answer the phone only from screen or phone itself.
Which canbus are you using?
Thanks
Metin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's good news
Not being able to save the radio stations are annoying.
The GPS takes a while to get a position so if that will speed things up as well, that's great.
I'm bit confused as to which cables I need to switch?
Are they on the connectors that came with the head unit, if so which ones?
I currently using PSA Bagoo, I've tried quite a few different Canbus settings but this is the best one I could find, although it's far from complete and working...
A handful of buttons are working, although all buttons for the climate control are working, it's just that the onscreen information shows the wrong temperature, it's off by 4 degrees Celsius (both on left and right side). And there is no warning or information regarding open doors etc.
mddsd said:
That's good news
Not being able to save the radio stations are annoying.
The GPS takes a while to get a position so if that will speed things up as well, that's great.
I'm bit confused as to which cables I need to switch?
Are they on the connectors that came with the head unit, if so which ones?
I currently using PSA Bagoo, I've tried quite a few different Canbus settings but this is the best one I could find, although it's far from complete and working...
A handful of buttons are working, although all buttons for the climate control are working, it's just that the onscreen information shows the wrong temperature, it's off by 4 degrees Celsius (both on left and right side). And there is no warning or information regarding open doors etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, you need to do the switch power cable on the connector came with unit. (on big black side connected to car's original).
1) With a tester you need to find out the second power source on the original car's connector.
a) First turn on the switch to make sure the car is not in the economy mode then switch off and pull out the key.
b) With the tester you need to find the location of the power cables. (you should have two)
2) Determine which of the power cable goes to unit. > Only one of the power is going to unit through big black connector. The other power cable goes to empty leg.
3) disconnected big black connector.
4) On the big black connector (came with the unit) switch the power to the place where the other power comes in.
metinb said:
Yes, you need to do the switch power cable on the connector came with unit. (on big black side connected to car's original).
1) With a tester you need to find out the second power source on the original car's connector.
a) First turn on the switch to make sure the car is not in the economy mode then switch off and pull out the key.
b) With the tester you need to find the location of the power cables. (you should have two)
2) Determine which of the power cable goes to unit. > Only one of the power is going to unit through big black connector. The other power cable goes to empty leg.
3) disconnected big black connector.
4) On the big black connector (came with the unit) switch the power to the place where the other power comes in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, I really appreciate the help
So basically it's the wrong power that's connected to the unit and I just need to switch cables?
mddsd said:
Thank you, I really appreciate the help
So basically it's the wrong power that's connected to the unit and I just need to switch cables?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Happy to help.
Yes, that was it!
Hi there,
found that topic by accident as I have same issued with radio stations / time.
Short question: According to what I found on the web, there are two pins (11 and 12), that give 12v power to radio. Am I right that I need to switch from Pin 12 to 11 on the car radio adapter to get time/radio stations beeing saved working?
BR
Christian
Hello,
I've got MTCE unit (PX3) that I'm trying to install into Toyota truck. I've had another unit in previously and it had a reversing camera that was activated when the reverse was engaged by a dedicated wire in a harness. I've connected my camera to Video-In connector (H-5 on the attached harness). I can see video fine if I run AVID application, so this is working. What is not working is automatic engagement when I put the car in the reverse.
I can't seems to find a dedicated reverse signal. I understand that it may detect reverse through CanBus and I've connected included CanBus decoder to the unit, however it still doesn't work.
Am I missing something and what would the recommended troubleshooting suggestions?
Hi,
You are doing it wrong. You should not connect the video signal to Video IN of the unit. This way - the picture will show only when you launch the AVIN application. You should connect it to the CAMERA or REVERSE labeled plug. What is the G plug for ? Is it for a reverse camera or Car DVR ?
You can power up the camera (+12V and GND) from the white reverse light.
Thanks for the reply, however I can't sadly see any REVERSE or CAMERA labeled connectors on my unit. Plug G has microphone cable and that is it (see attached). Plug H has also a connector labeled DR-V and main connector has something labeled CCD-IN. I've tried plugging my camera to these connectors and sadly none of them seems to show camera feed when the reverse is engaged. Any other ideas on how I can get camera to work?
SuperPuper2K said:
Thanks for the reply, however I can't sadly see any REVERSE or CAMERA labeled connectors on my unit. Plug G has microphone cable and that is it (see attached). Plug H has also a connector labeled DR-V and main connector has something labeled CCD-IN. I've tried plugging my camera to these connectors and sadly none of them seems to show camera feed when the reverse is engaged. Any other ideas on how I can get camera to work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you bought it, was it advertised as having this capability? If so, I'd try to get a refund. Mine (and most others that I've seen) that have reverse functionality have a dedicated video in line that's labeled as such.
See K 5 and 6.
Hazard15301 said:
When you bought it, was it advertised as having this capability? If so, I'd try to get a refund. Mine (and most others that I've seen) that have reverse functionality have a dedicated video in line that's labeled as such.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the unit has reversing camera as an option and sadly the seller is less then helpful in resolving this issue. Having looked on the forums I can see that even when the camera is not connected the head unit should switch to black screen when reverse is engaged. In my case it doesn't do that. Does it mean that something is not working with CAN bus decoder? I've looked through factory settings and tried all options available for my car manufacturer and sadly they didn't make any difference.
Is there a way to test CAN bus decoder to see if it is working at all or not?
I have a reversing camera problem albeit a different one, that's been worse today. Sometimes after I finish reversing the camera image stays on the screen, frozen. I don't know if something's wrong with the reverse detection input or the camera video signal. I've had this with other units of the same model (KSP) or at least they were also MTCD PX5. My thought is to play with the resistances to the MCU. For now if I reboot it's back to normal.
SuperPuper2K said:
Am I missing something and what would the recommended troubleshooting suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your reverse camera should go to the main power connector 5th pin(CAM-IN) and reverse trigger line should go to 6th pin(CAM-LINE).
Ideally your main power connector should have yellow video in connector which connects ground and 5th pin.
smnrock said:
Your reverse camera should go to the main power connector 5th pin(CAM-IN) and reverse trigger line should go to 6th pin(CAM-LINE).
Ideally your main power connector should have yellow video in connector which connects ground and 5th pin.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You've just made my day. This was exactly the solution to my issue. The wires were connected to some strange connector, however after I've rewired it to my camera everything started working just fine.
Thanks a lot for your help.
hello
I have exact same issue, with wireless camera connector , have yellow connector to ccd in and nothing changes maybe somebody could draw scheme how to connect to head unit , have same connector.
I still trying to make working Factory setting "Switch to front camera for XX seconds after reverse gear" (translated from my language) on my head unit with a simple RCA/CCTV camera.
Now i have hooked (hoping in fast working solution) the camera video out to AV-IN HU connector and after reverse gear for 5 seconds (thats my amount fo time selected on factory settings) i get the classical no video exclamation mark, so my attempt is wrong.
Thinking how solve the situation the other iadea i had is hookin the camera video-out to the reserved DVR 6 pin connector of my HU, but i dont know how it work and what are the pin-outs.
I think, hoping for sure, 2 of them are Cam +12V and GND, 2 are Video (+) and Video (-) and the other 2 i presume are ACC 12V+ and GND or Data (+) and Data (-).
Someone with DVR Cam on HU can confirm and can draw a little schematic with the pin-out and can confirm in if idea of using the factory settings "Switch to front camera for XX seconds after reverse gear" can work right?
Thanks in advance!
You should not connect to video out, that's for an additional screen. You need to have something like camera in
Verstuurd vanaf mijn Z2 Pro met Tapatalk
hans.vinkers said:
You should not connect to video out, that's for an additional screen. You need to have something like camera in
Verstuurd vanaf mijn Z2 Pro met Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is that Dasaita HU doesnt have a dedicated front camera input, so im trying to circumvent this
See my post in this thread;
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...development/parking-camera-mod-t3663956/page6
Not the pinout diagram you asked for but a simple circuit you can build for cheap to get what you want by plugging in both your front and rear cameras into your one reverse camera input.
homer.ali said:
See my post in this thread;
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...development/parking-camera-mod-t3663956/page6
Not the pinout diagram you asked for but a simple circuit you can build for cheap to get what you want by plugging in both your front and rear cameras into your one reverse camera input.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your suggestion, a good idea! But there is a problem: im totally noob on realizing circuits! i have some skills in soldering and no more.
Do you want to draw a ready to solder circuit for me? are you using standard or smd components? What type of relay you have used?
EDIT:
Today i received a message from Dasaita support pointing me to a video box auto-switcher, i think it work in similar mode of your. What you think about that?
Link:
CAR Cameras Front and Rear camera Image Switch Control Box View Parking Camera System Visable parking intelligent control box
Dasaita: F-cam and F-cam power available somewhere?
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread...
iRcKenny said:
The problem is that Dasaita HU doesnt have a dedicated front camera input, so im trying to circumvent this
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I also own a Dasaita unit, and want to integrate a front view camera.
From some posts in this thread that was previously mentioned here (Front parking camera mod), it seems that some MTCD units (KDL?) have indeed pins for the front camera available at the back of the headunit, even if the wire harness don't have the corresponding cables for them.
After migrating to Android Pie some days ago, I activated the system menu to show the front camera and selected CVBS for the DVR, all this with a camera connected to the Aux In yellow input (I know, this will not work, it was just a test). But to my surprise, now I don't see the DVR App anymore (but I see now another app called F-cam). The interesting thing is that through this app, I'm now able to see my (stock) reverse camera whenever I want (even when I'm not in reverse). I thought that this camera was only powered on while in reverse (but apparently is not). As expected, when I switch to the front cam icon in the app, nothing is shown (only the warning icon), since this app expects the front camera to be connected to a specific video input not present in my harness.
Now to my question: Did somebody find out if the Dasaita PX5 Android units have this two pins (F-cam, 12V for F-cam) available in the back connectors (even if not available in the wire harness)?
(Soldering the proposed mods is definitely beyond my capacity - neither the internal nor external one; thanks anyway)
Hi, I'm looking for pinouts of RCA out of Dasaita units.
Can someone send a picture here?
Thanks
*******Edit: I was able to resolve most of the issues I've been experiencing with my Android Unit. *******
Incorrect Time- I needed to update my firmware, as suggested by users in the forum. The seller was able to send me an updated version at the time.
SWC- My resolution mentioned down below. I may change it back to CAN key and see if the CANBUS connection issue I had was the real culprit.
Random Power cycling- User error. I didn't realize I didn't plug the power cable completely into the unit.
A/C Display- I have @brettf to thank for this. I initially switched cables like he mentioned below, but found they didn't work THE FIRST TIME I did this, so I switched the cables back to their original [incorrect] positions. The second time around, ie. yesterday, I decided to try it again, but this time, I took into account my CANBUS settings. I changed the CANBUS controls to the last ACCORD_7(Chan........) setting and it finally worked for my system. So, now I understand what most users have been talking about in regards to the temperature only being in Celsius. If there's a fix for this that I may have missed, I'd highly appreciate it.
GPS signal- Lol unintentional user error this time, without realizing I even made a mistake. My unit wasn't labeled with which SMA connector was which for the GPS antenna or Bluetooth antenna, so I had accidentally switched them around during my initial installation. I decided to actually take a look at the diagram on AliBaba's seller page and lo and behold, they were indeed switched around. Previously, it would take over 5 minutes for a signal to be fixed and there was no guarantee it would be stable even on a clear day, but after the switch, the GPS signal is strong and fixes immediately to a signal now.
Bluetooth - Even though I'm not an audiophile, the music played from A2DP sounds even better following the aforementioned sma switch around. Tbh, I'm not tech savvy enough to understand how either the GPS or bluetooth have been working at all after all this time since my initial installation, but it works like it's supposed to now.
Mic- I ordered another external mic, so whenever it comes in, I'll try to update and see if there are any improvements with the quality, as I've realized my old mic sounded "distant" before when it was connected to my iSimple device.
Initial issue mentioned below:
Hello. I recently purchased this Seicane unit:
[Alibaba (**dot**) com/product/62132856562/10-1-Inch-Android-9-0.html?tracelog=null
I've been having the usual issues that I kind of anticipated with these Chinese head units *(ie. time was not set correctly when I initially installed it but I was able to fix it with an update, steering wheel controls no longer work(fixed), climate settings I press on the unit do not display on the screen but the A/C still works (fixed), just to name a few examples). But one problem I didn't anticipate was, my unit continuously reboots/powers off after I turn on the car and/or the screen may not come on unless I turn the ignition on and off again (fixed). With that being said, the Bluetooth cuts in and out as well and microphone quality is subpar at best, even after using an external mic from a previous isimple unit used with my original navigation unit.
So far, I honestly like this Seicane unit and I don't have buyer's remorse, but these little annoyances are starting to add up. Is there anyway I can fix these issues, especially the annoying rebooting? Thank you.
I recorded what I'm talking about earlier after work today:
youtu (**dot**) be/VvQnOBJGmWM
Anything at all?
chewybits95 said:
Anything at all?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried returning it, or lodging a dispute with the reseller?
marchnz said:
Have you tried returning it, or lodging a dispute with the reseller?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't want to go that route yet until I troubleshoot it myself. Plus, shipping to China is expensive, so that'll be my last ditch solution if I'm not able to figure out these menial issues.
Others here have experienced these problems you should be able to find their threads. From what I've read before the rebooting was linked to the HU losing internet access but those were units with a SIM card port. Setting airplane mode helped when they had no SIM and/or were connected to the phone hotspot. But if there's a problem with a SIM in relocating the antennas was needed otherwise the unit needs repair.
For the HVAC display you need a CANbus decoder specific to your car. It's not unusual for a seller to not include it unless you told them you need it. You have to be very literal and specific with them. One guy received the wrong one and only fixed it by convincing another seller (Dasaita) to sell him one. In your case it worked before and no more after the update then you may need to try different settings in the CANbus menu. Did you get your update from Seicane? If not you should ask them for one.
nic2k said:
...
For the HVAC display you need a CANbus decoder specific to your car. It's not unusual for a seller to not include it unless you told them you need it. You have to be very literal and specific with them. One guy received the wrong one and only fixed it by convincing another seller (Dasaita) to sell him one. In your case it worked before and no more after the update then you may need to try different settings in the CANbus menu. Did you get your update from Seicane? If not you should ask them for one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think this is the case here. I have the same unit as OP.
Check this thread regarding the Climate Control display issue: https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...1-android-8-2003-accord-t3923783/post79786553
brettf said:
I don't think this is the case here. I have the same unit as OP.
Check this thread regarding the Climate Control display issue: https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...1-android-8-2003-accord-t3923783/post79786553
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How would I go about actually changing the wires around though? Do I just pull them out of the harness? Lol, I'm not an electrician, so I would prefer not to break the unit.
I may have figured out the rebooting issue: when I went back to finally check the back of the unit, I found the power cable with the blue harness wasn't completely connected to the unit. Whoops, lol!
I'll test it out whenever I drive my accord again and see if this definitely fixed the rebooting issue.
chewybits95 said:
How would I go about actually changing the wires around though? Do I just pull them out of the harness? Lol, I'm not an electrician, so I would prefer not to break the unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just pop them out of the connector. There's a little tab on the metal bit inside the connector. If you press it and pull the wire softly, it will pop out.
brettf said:
Just pop them out of the connector. There's a little tab on the metal bit inside the connector. If you press it and pull the wire softly, it will pop out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was able to pop them out like you mentioned, but no changes. Luckily the a/c still works, so I guess I'll just leave it as is for now... Thank you for the guidance.
Follow up- so I was able to diagnose and fix the majority of the issues I listed thanks to you guys.
In terms of the steering wheel controls, Seicane's engineers failed to switch the steering wheel control settings in the factory settings to "SWC keys" before shipping it out. I found this setting only after attempting to install a universal SWC remote myself, so now I was able to retain both my original controls and the newly installed remote, which is a nice addition now. If you guys ever have issues with the car's original SWC settings when installing your unit, check your settings by going to:
CAR (Driving, navigation some settings) -> Factory Settings (passcode 126) -> Other -> Steering wheel keys assign -> ***Switch to SWC Keys if it's set to Can key***
Note- I'm not sure if the settings will differ per android software, but my unit is Android 9.0
chewybits95 said:
I was able to pop them out like you mentioned, but no changes. Luckily the a/c still works, so I guess I'll just leave it as is for now... Thank you for the guidance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should also make sure your car profile is "116 Accord 7" under factory settings - canbus
chewybits95 said:
*******Edit: I was able to resolve most of the issues I've been experiencing with my Android Unit. *******
Incorrect Time- I needed to update my firmware, as suggested by users in the forum. The seller was able to send me an updated version at the time.
SWC- My resolution mentioned down below. I may change it back to CAN key and see if the CANBUS connection issue I had was the real culprit.
Random Power cycling- User error. I didn't realize I didn't plug the power cable completely into the unit.
A/C Display- I have @brettf to thank for this. I initially switched cables like he mentioned below, but found they didn't work THE FIRST TIME I did this, so I switched the cables back to their original [incorrect] positions. The second time around, ie. yesterday, I decided to try it again, but this time, I took into account my CANBUS settings. I changed the CANBUS controls to the last ACCORD_7(Chan........) setting and it finally worked for my system. So, now I understand what most users have been talking about in regards to the temperature only being in Celsius. If there's a fix for this that I may have missed, I'd highly appreciate it.
GPS signal- Lol unintentional user error this time, without realizing I even made a mistake. My unit wasn't labeled with which SMA connector was which for the GPS antenna or Bluetooth antenna, so I had accidentally switched them around during my initial installation. I decided to actually take a look at the diagram on AliBaba's seller page and lo and behold, they were indeed switched around. Previously, it would take over 5 minutes for a signal to be fixed and there was no guarantee it would be stable even on a clear day, but after the switch, the GPS signal is strong and fixes immediately to a signal now.
Bluetooth - Even though I'm not an audiophile, the music played from A2DP sounds even better following the aforementioned sma switch around. Tbh, I'm not tech savvy enough to understand how either the GPS or bluetooth have been working at all after all this time since my initial installation, but it works like it's supposed to now.
Mic- I ordered another external mic, so whenever it comes in, I'll try to update and see if there are any improvements with the quality, as I've realized my old mic sounded "distant" before when it was connected to my iSimple device.
Initial issue mentioned below:
Hello. I recently purchased this Seicane unit:
[Alibaba (**dot**) com/product/62132856562/10-1-Inch-Android-9-0.html?tracelog=null
I've been having the usual issues that I kind of anticipated with these Chinese head units *(ie. time was not set correctly when I initially installed it but I was able to fix it with an update, steering wheel controls no longer work(fixed), climate settings I press on the unit do not display on the screen but the A/C still works (fixed), just to name a few examples). But one problem I didn't anticipate was, my unit continuously reboots/powers off after I turn on the car and/or the screen may not come on unless I turn the ignition on and off again (fixed). With that being said, the Bluetooth cuts in and out as well and microphone quality is subpar at best, even after using an external mic from a previous isimple unit used with my original navigation unit.
So far, I honestly like this Seicane unit and I don't have buyer's remorse, but these little annoyances are starting to add up. Is there anyway I can fix these issues, especially the annoying rebooting? Thank you.
I recorded what I'm talking about earlier after work today:
youtu (**dot**) be/VvQnOBJGmWM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad I could help!
chewybits95 said:
Follow up- so I was able to diagnose and fix the majority of the issues I listed thanks to you guys.
In terms of the steering wheel controls, Seicane's engineers failed to switch the steering wheel control settings in the factory settings to "SWC keys" before shipping it out. I found this setting only after attempting to install a universal SWC remote myself, so now I was able to retain both my original controls and the newly installed remote, which is a nice addition now. If you guys ever have issues with the car's original SWC settings when installing your unit, check your settings by going to:
CAR (Driving, navigation some settings) -> Factory Settings (passcode 126) -> Other -> Steering wheel keys assign -> ***Switch to SWC Keys if it's set to Can key***
Note- I'm not sure if the settings will differ per android software, but my unit is Android 9.0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IF i switch to SWC Key, i cant assign the keys anymore
Solutions?
EGOiST1991 said:
IF i switch to SWC Key, i cant assign the keys anymore
Solutions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Switch it back to Can Key and see if it you assign the key configurations.
SWC worked before I figured out the two CANBUS wires needed to be switched around but I don't feel the need to test if this will work in my car, so see if that may help.
Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
CanBus works fine. Every Function works on the 78 Protokoll. Only the Steering Wheel buttons get a "double Input" but i only press once.
And if i switch to protokoll 46 the Steering Wheel Button works perfect but everything else from canbus does not work (Settings for the car)
chewybits95 said:
*******Edit: I was able to resolve most of the issues I've been experiencing with my Android Unit. *******
Incorrect Time- I needed to update my firmware, as suggested by users in the forum. The seller was able to send me an updated version at the time.
SWC- My resolution mentioned down below. I may change it back to CAN key and see if the CANBUS connection issue I had was the real culprit.
Random Power cycling- User error. I didn't realize I didn't plug the power cable completely into the unit.
A/C Display- I have @brettf to thank for this. I initially switched cables like he mentioned below, but found they didn't work THE FIRST TIME I did this, so I switched the cables back to their original [incorrect] positions. The second time around, ie. yesterday, I decided to try it again, but this time, I took into account my CANBUS settings. I changed the CANBUS controls to the last ACCORD_7(Chan........) setting and it finally worked for my system. So, now I understand what most users have been talking about in regards to the temperature only being in Celsius. If there's a fix for this that I may have missed, I'd highly appreciate it.
GPS signal- Lol unintentional user error this time, without realizing I even made a mistake. My unit wasn't labeled with which SMA connector was which for the GPS antenna or Bluetooth antenna, so I had accidentally switched them around during my initial installation. I decided to actually take a look at the diagram on AliBaba's seller page and lo and behold, they were indeed switched around. Previously, it would take over 5 minutes for a signal to be fixed and there was no guarantee it would be stable even on a clear day, but after the switch, the GPS signal is strong and fixes immediately to a signal now.
Bluetooth - Even though I'm not an audiophile, the music played from A2DP sounds even better following the aforementioned sma switch around. Tbh, I'm not tech savvy enough to understand how either the GPS or bluetooth have been working at all after all this time since my initial installation, but it works like it's supposed to now.
Mic- I ordered another external mic, so whenever it comes in, I'll try to update and see if there are any improvements with the quality, as I've realized my old mic sounded "distant" before when it was connected to my iSimple device.
Initial issue mentioned below:
Hello. I recently purchased this Seicane unit:
[Alibaba (**dot**) com/product/62132856562/10-1-Inch-Android-9-0.html?tracelog=null
I've been having the usual issues that I kind of anticipated with these Chinese head units *(ie. time was not set correctly when I initially installed it but I was able to fix it with an update, steering wheel controls no longer work(fixed), climate settings I press on the unit do not display on the screen but the A/C still works (fixed), just to name a few examples). But one problem I didn't anticipate was, my unit continuously reboots/powers off after I turn on the car and/or the screen may not come on unless I turn the ignition on and off again (fixed). With that being said, the Bluetooth cuts in and out as well and microphone quality is subpar at best, even after using an external mic from a previous isimple unit used with my original navigation unit.
So far, I honestly like this Seicane unit and I don't have buyer's remorse, but these little annoyances are starting to add up. Is there anyway I can fix these issues, especially the annoying rebooting? Thank you.
I recorded what I'm talking about earlier after work today:
youtu (**dot**) be/VvQnOBJGmWM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The chassis was touching bare wires for random **** I didn't have so it kept resetting. Took me an hour to figure it out. You don't need to spend money just get some tape and make sure all the wires are connected or covered
Ahardyg93 said:
The chassis was touching bare wires for random **** I didn't have so it kept resetting. Took me an hour to figure it out. You don't need to spend money just get some tape and make sure all the wires are connected or covered
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol 420 tho I was smoking too
hello friends, I was wondering if you can help me, my CANbus looks like its working and the steering wheel works too, however, the stereo reboots every 3-4 minutes... the thing is that if I connect something it gets frozen, and a couple of seconds it reboots, if I open an app it gets frozen, if I click on any button of the stereo it will work one or three times but then it gets frozen and reboots it again, I'm not able to listen to anything because the stereo reboots all the time many times... I tried with android 9 same error I updated to android 10 still the error, please can you help me with some ideas, I really believe it is a hardware issue and not software. regards
I had been using my unit for more than 6 months and everything was great, I got home from school during spring break and installed my rear view camera. Camera works fine, however, now there is no sound from anything. I uninstalled this unit and re-installed the original from the car and everything was fine all speaker worked as did volume and changing stations. Re-installed the Dasaita unit again no sound. I tested all the plug and play wires from plug to plug and there were no shorts and all wires passed a continuity test with my voltmeter. I tried undoing all the rear camera work that I did, this didn't change anything. I have factory reset the unit more time than I can count. I also installed the newest software and firmware updates (MTCE version: V3.45 and MAX6 Version : PX6 HA2_rk3399_9.0_ota(20200320)).
There is no sound from the radio, from Apple Car Play, not even sound from the side unit volume buttons.
My car is a 2008 Honda civic LX, and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I am currently out of ideas.
Thank you,
Austin
Same exact thing happened to me.
Are you using the RCA outputs into an amp, or the speaker-level outputs via the 20pin connector on the back of the head unit? Have your CanBus settings in the Factory Settings changed at all?
20pin connector. I had to install a new motherboard that I got from Daisata due to my wifi not working on the previous board they sent me. Now I have no wifi and no audio with this board. I tried all the CanBus settings that match my Jeep, but no audio. The steering wheel controls do work, so it seems like I have the right CanBus selected.
When all audio goes, including button beeps all you can say is it's dead Jim. How dead might make the difference between sending it back or fixing it. Of course make sure it's not on mute. You could always start by contacting your seller for warranty. Next connect an amplified speaker to the RCA line out, if you get sound that means the amplifier IC is not working and it's a fairly easy fix. Unless you had other issues with audio before it's likely bad solder joints on the amplifier pins. You could re-heat the pins with an iron but it would be better to remove the old solder and replace it with good 60/40 lead solder.
---------- Post added at 07:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:06 PM ----------
Took me a while to post the previous one and I just saw your new post. Is there another board that connects to the motherboard? Units with 2 boards have a MCU and a SoM. The USB comes from the SoM and goes to a hub on the MCU. The WiFi board is connected through USB, check if your USB ports work. The pins of the female SoM connector can get damaged, some people have fixed it with metal foil as mentioned in the warning on this thread.
BrokenDasaita said:
20pin connector. I had to install a new motherboard that I got from Daisata due to my wifi not working on the previous board they sent me. Now I have no wifi and no audio with this board. I tried all the CanBus settings that match my Jeep, but no audio. The steering wheel controls do work, so it seems like I have the right CanBus selected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In the CanBus settings in the Factory Settings, there is a selection "With Amplifier/Without Amplifier" and as far as I can see, this selects which outputs you are using (ie speaker-level outputs on the 20 pin connector, or line-level outputs via the RCA connectors). It also does some other things likes make parts of the DSP unavailable, but try flipping this selection and see if you get sound.
I think that refers to whether you have the built in amplifier that comes with some Jeep models or not. Unfortunately, I tried both options and neither work.
Were you able to get this resolved?
I have the same problem with my Honda Civic 2012 LX.
I have the same problem.
I bougth a new head unit. Everything works exept the sound.
But the System Sounds and the radio also work. I tried different can settings also without can.