*******Edit: I was able to resolve most of the issues I've been experiencing with my Android Unit. *******
Incorrect Time- I needed to update my firmware, as suggested by users in the forum. The seller was able to send me an updated version at the time.
SWC- My resolution mentioned down below. I may change it back to CAN key and see if the CANBUS connection issue I had was the real culprit.
Random Power cycling- User error. I didn't realize I didn't plug the power cable completely into the unit.
A/C Display- I have @brettf to thank for this. I initially switched cables like he mentioned below, but found they didn't work THE FIRST TIME I did this, so I switched the cables back to their original [incorrect] positions. The second time around, ie. yesterday, I decided to try it again, but this time, I took into account my CANBUS settings. I changed the CANBUS controls to the last ACCORD_7(Chan........) setting and it finally worked for my system. So, now I understand what most users have been talking about in regards to the temperature only being in Celsius. If there's a fix for this that I may have missed, I'd highly appreciate it.
GPS signal- Lol unintentional user error this time, without realizing I even made a mistake. My unit wasn't labeled with which SMA connector was which for the GPS antenna or Bluetooth antenna, so I had accidentally switched them around during my initial installation. I decided to actually take a look at the diagram on AliBaba's seller page and lo and behold, they were indeed switched around. Previously, it would take over 5 minutes for a signal to be fixed and there was no guarantee it would be stable even on a clear day, but after the switch, the GPS signal is strong and fixes immediately to a signal now.
Bluetooth - Even though I'm not an audiophile, the music played from A2DP sounds even better following the aforementioned sma switch around. Tbh, I'm not tech savvy enough to understand how either the GPS or bluetooth have been working at all after all this time since my initial installation, but it works like it's supposed to now.
Mic- I ordered another external mic, so whenever it comes in, I'll try to update and see if there are any improvements with the quality, as I've realized my old mic sounded "distant" before when it was connected to my iSimple device.
Initial issue mentioned below:
Hello. I recently purchased this Seicane unit:
[Alibaba (**dot**) com/product/62132856562/10-1-Inch-Android-9-0.html?tracelog=null
I've been having the usual issues that I kind of anticipated with these Chinese head units *(ie. time was not set correctly when I initially installed it but I was able to fix it with an update, steering wheel controls no longer work(fixed), climate settings I press on the unit do not display on the screen but the A/C still works (fixed), just to name a few examples). But one problem I didn't anticipate was, my unit continuously reboots/powers off after I turn on the car and/or the screen may not come on unless I turn the ignition on and off again (fixed). With that being said, the Bluetooth cuts in and out as well and microphone quality is subpar at best, even after using an external mic from a previous isimple unit used with my original navigation unit.
So far, I honestly like this Seicane unit and I don't have buyer's remorse, but these little annoyances are starting to add up. Is there anyway I can fix these issues, especially the annoying rebooting? Thank you.
I recorded what I'm talking about earlier after work today:
youtu (**dot**) be/VvQnOBJGmWM
Anything at all?
chewybits95 said:
Anything at all?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried returning it, or lodging a dispute with the reseller?
marchnz said:
Have you tried returning it, or lodging a dispute with the reseller?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't want to go that route yet until I troubleshoot it myself. Plus, shipping to China is expensive, so that'll be my last ditch solution if I'm not able to figure out these menial issues.
Others here have experienced these problems you should be able to find their threads. From what I've read before the rebooting was linked to the HU losing internet access but those were units with a SIM card port. Setting airplane mode helped when they had no SIM and/or were connected to the phone hotspot. But if there's a problem with a SIM in relocating the antennas was needed otherwise the unit needs repair.
For the HVAC display you need a CANbus decoder specific to your car. It's not unusual for a seller to not include it unless you told them you need it. You have to be very literal and specific with them. One guy received the wrong one and only fixed it by convincing another seller (Dasaita) to sell him one. In your case it worked before and no more after the update then you may need to try different settings in the CANbus menu. Did you get your update from Seicane? If not you should ask them for one.
nic2k said:
...
For the HVAC display you need a CANbus decoder specific to your car. It's not unusual for a seller to not include it unless you told them you need it. You have to be very literal and specific with them. One guy received the wrong one and only fixed it by convincing another seller (Dasaita) to sell him one. In your case it worked before and no more after the update then you may need to try different settings in the CANbus menu. Did you get your update from Seicane? If not you should ask them for one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think this is the case here. I have the same unit as OP.
Check this thread regarding the Climate Control display issue: https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...1-android-8-2003-accord-t3923783/post79786553
brettf said:
I don't think this is the case here. I have the same unit as OP.
Check this thread regarding the Climate Control display issue: https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...1-android-8-2003-accord-t3923783/post79786553
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How would I go about actually changing the wires around though? Do I just pull them out of the harness? Lol, I'm not an electrician, so I would prefer not to break the unit.
I may have figured out the rebooting issue: when I went back to finally check the back of the unit, I found the power cable with the blue harness wasn't completely connected to the unit. Whoops, lol!
I'll test it out whenever I drive my accord again and see if this definitely fixed the rebooting issue.
chewybits95 said:
How would I go about actually changing the wires around though? Do I just pull them out of the harness? Lol, I'm not an electrician, so I would prefer not to break the unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just pop them out of the connector. There's a little tab on the metal bit inside the connector. If you press it and pull the wire softly, it will pop out.
brettf said:
Just pop them out of the connector. There's a little tab on the metal bit inside the connector. If you press it and pull the wire softly, it will pop out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was able to pop them out like you mentioned, but no changes. Luckily the a/c still works, so I guess I'll just leave it as is for now... Thank you for the guidance.
Follow up- so I was able to diagnose and fix the majority of the issues I listed thanks to you guys.
In terms of the steering wheel controls, Seicane's engineers failed to switch the steering wheel control settings in the factory settings to "SWC keys" before shipping it out. I found this setting only after attempting to install a universal SWC remote myself, so now I was able to retain both my original controls and the newly installed remote, which is a nice addition now. If you guys ever have issues with the car's original SWC settings when installing your unit, check your settings by going to:
CAR (Driving, navigation some settings) -> Factory Settings (passcode 126) -> Other -> Steering wheel keys assign -> ***Switch to SWC Keys if it's set to Can key***
Note- I'm not sure if the settings will differ per android software, but my unit is Android 9.0
chewybits95 said:
I was able to pop them out like you mentioned, but no changes. Luckily the a/c still works, so I guess I'll just leave it as is for now... Thank you for the guidance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should also make sure your car profile is "116 Accord 7" under factory settings - canbus
chewybits95 said:
*******Edit: I was able to resolve most of the issues I've been experiencing with my Android Unit. *******
Incorrect Time- I needed to update my firmware, as suggested by users in the forum. The seller was able to send me an updated version at the time.
SWC- My resolution mentioned down below. I may change it back to CAN key and see if the CANBUS connection issue I had was the real culprit.
Random Power cycling- User error. I didn't realize I didn't plug the power cable completely into the unit.
A/C Display- I have @brettf to thank for this. I initially switched cables like he mentioned below, but found they didn't work THE FIRST TIME I did this, so I switched the cables back to their original [incorrect] positions. The second time around, ie. yesterday, I decided to try it again, but this time, I took into account my CANBUS settings. I changed the CANBUS controls to the last ACCORD_7(Chan........) setting and it finally worked for my system. So, now I understand what most users have been talking about in regards to the temperature only being in Celsius. If there's a fix for this that I may have missed, I'd highly appreciate it.
GPS signal- Lol unintentional user error this time, without realizing I even made a mistake. My unit wasn't labeled with which SMA connector was which for the GPS antenna or Bluetooth antenna, so I had accidentally switched them around during my initial installation. I decided to actually take a look at the diagram on AliBaba's seller page and lo and behold, they were indeed switched around. Previously, it would take over 5 minutes for a signal to be fixed and there was no guarantee it would be stable even on a clear day, but after the switch, the GPS signal is strong and fixes immediately to a signal now.
Bluetooth - Even though I'm not an audiophile, the music played from A2DP sounds even better following the aforementioned sma switch around. Tbh, I'm not tech savvy enough to understand how either the GPS or bluetooth have been working at all after all this time since my initial installation, but it works like it's supposed to now.
Mic- I ordered another external mic, so whenever it comes in, I'll try to update and see if there are any improvements with the quality, as I've realized my old mic sounded "distant" before when it was connected to my iSimple device.
Initial issue mentioned below:
Hello. I recently purchased this Seicane unit:
[Alibaba (**dot**) com/product/62132856562/10-1-Inch-Android-9-0.html?tracelog=null
I've been having the usual issues that I kind of anticipated with these Chinese head units *(ie. time was not set correctly when I initially installed it but I was able to fix it with an update, steering wheel controls no longer work(fixed), climate settings I press on the unit do not display on the screen but the A/C still works (fixed), just to name a few examples). But one problem I didn't anticipate was, my unit continuously reboots/powers off after I turn on the car and/or the screen may not come on unless I turn the ignition on and off again (fixed). With that being said, the Bluetooth cuts in and out as well and microphone quality is subpar at best, even after using an external mic from a previous isimple unit used with my original navigation unit.
So far, I honestly like this Seicane unit and I don't have buyer's remorse, but these little annoyances are starting to add up. Is there anyway I can fix these issues, especially the annoying rebooting? Thank you.
I recorded what I'm talking about earlier after work today:
youtu (**dot**) be/VvQnOBJGmWM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad I could help!
chewybits95 said:
Follow up- so I was able to diagnose and fix the majority of the issues I listed thanks to you guys.
In terms of the steering wheel controls, Seicane's engineers failed to switch the steering wheel control settings in the factory settings to "SWC keys" before shipping it out. I found this setting only after attempting to install a universal SWC remote myself, so now I was able to retain both my original controls and the newly installed remote, which is a nice addition now. If you guys ever have issues with the car's original SWC settings when installing your unit, check your settings by going to:
CAR (Driving, navigation some settings) -> Factory Settings (passcode 126) -> Other -> Steering wheel keys assign -> ***Switch to SWC Keys if it's set to Can key***
Note- I'm not sure if the settings will differ per android software, but my unit is Android 9.0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IF i switch to SWC Key, i cant assign the keys anymore
Solutions?
EGOiST1991 said:
IF i switch to SWC Key, i cant assign the keys anymore
Solutions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Switch it back to Can Key and see if it you assign the key configurations.
SWC worked before I figured out the two CANBUS wires needed to be switched around but I don't feel the need to test if this will work in my car, so see if that may help.
Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
CanBus works fine. Every Function works on the 78 Protokoll. Only the Steering Wheel buttons get a "double Input" but i only press once.
And if i switch to protokoll 46 the Steering Wheel Button works perfect but everything else from canbus does not work (Settings for the car)
chewybits95 said:
*******Edit: I was able to resolve most of the issues I've been experiencing with my Android Unit. *******
Incorrect Time- I needed to update my firmware, as suggested by users in the forum. The seller was able to send me an updated version at the time.
SWC- My resolution mentioned down below. I may change it back to CAN key and see if the CANBUS connection issue I had was the real culprit.
Random Power cycling- User error. I didn't realize I didn't plug the power cable completely into the unit.
A/C Display- I have @brettf to thank for this. I initially switched cables like he mentioned below, but found they didn't work THE FIRST TIME I did this, so I switched the cables back to their original [incorrect] positions. The second time around, ie. yesterday, I decided to try it again, but this time, I took into account my CANBUS settings. I changed the CANBUS controls to the last ACCORD_7(Chan........) setting and it finally worked for my system. So, now I understand what most users have been talking about in regards to the temperature only being in Celsius. If there's a fix for this that I may have missed, I'd highly appreciate it.
GPS signal- Lol unintentional user error this time, without realizing I even made a mistake. My unit wasn't labeled with which SMA connector was which for the GPS antenna or Bluetooth antenna, so I had accidentally switched them around during my initial installation. I decided to actually take a look at the diagram on AliBaba's seller page and lo and behold, they were indeed switched around. Previously, it would take over 5 minutes for a signal to be fixed and there was no guarantee it would be stable even on a clear day, but after the switch, the GPS signal is strong and fixes immediately to a signal now.
Bluetooth - Even though I'm not an audiophile, the music played from A2DP sounds even better following the aforementioned sma switch around. Tbh, I'm not tech savvy enough to understand how either the GPS or bluetooth have been working at all after all this time since my initial installation, but it works like it's supposed to now.
Mic- I ordered another external mic, so whenever it comes in, I'll try to update and see if there are any improvements with the quality, as I've realized my old mic sounded "distant" before when it was connected to my iSimple device.
Initial issue mentioned below:
Hello. I recently purchased this Seicane unit:
[Alibaba (**dot**) com/product/62132856562/10-1-Inch-Android-9-0.html?tracelog=null
I've been having the usual issues that I kind of anticipated with these Chinese head units *(ie. time was not set correctly when I initially installed it but I was able to fix it with an update, steering wheel controls no longer work(fixed), climate settings I press on the unit do not display on the screen but the A/C still works (fixed), just to name a few examples). But one problem I didn't anticipate was, my unit continuously reboots/powers off after I turn on the car and/or the screen may not come on unless I turn the ignition on and off again (fixed). With that being said, the Bluetooth cuts in and out as well and microphone quality is subpar at best, even after using an external mic from a previous isimple unit used with my original navigation unit.
So far, I honestly like this Seicane unit and I don't have buyer's remorse, but these little annoyances are starting to add up. Is there anyway I can fix these issues, especially the annoying rebooting? Thank you.
I recorded what I'm talking about earlier after work today:
youtu (**dot**) be/VvQnOBJGmWM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The chassis was touching bare wires for random **** I didn't have so it kept resetting. Took me an hour to figure it out. You don't need to spend money just get some tape and make sure all the wires are connected or covered
Ahardyg93 said:
The chassis was touching bare wires for random **** I didn't have so it kept resetting. Took me an hour to figure it out. You don't need to spend money just get some tape and make sure all the wires are connected or covered
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol 420 tho I was smoking too
hello friends, I was wondering if you can help me, my CANbus looks like its working and the steering wheel works too, however, the stereo reboots every 3-4 minutes... the thing is that if I connect something it gets frozen, and a couple of seconds it reboots, if I open an app it gets frozen, if I click on any button of the stereo it will work one or three times but then it gets frozen and reboots it again, I'm not able to listen to anything because the stereo reboots all the time many times... I tried with android 9 same error I updated to android 10 still the error, please can you help me with some ideas, I really believe it is a hardware issue and not software. regards
Related
Hello,
I recently got a Android Head Unit for my Citroen C4 2012 and it's a MTCD_MX.
I have some issues with date/time always resetting to 01-01-2012 00:00 after turning off the car and waiting a few minutes.
If I start car the within e.g. a minute or so both date and time are intact and correct, but if I wait more than minute to start the car, it reset to 01-01-2012 00:00...
Also I've tried to change the date and time settings in system settings by turning off the automatic date and time and automatic time zone.
But it makes no difference. I should say that if I keep the automatic settings as ON, the Head unit will retrieve time and date a lot quicker from the wifi-network in my car...
Also on another note I'm not able to save any radio stations, they are also being reset to default, and same above, if I start the car within a minute or so they are intact...
Is this something anyone can relate to and perhaps have suggestions on how fix this...?
I got a firmware update from the buyer but as many others here I'm not seeing it being applied.
I put the two firmware files on a sd card and the Head restarts by applying the update, but all dates and version numbers are the as before the update.
Perhaps I need to change the of the two files... Anyways any help regarding issues with date/time and radio stations are very much appreciated.
Here's my version info:
MTCD_MX_V1.71_1
Jul 19 2016 13:12:07
Android Version:
5.1.1
Kernel-Version:
3.0.10+
[email protected] #82
Fri Aug 19 20:4318 CST 2016
Version
rk3188-userdebug 22082016.13:25:35
Thanks
/Mattias
Hello,
From what I can tell, you have a problem with the wire connection. There is an always on wire and a wire that is working only when contact on. Check the connection plug. Better go to a specialized service.
Good luck!
Hi Kufu,
many thanks for the info.
My guess is that perhaps the two connectors from the main cable is in the wrong place in the head unit (see image below with number 1 and 2).
Perhaps I should try and switch places with these two connectors, what do you think?
Are there any chance of me short circuiting the head unit by doing this?
Below is a picture of the backend of the head unit with two connectors marked 1 and 2.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Also there are no wheelkeys available in the settings menu but some of them work anyways, perhaps this could be related to the same issue?
Besides the two connectors from the main cable, there aren't a lot of cables I can connect wrong...
Many thanks.
Hello,
DO NOT switch those two connectors as you shown in the picture. One connector is for power supply, illumination, etc. and the other one is for the speakers. You should have a diagram on the unit. Again, DO NOT try to switch those two connector, you CAN damage the unit. One connector is power input, the other one is speaker output.
As I said before, on the POWER connector, there are 2 cables with (+) from the battery. One that is always on, the other only when contact is on. Sometimes those two wires must be switched in the connector. If you do not know how to identify them, go to a specialist. Is not big deal but if done wrong you can damage the unit.
Best Regards,
Kufu
kufu said:
Hello,
DO NOT switch those two connectors as you shown in the picture. One connector is for power supply, illumination, etc. and the other one is for the speakers. You should have a diagram on the unit. Again, DO NOT try to switch those two connector, you CAN damage the unit. One connector is power input, the other one is speaker output.
As I said before, on the POWER connector, there are 2 cables with (+) from the battery. One that is always on, the other only when contact is on. Sometimes those two wires must be switched in the connector. If you do not know how to identify them, go to a specialist. Is not big deal but if done wrong you can damage the unit.
Best Regards,
Kufu
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Kufu
I've asked the seller about the "always on power", if this could be the issue.
The head unit should be for my make and model, which is Citroen C4 2012, it feels a bit strange to switch the wires in the connector.
I really do not think I should have to do this...
I'll keep you posted about the development.
mddsd said:
Thanks Kufu
I've asked the seller about the "always on power", if this could be the issue.
The head unit should be for my make and model, which is Citroen C4 2012, it feels a bit strange to switch the wires in the connector.
I really do not think I should have to do this...
I'll keep you posted about the development.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I have the same exact problem, according to picture I have the same unit as yours. The only difference is the car model mine is Peugeot 508 2012.
I have been in contact with my local dealer since the first day about this. They've replaced the unit, replaced CANBUS, replaced connections so far nothing. Yest he erday, my dealer replace the unit and the canbus,. Same again, does not save time or the radio presets. Now I have another issue, I lost the front parking sensors as well.
I wanted to flash the ROM with one of the custom ROMs but in my case, it's not an option because it's an in dash without panel. There is no way to get in or control recovery menu.
Did you find any solution?
Thanks
metinb said:
Hi,
I have the same exact problem, according to picture I have the same unit as yours. The only difference is the car model mine is Peugeot 508 2012.
I have been in contact with my local dealer since the first day about this. They've replaced the unit, replaced CANBUS, replaced connections so far nothing. Yest he erday, my dealer replace the unit and the canbus,. Same again, does not save time or the radio presets. Now I have another issue, I lost the front parking sensors as well.
I wanted to flash the ROM with one of the custom ROMs but in my case, it's not an option because it's an in dash without panel. There is no way to get in or control recovery menu.
Did you find any solution?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
according to the company I purchased the unit from, the solution according to them is to connect a second power connector that gives the unit low power and this should keep date/time and the saved radio stations...
I'm not buying this since the unit is sold as 100% supported by my make and model and all other connectors are 100% compatible. My own solution to the date/time issue was to use a 3G USB dongle that was fast enough to connect to the Internet and the date/time settings are set to get date/time from the network. This now works great since the unit has working Internet before bootup...
But the unit is not without issues, it seems that the manufacturer Witson (in my case) have left a few software issues that really need to be corrected. So I've sent a few emails to the manufacturer (with the permission of the official reseller). I'm waiting to hear back from Witson.
mddsd said:
Hi,
according to the company I purchased the unit from, the solution according to them is to connect a second power connector that gives the unit low power and this should keep date/time and the saved radio stations...
I'm not buying this since the unit is sold as 100% supported by my make and model and all other connectors are 100% compatible. My own solution to the date/time issue was to use a 3G USB dongle that was fast enough to connect to the Internet and the date/time settings are set to get date/time from the network. This now works great since the unit has working Internet before bootup...
But the unit is not without issues, it seems that the manufacturer Witson (in my case) have left a few software issues that really need to be corrected. So I've sent a few emails to the manufacturer (with the permission of the official reseller). I'm waiting to hear back from Witson.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Finally, I sorted the loosing radio preset issue. It turns out there are two power cables on the car's original connector. Both of them are alive when the main switch is off. However, one of them cuts off when car goes into economy mode. That' was the one android head units was connected to. All I need to do is to switch the power cable on the supplied connector. which came with the head unit. Now, I do not loose any radio presets and GPS stays connected - No waiting time to connect after each boot. .
Hope this would be the same case for your make.
However I still have issues with the CanBus decoder.
So far, I tried two.
1) Bagoo (PSA) > all parking sensors are working. buttons on dashboard are well configured but cannot say the same for SW. Cannot answer the phone, and all right side buttons are operating to switch between open apps or change source). There is no door open warning and On dashboard monochrome screen radio displays as off so there is no feedback from CanBUS to car.
2) Simple (PSA 408) > Only rear parking sensors are working. all most all dashboard buttons does the same operation and it's not possible to turn off the radio. On the other hand displays if door(s) is open, can see the radio status on dashboard monochrome screen but only source type. Does not display any info about playing radio station or track number. It's also possible to configure Car configuration and memorized speeds for cruise control.
I decided to keep Bagoo because did not want to loose front parking sensors and more comfortable with all dashboard buttons. But it still annoys me I have to answer the phone only from screen or phone itself.
Which canbus are you using?
Thanks
Metin
metinb said:
Hi,
Finally, I sorted the loosing radio preset issue. It turns out there are two power cables on the car's original connector. Both of them are alive when the main switch is off. However, one of them cuts off when car goes into economy mode. That' was the one android head units was connected to. All I need to do is to switch the power cable on the supplied connector. which came with the head unit. Now, I do not loose any radio presets and GPS stays connected - No waiting time to connect after each boot. .
Hope this would be the same case for your make.
However I still have issues with the CanBus decoder.
So far, I tried two.
1) Bagoo (PSA) > all parking sensors are working. buttons on dashboard are well configured but cannot say the same for SW. Cannot answer the phone, and all right side buttons are operating to switch between open apps or change source). There is no door open warning and On dashboard monochrome screen radio displays as off so there is no feedback from CanBUS to car.
2) Simple (PSA 408) > Only rear parking sensors are working. all most all dashboard buttons does the same operation and it's not possible to turn off the radio. On the other hand displays if door(s) is open, can see the radio status on dashboard monochrome screen but only source type. Does not display any info about playing radio station or track number. It's also possible to configure Car configuration and memorized speeds for cruise control.
I decided to keep Bagoo because did not want to loose front parking sensors and more comfortable with all dashboard buttons. But it still annoys me I have to answer the phone only from screen or phone itself.
Which canbus are you using?
Thanks
Metin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's good news
Not being able to save the radio stations are annoying.
The GPS takes a while to get a position so if that will speed things up as well, that's great.
I'm bit confused as to which cables I need to switch?
Are they on the connectors that came with the head unit, if so which ones?
I currently using PSA Bagoo, I've tried quite a few different Canbus settings but this is the best one I could find, although it's far from complete and working...
A handful of buttons are working, although all buttons for the climate control are working, it's just that the onscreen information shows the wrong temperature, it's off by 4 degrees Celsius (both on left and right side). And there is no warning or information regarding open doors etc.
mddsd said:
That's good news
Not being able to save the radio stations are annoying.
The GPS takes a while to get a position so if that will speed things up as well, that's great.
I'm bit confused as to which cables I need to switch?
Are they on the connectors that came with the head unit, if so which ones?
I currently using PSA Bagoo, I've tried quite a few different Canbus settings but this is the best one I could find, although it's far from complete and working...
A handful of buttons are working, although all buttons for the climate control are working, it's just that the onscreen information shows the wrong temperature, it's off by 4 degrees Celsius (both on left and right side). And there is no warning or information regarding open doors etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, you need to do the switch power cable on the connector came with unit. (on big black side connected to car's original).
1) With a tester you need to find out the second power source on the original car's connector.
a) First turn on the switch to make sure the car is not in the economy mode then switch off and pull out the key.
b) With the tester you need to find the location of the power cables. (you should have two)
2) Determine which of the power cable goes to unit. > Only one of the power is going to unit through big black connector. The other power cable goes to empty leg.
3) disconnected big black connector.
4) On the big black connector (came with the unit) switch the power to the place where the other power comes in.
metinb said:
Yes, you need to do the switch power cable on the connector came with unit. (on big black side connected to car's original).
1) With a tester you need to find out the second power source on the original car's connector.
a) First turn on the switch to make sure the car is not in the economy mode then switch off and pull out the key.
b) With the tester you need to find the location of the power cables. (you should have two)
2) Determine which of the power cable goes to unit. > Only one of the power is going to unit through big black connector. The other power cable goes to empty leg.
3) disconnected big black connector.
4) On the big black connector (came with the unit) switch the power to the place where the other power comes in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, I really appreciate the help
So basically it's the wrong power that's connected to the unit and I just need to switch cables?
mddsd said:
Thank you, I really appreciate the help
So basically it's the wrong power that's connected to the unit and I just need to switch cables?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Happy to help.
Yes, that was it!
Hi there,
found that topic by accident as I have same issued with radio stations / time.
Short question: According to what I found on the web, there are two pins (11 and 12), that give 12v power to radio. Am I right that I need to switch from Pin 12 to 11 on the car radio adapter to get time/radio stations beeing saved working?
BR
Christian
Hi,
I just installed few days ago a PX5 MTCE_MX_V2.92_1 in my Peugeot 508 with JBL Sound system.
It went all almost ok (except the seller didn't understand I had to activate "With Amplifier" in the Factory settings, or I had absolutely no sound).
I have one problem : There is sound when I put radio, Ad2p music, usb stick music, phone call... but absolutely no sound when I try to read a CD or a DVD with the DVD app that came installed on the system.
I tried the MyTunerRadio app, and also no sound.
Do the stock apps (radio, bluetooth, usb stick) have something special to output audio differently, or am I missing something?
Does anyone also know any other app on the play store that can read the CD/DVD from inside the Unit?
Thanks
Hi again,
I received a new Canbus today from the seller, I don't understand why... and since we have trouble communicating, I'm asking you guys.
The one I got with the head unit, with for Peugeot 407 (I have a 508), the Android is starting, and all is working "more or less" ok.
The one I received today has two plugs, on each side of the decoder. And when I plug one side, well, Android is not turning on... which seems logical to me.
Any idea? do I need a new cable to connect the new decoder?
Thanks
Any Idea on this? I got a carplay dongle but also no sound...
do u solve it? i have 508 with JBL also..installed android device..no sound at all
Same here
Hi, same for me on my 508 with JBL amplifier.
Bluetooth Ad2p audio, radio and USB music works nice.
But no audio from CD, DVD, and the worse: from Bluetooth calls.
I am checking with the reseller and if can't help I'll ask for a refund. Or I hope you guys will get luckier and get an answer
Edit: I am under MTCE_MX_V2.91.
A weird thing is that if i want sound from basic apps, I first need to play music from USB, pause it, then I can hear the sound from the other app suddenly (but still not from CD, DVD, YouTube app). As the original poster wrote, there must be something with the way some apps output sound. I really hope it's easy to fix.
Solution
Guys, I have the solution!
Hopefully, this works for you too.
After a week of fighting about that with my seller (Autostereo), he finally provided me with a solution (I had opened dispute with agreed half refund so it motivated him I believe, to help me more...).
So, I updated my PX5 (manufacturer: MX / Witson - octacore, 4gb RAM) to a very last version "mx4_PX5_8.0(20181122)". The seller also sent me an update for the MCU but I didn't deploy it because it was working already with the PX5 upgrade. I give you here both files. Again, it was enough for me to just do the PX5 update; it all started to work suddenly (among other improvements), so I am more than satisfied.
At the time I am writing this post, there are 6 days left for the files: we.tl/t-A8ysf9ggAp EDIT: changed the link on Dec. 27, 2018
If needed, I can later upload them somewhere else (GDrive or something).
Can you send to me. I have the same problem. I would be very gratefull for your help.
@Perle123 check on the link I provided
?.Did you unzip them after download, or put them straight on to usb. How did you install.
Perle123 said:
.Did you unzip them after download, or put them straight on to usb. How did you install.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I could answer you "search on the forum" because that's what I had to do the first time, I had no clue how to update But it's easy:
1. Format a USB key to FAT32 file system (quick format is enough).
2. Unpack the mx4_PX5_8.0(20181122).zip
3. From the mx4_PX5_8.0(20181122).zip, copy the file update.zip (do not unpack it!) to the USB key.
4. Plug the USB key into your car unit, Android should recognize it straight and allow you to upgrade.
5. Click OK to upgrade, it will do the job (5 minutes for me), restart with updated PX5 (and sound working in all applications, DVD, CD, YouTube, DI.FM, etc.).
Note 1 : it asked me if I wanted to wipe data or not; I chose no.
Note 2: I recommend you do it with engine running in case the upgrade takes longer, to avoid safe consumption energy cut during the upgrade.
Note 3: I didn't have to reconfigure anything, not even CANBUS. I let it to amplifier mode "with amplifier".
Additional note for @ifoul: I have the same CANBUS as you exactly. I mean the original one, not the one the seller sent you again. And I think you should remain with the original one, it is configured for JBL. It is originally for Peugeot 408 (not 407 as you wrote), a model mostly sold only in China and that has similar commands as the 508; that's why it works with the 508.
Hope this helps!
Hi All,
Sorry for the long delay, turns out I didn't get thread notifications on my email.. so I forgot a bit about this thread.
It's funny because I also received two days ago (after long battling with seller DADAgps ? ) a new DMCU 3.00 MX and firmware from 20181122, and It's working correctly since two days.
I first did the DMCU upgrade, was not working, and then firmware upgrade ,and working.
So I can confirm it's definitely the Firmware.
the CarPlay dongle is finally useful (main reason why I bought the Android Head Unit).
If needed I can host the files online, just ask.
@slovinco, Yes, I stayed with the original Canbus, the other doesn't even start the android.
Also I have another Canbus on the way, they were sending it last week, before knowing about the new firmware.
ifoul said:
Hi All,
Sorry for the long delay, turns out I didn't get thread notifications on my email.. so I forgot a bit about this thread.
It's funny because I also received two days ago (after long battling with seller DADAgps ) a new DMCU 3.00 MX and firmware from 20181122, and It's working correctly since two days.
I first did the DMCU upgrade, was not working, and then firmware upgrade ,and working.
So I can confirm it's definitely the Firmware.
the CarPlay dongle is finally useful (main reason why I bought the Android Head Unit).
If needed I can host the files online, just ask.
@slovinco, Yes, I stayed with the original Canbus, the other doesn't even start the android.
Also I have another Canbus on the way, they were sending it last week, before knowing about the new firmware.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perfect then Probably the manufacturer sent a FW upgrade to all sellers, seeing that a few os us have problems. Still, we must not be a lot with JBL and Android unit
Now finally we can fully enjoy this delicious unit.
Yes, not that many, for sure ?
From which country are you?
Now I need to install the camera that I received... that will be fun to put all the cables from the trunk to the Android!
ifoul said:
Yes, not that many, for sure
From which country are you?
Now I need to install the camera that I received... that will be fun to put all the cables from the trunk to the Android!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
According to the photo of your radio app and the radio station names, maybe from the same country as you
I also installed rear camera for backup. It was not funny at all, especially taking down the plastic parts and putting them back. My hands still hurt. And also the wireless version is not very stable so I ordered cables to make it better. That means I'll have again to take down the plastic parts.
FYI, I bought this: aliexpress.com/item/For-Peugeot-301-308-408-508-2013-2014-Citroen-C5-C4-Car-CCD-Night-Vision-4LED/32598855986.html
But that's also another topic When I finish all this (I will also install headrest monitors), I will publish some articles on some Peugeot blog, because I quite enjoy doing this all!
Well, let's keep in English, in case it's useful for other people.
I ordered a similar one from amazon : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B079NX178V/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
because I found that the one I got for free from the aliexpress seller was hanging a bit too low. ( https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wat...ml?spm=2114.10010108.1000023.9.6681277dXMa7AN )
Before you make your blog posts, do you maybe have some photos you took during install, to see how to remove the parts?
Small question regarding the camera.
Which cables did you take for the alimentation?
That was hard unboxing the trunk, but good thing I found all those PDFs from Peugeot https://www.forum-peugeot.com/Forum/threads/schema-pour-démontage-garniture-hayon-sw.34967/
Will answer you in private message as this is off topic
Thank you for your help. It worked for me too. The only thing that dosnt work is the front parking sensor and not all the steering wheel buttons. Can you assign the buttons in your meny, becourse i can not
sent to me also
Perle123 said:
Thank you for your help. It worked for me too. The only thing that dosnt work is the front parking sensor and not all the steering wheel buttons. Can you assign the buttons in your meny, becourse i can not
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have those issues, sorry for you. Make sure you have at least the proper canbus set up.
One thing though, the Wheel key study application does not work for me either. So even if all buttons work ok for me, I am not able to change their settings.
---------- Post added at 12:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:26 PM ----------
scoponoc said:
sent to me also
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean "send" maybe? In that case, how about a little "please" with that?
Anyway, read again my previous posts...
Hi
I have purchased an Android HeadUnit for my Renault Megane 2 (2007) from AliExpress. Every function works except the steering wheel controls. The unit has the UIS7862 CPU @1.8Ghz, 6gb Ram and 128gb storage. I have installed the CanBox correctly and tried many CanBox settings in factory menu, but I cannot get the control app to enter learning mode. Does anyone have any idea? Maybe the built in key map application is at fault (com.syu.steer).
Did you find a solution to your problem yet?
I'm stuck at the exact same scenario, same unit. The support over at AliExpress mention to me to select "XP" for canbox settings. However, my canbus module is by Raise, hence I should be using the "RZC"
Also, my reverse cam doesnt work too.
Pls share your findings. Thank you!
I got the steering wheel keys to work with a custom controller made by an engineer in my country specifically for my car and my HeadUnit. The controller is connected directly to the wheel controls and the "key" wire on my HeadUnit. I had to disassembly the steering wheel base and route the cable around the original one. Now I can map every key to an action in the Key Learning app. For the backup camera, because I used a wireless kit, I couldn't use the "back" camera wire to trigger the HeadUnit to switch to it. The kit came with a receiver which only had power wires and a yellow RCA cable. I wired the receiver's power cables to the ACC power so that the receiver only powers on when the engine is running and I managed to map a button on the steering wheel to switch to the RCA input. Now when I want to use back up camera, I just need to press a button to see the image. The camera's transmitter is wired to the license plate bulb and I managed to fit it in the rear bumper.
This wasn't a "plug and play" experience that the Chinese seller promised, but overall I can say I am pretty happy with the end result. The audio quality is wayyy better than the stock HeadUnit. I didn't know that my stock speakers could get that loud and have so much bass. The DSP chip does it's job wonderfully. Also the radio reception is better than with the stock unit. The Android HeadUnit is fast and snappy. Apps open almost instantly and those 6gb of ram really help. I could compare the overall user experience with my OnePlus 7 phone. The unit also cold boots very quickly. The wifi reception is pretty poor. The unit shows 75% signal when my phone is in the car. It doesn't bother me because I put a Sim card in the unit and the mobile reception is as good as on my phone.
andrei-2200 said:
I got the steering wheel keys to work with a custom controller made by an engineer in my country specifically for my car and my HeadUnit. The controller is connected directly to the wheel controls and the "key" wire on my HeadUnit. I had to disassembly the steering wheel base and route the cable around the original one. Now I can map every key to an action in the Key Learning app. For the backup camera, because I used a wireless kit, I couldn't use the "back" camera wire to trigger the HeadUnit to switch to it. The kit came with a receiver which only had power wires and a yellow RCA cable. I wired the receiver's power cables to the ACC power so that the receiver only powers on when the engine is running and I managed to map a button on the steering wheel to switch to the RCA input. Now when I want to use back up camera, I just need to press a button to see the image. The camera's transmitter is wired to the license plate bulb and I managed to fit it in the rear bumper.
This wasn't a "plug and play" experience that the Chinese seller promised, but overall I can say I am pretty happy with the end result. The audio quality is wayyy better than the stock HeadUnit. I didn't know that my stock speakers could get that loud and have so much bass. The DSP chip does it's job wonderfully. Also the radio reception is better than with the stock unit. The Android HeadUnit is fast and snappy. Apps open almost instantly and those 6gb of ram really help. I could compare the overall user experience with my OnePlus 7 phone. The unit also cold boots very quickly. The wifi reception is pretty poor. The unit shows 75% signal when my phone is in the car. It doesn't bother me because I put a Sim card in the unit and the mobile reception is as good as on my phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
MasK said:
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You connected the reverse wire?
Maybe this triggers the camera view of it doesn't work via the canbus.
Well, it does work via canbus, just doesnt switch to cam input automatically. Perhaps its some software settings.
MasK said:
Well, it does work via canbus, just doesnt switch to cam input automatically. Perhaps its some software settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all canbus provide the reverse signal. So maybe you have to provide the reverse signal on the separate input.
TorstenH said:
Not all canbus provide the reverse signal. So maybe you have to provide the reverse signal on the separate input.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I feel that the HU knows when I am referring (CANBUS might be working here), because the 12V turns on when Im in reverse. The only issue is the HU doesnt switch to the cam automatically. Looks to me like a SW issue. Still awaiting reply from manufacturer.
Also, I realised my backward/forward buttons are swapped. Why is it I can't re-learn them?
It may not be the same for the Navifly, but on my unit, G5 must get the proper voltage to "detect" the car has been put in reverse. I'm re-using my factory rear view camera and it's a 6.5V camera. However, I had to up the voltage to 8.6V so that G5 go that voltage...then the rear image showed up. I reused the car wiring and that's why I had to do this.
Check the voltage that G5 is getting. With a canbus module, I believe there is a wire from the canbus going to G5. If no voltage, make sure the pins are in properly.
FYI, if you are using a canbus and the steering wheel controls go through the canbus, then I believe that you cannot remap the keys.
The 12 V from the reverse wire are coming from your car (or in some cases from the canbox if the information gets transmitted from car to the box via canbus).
My suggestion is:
There is a separate reverse connection (usually a brown wire) on the head unit which triggers the radio to open the app which shows the image of the reverse cam.
You could even connect ACC or B+ to the reverse connection for testing purposes.
mastrv said:
It may not be the same for the Navifly, but on my unit, G5 must get the proper voltage to "detect" the car has been put in reverse. I'm re-using my factory rear view camera and it's a 6.5V camera. However, I had to up the voltage to 8.6V so that G5 go that voltage...then the rear image showed up. I reused the car wiring and that's why I had to do this.
Check the voltage that G5 is getting. With a canbus module, I believe there is a wire from the canbus going to G5. If no voltage, make sure the pins are in properly.
FYI, if you are using a canbus and the steering wheel controls go through the canbus, then I believe that you cannot remap the keys.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Absolutely correct.
Thanks guys, but there is no other brown wire for this.
I have a discussion abt this on this thread too:
Medeke/Navifly 7862
Hi, Recently received above unit for my 2006 RS4. everything is great (much better then the M400 I had before) apart from the radio. It seemed to work for the first 2 days, then worked intermittently and now not at all. I have tried...
forum.xda-developers.com
My "cam12V" wire is from the HU and it turns on when I am in reverse. Does this mean that this signal might be coming from my canbus? If so, is there another input back to the HU to trigger the screen to display the video feed? Only other wires I see are AMP related
Give 12V to pin 2 and check if the app to display the image of the cam will start:
TorstenH said:
Give 12V to pin 2 and check if the app to display the image of the cam will start:
View attachment 5374441
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes! It took me a while to figure this out.. mainly because I'll have to cut the wire (wasn't very confident in that)
and also.. the wires at Pin2 didn't make sense! They were more like Battery12V. I did cut and tested that.
So.. it turns out its a pink wire at pin3!
I realized this as I looked at my old Dasaita wires from the canbus connector. Since canbus is a standard, they should be comparable. That reverse wire went into Pin3.
I'm really surprised that Mekede and Navifly has this pin layout printed in all their listings.. but it's just wrong.
Thanks alot for the help!
That means it works now? I think you had to cut the ACC wire according to the manual because the "ignition on" information is provided by the can box.
TorstenH said:
That means it works now? I think you had to cut the ACC wire according to the manual because the "ignition on" information is provided by the can box.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it works now. Check out the images. The Pin2 (red) is probably ACC or batt 12V as there was no power when cut. I then cut the wire opposite it (pin10) in case I was looking at the connector wrongly. That turned out to be the headlight sensor.
After tracing the wire and comparing to my old Daisata, it turns out Pin3 (pink) is the reverse IN.
Excellent. Thanks for the clarification.
That means it makes sense to get the wiring diagram from the old radio of the car and compare it with the description of the new head unit.
In my case I had to completely rewire the harness (just if someone is interested):
Junsun V1 MTK8259 - the adapter battle (Kia Ceed Jd) / OEM camera usage / reference thread
I bought the Junsun V1 head unit but my Kia Ceed JD had a OEM nav unit which isn't directly compatible to Junsun V1. So I re-wired the wiring harness based on the pins description of my original OEM navigation unit. I'm only modifying the wiring...
forum.xda-developers.com
The only thing that I could compare to (between old and new HUs) is the canbus connectors. Rest cannot be compared as they're all different.
Oh well..
Anyways, the current Mekede I have has Radio chip NX6686. My old Dasaita PX5 also has a NX6686. However, the radio reception is absolutely trash in the new one. I dont listen to radio that often (I can resort to streaming radio) but my dad takes the car occasionally and he's already complained about it
Your experience on the harness rewiring is pretty intense!
Update: Turns out my Antenna connector was a tad loose and I had to do a re-connect. The radio reception is all good now
MasK said:
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you found correct canbus settings and connections .. i cant find anything about you sharing them
Hi at all.
I have recently built in a CC3 device.
And I have some questions about hardware and software. Maybe someone can help.
1: why is it, that the screen for air-conditioning, temperature etc. spontaneously pops up and don't dissappear by itself?
2: why is there only beep sounds from the parking distance control and no car symbol with colored waves (green to red)
3: why can't I choose YouTube as music widget, as described in teyes installation videos
4: can I change the widgets at all? New functions like whether forecast or GPS status instead of radio stations
Thanks in advance.
Greets, Sebastian
Hi i have similar problems with a skoda superb 3 2017, i am trying to find a good canbus configuration. Now i can see all car settings, cannot see call log, microphone is low, no graphics and beeps from rear sensors, volum from drive wheel is reversed.
I have tried both with rzc canbus and hi world canbus.
I have installed the aditional mic still same,
If i install the sim i can used only for data,
Please advise if i have to update it or anything to make it better, so far i want to uninstall it and use oem.
Hi Sebytech, I didn't found any solution so far. I am in contact with the support from AU and waiting for an answer. And still waiting for my MOST adapter. Have no sound at all.
But my vol. button is working.
No sound? Can you show me a few pics with what you have? And the settings of the canbus? I personally purchased another adapter and stereo sound inhave fromthe one purchased from au. My volume works from steering wheel is just upside down. Not sure if i need to do mcu update
Sebytech said:
Hi i have similar problems with a skoda superb 3 2017, i am trying to find a good canbus configuration. Now i can see all car settings, cannot see call log, microphone is low, no graphics and beeps from rear sensors, volum from drive wheel is reversed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Volume reverse is a setting: Factory -> Reversal Volume.
Same for reversal previous-next. Factory -> Reversal previous next
And if you have a CC3, why don't you read and watch the instructions and instruction videos: https://cc3.teyes.ru/en/index.html
Sebytech said:
No sound? Can you show me a few pics with what you have? And the settings of the canbus? I personally purchased another adapter and stereo sound inhave fromthe one purchased from au. My volume works from steering wheel is just upside down. Not sure if i need to do mcu update
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have no sound, because I have a built in canton sound system and digital amplifier. My quadlock connector has therefore no cables to each respective speaker. The sound is transfered to the amplifier by lightwire. When I ordered the CC3 I didn't know much about this and there was no hint on the order page. Due to a German skoda superb forum, someone told me about the need of an MOST adapter. Teyes has such an adapter in their store. I still waiting for it.
What else I am wondering about, is that the pins in my quadlock adapter is no respectively not the same as in the adapter from Teyes and some pins go nowhere. So I think, some functions are missing from the beginning.
I had a little research but, this last pic looks like a power right ? the harness, everything is the same as i have except that plug, anything else related to the amp ?
surfer63 said:
Volume reverse is a setting: Factory -> Reversal Volume.
Same for reversal previous-next. Factory -> Reversal previous next
And if you have a CC3, why don't you read and watch the instructions and instruction videos: https://cc3.teyes.ru/en/index.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, i will check that, i have check everything that is on the website, instructions are minimal, not everything is plug and play, any idea how to download the latest software? i have the latest mcu firmware but it always says invalid serial it.
thank you
SchaafBaeh said:
I have no sound, because I have a built in canton sound system and digital amplifier. My quadlock connector has therefore no cables to each respective speaker. The sound is transfered to the amplifier by lightwire. When I ordered the CC3 I didn't know much about this and there was no hint on the order page. Due to a German skoda superb forum, someone told me about the need of an MOST adapter. Teyes has such an adapter in their store. I still waiting for it.
What else I am wondering about, is that the pins in my quadlock adapter is no respectively not the same as in the adapter from Teyes and some pins go nowhere. So I think, some functions are missing from the beginning.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
apologize, did you meant optical fiber?
Sebytech said:
apologize, did you meant optical fiber?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, sorry. Your right. I wasn't so sure about the coorect term to translate it from German to English.
Sebytech said:
I had a little research but, this last pic looks like a power right ? the harness, everything is the same as i have except that plug, anything else related to the amp ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, this plug is the optical fiber plug. For this I purchased the Teyes Most 25 adapter. Hope, it will soon arrive.
SchaafBaeh said:
No, this plug is the optical fiber plug. For this I purchased the Teyes Most 25 adapter. Hope, it will soon arrive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes i had a look on the web for some adapters..not really much about them.
Any idea about how to download latest software ?
Have you tested yours with phone calls ?
Sebytech said:
Yes i had a look on the web for some adapters..not really much about them.
Any idea about how to download latest software ?
Have you tested yours with phone calls ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My sim card and wlan are working fine. So I opened the app Futo and checked for new versions (automatic updater) . After download and installation I opened teyes and downloaded the latest versions of all other apps.
Because I have no sound so far, I could no test it with sound. But as I received a phone call (phone was connected via BT) the CC3 showed me all needed buttons know for accepting/cancelling and ending a call.
I think i have a old version on mine, cannot find FOTA.
Can't you download it from their website?
SchaafBaeh said:
Can't you download it from their website?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have spent the last few days to find all kinds of info in regards canbus, settings, mic settings, bluetooth settings, anything on their website is useless. either they have sold me a diff unit.. don`t know yet..took me a month to make it work..bad company
Sebytech said:
I have spent the last few days to find all kinds of info in regards canbus, settings, mic settings, bluetooth settings, anything on their website is useless. either they have sold me a diff unit.. don`t know yet..took me a month to make it work..bad company
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, ok. That's bad. And the support named Dan can't help you?
SchaafBaeh said:
Oh, ok. That's bad. And the support named Dan can't help you?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not sure, i do not know him and takes days for support to answer, i am not sure about this forum if anybody will help, but be aware about the following issue you might have with yours. Bluetooth connection will show phone but no dial list on dash, on the cc3 while on call the dial conversation stays on top..you need external mic, apparently will not use the oem one ..hopefully you will have better luck than me, i am almost there to go back to oem and just leave it...sim with lte its only for data only no phone calls. what is the point to have just data ? would have been nice to connect with the canbus and show on dash as cc3 and be able to make phone calls. Also why have a mic on the unit ? mic has to be close to u and well protected..
update me when you have setup.
Ok. I will. Have a nice day anyway.
Sebytech said:
Thank you, i will check that, i have check everything that is on the website, instructions are minimal, not everything is plug and play, any idea how to download the latest software? i have the latest mcu firmware but it always says invalid serial it.
thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Email Teyes directly and ask them for support. They have your data.
Only try via Dan if you purchased via Dan.
Hi, I have a Chinese android head unit, I've fitted it in my van, all good apart from the one thing I wanted...Android Auto. Allegedly it's come with Android Auto installed. My phone and cable work fine in my car, and Auto connect to Android Auto, but not on this Android head unit I've fitted. I naively thought I could plug my phone in and it automatically start up but nothing happens, everything else on the head unit, I've worked out, and is fine. It's probably a set up problem, I'm wondering about an APL file, but I just don't know what to do and the instructions that came with it are not much help, I would appreciate a point in the right direction pls
Scrapman326 said:
Hi, I have a Chinese android head unit, I've fitted it in my van, all good apart from the one thing I wanted...Android Auto. Allegedly it's come with Android Auto installed. My phone and cable work fine in my car, and Auto connect to Android Auto, but not on this Android head unit I've fitted. I naively thought I could plug my phone in and it automatically start up but nothing happens, everything else on the head unit, I've worked out, and is fine. It's probably a set up problem, I'm wondering about an APL file, but I just don't know what to do and the instructions that came with it are not much help, I would appreciate a point in the right direction pls
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I meant APK file, I've seen them but don't know what to do (if that is the issue)
Is it an FYT unit. Post Android system information including MCU version
@marchnz is right. Tell us what you have. There are a lot of different units.
Scrapman326 said:
I meant APK file, I've seen them but don't know what to do (if that is the issue)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It does not work automatically on these Chinese head utnits.
You first have to pair it to bluetooth.
Then you connect it via USB.
Then you start the z-link or carlink app, whatever it is called on your unit (and that is why we need to know what your unit is).
Then it should work.
surfer63 said:
@marchnz is right. Tell us what you have. There are a lot of different units.
It does not work automatically on these Chinese head utnits.
You first have to pair it to bluetooth.
Then you connect it via USB.
Then you start the z-link or carlink app, whatever it is called on your unit (and that is why we need to know what your unit is).
Then it should work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I’ll find the Android version and MCU (whatever that is), bare with me, thanks for the response, Bluetooth is paired, I can make calls via the head unit that way, and I connect via USB just as I do in my car, I haven’t seen a link for zlink or the android auto logo ?, all my phone does when I plug in is charge, there are two usb sockets on the back of the unit, 4 wire and five wire, my DAB aerial is plugged in the 4 wire and is working ok, my phone is in the five wire USB, I did swap them round , it made no difference, I’ll come back with MCU and Android version, thanks again, it’s a Brosmartek XRC-T3 06FuTe (that’s exactly what’s on the box) if that helps. I’ve found previously that purchases such as this come with very, very basic instructions, virtually zero.
If I search on your Brosmartek XRC-T3, the adds say you need to download the EasyConnect.apk. Did you do that?
surfer63 said:
@marchnz is right. Tell us what you have. There are a lot of different units.
It does not work automatically on these Chinese head utnits.
You first have to pair it to bluetooth.
Then you connect it via USB.
Then you start the z-link or carlink app, whatever it is called on your unit (and that is why we need to know what your unit is).
Then it should work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I got it sorted, I hot spotted the unit off my phone and updated it, then I thought about z-link that you mentioned and recalled seeing Tlink5 ... I went into settings and changed from Google maps to the mysterious Tlink5 and hey presto...Tlink5 is required for Carplay and Android Auto. Everything is good now, such a shame that it's not in the instructions, then again what little instructions there was , was no help. Thanks for all your help, it was the Z-link mention that just got me wondering. "Tlink5"... who would have thought it.