I had been using my unit for more than 6 months and everything was great, I got home from school during spring break and installed my rear view camera. Camera works fine, however, now there is no sound from anything. I uninstalled this unit and re-installed the original from the car and everything was fine all speaker worked as did volume and changing stations. Re-installed the Dasaita unit again no sound. I tested all the plug and play wires from plug to plug and there were no shorts and all wires passed a continuity test with my voltmeter. I tried undoing all the rear camera work that I did, this didn't change anything. I have factory reset the unit more time than I can count. I also installed the newest software and firmware updates (MTCE version: V3.45 and MAX6 Version : PX6 HA2_rk3399_9.0_ota(20200320)).
There is no sound from the radio, from Apple Car Play, not even sound from the side unit volume buttons.
My car is a 2008 Honda civic LX, and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I am currently out of ideas.
Thank you,
Austin
Same exact thing happened to me.
Are you using the RCA outputs into an amp, or the speaker-level outputs via the 20pin connector on the back of the head unit? Have your CanBus settings in the Factory Settings changed at all?
20pin connector. I had to install a new motherboard that I got from Daisata due to my wifi not working on the previous board they sent me. Now I have no wifi and no audio with this board. I tried all the CanBus settings that match my Jeep, but no audio. The steering wheel controls do work, so it seems like I have the right CanBus selected.
When all audio goes, including button beeps all you can say is it's dead Jim. How dead might make the difference between sending it back or fixing it. Of course make sure it's not on mute. You could always start by contacting your seller for warranty. Next connect an amplified speaker to the RCA line out, if you get sound that means the amplifier IC is not working and it's a fairly easy fix. Unless you had other issues with audio before it's likely bad solder joints on the amplifier pins. You could re-heat the pins with an iron but it would be better to remove the old solder and replace it with good 60/40 lead solder.
---------- Post added at 07:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:06 PM ----------
Took me a while to post the previous one and I just saw your new post. Is there another board that connects to the motherboard? Units with 2 boards have a MCU and a SoM. The USB comes from the SoM and goes to a hub on the MCU. The WiFi board is connected through USB, check if your USB ports work. The pins of the female SoM connector can get damaged, some people have fixed it with metal foil as mentioned in the warning on this thread.
BrokenDasaita said:
20pin connector. I had to install a new motherboard that I got from Daisata due to my wifi not working on the previous board they sent me. Now I have no wifi and no audio with this board. I tried all the CanBus settings that match my Jeep, but no audio. The steering wheel controls do work, so it seems like I have the right CanBus selected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In the CanBus settings in the Factory Settings, there is a selection "With Amplifier/Without Amplifier" and as far as I can see, this selects which outputs you are using (ie speaker-level outputs on the 20 pin connector, or line-level outputs via the RCA connectors). It also does some other things likes make parts of the DSP unavailable, but try flipping this selection and see if you get sound.
I think that refers to whether you have the built in amplifier that comes with some Jeep models or not. Unfortunately, I tried both options and neither work.
Were you able to get this resolved?
I have the same problem with my Honda Civic 2012 LX.
I have the same problem.
I bougth a new head unit. Everything works exept the sound.
But the System Sounds and the radio also work. I tried different can settings also without can.
Related
New to these Android units.
Does anybody here know of a way to increase the output levels from the RCA Pre-Amp Outs?
I am wondering if settings for this are in the MCU software, or in the Android side of the software. My Radio sounds great with this unit, but the Music Player app seems to have around 30, or so percent less audio volume. I have searched, but so far found very little about this issue. Any help will be much appreciated.
I ran into the same problem, so I've used a NVX LOC with independent gain controls for all 4 channels.
Thanks for your reply
Thanks, but I want to keep the factory Bose amp, because I have read in several places that the speakers in the car have a non-standard impedance that the amp is matched to. Besides that I want to keep all the wiring in the car stock so I can put everything back to stock later if wanted. There must be some way to increase the output in the units software somewhere, so I am hoping that a software guru will chime in here at some point and tell me something like: "oh, yeah, just change the values in the such and such file located in the sub folder of the System folder. I'm patient, so time will tell.
Doesn't these factory sound systems use proprietary connectors with high level inputs? I've never seen a factory amp with RCA inputs.
Proprietary Factory Audio Systems
Yes, in my case with the Infiniti Q45 it is is a proprietary system, but I used a Metra aftermarket connection adapter (Metra 70-7551) to tap the original wiring plugs that normally go into the back of the factory Bose head unit. The Metra adapter allowed me to make the connections without having to cut up the factory plugs. It included the 4 RCA plugs to tie into the original feed wiring going back to the amp in the trunk. Helped me keep everything nice and neat, and eliminated the need to run speaker wires, or make splices into the amp inputs. I also used a Metra 40-NI11 antenna adapter to convert the Nissan proprietary antenna lead to a standard antenna fitting to go into the new Android radio. I don't sell Metra stuff, but only mention it here because it helped me do a nice clean install of the new radio, and it gives me the option of going back to stock very easily.
TECHADDICT5610 said:
New to these Android units.
Does anybody here know of a way to increase the output levels from the RCA Pre-Amp Outs?
I am wondering if settings for this are in the MCU software, or in the Android side of the software. My Radio sounds great with this unit, but the Music Player app seems to have around 30, or so percent less audio volume. I have searched, but so far found very little about this issue. Any help will be much appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
isn't that the "input gain" settings, usually reachable via factory settings?
Hello,
I've got MTCE unit (PX3) that I'm trying to install into Toyota truck. I've had another unit in previously and it had a reversing camera that was activated when the reverse was engaged by a dedicated wire in a harness. I've connected my camera to Video-In connector (H-5 on the attached harness). I can see video fine if I run AVID application, so this is working. What is not working is automatic engagement when I put the car in the reverse.
I can't seems to find a dedicated reverse signal. I understand that it may detect reverse through CanBus and I've connected included CanBus decoder to the unit, however it still doesn't work.
Am I missing something and what would the recommended troubleshooting suggestions?
Hi,
You are doing it wrong. You should not connect the video signal to Video IN of the unit. This way - the picture will show only when you launch the AVIN application. You should connect it to the CAMERA or REVERSE labeled plug. What is the G plug for ? Is it for a reverse camera or Car DVR ?
You can power up the camera (+12V and GND) from the white reverse light.
Thanks for the reply, however I can't sadly see any REVERSE or CAMERA labeled connectors on my unit. Plug G has microphone cable and that is it (see attached). Plug H has also a connector labeled DR-V and main connector has something labeled CCD-IN. I've tried plugging my camera to these connectors and sadly none of them seems to show camera feed when the reverse is engaged. Any other ideas on how I can get camera to work?
SuperPuper2K said:
Thanks for the reply, however I can't sadly see any REVERSE or CAMERA labeled connectors on my unit. Plug G has microphone cable and that is it (see attached). Plug H has also a connector labeled DR-V and main connector has something labeled CCD-IN. I've tried plugging my camera to these connectors and sadly none of them seems to show camera feed when the reverse is engaged. Any other ideas on how I can get camera to work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you bought it, was it advertised as having this capability? If so, I'd try to get a refund. Mine (and most others that I've seen) that have reverse functionality have a dedicated video in line that's labeled as such.
See K 5 and 6.
Hazard15301 said:
When you bought it, was it advertised as having this capability? If so, I'd try to get a refund. Mine (and most others that I've seen) that have reverse functionality have a dedicated video in line that's labeled as such.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the unit has reversing camera as an option and sadly the seller is less then helpful in resolving this issue. Having looked on the forums I can see that even when the camera is not connected the head unit should switch to black screen when reverse is engaged. In my case it doesn't do that. Does it mean that something is not working with CAN bus decoder? I've looked through factory settings and tried all options available for my car manufacturer and sadly they didn't make any difference.
Is there a way to test CAN bus decoder to see if it is working at all or not?
I have a reversing camera problem albeit a different one, that's been worse today. Sometimes after I finish reversing the camera image stays on the screen, frozen. I don't know if something's wrong with the reverse detection input or the camera video signal. I've had this with other units of the same model (KSP) or at least they were also MTCD PX5. My thought is to play with the resistances to the MCU. For now if I reboot it's back to normal.
SuperPuper2K said:
Am I missing something and what would the recommended troubleshooting suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your reverse camera should go to the main power connector 5th pin(CAM-IN) and reverse trigger line should go to 6th pin(CAM-LINE).
Ideally your main power connector should have yellow video in connector which connects ground and 5th pin.
smnrock said:
Your reverse camera should go to the main power connector 5th pin(CAM-IN) and reverse trigger line should go to 6th pin(CAM-LINE).
Ideally your main power connector should have yellow video in connector which connects ground and 5th pin.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You've just made my day. This was exactly the solution to my issue. The wires were connected to some strange connector, however after I've rewired it to my camera everything started working just fine.
Thanks a lot for your help.
hello
I have exact same issue, with wireless camera connector , have yellow connector to ccd in and nothing changes maybe somebody could draw scheme how to connect to head unit , have same connector.
I just bought a Belsee PX5 Octo Core Android Head Unit for my 2016 Hyundai Veloster. It has a custom harness made for the car. It works great, except there is no sound. The backup camera works, the steering wheel controls work. Everything works....except sound. I am trying to work with Belsee via Email, but we all know how that goes. I am wondering if any of you fine people might have any suggestions that I can try.
I have gone into Factory Settings menu and changed the CANBUS to Hyundai &KIA, still no sound. The Veloster requires a signal over the CANBUS to turn the factory Amp on and produce sound.
Thanx in advance.
what did the reseller suggest when you contacted them for support? Was that to change CanBus settings?
Hi, i have the same problem after upgrading from px3... Did you resolve the problem?
I now have sound..had to swap to a harness with a CANBUS controller on it. But, the EQ does not work, the rear speakers are super low, and there is that electrical whine from the engine. But at least there is sound.
Hi I am new here but I also had the same issue with my Nissan qashqai and the Bose system. I have found that on my vehicle in the Belsee power harness that pin 1 was not present which is the 12v positive that feeds the Bose sound system. I would suggest you get a wiring diagram for the cars head unit and check to see if this is the problem.
*******Edit: I was able to resolve most of the issues I've been experiencing with my Android Unit. *******
Incorrect Time- I needed to update my firmware, as suggested by users in the forum. The seller was able to send me an updated version at the time.
SWC- My resolution mentioned down below. I may change it back to CAN key and see if the CANBUS connection issue I had was the real culprit.
Random Power cycling- User error. I didn't realize I didn't plug the power cable completely into the unit.
A/C Display- I have @brettf to thank for this. I initially switched cables like he mentioned below, but found they didn't work THE FIRST TIME I did this, so I switched the cables back to their original [incorrect] positions. The second time around, ie. yesterday, I decided to try it again, but this time, I took into account my CANBUS settings. I changed the CANBUS controls to the last ACCORD_7(Chan........) setting and it finally worked for my system. So, now I understand what most users have been talking about in regards to the temperature only being in Celsius. If there's a fix for this that I may have missed, I'd highly appreciate it.
GPS signal- Lol unintentional user error this time, without realizing I even made a mistake. My unit wasn't labeled with which SMA connector was which for the GPS antenna or Bluetooth antenna, so I had accidentally switched them around during my initial installation. I decided to actually take a look at the diagram on AliBaba's seller page and lo and behold, they were indeed switched around. Previously, it would take over 5 minutes for a signal to be fixed and there was no guarantee it would be stable even on a clear day, but after the switch, the GPS signal is strong and fixes immediately to a signal now.
Bluetooth - Even though I'm not an audiophile, the music played from A2DP sounds even better following the aforementioned sma switch around. Tbh, I'm not tech savvy enough to understand how either the GPS or bluetooth have been working at all after all this time since my initial installation, but it works like it's supposed to now.
Mic- I ordered another external mic, so whenever it comes in, I'll try to update and see if there are any improvements with the quality, as I've realized my old mic sounded "distant" before when it was connected to my iSimple device.
Initial issue mentioned below:
Hello. I recently purchased this Seicane unit:
[Alibaba (**dot**) com/product/62132856562/10-1-Inch-Android-9-0.html?tracelog=null
I've been having the usual issues that I kind of anticipated with these Chinese head units *(ie. time was not set correctly when I initially installed it but I was able to fix it with an update, steering wheel controls no longer work(fixed), climate settings I press on the unit do not display on the screen but the A/C still works (fixed), just to name a few examples). But one problem I didn't anticipate was, my unit continuously reboots/powers off after I turn on the car and/or the screen may not come on unless I turn the ignition on and off again (fixed). With that being said, the Bluetooth cuts in and out as well and microphone quality is subpar at best, even after using an external mic from a previous isimple unit used with my original navigation unit.
So far, I honestly like this Seicane unit and I don't have buyer's remorse, but these little annoyances are starting to add up. Is there anyway I can fix these issues, especially the annoying rebooting? Thank you.
I recorded what I'm talking about earlier after work today:
youtu (**dot**) be/VvQnOBJGmWM
Anything at all?
chewybits95 said:
Anything at all?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried returning it, or lodging a dispute with the reseller?
marchnz said:
Have you tried returning it, or lodging a dispute with the reseller?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't want to go that route yet until I troubleshoot it myself. Plus, shipping to China is expensive, so that'll be my last ditch solution if I'm not able to figure out these menial issues.
Others here have experienced these problems you should be able to find their threads. From what I've read before the rebooting was linked to the HU losing internet access but those were units with a SIM card port. Setting airplane mode helped when they had no SIM and/or were connected to the phone hotspot. But if there's a problem with a SIM in relocating the antennas was needed otherwise the unit needs repair.
For the HVAC display you need a CANbus decoder specific to your car. It's not unusual for a seller to not include it unless you told them you need it. You have to be very literal and specific with them. One guy received the wrong one and only fixed it by convincing another seller (Dasaita) to sell him one. In your case it worked before and no more after the update then you may need to try different settings in the CANbus menu. Did you get your update from Seicane? If not you should ask them for one.
nic2k said:
...
For the HVAC display you need a CANbus decoder specific to your car. It's not unusual for a seller to not include it unless you told them you need it. You have to be very literal and specific with them. One guy received the wrong one and only fixed it by convincing another seller (Dasaita) to sell him one. In your case it worked before and no more after the update then you may need to try different settings in the CANbus menu. Did you get your update from Seicane? If not you should ask them for one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think this is the case here. I have the same unit as OP.
Check this thread regarding the Climate Control display issue: https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...1-android-8-2003-accord-t3923783/post79786553
brettf said:
I don't think this is the case here. I have the same unit as OP.
Check this thread regarding the Climate Control display issue: https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...1-android-8-2003-accord-t3923783/post79786553
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How would I go about actually changing the wires around though? Do I just pull them out of the harness? Lol, I'm not an electrician, so I would prefer not to break the unit.
I may have figured out the rebooting issue: when I went back to finally check the back of the unit, I found the power cable with the blue harness wasn't completely connected to the unit. Whoops, lol!
I'll test it out whenever I drive my accord again and see if this definitely fixed the rebooting issue.
chewybits95 said:
How would I go about actually changing the wires around though? Do I just pull them out of the harness? Lol, I'm not an electrician, so I would prefer not to break the unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just pop them out of the connector. There's a little tab on the metal bit inside the connector. If you press it and pull the wire softly, it will pop out.
brettf said:
Just pop them out of the connector. There's a little tab on the metal bit inside the connector. If you press it and pull the wire softly, it will pop out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was able to pop them out like you mentioned, but no changes. Luckily the a/c still works, so I guess I'll just leave it as is for now... Thank you for the guidance.
Follow up- so I was able to diagnose and fix the majority of the issues I listed thanks to you guys.
In terms of the steering wheel controls, Seicane's engineers failed to switch the steering wheel control settings in the factory settings to "SWC keys" before shipping it out. I found this setting only after attempting to install a universal SWC remote myself, so now I was able to retain both my original controls and the newly installed remote, which is a nice addition now. If you guys ever have issues with the car's original SWC settings when installing your unit, check your settings by going to:
CAR (Driving, navigation some settings) -> Factory Settings (passcode 126) -> Other -> Steering wheel keys assign -> ***Switch to SWC Keys if it's set to Can key***
Note- I'm not sure if the settings will differ per android software, but my unit is Android 9.0
chewybits95 said:
I was able to pop them out like you mentioned, but no changes. Luckily the a/c still works, so I guess I'll just leave it as is for now... Thank you for the guidance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should also make sure your car profile is "116 Accord 7" under factory settings - canbus
chewybits95 said:
*******Edit: I was able to resolve most of the issues I've been experiencing with my Android Unit. *******
Incorrect Time- I needed to update my firmware, as suggested by users in the forum. The seller was able to send me an updated version at the time.
SWC- My resolution mentioned down below. I may change it back to CAN key and see if the CANBUS connection issue I had was the real culprit.
Random Power cycling- User error. I didn't realize I didn't plug the power cable completely into the unit.
A/C Display- I have @brettf to thank for this. I initially switched cables like he mentioned below, but found they didn't work THE FIRST TIME I did this, so I switched the cables back to their original [incorrect] positions. The second time around, ie. yesterday, I decided to try it again, but this time, I took into account my CANBUS settings. I changed the CANBUS controls to the last ACCORD_7(Chan........) setting and it finally worked for my system. So, now I understand what most users have been talking about in regards to the temperature only being in Celsius. If there's a fix for this that I may have missed, I'd highly appreciate it.
GPS signal- Lol unintentional user error this time, without realizing I even made a mistake. My unit wasn't labeled with which SMA connector was which for the GPS antenna or Bluetooth antenna, so I had accidentally switched them around during my initial installation. I decided to actually take a look at the diagram on AliBaba's seller page and lo and behold, they were indeed switched around. Previously, it would take over 5 minutes for a signal to be fixed and there was no guarantee it would be stable even on a clear day, but after the switch, the GPS signal is strong and fixes immediately to a signal now.
Bluetooth - Even though I'm not an audiophile, the music played from A2DP sounds even better following the aforementioned sma switch around. Tbh, I'm not tech savvy enough to understand how either the GPS or bluetooth have been working at all after all this time since my initial installation, but it works like it's supposed to now.
Mic- I ordered another external mic, so whenever it comes in, I'll try to update and see if there are any improvements with the quality, as I've realized my old mic sounded "distant" before when it was connected to my iSimple device.
Initial issue mentioned below:
Hello. I recently purchased this Seicane unit:
[Alibaba (**dot**) com/product/62132856562/10-1-Inch-Android-9-0.html?tracelog=null
I've been having the usual issues that I kind of anticipated with these Chinese head units *(ie. time was not set correctly when I initially installed it but I was able to fix it with an update, steering wheel controls no longer work(fixed), climate settings I press on the unit do not display on the screen but the A/C still works (fixed), just to name a few examples). But one problem I didn't anticipate was, my unit continuously reboots/powers off after I turn on the car and/or the screen may not come on unless I turn the ignition on and off again (fixed). With that being said, the Bluetooth cuts in and out as well and microphone quality is subpar at best, even after using an external mic from a previous isimple unit used with my original navigation unit.
So far, I honestly like this Seicane unit and I don't have buyer's remorse, but these little annoyances are starting to add up. Is there anyway I can fix these issues, especially the annoying rebooting? Thank you.
I recorded what I'm talking about earlier after work today:
youtu (**dot**) be/VvQnOBJGmWM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad I could help!
chewybits95 said:
Follow up- so I was able to diagnose and fix the majority of the issues I listed thanks to you guys.
In terms of the steering wheel controls, Seicane's engineers failed to switch the steering wheel control settings in the factory settings to "SWC keys" before shipping it out. I found this setting only after attempting to install a universal SWC remote myself, so now I was able to retain both my original controls and the newly installed remote, which is a nice addition now. If you guys ever have issues with the car's original SWC settings when installing your unit, check your settings by going to:
CAR (Driving, navigation some settings) -> Factory Settings (passcode 126) -> Other -> Steering wheel keys assign -> ***Switch to SWC Keys if it's set to Can key***
Note- I'm not sure if the settings will differ per android software, but my unit is Android 9.0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IF i switch to SWC Key, i cant assign the keys anymore
Solutions?
EGOiST1991 said:
IF i switch to SWC Key, i cant assign the keys anymore
Solutions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Switch it back to Can Key and see if it you assign the key configurations.
SWC worked before I figured out the two CANBUS wires needed to be switched around but I don't feel the need to test if this will work in my car, so see if that may help.
Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
CanBus works fine. Every Function works on the 78 Protokoll. Only the Steering Wheel buttons get a "double Input" but i only press once.
And if i switch to protokoll 46 the Steering Wheel Button works perfect but everything else from canbus does not work (Settings for the car)
chewybits95 said:
*******Edit: I was able to resolve most of the issues I've been experiencing with my Android Unit. *******
Incorrect Time- I needed to update my firmware, as suggested by users in the forum. The seller was able to send me an updated version at the time.
SWC- My resolution mentioned down below. I may change it back to CAN key and see if the CANBUS connection issue I had was the real culprit.
Random Power cycling- User error. I didn't realize I didn't plug the power cable completely into the unit.
A/C Display- I have @brettf to thank for this. I initially switched cables like he mentioned below, but found they didn't work THE FIRST TIME I did this, so I switched the cables back to their original [incorrect] positions. The second time around, ie. yesterday, I decided to try it again, but this time, I took into account my CANBUS settings. I changed the CANBUS controls to the last ACCORD_7(Chan........) setting and it finally worked for my system. So, now I understand what most users have been talking about in regards to the temperature only being in Celsius. If there's a fix for this that I may have missed, I'd highly appreciate it.
GPS signal- Lol unintentional user error this time, without realizing I even made a mistake. My unit wasn't labeled with which SMA connector was which for the GPS antenna or Bluetooth antenna, so I had accidentally switched them around during my initial installation. I decided to actually take a look at the diagram on AliBaba's seller page and lo and behold, they were indeed switched around. Previously, it would take over 5 minutes for a signal to be fixed and there was no guarantee it would be stable even on a clear day, but after the switch, the GPS signal is strong and fixes immediately to a signal now.
Bluetooth - Even though I'm not an audiophile, the music played from A2DP sounds even better following the aforementioned sma switch around. Tbh, I'm not tech savvy enough to understand how either the GPS or bluetooth have been working at all after all this time since my initial installation, but it works like it's supposed to now.
Mic- I ordered another external mic, so whenever it comes in, I'll try to update and see if there are any improvements with the quality, as I've realized my old mic sounded "distant" before when it was connected to my iSimple device.
Initial issue mentioned below:
Hello. I recently purchased this Seicane unit:
[Alibaba (**dot**) com/product/62132856562/10-1-Inch-Android-9-0.html?tracelog=null
I've been having the usual issues that I kind of anticipated with these Chinese head units *(ie. time was not set correctly when I initially installed it but I was able to fix it with an update, steering wheel controls no longer work(fixed), climate settings I press on the unit do not display on the screen but the A/C still works (fixed), just to name a few examples). But one problem I didn't anticipate was, my unit continuously reboots/powers off after I turn on the car and/or the screen may not come on unless I turn the ignition on and off again (fixed). With that being said, the Bluetooth cuts in and out as well and microphone quality is subpar at best, even after using an external mic from a previous isimple unit used with my original navigation unit.
So far, I honestly like this Seicane unit and I don't have buyer's remorse, but these little annoyances are starting to add up. Is there anyway I can fix these issues, especially the annoying rebooting? Thank you.
I recorded what I'm talking about earlier after work today:
youtu (**dot**) be/VvQnOBJGmWM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The chassis was touching bare wires for random **** I didn't have so it kept resetting. Took me an hour to figure it out. You don't need to spend money just get some tape and make sure all the wires are connected or covered
Ahardyg93 said:
The chassis was touching bare wires for random **** I didn't have so it kept resetting. Took me an hour to figure it out. You don't need to spend money just get some tape and make sure all the wires are connected or covered
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol 420 tho I was smoking too
hello friends, I was wondering if you can help me, my CANbus looks like its working and the steering wheel works too, however, the stereo reboots every 3-4 minutes... the thing is that if I connect something it gets frozen, and a couple of seconds it reboots, if I open an app it gets frozen, if I click on any button of the stereo it will work one or three times but then it gets frozen and reboots it again, I'm not able to listen to anything because the stereo reboots all the time many times... I tried with android 9 same error I updated to android 10 still the error, please can you help me with some ideas, I really believe it is a hardware issue and not software. regards
Hi
I have purchased an Android HeadUnit for my Renault Megane 2 (2007) from AliExpress. Every function works except the steering wheel controls. The unit has the UIS7862 CPU @1.8Ghz, 6gb Ram and 128gb storage. I have installed the CanBox correctly and tried many CanBox settings in factory menu, but I cannot get the control app to enter learning mode. Does anyone have any idea? Maybe the built in key map application is at fault (com.syu.steer).
Did you find a solution to your problem yet?
I'm stuck at the exact same scenario, same unit. The support over at AliExpress mention to me to select "XP" for canbox settings. However, my canbus module is by Raise, hence I should be using the "RZC"
Also, my reverse cam doesnt work too.
Pls share your findings. Thank you!
I got the steering wheel keys to work with a custom controller made by an engineer in my country specifically for my car and my HeadUnit. The controller is connected directly to the wheel controls and the "key" wire on my HeadUnit. I had to disassembly the steering wheel base and route the cable around the original one. Now I can map every key to an action in the Key Learning app. For the backup camera, because I used a wireless kit, I couldn't use the "back" camera wire to trigger the HeadUnit to switch to it. The kit came with a receiver which only had power wires and a yellow RCA cable. I wired the receiver's power cables to the ACC power so that the receiver only powers on when the engine is running and I managed to map a button on the steering wheel to switch to the RCA input. Now when I want to use back up camera, I just need to press a button to see the image. The camera's transmitter is wired to the license plate bulb and I managed to fit it in the rear bumper.
This wasn't a "plug and play" experience that the Chinese seller promised, but overall I can say I am pretty happy with the end result. The audio quality is wayyy better than the stock HeadUnit. I didn't know that my stock speakers could get that loud and have so much bass. The DSP chip does it's job wonderfully. Also the radio reception is better than with the stock unit. The Android HeadUnit is fast and snappy. Apps open almost instantly and those 6gb of ram really help. I could compare the overall user experience with my OnePlus 7 phone. The unit also cold boots very quickly. The wifi reception is pretty poor. The unit shows 75% signal when my phone is in the car. It doesn't bother me because I put a Sim card in the unit and the mobile reception is as good as on my phone.
andrei-2200 said:
I got the steering wheel keys to work with a custom controller made by an engineer in my country specifically for my car and my HeadUnit. The controller is connected directly to the wheel controls and the "key" wire on my HeadUnit. I had to disassembly the steering wheel base and route the cable around the original one. Now I can map every key to an action in the Key Learning app. For the backup camera, because I used a wireless kit, I couldn't use the "back" camera wire to trigger the HeadUnit to switch to it. The kit came with a receiver which only had power wires and a yellow RCA cable. I wired the receiver's power cables to the ACC power so that the receiver only powers on when the engine is running and I managed to map a button on the steering wheel to switch to the RCA input. Now when I want to use back up camera, I just need to press a button to see the image. The camera's transmitter is wired to the license plate bulb and I managed to fit it in the rear bumper.
This wasn't a "plug and play" experience that the Chinese seller promised, but overall I can say I am pretty happy with the end result. The audio quality is wayyy better than the stock HeadUnit. I didn't know that my stock speakers could get that loud and have so much bass. The DSP chip does it's job wonderfully. Also the radio reception is better than with the stock unit. The Android HeadUnit is fast and snappy. Apps open almost instantly and those 6gb of ram really help. I could compare the overall user experience with my OnePlus 7 phone. The unit also cold boots very quickly. The wifi reception is pretty poor. The unit shows 75% signal when my phone is in the car. It doesn't bother me because I put a Sim card in the unit and the mobile reception is as good as on my phone.
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Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
MasK said:
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
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Click to collapse
You connected the reverse wire?
Maybe this triggers the camera view of it doesn't work via the canbus.
Well, it does work via canbus, just doesnt switch to cam input automatically. Perhaps its some software settings.
MasK said:
Well, it does work via canbus, just doesnt switch to cam input automatically. Perhaps its some software settings.
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Not all canbus provide the reverse signal. So maybe you have to provide the reverse signal on the separate input.
TorstenH said:
Not all canbus provide the reverse signal. So maybe you have to provide the reverse signal on the separate input.
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I feel that the HU knows when I am referring (CANBUS might be working here), because the 12V turns on when Im in reverse. The only issue is the HU doesnt switch to the cam automatically. Looks to me like a SW issue. Still awaiting reply from manufacturer.
Also, I realised my backward/forward buttons are swapped. Why is it I can't re-learn them?
It may not be the same for the Navifly, but on my unit, G5 must get the proper voltage to "detect" the car has been put in reverse. I'm re-using my factory rear view camera and it's a 6.5V camera. However, I had to up the voltage to 8.6V so that G5 go that voltage...then the rear image showed up. I reused the car wiring and that's why I had to do this.
Check the voltage that G5 is getting. With a canbus module, I believe there is a wire from the canbus going to G5. If no voltage, make sure the pins are in properly.
FYI, if you are using a canbus and the steering wheel controls go through the canbus, then I believe that you cannot remap the keys.
The 12 V from the reverse wire are coming from your car (or in some cases from the canbox if the information gets transmitted from car to the box via canbus).
My suggestion is:
There is a separate reverse connection (usually a brown wire) on the head unit which triggers the radio to open the app which shows the image of the reverse cam.
You could even connect ACC or B+ to the reverse connection for testing purposes.
mastrv said:
It may not be the same for the Navifly, but on my unit, G5 must get the proper voltage to "detect" the car has been put in reverse. I'm re-using my factory rear view camera and it's a 6.5V camera. However, I had to up the voltage to 8.6V so that G5 go that voltage...then the rear image showed up. I reused the car wiring and that's why I had to do this.
Check the voltage that G5 is getting. With a canbus module, I believe there is a wire from the canbus going to G5. If no voltage, make sure the pins are in properly.
FYI, if you are using a canbus and the steering wheel controls go through the canbus, then I believe that you cannot remap the keys.
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Absolutely correct.
Thanks guys, but there is no other brown wire for this.
I have a discussion abt this on this thread too:
Medeke/Navifly 7862
Hi, Recently received above unit for my 2006 RS4. everything is great (much better then the M400 I had before) apart from the radio. It seemed to work for the first 2 days, then worked intermittently and now not at all. I have tried...
forum.xda-developers.com
My "cam12V" wire is from the HU and it turns on when I am in reverse. Does this mean that this signal might be coming from my canbus? If so, is there another input back to the HU to trigger the screen to display the video feed? Only other wires I see are AMP related
Give 12V to pin 2 and check if the app to display the image of the cam will start:
TorstenH said:
Give 12V to pin 2 and check if the app to display the image of the cam will start:
View attachment 5374441
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Yes! It took me a while to figure this out.. mainly because I'll have to cut the wire (wasn't very confident in that)
and also.. the wires at Pin2 didn't make sense! They were more like Battery12V. I did cut and tested that.
So.. it turns out its a pink wire at pin3!
I realized this as I looked at my old Dasaita wires from the canbus connector. Since canbus is a standard, they should be comparable. That reverse wire went into Pin3.
I'm really surprised that Mekede and Navifly has this pin layout printed in all their listings.. but it's just wrong.
Thanks alot for the help!
That means it works now? I think you had to cut the ACC wire according to the manual because the "ignition on" information is provided by the can box.
TorstenH said:
That means it works now? I think you had to cut the ACC wire according to the manual because the "ignition on" information is provided by the can box.
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Yes it works now. Check out the images. The Pin2 (red) is probably ACC or batt 12V as there was no power when cut. I then cut the wire opposite it (pin10) in case I was looking at the connector wrongly. That turned out to be the headlight sensor.
After tracing the wire and comparing to my old Daisata, it turns out Pin3 (pink) is the reverse IN.
Excellent. Thanks for the clarification.
That means it makes sense to get the wiring diagram from the old radio of the car and compare it with the description of the new head unit.
In my case I had to completely rewire the harness (just if someone is interested):
Junsun V1 MTK8259 - the adapter battle (Kia Ceed Jd) / OEM camera usage / reference thread
I bought the Junsun V1 head unit but my Kia Ceed JD had a OEM nav unit which isn't directly compatible to Junsun V1. So I re-wired the wiring harness based on the pins description of my original OEM navigation unit. I'm only modifying the wiring...
forum.xda-developers.com
The only thing that I could compare to (between old and new HUs) is the canbus connectors. Rest cannot be compared as they're all different.
Oh well..
Anyways, the current Mekede I have has Radio chip NX6686. My old Dasaita PX5 also has a NX6686. However, the radio reception is absolutely trash in the new one. I dont listen to radio that often (I can resort to streaming radio) but my dad takes the car occasionally and he's already complained about it
Your experience on the harness rewiring is pretty intense!
Update: Turns out my Antenna connector was a tad loose and I had to do a re-connect. The radio reception is all good now
MasK said:
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you found correct canbus settings and connections .. i cant find anything about you sharing them