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What is a 'WWW' MCU? Anyone using USB Audio?

Hi,
I run a car audio firm, we have a PX5-based unit a client ordered.. The MCU version is "MTCD_WWW_V2.54b_2" .. Our goal is USB audio working proper, among a few other things (better interface if possible, better apps, better SQ stuff)
I haven't seen a "www" mcu anywhere? It's sold as an EONON GA7150A..
Anyone know anything about this MCU? If it's compatible with any others or anything like that? I definitely would like to root it, update the ROM to something better, get rid of the "Windows Mobile" part of it which was, IIRC, advertised as the ability to 'boot' between Android and Windows but is actually just a different interface theme from the home screen.. Also want to do whatever we can for sound quality and smooth experience.
I should note that, as a car audio company (in Canada), we are seriously considering producing our own Android units.. likely 'producing' would consist of getting units like a px5, branding them and primarily, having a SOLID software system built for automotive use. I think a lot of these units are a great start and are ALMOST there for a lot of things but..some of the interface stuff is rushed, not translated great, etc.
What I'd like to see is an Android unit, priced like these ones usually are, but with *really* good class A interfaces. The kind of experience you'd expect on a Samsung phone or a Pioneer headunit. I personally have been using my Samsung Tab S 8.4" in my car as my 'head unit' (paired with a Pioneer single din for a hardware volume knob and some easy control) for along time and I would not want to ever go back.
Here's a short video of the interface and version info..
My eventual goal is getting USB audio working decently. It does work for most Android apps but the volume control only controls the internal audio chip, and the radio app routes through the internal audio chip as well.. I assume perhaps other sources like DVD and line-in would as well, I haven't verified but I will pretty quick here. I plan on making another video showing what works/what doesn't/how it works.
I'm hoping for a software only solution but am happy to hack the hardware if needed. I'm using a Behringer UCA-222 as a "DAC" (same as 202 but red in color) but won't actually be using the DAC in it but only it's optical output into an Audison Bit 8.9 DSP/Amplifier.
There's the possibility of routing the px5's audio output RCA's to the Behringer's Input and 'monitoring' that input to the optical output via software but that doesn't solve the fact the volume control does nothing for apps when using the USB.. Eg, youtube plays through USB/optical fine but volume control doesn't change the volume..Radio plays through the px5's audio chip and volume control controls that, and shows on screen.. I could force everything to play thru the px5 audio chip and then monitor it to optical but that defeats the purpose of what I'm trying to do completely (full digital audio to the amplifier).
I'm willing to sacrifice some sources re-routed like that though, eg, the radio would be fine as it already sounds ****. Aux in also doesn't sound great usually and won't be used in this car anyway. DVD would be nice to have optical out as well but
I'm currently still searching for a schematic/block diagram for these devices, this would probably answer a lot of my questions like.. I'm curious whether audio from any of the other onboard devices (radio, dvd, aux in) go through Android at all or whether they're directly sourced to the output chip.
If it's the latter - that sucks - but I wouldn't be surprised. I have read the thread about the hardware hack to allow android control of the audio chip but I don't see this giving me the functionality I need. If it is wired like this, and I can get the other components (eg. radio chip) to output their audio to Android, digitally somehow and have Android push it to the USB audio device that'd be cool.
Is no one else using a USB dac on any of these units? I have many years experience coding, hacking, electronic engineering, tinkering, etc. including Android but I haven't done many of these Android Head Units.. A lot of times we use tablets instead! But this client wanted OEM look..so we thought we'd give it a shot.
The difference between the audio quality from the internal DAC and the USB audio device's optical routed directly to the DSP (digital to the power amp) is definitely noticeable, even with there being very little noise picked up in our interconnects.

Hi,
I can help you only with WWW MCU,
forbiddenera said:
Hi,
I run a car audio firm, we have a PX5-based unit a client ordered.. The MCU version is "MTCD_WWW_V2.54b_2" .. Our goal is USB audio working proper, among a few other things (better interface if possible, better apps, better SQ stuff)
I haven't seen a "www" mcu anywhere? It's sold as an EONON GA7150A..
Anyone know anything about this MCU? If it's compatible with any others or anything like that? I definitely would like to root it, update the ROM to something better, get rid of the "Windows Mobile" part of it which was, IIRC, advertised as the ability to 'boot' between Android and Windows but is actually just a different interface theme from the home screen.. Also want to do whatever we can for sound quality and smooth experience.
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Click to collapse
tha same question (#1956) i read in this thread https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...-head-unit-discussion-thread-t3573881/page196
it should be KLD (klyde), you can read the answer in post #1959

Thanks for the pointer.

Hi,
I uses the newsmy carpad since 2 yrs with android box with wince interface and same issue of radio, bt and dvd being analog while the android side of things is 100% digital output via the included hdmi.
I put aside my alpine pxa-h900 and installed the helix dsp pro with auto switching of input with priority on digital input and use internet radio apps, android bt apps and plugged in an usb portable drive for dvd/cd.
Cheers.
Richard
Singapore

PX5 Android head unit no sound

I just bought a Belsee PX5 Octo Core Android Head Unit for my 2016 Hyundai Veloster. It has a custom harness made for the car. It works great, except there is no sound. The backup camera works, the steering wheel controls work. Everything works....except sound. I am trying to work with Belsee via Email, but we all know how that goes. I am wondering if any of you fine people might have any suggestions that I can try.
I have gone into Factory Settings menu and changed the CANBUS to Hyundai &KIA, still no sound. The Veloster requires a signal over the CANBUS to turn the factory Amp on and produce sound.
Thanx in advance.

what did the reseller suggest when you contacted them for support? Was that to change CanBus settings?

Hi, i have the same problem after upgrading from px3... Did you resolve the problem?

I now have sound..had to swap to a harness with a CANBUS controller on it. But, the EQ does not work, the rear speakers are super low, and there is that electrical whine from the engine. But at least there is sound.

Hi I am new here but I also had the same issue with my Nissan qashqai and the Bose system. I have found that on my vehicle in the Belsee power harness that pin 1 was not present which is the 12v positive that feeds the Bose sound system. I would suggest you get a wiring diagram for the cars head unit and check to see if this is the problem.

Max6 PX6 full system audio stopped working

I had been using my unit for more than 6 months and everything was great, I got home from school during spring break and installed my rear view camera. Camera works fine, however, now there is no sound from anything. I uninstalled this unit and re-installed the original from the car and everything was fine all speaker worked as did volume and changing stations. Re-installed the Dasaita unit again no sound. I tested all the plug and play wires from plug to plug and there were no shorts and all wires passed a continuity test with my voltmeter. I tried undoing all the rear camera work that I did, this didn't change anything. I have factory reset the unit more time than I can count. I also installed the newest software and firmware updates (MTCE version: V3.45 and MAX6 Version : PX6 HA2_rk3399_9.0_ota(20200320)).
There is no sound from the radio, from Apple Car Play, not even sound from the side unit volume buttons.
My car is a 2008 Honda civic LX, and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I am currently out of ideas.
Thank you,
Austin

Same exact thing happened to me.

Are you using the RCA outputs into an amp, or the speaker-level outputs via the 20pin connector on the back of the head unit? Have your CanBus settings in the Factory Settings changed at all?

20pin connector. I had to install a new motherboard that I got from Daisata due to my wifi not working on the previous board they sent me. Now I have no wifi and no audio with this board. I tried all the CanBus settings that match my Jeep, but no audio. The steering wheel controls do work, so it seems like I have the right CanBus selected.

When all audio goes, including button beeps all you can say is it's dead Jim. How dead might make the difference between sending it back or fixing it. Of course make sure it's not on mute. You could always start by contacting your seller for warranty. Next connect an amplified speaker to the RCA line out, if you get sound that means the amplifier IC is not working and it's a fairly easy fix. Unless you had other issues with audio before it's likely bad solder joints on the amplifier pins. You could re-heat the pins with an iron but it would be better to remove the old solder and replace it with good 60/40 lead solder.
---------- Post added at 07:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:06 PM ----------
Took me a while to post the previous one and I just saw your new post. Is there another board that connects to the motherboard? Units with 2 boards have a MCU and a SoM. The USB comes from the SoM and goes to a hub on the MCU. The WiFi board is connected through USB, check if your USB ports work. The pins of the female SoM connector can get damaged, some people have fixed it with metal foil as mentioned in the warning on this thread.

BrokenDasaita said:
20pin connector. I had to install a new motherboard that I got from Daisata due to my wifi not working on the previous board they sent me. Now I have no wifi and no audio with this board. I tried all the CanBus settings that match my Jeep, but no audio. The steering wheel controls do work, so it seems like I have the right CanBus selected.
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Click to collapse
In the CanBus settings in the Factory Settings, there is a selection "With Amplifier/Without Amplifier" and as far as I can see, this selects which outputs you are using (ie speaker-level outputs on the 20 pin connector, or line-level outputs via the RCA connectors). It also does some other things likes make parts of the DSP unavailable, but try flipping this selection and see if you get sound.

I think that refers to whether you have the built in amplifier that comes with some Jeep models or not. Unfortunately, I tried both options and neither work.

Were you able to get this resolved?
I have the same problem with my Honda Civic 2012 LX.

I have the same problem.
I bougth a new head unit. Everything works exept the sound.
But the System Sounds and the radio also work. I tried different can settings also without can.

Question NaviFly 7862 steering wheel controls not working

Hi
I have purchased an Android HeadUnit for my Renault Megane 2 (2007) from AliExpress. Every function works except the steering wheel controls. The unit has the UIS7862 CPU @1.8Ghz, 6gb Ram and 128gb storage. I have installed the CanBox correctly and tried many CanBox settings in factory menu, but I cannot get the control app to enter learning mode. Does anyone have any idea? Maybe the built in key map application is at fault (com.syu.steer).

Did you find a solution to your problem yet?
I'm stuck at the exact same scenario, same unit. The support over at AliExpress mention to me to select "XP" for canbox settings. However, my canbus module is by Raise, hence I should be using the "RZC"
Also, my reverse cam doesnt work too.
Pls share your findings. Thank you!

I got the steering wheel keys to work with a custom controller made by an engineer in my country specifically for my car and my HeadUnit. The controller is connected directly to the wheel controls and the "key" wire on my HeadUnit. I had to disassembly the steering wheel base and route the cable around the original one. Now I can map every key to an action in the Key Learning app. For the backup camera, because I used a wireless kit, I couldn't use the "back" camera wire to trigger the HeadUnit to switch to it. The kit came with a receiver which only had power wires and a yellow RCA cable. I wired the receiver's power cables to the ACC power so that the receiver only powers on when the engine is running and I managed to map a button on the steering wheel to switch to the RCA input. Now when I want to use back up camera, I just need to press a button to see the image. The camera's transmitter is wired to the license plate bulb and I managed to fit it in the rear bumper.
This wasn't a "plug and play" experience that the Chinese seller promised, but overall I can say I am pretty happy with the end result. The audio quality is wayyy better than the stock HeadUnit. I didn't know that my stock speakers could get that loud and have so much bass. The DSP chip does it's job wonderfully. Also the radio reception is better than with the stock unit. The Android HeadUnit is fast and snappy. Apps open almost instantly and those 6gb of ram really help. I could compare the overall user experience with my OnePlus 7 phone. The unit also cold boots very quickly. The wifi reception is pretty poor. The unit shows 75% signal when my phone is in the car. It doesn't bother me because I put a Sim card in the unit and the mobile reception is as good as on my phone.

andrei-2200 said:
I got the steering wheel keys to work with a custom controller made by an engineer in my country specifically for my car and my HeadUnit. The controller is connected directly to the wheel controls and the "key" wire on my HeadUnit. I had to disassembly the steering wheel base and route the cable around the original one. Now I can map every key to an action in the Key Learning app. For the backup camera, because I used a wireless kit, I couldn't use the "back" camera wire to trigger the HeadUnit to switch to it. The kit came with a receiver which only had power wires and a yellow RCA cable. I wired the receiver's power cables to the ACC power so that the receiver only powers on when the engine is running and I managed to map a button on the steering wheel to switch to the RCA input. Now when I want to use back up camera, I just need to press a button to see the image. The camera's transmitter is wired to the license plate bulb and I managed to fit it in the rear bumper.
This wasn't a "plug and play" experience that the Chinese seller promised, but overall I can say I am pretty happy with the end result. The audio quality is wayyy better than the stock HeadUnit. I didn't know that my stock speakers could get that loud and have so much bass. The DSP chip does it's job wonderfully. Also the radio reception is better than with the stock unit. The Android HeadUnit is fast and snappy. Apps open almost instantly and those 6gb of ram really help. I could compare the overall user experience with my OnePlus 7 phone. The unit also cold boots very quickly. The wifi reception is pretty poor. The unit shows 75% signal when my phone is in the car. It doesn't bother me because I put a Sim card in the unit and the mobile reception is as good as on my phone.
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Click to collapse
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!

MasK said:
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You connected the reverse wire?
Maybe this triggers the camera view of it doesn't work via the canbus.

Well, it does work via canbus, just doesnt switch to cam input automatically. Perhaps its some software settings.

MasK said:
Well, it does work via canbus, just doesnt switch to cam input automatically. Perhaps its some software settings.
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Click to collapse
Not all canbus provide the reverse signal. So maybe you have to provide the reverse signal on the separate input.

TorstenH said:
Not all canbus provide the reverse signal. So maybe you have to provide the reverse signal on the separate input.
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Click to collapse
I feel that the HU knows when I am referring (CANBUS might be working here), because the 12V turns on when Im in reverse. The only issue is the HU doesnt switch to the cam automatically. Looks to me like a SW issue. Still awaiting reply from manufacturer.
Also, I realised my backward/forward buttons are swapped. Why is it I can't re-learn them?

It may not be the same for the Navifly, but on my unit, G5 must get the proper voltage to "detect" the car has been put in reverse. I'm re-using my factory rear view camera and it's a 6.5V camera. However, I had to up the voltage to 8.6V so that G5 go that voltage...then the rear image showed up. I reused the car wiring and that's why I had to do this.
Check the voltage that G5 is getting. With a canbus module, I believe there is a wire from the canbus going to G5. If no voltage, make sure the pins are in properly.
FYI, if you are using a canbus and the steering wheel controls go through the canbus, then I believe that you cannot remap the keys.

The 12 V from the reverse wire are coming from your car (or in some cases from the canbox if the information gets transmitted from car to the box via canbus).
My suggestion is:
There is a separate reverse connection (usually a brown wire) on the head unit which triggers the radio to open the app which shows the image of the reverse cam.
You could even connect ACC or B+ to the reverse connection for testing purposes.

mastrv said:
It may not be the same for the Navifly, but on my unit, G5 must get the proper voltage to "detect" the car has been put in reverse. I'm re-using my factory rear view camera and it's a 6.5V camera. However, I had to up the voltage to 8.6V so that G5 go that voltage...then the rear image showed up. I reused the car wiring and that's why I had to do this.
Check the voltage that G5 is getting. With a canbus module, I believe there is a wire from the canbus going to G5. If no voltage, make sure the pins are in properly.
FYI, if you are using a canbus and the steering wheel controls go through the canbus, then I believe that you cannot remap the keys.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Absolutely correct.

Thanks guys, but there is no other brown wire for this.
I have a discussion abt this on this thread too:
Medeke/Navifly 7862
Hi, Recently received above unit for my 2006 RS4. everything is great (much better then the M400 I had before) apart from the radio. It seemed to work for the first 2 days, then worked intermittently and now not at all. I have tried...
forum.xda-developers.com
My "cam12V" wire is from the HU and it turns on when I am in reverse. Does this mean that this signal might be coming from my canbus? If so, is there another input back to the HU to trigger the screen to display the video feed? Only other wires I see are AMP related

Give 12V to pin 2 and check if the app to display the image of the cam will start:

TorstenH said:
Give 12V to pin 2 and check if the app to display the image of the cam will start:
View attachment 5374441
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Click to collapse
Yes! It took me a while to figure this out.. mainly because I'll have to cut the wire (wasn't very confident in that)
and also.. the wires at Pin2 didn't make sense! They were more like Battery12V. I did cut and tested that.
So.. it turns out its a pink wire at pin3!
I realized this as I looked at my old Dasaita wires from the canbus connector. Since canbus is a standard, they should be comparable. That reverse wire went into Pin3.
I'm really surprised that Mekede and Navifly has this pin layout printed in all their listings.. but it's just wrong.
Thanks alot for the help!

That means it works now? I think you had to cut the ACC wire according to the manual because the "ignition on" information is provided by the can box.

TorstenH said:
That means it works now? I think you had to cut the ACC wire according to the manual because the "ignition on" information is provided by the can box.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it works now. Check out the images. The Pin2 (red) is probably ACC or batt 12V as there was no power when cut. I then cut the wire opposite it (pin10) in case I was looking at the connector wrongly. That turned out to be the headlight sensor.
After tracing the wire and comparing to my old Daisata, it turns out Pin3 (pink) is the reverse IN.

Excellent. Thanks for the clarification.
That means it makes sense to get the wiring diagram from the old radio of the car and compare it with the description of the new head unit.
In my case I had to completely rewire the harness (just if someone is interested):
Junsun V1 MTK8259 - the adapter battle (Kia Ceed Jd) / OEM camera usage / reference thread
I bought the Junsun V1 head unit but my Kia Ceed JD had a OEM nav unit which isn't directly compatible to Junsun V1. So I re-wired the wiring harness based on the pins description of my original OEM navigation unit. I'm only modifying the wiring...
forum.xda-developers.com

The only thing that I could compare to (between old and new HUs) is the canbus connectors. Rest cannot be compared as they're all different.
Oh well..
Anyways, the current Mekede I have has Radio chip NX6686. My old Dasaita PX5 also has a NX6686. However, the radio reception is absolutely trash in the new one. I dont listen to radio that often (I can resort to streaming radio) but my dad takes the car occasionally and he's already complained about it
Your experience on the harness rewiring is pretty intense!
Update: Turns out my Antenna connector was a tad loose and I had to do a re-connect. The radio reception is all good now

MasK said:
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you found correct canbus settings and connections .. i cant find anything about you sharing them

Hardware Development Enabling audio output on VW MkVI GTI w/ Dynaudio

I'm not sure this is the best place for this, but given how hard it was to find good information about this combination, I thought I'd put it here.
I purchased a M500S for my MkVI GTI, however when I installed it, I couldn't get any audio output. Searching the internet for how to use the stock amp with an aftermarket head-unit yielded lots of different information, most of it wrong. I talked to the vendor, but they were less than helpful, indicating that Dynaudio was unsupported with this head unit (true) and that VW used an optical signal to communicate between the head unit and amplifier (untrue). I saw a post from @COASTER19 regarding reading the steering wheel buttons on an Audi here, which looked awfully similar to my steering-wheel/gauge cluster, so figured I'd give it a go myself.
So I built hooked a cheap CAN bus controller to a Raspberry Pi, and analyzed my current (working head unit). I was able to determine that:
The media CAN bus runs at 100 kbps (as opposed to the drivetrain canbus which runs at 500 kbps)
The amplifier has an identifier of 0x6C7
The amplifier can be powered on/off via CAN bus commands
Once powered on, the M500S audio worked fine
The amplifier supports direct balance/fade commands (which may be useful some day in the future)
With this info, in hand, I made a simple circuit from an Arduino Pro Mini + MCP2515 module that is activated from the 'Amp Power' lead on the back of the radio. It simply replays the messages I snooped from the current head-unit, and now my M500S works perfectly with the stock Dynaudio amplifier/speakers. I don't currently send the fade/balance commands to the amp, so maybe the quality could be better, but that is a project for another day.
I have released the schematics, code and what CAN info I have on GitHub here.
In theory this project could completely replace the module that came with the unit and/or provide music/navigation updates on the gauge cluster as well, but that requires figuring out how to get that info out of the head unit, and I don't have the time to write an Android application to do so right now.

While trying to identify the CAN ids, I found this post by @hugovw1976
regarding a Golf 6 with some CAN bus commands: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/mtcd-kgl-px5-canbus-problem-with-vw-golf-6.3632690/post-73939457
That post identifies the following canids:
0x2C3: power on/off
0x635: lights on/off
0x470: doors open
0x35B: RPM
0x527: Speed and outside temperature
0x621: Wiper state and fuel level
0x65D: odometer
0x351: reverse and brake
0x571: battery voltage
0x151: seat-belt state
I didn't spend too much time investigating these, but I at least see some correlation with the battery voltage, door-open, and fuel-level canids, so they are probably accurate. However, I was not able to correlate the odometer, so probably further investigation is needed there.

AxesofEvil said:
I'm not sure this is the best place for this, but given how hard it was to find good information about this combination, I thought I'd put it here.
I purchased a M500S for my MkVI GTI, however when I installed it, I couldn't get any audio output. Searching the internet for how to use the stock amp with an aftermarket head-unit yielded lots of different information, most of it wrong. I talked to the vendor, but they were less than helpful, indicating that Dynaudio was unsupported with this head unit (true) and that VW used an optical signal to communicate between the head unit and amplifier (untrue). I saw a post from @COASTER19 regarding reading the steering wheel buttons on an Audi here, which looked awfully similar to my steering-wheel/gauge cluster, so figured I'd give it a go myself.
So I built hooked a cheap CAN bus controller to a Raspberry Pi, and analyzed my current (working head unit). I was able to determine that:
The media CAN bus runs at 100 kbps (as opposed to the drivetrain canbus which runs at 500 kbps)
The amplifier has an identifier of 0x6C7
The amplifier can be powered on/off via CAN bus commands
Once powered on, the M500S audio worked fine
The amplifier supports direct balance/fade commands (which may be useful some day in the future)
With this info, in hand, I made a simple circuit from an Arduino Pro Mini + MCP2515 module that is activated from the 'Amp Power' lead on the back of the radio. It simply replays the messages I snooped from the current head-unit, and now my M500S works perfectly with the stock Dynaudio amplifier/speakers. I don't currently send the fade/balance commands to the amp, so maybe the quality could be better, but that is a project for another day.
I have released the schematics, code and what CAN info I have on GitHub here.
In theory this project could completely replace the module that came with the unit and/or provide music/navigation updates on the gauge cluster as well, but that requires figuring out how to get that info out of the head unit, and I don't have the time to write an Android application to do so right now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I registered to this forum specifically to reply to your post. THANK YOU. I have just installed an aftermarket head unit and it went swimmingly until I discovered that it doesn't play nicely with my factory upgrade audio system. Then things went from bad to worse when I discovered that the Dynaudio/Fender amplifier is controlled via CAN, not just some 12V signal. I was going to reinstall the factory RNS510 and sniff the CAN bus when I came across this post and your github code.
I have not tried it yet, as I am hoping that the vendor (who is VERY responsive) will be able to integrate it right into the radio. Failing that, I'll be able to whip up a similar circuit to yours and be up and running. Thank you for sharing not just the code, but the technical details behind it. I truly appreciate it!