Database Info

Reversing camera connection issues

Hello,
I've got MTCE unit (PX3) that I'm trying to install into Toyota truck. I've had another unit in previously and it had a reversing camera that was activated when the reverse was engaged by a dedicated wire in a harness. I've connected my camera to Video-In connector (H-5 on the attached harness). I can see video fine if I run AVID application, so this is working. What is not working is automatic engagement when I put the car in the reverse.
I can't seems to find a dedicated reverse signal. I understand that it may detect reverse through CanBus and I've connected included CanBus decoder to the unit, however it still doesn't work.
Am I missing something and what would the recommended troubleshooting suggestions?

Hi,
You are doing it wrong. You should not connect the video signal to Video IN of the unit. This way - the picture will show only when you launch the AVIN application. You should connect it to the CAMERA or REVERSE labeled plug. What is the G plug for ? Is it for a reverse camera or Car DVR ?
You can power up the camera (+12V and GND) from the white reverse light.

Thanks for the reply, however I can't sadly see any REVERSE or CAMERA labeled connectors on my unit. Plug G has microphone cable and that is it (see attached). Plug H has also a connector labeled DR-V and main connector has something labeled CCD-IN. I've tried plugging my camera to these connectors and sadly none of them seems to show camera feed when the reverse is engaged. Any other ideas on how I can get camera to work?

SuperPuper2K said:
Thanks for the reply, however I can't sadly see any REVERSE or CAMERA labeled connectors on my unit. Plug G has microphone cable and that is it (see attached). Plug H has also a connector labeled DR-V and main connector has something labeled CCD-IN. I've tried plugging my camera to these connectors and sadly none of them seems to show camera feed when the reverse is engaged. Any other ideas on how I can get camera to work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you bought it, was it advertised as having this capability? If so, I'd try to get a refund. Mine (and most others that I've seen) that have reverse functionality have a dedicated video in line that's labeled as such.

See K 5 and 6.

Hazard15301 said:
When you bought it, was it advertised as having this capability? If so, I'd try to get a refund. Mine (and most others that I've seen) that have reverse functionality have a dedicated video in line that's labeled as such.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the unit has reversing camera as an option and sadly the seller is less then helpful in resolving this issue. Having looked on the forums I can see that even when the camera is not connected the head unit should switch to black screen when reverse is engaged. In my case it doesn't do that. Does it mean that something is not working with CAN bus decoder? I've looked through factory settings and tried all options available for my car manufacturer and sadly they didn't make any difference.
Is there a way to test CAN bus decoder to see if it is working at all or not?

I have a reversing camera problem albeit a different one, that's been worse today. Sometimes after I finish reversing the camera image stays on the screen, frozen. I don't know if something's wrong with the reverse detection input or the camera video signal. I've had this with other units of the same model (KSP) or at least they were also MTCD PX5. My thought is to play with the resistances to the MCU. For now if I reboot it's back to normal.

SuperPuper2K said:
Am I missing something and what would the recommended troubleshooting suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your reverse camera should go to the main power connector 5th pin(CAM-IN) and reverse trigger line should go to 6th pin(CAM-LINE).
Ideally your main power connector should have yellow video in connector which connects ground and 5th pin.

smnrock said:
Your reverse camera should go to the main power connector 5th pin(CAM-IN) and reverse trigger line should go to 6th pin(CAM-LINE).
Ideally your main power connector should have yellow video in connector which connects ground and 5th pin.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You've just made my day. This was exactly the solution to my issue. The wires were connected to some strange connector, however after I've rewired it to my camera everything started working just fine.
Thanks a lot for your help.

hello
I have exact same issue, with wireless camera connector , have yellow connector to ccd in and nothing changes maybe somebody could draw scheme how to connect to head unit , have same connector.

(resolved) Seicane unit keeps rebooting/powering off

*******Edit: I was able to resolve most of the issues I've been experiencing with my Android Unit. *******
Incorrect Time- I needed to update my firmware, as suggested by users in the forum. The seller was able to send me an updated version at the time.
SWC- My resolution mentioned down below. I may change it back to CAN key and see if the CANBUS connection issue I had was the real culprit.
Random Power cycling- User error. I didn't realize I didn't plug the power cable completely into the unit.
A/C Display- I have @brettf to thank for this. I initially switched cables like he mentioned below, but found they didn't work THE FIRST TIME I did this, so I switched the cables back to their original [incorrect] positions. The second time around, ie. yesterday, I decided to try it again, but this time, I took into account my CANBUS settings. I changed the CANBUS controls to the last ACCORD_7(Chan........) setting and it finally worked for my system. So, now I understand what most users have been talking about in regards to the temperature only being in Celsius. If there's a fix for this that I may have missed, I'd highly appreciate it.
GPS signal- Lol unintentional user error this time, without realizing I even made a mistake. My unit wasn't labeled with which SMA connector was which for the GPS antenna or Bluetooth antenna, so I had accidentally switched them around during my initial installation. I decided to actually take a look at the diagram on AliBaba's seller page and lo and behold, they were indeed switched around. Previously, it would take over 5 minutes for a signal to be fixed and there was no guarantee it would be stable even on a clear day, but after the switch, the GPS signal is strong and fixes immediately to a signal now.
Bluetooth - Even though I'm not an audiophile, the music played from A2DP sounds even better following the aforementioned sma switch around. Tbh, I'm not tech savvy enough to understand how either the GPS or bluetooth have been working at all after all this time since my initial installation, but it works like it's supposed to now.
Mic- I ordered another external mic, so whenever it comes in, I'll try to update and see if there are any improvements with the quality, as I've realized my old mic sounded "distant" before when it was connected to my iSimple device.
Initial issue mentioned below:
Hello. I recently purchased this Seicane unit:
[Alibaba (**dot**) com/product/62132856562/10-1-Inch-Android-9-0.html?tracelog=null
I've been having the usual issues that I kind of anticipated with these Chinese head units *(ie. time was not set correctly when I initially installed it but I was able to fix it with an update, steering wheel controls no longer work(fixed), climate settings I press on the unit do not display on the screen but the A/C still works (fixed), just to name a few examples). But one problem I didn't anticipate was, my unit continuously reboots/powers off after I turn on the car and/or the screen may not come on unless I turn the ignition on and off again (fixed). With that being said, the Bluetooth cuts in and out as well and microphone quality is subpar at best, even after using an external mic from a previous isimple unit used with my original navigation unit.
So far, I honestly like this Seicane unit and I don't have buyer's remorse, but these little annoyances are starting to add up. Is there anyway I can fix these issues, especially the annoying rebooting? Thank you.
I recorded what I'm talking about earlier after work today:
youtu (**dot**) be/VvQnOBJGmWM

Anything at all?

chewybits95 said:
Anything at all?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried returning it, or lodging a dispute with the reseller?

marchnz said:
Have you tried returning it, or lodging a dispute with the reseller?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't want to go that route yet until I troubleshoot it myself. Plus, shipping to China is expensive, so that'll be my last ditch solution if I'm not able to figure out these menial issues.

Others here have experienced these problems you should be able to find their threads. From what I've read before the rebooting was linked to the HU losing internet access but those were units with a SIM card port. Setting airplane mode helped when they had no SIM and/or were connected to the phone hotspot. But if there's a problem with a SIM in relocating the antennas was needed otherwise the unit needs repair.
For the HVAC display you need a CANbus decoder specific to your car. It's not unusual for a seller to not include it unless you told them you need it. You have to be very literal and specific with them. One guy received the wrong one and only fixed it by convincing another seller (Dasaita) to sell him one. In your case it worked before and no more after the update then you may need to try different settings in the CANbus menu. Did you get your update from Seicane? If not you should ask them for one.

nic2k said:
...
For the HVAC display you need a CANbus decoder specific to your car. It's not unusual for a seller to not include it unless you told them you need it. You have to be very literal and specific with them. One guy received the wrong one and only fixed it by convincing another seller (Dasaita) to sell him one. In your case it worked before and no more after the update then you may need to try different settings in the CANbus menu. Did you get your update from Seicane? If not you should ask them for one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think this is the case here. I have the same unit as OP.
Check this thread regarding the Climate Control display issue: https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...1-android-8-2003-accord-t3923783/post79786553

brettf said:
I don't think this is the case here. I have the same unit as OP.
Check this thread regarding the Climate Control display issue: https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...1-android-8-2003-accord-t3923783/post79786553
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How would I go about actually changing the wires around though? Do I just pull them out of the harness? Lol, I'm not an electrician, so I would prefer not to break the unit.

I may have figured out the rebooting issue: when I went back to finally check the back of the unit, I found the power cable with the blue harness wasn't completely connected to the unit. Whoops, lol!
I'll test it out whenever I drive my accord again and see if this definitely fixed the rebooting issue.

chewybits95 said:
How would I go about actually changing the wires around though? Do I just pull them out of the harness? Lol, I'm not an electrician, so I would prefer not to break the unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just pop them out of the connector. There's a little tab on the metal bit inside the connector. If you press it and pull the wire softly, it will pop out.

brettf said:
Just pop them out of the connector. There's a little tab on the metal bit inside the connector. If you press it and pull the wire softly, it will pop out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was able to pop them out like you mentioned, but no changes. Luckily the a/c still works, so I guess I'll just leave it as is for now... Thank you for the guidance.

Follow up- so I was able to diagnose and fix the majority of the issues I listed thanks to you guys.
In terms of the steering wheel controls, Seicane's engineers failed to switch the steering wheel control settings in the factory settings to "SWC keys" before shipping it out. I found this setting only after attempting to install a universal SWC remote myself, so now I was able to retain both my original controls and the newly installed remote, which is a nice addition now. If you guys ever have issues with the car's original SWC settings when installing your unit, check your settings by going to:
CAR (Driving, navigation some settings) -> Factory Settings (passcode 126) -> Other -> Steering wheel keys assign -> ***Switch to SWC Keys if it's set to Can key***
Note- I'm not sure if the settings will differ per android software, but my unit is Android 9.0

chewybits95 said:
I was able to pop them out like you mentioned, but no changes. Luckily the a/c still works, so I guess I'll just leave it as is for now... Thank you for the guidance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should also make sure your car profile is "116 Accord 7" under factory settings - canbus

chewybits95 said:
*******Edit: I was able to resolve most of the issues I've been experiencing with my Android Unit. *******
Incorrect Time- I needed to update my firmware, as suggested by users in the forum. The seller was able to send me an updated version at the time.
SWC- My resolution mentioned down below. I may change it back to CAN key and see if the CANBUS connection issue I had was the real culprit.
Random Power cycling- User error. I didn't realize I didn't plug the power cable completely into the unit.
A/C Display- I have @brettf to thank for this. I initially switched cables like he mentioned below, but found they didn't work THE FIRST TIME I did this, so I switched the cables back to their original [incorrect] positions. The second time around, ie. yesterday, I decided to try it again, but this time, I took into account my CANBUS settings. I changed the CANBUS controls to the last ACCORD_7(Chan........) setting and it finally worked for my system. So, now I understand what most users have been talking about in regards to the temperature only being in Celsius. If there's a fix for this that I may have missed, I'd highly appreciate it.
GPS signal- Lol unintentional user error this time, without realizing I even made a mistake. My unit wasn't labeled with which SMA connector was which for the GPS antenna or Bluetooth antenna, so I had accidentally switched them around during my initial installation. I decided to actually take a look at the diagram on AliBaba's seller page and lo and behold, they were indeed switched around. Previously, it would take over 5 minutes for a signal to be fixed and there was no guarantee it would be stable even on a clear day, but after the switch, the GPS signal is strong and fixes immediately to a signal now.
Bluetooth - Even though I'm not an audiophile, the music played from A2DP sounds even better following the aforementioned sma switch around. Tbh, I'm not tech savvy enough to understand how either the GPS or bluetooth have been working at all after all this time since my initial installation, but it works like it's supposed to now.
Mic- I ordered another external mic, so whenever it comes in, I'll try to update and see if there are any improvements with the quality, as I've realized my old mic sounded "distant" before when it was connected to my iSimple device.
Initial issue mentioned below:
Hello. I recently purchased this Seicane unit:
[Alibaba (**dot**) com/product/62132856562/10-1-Inch-Android-9-0.html?tracelog=null
I've been having the usual issues that I kind of anticipated with these Chinese head units *(ie. time was not set correctly when I initially installed it but I was able to fix it with an update, steering wheel controls no longer work(fixed), climate settings I press on the unit do not display on the screen but the A/C still works (fixed), just to name a few examples). But one problem I didn't anticipate was, my unit continuously reboots/powers off after I turn on the car and/or the screen may not come on unless I turn the ignition on and off again (fixed). With that being said, the Bluetooth cuts in and out as well and microphone quality is subpar at best, even after using an external mic from a previous isimple unit used with my original navigation unit.
So far, I honestly like this Seicane unit and I don't have buyer's remorse, but these little annoyances are starting to add up. Is there anyway I can fix these issues, especially the annoying rebooting? Thank you.
I recorded what I'm talking about earlier after work today:
youtu (**dot**) be/VvQnOBJGmWM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad I could help!

chewybits95 said:
Follow up- so I was able to diagnose and fix the majority of the issues I listed thanks to you guys.
In terms of the steering wheel controls, Seicane's engineers failed to switch the steering wheel control settings in the factory settings to "SWC keys" before shipping it out. I found this setting only after attempting to install a universal SWC remote myself, so now I was able to retain both my original controls and the newly installed remote, which is a nice addition now. If you guys ever have issues with the car's original SWC settings when installing your unit, check your settings by going to:
CAR (Driving, navigation some settings) -> Factory Settings (passcode 126) -> Other -> Steering wheel keys assign -> ***Switch to SWC Keys if it's set to Can key***
Note- I'm not sure if the settings will differ per android software, but my unit is Android 9.0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IF i switch to SWC Key, i cant assign the keys anymore
Solutions?

EGOiST1991 said:
IF i switch to SWC Key, i cant assign the keys anymore
Solutions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Switch it back to Can Key and see if it you assign the key configurations.
SWC worked before I figured out the two CANBUS wires needed to be switched around but I don't feel the need to test if this will work in my car, so see if that may help.
Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk

CanBus works fine. Every Function works on the 78 Protokoll. Only the Steering Wheel buttons get a "double Input" but i only press once.
And if i switch to protokoll 46 the Steering Wheel Button works perfect but everything else from canbus does not work (Settings for the car)

chewybits95 said:
*******Edit: I was able to resolve most of the issues I've been experiencing with my Android Unit. *******
Incorrect Time- I needed to update my firmware, as suggested by users in the forum. The seller was able to send me an updated version at the time.
SWC- My resolution mentioned down below. I may change it back to CAN key and see if the CANBUS connection issue I had was the real culprit.
Random Power cycling- User error. I didn't realize I didn't plug the power cable completely into the unit.
A/C Display- I have @brettf to thank for this. I initially switched cables like he mentioned below, but found they didn't work THE FIRST TIME I did this, so I switched the cables back to their original [incorrect] positions. The second time around, ie. yesterday, I decided to try it again, but this time, I took into account my CANBUS settings. I changed the CANBUS controls to the last ACCORD_7(Chan........) setting and it finally worked for my system. So, now I understand what most users have been talking about in regards to the temperature only being in Celsius. If there's a fix for this that I may have missed, I'd highly appreciate it.
GPS signal- Lol unintentional user error this time, without realizing I even made a mistake. My unit wasn't labeled with which SMA connector was which for the GPS antenna or Bluetooth antenna, so I had accidentally switched them around during my initial installation. I decided to actually take a look at the diagram on AliBaba's seller page and lo and behold, they were indeed switched around. Previously, it would take over 5 minutes for a signal to be fixed and there was no guarantee it would be stable even on a clear day, but after the switch, the GPS signal is strong and fixes immediately to a signal now.
Bluetooth - Even though I'm not an audiophile, the music played from A2DP sounds even better following the aforementioned sma switch around. Tbh, I'm not tech savvy enough to understand how either the GPS or bluetooth have been working at all after all this time since my initial installation, but it works like it's supposed to now.
Mic- I ordered another external mic, so whenever it comes in, I'll try to update and see if there are any improvements with the quality, as I've realized my old mic sounded "distant" before when it was connected to my iSimple device.
Initial issue mentioned below:
Hello. I recently purchased this Seicane unit:
[Alibaba (**dot**) com/product/62132856562/10-1-Inch-Android-9-0.html?tracelog=null
I've been having the usual issues that I kind of anticipated with these Chinese head units *(ie. time was not set correctly when I initially installed it but I was able to fix it with an update, steering wheel controls no longer work(fixed), climate settings I press on the unit do not display on the screen but the A/C still works (fixed), just to name a few examples). But one problem I didn't anticipate was, my unit continuously reboots/powers off after I turn on the car and/or the screen may not come on unless I turn the ignition on and off again (fixed). With that being said, the Bluetooth cuts in and out as well and microphone quality is subpar at best, even after using an external mic from a previous isimple unit used with my original navigation unit.
So far, I honestly like this Seicane unit and I don't have buyer's remorse, but these little annoyances are starting to add up. Is there anyway I can fix these issues, especially the annoying rebooting? Thank you.
I recorded what I'm talking about earlier after work today:
youtu (**dot**) be/VvQnOBJGmWM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The chassis was touching bare wires for random **** I didn't have so it kept resetting. Took me an hour to figure it out. You don't need to spend money just get some tape and make sure all the wires are connected or covered

Ahardyg93 said:
The chassis was touching bare wires for random **** I didn't have so it kept resetting. Took me an hour to figure it out. You don't need to spend money just get some tape and make sure all the wires are connected or covered
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol 420 tho I was smoking too

hello friends, I was wondering if you can help me, my CANbus looks like its working and the steering wheel works too, however, the stereo reboots every 3-4 minutes... the thing is that if I connect something it gets frozen, and a couple of seconds it reboots, if I open an app it gets frozen, if I click on any button of the stereo it will work one or three times but then it gets frozen and reboots it again, I'm not able to listen to anything because the stereo reboots all the time many times... I tried with android 9 same error I updated to android 10 still the error, please can you help me with some ideas, I really believe it is a hardware issue and not software. regards

Question NaviFly 7862 steering wheel controls not working

Hi
I have purchased an Android HeadUnit for my Renault Megane 2 (2007) from AliExpress. Every function works except the steering wheel controls. The unit has the UIS7862 CPU @1.8Ghz, 6gb Ram and 128gb storage. I have installed the CanBox correctly and tried many CanBox settings in factory menu, but I cannot get the control app to enter learning mode. Does anyone have any idea? Maybe the built in key map application is at fault (com.syu.steer).

Did you find a solution to your problem yet?
I'm stuck at the exact same scenario, same unit. The support over at AliExpress mention to me to select "XP" for canbox settings. However, my canbus module is by Raise, hence I should be using the "RZC"
Also, my reverse cam doesnt work too.
Pls share your findings. Thank you!

I got the steering wheel keys to work with a custom controller made by an engineer in my country specifically for my car and my HeadUnit. The controller is connected directly to the wheel controls and the "key" wire on my HeadUnit. I had to disassembly the steering wheel base and route the cable around the original one. Now I can map every key to an action in the Key Learning app. For the backup camera, because I used a wireless kit, I couldn't use the "back" camera wire to trigger the HeadUnit to switch to it. The kit came with a receiver which only had power wires and a yellow RCA cable. I wired the receiver's power cables to the ACC power so that the receiver only powers on when the engine is running and I managed to map a button on the steering wheel to switch to the RCA input. Now when I want to use back up camera, I just need to press a button to see the image. The camera's transmitter is wired to the license plate bulb and I managed to fit it in the rear bumper.
This wasn't a "plug and play" experience that the Chinese seller promised, but overall I can say I am pretty happy with the end result. The audio quality is wayyy better than the stock HeadUnit. I didn't know that my stock speakers could get that loud and have so much bass. The DSP chip does it's job wonderfully. Also the radio reception is better than with the stock unit. The Android HeadUnit is fast and snappy. Apps open almost instantly and those 6gb of ram really help. I could compare the overall user experience with my OnePlus 7 phone. The unit also cold boots very quickly. The wifi reception is pretty poor. The unit shows 75% signal when my phone is in the car. It doesn't bother me because I put a Sim card in the unit and the mobile reception is as good as on my phone.

andrei-2200 said:
I got the steering wheel keys to work with a custom controller made by an engineer in my country specifically for my car and my HeadUnit. The controller is connected directly to the wheel controls and the "key" wire on my HeadUnit. I had to disassembly the steering wheel base and route the cable around the original one. Now I can map every key to an action in the Key Learning app. For the backup camera, because I used a wireless kit, I couldn't use the "back" camera wire to trigger the HeadUnit to switch to it. The kit came with a receiver which only had power wires and a yellow RCA cable. I wired the receiver's power cables to the ACC power so that the receiver only powers on when the engine is running and I managed to map a button on the steering wheel to switch to the RCA input. Now when I want to use back up camera, I just need to press a button to see the image. The camera's transmitter is wired to the license plate bulb and I managed to fit it in the rear bumper.
This wasn't a "plug and play" experience that the Chinese seller promised, but overall I can say I am pretty happy with the end result. The audio quality is wayyy better than the stock HeadUnit. I didn't know that my stock speakers could get that loud and have so much bass. The DSP chip does it's job wonderfully. Also the radio reception is better than with the stock unit. The Android HeadUnit is fast and snappy. Apps open almost instantly and those 6gb of ram really help. I could compare the overall user experience with my OnePlus 7 phone. The unit also cold boots very quickly. The wifi reception is pretty poor. The unit shows 75% signal when my phone is in the car. It doesn't bother me because I put a Sim card in the unit and the mobile reception is as good as on my phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!

MasK said:
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You connected the reverse wire?
Maybe this triggers the camera view of it doesn't work via the canbus.

Well, it does work via canbus, just doesnt switch to cam input automatically. Perhaps its some software settings.

MasK said:
Well, it does work via canbus, just doesnt switch to cam input automatically. Perhaps its some software settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all canbus provide the reverse signal. So maybe you have to provide the reverse signal on the separate input.

TorstenH said:
Not all canbus provide the reverse signal. So maybe you have to provide the reverse signal on the separate input.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I feel that the HU knows when I am referring (CANBUS might be working here), because the 12V turns on when Im in reverse. The only issue is the HU doesnt switch to the cam automatically. Looks to me like a SW issue. Still awaiting reply from manufacturer.
Also, I realised my backward/forward buttons are swapped. Why is it I can't re-learn them?

It may not be the same for the Navifly, but on my unit, G5 must get the proper voltage to "detect" the car has been put in reverse. I'm re-using my factory rear view camera and it's a 6.5V camera. However, I had to up the voltage to 8.6V so that G5 go that voltage...then the rear image showed up. I reused the car wiring and that's why I had to do this.
Check the voltage that G5 is getting. With a canbus module, I believe there is a wire from the canbus going to G5. If no voltage, make sure the pins are in properly.
FYI, if you are using a canbus and the steering wheel controls go through the canbus, then I believe that you cannot remap the keys.

The 12 V from the reverse wire are coming from your car (or in some cases from the canbox if the information gets transmitted from car to the box via canbus).
My suggestion is:
There is a separate reverse connection (usually a brown wire) on the head unit which triggers the radio to open the app which shows the image of the reverse cam.
You could even connect ACC or B+ to the reverse connection for testing purposes.

mastrv said:
It may not be the same for the Navifly, but on my unit, G5 must get the proper voltage to "detect" the car has been put in reverse. I'm re-using my factory rear view camera and it's a 6.5V camera. However, I had to up the voltage to 8.6V so that G5 go that voltage...then the rear image showed up. I reused the car wiring and that's why I had to do this.
Check the voltage that G5 is getting. With a canbus module, I believe there is a wire from the canbus going to G5. If no voltage, make sure the pins are in properly.
FYI, if you are using a canbus and the steering wheel controls go through the canbus, then I believe that you cannot remap the keys.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Absolutely correct.

Thanks guys, but there is no other brown wire for this.
I have a discussion abt this on this thread too:
Medeke/Navifly 7862
Hi, Recently received above unit for my 2006 RS4. everything is great (much better then the M400 I had before) apart from the radio. It seemed to work for the first 2 days, then worked intermittently and now not at all. I have tried...
forum.xda-developers.com
My "cam12V" wire is from the HU and it turns on when I am in reverse. Does this mean that this signal might be coming from my canbus? If so, is there another input back to the HU to trigger the screen to display the video feed? Only other wires I see are AMP related

Give 12V to pin 2 and check if the app to display the image of the cam will start:

TorstenH said:
Give 12V to pin 2 and check if the app to display the image of the cam will start:
View attachment 5374441
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes! It took me a while to figure this out.. mainly because I'll have to cut the wire (wasn't very confident in that)
and also.. the wires at Pin2 didn't make sense! They were more like Battery12V. I did cut and tested that.
So.. it turns out its a pink wire at pin3!
I realized this as I looked at my old Dasaita wires from the canbus connector. Since canbus is a standard, they should be comparable. That reverse wire went into Pin3.
I'm really surprised that Mekede and Navifly has this pin layout printed in all their listings.. but it's just wrong.
Thanks alot for the help!

That means it works now? I think you had to cut the ACC wire according to the manual because the "ignition on" information is provided by the can box.

TorstenH said:
That means it works now? I think you had to cut the ACC wire according to the manual because the "ignition on" information is provided by the can box.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it works now. Check out the images. The Pin2 (red) is probably ACC or batt 12V as there was no power when cut. I then cut the wire opposite it (pin10) in case I was looking at the connector wrongly. That turned out to be the headlight sensor.
After tracing the wire and comparing to my old Daisata, it turns out Pin3 (pink) is the reverse IN.

Excellent. Thanks for the clarification.
That means it makes sense to get the wiring diagram from the old radio of the car and compare it with the description of the new head unit.
In my case I had to completely rewire the harness (just if someone is interested):
Junsun V1 MTK8259 - the adapter battle (Kia Ceed Jd) / OEM camera usage / reference thread
I bought the Junsun V1 head unit but my Kia Ceed JD had a OEM nav unit which isn't directly compatible to Junsun V1. So I re-wired the wiring harness based on the pins description of my original OEM navigation unit. I'm only modifying the wiring...
forum.xda-developers.com

The only thing that I could compare to (between old and new HUs) is the canbus connectors. Rest cannot be compared as they're all different.
Oh well..
Anyways, the current Mekede I have has Radio chip NX6686. My old Dasaita PX5 also has a NX6686. However, the radio reception is absolutely trash in the new one. I dont listen to radio that often (I can resort to streaming radio) but my dad takes the car occasionally and he's already complained about it
Your experience on the harness rewiring is pretty intense!
Update: Turns out my Antenna connector was a tad loose and I had to do a re-connect. The radio reception is all good now

MasK said:
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you found correct canbus settings and connections .. i cant find anything about you sharing them

Question CC3 Skoda Superb 3 Model 2016

Hi at all.
I have recently built in a CC3 device.
And I have some questions about hardware and software. Maybe someone can help.
1: why is it, that the screen for air-conditioning, temperature etc. spontaneously pops up and don't dissappear by itself?
2: why is there only beep sounds from the parking distance control and no car symbol with colored waves (green to red)
3: why can't I choose YouTube as music widget, as described in teyes installation videos
4: can I change the widgets at all? New functions like whether forecast or GPS status instead of radio stations
Thanks in advance.
Greets, Sebastian

Hi i have similar problems with a skoda superb 3 2017, i am trying to find a good canbus configuration. Now i can see all car settings, cannot see call log, microphone is low, no graphics and beeps from rear sensors, volum from drive wheel is reversed.
I have tried both with rzc canbus and hi world canbus.
I have installed the aditional mic still same,
If i install the sim i can used only for data,
Please advise if i have to update it or anything to make it better, so far i want to uninstall it and use oem.

Hi Sebytech, I didn't found any solution so far. I am in contact with the support from AU and waiting for an answer. And still waiting for my MOST adapter. Have no sound at all.
But my vol. button is working.

No sound? Can you show me a few pics with what you have? And the settings of the canbus? I personally purchased another adapter and stereo sound inhave fromthe one purchased from au. My volume works from steering wheel is just upside down. Not sure if i need to do mcu update

Sebytech said:
Hi i have similar problems with a skoda superb 3 2017, i am trying to find a good canbus configuration. Now i can see all car settings, cannot see call log, microphone is low, no graphics and beeps from rear sensors, volum from drive wheel is reversed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Volume reverse is a setting: Factory -> Reversal Volume.
Same for reversal previous-next. Factory -> Reversal previous next
And if you have a CC3, why don't you read and watch the instructions and instruction videos: https://cc3.teyes.ru/en/index.html

Sebytech said:
No sound? Can you show me a few pics with what you have? And the settings of the canbus? I personally purchased another adapter and stereo sound inhave fromthe one purchased from au. My volume works from steering wheel is just upside down. Not sure if i need to do mcu update
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have no sound, because I have a built in canton sound system and digital amplifier. My quadlock connector has therefore no cables to each respective speaker. The sound is transfered to the amplifier by lightwire. When I ordered the CC3 I didn't know much about this and there was no hint on the order page. Due to a German skoda superb forum, someone told me about the need of an MOST adapter. Teyes has such an adapter in their store. I still waiting for it.
What else I am wondering about, is that the pins in my quadlock adapter is no respectively not the same as in the adapter from Teyes and some pins go nowhere. So I think, some functions are missing from the beginning.

I had a little research but, this last pic looks like a power right ? the harness, everything is the same as i have except that plug, anything else related to the amp ?

surfer63 said:
Volume reverse is a setting: Factory -> Reversal Volume.
Same for reversal previous-next. Factory -> Reversal previous next
And if you have a CC3, why don't you read and watch the instructions and instruction videos: https://cc3.teyes.ru/en/index.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, i will check that, i have check everything that is on the website, instructions are minimal, not everything is plug and play, any idea how to download the latest software? i have the latest mcu firmware but it always says invalid serial it.
thank you

SchaafBaeh said:
I have no sound, because I have a built in canton sound system and digital amplifier. My quadlock connector has therefore no cables to each respective speaker. The sound is transfered to the amplifier by lightwire. When I ordered the CC3 I didn't know much about this and there was no hint on the order page. Due to a German skoda superb forum, someone told me about the need of an MOST adapter. Teyes has such an adapter in their store. I still waiting for it.
What else I am wondering about, is that the pins in my quadlock adapter is no respectively not the same as in the adapter from Teyes and some pins go nowhere. So I think, some functions are missing from the beginning.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
apologize, did you meant optical fiber?

Sebytech said:
apologize, did you meant optical fiber?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, sorry. Your right. I wasn't so sure about the coorect term to translate it from German to English.

Sebytech said:
I had a little research but, this last pic looks like a power right ? the harness, everything is the same as i have except that plug, anything else related to the amp ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, this plug is the optical fiber plug. For this I purchased the Teyes Most 25 adapter. Hope, it will soon arrive.

SchaafBaeh said:
No, this plug is the optical fiber plug. For this I purchased the Teyes Most 25 adapter. Hope, it will soon arrive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes i had a look on the web for some adapters..not really much about them.
Any idea about how to download latest software ?
Have you tested yours with phone calls ?

Sebytech said:
Yes i had a look on the web for some adapters..not really much about them.
Any idea about how to download latest software ?
Have you tested yours with phone calls ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My sim card and wlan are working fine. So I opened the app Futo and checked for new versions (automatic updater) . After download and installation I opened teyes and downloaded the latest versions of all other apps.
Because I have no sound so far, I could no test it with sound. But as I received a phone call (phone was connected via BT) the CC3 showed me all needed buttons know for accepting/cancelling and ending a call.

I think i have a old version on mine, cannot find FOTA.

Can't you download it from their website?

SchaafBaeh said:
Can't you download it from their website?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have spent the last few days to find all kinds of info in regards canbus, settings, mic settings, bluetooth settings, anything on their website is useless. either they have sold me a diff unit.. don`t know yet..took me a month to make it work..bad company

Sebytech said:
I have spent the last few days to find all kinds of info in regards canbus, settings, mic settings, bluetooth settings, anything on their website is useless. either they have sold me a diff unit.. don`t know yet..took me a month to make it work..bad company
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, ok. That's bad. And the support named Dan can't help you?

SchaafBaeh said:
Oh, ok. That's bad. And the support named Dan can't help you?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not sure, i do not know him and takes days for support to answer, i am not sure about this forum if anybody will help, but be aware about the following issue you might have with yours. Bluetooth connection will show phone but no dial list on dash, on the cc3 while on call the dial conversation stays on top..you need external mic, apparently will not use the oem one ..hopefully you will have better luck than me, i am almost there to go back to oem and just leave it...sim with lte its only for data only no phone calls. what is the point to have just data ? would have been nice to connect with the canbus and show on dash as cc3 and be able to make phone calls. Also why have a mic on the unit ? mic has to be close to u and well protected..
update me when you have setup.

Ok. I will. Have a nice day anyway.

Sebytech said:
Thank you, i will check that, i have check everything that is on the website, instructions are minimal, not everything is plug and play, any idea how to download the latest software? i have the latest mcu firmware but it always says invalid serial it.
thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Email Teyes directly and ask them for support. They have your data.
Only try via Dan if you purchased via Dan.

USB Mic on MTC/D Units

Hello everyone
Wondering if somebody has tried to use an external USB Mic as the default Mic for their units. It is clear that using any electret mic (external or whatever) won't solve the audio/mic quality of the units. But I was thinking that a USB mic would solve the noise introduced by the unit board/circuit design, and even more, could be placed anywhere closer to the driver without a long audio cable (you use an USB cable extension)
Any experience on this?
@marchnz What has been your experience with mic and FYT units? Are they significatively better? Do they use the cheap electret?
Tanks !!!
Max

maxiauer said:
Hello everyone
Wondering if somebody has tried to use an external USB Mic as the default Mic for their units. It is clear that using any electret mic (external or whatever) won't solve the audio/mic quality of the units. But I was thinking that a USB mic would solve the noise introduced by the unit board/circuit design, and even more, could be placed anywhere closer to the driver without a long audio cable (you use an USB cable extension)
Any experience on this?
@marchnz What has been your experience with mic and FYT units? Are they significatively better? Do they use the cheap electret?
Tanks !!!
Max
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Much the same - must disconnect internal when using external.

So, answering my own question... NO, at least the MTCD PX5 boards are not compatible with USB Mics (Analog mics that have a Analog-to-digital converter and a proper USB interface)
I tested multiple USB-A manufacturers, and none of them worked, even if they worked on my Pixel 6 (with the proper cable / OTG)
Leaving this here as a reference in case somebody asks the same question on the future