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I picked this head unit up on ebay a while back and I've never gotten it to work, and I gave up trying to communicate with the seller. I've been trying to get this to work in my car - I replaced the existing Kenwood double DIN unit with this one. The Kenwood had been connected ot the factory amps using third party harnesses, triggering OEM Bose amps off the standard remote out wire of the Kenwood. Thing is, there's a blue 'remote out' wire on the SNT-210, as well as a brown "amplifier" wire. I have tried plugging in both of these wires, individually, to the receiving blue remote wire, to no avail. No audio out of this head unit. I can swap the Kenwood back in using it's existing wiring harness, and it's just fine - using factory amps. At first, the seller didn't even acknowledge that the 'amplifier' wire existed, and then finally told me to use that instead of 'remote out'. Well, as I mentioned, that didn't work.
I haven't even tried using the built in amplifier in the SNT-210 as the wiring simply doesn't exist in the car (due to oem amps). I suppose I could take this into a stereo shop locally and see if they can get output from it - I'm not even sure if the unit works, to be honest. I've been so far extremely underwhelmed with it's (lack of) performance. Not having functional audio just adds some ironic humor to the mix.
Does anyone actually have this in a car with the factory amplifiers?
I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
ADB100 said:
I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
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Click to collapse
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
sirleeofroy said:
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
ADB100 said:
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
sirleeofroy said:
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
ADB100 said:
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
sirleeofroy said:
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The audio is supplied to the amp via a quad-lock connector. So the audio from the rear of the unit connects to this dongle on one side, out the other side of the dongle are four female RCA's. These are connected to four male RCA's that connect to the quad-lock connector. There are two blue wires labelled 'AMP-CON' that have male/female push-fit connectors and these are connected together - I am guessing this is the 12v to switch the amp on? There is also another blue wire labelled 'ANT' with a push-fit connector. This is connected to a green wire coming out of the antenna facra cable.
It was working and nothing has been disturbed so I am fairly sure its not been wired up incorrectly. I think something has broken...
I'll check with a multimeter that I am getting 12v on the AMP-CON cable from the back of the amp first.
Andy
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
ADB100 said:
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
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Click to collapse
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
sirleeofroy said:
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for taking the time to help out. I don't think I described the cabling correctly. The AMP-CON and the ANT come from the same pin in the connector that plugs into the rear of the head unit (one wire comes out and then it splits into two and there is a bit of heat-shrink around the join. If I disconnect the ANT cable from the green wire that comes from the fakra adapter there is sound and the cable goes +10v. If I connect it back up there is a low 'thud' as it makes contact, the sound stops and the voltage drops to 0.something. It seems the fakra adapter is dragging the voltage down, hence why I think this adapter might be faulty.
Andy
I have the same issue now. We’re you able to resolve this?
I am also having this issue.. My HU turns on. Everything works perfectly... Just no sound. None at all. No factory amp. In a 2002 Silverado. I don't know if its the internal amp or what. Ideas?
Just wondered if anyone has any suggestions.
I use DAB a lot but I have to keep the screen brightness on the lowest setting otherwise it kills the signal to the dab the more I increase the brightness.
I’m using a KGL px5 octo core, I’ve updated to MTCE firmware and the latest kgl mcu and I have tried with GS firmware before but still the problem is there. I have changed factory settings for screen brightness etc but still no luck. Today I cut a usb cable open and tested it with a multimeter when the screen was on full brightness with DAB on and the voltage was perfect and didn’t decrease when I turned the brightness up. I’m using the modded zoulou app and I’m pretty sure this problem was there when i used the standard app.
I’m out of ideas of what it can be.
The only thing I haven’t changed is the little DAB box, could it be this?
Could it be a software bug or could there be some other sort of hardware fault?
Anyone any ideas????
The question is what DAB+ receiver you're using. I personally ordered this black aluminum box with 8-pin connector along with my head unit. It never worked properly. Ended up replacing it with a Joying DAB+ USB stick which simply worked out of the box.
It's just wild-guessing why your reception is depending on screen brightness. There might be some interferences with the DAB+ box itself or the cable where it's connected. So another (shielded) cable might help. If you also got some DAB+ box with proprietary connector I recommend you to go for an USB one. I just glued my one on top of the head unit using some velcro tape so I can also easily remove it if required.
SkyBeam2048 said:
The question is what DAB+ receiver you're using. I personally ordered this black aluminum box with 8-pin connector along with my head unit. It never worked properly. Ended up replacing it with a Joying DAB+ USB stick which simply worked out of the box.
It's just wild-guessing why your reception is depending on screen brightness. There might be some interferences with the DAB+ box itself or the cable where it's connected. So another (shielded) cable might help. If you also got some DAB+ box with proprietary connector I recommend you to go for an USB one. I just glued my one on top of the head unit using some velcro tape so I can also easily remove it if required.
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Click to collapse
The dab box I’m using was supplied by erisin it is the right one it is a little square shaped box with a mcx connection for antenna and a micro usb connection for power from the headunit. I did wonder if this could be faulty but I don’t see how screen brightness could affect this box.
I have noticed sometimes that when I pull the headunit out of the dash that with the screen brightness on full sometimes the dab will work but as soon as i push it back in the dash it goes off again and I have to put the brightness back down to minimum and then it will work fine again. Because of this i have thought it could be a loose usb connection as the usb’s Are on the back of the unit and there can’t be much space behind there when the unit is pushed back in but if that is the case I don’t understand why it works when putting the brightness back down to minimum. Having said that I have tried making the usb connections tighter by raising the prongs inside the usb slots and I have noticed that they only have prongs on the top or bottom inside the usb slots whereas on my laptop and phone charger they have prongs on the top and bottom inside the usb slot therefore giving a much much firmer fit. Maybe that is the problem but I don’t know and I can’t get it working and I’m out of ideas.
Be interesting to hear from other users that are using dab on a px5 especially if you are using it successfully with a similar setup to mine.
I’m using a KGL with the little plastic square dab box and a glass mount antenna(I don’t believe the antenna is the problem as the signal is brilliant when the brightness is down and I bought a new alpine antenna.)
I am afraid that likely nobody can tell you for sure. I guess your DAB+ receiver then is USB-based, meaning power AND data over USB. So it only has an USB port and an antenna port.
So there isn't much which gan go wrong here. Just make sure your antenna cable is firmly attached and not "bent" in too tight angles which could cause the antenna to malfunction.
My recommendation: Try all USB ports. Attach an USB extension cord to the USB port and route it out to your glove box or similar. Then connect the USB DAB+ receiver to the antenna in your glove box etc. Just to rule out a couple of things:
USB cable dos not get bent or connector gets lose (maybe your DAB+ receiver has an indicator LED when it's powered, if not, then you can check your USB while the headunit is firmly mounted by attaching an USB stick or similar)
Your antenna cable is not squeezed or bent when you push in the head unit
Your DAB receiver box does not pick up radio enterferences from the head unit by being too close to it (yes, those units are often insufficiently shielded, so just some distance sometimes helps!)
SkyBeam2048 said:
I am afraid that likely nobody can tell you for sure. I guess your DAB+ receiver then is USB-based, meaning power AND data over USB. So it only has an USB port and an antenna port.
So there isn't much which gan go wrong here. Just make sure your antenna cable is firmly attached and not "bent" in too tight angles which could cause the antenna to malfunction.
My recommendation: Try all USB ports. Attach an USB extension cord to the USB port and route it out to your glove box or similar. Then connect the USB DAB+ receiver to the antenna in your glove box etc. Just to rule out a couple of things:
USB cable dos not get bent or connector gets lose (maybe your DAB+ receiver has an indicator LED when it's powered, if not, then you can check your USB while the headunit is firmly mounted by attaching an USB stick or similar)
Your antenna cable is not squeezed or bent when you push in the head unit
Your DAB receiver box does not pick up radio enterferences from the head unit by being too close to it (yes, those units are often insufficiently shielded, so just some distance sometimes helps!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I’ve checked and changed cables etc, the cables are quite long though so there is a lot behind there which could get bent etc especially when the unit goes back. my feeling were that the usb cable were moving when im pushing the headunit back in but surely if this were the case then I’d struggle to use it all.
Your last point is interesting about moving the dab receiver box as I think I’ve always had it behind the headunit if I remember right so I might move that out of the way, but again why would screen brightness affect it?
ab1702 said:
but again why would screen brightness affect it?
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Click to collapse
Just a wild guess: It might affect reception by some interference (brightness is PWM-modulated pulsing). On the other hand it could also be related to power consumption. If voltages are not stabilized sufficiently it could affect USB voltage to an extent where your DAB receiver does not work any more, but then you would likely lose complete USB connectivity (and you could try to overcome this by using a powered USB hub).
My last advise to put the receiver away from the unit into the glove box war mainly to be able to debug the USB port and antenna connections while the unit is firmly put into the slot.
I don't have much more ideas to share currently
SkyBeam2048 said:
Just a wild guess: It might affect reception by some interference (brightness is PWM-modulated pulsing). On the other hand it could also be related to power consumption. If voltages are not stabilized sufficiently it could affect USB voltage to an extent where your DAB receiver does not work any more, but then you would likely lose complete USB connectivity (and you could try to overcome this by using a powered USB hub).
My last advise to put the receiver away from the unit into the glove box war mainly to be able to debug the USB port and antenna connections while the unit is firmly put into the slot.
I don't have much more ideas to share currently
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can’t say for sure but I don’t think the voltage is anything to do with it as I have cut the end off a usb cable and plugged it into the unit and then pushed it back in and tested it with a multimeter and it had 5.3 volts. I thought that when I turned the brightness up it could be taking power away from the usb but that doesn’t appear to be the case. I also tried a y shaped usb cable so it has double the amount of power so 10volts should be going through it. This didn’t make any difference to my problem but it does make the antenna perform better.
I think the next thing I’ll be trying is moving the dab receiver away from the headunit and see how i get on with that(although I do think I have already tried this). It definately appears to be an interference problem but from what is the question?!
Well I’m still scratching my head with this.
Tried moving the dab receiver away from the headunit last night and it makes little difference.
I’m thinking it has to be something to do with the usb connection although I still don’t understand why it is linked to the brightness of the screen.
I can take the headunit out of the dash and turn the brightness up full and it will lose all signal but then I could move the headunit a little while still out of the dash and it goes to full signal and will stay there but as soon as i go to push the unit back in the car it goes off again. The strange thing is if i then do put the unit back in the dash then lower the brightness to the lowest setting then signal is perfect again.
I’m ready for throwing it out to be honest!.!
Does anyone know anything about noise interference on USB ports?
I’m thinking this could potentially be the cause.
I’ve just been reading that electrical devices can cause high frequency noise interference to usb devices so I’m just guessing here that when I turn screen brightness up it is interfering and the dab receiver can’t cope with it.
Anyone for an opinion on this or know anything about it?
I’m going to buy a ferrite bead to put on the usb cable before the dab receiver and see if this helps.
ab1702 said:
Does anyone know anything about noise interference on USB ports?
I’m thinking this could potentially be the cause.
I’ve just been reading that electrical devices can cause high frequency noise interference to usb devices so I’m just guessing here that when I turn screen brightness up it is interfering and the dab receiver can’t cope with it.
Anyone for an opinion on this or know anything about it?
I’m going to buy a ferrite bead to put on the usb cable before the dab receiver and see if this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you then solved, because I also have the problems problems
Hi
Just wanted to ask advice here regarding my PX5 4gb oreo headunit. I appear to be having quite a bit of battery drain when away from the car. Ill try and give as much info as I can, but really my knowledge and understanding is very limited.
The unit I believe is manufactured by Hizpo (sticker on the side of unit) it has an XRC headunit on its latest firmware (2.89)
This is the second android headunit I have owned, the first being a Joying Sofia universal double din unit. I upgraded so I could have a unit designed to fit better in my car.
I have been finding every couple of months, if I do not go out in my car over the weekend, the battery is pretty much fully drained. Ive followed a couple of guides online and tested the parasitic draw with a multimeter. I appears to have a 0.25a drain when off, pulling fuses pointed to the radio circuit, and then removing the radio the drain went to pretty much to 0a.
The unit came supplied with the correct wiring harness for my 2011 honda crv.
I have then read a few posts about the headunits needing a constant 12v feed from the yellow wire, with the red wire being switched with the ignition. I have checked the volts from the harness, and when off, it is only the yellow wire that carries a 12v signal, so no faults with the harness. The wiring also matches the supplied wiring diagram supplied as a sticker on the unit.
This is the one thing that confuses me though. The wiring harness appears to be the opposite to my original Joying unit from last year. When I purchased the joying unit, I also purchased from a UK company a universal harness just in case I needed one, in the end I didn't, but both the Joying and this universal iso harness match in wiring configuration. This Hizpo unit, even though it is wired correctly as per their diagram, is the opposite to the other harnesses I have.
I have read comments from other posts about switching the red and yellow wires in similar situations as mine. Is this advised, is there a chance of breaking the unit if I try to do this?
Hope this all makes sense, apart from the battery drain the unit is perfect for my needs, annoyingly ive had this for 6 months now so probably can't really send back to the Aliexpress seller I purchased from.
Cheers
ciggybumly said:
Hi
Just wanted to ask advice here regarding my PX5 4gb oreo headunit. I appear to be having quite a bit of battery drain when away from the car. Ill try and give as much info as I can, but really my knowledge and understanding is very limited.
The unit I believe is manufactured by Hizpo (sticker on the side of unit) it has an XRC headunit on its latest firmware (2.89)
This is the second android headunit I have owned, the first being a Joying Sofia universal double din unit. I upgraded so I could have a unit designed to fit better in my car.
I have been finding every couple of months, if I do not go out in my car over the weekend, the battery is pretty much fully drained. Ive followed a couple of guides online and tested the parasitic draw with a multimeter. I appears to have a 0.25a drain when off, pulling fuses pointed to the radio circuit, and then removing the radio the drain went to pretty much to 0a.
The unit came supplied with the correct wiring harness for my 2011 honda crv.
I have then read a few posts about the headunits needing a constant 12v feed from the yellow wire, with the red wire being switched with the ignition. I have checked the volts from the harness, and when off, it is only the yellow wire that carries a 12v signal, so no faults with the harness. The wiring also matches the supplied wiring diagram supplied as a sticker on the unit.
This is the one thing that confuses me though. The wiring harness appears to be the opposite to my original Joying unit from last year. When I purchased the joying unit, I also purchased from a UK company a universal harness just in case I needed one, in the end I didn't, but both the Joying and this universal iso harness match in wiring configuration. This Hizpo unit, even though it is wired correctly as per their diagram, is the opposite to the other harnesses I have.
I have read comments from other posts about switching the red and yellow wires in similar situations as mine. Is this advised, is there a chance of breaking the unit if I try to do this?
Hope this all makes sense, apart from the battery drain the unit is perfect for my needs, annoyingly ive had this for 6 months now so probably can't really send back to the Aliexpress seller I purchased from.
Cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My joying the red and yellow we're backwards.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
ciggybumly said:
Hi
Just wanted to ask advice here regarding my PX5 4gb oreo headunit. I appear to be having quite a bit of battery drain when away from the car. Ill try and give as much info as I can, but really my knowledge and understanding is very limited.
The unit I believe is manufactured by Hizpo (sticker on the side of unit) it has an XRC headunit on its latest firmware (2.89)
This is the second android headunit I have owned, the first being a Joying Sofia universal double din unit. I upgraded so I could have a unit designed to fit better in my car.
I have been finding every couple of months, if I do not go out in my car over the weekend, the battery is pretty much fully drained. Ive followed a couple of guides online and tested the parasitic draw with a multimeter. I appears to have a 0.25a drain when off, pulling fuses pointed to the radio circuit, and then removing the radio the drain went to pretty much to 0a.
The unit came supplied with the correct wiring harness for my 2011 honda crv.
I have then read a few posts about the headunits needing a constant 12v feed from the yellow wire, with the red wire being switched with the ignition. I have checked the volts from the harness, and when off, it is only the yellow wire that carries a 12v signal, so no faults with the harness. The wiring also matches the supplied wiring diagram supplied as a sticker on the unit.
This is the one thing that confuses me though. The wiring harness appears to be the opposite to my original Joying unit from last year. When I purchased the joying unit, I also purchased from a UK company a universal harness just in case I needed one, in the end I didn't, but both the Joying and this universal iso harness match in wiring configuration. This Hizpo unit, even though it is wired correctly as per their diagram, is the opposite to the other harnesses I have.
I have read comments from other posts about switching the red and yellow wires in similar situations as mine. Is this advised, is there a chance of breaking the unit if I try to do this?
Hope this all makes sense, apart from the battery drain the unit is perfect for my needs, annoyingly ive had this for 6 months now so probably can't really send back to the Aliexpress seller I purchased from.
Cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also had this issue but found I had to disconnect a cable as part of my wiring harness that went into my mk6 Golf other wise it would not shut off with the accessories.
I don’t suppose you know which wire it was. As I say the iso harness matches the wiring diagram found on the head unit. All I’ve seen mention before is swapping the red and yellow wires but don’t want to do this and blow the unit!
ciggybumly said:
I don’t suppose you know which wire it was. As I say the iso harness matches the wiring diagram found on the head unit. All I’ve seen mention before is swapping the red and yellow wires but don’t want to do this and blow the unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The below link is the unit I purchased, if you scroll down around 3/4 of the page you will see a section outlining the dimensions and accessories.
Cable part 22 is what I need to disconnect to stop the battery drain.
Hope it might help
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/9-Andro...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Hello
I wanted to upgrade my 2017 Dasaita Android 6.0 PX5 unit with an PX6 Coreboard from M.I.C. Germany.
The Problem is that the PX6 Board has 4 more pins than the Mainboard
Will it Work..??
Hi, yes it will work. The motherboard is without DSP connectivity and the new PX6 CPU board has an extra 4 pins on the left (next to the HDMI connector if you place the board with the connector facing you and the CPU facing up) for DSP. The remaining contacts of these plates are the same, respectively 4 contacts remain hanging in the air. Audio will work but no DSP.
Thank you
I soldered the GPS cable on the PX6 and put it in the socket, screwed it down, plugged it in my car and: nothing!
First i thought "Great...i've got a dead Coreboard" but then i put some pressure on the connectors and the unit started to Boot.
But as soon i released the pressure the unit was going black.
I unscrewed it an noticed that it was very loose in there. So i pressed a pit harder on the connectors and it got as thight as the px5 was before. Screwed it down again, plugged it back in and it works now.
It didn't fit me because of one screw that holds the cooler, I had to remove it, it would be best to remove the nut in the motherboard, but I didn't want to do that, I was worried about other damage. Be careful when installing, the pins may be damaged. If the board does not fit well, then there will be a problem when the car shakes.
I was aware of this problem. I think ive read it somewhere here in the forum. I checked all screws and none of them are in they way. First i thought the 8.000 Crystal oscillator is to high...maybe he is... but it works now.
I also was thinking about car shaking and i want to secure the Board with glue.
Any recommendations...?
Someone had a bad contact so they coated the pins with tin, but you have to be skilled with solder. It is a pity that the screws are not closer to the pin to hold it better. I don't know how to stick it. Maybe make some pressure attached to the chassis of the device, there are no limits to imagination, just be careful not to damage something else. But maybe it will be good, test it in the car first.
I thought more on a rubber-like glue to hold it in place, so its easer to remove if i have to...
Or some silicone glue...
Edith:
I secured it now with high-temp-silicon glue... The same stuff is used for heat spreaders on CPUs...