Related
Sup all would anyone have the actual TRRS pinouts for the audio jack for the desire I would like to make a up a lead that will allow me to plug an ordinary pair of headphones in using a proper TRRS jack instead of a TRS jack. thanks. There are definately issues plugging in a headphone directly or maybe it is my unit faulty?
Edited, this topic will show you the best way to connect your headphones to your desire as some people will experiance problems with pluggin in normal 3.5 jack plug headphones, this is due to the desire using a trrs socket for the microphone instead of a trs socket that normal headphones use.
pretty sure it is:
tip - left audio
ring 1 (closest to tip) - right audio
ring 2 - data of some kind
shield - ground
Hope this helps
cheers for that, im having some peeps tell me that i can just plug in an ordinary pair of headphones into the phone without any ill effects, i am concerned that i will have a problem because headphones are trs jacks and the desire has the trrs 3.5 jack. can anyone confirm any details on this for me please
nah you can use a normal TRS 3.5mm jack with no problems. I guess that when you use a normal TRS jack then shield and ring 2 on the connector are both connected to shield on the jack so it adjusts the software accordingly. But yea, no problems.
cheers for that
edited, we have since discovered that this is not the case, please read the entire topic for the correct way to connect headphones to the desire.
standard 3,5 mm (TRS) headphones DO CAUSE ISSUES
Was about to resend my HTC Desire, because it randomly called, skipped music stopped the music, FM-radio freeze etc. from the moment I connected my high-end 3,5mm headphone (TRS type: 3 contacts).
No issues with the standard headset delivered with the HTC Desire (TRRS type: 3,5mm 4 contacts).
So, you might need a TRS -> TRRS adapter.
Anyone with other experiences???
Basically what I have found is that many of the normal headphones are not working correctly because it is a trrs socket that is used. To me this would mean that normal headphones shouldnt be used, I have tried various headphones but there are definately issues with them,
The main issue I was having was as you have said above and also the base wasnt right with them
I have since bought this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130384433476&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
which arrive today and when I am using this in conjunction with my headphones I now have the proper base to the set and NONE of the problems I was having when i was plugging them into the phone directly......... they just didnt sound right, now using griffin smarttalk this i can definately tell the difference now especially in the base, also this unit will lower the volume and allow you to make a call automatically with built in mike, clicking it twice doesnt skip the track suggested instead it will ring the last number dialled in the phone so a bonus actually to me
the straight adapters ie trrs to trs are very nearly the same price as this if not more expensive so i would recommend this all day long to you. At £9.75 delivered bargain m8, bought late evening on the 20th arrived this morning what more can i say, but if you are having issues it is definately in my eyes because of the difference in the trrs socket to the trs socket,
the base is fantastic on this phone now, before it was terrible, now i just need an equaliser to remove some of it
When you speak of "normal headphones", are you referring to simple 3.5 TRS headphones, or headphones with a mic ?
Cause if the majority of the headphones (without mic I mean) won't properly work with the Desire, it's a major flaw according to me.
I confirm: TRS (3 contacts, without mic) do not work...
...I tried 4 different 3,5mm stereo headsets (TRS type, 3 pole, without mic). NONE of them worked correctly (phenomenons as described above).
When you plug a 3 pole TRS headphone in the Desire 4 pole TRRS headphone output, a short circuit is generated between the first 2 internal contacts (seen from connector input: ground + control line).
I suspect that the Desire firmware cannot detect/handle this situation, and so it causes random actions (prev, next, call numbers, stop, play, ....)
I suspect that this issue could be solved with a firmware upgrade....
there is no way they would release hardware with a 3.5mm socket that you cant plug a 3.5mm jack into right? the firmware does detect when you use a TRS instead of a TRRS. You get a different icon on your notification bar for each of them. As ive said before my AKG's have worked perfectly so far and have shown none of the problems listed above.
This afternoon I quickly tested my Seinheiser PX100 headphones with a friend's desire and the Htc music player.
It worked flawlessly. Volume was good and it didn't play/pause/skipped tracks.
As I said it was a really quick test so I can't say for sure that everything's was okay.
Nonetheless apparently a lot of people experienced problems with numerous headphones. To me it's really a shame you can't even plug ANY 3.5mm jack headphones with the desire ...
I hope a software update could fix this.
I also had this problem when connecting my Desire to my car radio using an standard 3.5mm AUX cable. Will this cable solve my problem or will my car radio not be able to recognize a 4 pole cable?
http://cgi.ebay.nl/3-5mm-Male-TRRS-...erAccess_RL&hash=item5d28c530c1#ht_1252wt_939
I think this might be an issue of certain cables not making a full connection due to the shape of the case surrounding the socket. I had no problems with my headphones, sound was good and loud enough although I could see how it might not be loud enough for some.
I did start having issues when I plugged the aux lead in my car into the phone. The lead has a large shroud that obstructed the plug from being plugged all the way in. This gave the same problems as described in other posts, skipping tracks and also crashing the music software at one point.
I replaced the lead with another that had a better fit and the problems went away but I did notice when I leaned against the lead while it was playing music in my car it started skipping track again.
I wonder what HTC have to say about this....
DHel01 said:
I also had this problem when connecting my Desire to my car radio using an standard 3.5mm AUX cable. Will this cable solve my problem or will my car radio not be able to recognize a 4 pole cable?
http://cgi.ebay.nl/3-5mm-Male-TRRS-...erAccess_RL&hash=item5d28c530c1#ht_1252wt_939
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I solved those problems with this lead- i dont think the one your showing will work for you
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220593400305
they come from china etc however only 5 days to arrive from ordering.
and I now enjoy trouble free music. I also have ordered the Griffin Smart Talk so i can listen to my headphones and be able to answer the phone as well however I didnt want to use it for plugging into a car stereo etc etc so i wanted a straight lead conversion.
Just a quick warning the first lead i ordered from this person was faulty, however i had also ordered 3 other leads from the same person as an after thought which were all perfect.. as they are only pennies it is worth ordering one or two spare for redundancy purposes. I decided to order 3 as backups more in case i broke one and the person stopped selling them etc etc
These leads will allow you to connect the htc to any other source including external speakers which didnt work when putting them in normally but did work when i used this cable in conjunction with it.
this cable is a trrs to trs jack plug and is used to convert a 4 pin socket to a 3 pin socket jack plug.
I've been using a pair of JVC Gummy Air on my Desire since I got it, not a single problem.
Re: TRRS Pinouts for Desire
I've used some headphones, and 2 different aux connector for the cars and all 3 work absolutely perfectly. No issues at all.
Sent from my HTC Desire
I have been using my Yuin PK3 earbuds for music since I got my Desire and it has been working without any problems.
TheOriginalKi said:
I've been using a pair of JVC Gummy Air on my Desire since I got it, not a single problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh yeah and I've also hooked it into the tv via a standard audio cable!
Not sure what you guys are talking about but my AIAIAI headset works fine with the Desire
Mic working too!
aiaiai.dk/headsets/tracks-headsets/tracks-headset-black.html
^those
Sennheiser PXC 250 with NR, no problems
I want to listen to music in my car via bluetooth A2DP. My car's stereo system only has AUX in. So, I am looking for a device to pair with my phone and plug into the aux port for my car's stereo. I don't really care about hands free calling. That'd be a plus, but not necessary.
I've been doing some research and found two that look reasonable.
BlackBerry Remote Stereo Bluetooth Gateway (would require yet another charger)
Kensington LiquidAUX Bluetooth Car Kit
Does anyone here have any experience with these or any recommendations?
If I were you, I would get something like this:
http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs...10551&langId=-1&productId=8198552921665801276
The reason being that it gets pretty good reviews and you would be able to also use it outside of the car if you wanted to.
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Ericsson...1DCM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1288590977&sr=8-1
I am probably going to buy this thing soon, as I have been eying it for a few days now.
If you don't want to charge there are plenty of wire in kits. Check out parrot. They might have a kit that fit s what you want.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk
I bought a LiquidAUX and would advise staying away from it unless you like sub par sound quality. The volume is about 75% compared to being plugged directly into my aux port and the quality is like streaming a low quality radio station. For calls I would say it gets the job done "acceptably" but music requires much better fidelity than you'll get from it.
I use the LiquidAUX. I use it to listen to podcasts and have no problem with the sound quality. I did have to buy a ground loop noise filter.
I have the blackberry stero gateway and I use it in my living room, it works fantastic for music.
Just as a follow-up to my original post, I ended up deciding on Satechi Bluetooth Hands-free Car Stereo Fm Transmitter for iPhone 4, 3Gs & 3G and Bluetooth Stereo A2DP supported Devices (available on amazon).
The Satechi device works great! It pairs with the phone quickly and the sound quality is great. This device is exactly what I was looking for. It plugs into the cigarette lighter and has AUX out which I plugged into the stereo in my car. I was a bit worried about noise from the car's engine, but that wasn't a problem. The volume is very slightly lower than plugging the phone directly into the AUX in on my car's stereo. Realistically, that may just be my ears playing tricks on me. It also has a USB port which puts out 5V @ 1000mA for charging USB devices (my Epic).
I didn't use the FM transmitter or the call feature since the only thing I really wanted was the A2DP to AUX.
davidb_ said:
I want to listen to music in my car via bluetooth A2DP. My car's stereo system only has AUX in. So, I am looking for a device to pair with my phone and plug into the aux port for my car's stereo. I don't really care about hands free calling. That'd be a plus, but not necessary.
I've been doing some research and found two that look reasonable.
BlackBerry Remote Stereo Bluetooth Gateway (would require yet another charger)
Kensington LiquidAUX Bluetooth Car Kit
Does anyone here have any experience with these or any recommendations?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What kind of car? I know GM and several others have aftermarket adapters that plug into the factory harness that allow the addition of A2DP in an almost factory style addon.
done12many2 said:
What kind of car? I know GM and several others have aftermarket adapters that plug into the factory harness that allow the addition of A2DP in an almost factory style addon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Subaru. I'm actually planning on switching out the factory stereo for a carputer-type thing in the spring. This is just hold me out until nicer weather.
davidb_, why are you opposed to using the Aux port? Seems like a simpler yet more robust solution.
http://www.scosche.com/products/productID/1919
I was just about to post something about that Scosche one. After doing a bit of searching, it seems to be rated fairly well. I'm considering buying one for my wife's car, so if anyone has any experience with it, I'm curious to hear about some more first hand experience.
I have now used both the Kensington LiquidAUX and the Scosche BTAXS motorMOUTH II and I am wishing there was something that had the best of both. Here are my thoughts on both:
Kensington LiquidAUX
I really like the overall feature set of this solution. The remote is handy to skip past ads in podcasts and to jump back a few seconds when the navigation interrupts what I'm listening to. I also like that it is powered.
What I didn't like is that I had to get a ground loop noise filter (although once I did, the sound was perfect.) Also, there were some connection issues if I was listening with the car off and then started the car due to the interruption of power to the device. The phone never seemed to reconnect in that situation. I would have to turn off the LiquidAUX and turn it back on and wait for it to reconnect. I liked that it has an extra USB port so I could charge the phone if it was low on juice without a separate power adapter but it only charges at 500 mA so really it just kept the phone from dying without really adding extra charge during the drive. The one huge drawback to the LiquidAUX was that people found it difficult to hear me during calls. I usually had to switch the call to speakerphone to have any success. I think the location of the microphone (due to the location of my power port) was the cause of this issue. This is what led me to purchase the Scosche BTAXS.
Scosche BTAXS
There were several things that impressed me with the Scosche BTAXS. I loved the fact that there was no mess of cables. The position of the microphone was much better because it was up at the AUX port of the head unit so I never had any complaints on calls. The sound was great and since it wasn't drawing power from the car I no longer needed the noise filter. Also, Scosche provided many great accessories in the box that other companies might have sold separately.
What I don't like about the Scosche BTAXS is the terrible battery life. I drive about 40 min to work. I cannot use the Scosche BTAXS on both my drive to and from work and leave it in the car overnight and expect it to work the next day. If I drive around on my lunch break, it may not last all day, even when I turn it off when not in use. Scosche does provide a charging cable and car adapter so I can power it during use but that takes away the coolness of not having any cables. It also introduces a little bit of ground loop noise. If I was to run it through the filter I would not be able to position the microphone where I would get the best call quality.
In conclusion, neither of these devices is perfect. The call quality issue of the LiquidAUX is a big drawback that I wish there was a way to overcome. Since there isn’t, I will most likely stick with the Scosche and just make sure I recharge it whenever I am not in the car.
I got this from Buy.com for $20 a few months back. Hopefully you'll find a good deal like that again.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Li..._1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1293177894&sr=1-1
Any update on products for this. I am looking to do this in my 09 jetta through the Aux in, and none of the solutions seem that stellar. Just wanted to see if anyone had found something recently that works great.
I keep looking for a simple BT solution that can give me the best of both worlds. I'm surprised there is no simple BT receiver that can sit behind the dash plugged in to power and aux with a mic out and corded dual mic I can route myself. Liquidaux and motormouth II come close yet miss the mark. A quality mic on the kensington would make for a perfect setup. A remote mic on the motormouth II would be great. Makes zero sense at this stage of the game.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
nice thing
http://www.belkin.com/au/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=530115
Hey guys,
Got a HTC Sensation, would like something which does
1. charge while in car
2. fm transmitter (I don't have bluetooth or aux in my car)
3. a holder in the car so I can use gps easier
I found this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-5mm-FM...613695?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item1c1d79eb7f
Any thoughts??
Any other suggestions?
I'm in Australia.
Many thanks!
Since that one is a universal dock, it seems to charge from the bottom since most phones do. The problem with that is the Sensation's charge port is on the side.
Also, I'm very very picky about audio and FM transmitters nearly always produce static or some kind of white noise.
My solution/reccomendation for cars without an AUX port is to pick up one of these bad boys: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-cassette-Adapter-3-5mm-plug-/110650779646?pt=AU_Electronics_Portable_Audio_Accessories&hash=item19c34ce7fe
It's a cassette tape that provides you with an aux cable.
Then to cover your mounting needs, just get something like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Mount-Holder-Charger-HTC-Sensation-Incredible-S-/190560511133?pt=AU_MobilePhoneAccessories&hash=item2c5e4aa49d
And it even comes with a car charger.
If you are worried about wires and want this to be a stationary installation, use black zip ties.
If you have any questions or want other suggestions, let me know.
Thanks for the reply constrabus.
Problem is...I don't have a cassette player in the car.
I got something similar off of amazon a few years ago for my MT3G. The FM transmitter worked just fine. I now use it with my Sensation 4G, but my newer truck has an aux. jack so I don't use the FM anymore. The one I got plugs directly into the lighter jack and then I run a USB cable from the side into my phone. I have had it for several years without a problem. Go for it.
I have a fm transmitter with a 3.5 jack I plug it in and it doesn't go in all the way and only plays the left side. Same thing on my EVO but on my transform it goes all the way in and plays both sides. Any ideas on how to fix it.
Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using xda premium
I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
ADB100 said:
I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
sirleeofroy said:
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
ADB100 said:
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
sirleeofroy said:
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
ADB100 said:
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
sirleeofroy said:
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The audio is supplied to the amp via a quad-lock connector. So the audio from the rear of the unit connects to this dongle on one side, out the other side of the dongle are four female RCA's. These are connected to four male RCA's that connect to the quad-lock connector. There are two blue wires labelled 'AMP-CON' that have male/female push-fit connectors and these are connected together - I am guessing this is the 12v to switch the amp on? There is also another blue wire labelled 'ANT' with a push-fit connector. This is connected to a green wire coming out of the antenna facra cable.
It was working and nothing has been disturbed so I am fairly sure its not been wired up incorrectly. I think something has broken...
I'll check with a multimeter that I am getting 12v on the AMP-CON cable from the back of the amp first.
Andy
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
ADB100 said:
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
sirleeofroy said:
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for taking the time to help out. I don't think I described the cabling correctly. The AMP-CON and the ANT come from the same pin in the connector that plugs into the rear of the head unit (one wire comes out and then it splits into two and there is a bit of heat-shrink around the join. If I disconnect the ANT cable from the green wire that comes from the fakra adapter there is sound and the cable goes +10v. If I connect it back up there is a low 'thud' as it makes contact, the sound stops and the voltage drops to 0.something. It seems the fakra adapter is dragging the voltage down, hence why I think this adapter might be faulty.
Andy
I have the same issue now. We’re you able to resolve this?
I am also having this issue.. My HU turns on. Everything works perfectly... Just no sound. None at all. No factory amp. In a 2002 Silverado. I don't know if its the internal amp or what. Ideas?
My headphone adapter from Google does not consistently work. What's the deal?
I plug it in and usually gives me the notification for different USB options: charge, supply power, transfer files, transfer photos, MIDI
But sound just plays through my speakers or calls come through the ear of the phone.
Any ideas? Is there some secret to it that I'm not getting?
Is this the included adaptor or one that you acquired elsewhere?
It is the adapter that came with the phone from Google.
Sounds like a defective cable. What I'm unsure of is USB-C was suppose to be a new "standard" but Google changed pins or something preventing other adapters from working. Really piss poor. Just sent back my second after market adapter that did advertise pixel2 compliant. Nope.
MLT2004 said:
What I'm unsure of is USB-C was suppose to be a new "standard" but Google changed pins or something preventing other adapters from working. Really piss poor. Just sent back my second after market adapter that did advertise pixel2 compliant. Nope.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't say which after market adapter you got.
Google is using the standard but requires DAC which meets the standard. If you get a cheap adapter, the chances are they don't have the necessary DAC chip in them or a cheap version which doesn't work.
One of many articles about it.
https://www.androidauthority.com/3-5mm-audio-usb-type-c-701507/
Google will have them back in stock shortly for $9 w/free shipping.
https://store.google.com/us/product/usb_c_headphone_adapter
Another solution would be to get a BT to 3mm device which allows you to use BT on your phone to any 3.5mm plug devices. I have been using a several of these for a couple years to hook up my TV and other devices which use the 3.5mm jack to use with my really good BT headphones.
Yes, I can confirm that the HTC adapter works with the Pixel 2. However, aftermarket adapters designed for Motorola phones won't because Moto aren't following the USB-C digital standard there (and they key is "digital", which is why, as the post above says, the adapter needs a DAC in it).
I have the same problem and apparently I am not the only one.
I heard that people got 2 or 3 replacements and the problem persists. It is probably software related.
I will see if with the Moshi splitter I have the same problem.
Has anyone fixed this? I'm on my second pixel 2xl and have 3 Google adaptors that work intermittently
Spotty is too kind
The designed in difficulty Google lovingly put into the Pixel 2 surrounding that oh so special USB-C socket, that lonely and inadequate solitary physical output port, to get music to output through there is ridiculously difficult to next to impossible. To Google's credit they have _tried_ to help when I've called - repeatedly - in the past 6 months but it's just simply not designed to send music out that sole output socket. Which is stupefying trying to grasp how those brilliant Mtn. Viewers could have thought such a design a 'good idea.' All previous versions of android allowed me to 'choose' output to fill-in-the-blank - device speaker, b-t, or the cable/port. With the design push err shove toward b-t headphones or devices that then send your signal to your sound system/speakers they evidently just decided no one would want to send music through the cable. That fact is, as I have indicated, perplexing not to mention maddening. It's also a glaring design flaw. The short of it is it will only work if it's plugged into some device that I guess is factory designed to work with Oreo. Then and only then will the Pixel 'see' that resource as an option to play the signal - and it works automatically. Physically choosing to send your music out that USB-C port & out your cable is not an option, according to Google tech support who I finally called after months of frustration and finally giving up on finding resolution online on my own.
Maybe there's something I'm not understanding, but it's certainly not true that music output only works "if it is plugged into some device that is factory designed to work with Oreo". Mine plays music fine through a HTC adapter that predates Oreo by about a year, or a Dragonfly Red portable USB DAC/amp that predates Oreo by a couple of years and isn't even USB-C. And conversely the Google adapter, which I infer you are having problems with, surely was designed for Oreo since it was released with phones that have never had any earlier version of Android.
Now if you are saying that the OS doesn't allow you to send sound out through the socket when it doesn't identify a device capable of handling it as connected, well OK. But would a previous version of Android allow you to route audio through the USB socket if there was nothing connected to it (or nothing more than an OTG connector)? I never tried that (for obvious reasons) so don't know. But I do know it also didn't allow you to route audio out of the headphone jack unless there was something in that making the correct electrical connections. So it seems to me that the main difference is that this is purely digital audio out, so a digital handshake replaces the electrical connection. But as I say, maybe I'm missing something you are trying to say?
I seriously got fed up with the USB-C to 3.5mm jack playing music out loud in my office is no bueno. I decided to buy a FiiO BTR1, it works while charging so ill just leave it plugged in at work.
Update to 2020 January 7. I just bought a new headphone for my Pixel 2 and it won't recognise it with the dongle I got with the phone. I read it was a problem known by Google in 2017 and a fix would happen on a software update. I've also heard masses saying the cheap dongle won't work and Google saying they would replace it. I've also tried a high quality Apple dongle and it didn't work. I'm on Android 10.