Hello
I wanted to upgrade my 2017 Dasaita Android 6.0 PX5 unit with an PX6 Coreboard from M.I.C. Germany.
The Problem is that the PX6 Board has 4 more pins than the Mainboard
Will it Work..??
Hi, yes it will work. The motherboard is without DSP connectivity and the new PX6 CPU board has an extra 4 pins on the left (next to the HDMI connector if you place the board with the connector facing you and the CPU facing up) for DSP. The remaining contacts of these plates are the same, respectively 4 contacts remain hanging in the air. Audio will work but no DSP.
Thank you
I soldered the GPS cable on the PX6 and put it in the socket, screwed it down, plugged it in my car and: nothing!
First i thought "Great...i've got a dead Coreboard" but then i put some pressure on the connectors and the unit started to Boot.
But as soon i released the pressure the unit was going black.
I unscrewed it an noticed that it was very loose in there. So i pressed a pit harder on the connectors and it got as thight as the px5 was before. Screwed it down again, plugged it back in and it works now.
It didn't fit me because of one screw that holds the cooler, I had to remove it, it would be best to remove the nut in the motherboard, but I didn't want to do that, I was worried about other damage. Be careful when installing, the pins may be damaged. If the board does not fit well, then there will be a problem when the car shakes.
I was aware of this problem. I think ive read it somewhere here in the forum. I checked all screws and none of them are in they way. First i thought the 8.000 Crystal oscillator is to high...maybe he is... but it works now.
I also was thinking about car shaking and i want to secure the Board with glue.
Any recommendations...?
Someone had a bad contact so they coated the pins with tin, but you have to be skilled with solder. It is a pity that the screws are not closer to the pin to hold it better. I don't know how to stick it. Maybe make some pressure attached to the chassis of the device, there are no limits to imagination, just be careful not to damage something else. But maybe it will be good, test it in the car first.
I thought more on a rubber-like glue to hold it in place, so its easer to remove if i have to...
Or some silicone glue...
Edith:
I secured it now with high-temp-silicon glue... The same stuff is used for heat spreaders on CPUs...
Related
I took my TF700 apart last night as the digitizer was not working following a drop and assumed that a cable had come loose.
Anyway, made a mistake while doing it.
I could not disconnect the cables between the LCD and digitizer and the connectors.
I since realise that there is a small white bar that you flip up. I presume I have "broken" the connectors or something as the tablet works fine when plugged into HDMI, but I cannot use the digitizer and the screen does not come on.
Any suggestions? Most that I have found have suggested "throw away and buy again as spares too much", but wondered if anyone had a bright idea.
I have found why the digitizer was not working, there is corrosion over the SD card and around the top connector to the digitizer nearest the SD card slot. It looks like mositure/drip got into the slot and may have shorted something? I have cleaned off the surface debris as much as can.
Anyway this would not impact the LCD which still displayed (until connector concern.)
Following that, is anyone getting rid of their TF700 and would be interested in selling it at a sensible price?
Thanks
If you didn't pull that white bar off or break it, it could possibly be that you have not properly inserted the ribbon cable and fastened the connector. I would open it again and check this before I did anything else.
Most of them work like this:
Open it by pulling at each end of the white bar until it moves foward a little, then gently lift it to about 45 degeres and the cable slides out with a slight tug. Putting the cable back in is the reverse. That bar has to be loose and at about 45 degrees to get the cable back inside the connector. Make sure the end of the cable is in straight and close the connector. Cable should be tight and not come out if you gently tug it.
The OP here may be willing to sell a likely brick:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2769818
flhthemi said:
If you didn't pull that white bar off or break it, it could possibly be that you have not properly inserted the ribbon cable and fastened the connector. I would open it again and check this before I did anything else.
Most of them work like this:
Open it by pulling at each end of the white bar until it moves foward a little, then gently lift it to about 45 degeres and the cable slides out with a slight tug. Putting the cable back in is the reverse. That bar has to be loose and at about 45 degrees to get the cable back inside the connector. Make sure the end of the cable is in straight and close the connector. Cable should be tight and not come out if you gently tug it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the suggestions, I have tried that, but none of the 3 connectors (2 for digitizer, 1 for LCD) respond. I connected it to the HDMI, but cannot see the screen respondin to my finger (maybe that is broken also ha ha)
Is it more likely the connector, or cable is broken? I suspect connector pins to be honest. Abit small for me to see though.
Digitizer or Ribbon Cable or ZIF socket ??? How to tell ???
dilfred said:
Thank you for the suggestions, I have tried that, but none of the 3 connectors (2 for digitizer, 1 for LCD) respond. I connected it to the HDMI, but cannot see the screen respondin to my finger (maybe that is broken also ha ha)
Is it more likely the connector, or cable is broken? I suspect connector pins to be honest. Abit small for me to see though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Greetings!
Just curious how this problem worked out? I too have a TF700 with a working screen but no digitizer. Some time back during my first battery replacement (another story) I tried (we ARE a curious species you know) to open the ZIF socket for the digitizer cable (has twin, gold ribbons) and accidentally flipped the wrong side... needless to say it did NOT flip open. The black plastic top of the socket broke off exposing a little of the ribbon. Everything still worked fine so I counted myself lucky and closed her up and all was good.
Unfortunately I'm never willing to leave sleeping dogs alone and I attempted to replace the 2nd dud battery with yet another one (don't ever trust those "Brand New" eBay batteries)! This time I must have accidentally pulled on a ribbon cable a bit too much. When I closed up the tablet I ended up with a tablet just like yours... everything works great... just not with my finger! I opened it up AGAIN... to replace the original battery... you never can tell you know... while I was in there I tried reseating the digitizer cables (both sockets)... no luck.
So... now what... I'm hearing that some folks had their digitizers fail after about a year anyway... mine is two years old... so my digitizer COULD have just failed... or it COULD have been my messing with the ribbons and/or ZIF connectors. How to tell ??? Is there ANYTHING one can do short of ordering a replacement ZIF socket PC board ($25 eBay) and / or ribbon? With a two year old device I'm reluctant to spend much on repair... ASUS wanted $184 to fix it... and buying an eBay digitizer or ZIF board on the blind chance that one or the other is the problem seems a bit risky.... to say nothing about the chance of mucking up the heat separation of the LCD/digitizer! What's a digital explorer to do???
The only thing I was unable to determine was where does the forked golden digitizer ribbon cable GO on the glass end. Does THAT end ever come loose? How does it attach to the digitizer? Anything I could "fix" on that end?
Since changing settings in developer options did nothing for me I checked all the terminals on the black hub soldered to the board with a small precision screwdriver with were all solidly in place so I spliced apart the white battery connector housing to remove completely (this is where the Carson Pro LED Magnavisor from Amazon was a must from Amazon). I then proceeded to attach and solder each battery connector to it's terminal then solder each one in place. the solder job isn't the prettiest but it works, then I cut small pieces of plastic to put in place between the 6 leads, rescrewed the battery down, put the tape back on the connection, fired it up and not one flash or flicker! I'm on 18% battery right now which before would have been going off like the 4th of July. The only thing that perplexes me is that before the fix and booting into recovery, not one flash or flicker but booting back into system and was a flickerfest. I can only guess recovery runs on only a lead or 2.
tjmethod said:
Since changing settings in developer options did nothing for me I checked all the terminals on the black hub soldered to the board with a small precision screwdriver with were all solidly in place so I spliced apart the white battery connector housing to remove completely (this is where the Carson Pro LED Magnavisor from Amazon was a must from Amazon). I then proceeded to attach and solder each battery connector to it's terminal then solder each one in place. the solder job isn't the prettiest but it works, then I cut small pieces of plastic to put in place between the 6 leads, rescrewed the battery down, put the tape back on the connection, fired it up and not one flash or flicker! I'm on 18% battery right now which before would have been going off like the 4th of July. The only thing that perplexes me is that before the fix and booting into recovery, not one flash or flicker but booting back into system and was a flickerfest. I can only guess recovery runs on only a lead or 2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the same issue, and yesterday I just unplugged and replugged the battery connector which solved my issue.
But I believe this is temporarly and that I would do a better repair if I do solder.
Thanks for providing pictures.
Ya unfortunately the wire connectors inside the white plastic connector aren't making a tight pinch on the terminals and there is no way to close the distance without getting the white connector out of the way. You could remove the white plastic connector and pinch each one on with needle nose pliers but you might as well solder them on if you go that far. This is why people are having problems replacement tablets- its faulty battery connectors…
luffy092 said:
I got the same issue, and yesterday I just unplugged and replugged the battery connector which solved my issue.
But I believe this is temporarly and that I would do a better repair if I do solder.
Thanks for providing pictures.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tjmethod said:
Ya unfortunately the wire connectors inside the white plastic connector aren't making a tight pinch on the terminals and there is no way to close the distance without getting the white connector out of the way. You could remove the white plastic connector and pinch each one on with needle nose pliers but you might as well solder them on if you go that far. This is why people are having problems replacement tablets- its faulty battery connectors…
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The battery connector with 6 wires only a minor source of flickering screen. You don't need to cut and solder it to the male connector.
The loose connector can be fixed by pushing the opening tip closer like this
Samsung fix it by adding the silver conductive glue like this
The major problem is from the male connector soldered to the mainboard. From my professional experiences, 90 % from cracked male connector ( black with 6 pins and soldered to mainboard ) , only 10% causing by loose female battery connector ( white with 6 wires ) : Samsung just simply use a conductive glue.
Trust me, I have fixed not a few but hundreds of them with this problem.
Great pictures! Well it looks like I am one of the lucky ones- glad I was able to even solder those wires on to the male connector terminals. I did check them- they were solid- I wouldn't have been able to have done it without the Carson LED Magnavisor- its got 4 different interchangeable power lenses. I dont think my tip would have been small enough to heat up the solder on the male connector termials- but I totally believe you most are cracked- glad I havent had a problem since. I have like 5 note tablets and the xe7000t1a windows slate in fact almost everything I own is Samsung including the 17" i7 chronos notebook I'm typing this on. So do you do this sort of thing in the line of business?
Beut said:
The battery connector with 6 wires only a minor source of flickering screen. You don't need to cut and solder it to the male connector.
The loose connector can be fixed by pushing the opening tip closer like this
Samsung fix it by adding the silver conductive glue like this
The major problem is from the male connector soldered to the mainboard. From my professional experiences, 90 % from cracked male connector ( black with 6 pins and soldered to mainboard ) , only 10% causing by loose female battery connector ( white with 6 wires ) : Samsung just simply use a conductive glue.
Trust me, I have fixed not a few but hundreds of them with this problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tjmethod said:
Great pictures! Well it looks like I am one of the lucky ones- glad I was able to even solder those wires on to the male connector terminals. I did check them- they were solid- I wouldn't have been able to have done it without the Carson LED Magnavisor- its got 4 different interchangeable power lenses. I dont think my tip would have been small enough to heat up the solder on the male connector termials- but I totally believe you most are cracked- glad I havent had a problem since. I have like 5 note tablets and the xe7000t1a windows slate in fact almost everything I own is Samsung including the 17" i7 chronos notebook I'm typing this on. So do you do this sort of thing in the line of business?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used to work at Samsung Repair Center, fixed more than thousands of them
That wouldnt be Intelisol in Fort Worth Tx?
QUOTE=Beut;65498191]I used to work at Samsung Repair Center, fixed more than thousands of them[/QUOTE]
tjmethod said:
Since changing settings in developer options did nothing for me I checked all the terminals on the black hub soldered to the board with a small precision screwdriver with were all solidly in place so I spliced apart the white battery connector housing to remove completely (this is where the Carson Pro LED Magnavisor from Amazon was a must from Amazon). I then proceeded to attach and solder each battery connector to it's terminal then solder each one in place. the solder job isn't the prettiest but it works, then I cut small pieces of plastic to put in place between the 6 leads, rescrewed the battery down, put the tape back on the connection, fired it up and not one flash or flicker! I'm on 18% battery right now which before would have been going off like the 4th of July. The only thing that perplexes me is that before the fix and booting into recovery, not one flash or flicker but booting back into system and was a flickerfest. I can only guess recovery runs on only a lead or 2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was asking is there any video which shows steps by step on how to do the solder because i want to do that myself
I would check all posts/ threads/ responses from 'Beut'- he's a former samsumg repairman who's repaired thousands of these
[QQUOTE=chumvi;65509217]I was asking is there any video which shows steps by step on how to do the solder because i want to do that myself[/QUOTE]
chumvi said:
I was asking is there any video which shows steps by step on how to do the solder because i want to do that myself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Videos won't help if you don't have experiences in soldering. There are many components close to these six pins, without experience and proper solder tip you will cause solder bridges on mainboard. I need a 10x microscope to see clearly what I am doing. You should bring it to a professional , they won't charge much for a 5 to 10 minute re work.
This is the original battery connector with hairline cracks
Then a re soldered battery connector which has more solders added to secure the connections
An experienced tech will routine re work on these two battery connectors first, even the screen is not flickering, because sooner or later it will come back with this problem.
Hi guys,
I didn't want to post in an old thread, but I'm still having trouble with my Note. I took it to a "Pro" to solder the connectors down because the whole thing came off the board somehow. The "Pro" was pretty useless. He left solder all over the place and the tablet was shorting when I picked it up. So I took it back and the photo shows what I ended up with after 4 attempts at fixing the flickering. At this point I've decided to dump the "Pro" and solder the wires directly to the circuit pads. Only one problem - Solder will not stick to the pads no matter what I do. I've tried heating the pads with the iron before applying the solder but it wont stick. I've cleaned the site with alcohol and took off the sticky residue left by the "Pro".
Can anyone see an issue in the photo which might be causing the problem?
Thanks for the help.
---------- Post added at 01:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:30 AM ----------
Hi guys,
I didn't want to post in an old thread, but I'm still having trouble with my Note. I took it to a "Pro" to solder the connectors down because the whole thing came off the board somehow. The "Pro" was pretty useless. He left solder all over the place and the tablet was shorting when I picked it up. So I took it back and the photo shows what I ended up with after 4 attempts at fixing the flickering. At this point I've decided to dump the "Pro" and solder the wires directly to the circuit pads. Only one problem - Solder will not stick to the pads no matter what I do. I've tried heating the pads with the iron before applying the solder but it wont stick. I've cleaned the site with alcohol and took off the sticky residue left by the "Pro".
Can anyone see an issue in the photo which might be causing the problem?
Thanks for the help.
Hi from Spain, i not see the flickering on use, but whem was power off and i chargue apears a flash every 3 or 4 seconds... All time¿Can be the same problem?
Thanks
Hi all,
It's been two years I have been using my Z5 Compact, and the MicroUSB connector is hardly usable now.
I of course tried several cables.
It is very difficult to charge the telephone. I don't know exactly what the problem is. I tried cleaning with a dry air bomb (for keyboards etc.), but to no avail. Seems like a bad contact.
Is it possible to use electrical parts liquid cleaner to properly clean the USB contacts?
Anybody having the same experience?
MF
I had the same problem, usb cable didn't fit in entirely.
Culprit was a piece from the inside of my jeans pocket was pushed deep inside my usb port. It was pretty much stuck in there but once I got it out the problems where solved and I switched to magnetic usb cable to prevent this.
I got it out using very tiny pliers and a magnifying loupe.
Hope this helps..
Regards
Mine is going to die sometime, soon, too! i already bought a new one on ebay, laying ready to be installed here! In a couple of days i´ll take a hair dryer and then i´ll peel of the back cover and replace that broken connector
update: 17th of june!
Just wanted to tell you guys, it worked! I just replaced the USB Connector with the one i bought on Ebay, price was around 4 Euro or so, not much i think
It was rather easy, as i already own the needed tools (a very very small philips screw driver, and a tool to go underneath the back cover and a hairdryer)
took about 20 minutes or less!
Just use the hairddryer to heat up the back cover, then use the special tool (or a thin knife?) to loose the back cover and peel it off
then you have to remove 2 screws on the lower part, then you can remove some sort of a "bar" over the usb connector! next you have to lift the "motherboard" on the lower part (yes it moves down to the usb connector) but first disconnect the usb connector! then pull out the broken usb, shove the new one in and do all the above in reverse order!
Trying to install this unit and it keeps blowing both the car fuse for stereo and stereo fuse everytime I plug in the cords any suggestions as been though a few fuses came with factory wiring harness and everything is connected correctly
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNyiujC
If it's blowing the fuse in the back of the unit, I suspect a defective unit.
Uninstall fuse.apk
Yep must be a defective unit now to try and get seller to help
I have noticed that these FYT units do not have robust ESD (Electro Static Discharge) protection inside.
My Joying unit became damaged after I removed and reinstalled it a few times. The canbus adapter blew a mosfet causing the radio to be always on.
The GPS and one of the 4G antenna connectors seem to be shorted internally where they did work initially.
No sign of any transient suppressors on the main board or in the canbus adapter.
This is bad because a car interior is a very high risk enviroment for ESD damage. :-(
Hi
i have a big problem. I have an unit PX5 with rockchip 8 core with 4gb ram and 32 of space.
Its a radio for renault megane 2 with amplifier and android 10.
My radio was getting very hot, so I removed the dvd and installed a fan.
Sometimes the fan made noise, so I decided to install a switch, to cut the power to the fan when I needed it.
The fan is 5v and I connect it to the usb of the radio (5v)
But when I was installing the switch, I must have made some mistake, and I started to smell burning.
Quickly disconnect everything.
To my surprise, everything worked correctly: audio, bluetooth, screen, etc.
But the wifi, no. If I activate it, it deactivates automactly.
I have tried wipe cache and factory reset.
I think the usb doesn't work either.
Is it possible that wifi and usb share power?
I thought not, but there's just that scorch all over the motherboard.
I would like to know if you can tell me how the Wi-Fi is powered, I don't care about USB.
I am attaching photos of the wreckage. Flex cable its damaged but screen works perfect. Wifi chipset i think thats okay, but see the photos please.
Thanks for your help!
Looks like a power regulator blew. Might be possible to replace it but with that much char I'm not sure about the health of the board. To get it off the board you'd need a heat gun with a small nozzle, but you could end up causing more damage to the board.
V0latyle said:
Looks like a power regulator blew. Might be possible to replace it but with that much char I'm not sure about the health of the board. To get it off the board you'd need a heat gun with a small nozzle, but you could end up causing more damage to the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can fix that with a soldering iron. A couple ways to do it. If you can get in with a small pair of cutters...
Carefully cut the leads* then use a soldering iron at 720F and quickly remove it what's left , one at a time. A lot of times I'll heat it and tap it off. Too much heat and/or for long will lift the pad, you have to be fast.
You can somewhat easily hand solder it on if you have the skillset/tools after you get the solder pads fairly level.
There be more damage including traces.
If you never did it, this isn't the place to learn.
Otherwise you could probably replace it but you might need to do some bridging to repair missing pads or traces.
*small precision cutters, you must not pull up or torque it sideways etc or you'll damage the pad. So you push downward slightly as you cut.