Hi
i have a big problem. I have an unit PX5 with rockchip 8 core with 4gb ram and 32 of space.
Its a radio for renault megane 2 with amplifier and android 10.
My radio was getting very hot, so I removed the dvd and installed a fan.
Sometimes the fan made noise, so I decided to install a switch, to cut the power to the fan when I needed it.
The fan is 5v and I connect it to the usb of the radio (5v)
But when I was installing the switch, I must have made some mistake, and I started to smell burning.
Quickly disconnect everything.
To my surprise, everything worked correctly: audio, bluetooth, screen, etc.
But the wifi, no. If I activate it, it deactivates automactly.
I have tried wipe cache and factory reset.
I think the usb doesn't work either.
Is it possible that wifi and usb share power?
I thought not, but there's just that scorch all over the motherboard.
I would like to know if you can tell me how the Wi-Fi is powered, I don't care about USB.
I am attaching photos of the wreckage. Flex cable its damaged but screen works perfect. Wifi chipset i think thats okay, but see the photos please.
Thanks for your help!
Looks like a power regulator blew. Might be possible to replace it but with that much char I'm not sure about the health of the board. To get it off the board you'd need a heat gun with a small nozzle, but you could end up causing more damage to the board.
V0latyle said:
Looks like a power regulator blew. Might be possible to replace it but with that much char I'm not sure about the health of the board. To get it off the board you'd need a heat gun with a small nozzle, but you could end up causing more damage to the board.
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Click to collapse
You can fix that with a soldering iron. A couple ways to do it. If you can get in with a small pair of cutters...
Carefully cut the leads* then use a soldering iron at 720F and quickly remove it what's left , one at a time. A lot of times I'll heat it and tap it off. Too much heat and/or for long will lift the pad, you have to be fast.
You can somewhat easily hand solder it on if you have the skillset/tools after you get the solder pads fairly level.
There be more damage including traces.
If you never did it, this isn't the place to learn.
Otherwise you could probably replace it but you might need to do some bridging to repair missing pads or traces.
*small precision cutters, you must not pull up or torque it sideways etc or you'll damage the pad. So you push downward slightly as you cut.
Related
Hi friends
I am having an handset(Tilt) with flex cable problem, but wondering if flex cable can solve my phones problem where it is doing the following:
-Not accepting the SIM.
-phone is getting hanged any times, speed is also very pathetic.
-keypad is pressed on its own.
-Phone is not accepting any charger but charging with PC USB.
These are some of the major problems, I wish if someone could help me out in knowing what work does a flex cable plays, coz the technician is charging so much to change the flex cable & giving me no assurance as to what problems will be solved. I would like to know from some of those technicians here who knows something about hardware. Mike I am talking about you specially.
I would like to write this in our XDA encyclopedia given the case I get proper knowledge about it.
Looking forward to answers.
This is quite difficult to answer without testing. The SIM not being recognised will in itself slow down the phone or even create a full blown crash.
It's not stated what flex cable we are talking about. Flex Cables are just multi wire connections between circuit boards. Phones often have 3, 4 or more flex cables. For example between the the physical keypad and the motherboard or the d-pad and the LCD screen or between screen and motherboard etc etc.
It IS possible a flex cable can get damaged. This normally happens in phones with a slide out keyboard where the flex-cable has to roll back and forth as the keyboard slides in and out. However, such a cable would not I think change the charging behaviour of the phone.
It charges on PC connection but not charger connection. To me that normally indicates a USB port connection problem - bent pin in the slot, possibly even crossed pins or a cracked or dry solder joint between the usb port and the motherboard.
Another thing to consider is whether all the battery contacts are making good contact with the phone. Here again the multiple connections between battery and motherboard can become dry or cracked leading to erratic or underpowered connections.
The keypad being pressed on it's own can again be caused by different things:
1
It could be a faulty or loosley connected flex cable
2
Pressure being put on the digitizer screen by something under the bezel or just a damaged digitizer layer
3
A key that is not releasing from the keyboard properly (is it always the same key or group of keys?)
4
Moisture at many different places inside the phone, including keyboard, d-pad etc. Even when dried out, the residue or oxidisation can continue to cause problems.
So, I would not rule out a flex-cable problem, but it might not be the only fault. Unfortunately then, the technician you spoke to may be correct and it is not possible to guarantee it will solve all problems. Having said that, I would want to say to the technician that I am not going to pay for a new flex if it does not solve any of the problems.
This is where it becomes difficult to decide whether to go for paid for repair or to attempt the job yourself.
Mike
Hi guys. This is gonna sound awkward. I'm having issues in my personal life and I was talking on whatsapp with brother when I got angry and threw my nexus. the screen is broken like colors and stuff and lines so I tries to turn the phone off by touching where the power off button appears on screen butI couldn't.
since I was angry I removed the back cover and cut the golden wire at the bottom point where it turn. I've tried turning it on by holding the cut ends but no luck. tried charger too but nope. All I wanna do is get into recovery somehow (TWRP) and dump my internal storage.
Thank you.
After some thought about your description.... I wonder if you have actually cut the main ribbon cable from the microphone/speakers/USB assembly this is the one that runs down the side of your phone. your best bet will be to purchase another cable assembly.. since you are dealing with a multi conductor ribbon cable.
I really doubt that you will be able to repair and re-connect the cable without some pretty highly skilled soldering ability.
The battery cable is very short and comes directly out of the battery itself... it is not likely that you actually cut it but did cut the main circuit cable. Too Bad, but this will be a real problem for a repair.
no joy... but you might want to investigate a reputable repair shop.
paultbear said:
After some thought about your description.... I wonder if you have actually cut the main ribbon cable from the microphone/speakers/USB assembly this is the one that runs down the side of your phone. your best bet will be to purchase another cable assembly.. since you are dealing with a multi conductor ribbon cable.
I really doubt that you will be able to repair and re-connect the cable without some pretty highly skilled soldering ability.
The battery cable is very short and comes directly out of the battery itself... it is not likely that you actually cut it but did cut the main circuit cable. Too Bad, but this will be a real problem for a repair.
no joy... but you might want to investigate a reputable repair shop.
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Click to collapse
Thanks so much for replying. Yes indeed I cut the ribbon cable. I'm in no position of buying a new one. I guess I'm gonna take it to someone with high soldering skill. Before that I'm gonna try tape too
Xami said:
Thanks so much for replying. Yes indeed I cut the ribbon cable. I'm in no position of buying a new one. I guess I'm gonna take it to someone with high soldering skill. Before that I'm gonna try tape too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Question: if this ribbon isn't battery wire then why the phone doesn't start
main connection cable ( do NOT cut)
Xami said:
Question: if this ribbon isn't battery wire then why the phone doesn't start
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Click to collapse
That ribbon cable is the one that interconnects the working boards in your phone, Microphone, Speakers, buttons. Unlike the battery cable you probably won't be able to fix it... it is pretty much a replacement only part.
this part is called -- LG Nexus 5 D820 D821 Charging Port Flex Cable Dock Connector USB Port With Mic Microphone Flex Cable Repair Part (amazon.com)
you will have to source a supplier close to you... but the good news is that it is relatively inexpensive... Ebay has it listed for $10USD or so.
not trying to be the bearer of bad tidings... but I've spent 20 odd years repairing computers and associated devices. It is always best if you don't cut ribbon cables.
Since changing settings in developer options did nothing for me I checked all the terminals on the black hub soldered to the board with a small precision screwdriver with were all solidly in place so I spliced apart the white battery connector housing to remove completely (this is where the Carson Pro LED Magnavisor from Amazon was a must from Amazon). I then proceeded to attach and solder each battery connector to it's terminal then solder each one in place. the solder job isn't the prettiest but it works, then I cut small pieces of plastic to put in place between the 6 leads, rescrewed the battery down, put the tape back on the connection, fired it up and not one flash or flicker! I'm on 18% battery right now which before would have been going off like the 4th of July. The only thing that perplexes me is that before the fix and booting into recovery, not one flash or flicker but booting back into system and was a flickerfest. I can only guess recovery runs on only a lead or 2.
tjmethod said:
Since changing settings in developer options did nothing for me I checked all the terminals on the black hub soldered to the board with a small precision screwdriver with were all solidly in place so I spliced apart the white battery connector housing to remove completely (this is where the Carson Pro LED Magnavisor from Amazon was a must from Amazon). I then proceeded to attach and solder each battery connector to it's terminal then solder each one in place. the solder job isn't the prettiest but it works, then I cut small pieces of plastic to put in place between the 6 leads, rescrewed the battery down, put the tape back on the connection, fired it up and not one flash or flicker! I'm on 18% battery right now which before would have been going off like the 4th of July. The only thing that perplexes me is that before the fix and booting into recovery, not one flash or flicker but booting back into system and was a flickerfest. I can only guess recovery runs on only a lead or 2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the same issue, and yesterday I just unplugged and replugged the battery connector which solved my issue.
But I believe this is temporarly and that I would do a better repair if I do solder.
Thanks for providing pictures.
Ya unfortunately the wire connectors inside the white plastic connector aren't making a tight pinch on the terminals and there is no way to close the distance without getting the white connector out of the way. You could remove the white plastic connector and pinch each one on with needle nose pliers but you might as well solder them on if you go that far. This is why people are having problems replacement tablets- its faulty battery connectors…
luffy092 said:
I got the same issue, and yesterday I just unplugged and replugged the battery connector which solved my issue.
But I believe this is temporarly and that I would do a better repair if I do solder.
Thanks for providing pictures.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tjmethod said:
Ya unfortunately the wire connectors inside the white plastic connector aren't making a tight pinch on the terminals and there is no way to close the distance without getting the white connector out of the way. You could remove the white plastic connector and pinch each one on with needle nose pliers but you might as well solder them on if you go that far. This is why people are having problems replacement tablets- its faulty battery connectors…
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Click to collapse
The battery connector with 6 wires only a minor source of flickering screen. You don't need to cut and solder it to the male connector.
The loose connector can be fixed by pushing the opening tip closer like this
Samsung fix it by adding the silver conductive glue like this
The major problem is from the male connector soldered to the mainboard. From my professional experiences, 90 % from cracked male connector ( black with 6 pins and soldered to mainboard ) , only 10% causing by loose female battery connector ( white with 6 wires ) : Samsung just simply use a conductive glue.
Trust me, I have fixed not a few but hundreds of them with this problem.
Great pictures! Well it looks like I am one of the lucky ones- glad I was able to even solder those wires on to the male connector terminals. I did check them- they were solid- I wouldn't have been able to have done it without the Carson LED Magnavisor- its got 4 different interchangeable power lenses. I dont think my tip would have been small enough to heat up the solder on the male connector termials- but I totally believe you most are cracked- glad I havent had a problem since. I have like 5 note tablets and the xe7000t1a windows slate in fact almost everything I own is Samsung including the 17" i7 chronos notebook I'm typing this on. So do you do this sort of thing in the line of business?
Beut said:
The battery connector with 6 wires only a minor source of flickering screen. You don't need to cut and solder it to the male connector.
The loose connector can be fixed by pushing the opening tip closer like this
Samsung fix it by adding the silver conductive glue like this
The major problem is from the male connector soldered to the mainboard. From my professional experiences, 90 % from cracked male connector ( black with 6 pins and soldered to mainboard ) , only 10% causing by loose female battery connector ( white with 6 wires ) : Samsung just simply use a conductive glue.
Trust me, I have fixed not a few but hundreds of them with this problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tjmethod said:
Great pictures! Well it looks like I am one of the lucky ones- glad I was able to even solder those wires on to the male connector terminals. I did check them- they were solid- I wouldn't have been able to have done it without the Carson LED Magnavisor- its got 4 different interchangeable power lenses. I dont think my tip would have been small enough to heat up the solder on the male connector termials- but I totally believe you most are cracked- glad I havent had a problem since. I have like 5 note tablets and the xe7000t1a windows slate in fact almost everything I own is Samsung including the 17" i7 chronos notebook I'm typing this on. So do you do this sort of thing in the line of business?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used to work at Samsung Repair Center, fixed more than thousands of them
That wouldnt be Intelisol in Fort Worth Tx?
QUOTE=Beut;65498191]I used to work at Samsung Repair Center, fixed more than thousands of them[/QUOTE]
tjmethod said:
Since changing settings in developer options did nothing for me I checked all the terminals on the black hub soldered to the board with a small precision screwdriver with were all solidly in place so I spliced apart the white battery connector housing to remove completely (this is where the Carson Pro LED Magnavisor from Amazon was a must from Amazon). I then proceeded to attach and solder each battery connector to it's terminal then solder each one in place. the solder job isn't the prettiest but it works, then I cut small pieces of plastic to put in place between the 6 leads, rescrewed the battery down, put the tape back on the connection, fired it up and not one flash or flicker! I'm on 18% battery right now which before would have been going off like the 4th of July. The only thing that perplexes me is that before the fix and booting into recovery, not one flash or flicker but booting back into system and was a flickerfest. I can only guess recovery runs on only a lead or 2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was asking is there any video which shows steps by step on how to do the solder because i want to do that myself
I would check all posts/ threads/ responses from 'Beut'- he's a former samsumg repairman who's repaired thousands of these
[QQUOTE=chumvi;65509217]I was asking is there any video which shows steps by step on how to do the solder because i want to do that myself[/QUOTE]
chumvi said:
I was asking is there any video which shows steps by step on how to do the solder because i want to do that myself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Videos won't help if you don't have experiences in soldering. There are many components close to these six pins, without experience and proper solder tip you will cause solder bridges on mainboard. I need a 10x microscope to see clearly what I am doing. You should bring it to a professional , they won't charge much for a 5 to 10 minute re work.
This is the original battery connector with hairline cracks
Then a re soldered battery connector which has more solders added to secure the connections
An experienced tech will routine re work on these two battery connectors first, even the screen is not flickering, because sooner or later it will come back with this problem.
Hi guys,
I didn't want to post in an old thread, but I'm still having trouble with my Note. I took it to a "Pro" to solder the connectors down because the whole thing came off the board somehow. The "Pro" was pretty useless. He left solder all over the place and the tablet was shorting when I picked it up. So I took it back and the photo shows what I ended up with after 4 attempts at fixing the flickering. At this point I've decided to dump the "Pro" and solder the wires directly to the circuit pads. Only one problem - Solder will not stick to the pads no matter what I do. I've tried heating the pads with the iron before applying the solder but it wont stick. I've cleaned the site with alcohol and took off the sticky residue left by the "Pro".
Can anyone see an issue in the photo which might be causing the problem?
Thanks for the help.
---------- Post added at 01:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:30 AM ----------
Hi guys,
I didn't want to post in an old thread, but I'm still having trouble with my Note. I took it to a "Pro" to solder the connectors down because the whole thing came off the board somehow. The "Pro" was pretty useless. He left solder all over the place and the tablet was shorting when I picked it up. So I took it back and the photo shows what I ended up with after 4 attempts at fixing the flickering. At this point I've decided to dump the "Pro" and solder the wires directly to the circuit pads. Only one problem - Solder will not stick to the pads no matter what I do. I've tried heating the pads with the iron before applying the solder but it wont stick. I've cleaned the site with alcohol and took off the sticky residue left by the "Pro".
Can anyone see an issue in the photo which might be causing the problem?
Thanks for the help.
Hi from Spain, i not see the flickering on use, but whem was power off and i chargue apears a flash every 3 or 4 seconds... All time¿Can be the same problem?
Thanks
Just wondered if anyone has any suggestions.
I use DAB a lot but I have to keep the screen brightness on the lowest setting otherwise it kills the signal to the dab the more I increase the brightness.
I’m using a KGL px5 octo core, I’ve updated to MTCE firmware and the latest kgl mcu and I have tried with GS firmware before but still the problem is there. I have changed factory settings for screen brightness etc but still no luck. Today I cut a usb cable open and tested it with a multimeter when the screen was on full brightness with DAB on and the voltage was perfect and didn’t decrease when I turned the brightness up. I’m using the modded zoulou app and I’m pretty sure this problem was there when i used the standard app.
I’m out of ideas of what it can be.
The only thing I haven’t changed is the little DAB box, could it be this?
Could it be a software bug or could there be some other sort of hardware fault?
Anyone any ideas????
The question is what DAB+ receiver you're using. I personally ordered this black aluminum box with 8-pin connector along with my head unit. It never worked properly. Ended up replacing it with a Joying DAB+ USB stick which simply worked out of the box.
It's just wild-guessing why your reception is depending on screen brightness. There might be some interferences with the DAB+ box itself or the cable where it's connected. So another (shielded) cable might help. If you also got some DAB+ box with proprietary connector I recommend you to go for an USB one. I just glued my one on top of the head unit using some velcro tape so I can also easily remove it if required.
SkyBeam2048 said:
The question is what DAB+ receiver you're using. I personally ordered this black aluminum box with 8-pin connector along with my head unit. It never worked properly. Ended up replacing it with a Joying DAB+ USB stick which simply worked out of the box.
It's just wild-guessing why your reception is depending on screen brightness. There might be some interferences with the DAB+ box itself or the cable where it's connected. So another (shielded) cable might help. If you also got some DAB+ box with proprietary connector I recommend you to go for an USB one. I just glued my one on top of the head unit using some velcro tape so I can also easily remove it if required.
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Click to collapse
The dab box I’m using was supplied by erisin it is the right one it is a little square shaped box with a mcx connection for antenna and a micro usb connection for power from the headunit. I did wonder if this could be faulty but I don’t see how screen brightness could affect this box.
I have noticed sometimes that when I pull the headunit out of the dash that with the screen brightness on full sometimes the dab will work but as soon as i push it back in the dash it goes off again and I have to put the brightness back down to minimum and then it will work fine again. Because of this i have thought it could be a loose usb connection as the usb’s Are on the back of the unit and there can’t be much space behind there when the unit is pushed back in but if that is the case I don’t understand why it works when putting the brightness back down to minimum. Having said that I have tried making the usb connections tighter by raising the prongs inside the usb slots and I have noticed that they only have prongs on the top or bottom inside the usb slots whereas on my laptop and phone charger they have prongs on the top and bottom inside the usb slot therefore giving a much much firmer fit. Maybe that is the problem but I don’t know and I can’t get it working and I’m out of ideas.
Be interesting to hear from other users that are using dab on a px5 especially if you are using it successfully with a similar setup to mine.
I’m using a KGL with the little plastic square dab box and a glass mount antenna(I don’t believe the antenna is the problem as the signal is brilliant when the brightness is down and I bought a new alpine antenna.)
I am afraid that likely nobody can tell you for sure. I guess your DAB+ receiver then is USB-based, meaning power AND data over USB. So it only has an USB port and an antenna port.
So there isn't much which gan go wrong here. Just make sure your antenna cable is firmly attached and not "bent" in too tight angles which could cause the antenna to malfunction.
My recommendation: Try all USB ports. Attach an USB extension cord to the USB port and route it out to your glove box or similar. Then connect the USB DAB+ receiver to the antenna in your glove box etc. Just to rule out a couple of things:
USB cable dos not get bent or connector gets lose (maybe your DAB+ receiver has an indicator LED when it's powered, if not, then you can check your USB while the headunit is firmly mounted by attaching an USB stick or similar)
Your antenna cable is not squeezed or bent when you push in the head unit
Your DAB receiver box does not pick up radio enterferences from the head unit by being too close to it (yes, those units are often insufficiently shielded, so just some distance sometimes helps!)
SkyBeam2048 said:
I am afraid that likely nobody can tell you for sure. I guess your DAB+ receiver then is USB-based, meaning power AND data over USB. So it only has an USB port and an antenna port.
So there isn't much which gan go wrong here. Just make sure your antenna cable is firmly attached and not "bent" in too tight angles which could cause the antenna to malfunction.
My recommendation: Try all USB ports. Attach an USB extension cord to the USB port and route it out to your glove box or similar. Then connect the USB DAB+ receiver to the antenna in your glove box etc. Just to rule out a couple of things:
USB cable dos not get bent or connector gets lose (maybe your DAB+ receiver has an indicator LED when it's powered, if not, then you can check your USB while the headunit is firmly mounted by attaching an USB stick or similar)
Your antenna cable is not squeezed or bent when you push in the head unit
Your DAB receiver box does not pick up radio enterferences from the head unit by being too close to it (yes, those units are often insufficiently shielded, so just some distance sometimes helps!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I’ve checked and changed cables etc, the cables are quite long though so there is a lot behind there which could get bent etc especially when the unit goes back. my feeling were that the usb cable were moving when im pushing the headunit back in but surely if this were the case then I’d struggle to use it all.
Your last point is interesting about moving the dab receiver box as I think I’ve always had it behind the headunit if I remember right so I might move that out of the way, but again why would screen brightness affect it?
ab1702 said:
but again why would screen brightness affect it?
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Click to collapse
Just a wild guess: It might affect reception by some interference (brightness is PWM-modulated pulsing). On the other hand it could also be related to power consumption. If voltages are not stabilized sufficiently it could affect USB voltage to an extent where your DAB receiver does not work any more, but then you would likely lose complete USB connectivity (and you could try to overcome this by using a powered USB hub).
My last advise to put the receiver away from the unit into the glove box war mainly to be able to debug the USB port and antenna connections while the unit is firmly put into the slot.
I don't have much more ideas to share currently
SkyBeam2048 said:
Just a wild guess: It might affect reception by some interference (brightness is PWM-modulated pulsing). On the other hand it could also be related to power consumption. If voltages are not stabilized sufficiently it could affect USB voltage to an extent where your DAB receiver does not work any more, but then you would likely lose complete USB connectivity (and you could try to overcome this by using a powered USB hub).
My last advise to put the receiver away from the unit into the glove box war mainly to be able to debug the USB port and antenna connections while the unit is firmly put into the slot.
I don't have much more ideas to share currently
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can’t say for sure but I don’t think the voltage is anything to do with it as I have cut the end off a usb cable and plugged it into the unit and then pushed it back in and tested it with a multimeter and it had 5.3 volts. I thought that when I turned the brightness up it could be taking power away from the usb but that doesn’t appear to be the case. I also tried a y shaped usb cable so it has double the amount of power so 10volts should be going through it. This didn’t make any difference to my problem but it does make the antenna perform better.
I think the next thing I’ll be trying is moving the dab receiver away from the headunit and see how i get on with that(although I do think I have already tried this). It definately appears to be an interference problem but from what is the question?!
Well I’m still scratching my head with this.
Tried moving the dab receiver away from the headunit last night and it makes little difference.
I’m thinking it has to be something to do with the usb connection although I still don’t understand why it is linked to the brightness of the screen.
I can take the headunit out of the dash and turn the brightness up full and it will lose all signal but then I could move the headunit a little while still out of the dash and it goes to full signal and will stay there but as soon as i go to push the unit back in the car it goes off again. The strange thing is if i then do put the unit back in the dash then lower the brightness to the lowest setting then signal is perfect again.
I’m ready for throwing it out to be honest!.!
Does anyone know anything about noise interference on USB ports?
I’m thinking this could potentially be the cause.
I’ve just been reading that electrical devices can cause high frequency noise interference to usb devices so I’m just guessing here that when I turn screen brightness up it is interfering and the dab receiver can’t cope with it.
Anyone for an opinion on this or know anything about it?
I’m going to buy a ferrite bead to put on the usb cable before the dab receiver and see if this helps.
ab1702 said:
Does anyone know anything about noise interference on USB ports?
I’m thinking this could potentially be the cause.
I’ve just been reading that electrical devices can cause high frequency noise interference to usb devices so I’m just guessing here that when I turn screen brightness up it is interfering and the dab receiver can’t cope with it.
Anyone for an opinion on this or know anything about it?
I’m going to buy a ferrite bead to put on the usb cable before the dab receiver and see if this helps.
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Click to collapse
you then solved, because I also have the problems problems
Hello
I wanted to upgrade my 2017 Dasaita Android 6.0 PX5 unit with an PX6 Coreboard from M.I.C. Germany.
The Problem is that the PX6 Board has 4 more pins than the Mainboard
Will it Work..??
Hi, yes it will work. The motherboard is without DSP connectivity and the new PX6 CPU board has an extra 4 pins on the left (next to the HDMI connector if you place the board with the connector facing you and the CPU facing up) for DSP. The remaining contacts of these plates are the same, respectively 4 contacts remain hanging in the air. Audio will work but no DSP.
Thank you
I soldered the GPS cable on the PX6 and put it in the socket, screwed it down, plugged it in my car and: nothing!
First i thought "Great...i've got a dead Coreboard" but then i put some pressure on the connectors and the unit started to Boot.
But as soon i released the pressure the unit was going black.
I unscrewed it an noticed that it was very loose in there. So i pressed a pit harder on the connectors and it got as thight as the px5 was before. Screwed it down again, plugged it back in and it works now.
It didn't fit me because of one screw that holds the cooler, I had to remove it, it would be best to remove the nut in the motherboard, but I didn't want to do that, I was worried about other damage. Be careful when installing, the pins may be damaged. If the board does not fit well, then there will be a problem when the car shakes.
I was aware of this problem. I think ive read it somewhere here in the forum. I checked all screws and none of them are in they way. First i thought the 8.000 Crystal oscillator is to high...maybe he is... but it works now.
I also was thinking about car shaking and i want to secure the Board with glue.
Any recommendations...?
Someone had a bad contact so they coated the pins with tin, but you have to be skilled with solder. It is a pity that the screws are not closer to the pin to hold it better. I don't know how to stick it. Maybe make some pressure attached to the chassis of the device, there are no limits to imagination, just be careful not to damage something else. But maybe it will be good, test it in the car first.
I thought more on a rubber-like glue to hold it in place, so its easer to remove if i have to...
Or some silicone glue...
Edith:
I secured it now with high-temp-silicon glue... The same stuff is used for heat spreaders on CPUs...