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Faulty unit - no sound?

I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy

ADB100 said:
I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
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Click to collapse
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.

sirleeofroy said:
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.

ADB100 said:
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown

sirleeofroy said:
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
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Click to collapse
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?

ADB100 said:
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.

sirleeofroy said:
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
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Click to collapse
The audio is supplied to the amp via a quad-lock connector. So the audio from the rear of the unit connects to this dongle on one side, out the other side of the dongle are four female RCA's. These are connected to four male RCA's that connect to the quad-lock connector. There are two blue wires labelled 'AMP-CON' that have male/female push-fit connectors and these are connected together - I am guessing this is the 12v to switch the amp on? There is also another blue wire labelled 'ANT' with a push-fit connector. This is connected to a green wire coming out of the antenna facra cable.
It was working and nothing has been disturbed so I am fairly sure its not been wired up incorrectly. I think something has broken...
I'll check with a multimeter that I am getting 12v on the AMP-CON cable from the back of the amp first.
Andy

OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy

ADB100 said:
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
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Click to collapse
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.

sirleeofroy said:
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
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Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for taking the time to help out. I don't think I described the cabling correctly. The AMP-CON and the ANT come from the same pin in the connector that plugs into the rear of the head unit (one wire comes out and then it splits into two and there is a bit of heat-shrink around the join. If I disconnect the ANT cable from the green wire that comes from the fakra adapter there is sound and the cable goes +10v. If I connect it back up there is a low 'thud' as it makes contact, the sound stops and the voltage drops to 0.something. It seems the fakra adapter is dragging the voltage down, hence why I think this adapter might be faulty.
Andy

I have the same issue now. We’re you able to resolve this?

I am also having this issue.. My HU turns on. Everything works perfectly... Just no sound. None at all. No factory amp. In a 2002 Silverado. I don't know if its the internal amp or what. Ideas?

Eonon GA8157 - Audi A3 8PA 2006

Hi there guys.
I just bought a piece of Eonon GA8157 from Eonon. After the install, i got a few small issues (or big, depending on my mood ). Although the biggest of them is that my rear amplifier, that amplifies the subwoofer and the rear speakers isn't working, i have no ideea why, because i have alot of cables, and they were just plug and play.
My problem is the internet. I have two modems along with sim cards inserted. One is ZTE MF667 and the other is ZTE K3565-Z. None of them works. I don't know if there is a list of supported modems, but i thought that they were just plug and play.
From what i understand, i can however make these work if i root my device. I'm great at rooting mobile devices, but i don't want to ruin something to this head unit because it seems hard to modify something.
So, that is the question. Can i root this head unit, or install another firmware, or something to make this usb modems work?
If not, can you recomend me another modem? this unit is dead without internet connection, and i don't want to drain my phone battery by hotspotting it.
Operation System Android 7.1
CPU Processor RK3188 1.6GHz Cortex A9 Quad-Core
RAM SAMSUNG DDR3, 2GB
Memory 16 GB
Based on what i read, i guess that my device is PX3.
Thank you, in advance!
Alin.

I have a 2007 A4 with a MTCD_XRC head unit and I also have the rear amp, but I notice that the rear speakers are much lower then the fronts. I bought a line level converter and was messing with that and a ground loop isolator to get rid of the engine noise. But I have noticed after messing with it, even without ANY rca cables plugged in I still get audio out haha. I have looked at the wiring and I believe what needs to happen to make things totally correct is you need to rewire the back rca cables to go through the converter and completely bypass the rear amp as the head unit has enough juice to power all of the speakers. I also noticed after messing with things that I no longer needed the isolator on any of the speakers and I just moved the center to the rear a few click and it seems to level things out for the time being.
I've messed with a Huewei Cricket USB 4g dealio here and I was able to kind of get it working by using the PPP widget, but I was not getting connected, but the lights were changing so I am pretty sure its working, it just needs some fine tuning (I have project fi as my service provider)
I can try to help ya out if you need a hand, but I if you look further into some of the stuff I have mentioned I think you can figure it out.

Hi, thank you for your comment!
I was thinking at the same ideea yesterday. The amplifier from the unit is very powerfull, much powerfull than the audi one. My front speakers are more powerfull than ever, yet, my back speakers aren't.
My ideea was to rewire the back speakers to the back of the head unit, and connect them in line, but i have no ideea how the subwoofer works. I didn't saw any wires for it. Maybe he's connected in line with the rear speakers?

Fakken said:
Hi, thank you for your comment!
I was thinking at the same ideea yesterday. The amplifier from the unit is very powerfull, much powerfull than the audi one. My front speakers are more powerfull than ever, yet, my back speakers aren't.
My ideea was to rewire the back speakers to the back of the head unit, and connect them in line, but i have no ideea how the subwoofer works. I didn't saw any wires for it. Maybe he's connected in line with the rear speakers?
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Click to collapse
The built in sub runs off of the rear amp as well. I disconnected and removed that a long time ago and I have a box in my trunk with 2 x 12 inch subs and a separate amp in the back left (It used to be mounted on the back side in the truck of a rear seat). And now with the android unit I ran a dedicated RCA from the back to the trunk for my external amp, I used to run it off of the line outs I tapped into on the rear stock amp.
So if you just wire to the rear speakers directly you should be good.

Thank you!
That was exactly what the chinese guys from eonon said today.
Rewire the cables and i should be good.
I will try this and see if it works along with the sub.
If not, i will rip all the wires, rewire the rear speakers directly to the head unit and buy an aftermarket active subwoofer, and connect it to the sub RCA of the unit.
End of story

Fakken said:
Thank you!
That was exactly what the chinese guys from eonon said today.
Rewire the cables and i should be good.
I will try this and see if it works along with the sub.
If not, i will rip all the wires, rewire the rear speakers directly to the head unit and buy an aftermarket active subwoofer, and connect it to the sub RCA of the unit.
End of story
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Click to collapse
Not exactly the same, but some good similar info just to dig through to get ideas, I do not agree with all of it but just good to mull over. I have so many pages saved of people talking about similar stuff when I was doing research on mine haha.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7158675-Head-Unit-Recommendation/page2

Erisin head unit in Skoda Superb, static across all channels

Installed the Erisin ES7915v in a 2009 Skoda Superb a few days ago. PX5 running Android 9.0.
Install was fine and things are working well except for a constant static that appears whenever the volume is above zero. The static does not change volume but it's easily noticeable at lower volumes especially on e.g. non-music radio. There was no static at all on the previous setup (the factory fitted Skoda Columbus / RNS 510). Turn volume to zero and static disappears.
The car has an amp under the passenger seat (factory fitted again). It doesn't use RCA cables - just standard speaker wire cables from the wiring harness in the head unit down to the amp and then out to the speakers. The head unit has the option of using RCA cables.
So:
1. I've altered gain up to -15 and it doesn't have any overall effect.
2. While the static volume doesn't change, the pitch can do so with acceleration etc.
3. It's not related to the screen or the button colours - I've altered those / turned screen off but it has zero effect.
4. I can use the software amp to bring down treble frequencies which helps lower the static but that's not ideal and doesn't come close to eliminating the whole noise.
5. I've tried running a ground wire attached to the head unit to the chassis but no effect.
6. No dash cam. No DAB. No reversing cam (yet).
7. I have a 4g dongle in the glovebox providing wifi but the static is there whether this is on or off.
8. Unplugging the radio aerial doesn't have an effect.
9. Unplugging GPS aerial doesn't have an effect.
Any further suggestions? And is this a faulty unit OR is this likely to happen even if I get a replacement?

heddyheddy said:
Installed the Erisin ES7915v in a 2009 Skoda Superb a few days ago. PX5 running Android 9.0.
Install was fine and things are working well except for a constant static that appears whenever the volume is above zero. The static does not change volume but it's easily noticeable at lower volumes especially on e.g. non-music radio. There was no static at all on the previous setup (the factory fitted Skoda Columbus / RNS 510). Turn volume to zero and static disappears.
The car has an amp under the passenger seat (factory fitted again). It doesn't use RCA cables - just standard speaker wire cables from the wiring harness in the head unit down to the amp and then out to the speakers. The head unit has the option of using RCA cables.
So:
1. I've altered gain up to -15 and it doesn't have any overall effect.
2. While the static volume doesn't change, the pitch can do so with acceleration etc.
3. It's not related to the screen or the button colours - I've altered those / turned screen off but it has zero effect.
4. I can use the software amp to bring down treble frequencies which helps lower the static but that's not ideal and doesn't come close to eliminating the whole noise.
5. I've tried running a ground wire attached to the head unit to the chassis but no effect.
6. No dash cam. No DAB. No reversing cam (yet).
7. I have a 4g dongle in the glovebox providing wifi but the static is there whether this is on or off.
8. Unplugging the radio aerial doesn't have an effect.
9. Unplugging GPS aerial doesn't have an effect.
Any further suggestions? And is this a faulty unit OR is this likely to happen even if I get a replacement?
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Click to collapse
What did the reseller suggest to resolve the issue?

So far the reseller response is " " because they haven't replied to two emails.

heddyheddy said:
So far the reseller response is " " because they haven't replied to two emails.
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Click to collapse
Suggest identifying the actual model of your unit; if it's an MTCD or mtce, there are others complaining of similar issues in the threads that you might want to look for.

marchnz said:
Suggest identifying the actual model of your unit; if it's an MTCD or mtce, there are others complaining of similar issues in the threads that you might want to look for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I'll post that later when I am with the car again. I checked through a lot of previous threads and the few solutions that have helped others on occasion were no good for me.

marchnz said:
Suggest identifying the actual model of your unit; if it's an MTCD or mtce(
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So this is an MTCE unit:
MTCE_LM_V3.12_1
May 16 2019
Model: PX5(1024x600)
CPU: Octa-core Cortex-A53 @ 1.5G
Build number: rk3368-userdebug 9 PQ2A and I can type out the rest if it's important.
So I guess that means it's from LEI_MA Lei Electronics Inc
I have also found that the static is caused by the lights. With headlights / sidelights OFF, there is no static. It *doesn't* appear to be the result of the LCD or the lights of the buttons on the unit (this has been an issue for others). When I turn the headlights off, the static goes immediately but the lights on the unit remain on for half a second - but the static has already ceased.
So with that knowledge, should I move this post or is this the place for MTCE discussion as well?
Any thoughts on how best to tackle the interference from the lights would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hello,
I hope you find solution with the static.
Since i am interested also for this unit, can you tell if everything else works fine?
Does the CANbus fitted directly?
Steering wheel controls works fine?
How much time the unit need to boot?
Thanks

Same unit, same Problem. VW Golf 5 (2008).
I could solve the problem. The radio antenna is not connected and it is gone. Likewise with only one antenna connected (double fakra), it is gone. Radio still works.

Question FYT 7862 unit blowing fuses

Trying to install this unit and it keeps blowing both the car fuse for stereo and stereo fuse everytime I plug in the cords any suggestions as been though a few fuses came with factory wiring harness and everything is connected correctly
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNyiujC

If it's blowing the fuse in the back of the unit, I suspect a defective unit.

Uninstall fuse.apk

Yep must be a defective unit now to try and get seller to help

I have noticed that these FYT units do not have robust ESD (Electro Static Discharge) protection inside.
My Joying unit became damaged after I removed and reinstalled it a few times. The canbus adapter blew a mosfet causing the radio to be always on.
The GPS and one of the 4G antenna connectors seem to be shorted internally where they did work initially.
No sign of any transient suppressors on the main board or in the canbus adapter.
This is bad because a car interior is a very high risk enviroment for ESD damage. :-(

Question 12v from reverse light not forcing HU into rear cam mode

I have a Navifly 7862 head unit and up until now have not bothered to add a rear cam to integrate into the head unit. My car has a separate factory rear cam that has the monitor integrated into the rear vision mirror.
So due to a rainy weekend, I decided to add a new AHD cam. Cam is wired to the reverse light. My 6m RCA plus power lead at the head unit gets 11 volts when reverse gear is triggered. The RCA gets about 0.5 volts.
The options to connect to the 11 (12) volt red power to the head unit are wires called "Camera B+" (red), "IR" (grey), "Brake In" (pink) and two different unnamed yellow wires that are all running from the same connector from the head unit.
The 11 volt red power is connected to Camera B + yet when in reverse the head unit screen does not change. I have tried the live 11 volt line on IR, Brake In and the 2 yellow wires to try and get the head unit to switch to rear cam mode but I cannot get that to happen.
eve if the camera was faulty, I would expect to see the head unit change from home screen to a blank screen that states "no signal" or similar.
Can anyone suggest what the issue might be. I have looked through the settings but am yet to find anything to force the head unit to change to rear cam mode.

ludditefornow said:
I have a Navifly 7862 head unit and up until now have not bothered to add a rear cam to integrate into the head unit. My car has a separate factory rear cam that has the monitor integrated into the rear vision mirror.
So due to a rainy weekend, I decided to add a new AHD cam. Cam is wired to the reverse light. My 6m RCA plus power lead at the head unit gets 11 volts when reverse gear is triggered. The RCA gets about 0.5 volts.
The options to connect to the 11 (12) volt red power to the head unit are wires called "Camera B+" (red), "IR" (grey), "Brake In" (pink) and two different unnamed yellow wires that are all running from the same connector from the head unit.
The 11 volt red power is connected to Camera B + yet when in reverse the head unit screen does not change. I have tried the live 11 volt line on IR, Brake In and the 2 yellow wires to try and get the head unit to switch to rear cam mode but I cannot get that to happen.
eve if the camera was faulty, I would expect to see the head unit change from home screen to a blank screen that states "no signal" or similar.
Can anyone suggest what the issue might be. I have looked through the settings but am yet to find anything to force the head unit to change to rear cam mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go to factory settings and find a setting called "Prohibit Reverse", switch this setting and try again.

ludditefornow said:
I have a Navifly 7862 head unit and up until now have not bothered to add a rear cam to integrate into the head unit. My car has a separate factory rear cam that has the monitor integrated into the rear vision mirror.
So due to a rainy weekend, I decided to add a new AHD cam. Cam is wired to the reverse light. My 6m RCA plus power lead at the head unit gets 11 volts when reverse gear is triggered. The RCA gets about 0.5 volts.
The options to connect to the 11 (12) volt red power to the head unit are wires called "Camera B+" (red), "IR" (grey), "Brake In" (pink) and two different unnamed yellow wires that are all running from the same connector from the head unit.
The 11 volt red power is connected to Camera B + yet when in reverse the head unit screen does not change. I have tried the live 11 volt line on IR, Brake In and the 2 yellow wires to try and get the head unit to switch to rear cam mode but I cannot get that to happen.
eve if the camera was faulty, I would expect to see the head unit change from home screen to a blank screen that states "no signal" or similar.
Can anyone suggest what the issue might be. I have looked through the settings but am yet to find anything to force the head unit to change to rear cam mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By the way...
You are forcing 12V into the Videosignal line... What are you doing there?
I just had a look at your attached picture. You should not wonder if the radio is now in the eternal hunting-grounds.
If you don´t know how to install a radio, please search for one who can do that without burning down your car. On top the 12V line just twisted together... Whow...Never seen someone doing such bad things in one single posting.

rigattoni said:
By the way...
You are forcing 12V into the Videosignal line... What are you doing there?
I just had a look at your attached picture. You should not wonder if the radio is now in the eternal hunting-grounds.
If you don´t know how to install a radio, please search for one who can do that without burning down your car. On top the 12V line just twisted together... Whow...Never seen someone doing such bad things in one single posting.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have temporarily twisted the wire for testing purposes. I solder and heat seal connections when confirmed. Are you always this critical of people?
So what voltage should be fed to the Camera B + line?
The directions was to tap into the reverse light (which is 12 volt) and send that to the power line that runs parallel with the RCA. Are you suggesting that I shouldn't?
Well how about helping here instead of criticising, please, if you know better.

ludditefornow said:
I have temporarily twisted the wire for testing purposes. I solder and heat seal connections when confirmed. Are you always this critical of people?
So what voltage should be fed to the Camera B + line?
The directions was to tap into the reverse light (which is 12 volt) and send that to the power line that runs parallel with the RCA. Are you suggesting that I shouldn't?
Well how about helping here instead of criticising, please, if you know better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not critical- post is accurate and suggests finding a skilled installer to assist you. Poking power on to the head unit wires without understanding is a sure way to break the unit or vehicle.

marchnz said:
Not critical- post is accurate and suggests finding a skilled installer to assist you. Poking power on to the head unit wires without understanding is a sure way to break the unit or vehicle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are 5 in lines to tap.
The literature that came with the cam as well as all videos online from the likes of Joying that I found show a 12v tap from the rear reverse light for the trigger.
You posted recently about 4PDA not being wanted at XDA because the silo knowledge.
Are you not willing to take a few minutes to actually share knowledge when there is a direct lack of knowledge from suppliers?

Well I found the issue and somehow 'managed' not to destroy my head unit, my car, my house or the local power station.
All connections are nicely soldered and heat shrink wrapped now that I have a permanent fix.
The initial attempt at connecting the 12v line to Camera B + as noted on other how tos did not work.
To stay in the spirit of XDA (unlike the postings of some) I would like to advise that the wiring diagram from Navifly was incorrect.They have the pin 2 on the main connector as the reverse that feeds the CAN module. Pin 2 carries a constant 12v. Pin 3 (pink on my HU connector) carries zero voltage. I tapped pin 3 pink wire on the way to the CAN and added the red daughter wire on my 6m long RCA cable.
My red daughter wire is fed 12v from my rear reverse lamp. Reverse lamp also feeds the reverse cam.
I hope this assists someone in future.

ludditefornow said:
ludditefornow said:
Well I found the issue and somehow 'managed' not to destroy my head unit, my car, my house or the local power station.
All connections are nicely soldered and heat shrink wrapped now that I have a permanent fix.
The initial attempt at connecting the 12v line to Camera B + as noted on other how tos did not work.
To stay in the spirit of XDA (unlike the postings of some) I would like to advise that the wiring diagram from Navifly was
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Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You did it. Thanks for posting your findings, I believe this has been posted about before.
I wouldn't recommend projecting at those that have actually spent hours to days developing methods, tools and helping others here.

All that because of the canbus. i believe they send you a canbus box that only works for steering wheel buttons and nothing else. i had the same problem and solved it like you did.

ludditefornow said:
To stay in the spirit of XDA (unlike the postings of some) I would like to advise that the wiring diagram from Navifly was incorrect.They have the pin 2 on the main connector as the reverse that feeds the CAN module. Pin 2 carries a constant 12v. Pin 3 (pink on my HU connector) carries zero voltage. I tapped pin 3 pink wire on the way to the CAN and added the red daughter wire on my 6m long RCA cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to say, but the wiring diagram is not really incorrect. It always depends on the aftermarket cam you use. But it is never a good idea to feed 12V into a CPU which just expects a video signal.
...and if you have a look at the wiring diagram of the camera, it shows 2 different ways to get the cam feeded with 12V.
The first one is the yellow connector which has a red wire coming out.
If you would have used this one, plug it into the "CAM IN" connector of your unit and the red one to the Back wire of your unit you would have been okay.
Using the back light to feed the camera is in most cases not necessary.
By the way... As I have seen that you feed the Video-In chinch-connector with 12V, I really was the meaning that you even don´t know anything about that what you did. I just gave the tip to search someone who knows what he does. I didn´t see any chance to start from scratch to teach you how to do.
I am on top really pissed if I see someone just wiggling cables together.
I just counted 1+1 and decided that I have to stop you doing strange things, which could lead to shorts and such things.
So... if it is working now as expected: Fine! ...and thanks for posting.

rigattoni said:
Sorry to say, but the wiring diagram is not really incorrect. It always depends on the aftermarket cam you use. But it is never a good idea to feed 12V into a CPU which just expects a video signal.
...and if you have a look at the wiring diagram of the camera, it shows 2 different ways to get the cam feeded with 12V.
The first one is the yellow connector which has a red wire coming out.
If you would have used this one, plug it into the "CAM IN" connector of your unit and the red one to the Back wire of your unit you would have been okay.
Using the back light to feed the camera is in most cases not necessary.
By the way... As I have seen that you feed the Video-In chinch-connector with 12V, I really was the meaning that you even don´t know anything about that what you did. I just gave the tip to search someone who knows what he does. I didn´t see any chance to start from scratch to teach you how to do.
I am on top really pissed if I see someone just wiggling cables together.
I just counted 1+1 and decided that I have to stop you doing strange things, which could lead to shorts and such things.
So... if it is working now as expected: Fine! ...and thanks for posting.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First, the diagram is incorrect and has nothing to do with the aftermarket cam. He didn't feed any 12v to video signal, the red wire is the trigger for the head unit to switch to reverse cam input, the 12v from the head unit is to feed the camera and doesn't need to be connected when you feed the camera from the reverse light. When you put the reverse the head unit must switch to reverse cam input if the canbus box is correct for your car, in this case and mines as well it isn't. The wire he shows came from the canbus box must have 12v when you put in reverse but no 12v

leo06 said:
First, the diagram is incorrect and has nothing to do with the aftermarket cam. He didn't feed any 12v to video signal, the red wire is the trigger for the head unit to switch to reverse cam input, the 12v from the head unit is to feed the camera and doesn't need to be connected when you feed the camera from the reverse light. When you put the reverse the head unit must switch to reverse cam input if the canbus box is correct for your car, in this case and mines as well it isn't. The wire he shows came from the canbus box must have 12v when you put in reverse but no 12v
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, but you are wrong.
The head unit reacts on a voltage difference to switch to the back view camera. It´s not needed to have 12V feeded to the head unit.
CAM-IN from the head unit expects the video signal nothing else.

rigattoni said:
Sorry, but you are wrong.
The head unit reacts on a voltage difference to switch to the back view camera. It´s not needed to have 12V feeded to the head unit.
CAM-IN from the head unit expects the video signal nothing else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, you are wrong. The cam in expects video and that what gets. The 12v from the head unit is to feed the camera but if you already feed the camera with reverse light not needed to be connected. If the canbus box worked properly, all will work too. Do you have the head unit and everything is working? The diagram is incorrect because the brake ctl is not the brake ctl but the reverse camera trigger

marchnz said:
You did it. Thanks for posting your findings, I believe this has been posted about before.
I wouldn't recommend projecting at those that have actually spent hours to days developing methods, tools and helping others here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I searched thoroughly and did not find the answer. Why didn't you link me to the answer?
Based on your condescending and unhelpful posts to me, I don't see why projecting at you in this instance is not unwarranted. You had the answers and you chose to not assist. You siloed.
"Prohibit Reverse", was a total red herring and forced me to add more variables into my testing. I now had to test multiple software options and wiring config as well as the incorrect Navifly info very time consuming.
If you feel I need to be banned for calling out this condescending, repugent and unhelpful responses. Go ahead. I have helped more people in this site than I have received and frankly I don't want to be a part of something where your attitude is acceptable.

If you haven't fixed it. I had the same problem with different HU.
I tought my camera or my wiring at the back of the car was wrong.
The reverse camera (12+) signal cable from the back reverse light goes to the REVERSE or BACK cable mostly at the main harness of the HU. In my case it was orange green from XTRONS.
The other red cable at the Rerverse Camera Video In harness is the so called "CAMERA POWER CABLE 12v" it's very irritating that both cable are red and have something to do with camera.
After restarting the HU it worked.

leo06 said:
Sorry, you are wrong. The cam in expects video and that what gets. The 12v from the head unit is to feed the camera but if you already feed the camera with reverse light not needed to be connected. If the canbus box worked properly, all will work too. Do you have the head unit and everything is working? The diagram is incorrect because the brake ctl is not the brake ctl but the reverse camera trigger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That wire ( A5? ) isn't it meant to tell the headunit to switch to the reverse camera? Because if I would disconnect the reverse camera, it would still be triggered and show a black screen with the car on the left.
But no image, as the reverse camera is off: the wiring diagram that Mekede and also Ekiy provided was correct. Just there are two methods, one for when you need to use Canbus. And the other more common method, which uses the reverse light for trigger and to power the reverse camera.

DexterMorganNL said:
That wire ( A5? ) isn't it meant to tell the headunit to switch to the reverse camera? Because if I would disconnect the reverse camera, it would still be triggered and show a black screen with the car on the left.
But no image, as the reverse camera is off: the wiring diagram that Mekede and also Ekiy provided was correct. Just there are two methods, one for when you need to use Canbus. And the other more common method, which uses the reverse light for trigger and to power the reverse camera.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it is swapped, the brake ctl is the reverse camera trigger. In navifly there is no lose cable for triggering, the cable is connected to the canbus box and if that is not working you have to cut the wire and connect the red cable to reverse light and to headunit

Hello @ludditefornow , my iDoing head unit have the same your error. Screen blank when back cable to 12v
I bring mine to a repair center, this error from damaged ic named tp9950
You can search, this tp9950 to control the camera signal
I can not replace this ic, and waiting for new ic, i hope new ic will resolve the camera error.
If you have other solution, please share.
Thank you.

nguyenlaman said:
Hello @ludditefornow , my iDoing head unit have the same your error. Screen blank when back cable to 12v
I bring mine to a repair center, this error from damaged ic named tp9950
You can search, this tp9950 to control the camera signal
I can not replace this ic, and waiting for new ic, i hope new ic will resolve the camera error.
If you have other solution, please share.
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Laman, the issue for me was that the wiring diagram from Navifly was incorrect. Look here at wiring. https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...g-hu-into-rear-cam-mode.4479369/post-87280853
When I had the cam wired I needed to put the car in reverse and on the back screen I long pressed on the screen and some options popped up. After that I had cam work.
Let us know if that works for you.

Guys, please help me.
I've installed my Android unit, all okish, but I'm having trouble with the reverse camera.
The instructions are identical with the photo posted by ludditefornow, just in black and white.
The camera connector that goes into the unit has the yellow video jack labeled cam in. Then it has 3 other wires: IR, Break and CCD.
The little red wire on the cable is connected to the IR wire. On the other end it's connected to the 12v reverse light cable.
When in reverse, the unit switches, the parking sensors appear, but there's no picture.
The unit has 2 modes for the reverse camera, AHD (which the camera is supposed to be), and TV. I've tried them both.
One time, just once, the camera showed a black and white, scrambled picture.
I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Please help.
I'll attach a photo with the current wiring.