Database Info

Imate Jsjar crashes soon after disconnected from charger

My HTC universal crashes ( shuts off) after being disconnected from the charger for only a short while. I have noticed this when trying to make a telephone call and when listening to an audio book on Media.
The device is about 3 years old. The OS is Tomal version 8.5..is it an OS problem or battery problem.
I dont want to invest in a new battery if that is not the problem.

it's the battery!
It has to be the battery,see if it's bulged in the middle...means it has to be replaced.You keep using a near dead battery and one day it may leak/explode and damage your beloved Uni.Just change it.Or borrow one and see how your device performs so you can decide...

I neglected to mention that the battery shows 95 % charged when this happens. I can get back to the device if I plug it in.
Can you recommend a new battery?

rkbrouwer said:
I neglected to mention that the battery shows 95 % charged when this happens. I can get back to the device if I plug it in.
Can you recommend a new battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
95% of not much charge is still 95% charged, its the battery. If you look on Ebay you can find batteries quite reasonable, but try to go for an original one.
Jay

Is that really true? The amount that the 95% is applied to is not a fixed amount and decreases over time? If that is so what is the purpose of something that says 95% full? How can I find out what full is?
Imagine a fuel gauge like that. The size of the tank gets smaller and smaller.

Testing your battery
The only true way to test your battery is to measure its voltage. the two larger terminals on the battery are the + and _, the _ is the terminal nearest the corner. test it with a mulimeter, if it is below 3.75 volt then charge it and test again. If it drops below 3.75 volts after a short time then it is worn out. the battery bar on the screen is only a rough idea of power left.
Hope this clears this up for you
Jay

Voltage shouldn't be dropped, it will be same even if there is no charge.
The cell's inside the battery are not capable to retain the charge and immediately returns a signal to the control circuit that he is full! Control circuit then triggers an updates to the memory chip (located under control circuit).
Polling mechanism (triggers by the driver) in the device gets the battery status directly from the memory chip and it is the main reason basically getting a false percentage.
Anyway, just replace the battery and everything will be fine then.

Has anyone tried the suggestions mentioned under XDA wiki before replacing the battery. One alternative was to discharge the battery completely by freezing it and then rechargingt it. Another was to tape the two indicator terminals.

BTW what is the effect of going into "bootloader (by backlight+power+reset button)" as mentioned in solving the battery problem undeer wiki XDAI hope that it does not mean that I have reinstall Mobile 6.1

3 years is old enough for battery, i think its your time to buy a new one.
if you want to try one of that method, i suggest you trying a tape method. i try with my batery (fals indicator) and it work.
going to bootloader for drain your battery. for me i turn on wifi and blue tooth at the same time, set band to G3 and turn GPRS on, and playing music and games. it drain faster

tomal said:
Voltage shouldn't be dropped, it will be same even if there is no charge.
The cell's inside the battery are not capable to retain the charge and immediately returns a signal to the control circuit that he is full! Control circuit then triggers an updates to the memory chip (located under control circuit).
Polling mechanism (triggers by the driver) in the device gets the battery status directly from the memory chip and it is the main reason basically getting a false percentage.
Anyway, just replace the battery and everything will be fine then.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
master chef tomal is right , its the ability or capacity of the battery to hold proper amperage or power. you cannot simply measure the voltage across the terminals as it will not be definitive in ascertaining such holding capacity especially for battery that is about to deteriorate its cells (not yet fully dead).
Of course, if the reading is below than the usual rating, the only logical option is for you to replace it asap. but if its within the range, you have to do further testing.. and, if you want to experiment a little, try to put a load across its terminals like an LED with 1kohm resistor, and then measure the voltage. if it drops drastically, your battery is ready for retirement However, if the voltage rating remains, measure the time your battery will be fully discharged using that load. thereafter, let me know how many hours or day it lasted to help me compute the approximate amperage of your battery, regards... :

Useful Battery Information and Calibration

Here is some information that should be useful to everyone in one way or another if not then you should have told us your secret months ago. lol
A Li-ion batteries life is on a time clock from the day it's produced and how it is used, maintained and the number of cycles it goes through reduces it's life. Even when not being used at all the clock is ticking and life is shortening.
So if any of you are like me I know many of you are far worse than me when it comes to the amount of stress put through it with flashing and extreme general use. Hopefully this will shed some light for us as to what we can do to try and prolong the life of our batteries.
The majority of the following information is from the book “Batteries in a Portable World – A Handbook on Rechargeable Batteries for Non-Engineers” (2nd edition) and Battery University™
Special thanks to the books author and sponsor of Battery University™,
Isidor Buchmann
CEO and Founder, Cadex Electronics Inc.
How to Prolong the Life of Li-ion Batteries
Battery wear-down on lithium-based batteries is caused by two activities: actual usage or cycling, and aging. The wear-down effects by usage and aging apply to all batteries but this is more pronounced on lithium-based systems.
The Li-ion batteries prefer a shallow discharge. Partial discharges produce less wear than a full discharge and the capacity loss per cycle is reduced. A periodic full discharge is not required because the lithium-based battery has no memory. A full cycle constitutes a discharge to 3V/cell. When specifying the number of cycles a lithium-based battery can endure, manufacturers commonly use an 80 percent depth of discharge. This method resembles a reasonably accurate field simulation. It also achieves a higher cycle count than doing full discharges.
Simple Guidelines
Charge the Li-ion often, except before a long storage. Avoid repeated deep discharges.
Keep the Li-ion battery cool. Prevent storage in a hot car. Never freeze a battery.
Avoid purchasing spare Li-ion batteries for later use. Observe manufacturing date when purchasing. Do not buy old stock, even if sold at clearance prices.
Hints to long battery life
3.92V/cell is the best upper voltage threshold for cobalt-based lithium-ion. Charging batteries to this voltage level has been shown to double cycle life. Lithium-ion systems for defense applications make use of the lower voltage threshold. The negative is reduced capacity.
The charge current of Li-ion should be moderate (0.5C for cobalt-based lithium-ion).The lower charge current reduces the time in which the cell resides at 4.20V. It should be noted that a 0.5C charge only adds marginally to the charge time over 1C because the topping charge will be shorter. A high current charge tends to push the voltage up and forces it into the voltage limit prematurely.
Memory Myth or Fact?
Lithium batteries are not affected by memory, but the chemistry has its own peculiarities. Current inhibiting pacifier layers affect them through plate oxidation. This degenerative effect is non-correctable on a lithium-based system
Calibration
A more serious issue is maintenance requirements, better known as capacity re-learning. This procedure is needed on a regular basis to calibrate the battery.
Why is calibration needed?
The answer is in correcting the tracking errors that occur between the battery and the digital sensing circuit during use. The most ideal battery use, as far as fuel-gauge accuracy is concerned, is a full charge followed by a full discharge at a constant 1C rate. This ensures that the tracking error is less than one percent per cycle. However, a battery may be discharged for only a few minutes at a time and commonly at a lower C-rate than 1C. Worst of all, the load may be uneven and vary drastically. Eventually, the true capacity of the battery no longer synchronizes with the fuel gauge and "a full charge and discharge are needed to ‘re-learn’ or calibrate the battery."
How often is calibration needed?
The answer lies in the type of battery application. For practical purposes, a calibration is recommended once every three months or after every 40 short cycles.
What happens if the battery is not calibrated regularly? Can such a battery be used in confidence?
Such a battery is able to function normally, but the digital readout will be inaccurate. If not corrected, the fuel gauge information simply becomes a nuisance.
Just Tell Me WTF I Should Do!
Charge your battery as often as possible, partial discharges are actually better for your battery
Once your battery is charged to 100% avoid leaving it plugged in any longer if you are not using a OEM charger.
Your battery should never get hot from charging if it does this is a sign it may be damaged.
If fuel gauge starts acting up calibrate your battery.
Yeah but how the f^$% do I calibrate my battery?
Charge phone up and then delete your battery stats.
Unplug your phone from your wall charger and let your battery drain all the way down until phone shuts off.
While still off charge phone to 100% and then boot up as normal.
There is so much more that it's mind boggling but I think this covers the main parts and beyond for everyone. So far it appears that the bump method is not necessary nor are the numerous other steps.
I can only laugh when I think that the reason the method of calibration I was using was actually working is due to the fact that the "wipe batt stats, drain battery completely and charge to 100%" is basically the last step and all that is essentially needed.

3 hours? That's it? I thought whenever I charged from empty to full when it's off it's longer.. I should time it.. hmm

darkamikaze said:
3 hours? That's it? I thought whenever I charged from empty to full when it's off it's longer.. I should time it.. hmm
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I removed the time completely since some may vary. But the 3 hours is how long it should take to charge on a standalone battery charger. So rather than confuse or have questions it's better without it.

Nice work!
Charging a 1500mAh battery at 500mAh for example will take 3 hours. The Captivate charges at 2 levels though depending on if it's USB (500mAh max for charge + phone use) or a charger (whatever it says on the charger up to ~1200mAh) so it can probably get done in under 2 hours.
The phone charges to 4.23V and stops charging when full but continues to run on external power, and shuts down at 3.500V where it only consumes current to monitor the power button.
Just for reference.

Battery Stats
Since this is the first time i had a really good battery life. I would like to share it with everyone. Please see the attached screen shots.
I am using Darky's 9.1 with SuckerPunch's 1280/500 Kernel and TLJL3 modem.
I hope this will help anyone trying to get more battery life out of their Captivate.
Thanks,

CuriousTech said:
Nice work!
Charging a 1500mAh battery at 500mAh for example will take 3 hours. The Captivate charges at 2 levels though depending on if it's USB (500mAh max for charge + phone use) or a charger (whatever it says on the charger up to ~1200mAh) so it can probably get done in under 2 hours.
The phone charges to 4.23V and stops charging when full but continues to run on external power, and shuts down at 3.500V where it only consumes current to monitor the power button.
Just for reference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Curious appreciate it and thanks for the additional info.

I had some other random thoughts about the calibration because I keep seeing so many posts daily.
For example "I installed a new kernel 15 minutes ago, recalibrated and the battery drain is horrible." or "After a few charges it lasted longer."
I don't think people get the idea of calibration. Recalibrating determines the capacity of the battery to convert to a % full gauge. To do that you need to fully charge until the "Battery full. Unplug charger." notification, and not rely on the display and unplugging as soon as it hits 100%. That's the inaccurate display that you're trying to calibrate.
Think of it like having an opaque container and a teaspoon. You think the container can hold 100 teaspoons, so you stop filling at 100. All you can get out of it is 100 until you try to fill until it tops off and then count how many come back out.
The phone works the same way. It has an ammeter that monitors the charge current and drain current from the battery from the time you unplug it until it shuts off and remembers that total as the capacity. Unless it's recharged in the middle which voids the data.
After that full discharge, it should stay pretty accurate even with partial discharges. At least until the next rom/kernel flash which wipes it out. At that point (I assume) it uses a simple voltage level and some relative amps drawn to display the gauge, instead of the smarter method of keeping a constant value of mAh by adding when charging and subtracting when draining to know exaclty how full the battery is.

CuriousTech said:
Nice work!
Charging a 1500mAh battery at 500mAh for example will take 3 hours. The Captivate charges at 2 levels though depending on if it's USB (500mAh max for charge + phone use) or a charger (whatever it says on the charger up to ~1200mAh) so it can probably get done in under 2 hours.
The phone charges to 4.23V and stops charging when full but continues to run on external power, and shuts down at 3.500V where it only consumes current to monitor the power button.
Just for reference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hm. so if the phone switches to external power when the charge is full, is it okay to leave my phone plugged in once it's done charging? or is it just the fact that the battery is holding a full (4.2V) charge for a long time that's bad for its health?
in any case, useful post! i knew there were ways to preserve the life of li-ion batteries, but was never well-versed on the details.

Yes to both. Once the battery is fully charged, the charge circuit stops completely. It doesn't even need to trickle charge, so leaving it plugged in doesn't hurt anything.
Once the charge is complete the voltage isn't being held at 4.20V so it can come back down a little. I think BatteryUniversity generalizes becuase there have been many different designs over the years that weren't as good as what we have now, and some may have trickle charged their Li-Ions which shortens the life.

Which is it that wipes the battery stats, ROM or kernel? or is it both?

CuriousTech said:
Yes to both. Once the battery is fully charged, the charge circuit stops completely. It doesn't even need to trickle charge, so leaving it plugged in doesn't hurt anything.
Once the charge is complete the voltage isn't being held at 4.20V so it can come back down a little. I think BatteryUniversity generalizes becuase there have been many different designs over the years that weren't as good as what we have now, and some may have trickle charged their Li-Ions which shortens the life.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One word of caution though is to ensure that you are using an OEM charger. Battery University recommends that you unplug once capacity is reached but perhaps this is a general statement for Li-ion batteries as you state.

zerkai said:
Which is it that wipes the battery stats, ROM or kernel? or is it both?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both. The first thing in a ROM flash script is to format all the partitions, so that means the batterstats.bin file is erased. When flashing a new kernel the file gets reset by some other means. No idea what. It could be CWM.

Yeah but how the f^$% do I calibrate my battery?
Charge phone up and then delete your battery stats.
Unplug your phone from your wall charger and let your battery drain all the way down until phone shuts off.
While still off charge phone to 100% and then boot up as normal.
My noob question is, how do you delete the battery stats?

iNFRiNGE said:
One word of caution though is to ensure that you are using an OEM charger. Battery University recommends that you unplug once capacity is reached but perhaps this is a general statement for Li-ion batteries as you state.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What happens when you introduce the variable of occasional car charger use?

Sanctus Peregrinus said:
Yeah but how the f^$% do I calibrate my battery?
Charge phone up and then delete your battery stats.
Unplug your phone from your wall charger and let your battery drain all the way down until phone shuts off.
While still off charge phone to 100% and then boot up as normal.
My noob question is, how do you delete the battery stats?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the file is located at /data/system/batterystats.bin . you'll need a file browser with root access (i use root explorer, a paid app). make sure you mount the storage as read/write or you won't be able to delete the file.
after that, reboot your phone and it will rebuild the batterystats file.
***disclaimer: be careful doing this. if you delete a crucial file, you risk messing up or bricking your phone. such is life.

Nice write up with alot of interesting information. I have never calibrated my battery but will have to try it out. Thanks for posting.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App

I'm not positive of this, but I don't think batterystats.bin holds any battery capacity or health info. I was looking at BatteryManager and it looks like a database of processes and what they use only. But there is info somewhere that gets lost easily, which is the capacity and current amount consumed.
I've been skipping the delete of that file (using CWM) and have noticed that it recalibrates fine anyway. This coming from the point of dropping just after unplugging, which is a good indication that the info is gone.
It doesn't matter if you use a car charger, USB, or AC. The phone has the actual smart charger in it, the external connection is just the power supply. The chip inside regulates and monitors the charge.
So think of it this way. The charger knows when the battery is empty or full, and measures what goes in and comes out. So to know the capacity, it has to go from full to empty. That's really all there is to it. Just wait for the real "Battery full" before unplugging.

[Q] How to recharge the over-discharged battery?

Hi all.
I've over-discharged my stock battery and now it doesn't charge. It lights up green as soon as I plug the charger. I've tried different chargers but didn't help.
I've made this using short circuit so don't think it's related to Sensation. You may ask why I tought over-discharging may solve the touchscreen issues. Don't know if it's solved because phone doesn't open.
Do you have any advice to restore the battery rather that getting a new battery? I've already ordered new battery though.

Certain laptop battery manufacturers use a circuit which stores battery charge information, but is itself, "kept alive" by the residual current in (even a dead) battery.
I've seen the case on a number of times that discharging below the "allowed" level causes this circuit to fail, thus the communication between battery and device is incorrect, inaccurate or, at worst, not there at all.
(this is why there are more than just + - on your battery)
You could find the correct recharge rate for the battery - current and voltage - and charge it manually, and hope that said 'battery state circuit' comes back to life, but honestly, I think you'll be, as they say, SOL.
I've had perfectly good laptop batteries, holding a full charge, having a great discharge rate, but the laptop would refuse to accept it, just because of this little circuit.
WARNING: Charging / over charging / charging in a way other than in accordance with the original device literature can VERY likely cause the battery to fail completely, including, but not limited to FIRE or EXPLOSION! DO NOT PROCEED UNLESS YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU ARE DOING. LiPo (and LiIon for that matter) are EXTREMELY DANGEROUS when used wrongly!
All the above said, have fun, don't blow yourself up, and let us know how you get on. Also, from a personal point of view, I'd be interested to know the 'technical reasons' behind the thought that over-discharging could solve the touch-screen problem - can you remember where you got the info originally?

Figure_desire said:
Hi all.
I've over-discharged my stock battery and now it doesn't charge. It lights up green as soon as I plug the charger. I've tried different chargers but didn't help.
I've made this using short circuit so don't think it's related to Sensation. You may ask why I tought over-discharging may solve the touchscreen issues. Don't know if it's solved because phone doesn't open.
Do you have any advice to restore the battery rather that getting a new battery? I've already ordered new battery though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wtf? did you shortcut the battery or the phone? if shortcut the battery it my be blown. Anywyas you could try jump charging it, unplug and plug it in fast, or put it in a outlet which has a switch and try toggling it on and off for some minutes, you may be able to jump it up to the voltage it needs to start charge

niddnet said:
Certain laptop battery manufacturers use a circuit which stores battery charge information, but is itself, "kept alive" by the residual current in (even a dead) battery.
I've seen the case on a number of times that discharging below the "allowed" level causes this circuit to fail, thus the communication between battery and device is incorrect, inaccurate or, at worst, not there at all.
(this is why there are more than just + - on your battery)
You could find the correct recharge rate for the battery - current and voltage - and charge it manually, and hope that said 'battery state circuit' comes back to life, but honestly, I think you'll be, as they say, SOL.
I've had perfectly good laptop batteries, holding a full charge, having a great discharge rate, but the laptop would refuse to accept it, just because of this little circuit.
WARNING: Charging / over charging / charging in a way other than in accordance with the original device literature can VERY likely cause the battery to fail completely, including, but not limited to FIRE or EXPLOSION! DO NOT PROCEED UNLESS YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU ARE DOING. LiPo (and LiIon for that matter) are EXTREMELY DANGEROUS when used wrongly!
All the above said, have fun, don't blow yourself up, and let us know how you get on. Also, from a personal point of view, I'd be interested to know the 'technical reasons' behind the thought that over-discharging could solve the touch-screen problem - can you remember where you got the info originally?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is my second unit and it has touchscreen problems too. I'm not an expert but here is why I did that.
My phone was working normally and had %20 battery left. I went outside and didn't have extra battery or charger so I've used my friend's USB cable and lapto to charge it. After it reached to 44% I unplugged it and saw touchscreen issues started. I've searched and remembered some advices from XDA like discharging and charging may solve it so I gave it a try but it didn't help. Then tried over-discharging and charging but stock here.
What do you mean by charge it manually?

Utking said:
wtf? did you shortcut the battery or the phone? if shortcut the battery it my be blown. Anywyas you could try jump charging it, unplug and plug it in fast, or put it in a outlet which has a switch and try toggling it on and off for some minutes, you may be able to jump it up to the voltage it needs to start charge
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did short circuit the battery I know sounds crazy but I'm sick of touchscreen issues. Are you saying that I may try connecting it an appropriate charger's output directly like + > + , - > - ?

I'm saying, chances are, it's wrecked. You shouldn't really discharge batteries by short-circuit - that puts massive stresses on the structure of the cells in the battery and probably completely ruins it.
It can also cause excessive heat, which can lead to nasty things happening.
Recharging the battery by connecting + to + and - to - is theoretically possible, however, to do this SAFELY, you would need to know the manufacturer's recommended charge rate, times, voltages etc. They differ greatly.
Do it too slowly, and you just result in a very inefficient trickle-charge, which can sometimes do more harm than good....
Do it too fast - cells in the battery become gaseous, the gas vents, and you have fiery explosions... also not good.
Seriously - I would strongly recommend against playing with it. If you want to see what CAN happen when it goes wrong, YouTube it!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3o_2mwRPdw
Insane amounts of energy stored in these batteries

niddnet said:
I'm saying, chances are, it's wrecked. You shouldn't really discharge batteries by short-circuit - that puts massive stresses on the structure of the cells in the battery and probably completely ruins it.
It can also cause excessive heat, which can lead to nasty things happening.
Recharging the battery by connecting + to + and - to - is theoretically possible, however, to do this SAFELY, you would need to know the manufacturer's recommended charge rate, times, voltages etc. They differ greatly.
Do it too slowly, and you just result in a very inefficient trickle-charge, which can sometimes do more harm than good....
Do it too fast - cells in the battery become gaseous, the gas vents, and you have fiery explosions... also not good.
Seriously - I would strongly recommend against playing with it. If you want to see what CAN happen when it goes wrong, YouTube it!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yesterday I connected the battery which is stock 3.7 V to the my digital camera's charger which is 4.25 V, 0.25 A, 50-60 Hz with cables for 6 hours but didn't work. BTW, stock charger is 5V, 1 A and 50-60 Hz.
Can I try jump charge with this camera's charger? If I can, how fast should I connect and disconnect the cable?

That's exactly what I'm talking about.
It should be noted that the Sensation stock battery is LiIon, rather than LiPo, but the effects can be very similar, and just as disasterous if that happens when your battery is in the vicinity of.... anything!!!

I think it's dead mate =/ but just switch it on and off a couple of times in a second

Utking said:
I think it's dead mate =/ but just switch it on and off a couple of times in a second
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Couple of times in a second? I'm not a Flash man Or Shelden Cooper
Just tried but didn't work.

Short circuited battery? Hopefully it wasn't in the phone. Battery is dead, get Anker.

tinky1 said:
Short circuited battery? Hopefully it wasn't in the phone. Battery is dead, get Anker.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already ordered stock battery. When Anker is available to Europe I will order it too.

Figure_desire said:
Already ordered stock battery. When Anker is available to Europe I will order it too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then buy the chichitek one, it's awesome and lasts just as long as the anker, if not longer, and they ship to europe! i got two chichitek batteries+ charger for 25$ usd inc shipping to norway

Prolonging battery life

One of the things I have noticed scouring the internet for tips on battery life prolongation, is that you end up with lots of contradictory advice coming from unreferenced (and often, unresearched) sources. (Note that by 'prolonging', I mean both prolonging the current battery cycle, and also, how to prolong the battery in the long term).
One big question is how you should be recharging it. For example:
Do you let the battery go down low, and then recharge it back to full?
Do you only do partial discharges, and always keep the battery topped up?
When available, is it better to work plugged in?
There are two helpful articles, both from the Battery University, which seems reliable and they have nice experimental data.
[1] Charging lithium batteries
[2] How to prolong lithium batteries
From what I gather, the answer to the above questions are as follows:
Full discharges will reduce the number of recharge cycles in your battery. For example, going to 100% discharge only gives a battery with 500 discharges, while going to 10% discharge gives a battery with 4700 discharges. Note that this advice contradicts other 'unreferenced' sources, like here:
Change your charging pattern: Most of us have the habit of charging the phone quite often even when the phone has enough battery left on it. It’s always better to leave the battery to discharge completely to say like 20% and only then recharge it. This way your battery will not only also last longer but also has longer life.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is better to note recharge to full
Li-ion does not need to be fully charged, as is the case with lead acid, nor is it desirable to do so. In fact, it is better not to fully charge, because high voltages stresses the battery. Choosing a lower voltage threshold, or eliminating the saturation charge altogether, prolongs battery life but this reduces the runtime. Since the consumer market promotes maximum runtime, these chargers go for maximum capacity rather than extended service life.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
However, I admit that this is a fairly PITA rule to implement. It would be impractical to always charge only to, say 80%. I think this rule, in practice, advises against charging all the way to 100% because then your charger may put in the topping charge (how many chargers do this?)
It is better to not leave devices plugged into wall charges.
Some portable devices sit in a charge cradle in the on position. The current drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and can distort the charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic load because it induces mini-cycles. The battery is continuously being discharged to 4.20V/cell and then charged by the device. The stress level on the battery is especially high because the cycles occur at the 4.20V/cell threshold.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A portable device must be turned off during charge.
This allows the battery to reach the set threshold voltage unhindered, and enables terminating charge on low current. A parasitic load confuses the charger by depressing the battery voltage and preventing the current in the saturation stage to drop low. A battery may be fully charged, but the prevailing conditions prompt a continued charge. This causes undue battery stress and compromises safety.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This, however, spawns two further questions:
What about USB charging? Because USB charging is slower (due to a lower amperage), is there any advantage to working with your tablet plugged into a USB drive? Is this better than discharging the battery?
I work with my laptop plugged in all the time. Partly, there is nothing I can do about it (Macbooks no longer allow easy removable of the battery). This means that on top of the heat degrading the battery, one must contend with the battery contunually being charged. What are the safeguards in place? I would imagine a smart charging system would lower the voltage and amperage when a laptop is plugged in.

I remember when I used a iPhone that one cycle includes partial charges and discharges like if you charge 10% and then another 20% and so on you ad those until you get 100% of a cycle, this was according to apple. That's why you can get your battery dead in one year and half (since they promises 450ish battery cycles )

Inntresting reading...
Sent from HTC Sensation, Elegancia ROM Series....

Hey, thanks for this, man. Good tips. I don't want to go abusing the batteries of all those shiny new Christmas gadgets.

Thanks very useful tips

Yes for li-ion you never want it to fully discharge.
Rift

I like the research you did here very nice. I have an EVO and that thing can't hold a charge for anything. I have like three batteries (two that come with wall chargers) just so I know I'm not going to run out of juice when I need it. I could leave everything off like mobile data, wifi, etc but then why do I have a fancy smancy phone then to begin with I want to use the damn thing. The battery is my only real issue I have with this magnificent phone. Thanks for taking the time to do some research on the subject.

Thanks for the tips. Battery is important than CPU now as for UX is concerned.

battery management
i found the battery manager from Market Place really useful for my I9000 Galaxy S on ICS

thanks for the good information

Thanks for this news

If your worried about power "cleanliness" you could always get a power conditioner to guarantee level output.
Now with batteries being able to be replaced easy enough (droid user) and with in my price point I don't give it too much thought.

Thanks for the great info, should be a big help

Glad I have insurance.... battery dies, they give me a new one!-

3G or 2G
Had someone checked, if using 2G instead of 3G giving the much better battery life?

If you are asking if you get more battery life with 2G than 3G, I think it's the same. The battery life should be less if you have the option "use 2G/3G preferred" because the phone searches simultaneously for 2G and 3G frequencies

Now that you bring that up, has anybody compared 3g to 4G battery life?

Thanks for the tips. It really does get confusing when coming to batteries.

Thank you for the advice

i agree...and have found this all true in my own studys and doings

[GUIDE] How to prolong the life of your Li-Ion battery

First off this isn't a guide about how to make your battery last longer between charges, at least it isn't yet. If a demand arises I will happily facilitate. *EDIT* For simplicity's sake I am including a link to V7's battery guide which addresses increasing the time between charges. ✭[GUIDE][26-07-2016]Extreme Battery Life Thread(Greenify+Amplify+Power Nap)✭This guide is about reducing wear that happens from many thing we all either knowingly do; out of a possible misunderstanding, or ignorance. All of this information is available doing a simple Google search, I am posting it here though for those who otherwise would not think to Google it. Furthermore I claim credit for absolutely none of this, but I do hope you find it helpful.
HOW TO PROLONG YOUR Li-Ion BATTERY'S LIFE​
1) Keep your battery at room temperature: Heat is the worst enemy of your cell phones battery. So keeping your battery at room temperature (65-75*F) is the first step towards prolonging your battery's life. According to Battery University
each 8°C (15°F) rise in temperature cuts the life of a sealed lead acid battery in half.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They also go on further adding
Once the battery is damaged by heat, the capacity cannot be restored.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are many things you can do to keep your battery cooler, such as taking it off the charger when the phone is done charging, and avoiding prolonged continuous usage. Also avoid leaving your phone in your car, it gets upwards of 140* in a car during the summer. The worst thing that can happen to a Li-Ion battery is a full charge and high heat, so avoid charging your phone until your car has cooled off if you are charging your battery in the car. Heat is by far the greatest factor when it comes to reducing the lifespan of a Li-Ion battery.
2) Use partial-discharge cycles: According to lancair.net
Using only 20% or 30% of the battery capacity before recharging will extend cycle life considerably
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Other sites I read while researching this stated that users should use up to 80% of their energy before recharging, they were all consistent with regards to a few things including: avoiding full discharges will prolong battery life, and it takes several partial charges to use one full charge cycle. Additionally Li-Ion batteries do not have "charge memory", but your digital device most likely does. Discharging the battery until cut off after every 30 charge cycles re calibrates the devices gauge.
3) Avoid keeping your battery at 100%: Every source I referenced for this guide said the same thing about keeping your battery at a full capacity, but oranageinks.com explains it most simply by stating
Permanent capacity loss is greatest at elevated temperatures with the battery voltage maintained at maximum (fully charged).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
4) If you are going to store your battery for an extended period store it at about 50% charged: This goes hand-in-hand with number 3. Also keeping the battery cool during extended storage will slow deterioration. Keeping the battery in a sealed bag or tupperware in your refrigerator is okay, but storing your battery in the freezer is not. When a battery is fully charged oxidation is occurring at its highest rate, and oxidation is essential corrosion. Oxidation occurs whether the battery is in use or not, for this reason it is better to get a high capacity battery rather than a spare. So with this said it almost should go without saying that if you can, buy batteries with a recent manufacture date.
5) Avoid completely discharging your battery: Lancair.com states:
Very deep discharges will quickly, permanently damage a Li-ion battery. Internal metal plating can occur causing a short circuit, making the battery unusable and unsafe. Most Li-ion batteries have protection circuitry within their battery packs that open the battery connection if the battery voltage is less than 2.5 V or exceeds 4.3 V, or if the battery current exceeds a predefined threshold level when charging or is charging
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you found this helpful please don't forget to hit the "Thanks" button

now that explain why my battery drain so fast,my phone temperature is a bit high these days,thank you :good

I decrease my battry drain with installing som suitable kernal
this way realy effective in my device battry mangement

You're absolutely right, and you hit the nail on the head,
Saeedblack said:
realy[sic] effective in my device battry[sic] mangement
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But the physical battery itself needs care too. Device battery management is more related to how much power the CPU sees that the device has. Understanding how a Li-Ion battery works is kinda important at this point. So basically the positive electrode is made of Lithium cobalt oxide (cathode), or LiCoO2. The negative electrode is made of carbon (anode). When the battery is charging, ions of lithium move through the electrolyte from the positive electrode to the negative electrode and attach to the carbon. During discharge, the lithium ions move back to the LiCoO2 from the carbon. Over time the Lithium ions bond to the carbon thereby restricting the flow, creating resistance which decreases the battery's ability to deliver current. So properly caring for your battery is really the only thing that will slow the inevitable. Its kinda the same thing for a car...all cars eventually die, but if you take care of them they will last much longer than if you neglect them.

Thanks for this. It's not the usually same guide for battery improvementent.
My battery life got a little better.

Thanks mate, that's some good information.

Hi.
Just wondering:
in "5) Avoid completely discharging your battery"
Most battery calibration softwares say you SHOULD fully discharge your battery then fully charge it for a good calibration.
So, someone like me, who likes to try new roms, new nightlys all the time, are "slowly" burning the battery to ashes by calibrating it after every flash.

It looks like running the processor faster than specified (overclocking) can result in higher temperatures inside the device and faster battery wear as a result.

azraelus said:
Hi.
Just wondering:
in "5) Avoid completely discharging your battery"
Most battery calibration softwares say you SHOULD fully discharge your battery then fully charge it for a good calibration.
So, someone like me, who likes to try new roms, new nightlys all the time, are "slowly" burning the battery to ashes by calibrating it after every flash.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YES you are slowly burning the battery out, by draining it after every flash. The battery is going to die inevitably anyways though, most of the sources I found suggest doing a "full drain" every 30 charge cycles. Perhaps this is when you should go ahead and do your battery calibration. Also a full drain is not exactly self-explanatory in this case. Your device may say that a battery has 1% of its energy left and to an extent it does, but the battery is designed to cut off before it gets too hot or too low. If you have a tendency to cut your phone back on after it dies then you will deplete the battery completely, possibly resulting in permanent damage.
adrian816 said:
It looks like running the processor faster than specified (overclocking) can result in higher temperatures inside the device and faster battery wear as a result.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes O/C can raise temperatures of the device. Certain kernels run a little hotter than others. My device is currently O/C'd and isn't any hotter than normal when I am not using the device due to CPU governors and what not, and its only marginally hotter than it is when at the stock clock speed. Prolonged heavy use takes a toll on the battery, due to the heat its creating. Also don't let the little bit of heat increase stop you from O/C'ing your device. Many manufacturers use the same cpu with different clock speeds, EX Snapdragon S3 chip is used in the EVO 3D @ 1.2GHz, and the HTC Rezound @ 1.5GHZ from the factory. This is done to reduce power consumption on power hungry phones or to extend the life of a cpu that has proven itself reliable(such as in the example of the Snapdragon S3)...it also helps to market devices without spending more on development.

Good adwise! :good:

This is all very good advice. A lot of it I knew, but I learned a couple new things as well. Glad to see someone making it more easily available to our community!
Sent from my SGH-I777 using xda app-developers app

Found this same information when researching my netbook battery.Turns out there is a good reason it will sleep/hybernate/power off at 3 percent, can damage a cell. On the upside this one will charge faster.

Thanks for the information.
Sent from my GT-S5360 using Tapatalk 2

Oh god, by "avoiding keep it at 100%" you mean "don't use it constantly while charging", right?
I have a seriously problem.

Wish I could do something about #1. My phone can get pretty hot when I'm using it and I like to do a lot of things like playing games or dling torrents which gets it toasty.
Will definitely unplug before 100% from now on though. Thanks

Jane Shizuka said:
Oh god, by "avoiding keep it at 100%" you mean "don't use it constantly while charging", right?
I have a seriously problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea that's pretty much the gist of it...heavy use while charging creates even more heat than just heavy use or just charging. Since doing the research for this thread I've been doing things a little differently myself. Instead of leaving it on the charger most of the day I charge it at night and use it til about 50% then charge it up to 80%...it may be in my head but I highly doubt it. Doing as I described I have had 1 full charge (from 40% to 100%) and a top off charge (50% to 80%) and my device has been on since yesterday morning (so 36 hours+ with only a 30% top off charge). This is with moderate use, and my phone is currently at 70%...MUCH better than before though.
This guide is still meant more for longer term physical battery care, but it appears to have helped extend time between charges.
zlc1 said:
Wish I could do something about #1. My phone can get pretty hot when I'm using it and I like to do a lot of things like playing games or dling torrents which gets it toasty.
Will definitely unplug before 100% from now on though. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try a different kernel, or underclocking your phone, that should help with the heat.

Thanks, I'll keep this in mind!

Thanks for the advice, but i thought discharge it completely wont do any harm to the battery since the protection circuit will stop at around 3..0-3.4 mV?

ryanshady said:
Thanks for the advice, but i thought discharge it completely wont do any harm to the battery since the protection circuit will stop at around 3..0-3.4 mV?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is about the point the device will cut off, but if you turn it back on like I used to until the device won't turn back on that's when the battery is completely discharged. Battery University goes on to say
Each cycle wears the battery down by a small amount. A partial discharge before charge is better than a full discharge. Apply a deliberate full discharge only to calibrate a smart battery and to prevent “memory” on a nickel-based pack.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Link to article HERE
*EDIT*

i wish there's a way to stop charging once it reaches 85-95% like my laptop...