Related
Just letting people know that the Parrot CK3000 car kit works great with my XDA2. It only uses "headset" mode, so functionality is limited, but it routes the calls through the car speakers and mutes the stereo, so that's all you can really ask.
On my Alfa, I couldn't use the standard ISO connectors, as the car has a separate amplifier in the boot, but chopping the ISO connectors off and connecting the wires separately to the "telephone in" connectors on the back of the radio worked just fine. I can even adjust the volume of the phone call via the steering wheel audio controls!
There's a reassuring "beep" when I turn on the ignition to let youknow tha the devices have bonded and every few days, something goes skewey on the PDA and I have to do a soft-reset to make the bluetooth bond work again, but otherwise, it works fine.
I've put an icon on my PDA for the warm-reset, so that I can do it easily in the car if I realise that it hasn't bonded automatically.
The only real glitch I've found is that if you get to your destination whilst still on the phone, I can't find any way to transfer the call back to the handset without terminating the call - any help on that would be gratefully appreciated.
Good to hear it works, I have a CK3300 with the BT GPS Functionality on route for review.
In asnwer to your question, to hand over the BT headset call to the phone just tap the 'Headphone' Icon on the status bar of the XDA.
Darren,
Funnily enough, I was just outside in the car experimenting when you replied.
Sure enough, if you tap the headphone icon on the PDA, the call is successfully transferred back to the PDA and you can carry on the call directly on the PDA.
If you then press the green button on the car kit, the call will also transfer back to the car kit again.
But - Here's my last issue - If you get into the car with a call already in progress on the PDA and then turn on the car ignition, the car kit beeps to confirm that it has bonded, but I can't find any way to actually transfer the open call to the car kit....
Finally - I've come to the XDA forum for a break from Pocketgps.co.uk! I usually spend my evenings on your site. Tonight, for the first time in weeks, I thought that I'd go and seek other company. Who should be the first to reply to my post here but you!
You're going to tell me now that you also drive an Alfa and that you too frequent the alfaowner.com site as well aren't you!!!
Cheers Darren.
Ah well you see we obviously share a passion for gadgets but not Alfa's, current car is an X-Type shortly to be replaced by a Discovery and yes I spend time at both of their owners ites as well (Note to self, need to get out more!).
I think I'm correct in saying that you can't hand over an active call to a BT Handsfree be it headset or car-kit, I suspect this is a limitation of the XDA's BT Stack (thanks Microsoft NOT!)
I shall leave you in peace now, you've probably had enough of my ramblings back at home base ;')
Is this the same kit: http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=PAR_CK3000
There is also an upgrade http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=FLS-KIT but it doesn't say what you get for your £45.
Any ideas?
alfiejts said:
But - Here's my last issue - If you get into the car with a call already in progress on the PDA and then turn on the car ignition, the car kit beeps to confirm that it has bonded, but I can't find any way to actually transfer the open call to the car kit....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hit the green button on the carkit, that should do it.
If not, install the XDA2 Bluetooth tool, and retry...
Nope - Green button is documented as being the way to do this for most phones, but it doesn't work with my XDA2....
I did try to install Bluetooth tools ut then couldn't get the devide to pair with the Parrott at all, so I hastily removed them.....
I'll think that I'll live with as it is, now that everything else is stable and works OK....
Well, I wouldn't be in as deep of a trouble if this were my phone... But I suggested the Mini to my GF.
Anyway, she was using headset earlier today and after she removed the headset, the phone is stuck in headset mode. Meaning no voice coming thru the phone's earpiece on both incoming and outgoing calls. She tried the headset again and voice is coming thru headset without problem, but once removed, it's still stuck. How do I get the phone out of headset mode please???? Anyone has similar problem before??? Please help!!!
Reply
hey hi ,
There are many ways of fixing this -
1)softreset
2)turn bluetooth off! if you are talking about bluetooth headset
3)where it says enable bluetooth headset on today screen - disable it
These might help you!
Regards
AMD
The socket has probably jammed internally, try insert pull out a few times making sure you pull sharply when removing, if this fails try inserting something slightly smaller and jiggling it about. I have also used a tiny squirt of WD40 which is like an easing oil for rusted or obstinate nuts/bolts/screws, also you can buy a spray called switchgear which is used for electronic components such as volume sliders/switches etc when they become sticky and operate intermittently. This is a well known problem on the xda 2.
Thanks guys, it's not BT and this is after many soft-reset I'll give WD-40 a shot. Thanks again!
I've got exactly the same problem here. My phone is bonded to a BT headset. Forgot to bring the headset and found that no sound, or extremely small volume, was coming out from the phone. Tried soft reset, deleting the bond etc. none of it works.
Would be interested in knowing what's the real underlying cause if anyone finds it out.
Hey Solitary, I'm in HK as well and I think it's a hardward rather than software issue. Coz. if I pull the headset, the normal clicking sounds can be heard from the phone, just not during voice calls, I think the earphone on the phone is somehow dead, looks to me like cold soldering
I'm calling O2 in the morning and demand an exchange, my GF only had this phone since 1/9 and besides this, on the unit we have, the voice quailty is also bad too
Hi, CL55,
You might want to read this:
http://www.coolsmartphone.com/index.php?option=articles&task=viewarticle&artid=58&Itemid=3
It seems it is an old and common problem for smartphones.
I've also read in a Taiwan forum that they have got exactly the same problem in Taiwan for the Dopod818.
But I wonder if it is hardware related. My problem is that I'm stuck in a BT headset mode, and I'd never touched the hardware headset socket. So either I have a different problem than yours or else it seems it's more likely a software problem.
Anyway, do tell us if you manage to solve it.
Can you confirm if you can hear the clicking sound from the buildin speaker now? Only no voice from the earphone, or no clicking sound from the buildin speaker as well? I really suspect I have a different problem
Yes I can hear all other sounds from the speaker loud and clear, except for talking over the phone.
So it seems I've got a BT software (or my BT phone hardware) problem but you've got a Mini hardware problem.
I was listening to some music through my headphones on my jam and I got a call, so i pulled the headphones out of the jack. Once i did that no sound would come out of the speakers, not even after many soft resets. I could still hear sound when i put my headphones back in, but nothing when i took them out. Then i tried making a call and pulling the headphones out of the jack while in the call and that fixed it. It must put the hardware in some bad state if you pull headphones out when there's a call?
i had this problem to but i've fixed it! hard resets doesn't seem to work so i pulled the battery out for a night and my speaker was working again try it!
I'm having trouble with my Jabra BT250v and my Fuze. The Jabra always worked perfectly with my Nokia phone so I don't believe it's a problem with the unit. The first oddity I noticed is that it paired automatically without asking for a code. After researching this I found out that the new Bluetooth driver does this by design with non secure items like headsets and such by trying a series of commonly used codes like "0000", "1234". That's all good and well, and it does seem to pair up, but I've read that other devices have trouble being bombarded with codes like that and even though it shows up as paired, it doesn't work. I'm not sure if this is the cause of my problem or not, but is the only obvious thing I could pick out.
I've tried putting the ear piece back into the charging cradle to reset it before trying to pair it. I've tried the standard pairing procedure by turning the device on by holding the power button for 8+ seconds until the light goes solid. I've tried the alternate method of holding both the power and volume up button to pair it in the handsfree mode. I've manually set it to handsfree mode once the device is listed on the phone. I'm really out of things to try to get this going.
Basically it pairs and all looks good but I don't get any sound out of the unit and trying to initiate a call or redial does nothing. The phone just keeps going as if it never paired up at all. I'm hoping someone has some more ideas I could try as I would really like to get this working. I wasn't sure if there was a way to just re-install the Bluetooth stack, or even an alternate Bluetooth driver I could try. If it does have something to do with the auto-pairing feature, does anyone know how to disable this? I'm willing to try damn near anything that can help me pinpoint the problem. I haven't been able to locate any Bluetooth troubleshooting tools and even looked at the service manual, but they just put it through a simple test and it doesn't delve into anything deeper.
Lastly I should mention that I am able to use Active Sync over Bluetooth with my laptop and it does ask for a pairing code so I'm really stumped. I guess it is a possibility that the Jabra is messing up since I last used it with my Nokia about 2 weeks ago, it just seems highly unlikely. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Many Thanks,
Eidolen
*******Edit: I was able to resolve most of the issues I've been experiencing with my Android Unit. *******
Incorrect Time- I needed to update my firmware, as suggested by users in the forum. The seller was able to send me an updated version at the time.
SWC- My resolution mentioned down below. I may change it back to CAN key and see if the CANBUS connection issue I had was the real culprit.
Random Power cycling- User error. I didn't realize I didn't plug the power cable completely into the unit.
A/C Display- I have @brettf to thank for this. I initially switched cables like he mentioned below, but found they didn't work THE FIRST TIME I did this, so I switched the cables back to their original [incorrect] positions. The second time around, ie. yesterday, I decided to try it again, but this time, I took into account my CANBUS settings. I changed the CANBUS controls to the last ACCORD_7(Chan........) setting and it finally worked for my system. So, now I understand what most users have been talking about in regards to the temperature only being in Celsius. If there's a fix for this that I may have missed, I'd highly appreciate it.
GPS signal- Lol unintentional user error this time, without realizing I even made a mistake. My unit wasn't labeled with which SMA connector was which for the GPS antenna or Bluetooth antenna, so I had accidentally switched them around during my initial installation. I decided to actually take a look at the diagram on AliBaba's seller page and lo and behold, they were indeed switched around. Previously, it would take over 5 minutes for a signal to be fixed and there was no guarantee it would be stable even on a clear day, but after the switch, the GPS signal is strong and fixes immediately to a signal now.
Bluetooth - Even though I'm not an audiophile, the music played from A2DP sounds even better following the aforementioned sma switch around. Tbh, I'm not tech savvy enough to understand how either the GPS or bluetooth have been working at all after all this time since my initial installation, but it works like it's supposed to now.
Mic- I ordered another external mic, so whenever it comes in, I'll try to update and see if there are any improvements with the quality, as I've realized my old mic sounded "distant" before when it was connected to my iSimple device.
Initial issue mentioned below:
Hello. I recently purchased this Seicane unit:
[Alibaba (**dot**) com/product/62132856562/10-1-Inch-Android-9-0.html?tracelog=null
I've been having the usual issues that I kind of anticipated with these Chinese head units *(ie. time was not set correctly when I initially installed it but I was able to fix it with an update, steering wheel controls no longer work(fixed), climate settings I press on the unit do not display on the screen but the A/C still works (fixed), just to name a few examples). But one problem I didn't anticipate was, my unit continuously reboots/powers off after I turn on the car and/or the screen may not come on unless I turn the ignition on and off again (fixed). With that being said, the Bluetooth cuts in and out as well and microphone quality is subpar at best, even after using an external mic from a previous isimple unit used with my original navigation unit.
So far, I honestly like this Seicane unit and I don't have buyer's remorse, but these little annoyances are starting to add up. Is there anyway I can fix these issues, especially the annoying rebooting? Thank you.
I recorded what I'm talking about earlier after work today:
youtu (**dot**) be/VvQnOBJGmWM
Anything at all?
chewybits95 said:
Anything at all?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried returning it, or lodging a dispute with the reseller?
marchnz said:
Have you tried returning it, or lodging a dispute with the reseller?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't want to go that route yet until I troubleshoot it myself. Plus, shipping to China is expensive, so that'll be my last ditch solution if I'm not able to figure out these menial issues.
Others here have experienced these problems you should be able to find their threads. From what I've read before the rebooting was linked to the HU losing internet access but those were units with a SIM card port. Setting airplane mode helped when they had no SIM and/or were connected to the phone hotspot. But if there's a problem with a SIM in relocating the antennas was needed otherwise the unit needs repair.
For the HVAC display you need a CANbus decoder specific to your car. It's not unusual for a seller to not include it unless you told them you need it. You have to be very literal and specific with them. One guy received the wrong one and only fixed it by convincing another seller (Dasaita) to sell him one. In your case it worked before and no more after the update then you may need to try different settings in the CANbus menu. Did you get your update from Seicane? If not you should ask them for one.
nic2k said:
...
For the HVAC display you need a CANbus decoder specific to your car. It's not unusual for a seller to not include it unless you told them you need it. You have to be very literal and specific with them. One guy received the wrong one and only fixed it by convincing another seller (Dasaita) to sell him one. In your case it worked before and no more after the update then you may need to try different settings in the CANbus menu. Did you get your update from Seicane? If not you should ask them for one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think this is the case here. I have the same unit as OP.
Check this thread regarding the Climate Control display issue: https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...1-android-8-2003-accord-t3923783/post79786553
brettf said:
I don't think this is the case here. I have the same unit as OP.
Check this thread regarding the Climate Control display issue: https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...1-android-8-2003-accord-t3923783/post79786553
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How would I go about actually changing the wires around though? Do I just pull them out of the harness? Lol, I'm not an electrician, so I would prefer not to break the unit.
I may have figured out the rebooting issue: when I went back to finally check the back of the unit, I found the power cable with the blue harness wasn't completely connected to the unit. Whoops, lol!
I'll test it out whenever I drive my accord again and see if this definitely fixed the rebooting issue.
chewybits95 said:
How would I go about actually changing the wires around though? Do I just pull them out of the harness? Lol, I'm not an electrician, so I would prefer not to break the unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just pop them out of the connector. There's a little tab on the metal bit inside the connector. If you press it and pull the wire softly, it will pop out.
brettf said:
Just pop them out of the connector. There's a little tab on the metal bit inside the connector. If you press it and pull the wire softly, it will pop out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was able to pop them out like you mentioned, but no changes. Luckily the a/c still works, so I guess I'll just leave it as is for now... Thank you for the guidance.
Follow up- so I was able to diagnose and fix the majority of the issues I listed thanks to you guys.
In terms of the steering wheel controls, Seicane's engineers failed to switch the steering wheel control settings in the factory settings to "SWC keys" before shipping it out. I found this setting only after attempting to install a universal SWC remote myself, so now I was able to retain both my original controls and the newly installed remote, which is a nice addition now. If you guys ever have issues with the car's original SWC settings when installing your unit, check your settings by going to:
CAR (Driving, navigation some settings) -> Factory Settings (passcode 126) -> Other -> Steering wheel keys assign -> ***Switch to SWC Keys if it's set to Can key***
Note- I'm not sure if the settings will differ per android software, but my unit is Android 9.0
chewybits95 said:
I was able to pop them out like you mentioned, but no changes. Luckily the a/c still works, so I guess I'll just leave it as is for now... Thank you for the guidance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should also make sure your car profile is "116 Accord 7" under factory settings - canbus
chewybits95 said:
*******Edit: I was able to resolve most of the issues I've been experiencing with my Android Unit. *******
Incorrect Time- I needed to update my firmware, as suggested by users in the forum. The seller was able to send me an updated version at the time.
SWC- My resolution mentioned down below. I may change it back to CAN key and see if the CANBUS connection issue I had was the real culprit.
Random Power cycling- User error. I didn't realize I didn't plug the power cable completely into the unit.
A/C Display- I have @brettf to thank for this. I initially switched cables like he mentioned below, but found they didn't work THE FIRST TIME I did this, so I switched the cables back to their original [incorrect] positions. The second time around, ie. yesterday, I decided to try it again, but this time, I took into account my CANBUS settings. I changed the CANBUS controls to the last ACCORD_7(Chan........) setting and it finally worked for my system. So, now I understand what most users have been talking about in regards to the temperature only being in Celsius. If there's a fix for this that I may have missed, I'd highly appreciate it.
GPS signal- Lol unintentional user error this time, without realizing I even made a mistake. My unit wasn't labeled with which SMA connector was which for the GPS antenna or Bluetooth antenna, so I had accidentally switched them around during my initial installation. I decided to actually take a look at the diagram on AliBaba's seller page and lo and behold, they were indeed switched around. Previously, it would take over 5 minutes for a signal to be fixed and there was no guarantee it would be stable even on a clear day, but after the switch, the GPS signal is strong and fixes immediately to a signal now.
Bluetooth - Even though I'm not an audiophile, the music played from A2DP sounds even better following the aforementioned sma switch around. Tbh, I'm not tech savvy enough to understand how either the GPS or bluetooth have been working at all after all this time since my initial installation, but it works like it's supposed to now.
Mic- I ordered another external mic, so whenever it comes in, I'll try to update and see if there are any improvements with the quality, as I've realized my old mic sounded "distant" before when it was connected to my iSimple device.
Initial issue mentioned below:
Hello. I recently purchased this Seicane unit:
[Alibaba (**dot**) com/product/62132856562/10-1-Inch-Android-9-0.html?tracelog=null
I've been having the usual issues that I kind of anticipated with these Chinese head units *(ie. time was not set correctly when I initially installed it but I was able to fix it with an update, steering wheel controls no longer work(fixed), climate settings I press on the unit do not display on the screen but the A/C still works (fixed), just to name a few examples). But one problem I didn't anticipate was, my unit continuously reboots/powers off after I turn on the car and/or the screen may not come on unless I turn the ignition on and off again (fixed). With that being said, the Bluetooth cuts in and out as well and microphone quality is subpar at best, even after using an external mic from a previous isimple unit used with my original navigation unit.
So far, I honestly like this Seicane unit and I don't have buyer's remorse, but these little annoyances are starting to add up. Is there anyway I can fix these issues, especially the annoying rebooting? Thank you.
I recorded what I'm talking about earlier after work today:
youtu (**dot**) be/VvQnOBJGmWM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad I could help!
chewybits95 said:
Follow up- so I was able to diagnose and fix the majority of the issues I listed thanks to you guys.
In terms of the steering wheel controls, Seicane's engineers failed to switch the steering wheel control settings in the factory settings to "SWC keys" before shipping it out. I found this setting only after attempting to install a universal SWC remote myself, so now I was able to retain both my original controls and the newly installed remote, which is a nice addition now. If you guys ever have issues with the car's original SWC settings when installing your unit, check your settings by going to:
CAR (Driving, navigation some settings) -> Factory Settings (passcode 126) -> Other -> Steering wheel keys assign -> ***Switch to SWC Keys if it's set to Can key***
Note- I'm not sure if the settings will differ per android software, but my unit is Android 9.0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IF i switch to SWC Key, i cant assign the keys anymore
Solutions?
EGOiST1991 said:
IF i switch to SWC Key, i cant assign the keys anymore
Solutions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Switch it back to Can Key and see if it you assign the key configurations.
SWC worked before I figured out the two CANBUS wires needed to be switched around but I don't feel the need to test if this will work in my car, so see if that may help.
Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
CanBus works fine. Every Function works on the 78 Protokoll. Only the Steering Wheel buttons get a "double Input" but i only press once.
And if i switch to protokoll 46 the Steering Wheel Button works perfect but everything else from canbus does not work (Settings for the car)
chewybits95 said:
*******Edit: I was able to resolve most of the issues I've been experiencing with my Android Unit. *******
Incorrect Time- I needed to update my firmware, as suggested by users in the forum. The seller was able to send me an updated version at the time.
SWC- My resolution mentioned down below. I may change it back to CAN key and see if the CANBUS connection issue I had was the real culprit.
Random Power cycling- User error. I didn't realize I didn't plug the power cable completely into the unit.
A/C Display- I have @brettf to thank for this. I initially switched cables like he mentioned below, but found they didn't work THE FIRST TIME I did this, so I switched the cables back to their original [incorrect] positions. The second time around, ie. yesterday, I decided to try it again, but this time, I took into account my CANBUS settings. I changed the CANBUS controls to the last ACCORD_7(Chan........) setting and it finally worked for my system. So, now I understand what most users have been talking about in regards to the temperature only being in Celsius. If there's a fix for this that I may have missed, I'd highly appreciate it.
GPS signal- Lol unintentional user error this time, without realizing I even made a mistake. My unit wasn't labeled with which SMA connector was which for the GPS antenna or Bluetooth antenna, so I had accidentally switched them around during my initial installation. I decided to actually take a look at the diagram on AliBaba's seller page and lo and behold, they were indeed switched around. Previously, it would take over 5 minutes for a signal to be fixed and there was no guarantee it would be stable even on a clear day, but after the switch, the GPS signal is strong and fixes immediately to a signal now.
Bluetooth - Even though I'm not an audiophile, the music played from A2DP sounds even better following the aforementioned sma switch around. Tbh, I'm not tech savvy enough to understand how either the GPS or bluetooth have been working at all after all this time since my initial installation, but it works like it's supposed to now.
Mic- I ordered another external mic, so whenever it comes in, I'll try to update and see if there are any improvements with the quality, as I've realized my old mic sounded "distant" before when it was connected to my iSimple device.
Initial issue mentioned below:
Hello. I recently purchased this Seicane unit:
[Alibaba (**dot**) com/product/62132856562/10-1-Inch-Android-9-0.html?tracelog=null
I've been having the usual issues that I kind of anticipated with these Chinese head units *(ie. time was not set correctly when I initially installed it but I was able to fix it with an update, steering wheel controls no longer work(fixed), climate settings I press on the unit do not display on the screen but the A/C still works (fixed), just to name a few examples). But one problem I didn't anticipate was, my unit continuously reboots/powers off after I turn on the car and/or the screen may not come on unless I turn the ignition on and off again (fixed). With that being said, the Bluetooth cuts in and out as well and microphone quality is subpar at best, even after using an external mic from a previous isimple unit used with my original navigation unit.
So far, I honestly like this Seicane unit and I don't have buyer's remorse, but these little annoyances are starting to add up. Is there anyway I can fix these issues, especially the annoying rebooting? Thank you.
I recorded what I'm talking about earlier after work today:
youtu (**dot**) be/VvQnOBJGmWM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The chassis was touching bare wires for random **** I didn't have so it kept resetting. Took me an hour to figure it out. You don't need to spend money just get some tape and make sure all the wires are connected or covered
Ahardyg93 said:
The chassis was touching bare wires for random **** I didn't have so it kept resetting. Took me an hour to figure it out. You don't need to spend money just get some tape and make sure all the wires are connected or covered
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol 420 tho I was smoking too
hello friends, I was wondering if you can help me, my CANbus looks like its working and the steering wheel works too, however, the stereo reboots every 3-4 minutes... the thing is that if I connect something it gets frozen, and a couple of seconds it reboots, if I open an app it gets frozen, if I click on any button of the stereo it will work one or three times but then it gets frozen and reboots it again, I'm not able to listen to anything because the stereo reboots all the time many times... I tried with android 9 same error I updated to android 10 still the error, please can you help me with some ideas, I really believe it is a hardware issue and not software. regards
Hi, I have a Chinese android head unit, I've fitted it in my van, all good apart from the one thing I wanted...Android Auto. Allegedly it's come with Android Auto installed. My phone and cable work fine in my car, and Auto connect to Android Auto, but not on this Android head unit I've fitted. I naively thought I could plug my phone in and it automatically start up but nothing happens, everything else on the head unit, I've worked out, and is fine. It's probably a set up problem, I'm wondering about an APL file, but I just don't know what to do and the instructions that came with it are not much help, I would appreciate a point in the right direction pls
Scrapman326 said:
Hi, I have a Chinese android head unit, I've fitted it in my van, all good apart from the one thing I wanted...Android Auto. Allegedly it's come with Android Auto installed. My phone and cable work fine in my car, and Auto connect to Android Auto, but not on this Android head unit I've fitted. I naively thought I could plug my phone in and it automatically start up but nothing happens, everything else on the head unit, I've worked out, and is fine. It's probably a set up problem, I'm wondering about an APL file, but I just don't know what to do and the instructions that came with it are not much help, I would appreciate a point in the right direction pls
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I meant APK file, I've seen them but don't know what to do (if that is the issue)
Is it an FYT unit. Post Android system information including MCU version
@marchnz is right. Tell us what you have. There are a lot of different units.
Scrapman326 said:
I meant APK file, I've seen them but don't know what to do (if that is the issue)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It does not work automatically on these Chinese head utnits.
You first have to pair it to bluetooth.
Then you connect it via USB.
Then you start the z-link or carlink app, whatever it is called on your unit (and that is why we need to know what your unit is).
Then it should work.
surfer63 said:
@marchnz is right. Tell us what you have. There are a lot of different units.
It does not work automatically on these Chinese head utnits.
You first have to pair it to bluetooth.
Then you connect it via USB.
Then you start the z-link or carlink app, whatever it is called on your unit (and that is why we need to know what your unit is).
Then it should work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I’ll find the Android version and MCU (whatever that is), bare with me, thanks for the response, Bluetooth is paired, I can make calls via the head unit that way, and I connect via USB just as I do in my car, I haven’t seen a link for zlink or the android auto logo ?, all my phone does when I plug in is charge, there are two usb sockets on the back of the unit, 4 wire and five wire, my DAB aerial is plugged in the 4 wire and is working ok, my phone is in the five wire USB, I did swap them round , it made no difference, I’ll come back with MCU and Android version, thanks again, it’s a Brosmartek XRC-T3 06FuTe (that’s exactly what’s on the box) if that helps. I’ve found previously that purchases such as this come with very, very basic instructions, virtually zero.
If I search on your Brosmartek XRC-T3, the adds say you need to download the EasyConnect.apk. Did you do that?
surfer63 said:
@marchnz is right. Tell us what you have. There are a lot of different units.
It does not work automatically on these Chinese head utnits.
You first have to pair it to bluetooth.
Then you connect it via USB.
Then you start the z-link or carlink app, whatever it is called on your unit (and that is why we need to know what your unit is).
Then it should work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I got it sorted, I hot spotted the unit off my phone and updated it, then I thought about z-link that you mentioned and recalled seeing Tlink5 ... I went into settings and changed from Google maps to the mysterious Tlink5 and hey presto...Tlink5 is required for Carplay and Android Auto. Everything is good now, such a shame that it's not in the instructions, then again what little instructions there was , was no help. Thanks for all your help, it was the Z-link mention that just got me wondering. "Tlink5"... who would have thought it.