Finally decided to update my old Android Newsmy Carpad NU3001 and went for a PX5 10.1" Universal 2Din found here (came with Android 9 not 8).
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32958291605.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2b0e4c4d5Be3B7
They only thing I can't get to completely work is the backup camera. Here is what I tired and the results which is something I never had a problem with in my other android car stereo. Here is a picture of the wiring diagram for reference.
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1. The Main wiring harness (K) has a "Back" (pink color) wire and Camera Video Input. Connected the camera to them and am getting weird results. When the car key is in the ON position or car is running, the camera works properly when in reverse, but when it's not in reverse, I get a blank screen with a big warning icon that I can't get rid of (maybe some safety precaution that I can't disable). In the software settings, I even went to Settings > Car > Factory Settings (which uses password 126) > Other > Prohibit Reverse > Disabled. But that totally stops the reverse camera from working. The odd thing is that when the car is in the ACC position, the PX5 doesn't get the blank screen with warning icon and the unit works, but of course the camera doesn't because the key isn't in the ON position.
2. Wiring harness (G) is a dedicated harness for Mic and Reverse Camera. There is a "Reverse" (pink color) wire, a Camera Video Input, and a "Camera B+" (yellow color) wire. Connected the camera to Reverse and Camera Video Input, but nothing. The unit works fine when the key is in ACC, ON, or car is running but the camera won't come on when in reverse.
Any help would gladly be appreciated. Spent one whole day trying to fix this with no luck.
What did the reseller advise when contacted for support? How have you validated the wiring?
marchnz said:
What did the reseller advise when contacted for support? How have you validated the wiring?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm still waiting on a reply, though these China resellers on Aliexpress area a hit and miss when it comes to support. As for validating the wiring, I can safely say that I validated everything and tried everything. The same setup worked flawlessly on my old Android unit. Here, it just isn't happening. If I can just find out why I am getting a blank screen with a yellow warning message when the car is in the ON position and remove it, I'll be all good.
jpapadami said:
If I can just find out why I am getting a blank screen with a yellow warning message when the car is in the ON position and remove it, I'll be all good.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As always, when I ask someone or somewhere, I end up solving my own problem. Well it looks like there was a +12v signal heading to the "Back" wire from the reverse lights. That's why when the car key was on the ON position it was tricking the headunit to think that the car was in reverse, but it wasn't. And that is why I was constantly getting the yellow warning exclamation screen.
All I had to do was add a third wire with a resistor (around 10k ohms or less) and ground it to the car stereo. Now everything works as normal.
Leaving this up in case someone else runs into this problem and needs a quick fix.
So you took the two positive red wires and solder a black ground wire to a 10k ohm resistor, and then soldered that wire to a ground on the radio?
That allowed the camera to come on when putting vehicle in reverse?
Related
I'm interested in getting a car dock, but so far all of the docks I've seen only connect to microusb to allow you to charge your phone. If you want to get audio out, you have to connect a cable to the 3.5mm jack. Has anyone seen a cable or adapter that allows you to both charge from a USB charger and has analog audio out so I can connect to my stereo? I am aware that microusb does not provide analog audio out, however the android accessory development kit does seem to support audio over usb, so the cable would need to have some DAC built in. However I can't seem to find any. The only option I've been able to figure out would be to buy a USB DAC intended for a PC, connect it via a USB OTG cable, and splice in my charger. But this seems cumbersome and expensive.
Thoughts?
This is something I am interested in as well, however, I really don't think there's any way a dumb adapter could accomplish it without a DAC, like you said.
Probably the smallest option would be something like this, but still expensive; and since it'd be OTG, probably a pain.
My current attempt is to DIY a POGO dock (using the contacts on the back of the phone) out of one of these.
According to some work these guys did the contacts can function for charging and audio out.
I'll let you know if anything ends up working.
Well, I got all my parts in... and ended in failure
(I forgot to take pictures during, but here are some after the fact...)
I started with a Kidigi car dock:
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It holds the phone fairly securely:
But there are three problems:
It looks to have been built for the international version, since the usb plug is about a millimeter out of place. This isn't a problem... unless you're trying to line up tiny pogo contacts.
If you remove the usb plug, the phone falls out of the dock, damn!
The usb plug is modified so it triggers car mode when plugged in.
Anyway, I decided to forge ahead.
I was able to determine where the pogos go by lubing up the back of the phone and pressing it into the dock with some duct seal in between.
The construction of the dock was extremely convenient for this project; it was made of three pieces.
Two pieces are screwed together, and one clips in depending on whether or not you have a case on your phone.
I drilled the clip in piece to just allow the end of the pogo through, but not the whole thing.
Then I drilled the other two a bit bigger to fit the whole pogo:
I put the pogos through:
And epoxied them in on the inside of the two screw-together pieces:
All the connections worked!
I temporarily tacked on some wires to the pogos and was able to charge the phone.
However, even after playing with a ton of different resistances, I wasn't able to convince the dock to output audio from the other contacts.
I didn't know if it was because I was on a sense 5 rom, so I tried cleanrom 6.5 (basically stock), and JB aokp... no luck.
Long story short, I'm just going to use the dock as it was intended and deal with having two wires coming out of the phone
I try this one - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-3-5mm...Phone_PDA_Cables_Adapters&hash=item25825f2273
but no audio out on the 3.5mm jack
So, just like many other owners I have had the following problems: bootloop, mic doesn't work, speaker doesn't work, fuzzy/crazy screen, touch not responding, USB connection not recognized, and LEDs not working .
I went through all the tricks which included putting pressure on the back of the phone where the flex cable attaches under the camera, and this temporarily solved the problem. Eventually no matter how hard I pushed, it would not work. I know now how this made things worse (explained later). So when that stopped working I ordered a new flex cable like others had, hoping it would be a permanent fix. Nope, no change. However, when I was detaching the flex cable for the last time, I noticed some of the pins in the main socket lifting up. Ah of course that's why pushing helps, the pins on the female side are broken and pushing helps re-establish their connection. The problem with the pushing solution, and especially when you push hard, the pins will bend away and never re-establish the connection.
If you look at an open phone, the socket (shown in the pic below) is located in the area most susceptible to damage in my opinion. I call it the fault line where the rigid battery meets the not so rigid main board. If you have micro cracks on the side of your phone, you have most likely flexed/bent your phone along this fault line. I keep my phone in my back pocket so I'm sure I have sat down and done this many times.
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So, the socket has the disadvantage of not being very sturdy, along with sitting on the fault line. The stresses placed upon it are likely snapping the pins. Here's the specs showing each pin. (rotate counter-clockwise to match up) On my phone, the left side of the socket was lifting out so all of those pins had snapped. These pins correspond to the problems I was having, eg. speaker, mic, screen, etc.
I don't know if this is a DIY fix or not. The pins are so small that if they hadn't lifted for me, I could not tell if they were snapped or not. I can tell you that the part number is ENBY0057001. I just haven't been able to find it in North America yet. If I did, would it be easy replace the broken one for a low cost?
Thanks
*crossing fingers my nexus 5 can be saved*
Hey, have you managed to find the broken part? unfortunally i have the same issue.
where did u get this part ?
same problem w me,
I replaced the bottom FLex but in vain,
I tried lots of rubber to add push up, it worked for a while ,but now it doesn't
I got this on my daily driver mainboard, colorful pixels all over the screen and mic not working.
However, it can be fixed with a tin heatgun, it's like you resolder those pins
Hello experts,
I have a 2013 Jeep Wrangler with the 6-speed manual transmission.
I am having an issue trying to get the head unit to automatically switch to the reverse camera when I place the vehicle in reverse.
I have wired the system up as described by Daisaita because my canbus decoder does not sense the reverse input from the canbus. (Example of wiring attached)
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The camera works and I have verified that I have 12vdc present at the orange "trigger" wire, that is labeled as "reverse" on the head unit, when in reverse.
I have been through all of the settings and cannot see anything that might affect the unit not switching. Could it be a wrong canbus setting under factory settings?
Any help would be appreciated.
pingjockey691 said:
Hello experts,
I have a 2013 Jeep Wrangler with the 6-speed manual transmission.
I am having an issue trying to get the head unit to automatically switch to the reverse camera when I place the vehicle in reverse.
I have wired the system up as described by Daisaita because my canbus decoder does not sense the reverse input from the canbus. (Example of wiring attached)
The camera works and I have verified that I have 12vdc present at the orange "trigger" wire, that is labeled as "reverse" on the head unit, when in reverse.
I have been through all of the settings and cannot see anything that might affect the unit not switching. Could it be a wrong canbus setting under factory settings?
Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem with my Nissan Rogue. Just connect the reverse cable with 12v but nothing happened. It is as if the player did not detect the presence of the camera. I would appreciate any help.
Cam only working via app
I have a Suzuki swift sport with a dasaita head unit. I have the camera to the reverse light via a rectifier suggested at time of purchase of the camera. The trigger wire is connected to the reverse light power before the rectifier. When using a voltmeter while the reverse light is on I get no voltage through it (this is strange?)
On the other end of this, when the trigger is spliced into the ACC (direct power) and the video from the camera is connected to the video in, I only get an image through the video app while in reverse. This is despite constant power from the ACC cable when not in reverse.
If I move the trigger wire to the reverse wire the camera no longer works.
If I move the rca to the CAM In with the reverse cable the video doesn't work. (this is the normal set up as in instructions)
If I join the reverse cable to the ACC cable, this voltage triggers the head unit to go to reverse mode without an image. Just the yellow triangle.
So
1. the camera works
2. The car going into reverse triggers the camera to work
3. Adding voltage on the reverse cable makes the head unit go into reverse camera
4. I can't get an image from the camera unless I use the video in app
Hi, I'm looking for pinouts of RCA out of Dasaita units.
Can someone send a picture here?
Thanks
my surface 2 does not turn on and does not react to the power button in any way. After I disassembled it, on the motherboard, after pressing, a red LED lights up and blinks, what could it be?
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Welcome to XDA
What's with the jumpers?
Hard reboot, disconnect the battery for a few seconds.
This may or may not be helpful.
Microsoft Surface Pro Laptop (Won’t Turn On)
Tip of the week: 2 methods to hard reboot your surface tablet if it won't start. Here is what we did after our Microsoft Surface froze.
www.lovemysurface.net
where are the jumpers?
I did everything as instructed, but nothing helped. Maybe there is some kind of instruction on the LEDs that are on the board? LEDs 2 pieces, only one flickers.
I don't understand what you were trying to test?
That PCB?
yes it is surface 2 pcb, not power on. I disassembled it, removed the board, checked the battery (the battery is okay), connected it to the laboratory unit, then pressed the power button, after pressing the red LED, the image on the display began flashing. Perhaps there is a schematic of the surface 2 motherboard?
Is this it?
http://laptop-schematics.com/view/12544/
A Google or Bing search is your best first bet.
It may be easier to replace the board(s). Make sure it's not a switch, connector, peripheral etc. causing the issue.
It may not be getting the V+ it needs on one of its rails, blown regulator, resistor, diode, bad cap*, cracked solder joint etc.
Examine the board closely with good light and magnification, look for cracked solder joints.
If they used lead free solder, it fails like woke sports players.
You need to find the V+ rail test points and go from there.
*electrolytic caps wuv to fail
blackhawk said:
Is this it?
http://laptop-schematics.com/view/12544/
A Google or Bing search is your best first bet.
It may be easier to replace the board(s). Make sure it's not a switch, connector, peripheral etc. causing the issue.
It may not be getting the V+ it needs on one of its rails, blown regulator, resistor, diode, bad cap*, cracked solder joint etc.
Examine the board closely with good light and magnification, look for cracked solder joints.
If they used lead free solder, it fails like woke sports players.
You need to find the V+ rail test points and go from there.
*electrolytic caps wuv to fail
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Link to
Microsoft Surface Book 2nd generation and I have a surface 2 on windows RT
Doesn't anyone really mean what kind of LED it is on the board and how should it blink?
Hi all
Earlier this year my phone stopped working with Android Auto, and then more recently, I realised it wasn't recognised by my laptop for the purposes of moving files.
Around the time AA broke, I discovered my Belkin power bank had melted component on the circuit board (not sure which device caused it but presumably my pixel) and when the phone was plugged in the head unit showed the error "Overcurrent caution on USB" until I unplugged the phone. Never saw the message again but AA won't launch on the head unit now, phone still charges through the head unit. My phone still detects the charger type (still fast charges) and I bought a cheap inline voltage display and it shows the phone charging at the expected current for each type of charger.
I've done all the usual;
AA unit still works with my wifes Samsung A40, tried different cables for my phone. Uninstalled and re-updated AA, factory reset the head unit, (Sony XAV-AX100) and completely hard reset the Pixel 3a with no luck.
So I took the plunge yesterday and opened the phone up and fitted a new USB-C port...however, frustratingly this has not fixed the problem! I've put the phone back together but I'm reluctant to glue the screen back down before exhausting all avenues. Is there anything else that may have been shorted or damaged if the USB-C was faulty? I turned on developer mode and *I think* the phone should allow me to choose what to do when plugging the phone in (i.e. file sharing?) but it does not do this.
Any tips on further diagnostics or parts I should check would be appreciated
Thanks
I'm a little confused by my own sequence of events as it was several months ago and it was a couple of weeks before I realised it wasn't just a simple fix. I took a photo of the head unit error message and my phone is reflected in the screen and doesn't appear to be plugged in. So either the message remained after I unplugged the phone, or perhaps power bank was faulty and damaged the phone, I may have charged it from the head unit by mistake which detected the fault and protected itself (hence the message). Normally I wouldn't attempt to charge the power bank from the headunit, but the USB sockets are not far from each other.
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This is what happens when I try and transfer files via USB. The computer prompt comes up immediately and the phone charges, if I click the File Transfer/Android Auto option, after a few moment the phone greys them out
Just bumping this in case anyone has any advice, I've had the screen taped down temporarily but its vulnerable to water and damage like this so I think its time to admit defeat and glue it back together!