The first step, removing the rear top and bottom panels to reach the screws, seems to be the most difficult. Is a heat gun needed or will, say, a hair-dryer be warm enough?
Any idea if one could leave the phone at a repair center and have the battery replaced?
The battery itself has the name BL262 and can be found by searching with Google, Amazon, eBay...
There are disassembly videos on YouTube. Does not look too difficult after the first step.
For anyone interested: A heat gun is not needed. The most difficult part - IMO - is just unfastening the screen. Requires some patience to do it neatly.
Related
Hi you my friends. This is my first post in this forum,
and I've reading you since 2011, tweaking roming etc. So it's my time to contribute. I develop myself a few abilities related to hardware modifications, in old consoles,phones and PC's which gives to me a sense of "ausence of fear" when I begin a new work, so, this is my contribution for the problem of overheating from this phone
After opening the rear case, and extracting all the screws with the screwdriver you only have to detach first the speaker black down zone with your nails (don't worry if you haven't got) and the upper black plastic cover, which shows to us all the motherboard and all from this phone. The idea is very simple.
LG does not seem to place a proper passive cooling system which is in the Lumia 950XL or thermal paste on the Snap 810 2.1 Nexus 6P, INSTEAD, they put a simple insulating rubber between the Processor and the screen, which turns it into a doom, a true hot hell.
If you do the simple mod i'm going to describe, you will never hurt your hands from touching the screen caused by the heat.
1: detach all the cables from the motherboard, or only the two cameras (with your nail)
2: see the processor in the reverse of the motherboard touching the screen and extract this ****ing insulating rubber with your nails and instead of it, put foil paper and around the area to make a full working cooling system. Close the phone and enjoy.
The things I notice is when i am web browsing the phone is at 100% of the brightness and does not overheat. And when i turn it on the phone does not overheat also. Which is good. Maybe this little trick will help you to don't lose or "burn" your phone and have it like a brick.
Easyness: 4.5/5
Time: 5/5
Effectivity: 4/5
HiramAbiff said:
Hi you my friends. This is my first post in this forum,
and I've reading you since 2011, tweaking roming etc. So it's my time to contribute. I develop myself a few abilities related to hardware modifications, in old consoles,phones and PC's which gives to me a sense of "ausence of fear" when I begin a new work, so, this is my contribution for the problem of overheating from this phone
After opening the rear case, and extracting all the screws with the screwdriver you only have to detach first the speaker black down zone with your nails (don't worry if you haven't got) and the upper black plastic cover, which shows to us all the motherboard and all from this phone. The idea is very simple.
LG does not seem to place a proper passive cooling system which is in the Lumia 950XL or thermal paste on the Snap 810 2.1 Nexus 6P, INSTEAD, they put a simple insulating rubber between the Processor and the screen, which turns it into a doom, a true hot hell.
If you do the simple mod i'm going to describe, you will never hurt your hands from touching the screen caused by the heat.
1: detach all the cables from the motherboard, or only the two cameras (with your nail)
2: see the processor in the reverse of the motherboard touching the screen and extract this ****ing insulating rubber with your nails and instead of it, put foil paper and around the area to make a full working cooling system. Close the phone and enjoy.
The things I notice is when i am web browsing the phone is at 100% of the brightness and does not overheat. And when i turn it on the phone does not overheat also. Which is good. Maybe this little trick will help you to don't lose or "burn" your phone and have it like a brick.
Easyness: 4.5/5
Time: 5/5
Effectivity: 4/5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what
There is a thread somewhere with someone doing this with a small sheet of copper instead of foil. They also reported an improvement in heat and performance.
Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk
danslb said:
There is a thread somewhere with someone doing this with a small sheet of copper instead of foil. They also reported an improvement in heat and performance.
Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's nice. It's good to see that with easy tools you can fix the main problem of the phone. With only a screwdriver and foil the results are very, very good. I'm a bit proud of that, that i can play the top 10 gameloft games without any kind of slow down or shuttering.
Thanks for the info :good:
I would strongly advise against doing this cooling mod. The "insulating rubber" the OP is talking about is actually a thermal pad, which facilitates thermal transfer between the CPU package and the metal frame inside the phone (same function as thermal paste between a heatsink and CPU) . By removing it and replacing it with foil, it is breaking thermal contact with the metal frame. Yes, the phone doesn't feel as hot, but that is because the heat is no longer conducted to and dissipated by the metal frame, and the heat is trapped in the CPU and motherboard. Though the phone has lower surface temperatures, the trapped heat is unhealthy for the device in the long term and causes more throttling, as well as risking damage to the internal components (especially the battery).
As such, a viable thermal mod would be to replace the stock thermal pad with a high quality 1mm thermal pad (such as the Fujipoly 17 W/mk ones, can be found on Amazon for around $10~20) as well as placing 0.5mm thermal pads on the metal shield around the CPU. I may be putting up pictures of this in a separate post if I have the time.
To the OP, I recommend you replace the foil with a high quality thermal pad, before the excessive heat burns up your device
Cheers!
Let's see... It wasn't doing this before. But I was having problems with I believe the charging bottom part, as it wouldn't charge below high battery levels, like 30-50%, and the ultimately the power button stopped working prompting me to order parts which included with button, display and housing to make it like brand new. Well, I did F up with the screen.
Details for those interested in doing it: before permanently adhering display to mid-frame with new tape/glue/whatever you using, make sure to fit the bottom end in first(however possible with ribbon connector holding top in. not easy) otherwise, as you lay it down and sticker is sticking and you didn't nudge display upwards enough, bottom won't fit without a struggle, and my struggle caused me to ruin the $40 display in a couple ways. So careful
So I'm hoping it's the charging part, $25 bucks, no big deal though without troubleshooting skills on these electronics IDK for sure. So anyone have any experience/ideas on this? I guess I should just order the charging (module?) and if it doesn't help, whatever, return and pay $6 shipping right?
Hi all, I'm in the unfortunate situation that I need a new screen for my Pixel 3. Screens are hard to come by but I found KR-NET who sells screens for most phones including Pixel 3.
Any one have any experience with them? Seems like the only option for now but don't want to end up with a subpar display.
Well, I went ahead and bought it. It arrived today and my phone is fully apart. Now I can't figure out how to take the screen itself off! Teardown videos just say it's "securely adhered" (https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Google+Pixel+3+Teardown/113763) or skip over this step entirely (like in this Pixel 3 XL video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Ffn4GQpgSU). Any ideas on how to get the old screen off?
Alright, well I just winged it and figured it out. Everything is working now. If anyone is interested, I can post more info. It wasn't terribly difficult but here's my lessons learned. . While I've never taken apart a phone (or anything that wasn't intended to be disassembled/is sealed shut), I'm generally comfortable with assembling electronics. It's not for the fainthearted, do this at your own risk. According to some sites, Pixel 3 has a very low repairability score because of how difficult it is.
Now that I've done it, the only reason a full disassemble is required is to route the display ribbons through the back. If you can find a way to do this, you probably only need to take off the wireless charger and loosen other things a bit.
Make sure the top speaker flex cable is through the motherboard before securing. It's easy to miss, unlike the other flex cables
Get a screen replacement kit that includes precut adhesives for battery and back cover. (Mine didn't)
Take pictures along the way to remember how things go. There are no good tutorials online with this detail
One of the front cameras has a seal that doesn't handle the process well. Mine made it but probably not as good as new
Somehow track which screws go where - beyond just pictures. I ended up with 1 extra screw and extra clip?
PATIENCE! - things break easily. Don't force parts or screws. When prying, do it gently
Be careful with the speaker mesh covers. Not sure if I did mine right but they do not come with any kit that I know of so don't break or bend them or forget to install them before you adhesive the screen on
Make sure to test that everything (phone speaker, bluetooth, bottom speaker, fingerprint, squeeze mechanism, all cameras, charging, flashlight, etc) is working before sealing it up
I managed to break my earpiece speaker somehow so now I'm on the hunt for one of those. At least speakerphone and Bluetooth work!
How's the display?
Does it seem legit, any tint etc?
Was it manufactured by lg?
No issues, can't tell any difference from original. For $80 can't complain vs $280 to get it fixed somewhere. It would be worth a few more $ to get the precut adhesive though.
It's branded as KR NET, seems they make them on their own? Not sure really. Since Google isn't making screens available yet for repairs, this seems fine. Literally would never know.
Hi guys
Sadly I have a cracked display...so there are no spare parts available and the shops in Germany would like to have something around 500€.
I changed in the past some Sony-Displays and thought about doing myself. I found on aliexpress some U12+Displays.
Sadly I didnt found a single "manual" or how to, to do this right - anyone can help?
Best regards
Maybe these vids from JerryRigEverything can help you out.
Good luck!
Sent from my HTC U12+ using XDA Labs
https://tinyurl.com/htcu12
Just replaced mine
majomathes said:
Hi guys
Sadly I have a cracked display...so there are no spare parts available and the shops in Germany would like to have something around 500€.
I changed in the past some Sony-Displays and thought about doing myself. I found on aliexpress some U12+Displays.
Sadly I didnt found a single "manual" or how to, to do this right - anyone can help?
Best regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just replaced mine yesterday and it was more difficult than any other one I've done in the past. Anyway I never found one single video on YouTube that showed the screen removal and pretty much had to play it by ear. There are a few videos that show the disassembly of the U12+ and each stops before removing the screen. My advice is to remove everything from the frame, I managed to piece together enough from the videos to know there are 15 screws to remove, one video said 14 but there's one more that's hidden until you've gotten under the motherboard holding the front facing cameras. Knowing I wanted to keep it simple I didn't remove all of the antenna wires, there's one at the bottom that's under the speaker cover that I left attached so I only disconnected it from the motherboard. Then the other I only disconnected near the vibrator, leaving it connected at the motherboard, so each piece had one wire that stayed connected. Meanwhile you'll have to undo every other plug on the device and with a little persuasion everything fell out. (Don't attempt to remove the button/pressure sensing strips along the sides!) Once you are down to the frame, and for me the ear piece speaker, I used a heat gun to soften the bond between the glass and the frame. It doesn't loosen up very easily, they are really bonded together. I got most of it and then began to chip away at the broken glass. You'll want a good heat gun for this part. I had to set mine to 300F to really get it to loosen up and then work mm by mm around the edge getting all of the glass and glue out of the track. This probably took me a half hour or more. I used E6000 glue but only because I would have had to order B7000 or any other recommended glue. E6000 is a good glue but just because many of the other videos I watched used B7000 I would have liked to use it too.
To install the new screen I used a syringe filled with my glue to follow the small glue track around the edge of the frame. Don't worry about squeeze out because this glue is very forgiving and wipes away easily with IPA Alcohol and a rag. I followed the old glue placement, adding a little extra near the bottom corners and a dab around the ear piece speaker holes. Then it's just reversing the process to assemble the electronics. Now here is another word of warning, the plugs are so small and some are not easy to align but be sure they snap into place and are flat when installed. I made the mistake of not getting the display plug flat and had to do a partial disassembly to correct the issue.
I didn't glue the back on but think I might today just to try and achieve the waterproof level the phone shipped with. You may have to glue yours but I had previously broken the back and already replaced it and the replacement came with a double sided adhesive strip that was still pretty sticky. If I remember correctly the original back was glued on and probably wouldn't have stuck if I had tried to just replace the back as I did.
One other note. After being disassembled and pulling the battery my finger print scanner didn't want to work. In fact it didn't even show up in the menu when I went looking for it but restarting the phone again caused it to show up. My advantage with the double sided adhesive was I was able to test everything and use the phone for a full day before committing to gluing the back on. Now that I know everything is working, the phone is charging and it all seems good I can glue the back on.
Best of luck
My display damaged and i wanna to ask you smth guys.
How difficulty is it to change it by myself?
I watch this video "
" and i concluded its pretty easy to change it. But the only tool i dont have is the heatgun the other tools i can buy.
Tell me your opinion. Is it easy to do?
Can't tell if it's easy, but in other situations that I needed a heat gun and didn't have one, I used a hair dryer, which is way more common to have at home, or at least easier to borrow from a neighbor or something like that
Watch tear down and repair vids.
If a repair shop will let you watch them do it.
ESD, learn and understand what it is. Discreet components ie the display and mobo are very susceptible to it out of circuit.
Bare minimum protection is a bare wood surface to work on and a relative room humidity of 50% or better. A earth grounded ESD mat and wrist strap is best
Disconnect the battery as soon as possible in the disassembly process. Discharge below 40% if possible before starting.
Have all the drivers, picks, fine precision tweezers, and tools needed. Excellent light and a 2X or so optical visor be nice.
Inspect for additional damage*.
Have a set of OEM seals and now's a good time to replace the battery if it's performance has noticably dropped.
Take pictures disassembling if needed. It must be put back together exactly as it was.
Do Not over torgue screws... less is better.
Be very careful not to damage the ribbon microconnectors.
Take your time, no rush.
*any impact that can break the display or bend the frame can damage the mobo. High G loads or direct impacts can damage chipsets internally, fracture solder joints and internally damaged multilayered mobo PCB internal traces.
I did it three days ago, bc my mix 3 had contact with water.
Its kind of easy to do with a hairdryer and a small plastic tool.
The hardest part is to glue it back together.
(But I have to say my screen didn't work afterwards. The expert in the phone repair store said its maybe a problem on the motherboard)
slowmotion11 said:
I did it three days ago, bc my mix 3 had contact with water.
Its kind of easy to do with a hairdryer and a small plastic tool.
The hardest part is to glue it back together.
(But I have to say my screen didn't work afterwards. The expert in the phone repair store said its maybe a problem on the motherboard)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the battery isn't promptly removed and especially if it's not immediately powered down the current can cause corrosion and short out circuits. The power section is particularly vulnerable. Try again, inspect mobo and the ribbon connectors for signs of corrosion and moisture. Use bright light and magnification.
Is it completely dry? A good soaking with anhydrous isopropyl will help remove hidden water. Again dry completely afterwards. Getting the underside of BGA chipsets dry is imperative.
The micro connectors tend to trap moisture too.
Careful use of compressed air can be very useful but the key word here is careful. Don't stick a nozzle with 100 psi an inch or two from the mobo! Either use low pressure clean, dry air or back it up for high pressure air.
Use your best judgment... it's a bit of an art.
After you dry it as good as possible let it sit in a warm, dry room with a fan on it. Complete drying may take days without disassembly.
Thank you for the tips! I will try it like you described
The same is true with flooded cars, promptly pulling the battery can limit the damage even save the vehicle.
Be wary on flood damage vehicles for sale now, always check for water lines/marks
Most will suffer impossible electrical problems forever. Brine water always kills...