I need help trying to get my head around my new stereo. I'm trying to connect the Headunit to a standard car Antennae, but the headunit seems to have a strange Fakra (?) style outputs.
Enclosed is the pic of the back of a Similar unit and it has 2 outputs as far as I can tell. A Single and a dual (both white) and unlabeled in the below picture.
Anyone came across these before and what adapter cable will I need? I think I should be using the white socket under the USB cable 13
It is double fakra. Used in a lot of vag Cars. If you have 1 connection in the car, you should use that. Just test which one is working.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn ZUK Z2121 met Tapatalk
I had to pick up a Farka Z (Female Farka) to Female Din adapter when installing mine. Snagged it on Amazon for less than $10 USD or so.
Related
I'm more than sure than this has been asked before, But I've already looked at the forum and I found so many different models of car holders and blue-tooths that I already don't know which one might be the best one.
I'm looking for something nice hopefully minimalistic in design.
I already have a car charger with a double USB connector port so I'm looking only for the car holder and a good blue tooth device...
Thanks in advance to everyone, I know how annoying can it be to see some one asking something that it might have been answered before, really thanks.
I Hv the genius HTC desire HD car charger set (free with my phone) , it hold the phone well , only down size is I need to remove the TPU case every time I use it ...
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App
Do you have a link to look at it???
Thanks in advance
I use a brodit passive holder with the the specific pro clip for my car, just looks nice and part of the car. For Bluetooth I connect to the parrot add-on for my kenwood set, 1amp car charger I wired in myself. A bit of work but saves trailing cables over the dash.
The genuine brand HTC Desire HD holder is very capable and secure; Clicky You can use the cable with another 12v socket with USB output; Cable automatically activates the Car Panel, which is useful.
I have a Samsung WEP870 bluetooth headset; Comes with lanyard-equipped stereo headphones which you can plug in to the headset, giving you a solution for music too. Sound quality isn't great, but ok for a walk to the pub.
Thank you all I will take a look
do any of you have problems with the phone not being able to see the cable correct? sometimes mine on car dock see the cable as cable ion car sometimes as connect to pc and sometimes a charger, really weird
I got a universal 1 from Amazon, fits any size. Great purchase.
The Modern-Tech In-Car Dashboard Mount is also very handy to hold the phone on your car's dashboard. It's adhesive, you just have to set the phone on the mat and pull it off later. It's not so great for charging though.
Have you looked into HTC Desire HD Herbert Richter suction mounts?
Where can I look at those???
Here's the link.. Aesthetically, I love the way this particular one looks.
Hi
I was wondering if it's possible to watch movies from my device to my old rv (scart)
I was looking for micro usb to rca which I don't find but I did find usb to rca and I have a micro usb to usb otg cable but I think it would use the phone as host or would it work?
Or is there another possibility to get galaxys4 to scart?
Thank you
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AFAIK MHL port does not provide analog video signals (CVBS nor s-video). Only option getting this signal from this port is to use MHL->HDMI cable and HDMI->analog video converter.
Another option of sending S4 picture to such old TV set could be Netgear NeoTV MAX (NTV300SL), which supports Miracast technology (Samsung call it Screen Mirror in S4 menu) and except HDMI have AV output with RCA cable.Wireless, but not cheap.
It's so annoying for my ios devices I could just use a cheap 30 pin to rca cable and it just worked why isn't that possible with android
Verstuurd van mijn GT-I9505 met Tapatalk
Would it work if i tried this?
connect phone to this
http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/750056-...AU_MobilePhoneAccessories&hash=item5d3da285e9
(or maybe this? http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/MHL-USB...175?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec30f47df)
And connect that adaptor to this http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/Gold-HD..._Accessories_Wires_Cables&hash=item2a2f1d4e7b
(i also found one without vga http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/For-HDT...=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item5d405428e9 ) but its a tat more expensive
And then put a red yellow white rca adaptor to scart in the tv
Galaxy s4 supports MHL so that will work but not sure if the hdmi to vga, rca would work
Any suggestions or experience?
Thanks again
Edit
another weird question i have a Rikomagic mini pc
Would it would if i would combind the hdmi to rca cable if i used a hdmi female to hdmi female adaptor? http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/HDMI-Fe...501?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item2c702553cd
Would be awsome if that also worked
So
Do you guys think this will work?
I dont want to buy all the things if it doesnt work
xeph20 said:
It's so annoying for my ios devices I could just use a cheap 30 pin to rca cable and it just worked why isn't that possible with android
Verstuurd van mijn GT-I9505 met Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Technology changes. And that is dying out. It's all about HD. Try to do that with a newer lightning iOS device, won't work. As far as the above working, in theory it should work. But nobody knows for sure because it's never been tested. You can be the first :good:
This works, i have tested it:
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Univer...4499349&sr=1-1&keywords=hdmi+analog+converter
Will
Galaxy S4 > otg > usb to rca
work for just audio?
better off buying a new TV
after all the adapters and junk you still have a poor picture and power wasting TV. a new 20" monitor is like less than $100 these days.
I picked this head unit up on ebay a while back and I've never gotten it to work, and I gave up trying to communicate with the seller. I've been trying to get this to work in my car - I replaced the existing Kenwood double DIN unit with this one. The Kenwood had been connected ot the factory amps using third party harnesses, triggering OEM Bose amps off the standard remote out wire of the Kenwood. Thing is, there's a blue 'remote out' wire on the SNT-210, as well as a brown "amplifier" wire. I have tried plugging in both of these wires, individually, to the receiving blue remote wire, to no avail. No audio out of this head unit. I can swap the Kenwood back in using it's existing wiring harness, and it's just fine - using factory amps. At first, the seller didn't even acknowledge that the 'amplifier' wire existed, and then finally told me to use that instead of 'remote out'. Well, as I mentioned, that didn't work.
I haven't even tried using the built in amplifier in the SNT-210 as the wiring simply doesn't exist in the car (due to oem amps). I suppose I could take this into a stereo shop locally and see if they can get output from it - I'm not even sure if the unit works, to be honest. I've been so far extremely underwhelmed with it's (lack of) performance. Not having functional audio just adds some ironic humor to the mix.
Does anyone actually have this in a car with the factory amplifiers?
Since I have had my android device in the car,I have had troubles with my dab module. Now I received my second module. Connected it and the first impressions were fine. Then I stick the aerial to the windshield and it seems the problems aren't over.[emoji29] [emoji27] . Now I was just in my car and found out that the 12 v connection might be part of the problem, I connected it to a wire from the cigarette lighter and that's a switched 12v connection. I had the radio on with the key on acc (no running engine and no 12v on the lighter) reception was 3 bars. Then I switched the car on and reception was gone and the radio needed to reconnect to the usb module.... Maybe this is the source of the problem ?
Any ideas? I want to have it working all the time
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I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
ADB100 said:
I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
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Click to collapse
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
sirleeofroy said:
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
ADB100 said:
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
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Click to collapse
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
sirleeofroy said:
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
ADB100 said:
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
sirleeofroy said:
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The audio is supplied to the amp via a quad-lock connector. So the audio from the rear of the unit connects to this dongle on one side, out the other side of the dongle are four female RCA's. These are connected to four male RCA's that connect to the quad-lock connector. There are two blue wires labelled 'AMP-CON' that have male/female push-fit connectors and these are connected together - I am guessing this is the 12v to switch the amp on? There is also another blue wire labelled 'ANT' with a push-fit connector. This is connected to a green wire coming out of the antenna facra cable.
It was working and nothing has been disturbed so I am fairly sure its not been wired up incorrectly. I think something has broken...
I'll check with a multimeter that I am getting 12v on the AMP-CON cable from the back of the amp first.
Andy
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
ADB100 said:
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
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Click to collapse
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
sirleeofroy said:
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
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Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for taking the time to help out. I don't think I described the cabling correctly. The AMP-CON and the ANT come from the same pin in the connector that plugs into the rear of the head unit (one wire comes out and then it splits into two and there is a bit of heat-shrink around the join. If I disconnect the ANT cable from the green wire that comes from the fakra adapter there is sound and the cable goes +10v. If I connect it back up there is a low 'thud' as it makes contact, the sound stops and the voltage drops to 0.something. It seems the fakra adapter is dragging the voltage down, hence why I think this adapter might be faulty.
Andy
I have the same issue now. We’re you able to resolve this?
I am also having this issue.. My HU turns on. Everything works perfectly... Just no sound. None at all. No factory amp. In a 2002 Silverado. I don't know if its the internal amp or what. Ideas?