Hey guys,
Does any of you knows if the MTCD head-units provide 12v power over the FM antenna connector?
Most cars antennas these days require power either over the coaxial cable or separately.
My original multimedia system in the car had times better reception than my MTCD unit.
BTW my car is a Great Wall Hover H6 (also known as Haval H6) a Chinese SUV.
OrionBG said:
Hey guys,
Does any of you knows if the MTCD head-units provide 12v power over the FM antenna connector?
Most cars antennas these days require power either over the coaxial cable or separately.
My original multimedia system in the car had times better reception than my MTCD unit.
BTW my car is a Great Wall Hover H6 (also known as Haval H6) a Chinese SUV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi There,
My MTCD (GS) unit has a separate "ANT" wire which is used to power the antenna, the antenna connector itself is not powered and I don't believe any of them are.
Hope that helps.
sirleeofroy said:
Hi There,
My MTCD (GS) unit has a separate "ANT" wire which is used to power the antenna, the antenna connector itself is not powered and I don't believe any of them are.
Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I remember the ANT wire and supposedly it is connected but still the reception is bad.
Most VAG cars for instance, after 1997 are using powered antennas and the stock radios are providing power to the antenna trough the antenna cable itself. There are many adapters for aftermarket radios like THIS one for instance.
I'm not sure from what car the Chinese copied the antenna assembly... the entire Dashboard looks very similar to a Honda CRV but who knows...
OrionBG said:
I remember the ANT wire and supposedly it is connected but still the reception is bad.
Most VAG cars for instance, after 1997 are using powered antennas and the stock radios are providing power to the antenna trough the antenna cable itself. There are many adapters for aftermarket radios like THIS one for instance.
I'm not sure from what car the Chinese copied the antenna assembly... the entire Dashboard looks very similar to a Honda CRV but who knows...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The adaptor you linked to is similar to what I use for my DAB+ however, my FM reception was fine before I was using that. I have the adaptor so that I can pick up DAB+ signal via my normal non-powered antenna.
Where have you connected the "ANT" wire?
sirleeofroy said:
The adaptor you linked to is similar to what I use for my DAB+ however, my FM reception was fine before I was using that. I have the adaptor so that I can pick up DAB+ signal via my normal non-powered antenna.
Where have you connected the "ANT" wire?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be fair I don't remember, but I do remember something called antenna power (or something similar). I'll be upgrading my PX3 board to PX5 soon so I'll double check everything again.
OrionBG said:
Hey guys,
Does any of you knows if the MTCD head-units provide 12v power over the FM antenna connector?
Most cars antennas these days require power either over the coaxial cable or separately.
My original multimedia system in the car had times better reception than my MTCD unit.
BTW my car is a Great Wall Hover H6 (also known as Haval H6) a Chinese SUV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a separate wire, labeled many times ant_power or ant.. The cable-color is blue. It provides +12 at power on.
I have the same problem. I tried an adapter but no results.
If someone find a solution, it could be nice.
i got this px5 KGL (erisin) for my sisters mercades b200
man this is terrible.. now i understand what people were complaining about..
when BT is connected to phone the wifi is useless!!
my KSP unit does not have this..
i have already soldered an external wifi antenna, but it does not help at all!!
how r people coping with that?
i am already on latest MCU 2.54..
I hear you buddy, I have a KGL as well upgraded from px3 to px5 board, and also soldered a proper wifi antenna.
In my experience, if wifi is connected (tethering phone data for example) I am unable to pair the phone using Bluetooth.
I normally turn off the wifi on the head unit pair the BT and then turn on the wifi again.
The drawback is that whenever bluetooth is paired, wifi does not transfer faster than about 3 Mbps.
The moment I turn wifi off, the wifi speed improves absurdly
I am evaluating the possibility of replacing the wifi + bt chip...
GeorgeM269 said:
I hear you buddy, I have a KGL as well upgraded from px3 to px5 board, and also soldered a proper wifi antenna.
In my experience, if wifi is connected (tethering phone data for example) I am unable to pair the phone using Bluetooth.
I normally turn off the wifi on the head unit pair the BT and then turn on the wifi again.
The drawback is that whenever bluetooth is paired, wifi does not transfer faster than about 3 Mbps.
The moment I turn wifi off, the wifi speed improves absurdly
I am evaluating the possibility of replacing the wifi + bt chip...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is one chip for both.. it is surface mounted.. good luck changing that..
May be an external Wi-Fi dongle of some soft. I do believe back in mtcb units they had succeeded going that road
i looked into this. the surface mounted chip is an usb interface connected device.
http://www.realtek.com/products/productsView.aspx?Langid=1&PFid=59&Level=5&Conn=4&ProdID=373
if it is a usb device one could try to desolder it and put an usb port there instead. and then connect a usb dongle with the same chip externally...
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/COMFAST-CF-WU725B-2016-Newest-Bluetooth_60474792223.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.31.2f898c12d58o8j
but honestly i doubt it will fix this.
btw. do you have this buzzing/humming sound in the spekers when using bluetooth handsfree? with the actual malaysk rom i cannot do one call i can hear nothing and peaopletelling me it sounds like a helicopter.
with HA rom it works 90%.
i haven't hooked up this unit to the car yet
zapedge said:
i looked into this. the surface mounted chip is an usb interface connected device.
http://www.realtek.com/products/productsView.aspx?Langid=1&PFid=59&Level=5&Conn=4&ProdID=373
if it is a usb device one could try to desolder it and put an usb port there instead. and then connect a usb dongle with the same chip externally...
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/COMFAST-CF-WU725B-2016-Newest-Bluetooth_60474792223.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.31.2f898c12d58o8j
but honestly i doubt it will fix this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have been brainstorming for a few days when I have had a chance to check how this chip could be replaced. While yes, it is surface mounted, it has its own circuit board which is then soldered to the main board. The module looks like this:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
and this is the pinout:
I have thought about ways of upgrading to a RTL8821CU instead, since the radio only takes 2.4 GHz wifi signals anyways.
http://www.realtek.com/products/productsView.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=21&PFid=60&Level=5&Conn=4&ProdID=386
Packages are similar (QFN 56 pins) so there should be modules built from these as well.
datasheet: http://en.ofeixin.com/downloadsfront.do?method=picker&flag=all&id=d0dc83f6-b71f-49ae-8469-2c8761f94551&fileId=64&isDownloadPermissions=true&memstate=/members_login.html
zapedge said:
btw. do you have this buzzing/humming sound in the spekers when using bluetooth handsfree? with the actual malaysk rom i cannot do one call i can hear nothing and peaopletelling me it sounds like a helicopter.
with HA rom it works 90%.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do hear the noise as well, running Malaysk too, it has not been as rough in my experience, mostly only noticeable when the car is stationary. I did have to change the mic because it sounded like I was in a construction zone, lots of random noises during calls.
today i removed the antenna from my device entirely.
absolutely no difference. ist seems the antenna is not connected to the wifi chip which would perfectly explain why we have this bad wifi reception....
did a check on spareparts on aliexpress. found the following
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/RTL8723BU-USB-Interface-WIFI-BT-Wireless-internet-MID-GPS-Bluetooth-WIFI-wireless-module/32466684026.html
there are some specs listed in the most detailed form i could find yet.
bullet 5 describes how an antenna for the chip should be built.
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1eGojJpXXXXXKXpXXq6xXFXXXc/116872914/HTB1eGojJpXXXXXKXpXXq6xXFXXXc.jpg?size=143645&height=751&width=512&hash=992dd655945fb5ee7d91c23ad7a3a04a
could the missing condensers be the issue?
im not that into high fequency electronics. but i think i remember condenser in line is a hipass-filter...
maybe there are some low frequencys interfering with the chip?
i removed the BT cable antenna completely and it made no difference.. i thought that might reduce the impact, but interference is the same. useless.. i am returning the stupid KGL thing.. absolutely crap
I have the same problem and decided to apply a simple solution.
The issue is produced for interference between wifi and bluetooth signals. They are in near frequencies and hardware doesn't have enougth protection.
So, I decided to turn wifi off anytime I must use bt for a phone call. All interferences completely dissapear and phone conversation is clear both sides of the line.
Hi, i found a solution for the problem. I bought a USB wifi+BT dongle and i connected to the rear usb port of the unit. By restarting the system the bluetooth and wifi starting work again.
danielsat said:
Hi, i found a solution for the problem. I bought a USB wifi+BT dongle and i connected to the rear usb port of the unit. By restarting the system the bluetooth and wifi starting work again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you give us a link of the dongle?
I thought external dongles don't work on threes machine..
Nomader0 said:
Can you give us a link of the dongle?
I thought external dongles don't work on threes machine..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Comfast wu725b is said to work with these units and will override the built in module. Just search for it on Ali or eBay. Or search for wifi bt dongle and look for it. My phone wont let me copy the link at the moment for some reason
Skickat från min ONEPLUS A3003 via Tapatalk
WarSpaz said:
Comfast wu725b is said to work with these units and will override the built in module. Just search for it on Ali or eBay. Or search for wifi bt dongle and look for it. My phone wont let me copy the link at the moment for some reason
Skickat från min ONEPLUS A3003 via Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
does that overide thw wifi module or both wifi and BT?
Nomader0 said:
does that overide thw wifi module or both wifi and BT?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As i have understood it, it will override the bt automatically and still let you use the built in wifi if you want, but you can also use the dongles wifi module if wanted
Skickat från min ONEPLUS A3003 via Tapatalk
I've had similar problems with a KGL MTCD/MTCE unit (2GB RAM, PX5, with MTCD MCU). The problem isn't the ROM, but for reference, I'm running Malaysk's latest PX5 ROM. Most notably, I experience significant break-up using bluetooth for calls. Additionally, I'm unable to pick up WiFi from inside my house out in my driveway, though various phones and laptops can do this acceptably well.
We opened the unit, found bad soldering at the WiFi/Bluetooth module, and attempted to repair it. We replaced the antenna with an SMA pigtail and longer antenna, and removed a soldered short in the board. We then powered back up with the new antenna, and found the signal no better, and in fact possibly worse than before (we may have damaged something when trying to fix the module).
We also noted that there is a small antenna printed on the bottom side of the board. There were several problems with this. First, the "internal" antenna was "connected" (more on that in a second) to RF1. RF1 on the specs for this module as published by a number of sellers on AliExpress shows RF1 as being no contact. So, we're not even sure how that's supposed to work. Second, I said "connected" before, because the soldering was bad and apparently didn't really have a connection at all. Third, being an antenna on the underside of the board inside a metal case will probably preclude it from working at all anyway.
The biggest problem is likely metal under the dash of my car, which prevents WiFi from being picked up well under there. The antenna needs to be moved out from under the dash.
I considered getting an SMA extension cable to simply move the antenna. However, at the end of the day, I've ordered a USB module, in the hopes of getting it to work. The module is listed as "USB WiFi Bluetooth Adapter, Wireless WiFi Dongle Network Adapter 150Mbps & Bluetooth Transmitter Receiver with External Antenna for Desktop/Laptop/PC, Supports Windows 7/8/8.1/10/XP/Vista/Android" and sold by "iFun4U" on Amazon.com. The unit has a larger antenna than the Comfast unit previously mentioned, and appears to use the same Realtek RTL8723BU chipset that the onboard module uses (typo'd in the listing as "Realteck TRL7823BU"). Here's a link to it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JYE5BT2
My hope is that by plugging this unit in and restarting the system, the wireless kernel module will pick up the external USB device first and register it as wlan0, making any further configuration unnecessary. If that fails, I'll look into ways to specifically assign my external device as wlan0. Worst-case, I'll open my unit back up and de-solder the USB data pins on the module.
I'll let you know how it goes.
Update -- on my KGL unit, simply plugging in the new WiFi/Bluetooth dongle caused the system to crash when booting. We ultimately had to disable the onboard Realtek chip by cutting the power trace to the board. After that, the system boots right up, and the Wifi works quite well.
wondering if this also means A2DP audio streaming is clear now too?
jpreston84 said:
Update -- on my KGL unit, simply plugging in the new WiFi/Bluetooth dongle caused the system to crash when booting. We ultimately had to disable the onboard Realtek chip by cutting the power trace to the board. After that, the system boots right up, and the Wifi works quite well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which trace disable power on chip?
Someone test antes USB hub to confirm that It works?
Thanks you
newbie_vlc said:
Which trace disable power on chip?
Someone test antes USB hub to confirm that It works?
Thanks you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please check the post earlier in this thread by GeorgeM269, which shows pictures of the pinout for the board. To be honest, if you cannot use those to determine the pinout of the board, I do not recommend you attempt to cut a trace. You could destroy your head unit, and I accept no liability for that. Do this at your own risk.
- If you have opened the unit, and are looking top-down into the unit, with the face-plate on the top side, and the back panel on the bottom side.
- From that angle, on what I'll call the left-side of the small board, you'll see 4 connections, which are GND, RF0, RF1, CLK. RF0 runs to the antenna connection on the board.
- On what I'll call the bottom edge of the board, there are 6 contacts which have have no connection.
- On what I'll call the right edge of the board, there are 4 connections which represent a USB connection to the system. From top to bottom, these are GND, Data+, Data-, PWR (3.3V). The 3.3V power connection, on the bottom right of the board, is the one we cut.
- Check your results with a meter to be sure you've fully cut through the trace.
For what it's worth, this mod is still working without issues.
I'm not sure what "antes USB hub" is. I can tell you there are no issues with using the USB hub I purchased. Personally, I ended up plugging my USB WiFi/BT dongle onto one of the ports on the rear of the head unit.
GeorgeM269 said:
I have been brainstorming for a few days when I have had a chance to check how this chip could be replaced. While yes, it is surface mounted, it has its own circuit board which is then soldered to the main board. The module looks like this:
and this is the pinout:
I have thought about ways of upgrading to a RTL8821CU instead, since the radio only takes 2.4 GHz wifi signals anyways.
http://www.realtek.com/products/productsView.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=21&PFid=60&Level=5&Conn=4&ProdID=386
Packages are similar (QFN 56 pins) so there should be modules built from these as well.
datasheet: http://en.ofeixin.com/downloadsfront.do?method=picker&flag=all&id=d0dc83f6-b71f-49ae-8469-2c8761f94551&fileId=64&isDownloadPermissions=true&memstate=/members_login.html
I do hear the noise as well, running Malaysk too, it has not been as rough in my experience, mostly only noticeable when the car is stationary. I did have to change the mic because it sounded like I was in a construction zone, lots of random noises during calls.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ordered this USB stick off eBay Link. It has the RTL8821CU chipset with Bluetooth 4.2, wifi ac standard, and 5ghz Frequency. The radio does pick it up as a USB device but it doesn't have a driver built into the kernel. I'm going to see if I can build a kernel module and get it to load. Just a little hesitant to try because if it causes the kernel to crash i'll have to lose my settings/info to restore it as I don't have ADB set up yet.
I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
ADB100 said:
I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
sirleeofroy said:
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
ADB100 said:
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
sirleeofroy said:
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
ADB100 said:
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
sirleeofroy said:
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The audio is supplied to the amp via a quad-lock connector. So the audio from the rear of the unit connects to this dongle on one side, out the other side of the dongle are four female RCA's. These are connected to four male RCA's that connect to the quad-lock connector. There are two blue wires labelled 'AMP-CON' that have male/female push-fit connectors and these are connected together - I am guessing this is the 12v to switch the amp on? There is also another blue wire labelled 'ANT' with a push-fit connector. This is connected to a green wire coming out of the antenna facra cable.
It was working and nothing has been disturbed so I am fairly sure its not been wired up incorrectly. I think something has broken...
I'll check with a multimeter that I am getting 12v on the AMP-CON cable from the back of the amp first.
Andy
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
ADB100 said:
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
sirleeofroy said:
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for taking the time to help out. I don't think I described the cabling correctly. The AMP-CON and the ANT come from the same pin in the connector that plugs into the rear of the head unit (one wire comes out and then it splits into two and there is a bit of heat-shrink around the join. If I disconnect the ANT cable from the green wire that comes from the fakra adapter there is sound and the cable goes +10v. If I connect it back up there is a low 'thud' as it makes contact, the sound stops and the voltage drops to 0.something. It seems the fakra adapter is dragging the voltage down, hence why I think this adapter might be faulty.
Andy
I have the same issue now. We’re you able to resolve this?
I am also having this issue.. My HU turns on. Everything works perfectly... Just no sound. None at all. No factory amp. In a 2002 Silverado. I don't know if its the internal amp or what. Ideas?