i got this px5 KGL (erisin) for my sisters mercades b200
man this is terrible.. now i understand what people were complaining about..
when BT is connected to phone the wifi is useless!!
my KSP unit does not have this..
i have already soldered an external wifi antenna, but it does not help at all!!
how r people coping with that?
i am already on latest MCU 2.54..
I hear you buddy, I have a KGL as well upgraded from px3 to px5 board, and also soldered a proper wifi antenna.
In my experience, if wifi is connected (tethering phone data for example) I am unable to pair the phone using Bluetooth.
I normally turn off the wifi on the head unit pair the BT and then turn on the wifi again.
The drawback is that whenever bluetooth is paired, wifi does not transfer faster than about 3 Mbps.
The moment I turn wifi off, the wifi speed improves absurdly
I am evaluating the possibility of replacing the wifi + bt chip...
GeorgeM269 said:
I hear you buddy, I have a KGL as well upgraded from px3 to px5 board, and also soldered a proper wifi antenna.
In my experience, if wifi is connected (tethering phone data for example) I am unable to pair the phone using Bluetooth.
I normally turn off the wifi on the head unit pair the BT and then turn on the wifi again.
The drawback is that whenever bluetooth is paired, wifi does not transfer faster than about 3 Mbps.
The moment I turn wifi off, the wifi speed improves absurdly
I am evaluating the possibility of replacing the wifi + bt chip...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is one chip for both.. it is surface mounted.. good luck changing that..
May be an external Wi-Fi dongle of some soft. I do believe back in mtcb units they had succeeded going that road
i looked into this. the surface mounted chip is an usb interface connected device.
http://www.realtek.com/products/productsView.aspx?Langid=1&PFid=59&Level=5&Conn=4&ProdID=373
if it is a usb device one could try to desolder it and put an usb port there instead. and then connect a usb dongle with the same chip externally...
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/COMFAST-CF-WU725B-2016-Newest-Bluetooth_60474792223.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.31.2f898c12d58o8j
but honestly i doubt it will fix this.
btw. do you have this buzzing/humming sound in the spekers when using bluetooth handsfree? with the actual malaysk rom i cannot do one call i can hear nothing and peaopletelling me it sounds like a helicopter.
with HA rom it works 90%.
i haven't hooked up this unit to the car yet
zapedge said:
i looked into this. the surface mounted chip is an usb interface connected device.
http://www.realtek.com/products/productsView.aspx?Langid=1&PFid=59&Level=5&Conn=4&ProdID=373
if it is a usb device one could try to desolder it and put an usb port there instead. and then connect a usb dongle with the same chip externally...
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/COMFAST-CF-WU725B-2016-Newest-Bluetooth_60474792223.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.31.2f898c12d58o8j
but honestly i doubt it will fix this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have been brainstorming for a few days when I have had a chance to check how this chip could be replaced. While yes, it is surface mounted, it has its own circuit board which is then soldered to the main board. The module looks like this:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
and this is the pinout:
I have thought about ways of upgrading to a RTL8821CU instead, since the radio only takes 2.4 GHz wifi signals anyways.
http://www.realtek.com/products/productsView.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=21&PFid=60&Level=5&Conn=4&ProdID=386
Packages are similar (QFN 56 pins) so there should be modules built from these as well.
datasheet: http://en.ofeixin.com/downloadsfront.do?method=picker&flag=all&id=d0dc83f6-b71f-49ae-8469-2c8761f94551&fileId=64&isDownloadPermissions=true&memstate=/members_login.html
zapedge said:
btw. do you have this buzzing/humming sound in the spekers when using bluetooth handsfree? with the actual malaysk rom i cannot do one call i can hear nothing and peaopletelling me it sounds like a helicopter.
with HA rom it works 90%.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do hear the noise as well, running Malaysk too, it has not been as rough in my experience, mostly only noticeable when the car is stationary. I did have to change the mic because it sounded like I was in a construction zone, lots of random noises during calls.
today i removed the antenna from my device entirely.
absolutely no difference. ist seems the antenna is not connected to the wifi chip which would perfectly explain why we have this bad wifi reception....
did a check on spareparts on aliexpress. found the following
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/RTL8723BU-USB-Interface-WIFI-BT-Wireless-internet-MID-GPS-Bluetooth-WIFI-wireless-module/32466684026.html
there are some specs listed in the most detailed form i could find yet.
bullet 5 describes how an antenna for the chip should be built.
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1eGojJpXXXXXKXpXXq6xXFXXXc/116872914/HTB1eGojJpXXXXXKXpXXq6xXFXXXc.jpg?size=143645&height=751&width=512&hash=992dd655945fb5ee7d91c23ad7a3a04a
could the missing condensers be the issue?
im not that into high fequency electronics. but i think i remember condenser in line is a hipass-filter...
maybe there are some low frequencys interfering with the chip?
i removed the BT cable antenna completely and it made no difference.. i thought that might reduce the impact, but interference is the same. useless.. i am returning the stupid KGL thing.. absolutely crap
I have the same problem and decided to apply a simple solution.
The issue is produced for interference between wifi and bluetooth signals. They are in near frequencies and hardware doesn't have enougth protection.
So, I decided to turn wifi off anytime I must use bt for a phone call. All interferences completely dissapear and phone conversation is clear both sides of the line.
Hi, i found a solution for the problem. I bought a USB wifi+BT dongle and i connected to the rear usb port of the unit. By restarting the system the bluetooth and wifi starting work again.
danielsat said:
Hi, i found a solution for the problem. I bought a USB wifi+BT dongle and i connected to the rear usb port of the unit. By restarting the system the bluetooth and wifi starting work again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you give us a link of the dongle?
I thought external dongles don't work on threes machine..
Nomader0 said:
Can you give us a link of the dongle?
I thought external dongles don't work on threes machine..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Comfast wu725b is said to work with these units and will override the built in module. Just search for it on Ali or eBay. Or search for wifi bt dongle and look for it. My phone wont let me copy the link at the moment for some reason
Skickat från min ONEPLUS A3003 via Tapatalk
WarSpaz said:
Comfast wu725b is said to work with these units and will override the built in module. Just search for it on Ali or eBay. Or search for wifi bt dongle and look for it. My phone wont let me copy the link at the moment for some reason
Skickat från min ONEPLUS A3003 via Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
does that overide thw wifi module or both wifi and BT?
Nomader0 said:
does that overide thw wifi module or both wifi and BT?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As i have understood it, it will override the bt automatically and still let you use the built in wifi if you want, but you can also use the dongles wifi module if wanted
Skickat från min ONEPLUS A3003 via Tapatalk
I've had similar problems with a KGL MTCD/MTCE unit (2GB RAM, PX5, with MTCD MCU). The problem isn't the ROM, but for reference, I'm running Malaysk's latest PX5 ROM. Most notably, I experience significant break-up using bluetooth for calls. Additionally, I'm unable to pick up WiFi from inside my house out in my driveway, though various phones and laptops can do this acceptably well.
We opened the unit, found bad soldering at the WiFi/Bluetooth module, and attempted to repair it. We replaced the antenna with an SMA pigtail and longer antenna, and removed a soldered short in the board. We then powered back up with the new antenna, and found the signal no better, and in fact possibly worse than before (we may have damaged something when trying to fix the module).
We also noted that there is a small antenna printed on the bottom side of the board. There were several problems with this. First, the "internal" antenna was "connected" (more on that in a second) to RF1. RF1 on the specs for this module as published by a number of sellers on AliExpress shows RF1 as being no contact. So, we're not even sure how that's supposed to work. Second, I said "connected" before, because the soldering was bad and apparently didn't really have a connection at all. Third, being an antenna on the underside of the board inside a metal case will probably preclude it from working at all anyway.
The biggest problem is likely metal under the dash of my car, which prevents WiFi from being picked up well under there. The antenna needs to be moved out from under the dash.
I considered getting an SMA extension cable to simply move the antenna. However, at the end of the day, I've ordered a USB module, in the hopes of getting it to work. The module is listed as "USB WiFi Bluetooth Adapter, Wireless WiFi Dongle Network Adapter 150Mbps & Bluetooth Transmitter Receiver with External Antenna for Desktop/Laptop/PC, Supports Windows 7/8/8.1/10/XP/Vista/Android" and sold by "iFun4U" on Amazon.com. The unit has a larger antenna than the Comfast unit previously mentioned, and appears to use the same Realtek RTL8723BU chipset that the onboard module uses (typo'd in the listing as "Realteck TRL7823BU"). Here's a link to it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JYE5BT2
My hope is that by plugging this unit in and restarting the system, the wireless kernel module will pick up the external USB device first and register it as wlan0, making any further configuration unnecessary. If that fails, I'll look into ways to specifically assign my external device as wlan0. Worst-case, I'll open my unit back up and de-solder the USB data pins on the module.
I'll let you know how it goes.
Update -- on my KGL unit, simply plugging in the new WiFi/Bluetooth dongle caused the system to crash when booting. We ultimately had to disable the onboard Realtek chip by cutting the power trace to the board. After that, the system boots right up, and the Wifi works quite well.
wondering if this also means A2DP audio streaming is clear now too?
jpreston84 said:
Update -- on my KGL unit, simply plugging in the new WiFi/Bluetooth dongle caused the system to crash when booting. We ultimately had to disable the onboard Realtek chip by cutting the power trace to the board. After that, the system boots right up, and the Wifi works quite well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which trace disable power on chip?
Someone test antes USB hub to confirm that It works?
Thanks you
newbie_vlc said:
Which trace disable power on chip?
Someone test antes USB hub to confirm that It works?
Thanks you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please check the post earlier in this thread by GeorgeM269, which shows pictures of the pinout for the board. To be honest, if you cannot use those to determine the pinout of the board, I do not recommend you attempt to cut a trace. You could destroy your head unit, and I accept no liability for that. Do this at your own risk.
- If you have opened the unit, and are looking top-down into the unit, with the face-plate on the top side, and the back panel on the bottom side.
- From that angle, on what I'll call the left-side of the small board, you'll see 4 connections, which are GND, RF0, RF1, CLK. RF0 runs to the antenna connection on the board.
- On what I'll call the bottom edge of the board, there are 6 contacts which have have no connection.
- On what I'll call the right edge of the board, there are 4 connections which represent a USB connection to the system. From top to bottom, these are GND, Data+, Data-, PWR (3.3V). The 3.3V power connection, on the bottom right of the board, is the one we cut.
- Check your results with a meter to be sure you've fully cut through the trace.
For what it's worth, this mod is still working without issues.
I'm not sure what "antes USB hub" is. I can tell you there are no issues with using the USB hub I purchased. Personally, I ended up plugging my USB WiFi/BT dongle onto one of the ports on the rear of the head unit.
GeorgeM269 said:
I have been brainstorming for a few days when I have had a chance to check how this chip could be replaced. While yes, it is surface mounted, it has its own circuit board which is then soldered to the main board. The module looks like this:
and this is the pinout:
I have thought about ways of upgrading to a RTL8821CU instead, since the radio only takes 2.4 GHz wifi signals anyways.
http://www.realtek.com/products/productsView.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=21&PFid=60&Level=5&Conn=4&ProdID=386
Packages are similar (QFN 56 pins) so there should be modules built from these as well.
datasheet: http://en.ofeixin.com/downloadsfront.do?method=picker&flag=all&id=d0dc83f6-b71f-49ae-8469-2c8761f94551&fileId=64&isDownloadPermissions=true&memstate=/members_login.html
I do hear the noise as well, running Malaysk too, it has not been as rough in my experience, mostly only noticeable when the car is stationary. I did have to change the mic because it sounded like I was in a construction zone, lots of random noises during calls.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ordered this USB stick off eBay Link. It has the RTL8821CU chipset with Bluetooth 4.2, wifi ac standard, and 5ghz Frequency. The radio does pick it up as a USB device but it doesn't have a driver built into the kernel. I'm going to see if I can build a kernel module and get it to load. Just a little hesitant to try because if it causes the kernel to crash i'll have to lose my settings/info to restore it as I don't have ADB set up yet.
Related
Has anyone been able to find a micro usb cable that has a 3.5mm audio jack on the other end, that can also charge the phone via USB? I have found a few examples of homemade contraptions that people have posted on XDA, but nothing polished enough to actually convince me they work. I am trying to be able to charge my phone in the car, while playing audio out via the micro usb port. In theory, this should alleviate my phone from trying to pump out bluetooth phone conversations thru the headphones jack during a call.
Thx, in advance.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but as far as I know these devices aren't able to receive power via the headphone jack you would need to open the phone and solder a connection between the headphone jack and USB port to get it to charge remember doing something similar to get PSPs to charge via USB back in the day
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
Think I might have figured this out...
This cable:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-USB-male-to-30P-Female-data-charge-M-F-adapter-for-Apple-iPhone-iPod-cable-/180962749596?pt=UK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL&hash=item2a22386c9c
Plus This cable:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-AUX-USB-Audio-White-Cable-for-iPhone-iPod-iPad-BMW-Volvo-Sony-Ford-/320961010005?pt=US_Tablet_Accessories&hash=item4abac45955
Should allow me to charge the phone while NOT using the headphones jack... and hopefully let my bluetooth in the car take over during a call. Gonna have to wait a bit for shipping, but I will update you as it comes in. Now, if I could simply find someone who makes a solid cable that doesn't require me to connect two separate ones, I would be golden.
darkfox2002 said:
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but as far as I know these devices aren't able to receive power via the headphone jack you would need to open the phone and solder a connection between the headphone jack and USB port to get it to charge remember doing something similar to get PSPs to charge via USB back in the day
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I probably mispoke. Here's what I am up against, and trying to do.
The S3 currently has no ability to switch audio out devices during a phone call, if the headphone jack is in use. The option to switch to bluetooth headset is there, but it's grayed out. What does that mean? If I am using the heaphones jack, and connecting that to the aux in port in my car... I am unable to use my car's bluetooth to make or receive calls.
My way around this is to figure out how to get audio out via the micro USB port, while still retaining a way to charge the phone. Most BMW autos from the past 7 years or newer have their BMW to iPod cable, which has the male 30p iPod connector at one end, and a USB + 3.5mm jack at the other end. What I need to find is a way to connect the 30p iPod connector to the S3 micro USB. I have only found the cable I linked above... but will keep looking. Just wondering if others have found a way around this, other than using a bluetooth A2DP bluetooth streaming device like a parrot or the belkin version.
Unless you are using that cable with an iPod you won't get sound to output through it. Trust me I've tried it on my 2008 BMW and it didn't work. Are you trying to get it to work over the cars Bluetooth or a headset? To me it seems like an aux Bluetooth dongle like those made by blackberry may suit your needs
Amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00170KUM0
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
darkfox2002 said:
Unless you are using that cable with an iPod you won't get sound to output through it. Trust me I've tried it on my 2008 BMW and it didn't work. Are you trying to get it to work over the cars Bluetooth or a headset? To me it seems like an aux Bluetooth dongle like those made by blackberry may suit your needs
Amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00170KUM0
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am trying to get the phone call audio over the bluetooth in the car. When anything is plugged into the headphones jack, the phone automatically routes it thru there, killing my phone calls. The car thinks it's using the bluetooth, the phone thinks it's using the headphones... end result, no sound, unless I unplug the headset each time.
The bluetooth dongle from blackberry I found for $200, bleh, not paying that. Why did the bmw cable not work for you? Also, where did you find your female 30p cable?
The easy fix is for samsung to update the phone so I can switch audio devices in a call...
Thx, in advance.
I'm also very interested in this. It sounds like we could do it on software. I'm sure it's been done in cyanogenmod before, but I'd like to have it for TW.
Anyone have any idea where to look (what apk, files, etc)? I'm no 1337 dev, but I can hack my way around apks and write java.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda premium
In the same boat
mdt73 said:
Has anyone been able to find a micro usb cable that has a 3.5mm audio jack on the other end, that can also charge the phone via USB? I have found a few examples of homemade contraptions that people have posted on XDA, but nothing polished enough to actually convince me they work. I am trying to be able to charge my phone in the car, while playing audio out via the micro usb port. In theory, this should alleviate my phone from trying to pump out bluetooth phone conversations thru the headphones jack during a call.
Thx, in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have experienced this same issue. My 2008 Acura TL has Hands Free (Bluetooth) but no way to connect external audio player other than with the Aux connection. So when I have the phone plugged in to the Aux and I receive a call I have to unplug the Aux first, then take the call, then plug the Aux back in when the call is over.
I think the resolution is going to have to be a software update/patch that fixes the source used for audio a when call is received.
All, I was able to find a solution that worked for me. While in the car I can charge the phone, play music, and still answer calls hands free (with fully working two way communication) all from only the usb port.
I am running a TW based rom (Bean's R11 with Lean Kernel 0.9). I'm confident this will work in all TW roms and will most likely work in AOSP roms as well (although I haven't tried it).
The solution I used was to make a custom USB cable.
Our phone (along with almost every Android phone) uses a micro usb B port. A micro usb B port has 5 pins (Vcc, D-, D+, IDCON, GND).
http://pinoutsguide.com/CellularPhones-P-W/samsung_cell_micro_usb_pinout.shtml
The 3.5mm aux input in my car has 3 connectors (Tip, Ring, and Sleeve).
http://pinouts.ru/Home/Tele35s_pinout.shtml
Tip=Left Audio
Ring=Right Audio
Sleeve=signal gnd
This post pretty much sums it up http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=14846636&postcount=9
In a nutshell you connect pin 2 (D-) of the micro usb B connector to the left audio (tip), pin 3 (D+) to right audio (ring), pin 5 (GND) to the signal gnd (sleeve), and pin 4 (IDCON) to a large resistor (I used 470K ohm) which connects to pin 5 (GND). The resistor is absolutely needed in order to limit current.
To enable charging, connect a car charger Vcc (+5v) to pin 1 of the micro usb B connector (Vcc) and gnd to pin 5 (GND). As gnd in a car is ultimately going to the same place (chassis), we don't need to worry about differing grounds.
When you plug this cable into your phone, the presence of the resistor between IDCON and GND triggers the phone to enter "dock mode". If you go into settings, dock, and check "Output Audio Mode", then an analog audio signal will be output over the data lines (and GND) of the micro usb port.
This worked well in my car and did not mess with the bluetooth microphone.
This could also be adapted for an iphone connector (if your car doesn't have a convenient 3.5mm aux jack). See the pinout for details.
http://pinouts.ru/PortableDevices/ipod_pinout.shtml
I am going to order some electronic parts to make a nice clean cable that will last a while. When I get around to ordering the parts, I'll try to remember to post the list here.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda premium
I bought the car dock from vzw with my s3 that actually had this very cable... usb on one end with the other end split into micro usb and 3.5mm jack
Couldnt tell you if it would work the way you are asking though... every phone ive ever used always puts a headphone jack as priority over a bluetooth device until disabled or Bt settings are reconfigured to phone only on bt, media audio left unchecked
Granted... my car might not be as smart as yours id really like to get audio through micro usb running as well without having a mess of ghetto rigged wires all across my dash
mybook4 said:
I am going to order some electronic parts to make a nice clean cable that will last a while. When I get around to ordering the parts, I'll try to remember to post the list here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FYI,
I ordered this cable and am going to use the configuration described here.
I already have the resistor and one of the DIY micro usb connectors with housing laying around, but this would also work.
It really is quite a clean setup. Besides, the paranoid side of me would rather make the cable rather than buy one because I know exactly what the cable circuit is. I'm sure a lot of cables out there just short pins 4 and 5 on the micro usb connector (to save the cost of acquiring/installing the resistor).
I would also like to know a solution to this issue, as it is in the software. I ran ASOP JB on the Nexus and the S3 and they always routed the phone calls over my BT earpice even when I had the headphone jack plugged in for music.
My music would pause while on the phone and resume as soon as I hung-up the call.
I hope a dev can sort this out in the TW ROMS, as they are so much more stable than the AOSP that is out at the moment.
My question is if your car has blue tooth why not use blue tooth audio and charge your phone that is what I do in my fusion
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda premium
jonapunk said:
My question is if your car has blue tooth why not use blue tooth audio and charge your phone that is what I do in my fusion
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks that is what i was doing.. i'm wondering why all this trouble..
Issue resolved
I resolved this issue for myself by building a cable similar to the ones mentioned in this thread.
Here is my proof of concept. Working perfectly for me. PM me if you need info about the cable.
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Hey guys,
Does any of you knows if the MTCD head-units provide 12v power over the FM antenna connector?
Most cars antennas these days require power either over the coaxial cable or separately.
My original multimedia system in the car had times better reception than my MTCD unit.
BTW my car is a Great Wall Hover H6 (also known as Haval H6) a Chinese SUV.
OrionBG said:
Hey guys,
Does any of you knows if the MTCD head-units provide 12v power over the FM antenna connector?
Most cars antennas these days require power either over the coaxial cable or separately.
My original multimedia system in the car had times better reception than my MTCD unit.
BTW my car is a Great Wall Hover H6 (also known as Haval H6) a Chinese SUV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi There,
My MTCD (GS) unit has a separate "ANT" wire which is used to power the antenna, the antenna connector itself is not powered and I don't believe any of them are.
Hope that helps.
sirleeofroy said:
Hi There,
My MTCD (GS) unit has a separate "ANT" wire which is used to power the antenna, the antenna connector itself is not powered and I don't believe any of them are.
Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I remember the ANT wire and supposedly it is connected but still the reception is bad.
Most VAG cars for instance, after 1997 are using powered antennas and the stock radios are providing power to the antenna trough the antenna cable itself. There are many adapters for aftermarket radios like THIS one for instance.
I'm not sure from what car the Chinese copied the antenna assembly... the entire Dashboard looks very similar to a Honda CRV but who knows...
OrionBG said:
I remember the ANT wire and supposedly it is connected but still the reception is bad.
Most VAG cars for instance, after 1997 are using powered antennas and the stock radios are providing power to the antenna trough the antenna cable itself. There are many adapters for aftermarket radios like THIS one for instance.
I'm not sure from what car the Chinese copied the antenna assembly... the entire Dashboard looks very similar to a Honda CRV but who knows...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The adaptor you linked to is similar to what I use for my DAB+ however, my FM reception was fine before I was using that. I have the adaptor so that I can pick up DAB+ signal via my normal non-powered antenna.
Where have you connected the "ANT" wire?
sirleeofroy said:
The adaptor you linked to is similar to what I use for my DAB+ however, my FM reception was fine before I was using that. I have the adaptor so that I can pick up DAB+ signal via my normal non-powered antenna.
Where have you connected the "ANT" wire?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be fair I don't remember, but I do remember something called antenna power (or something similar). I'll be upgrading my PX3 board to PX5 soon so I'll double check everything again.
OrionBG said:
Hey guys,
Does any of you knows if the MTCD head-units provide 12v power over the FM antenna connector?
Most cars antennas these days require power either over the coaxial cable or separately.
My original multimedia system in the car had times better reception than my MTCD unit.
BTW my car is a Great Wall Hover H6 (also known as Haval H6) a Chinese SUV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a separate wire, labeled many times ant_power or ant.. The cable-color is blue. It provides +12 at power on.
I have the same problem. I tried an adapter but no results.
If someone find a solution, it could be nice.
Just wondered if anyone has any suggestions.
I use DAB a lot but I have to keep the screen brightness on the lowest setting otherwise it kills the signal to the dab the more I increase the brightness.
I’m using a KGL px5 octo core, I’ve updated to MTCE firmware and the latest kgl mcu and I have tried with GS firmware before but still the problem is there. I have changed factory settings for screen brightness etc but still no luck. Today I cut a usb cable open and tested it with a multimeter when the screen was on full brightness with DAB on and the voltage was perfect and didn’t decrease when I turned the brightness up. I’m using the modded zoulou app and I’m pretty sure this problem was there when i used the standard app.
I’m out of ideas of what it can be.
The only thing I haven’t changed is the little DAB box, could it be this?
Could it be a software bug or could there be some other sort of hardware fault?
Anyone any ideas????
The question is what DAB+ receiver you're using. I personally ordered this black aluminum box with 8-pin connector along with my head unit. It never worked properly. Ended up replacing it with a Joying DAB+ USB stick which simply worked out of the box.
It's just wild-guessing why your reception is depending on screen brightness. There might be some interferences with the DAB+ box itself or the cable where it's connected. So another (shielded) cable might help. If you also got some DAB+ box with proprietary connector I recommend you to go for an USB one. I just glued my one on top of the head unit using some velcro tape so I can also easily remove it if required.
SkyBeam2048 said:
The question is what DAB+ receiver you're using. I personally ordered this black aluminum box with 8-pin connector along with my head unit. It never worked properly. Ended up replacing it with a Joying DAB+ USB stick which simply worked out of the box.
It's just wild-guessing why your reception is depending on screen brightness. There might be some interferences with the DAB+ box itself or the cable where it's connected. So another (shielded) cable might help. If you also got some DAB+ box with proprietary connector I recommend you to go for an USB one. I just glued my one on top of the head unit using some velcro tape so I can also easily remove it if required.
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The dab box I’m using was supplied by erisin it is the right one it is a little square shaped box with a mcx connection for antenna and a micro usb connection for power from the headunit. I did wonder if this could be faulty but I don’t see how screen brightness could affect this box.
I have noticed sometimes that when I pull the headunit out of the dash that with the screen brightness on full sometimes the dab will work but as soon as i push it back in the dash it goes off again and I have to put the brightness back down to minimum and then it will work fine again. Because of this i have thought it could be a loose usb connection as the usb’s Are on the back of the unit and there can’t be much space behind there when the unit is pushed back in but if that is the case I don’t understand why it works when putting the brightness back down to minimum. Having said that I have tried making the usb connections tighter by raising the prongs inside the usb slots and I have noticed that they only have prongs on the top or bottom inside the usb slots whereas on my laptop and phone charger they have prongs on the top and bottom inside the usb slot therefore giving a much much firmer fit. Maybe that is the problem but I don’t know and I can’t get it working and I’m out of ideas.
Be interesting to hear from other users that are using dab on a px5 especially if you are using it successfully with a similar setup to mine.
I’m using a KGL with the little plastic square dab box and a glass mount antenna(I don’t believe the antenna is the problem as the signal is brilliant when the brightness is down and I bought a new alpine antenna.)
I am afraid that likely nobody can tell you for sure. I guess your DAB+ receiver then is USB-based, meaning power AND data over USB. So it only has an USB port and an antenna port.
So there isn't much which gan go wrong here. Just make sure your antenna cable is firmly attached and not "bent" in too tight angles which could cause the antenna to malfunction.
My recommendation: Try all USB ports. Attach an USB extension cord to the USB port and route it out to your glove box or similar. Then connect the USB DAB+ receiver to the antenna in your glove box etc. Just to rule out a couple of things:
USB cable dos not get bent or connector gets lose (maybe your DAB+ receiver has an indicator LED when it's powered, if not, then you can check your USB while the headunit is firmly mounted by attaching an USB stick or similar)
Your antenna cable is not squeezed or bent when you push in the head unit
Your DAB receiver box does not pick up radio enterferences from the head unit by being too close to it (yes, those units are often insufficiently shielded, so just some distance sometimes helps!)
SkyBeam2048 said:
I am afraid that likely nobody can tell you for sure. I guess your DAB+ receiver then is USB-based, meaning power AND data over USB. So it only has an USB port and an antenna port.
So there isn't much which gan go wrong here. Just make sure your antenna cable is firmly attached and not "bent" in too tight angles which could cause the antenna to malfunction.
My recommendation: Try all USB ports. Attach an USB extension cord to the USB port and route it out to your glove box or similar. Then connect the USB DAB+ receiver to the antenna in your glove box etc. Just to rule out a couple of things:
USB cable dos not get bent or connector gets lose (maybe your DAB+ receiver has an indicator LED when it's powered, if not, then you can check your USB while the headunit is firmly mounted by attaching an USB stick or similar)
Your antenna cable is not squeezed or bent when you push in the head unit
Your DAB receiver box does not pick up radio enterferences from the head unit by being too close to it (yes, those units are often insufficiently shielded, so just some distance sometimes helps!)
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I’ve checked and changed cables etc, the cables are quite long though so there is a lot behind there which could get bent etc especially when the unit goes back. my feeling were that the usb cable were moving when im pushing the headunit back in but surely if this were the case then I’d struggle to use it all.
Your last point is interesting about moving the dab receiver box as I think I’ve always had it behind the headunit if I remember right so I might move that out of the way, but again why would screen brightness affect it?
ab1702 said:
but again why would screen brightness affect it?
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Just a wild guess: It might affect reception by some interference (brightness is PWM-modulated pulsing). On the other hand it could also be related to power consumption. If voltages are not stabilized sufficiently it could affect USB voltage to an extent where your DAB receiver does not work any more, but then you would likely lose complete USB connectivity (and you could try to overcome this by using a powered USB hub).
My last advise to put the receiver away from the unit into the glove box war mainly to be able to debug the USB port and antenna connections while the unit is firmly put into the slot.
I don't have much more ideas to share currently
SkyBeam2048 said:
Just a wild guess: It might affect reception by some interference (brightness is PWM-modulated pulsing). On the other hand it could also be related to power consumption. If voltages are not stabilized sufficiently it could affect USB voltage to an extent where your DAB receiver does not work any more, but then you would likely lose complete USB connectivity (and you could try to overcome this by using a powered USB hub).
My last advise to put the receiver away from the unit into the glove box war mainly to be able to debug the USB port and antenna connections while the unit is firmly put into the slot.
I don't have much more ideas to share currently
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Click to collapse
I can’t say for sure but I don’t think the voltage is anything to do with it as I have cut the end off a usb cable and plugged it into the unit and then pushed it back in and tested it with a multimeter and it had 5.3 volts. I thought that when I turned the brightness up it could be taking power away from the usb but that doesn’t appear to be the case. I also tried a y shaped usb cable so it has double the amount of power so 10volts should be going through it. This didn’t make any difference to my problem but it does make the antenna perform better.
I think the next thing I’ll be trying is moving the dab receiver away from the headunit and see how i get on with that(although I do think I have already tried this). It definately appears to be an interference problem but from what is the question?!
Well I’m still scratching my head with this.
Tried moving the dab receiver away from the headunit last night and it makes little difference.
I’m thinking it has to be something to do with the usb connection although I still don’t understand why it is linked to the brightness of the screen.
I can take the headunit out of the dash and turn the brightness up full and it will lose all signal but then I could move the headunit a little while still out of the dash and it goes to full signal and will stay there but as soon as i go to push the unit back in the car it goes off again. The strange thing is if i then do put the unit back in the dash then lower the brightness to the lowest setting then signal is perfect again.
I’m ready for throwing it out to be honest!.!
Does anyone know anything about noise interference on USB ports?
I’m thinking this could potentially be the cause.
I’ve just been reading that electrical devices can cause high frequency noise interference to usb devices so I’m just guessing here that when I turn screen brightness up it is interfering and the dab receiver can’t cope with it.
Anyone for an opinion on this or know anything about it?
I’m going to buy a ferrite bead to put on the usb cable before the dab receiver and see if this helps.
ab1702 said:
Does anyone know anything about noise interference on USB ports?
I’m thinking this could potentially be the cause.
I’ve just been reading that electrical devices can cause high frequency noise interference to usb devices so I’m just guessing here that when I turn screen brightness up it is interfering and the dab receiver can’t cope with it.
Anyone for an opinion on this or know anything about it?
I’m going to buy a ferrite bead to put on the usb cable before the dab receiver and see if this helps.
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you then solved, because I also have the problems problems
hi, my wifi on hotspot is very low, i can try to install external module usb wifi dual band, is possible in this radio ? exist module compatible ?
TetsuyaTsurugi said:
hi, my wifi on hotspot is very low, i can try to install external module usb wifi dual band, is possible in this radio ? exist module compatible ?
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Click to collapse
I've found this video, I don't know if it is of any help. But this guy changed the internal antenna for a external antenna and it improved the WiFi signal quality.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XVcrHv1chk
I do it on my px5 unit. I went to a electronic guy to make the connection. When its done the touch screen stop working. The bad news at those units from china is so cheap and poor designed which i will make a lot of problems if you are trying to mod them. In my case the original wifi antenna was connected on the board! No clip or connector. I think something do wrong the electronic guy.
So if you dont want to damage your unit just let it be.
Edit: TL;DR The wiring harness does not have Rear RCA outputs (only front and subwoofer). I had to splice in the RCA for the rear because there are pins outputting signal. (See solution below for details)
I'm running Hal9K Mod with Android 10 flashed. I bought this head unit a couple of years ago from iDoing on Aliexpress and I'm just installing a 4 channel amp for the front/rear door speakers and a monoblock amp for the rear sub. The sub RCA (brown) is sending signals fine and the FL Out/FR Out is sending signals fine, but the adapter dongle they sent with the head unit doesn't have RL Out and RR Out, like I would expect. Instead they have R IN and L IN! WTF? I contacted the seller and they were fairly useless. I plugged in my rear RCA pair into those but get no signal from them to the amp. Just to make sure that it wasn't the speakers or the amplifier, I switched the front and the rear RCA cables at the amp and then it sends signal, so I know the RCA cable is good, the amp is fine (at least on the front signals) and the speaker is fine.
Is there a software setting or another dongle that I can purchase that actually has the proper RCA outputs? I was expecting to unplug one dongle and plug this one in and then it would only send speaker signal to the RCAs but instead its still sending audio through the plain wires (I've only done one rear speaker so far). Anyone have this head unit and 2 Front, 2 Rear and one sub output?
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Attach pin outs of your unit / connection diagram
Where do I find them? I have the Lei Ma (LM) variant of the PX5.
Edit: The pinout on the MTCD and MTCE are different. This pinout won't help anyone with an MTCE. See solution below.
This is a screenshot of an MTCD schematic. I don't know if it's the same though
Here's the PX5 datasheet, but I didn't see any wiring pinouts in it.
I have a multimeter and I could test the pins if I know what to look for. I could likely isolate the signal by setting the fader to the left rear and then test each of the pins while music is playing, but I don't know what reading I'm looking for to tell me that I found the correct pin. Then once I find the correct pin, I'll need to figure out how to pull the RCA plug from the useless pin in the harness and insert it into the correct one.
I figured it out. I went to a local car audio electrician and we probed it together. I'm posting the solution here for anyone else with this head unit that wants to use Rear Audio RCA. The R IN and L IN are not outputs for the rear L and R speakers like the seller told me.
We had to cannibalize an RCA pair from another wiring harness (although you could repurpose R IN and L IN if you wanted). Here are the pinouts that you need:
- Left Rear RCA signal (white): 4th pin from the right on the bottom row.
- Right Rear RCA signal (red): 4th pin from the right on the top row.
- Shared negative (black): 7th pin from the right on the bottom row.
It works perfectly now. I hope this is helpful for anyone else.
Good result. Thanks for posting.
Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?
kukoladam said:
Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?
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Send it back/warranty
Agreed. If the wiring is setup like I have pictures and you still get no signal to any of the RCAs then it may have a defect or they didn't include some hardware.
Alternately you could purchase a line level converter and use the factory speaker wiring to create your signal for amps. Some amps even have this built in. My Rockford fosgate does.
objecttothis said:
Alternately you could purchase a line level converter and use the factory speaker wiring to create your signal for amps. Some amps even have this built in. My Rockford fosgate does.
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Click to collapse
The problem with that is there is no sub output. You would have to create your own.
Bob_Sanders said:
The problem with that is there is no sub output. You would have to create your own.
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Yeah, I misread @kukoladam s post. I thought he was getting sub output. Maybe a DSP then... But that's starting to get expensive. I'd send it back or start testing pins on the back of the unit. The way the car tech did this that I took it to is that he had a single wired headphone connected to a few probes. He switched the head unit on and turned on radio static with a reasonable volume then started probing using a known ground pin to see which pins were giving him output. Turns out my rear channels were on pins that the harness had no RCAs wired to.
There may be more eloquent ways to detect signal with a multimeter that someone with more experience than I could explain. In an ideal situation you would do this testing in a bench environment, but in a pinch you can do it on your car as long as your wiring allows you to pull the head unit out enough to probe the back.
Im a noob here. Sorry in advance for the dumb questions.
I have a similar issue but my RCA-RR and RCA-RL are on the 4 pin adapter. Which of course did not come with the radio.
Does anyone know where i can find this plug? Or even what these types of plugs are called?
From the attached pic you can see they are located in output socket C.
For the lifge of me i cant find a plug forthis socket.