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Hallo,
I got my new MTCD head unit. Its this one:
http://www.erisinwholesale.com/special-car-dvd/audi/erisin-es3078a-7-android-51-car-dvd-gps-dab-for-audi-a4-497.html
I have dont done much testing yet, but i want to connect my external mic first.
The HU is delivered with an small additional harness that included a external mic and a 4-pin connector on the other end. (see attached photo - connector E)
I want to cut this harness and solder a standard mic-jack onto it.
(and then desolder the internal mic)
Does anyone know the pin-out of this 4-Pin connector?!
I guess this is standard on many of the newer MTCD units?!
check with ohmeter the ohm value between gnd and signal and use similar specs mic.
Dear OP, Im very interested in you project. I have nearly the same unit but for A3. I also wanted to wait with the mic until i come up with a better solution than using the one which came with it. Do you know how to disable the standard handsfree function of the car? Now the "Mode" button always messes with the Mode of the headunit. Where is the cars' mic plugged into? How can I access this spot?
in some (i think it was russian) forum i came across the ROM wich connects via Bluetooth to the standard handsfree of the car before calling. But with the standard Rom so far i was not able to conect to it.
PS: Does your unit snap into the DIN booth like the original radio? Mine does not snap in and therefore is kinda loose
i am not sure how to measure the correct ohm value of a mic.
If i connect my multimeter to the factory ext. mic, i see 1,325 kOhm
If i connect it to my parrot mic, i see 1,660kOhm (i have attached a photo of this mic)
But anyhow, i am more interessted in the 4-pin plug, this head unit uses for the ext. mic. hook up.
As you can see on the attached photos, the lower two pins are jumpered.
And the upper two pins go to the mic.
I also found, that one of those two lower pins is a 5V supply on the head unit.
So this harness of the factory external mic seems to have some sort of switch function also...
But i am not sure, what it does...
And to answer Mighty_X´s questions:
I have no "mode" button on my head unit. Not sure, what you mean.?!
On my older MTCB unit, i just cutted the wires to the internal mic, and connected my parrot mic to the ext. mic connection.
But here, on this new Erisin MTCD, all connectors at the back of the unit are different...
regarding accuracy of fit:
The head unit didn´t fit in perfectly. Its a little bit wider at the bottom, than the original radio. If you carefully push a little harder you get it into a very good position. The cars dashboard is flexible enough for that. But thats not really a problem and its definitely not loose.
Pedaaa said:
And to answer Mighty_X´s questions:
I have no "mode" button on my head unit. Not sure, what you mean.?!
On my older MTCB unit, i just cutted the wires to the internal mic, and connected my parrot mic to the ext. mic connection.
But here, on this new Erisin MTCD, all connectors at the back of the unit are different...
regarding accuracy of fit:
The head unit didn´t fit in perfectly. Its a little bit wider at the bottom, than the original radio. If you carefully push a little harder you get it into a very good position. The cars dashboard is flexible enough for that. But thats not really a problem and its definitely not loose.
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Click to collapse
Thanks for your answer. I was refering to the Mode Button on the steering wheel.
Ahh, OK sorry
I only have the standard steering wheel without any buttons, so i can't comment on this
dont worry about 4pin conn, just check that the mic you want to use in head unit support that ohm input, otherwise the sound quality wont be good, just make "test-fail" until you get good result. just connect to 2 wires mic the mic you want to test...
But i do worry about this 4-Pin connector
If you connect the original ext.mic, the lower 2 pins are jumpered.
What internal effect would this have?
Is it just an input, that an ext. mic is connected?!
But why? Would the singals of the mic wont work without this input?
Or will this input maybe disable the internal mic?!
Then we wouldnt need to do the mod, by desolder or cut the internal mic on such units.
Thats just my thoughts, but i haven't done testing yet. Also i am not sure how i could figure it out exactly...
Pedaaa said:
But i do worry about this 4-Pin connector
If you connect the original ext.mic, the lower 2 pins are jumpered.
What internal effect would this have?
[..]
Thats just my thoughts[...]
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Click to collapse
Well, on my unit (Erisin 3047A) the ONLY reason why the lower 2 pins are "jumpered" is purely a mechanical issue: By having 4 wires and tied them together using a cable tie the two upper (small) cables are fixed in place. So: No actual use, just for mechanical reasons.
Did you have a cable tie on your 4 wires? From your pictures I cannot see it, perhaps you removed it?
Well, I just used my external micro from the installation before, and it works great.
Kind regards,
hardcoded74
Hi,
Ok, there were no reasons for my concerns.
I unsoldered the interal mic.
And then i soldered a headphone jack to the two wires of the original ext. mic harness.
The didnt touch the lower jumper wire.
And now:
It works great with my parrot mic! No echo, and really good quality in general! I am very happy now.
I also now installed a time-delay-relay for my rear view cam. Now the cam keeps going for apprx. 8 seconds, if i change to forward gears. Thats a great improvement also, that i can recommend
Pic of the modified harness
please poiint out, what headphone you used for this and the cables (by color) you connected to. (red to white for example)
thanks
Hello,
I use a PR2627 Parrot Twin Mic.
I cutted the standard ext mic and soldered a 2,5mm female jack instead of it. The white lead from the original cable goes to the "left" connection on the jack.
So the tip of the male 2,5mm pin will contact the white cable.
The black lead goes to the ground connection of the jack.
Thats it.
So, i use this Stereo mic only as a mono mic.
But it works great.
But i have to say also the original ext. mic. isnt that bad, if you disconnect the internal one.
I want to try to use the original Audi microphone. The ohmmeter says the Audi is 7,9kOhm and the mic wich came with the Erisin is 0.9kOhm. Is it possible to get good results here? What do you guys think?
I ll have to search were the wire goes wich is not to easy in Audi A3 (at least for me)
Edit: Like I thought the quality of the original mic used with the new head unit is pretty poor. dumb and very quiet. Not sure now if i get another mic, use the erisin one or maybe try a mic amplifier..
So if I understand this correct, the headunit keeps using the signal from the internal mic, even if there is an external mic connected? In essence, it gets mixed? No wonder everybody on the other end of the line is complaining that they don't understand a word I'm saying.
Is it easy to unsolder the internal mic?
HVB83 said:
So if I understand this correct, the headunit keeps using the signal from the internal mic, even if there is an external mic connected? In essence, it gets mixed? No wonder everybody on the other end of the line is complaining that they don't understand a word I'm saying.
Is it easy to unsolder the internal mic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can someone confirm this or disagree?
Mighty_X said:
Can someone confirm this or disagree?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You couldnt find the answer in the entire thread devoted to this issue Yes; if an an external mic input is factory, it is in parallel with the internal mic. This is a rookie design mistake.
Is there a way to change sensitivity of the external mic input? Did not find an option in the factory settings..
I unsoldered the internal mic now too. After first tests I can say say that doing that had no effect on the input sound quality or anything at all. And i found out that the internal and external mic wich came with it arethe same piece of hardware. I still wonder if there is a way to increase intensity of the mic without going over hardware amplifier. Have a kinda newer Ersisin model I guess
I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
ADB100 said:
I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
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Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
sirleeofroy said:
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
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I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
ADB100 said:
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
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Click to collapse
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
sirleeofroy said:
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
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My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
ADB100 said:
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
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Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
sirleeofroy said:
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The audio is supplied to the amp via a quad-lock connector. So the audio from the rear of the unit connects to this dongle on one side, out the other side of the dongle are four female RCA's. These are connected to four male RCA's that connect to the quad-lock connector. There are two blue wires labelled 'AMP-CON' that have male/female push-fit connectors and these are connected together - I am guessing this is the 12v to switch the amp on? There is also another blue wire labelled 'ANT' with a push-fit connector. This is connected to a green wire coming out of the antenna facra cable.
It was working and nothing has been disturbed so I am fairly sure its not been wired up incorrectly. I think something has broken...
I'll check with a multimeter that I am getting 12v on the AMP-CON cable from the back of the amp first.
Andy
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
ADB100 said:
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
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Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
sirleeofroy said:
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
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Hi, thanks for taking the time to help out. I don't think I described the cabling correctly. The AMP-CON and the ANT come from the same pin in the connector that plugs into the rear of the head unit (one wire comes out and then it splits into two and there is a bit of heat-shrink around the join. If I disconnect the ANT cable from the green wire that comes from the fakra adapter there is sound and the cable goes +10v. If I connect it back up there is a low 'thud' as it makes contact, the sound stops and the voltage drops to 0.something. It seems the fakra adapter is dragging the voltage down, hence why I think this adapter might be faulty.
Andy
I have the same issue now. We’re you able to resolve this?
I am also having this issue.. My HU turns on. Everything works perfectly... Just no sound. None at all. No factory amp. In a 2002 Silverado. I don't know if its the internal amp or what. Ideas?
Just wondered if anyone has any suggestions.
I use DAB a lot but I have to keep the screen brightness on the lowest setting otherwise it kills the signal to the dab the more I increase the brightness.
I’m using a KGL px5 octo core, I’ve updated to MTCE firmware and the latest kgl mcu and I have tried with GS firmware before but still the problem is there. I have changed factory settings for screen brightness etc but still no luck. Today I cut a usb cable open and tested it with a multimeter when the screen was on full brightness with DAB on and the voltage was perfect and didn’t decrease when I turned the brightness up. I’m using the modded zoulou app and I’m pretty sure this problem was there when i used the standard app.
I’m out of ideas of what it can be.
The only thing I haven’t changed is the little DAB box, could it be this?
Could it be a software bug or could there be some other sort of hardware fault?
Anyone any ideas????
The question is what DAB+ receiver you're using. I personally ordered this black aluminum box with 8-pin connector along with my head unit. It never worked properly. Ended up replacing it with a Joying DAB+ USB stick which simply worked out of the box.
It's just wild-guessing why your reception is depending on screen brightness. There might be some interferences with the DAB+ box itself or the cable where it's connected. So another (shielded) cable might help. If you also got some DAB+ box with proprietary connector I recommend you to go for an USB one. I just glued my one on top of the head unit using some velcro tape so I can also easily remove it if required.
SkyBeam2048 said:
The question is what DAB+ receiver you're using. I personally ordered this black aluminum box with 8-pin connector along with my head unit. It never worked properly. Ended up replacing it with a Joying DAB+ USB stick which simply worked out of the box.
It's just wild-guessing why your reception is depending on screen brightness. There might be some interferences with the DAB+ box itself or the cable where it's connected. So another (shielded) cable might help. If you also got some DAB+ box with proprietary connector I recommend you to go for an USB one. I just glued my one on top of the head unit using some velcro tape so I can also easily remove it if required.
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The dab box I’m using was supplied by erisin it is the right one it is a little square shaped box with a mcx connection for antenna and a micro usb connection for power from the headunit. I did wonder if this could be faulty but I don’t see how screen brightness could affect this box.
I have noticed sometimes that when I pull the headunit out of the dash that with the screen brightness on full sometimes the dab will work but as soon as i push it back in the dash it goes off again and I have to put the brightness back down to minimum and then it will work fine again. Because of this i have thought it could be a loose usb connection as the usb’s Are on the back of the unit and there can’t be much space behind there when the unit is pushed back in but if that is the case I don’t understand why it works when putting the brightness back down to minimum. Having said that I have tried making the usb connections tighter by raising the prongs inside the usb slots and I have noticed that they only have prongs on the top or bottom inside the usb slots whereas on my laptop and phone charger they have prongs on the top and bottom inside the usb slot therefore giving a much much firmer fit. Maybe that is the problem but I don’t know and I can’t get it working and I’m out of ideas.
Be interesting to hear from other users that are using dab on a px5 especially if you are using it successfully with a similar setup to mine.
I’m using a KGL with the little plastic square dab box and a glass mount antenna(I don’t believe the antenna is the problem as the signal is brilliant when the brightness is down and I bought a new alpine antenna.)
I am afraid that likely nobody can tell you for sure. I guess your DAB+ receiver then is USB-based, meaning power AND data over USB. So it only has an USB port and an antenna port.
So there isn't much which gan go wrong here. Just make sure your antenna cable is firmly attached and not "bent" in too tight angles which could cause the antenna to malfunction.
My recommendation: Try all USB ports. Attach an USB extension cord to the USB port and route it out to your glove box or similar. Then connect the USB DAB+ receiver to the antenna in your glove box etc. Just to rule out a couple of things:
USB cable dos not get bent or connector gets lose (maybe your DAB+ receiver has an indicator LED when it's powered, if not, then you can check your USB while the headunit is firmly mounted by attaching an USB stick or similar)
Your antenna cable is not squeezed or bent when you push in the head unit
Your DAB receiver box does not pick up radio enterferences from the head unit by being too close to it (yes, those units are often insufficiently shielded, so just some distance sometimes helps!)
SkyBeam2048 said:
I am afraid that likely nobody can tell you for sure. I guess your DAB+ receiver then is USB-based, meaning power AND data over USB. So it only has an USB port and an antenna port.
So there isn't much which gan go wrong here. Just make sure your antenna cable is firmly attached and not "bent" in too tight angles which could cause the antenna to malfunction.
My recommendation: Try all USB ports. Attach an USB extension cord to the USB port and route it out to your glove box or similar. Then connect the USB DAB+ receiver to the antenna in your glove box etc. Just to rule out a couple of things:
USB cable dos not get bent or connector gets lose (maybe your DAB+ receiver has an indicator LED when it's powered, if not, then you can check your USB while the headunit is firmly mounted by attaching an USB stick or similar)
Your antenna cable is not squeezed or bent when you push in the head unit
Your DAB receiver box does not pick up radio enterferences from the head unit by being too close to it (yes, those units are often insufficiently shielded, so just some distance sometimes helps!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I’ve checked and changed cables etc, the cables are quite long though so there is a lot behind there which could get bent etc especially when the unit goes back. my feeling were that the usb cable were moving when im pushing the headunit back in but surely if this were the case then I’d struggle to use it all.
Your last point is interesting about moving the dab receiver box as I think I’ve always had it behind the headunit if I remember right so I might move that out of the way, but again why would screen brightness affect it?
ab1702 said:
but again why would screen brightness affect it?
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Just a wild guess: It might affect reception by some interference (brightness is PWM-modulated pulsing). On the other hand it could also be related to power consumption. If voltages are not stabilized sufficiently it could affect USB voltage to an extent where your DAB receiver does not work any more, but then you would likely lose complete USB connectivity (and you could try to overcome this by using a powered USB hub).
My last advise to put the receiver away from the unit into the glove box war mainly to be able to debug the USB port and antenna connections while the unit is firmly put into the slot.
I don't have much more ideas to share currently
SkyBeam2048 said:
Just a wild guess: It might affect reception by some interference (brightness is PWM-modulated pulsing). On the other hand it could also be related to power consumption. If voltages are not stabilized sufficiently it could affect USB voltage to an extent where your DAB receiver does not work any more, but then you would likely lose complete USB connectivity (and you could try to overcome this by using a powered USB hub).
My last advise to put the receiver away from the unit into the glove box war mainly to be able to debug the USB port and antenna connections while the unit is firmly put into the slot.
I don't have much more ideas to share currently
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Click to collapse
I can’t say for sure but I don’t think the voltage is anything to do with it as I have cut the end off a usb cable and plugged it into the unit and then pushed it back in and tested it with a multimeter and it had 5.3 volts. I thought that when I turned the brightness up it could be taking power away from the usb but that doesn’t appear to be the case. I also tried a y shaped usb cable so it has double the amount of power so 10volts should be going through it. This didn’t make any difference to my problem but it does make the antenna perform better.
I think the next thing I’ll be trying is moving the dab receiver away from the headunit and see how i get on with that(although I do think I have already tried this). It definately appears to be an interference problem but from what is the question?!
Well I’m still scratching my head with this.
Tried moving the dab receiver away from the headunit last night and it makes little difference.
I’m thinking it has to be something to do with the usb connection although I still don’t understand why it is linked to the brightness of the screen.
I can take the headunit out of the dash and turn the brightness up full and it will lose all signal but then I could move the headunit a little while still out of the dash and it goes to full signal and will stay there but as soon as i go to push the unit back in the car it goes off again. The strange thing is if i then do put the unit back in the dash then lower the brightness to the lowest setting then signal is perfect again.
I’m ready for throwing it out to be honest!.!
Does anyone know anything about noise interference on USB ports?
I’m thinking this could potentially be the cause.
I’ve just been reading that electrical devices can cause high frequency noise interference to usb devices so I’m just guessing here that when I turn screen brightness up it is interfering and the dab receiver can’t cope with it.
Anyone for an opinion on this or know anything about it?
I’m going to buy a ferrite bead to put on the usb cable before the dab receiver and see if this helps.
ab1702 said:
Does anyone know anything about noise interference on USB ports?
I’m thinking this could potentially be the cause.
I’ve just been reading that electrical devices can cause high frequency noise interference to usb devices so I’m just guessing here that when I turn screen brightness up it is interfering and the dab receiver can’t cope with it.
Anyone for an opinion on this or know anything about it?
I’m going to buy a ferrite bead to put on the usb cable before the dab receiver and see if this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you then solved, because I also have the problems problems
Hi
Just wanted to ask advice here regarding my PX5 4gb oreo headunit. I appear to be having quite a bit of battery drain when away from the car. Ill try and give as much info as I can, but really my knowledge and understanding is very limited.
The unit I believe is manufactured by Hizpo (sticker on the side of unit) it has an XRC headunit on its latest firmware (2.89)
This is the second android headunit I have owned, the first being a Joying Sofia universal double din unit. I upgraded so I could have a unit designed to fit better in my car.
I have been finding every couple of months, if I do not go out in my car over the weekend, the battery is pretty much fully drained. Ive followed a couple of guides online and tested the parasitic draw with a multimeter. I appears to have a 0.25a drain when off, pulling fuses pointed to the radio circuit, and then removing the radio the drain went to pretty much to 0a.
The unit came supplied with the correct wiring harness for my 2011 honda crv.
I have then read a few posts about the headunits needing a constant 12v feed from the yellow wire, with the red wire being switched with the ignition. I have checked the volts from the harness, and when off, it is only the yellow wire that carries a 12v signal, so no faults with the harness. The wiring also matches the supplied wiring diagram supplied as a sticker on the unit.
This is the one thing that confuses me though. The wiring harness appears to be the opposite to my original Joying unit from last year. When I purchased the joying unit, I also purchased from a UK company a universal harness just in case I needed one, in the end I didn't, but both the Joying and this universal iso harness match in wiring configuration. This Hizpo unit, even though it is wired correctly as per their diagram, is the opposite to the other harnesses I have.
I have read comments from other posts about switching the red and yellow wires in similar situations as mine. Is this advised, is there a chance of breaking the unit if I try to do this?
Hope this all makes sense, apart from the battery drain the unit is perfect for my needs, annoyingly ive had this for 6 months now so probably can't really send back to the Aliexpress seller I purchased from.
Cheers
ciggybumly said:
Hi
Just wanted to ask advice here regarding my PX5 4gb oreo headunit. I appear to be having quite a bit of battery drain when away from the car. Ill try and give as much info as I can, but really my knowledge and understanding is very limited.
The unit I believe is manufactured by Hizpo (sticker on the side of unit) it has an XRC headunit on its latest firmware (2.89)
This is the second android headunit I have owned, the first being a Joying Sofia universal double din unit. I upgraded so I could have a unit designed to fit better in my car.
I have been finding every couple of months, if I do not go out in my car over the weekend, the battery is pretty much fully drained. Ive followed a couple of guides online and tested the parasitic draw with a multimeter. I appears to have a 0.25a drain when off, pulling fuses pointed to the radio circuit, and then removing the radio the drain went to pretty much to 0a.
The unit came supplied with the correct wiring harness for my 2011 honda crv.
I have then read a few posts about the headunits needing a constant 12v feed from the yellow wire, with the red wire being switched with the ignition. I have checked the volts from the harness, and when off, it is only the yellow wire that carries a 12v signal, so no faults with the harness. The wiring also matches the supplied wiring diagram supplied as a sticker on the unit.
This is the one thing that confuses me though. The wiring harness appears to be the opposite to my original Joying unit from last year. When I purchased the joying unit, I also purchased from a UK company a universal harness just in case I needed one, in the end I didn't, but both the Joying and this universal iso harness match in wiring configuration. This Hizpo unit, even though it is wired correctly as per their diagram, is the opposite to the other harnesses I have.
I have read comments from other posts about switching the red and yellow wires in similar situations as mine. Is this advised, is there a chance of breaking the unit if I try to do this?
Hope this all makes sense, apart from the battery drain the unit is perfect for my needs, annoyingly ive had this for 6 months now so probably can't really send back to the Aliexpress seller I purchased from.
Cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My joying the red and yellow we're backwards.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
ciggybumly said:
Hi
Just wanted to ask advice here regarding my PX5 4gb oreo headunit. I appear to be having quite a bit of battery drain when away from the car. Ill try and give as much info as I can, but really my knowledge and understanding is very limited.
The unit I believe is manufactured by Hizpo (sticker on the side of unit) it has an XRC headunit on its latest firmware (2.89)
This is the second android headunit I have owned, the first being a Joying Sofia universal double din unit. I upgraded so I could have a unit designed to fit better in my car.
I have been finding every couple of months, if I do not go out in my car over the weekend, the battery is pretty much fully drained. Ive followed a couple of guides online and tested the parasitic draw with a multimeter. I appears to have a 0.25a drain when off, pulling fuses pointed to the radio circuit, and then removing the radio the drain went to pretty much to 0a.
The unit came supplied with the correct wiring harness for my 2011 honda crv.
I have then read a few posts about the headunits needing a constant 12v feed from the yellow wire, with the red wire being switched with the ignition. I have checked the volts from the harness, and when off, it is only the yellow wire that carries a 12v signal, so no faults with the harness. The wiring also matches the supplied wiring diagram supplied as a sticker on the unit.
This is the one thing that confuses me though. The wiring harness appears to be the opposite to my original Joying unit from last year. When I purchased the joying unit, I also purchased from a UK company a universal harness just in case I needed one, in the end I didn't, but both the Joying and this universal iso harness match in wiring configuration. This Hizpo unit, even though it is wired correctly as per their diagram, is the opposite to the other harnesses I have.
I have read comments from other posts about switching the red and yellow wires in similar situations as mine. Is this advised, is there a chance of breaking the unit if I try to do this?
Hope this all makes sense, apart from the battery drain the unit is perfect for my needs, annoyingly ive had this for 6 months now so probably can't really send back to the Aliexpress seller I purchased from.
Cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also had this issue but found I had to disconnect a cable as part of my wiring harness that went into my mk6 Golf other wise it would not shut off with the accessories.
I don’t suppose you know which wire it was. As I say the iso harness matches the wiring diagram found on the head unit. All I’ve seen mention before is swapping the red and yellow wires but don’t want to do this and blow the unit!
ciggybumly said:
I don’t suppose you know which wire it was. As I say the iso harness matches the wiring diagram found on the head unit. All I’ve seen mention before is swapping the red and yellow wires but don’t want to do this and blow the unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The below link is the unit I purchased, if you scroll down around 3/4 of the page you will see a section outlining the dimensions and accessories.
Cable part 22 is what I need to disconnect to stop the battery drain.
Hope it might help
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/9-Andro...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Hi,
I'm looking for new android device as replacement for my Bosch stock nav in Suzuki Vitara 2018 GLX. I'm looking at Teyes CC3 or Mekede M500S. I do have few prerequisites
must have options
- compatibility with stock rear camera
- compatibility with steering wheel commands
- compatibility with stock microphone
- compatibility with stock USB ports
nice to have options
- compatibility with stock GPS module (maybe by using FAKRA adapter?)
So far all info I got for M500S is that it cannot use stock rear camera. Is it true? Can it be done with some adapters?
Thank you.
Racker_CRO said:
Hi,
I'm looking for new android device as replacement for my Bosch stock nav in Suzuki Vitara 2018 GLX. I'm looking at Teyes CC3 or Mekede M500S. I do have few prerequisites
must have options
- compatibility with stock rear camera
- compatibility with steering wheel commands
- compatibility with stock microphone
- compatibility with stock USB ports
nice to have options
- compatibility with stock GPS module (maybe by using FAKRA adapter?)
So far all info I got for M500S is that it cannot use stock rear camera. Is it true? Can it be done with some adapters?
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Mekede M500s does all 4 of those (oem mic, usb, swc and oem reverse camera on my Kia Sportage.
It just depends on your cars camera, and whether the reseller supplies the necessary adapters.
For example with my car I had to add 2 terminals to the wiring Mekede sent me in order to get the oem mic working.
The head unit was capable of all 4 options you want but the wiring sent to me only supported 3 of the 4.
Look in to your cars camera, what format the video is, what connector it uses, and see if you can find a seller offering a cable to connect the camera just in case 1 doesn't come with the unit.
j0hn83 said:
My Mekede M500s does all 4 of those (oem mic, usb, swc and oem reverse camera on my Kia Sportage.
It just depends on your cars camera, and whether the reseller supplies the necessary adapters.
For example with my car I had to add 2 terminals to the wiring Mekede sent me in order to get the oem mic working.
The head unit was capable of all 4 options you want but the wiring sent to me only supported 3 of the 4.
Look in to your cars camera, what format the video is, what connector it uses, and see if you can find a seller offering a cable to connect the camera just in case 1 doesn't come with the unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you. I decided to go with Mekede and I bought adapter cable for rev camera. It should all arrive in 2 weeks so I will know than if that was a good choice .
Today I got my stock radio out so I can note all connectors and maybe map them with M500S ones.
Here is a picture of stock Vitara Bosch head unit with description for each connector
GPS - you need FAKRA to SMA adapter
ANT - provided with M500S radio
DAB - you need to buy USB DAB device and FAKRA to SMA adapter (antenna you get with USB radio is not needed)
AUX - not used
MIC - this will be an issue since M500S doesn't have any connector for using stock mic in roof
CAM - you need extra adapter so you can use your stock camera with M500S
USB - compatible with M500S connector + you will get 2 extra USB connectors you can use
H BRAKE - not used on M500S, on stock one you need it to set up AA or mirrorlink
ISO/MAIN - speakers, power, etc.
So only one issue remains and that is how to use stock mics. This is all theoretical for now because I'm still waiting for unit and adapters.
Br.
So device came and of course there are issues.
- USB OEM cable is NOT compatible with M500S port for one USB
- I cant get reverse camera to work. I even bought THIS cable but any way I connect it it doesn't work as it should. I either have revers picture all the time or I don't have it at all.
If anyone can help with camera I would appreciate it. M500S reverse cable has 3 wires labeled "IR", "BRAKE" and "12V CAMERA". Main ISO plug has one purple labeled "BACK". If I connect purple, red and blue from adapter I have picture from camera all the time (shift in any position, neutral, drive, reverese). If I connect only red and purple same thing but with black screen and guidelines.
Racker_CRO said:
So device came and of course there are issues.
- USB OEM cable is NOT compatible with M500S port for one USB
- I cant get reverse camera to work. I even bought THIS cable but any way I connect it it doesn't work as it should. I either have revers picture all the time or I don't have it at all.
If anyone can help with camera I would appreciate it. M500S reverse cable has 3 wires labeled "IR", "BRAKE" and "12V CAMERA". Main ISO plug has one purple labeled "BACK". If I connect purple, red and blue from adapter I have picture from camera all the time (shift in any position, neutral, drive, reverese). If I connect only red and purple same thing but with black screen and guidelines.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The camera should be fairly simple to fault find but the wiring depends on whether you are using a canbus or not.
Answer that and someone will help with connecting the camera properly.
No canbus is used nor it is need for Vitara as I was told.
I'm guessing purple REV wire should get power once I put it in reverse and switch screen to backup camera. I measured voltage on blue wire from adapter and there is no voltage while in reverse.
Solved it! Reverse signal 12V was coming from HANDBRAKE connector. I added extra wire from that pin to purple and blue wires and everthing works.
Racker_CRO said:
So device came and of course there are issues.
- USB OEM cable is NOT compatible with M500S port for one USB
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is this what you're looking for?
j0hn83 said:
Is this what you're looking for?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YES! Thank you
Cable arrived and works like a charm. So far I managed to get almost all parts in Vitara to work with Mekede unit except external OEM mic. It will take some testing and soldering.