Edit: TL;DR The wiring harness does not have Rear RCA outputs (only front and subwoofer). I had to splice in the RCA for the rear because there are pins outputting signal. (See solution below for details)
I'm running Hal9K Mod with Android 10 flashed. I bought this head unit a couple of years ago from iDoing on Aliexpress and I'm just installing a 4 channel amp for the front/rear door speakers and a monoblock amp for the rear sub. The sub RCA (brown) is sending signals fine and the FL Out/FR Out is sending signals fine, but the adapter dongle they sent with the head unit doesn't have RL Out and RR Out, like I would expect. Instead they have R IN and L IN! WTF? I contacted the seller and they were fairly useless. I plugged in my rear RCA pair into those but get no signal from them to the amp. Just to make sure that it wasn't the speakers or the amplifier, I switched the front and the rear RCA cables at the amp and then it sends signal, so I know the RCA cable is good, the amp is fine (at least on the front signals) and the speaker is fine.
Is there a software setting or another dongle that I can purchase that actually has the proper RCA outputs? I was expecting to unplug one dongle and plug this one in and then it would only send speaker signal to the RCAs but instead its still sending audio through the plain wires (I've only done one rear speaker so far). Anyone have this head unit and 2 Front, 2 Rear and one sub output?
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Attach pin outs of your unit / connection diagram
Where do I find them? I have the Lei Ma (LM) variant of the PX5.
Edit: The pinout on the MTCD and MTCE are different. This pinout won't help anyone with an MTCE. See solution below.
This is a screenshot of an MTCD schematic. I don't know if it's the same though
Here's the PX5 datasheet, but I didn't see any wiring pinouts in it.
I have a multimeter and I could test the pins if I know what to look for. I could likely isolate the signal by setting the fader to the left rear and then test each of the pins while music is playing, but I don't know what reading I'm looking for to tell me that I found the correct pin. Then once I find the correct pin, I'll need to figure out how to pull the RCA plug from the useless pin in the harness and insert it into the correct one.
I figured it out. I went to a local car audio electrician and we probed it together. I'm posting the solution here for anyone else with this head unit that wants to use Rear Audio RCA. The R IN and L IN are not outputs for the rear L and R speakers like the seller told me.
We had to cannibalize an RCA pair from another wiring harness (although you could repurpose R IN and L IN if you wanted). Here are the pinouts that you need:
- Left Rear RCA signal (white): 4th pin from the right on the bottom row.
- Right Rear RCA signal (red): 4th pin from the right on the top row.
- Shared negative (black): 7th pin from the right on the bottom row.
It works perfectly now. I hope this is helpful for anyone else.
Good result. Thanks for posting.
Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?
kukoladam said:
Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Send it back/warranty
Agreed. If the wiring is setup like I have pictures and you still get no signal to any of the RCAs then it may have a defect or they didn't include some hardware.
Alternately you could purchase a line level converter and use the factory speaker wiring to create your signal for amps. Some amps even have this built in. My Rockford fosgate does.
objecttothis said:
Alternately you could purchase a line level converter and use the factory speaker wiring to create your signal for amps. Some amps even have this built in. My Rockford fosgate does.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem with that is there is no sub output. You would have to create your own.
Bob_Sanders said:
The problem with that is there is no sub output. You would have to create your own.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I misread @kukoladam s post. I thought he was getting sub output. Maybe a DSP then... But that's starting to get expensive. I'd send it back or start testing pins on the back of the unit. The way the car tech did this that I took it to is that he had a single wired headphone connected to a few probes. He switched the head unit on and turned on radio static with a reasonable volume then started probing using a known ground pin to see which pins were giving him output. Turns out my rear channels were on pins that the harness had no RCAs wired to.
There may be more eloquent ways to detect signal with a multimeter that someone with more experience than I could explain. In an ideal situation you would do this testing in a bench environment, but in a pinch you can do it on your car as long as your wiring allows you to pull the head unit out enough to probe the back.
Im a noob here. Sorry in advance for the dumb questions.
I have a similar issue but my RCA-RR and RCA-RL are on the 4 pin adapter. Which of course did not come with the radio.
Does anyone know where i can find this plug? Or even what these types of plugs are called?
From the attached pic you can see they are located in output socket C.
For the lifge of me i cant find a plug forthis socket.
Related
Has anyone been able to find a micro usb cable that has a 3.5mm audio jack on the other end, that can also charge the phone via USB? I have found a few examples of homemade contraptions that people have posted on XDA, but nothing polished enough to actually convince me they work. I am trying to be able to charge my phone in the car, while playing audio out via the micro usb port. In theory, this should alleviate my phone from trying to pump out bluetooth phone conversations thru the headphones jack during a call.
Thx, in advance.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but as far as I know these devices aren't able to receive power via the headphone jack you would need to open the phone and solder a connection between the headphone jack and USB port to get it to charge remember doing something similar to get PSPs to charge via USB back in the day
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
Think I might have figured this out...
This cable:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-USB-male-to-30P-Female-data-charge-M-F-adapter-for-Apple-iPhone-iPod-cable-/180962749596?pt=UK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL&hash=item2a22386c9c
Plus This cable:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-AUX-USB-Audio-White-Cable-for-iPhone-iPod-iPad-BMW-Volvo-Sony-Ford-/320961010005?pt=US_Tablet_Accessories&hash=item4abac45955
Should allow me to charge the phone while NOT using the headphones jack... and hopefully let my bluetooth in the car take over during a call. Gonna have to wait a bit for shipping, but I will update you as it comes in. Now, if I could simply find someone who makes a solid cable that doesn't require me to connect two separate ones, I would be golden.
darkfox2002 said:
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but as far as I know these devices aren't able to receive power via the headphone jack you would need to open the phone and solder a connection between the headphone jack and USB port to get it to charge remember doing something similar to get PSPs to charge via USB back in the day
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I probably mispoke. Here's what I am up against, and trying to do.
The S3 currently has no ability to switch audio out devices during a phone call, if the headphone jack is in use. The option to switch to bluetooth headset is there, but it's grayed out. What does that mean? If I am using the heaphones jack, and connecting that to the aux in port in my car... I am unable to use my car's bluetooth to make or receive calls.
My way around this is to figure out how to get audio out via the micro USB port, while still retaining a way to charge the phone. Most BMW autos from the past 7 years or newer have their BMW to iPod cable, which has the male 30p iPod connector at one end, and a USB + 3.5mm jack at the other end. What I need to find is a way to connect the 30p iPod connector to the S3 micro USB. I have only found the cable I linked above... but will keep looking. Just wondering if others have found a way around this, other than using a bluetooth A2DP bluetooth streaming device like a parrot or the belkin version.
Unless you are using that cable with an iPod you won't get sound to output through it. Trust me I've tried it on my 2008 BMW and it didn't work. Are you trying to get it to work over the cars Bluetooth or a headset? To me it seems like an aux Bluetooth dongle like those made by blackberry may suit your needs
Amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00170KUM0
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
darkfox2002 said:
Unless you are using that cable with an iPod you won't get sound to output through it. Trust me I've tried it on my 2008 BMW and it didn't work. Are you trying to get it to work over the cars Bluetooth or a headset? To me it seems like an aux Bluetooth dongle like those made by blackberry may suit your needs
Amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00170KUM0
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am trying to get the phone call audio over the bluetooth in the car. When anything is plugged into the headphones jack, the phone automatically routes it thru there, killing my phone calls. The car thinks it's using the bluetooth, the phone thinks it's using the headphones... end result, no sound, unless I unplug the headset each time.
The bluetooth dongle from blackberry I found for $200, bleh, not paying that. Why did the bmw cable not work for you? Also, where did you find your female 30p cable?
The easy fix is for samsung to update the phone so I can switch audio devices in a call...
Thx, in advance.
I'm also very interested in this. It sounds like we could do it on software. I'm sure it's been done in cyanogenmod before, but I'd like to have it for TW.
Anyone have any idea where to look (what apk, files, etc)? I'm no 1337 dev, but I can hack my way around apks and write java.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda premium
In the same boat
mdt73 said:
Has anyone been able to find a micro usb cable that has a 3.5mm audio jack on the other end, that can also charge the phone via USB? I have found a few examples of homemade contraptions that people have posted on XDA, but nothing polished enough to actually convince me they work. I am trying to be able to charge my phone in the car, while playing audio out via the micro usb port. In theory, this should alleviate my phone from trying to pump out bluetooth phone conversations thru the headphones jack during a call.
Thx, in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have experienced this same issue. My 2008 Acura TL has Hands Free (Bluetooth) but no way to connect external audio player other than with the Aux connection. So when I have the phone plugged in to the Aux and I receive a call I have to unplug the Aux first, then take the call, then plug the Aux back in when the call is over.
I think the resolution is going to have to be a software update/patch that fixes the source used for audio a when call is received.
All, I was able to find a solution that worked for me. While in the car I can charge the phone, play music, and still answer calls hands free (with fully working two way communication) all from only the usb port.
I am running a TW based rom (Bean's R11 with Lean Kernel 0.9). I'm confident this will work in all TW roms and will most likely work in AOSP roms as well (although I haven't tried it).
The solution I used was to make a custom USB cable.
Our phone (along with almost every Android phone) uses a micro usb B port. A micro usb B port has 5 pins (Vcc, D-, D+, IDCON, GND).
http://pinoutsguide.com/CellularPhones-P-W/samsung_cell_micro_usb_pinout.shtml
The 3.5mm aux input in my car has 3 connectors (Tip, Ring, and Sleeve).
http://pinouts.ru/Home/Tele35s_pinout.shtml
Tip=Left Audio
Ring=Right Audio
Sleeve=signal gnd
This post pretty much sums it up http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=14846636&postcount=9
In a nutshell you connect pin 2 (D-) of the micro usb B connector to the left audio (tip), pin 3 (D+) to right audio (ring), pin 5 (GND) to the signal gnd (sleeve), and pin 4 (IDCON) to a large resistor (I used 470K ohm) which connects to pin 5 (GND). The resistor is absolutely needed in order to limit current.
To enable charging, connect a car charger Vcc (+5v) to pin 1 of the micro usb B connector (Vcc) and gnd to pin 5 (GND). As gnd in a car is ultimately going to the same place (chassis), we don't need to worry about differing grounds.
When you plug this cable into your phone, the presence of the resistor between IDCON and GND triggers the phone to enter "dock mode". If you go into settings, dock, and check "Output Audio Mode", then an analog audio signal will be output over the data lines (and GND) of the micro usb port.
This worked well in my car and did not mess with the bluetooth microphone.
This could also be adapted for an iphone connector (if your car doesn't have a convenient 3.5mm aux jack). See the pinout for details.
http://pinouts.ru/PortableDevices/ipod_pinout.shtml
I am going to order some electronic parts to make a nice clean cable that will last a while. When I get around to ordering the parts, I'll try to remember to post the list here.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda premium
I bought the car dock from vzw with my s3 that actually had this very cable... usb on one end with the other end split into micro usb and 3.5mm jack
Couldnt tell you if it would work the way you are asking though... every phone ive ever used always puts a headphone jack as priority over a bluetooth device until disabled or Bt settings are reconfigured to phone only on bt, media audio left unchecked
Granted... my car might not be as smart as yours id really like to get audio through micro usb running as well without having a mess of ghetto rigged wires all across my dash
mybook4 said:
I am going to order some electronic parts to make a nice clean cable that will last a while. When I get around to ordering the parts, I'll try to remember to post the list here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FYI,
I ordered this cable and am going to use the configuration described here.
I already have the resistor and one of the DIY micro usb connectors with housing laying around, but this would also work.
It really is quite a clean setup. Besides, the paranoid side of me would rather make the cable rather than buy one because I know exactly what the cable circuit is. I'm sure a lot of cables out there just short pins 4 and 5 on the micro usb connector (to save the cost of acquiring/installing the resistor).
I would also like to know a solution to this issue, as it is in the software. I ran ASOP JB on the Nexus and the S3 and they always routed the phone calls over my BT earpice even when I had the headphone jack plugged in for music.
My music would pause while on the phone and resume as soon as I hung-up the call.
I hope a dev can sort this out in the TW ROMS, as they are so much more stable than the AOSP that is out at the moment.
My question is if your car has blue tooth why not use blue tooth audio and charge your phone that is what I do in my fusion
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda premium
jonapunk said:
My question is if your car has blue tooth why not use blue tooth audio and charge your phone that is what I do in my fusion
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks that is what i was doing.. i'm wondering why all this trouble..
Issue resolved
I resolved this issue for myself by building a cable similar to the ones mentioned in this thread.
Here is my proof of concept. Working perfectly for me. PM me if you need info about the cable.
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im looking for something to connect to the back of my stock radio in my Audi thats plays music and charges at the same time. is there anything out there that does this and doesnt break the bank? or am i asking for too much? Thanks
GrapeBandit said:
im looking for something to connect to the back of my stock radio in my Audi thats plays music and charges at the same time. is there anything out there that does this and doesnt break the bank? or am i asking for too much? Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes you are... first my new aftermarket stereo that has a USB input doesn't read the MP3 files off my S4 because the S4 doesn't have a mass storage option when you connect to USB. My old Droid Razr Maxx did have this function, so the stereo would see my SD card as storage. I don't think it's possible for a stock stereo to read the MP3's through USB if it's not a factory built-in feature.
What you need is an aux input and you can play music through your phone's app.
If your stock stereo doesn't have any type of aux input then you need to get a wired FM modulator. It gives you a powered isolated (no alternator noise while charging) input that connects in-line with your FM antenna. This is your best option for playing music from your phone to your older stock stereo.
http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-FM-MOD02-Universal-Modulator-Satellite/dp/B001QBG614
With that being said, for $150 I bought a new stereo with Bluetooth, aux, and USB input from Crutchfield and it came with free shipping, adapter kit, wiring harness, and instructions. I can also change songs and Pandora channels while streaming BT from the stereo
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X700BT/Pioneer-FH-X700BT.html?tp=5684
I still have my old wired FM modulator hooked up behind my dash, not being used I just forgot to take it out when I put in my new stereo a few weeks ago.
nice radio. my car has a single din, otherwise id go for an in-dash double din that can play dvd's.
this is what came with my car when i bought it. ipod adapter.lolz
http://blitzsafe.com/catalog/audi/audi-/-m-link1-v-1b/prod_111.html
this plugs in to the back of the radio and plays in the stock cd changer mode, not fm frequency.
if used with apple, it would charge wile playing, but not the case when using a 3.5mm headphone jack.
i had the female ipod to 3.5mm adapter so i can use it on my android, but the ipod cable that attaches to the interface broke. so im just looking for other options.
they have this, 8 pin mini din to female rca cable, then i can do male rca to 3.5mm adapter to get my android to work.
http://blitzsafe.com/catalog/universal/8-pin-mini-to-rca/prod_285.html
trying to figure out how i can play music and charge at the same time without using the damn cigarette lighter. i would probably need, if they even make them, and if it would even work, is male rca to 3.5mm jack and male micro usb
OK, AFAIK, playing music and charging at the same time isn't possible with a single standard Micro USB cable. Now, that said, I have a different setup that lets me do this when i drive. I bought the iBolt car dock for Samsung phones. it comes with a split cable that is Micro USB on one end and then splits into regular USB and AUX-Out on the other end. Connect the phone into the dock, then the AUX out into the radio (radio needs and Aux In) and finally the regular USB into the charger port. Also, make sure your Dock settings are turned on in Settings/Accessory.
Works pretty well for me and i have used it with S#m S4, Note 2 and Note 3. Doesn't work with S5 running stock ROM.
I know you were looking for a solution that did not need the cigarette lighter, but I hope this helps.
for the life of me I cant find male rca on one side that splits to a micro usb and 3.5mm headphone jack. I bet thats probably not even made. lol.
GrapeBandit said:
for the life of me I cant find male rca on one side that splits to a micro usb and 3.5mm headphone jack. I bet thats probably not even made. lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
does your car stereo have an Aux in for the 3.5 headphones? if so i see tons of micro usb to 3.5mm adapters available for cheap cheap, wont charge your phone though... thought about wireless charging dock for your car? they're around and kinda cheap. i charge my S4 all the time wirelessly even in my truck. also they do have apapter plugs around that you have to mount into your car ?(pulling out the radio and hooking either into the head unit or jumping the wires there. That'll give you both the usb and aux adapter
i just typed into Ebay mhl to RCA and you will get way better results
edit #2 this is from ebay micro usb to audio out, but once again cannot charge (limitations of electronics and stereos)http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-3-5mm-Micro-USB-Aux-Car-Audio-Cable-Adapter-Connector-For-Samsung-S3-S4-HTC-/251577813190?pt=US_Cell_Phone_PDA_Cables_Adapters&hash=item3a9334c8c6
FordNate said:
does your car stereo have an Aux in for the 3.5 headphones? if so i see tons of micro usb to 3.5mm adapters available for cheap cheap, wont charge your phone though... thought about wireless charging dock for your car? they're around and kinda cheap. i charge my S4 all the time wirelessly even in my truck. also they do have apapter plugs around that you have to mount into your car ?(pulling out the radio and hooking either into the head unit or jumping the wires there. That'll give you both the usb and aux adapter
i just typed into Ebay mhl to RCA and you will get way better results
edit #2 this is from ebay micro usb to audio out, but once again cannot charge (limitations of electronics and stereos)http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-3-5mm-Micro-USB-Aux-Car-Audio-Cable-Adapter-Connector-For-Samsung-S3-S4-HTC-/251577813190?pt=US_Cell_Phone_PDA_Cables_Adapters&hash=item3a9334c8c6
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a 8 pin mini din plug that I can hook a 3.5mm headphone jack to. adapter for that is like $5 lol
but that doesnt help for charging lol
so with that said, the car came with iphone/ipod cable that hooked into that 8 pin mini din plug, and that plays music and charges an apple product at the same time. dont have, never had, and never will have an apple product though
While this isn't really what you're asking for, IIRC Pioneers App Radio double din deck allows this... But it is going to break the bank, and from the reviews I remember reading a couple years ago it's not worth the $. I think they're on their 2nd or 3rd gen of this deck now though so maybe it has gotten better.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using XDA Free mobile app
jeren17 said:
While this isn't really what you're asking for, IIRC Pioneers App Radio double din deck allows this... But it is going to break the bank, and from the reviews I remember reading a couple years ago it's not worth the $. I think they're on their 2nd or 3rd gen of this deck now though so maybe it has gotten better.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using XDA Free mobile app
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trying to keep the stock look in my car, I think it looks good. factory bose system, but its only a single din tape deck...lol
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GrapeBandit said:
im looking for something to connect to the back of my stock radio in my Audi thats plays music and charges at the same time. is there anything out there that does this and doesnt break the bank? or am i asking for too much? Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have recently installed a Fusion CA-ML650BT 'Mechless' Head Unit in my 1994 model Mazda Astina. It has no moving parts, simply because it does not have a CD player. Not that it needs one, when I can plug in a USB flash drive full of MP3's, or my iPod, or connect my Galaxy i9505 to it via Bluetooth. I got it on special at an auto parts store for AU$99.00, but their regular retail price is AU$149.00.
What I want to know is, why do you want to keep the car's standard stereo? If you've got an Audi, then why haven't you got a couple of hundred dollars to get yourself a good single-DIN head unit? There is a huge range of single-DIN head units on the market, even those which slide out a large screen for you to watch movies on and also connect to a 'reversing camera' for extra safety.
These days, you don't need a CD player in your car, and I challenge anyone to prove to me why you do. Oh, and don't say, "So I can play DVD's on a 2-DIN screen!", because apps like MX Player and Neutron can stream video via BT into a head unit that accepts such streaming protocols (Alpine, Clarion, JVC and Sony already have such units in their range). The music you've got on compact disc can be converted to MP3 quite easily on a PC, and the top-ranked Android 'media player' apps play almost every standard format of audio and video.
For the latest music, you simply install into your computer a 'Youtube Downloader', then convert the music video you've grabbed to MP3 and you're off and running. Next step, buy a high-capacity Class 10 MicroSD card for your phone - eBay's the cheapest place for them - and fill it with those MP3's. Once you've got that, you 'pair' your phone with the head unit in your car, select 'BT-Audio' as the input source, set the phone's music player to 'Shuffle' and away you go. If you're listening to a song and think, "Urgh, I don't want to hear that now", you simply click the => button on your car stereo and it chooses another at random. With a i9505, you can even play music via Bluetooth while running a navigation app., and the music volume will drop while the GPS guy (or girl) says, "Turn left here!" The other great feature is, if you're driving around (with your phone connected to the stereo via BT) and get a phone call, the head unit will automatically shut off the music, answer the phone for you and you'll hear the caller's voice through your car stereo speakers.
With an increasing number of governments across the world introducing laws restricting mobile phone use whilst driving, these 'hands-free' systems are definitely a good thing, and also worth investing in to lessen the chance of the Police handing you a penalty notice. A bit of shopping around will get you a quality brand head unit at a good price. JVC, Fusion, Clarion, Kenwood, Alpine and Sony are the best manufacturers, they all have 'mechless' head units in their range and eBay is a great place to start your search.
Hope that helps you decide that a move to what is fast becoming standard equipment in vehicles everywhere is worth saving your pennies for...
GrapeBandit said:
I have a 8 pin mini din plug that I can hook a 3.5mm headphone jack to. adapter for that is like $5 lol
but that doesnt help for charging lol
so with that said, the car came with iphone/ipod cable that hooked into that 8 pin mini din plug, and that plays music and charges an apple product at the same time. dont have, never had, and never will have an apple product though
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
8 pin mini din plug to micro usb adapter or get a OTG cable and then a usb to ipoo (sorry 8 pin mini female cord).. mice AUDI though. i use BT in my truck. i just picked up one of those BT receivers and when i need to charge i just plug in with a cord to the aux/cigarette lighter., phone sits on my lap or under my leg and io use GoneMad or PowerAmp with Viper4Android and its all smooth
FordNate said:
8 pin mini din plug to micro usb adapter or get a OTG cable and then a usb to ipoo (sorry 8 pin mini female cord).. mice AUDI though. i use BT in my truck. i just picked up one of those BT receivers and when i need to charge i just plug in with a cord to the aux/cigarette lighter., phone sits on my lap or under my leg and io use GoneMad or PowerAmp with Viper4Android and its all smooth
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks! I love my audi's lol...have 2 right now and my 5th overall...I figured out what im going to do since we cant play music through our usb let alone charge and play music through usb at the same time. I will eventually get a mechless head unit like Shotty said, they can be had for cheap. I would probably play music through BT. I dont want to use a plug in car charger through the cigarette lighter outlet, so im going to hard wire in a 4post usb outlet under my center console to come out behind the e-brake handle. it will be a 12v to 5v 2amp unit, with 4 usb ports. they are cheap and I can do the wiring myself.
question, how is the quality of the music through BT? is it a digital quality or sub-standard like hooking up to play through my 3.5mm headphone jack?
GrapeBandit said:
thanks! I love my audi's lol...have 2 right now and my 5th overall...I figured out what im going to do since we cant play music through our usb let alone charge and play music through usb at the same time. I will eventually get a mechless head unit like Shotty said, they can be had for cheap. I would probably play music through BT. I dont want to use a plug in car charger through the cigarette lighter outlet, so im going to hard wire in a 4post usb outlet under my center console to come out behind the e-brake handle. it will be a 12v to 5v 2amp unit, with 4 usb ports. they are cheap and I can do the wiring myself.
question, how is the quality of the music through BT? is it a digital quality or sub-standard like hooking up to play through my 3.5mm headphone jack?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my 2009 Ranger I'm running a month old Pioneer head unit that pushes 50W x 4 to the speakers and to a Bazooka tube. the BT dongle/receiver is a class 2 receiver (i didnt realize our phones were class 4 till way later), but i notice a quality issue as compared to just running a wire. yes i still have the wire as back up but my audio profiles through V4A are just a bit different. BT seems more robust and louder with the music while the wire is ok, but the earphone plug can get dirty and sound is compromised.. the wire i seem to have to turn up the volume on the head unit just a little more (although slightly) for siiliar quality, tested without V4A installed as well as installed and with 3 players (GoneMad, PowerAmp, and Playerpro all paid versions). only problem so far i've encountered is i have to keep the dongle plugged into power all the time for it to push into my stereo, but it was $13 off ebay so i knew something might be wrong of course.
I was looking for a Pioneer unit with BT built in but nothing fit my budget at the time (Pioneer is known to fit Ford exactly with no size conflict and great sound)
GrapeBandit said:
I will eventually get a mechless head unit like Shotty said, they can be had for cheap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good idea, for not just music but the ability to make and receive phone calls hands-free.
I would probably play music through BT. Question, how is the quality of the music through BT? Is it a digital quality or sub-standard like hooking up to play through my 3.5mm headphone jack?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's exactly the same output quality as what you'd hear through a very good set of headphones. If you use the Samsung headphones that came with your device, you will hear poor quality sound no matter what it is. BT streams exactly what is being played, without any loss of sound quality, so it then depends on what the music player does to 'enhance' the track, and also the quality of the track itself. A song ripped from a CD as a 128kbps 22100Hz stereo MP3 sounds nowhere near as good as that same song from the same CD ripped as a 24bit 96000Hz *.FLAC. PowerAMP and Neutron play *.FLAC (Free Lossless Audio Codec) files, and direct stream them in all their glory and pure clarity to the BT receiver. It's then a case of having good quality speakers to reproduce that sound. Every stereo system on the planet is only as good as the speakers they're feeding sound to. You can have a $10,000 receiver+amplifier system but listening to that system through $10 speakers is a waste.
I don't want to use a plug in car charger through the cigarette lighter outlet, so I'm going to hard wire in a 4post usb outlet under my center console to come out behind the e-brake handle. it will be a 12v to 5v 2amp unit, with 4 usb ports. they are cheap and I can do the wiring myself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From an auto-electrician's point of view, do that off the cigarette lighter circuit, which will give you a 15A fused loop. Simplest way to do that is to splice in a new female cigarette lighter socket - behind the center console - off the main wiring harness leading to the existing lighter. Then plug an in-car micro USB charger into that female socket, wrap electrical tape around it to insulate and secure the connection, then run the charger lead out from behind the center console near a point where you situate the phone cradle/holder.
All of this is quite simple to do, if you don't go looking for the most complex solution.
i got this px5 KGL (erisin) for my sisters mercades b200
man this is terrible.. now i understand what people were complaining about..
when BT is connected to phone the wifi is useless!!
my KSP unit does not have this..
i have already soldered an external wifi antenna, but it does not help at all!!
how r people coping with that?
i am already on latest MCU 2.54..
I hear you buddy, I have a KGL as well upgraded from px3 to px5 board, and also soldered a proper wifi antenna.
In my experience, if wifi is connected (tethering phone data for example) I am unable to pair the phone using Bluetooth.
I normally turn off the wifi on the head unit pair the BT and then turn on the wifi again.
The drawback is that whenever bluetooth is paired, wifi does not transfer faster than about 3 Mbps.
The moment I turn wifi off, the wifi speed improves absurdly
I am evaluating the possibility of replacing the wifi + bt chip...
GeorgeM269 said:
I hear you buddy, I have a KGL as well upgraded from px3 to px5 board, and also soldered a proper wifi antenna.
In my experience, if wifi is connected (tethering phone data for example) I am unable to pair the phone using Bluetooth.
I normally turn off the wifi on the head unit pair the BT and then turn on the wifi again.
The drawback is that whenever bluetooth is paired, wifi does not transfer faster than about 3 Mbps.
The moment I turn wifi off, the wifi speed improves absurdly
I am evaluating the possibility of replacing the wifi + bt chip...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is one chip for both.. it is surface mounted.. good luck changing that..
May be an external Wi-Fi dongle of some soft. I do believe back in mtcb units they had succeeded going that road
i looked into this. the surface mounted chip is an usb interface connected device.
http://www.realtek.com/products/productsView.aspx?Langid=1&PFid=59&Level=5&Conn=4&ProdID=373
if it is a usb device one could try to desolder it and put an usb port there instead. and then connect a usb dongle with the same chip externally...
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/COMFAST-CF-WU725B-2016-Newest-Bluetooth_60474792223.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.31.2f898c12d58o8j
but honestly i doubt it will fix this.
btw. do you have this buzzing/humming sound in the spekers when using bluetooth handsfree? with the actual malaysk rom i cannot do one call i can hear nothing and peaopletelling me it sounds like a helicopter.
with HA rom it works 90%.
i haven't hooked up this unit to the car yet
zapedge said:
i looked into this. the surface mounted chip is an usb interface connected device.
http://www.realtek.com/products/productsView.aspx?Langid=1&PFid=59&Level=5&Conn=4&ProdID=373
if it is a usb device one could try to desolder it and put an usb port there instead. and then connect a usb dongle with the same chip externally...
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/COMFAST-CF-WU725B-2016-Newest-Bluetooth_60474792223.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.31.2f898c12d58o8j
but honestly i doubt it will fix this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have been brainstorming for a few days when I have had a chance to check how this chip could be replaced. While yes, it is surface mounted, it has its own circuit board which is then soldered to the main board. The module looks like this:
{
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"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
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and this is the pinout:
I have thought about ways of upgrading to a RTL8821CU instead, since the radio only takes 2.4 GHz wifi signals anyways.
http://www.realtek.com/products/productsView.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=21&PFid=60&Level=5&Conn=4&ProdID=386
Packages are similar (QFN 56 pins) so there should be modules built from these as well.
datasheet: http://en.ofeixin.com/downloadsfront.do?method=picker&flag=all&id=d0dc83f6-b71f-49ae-8469-2c8761f94551&fileId=64&isDownloadPermissions=true&memstate=/members_login.html
zapedge said:
btw. do you have this buzzing/humming sound in the spekers when using bluetooth handsfree? with the actual malaysk rom i cannot do one call i can hear nothing and peaopletelling me it sounds like a helicopter.
with HA rom it works 90%.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do hear the noise as well, running Malaysk too, it has not been as rough in my experience, mostly only noticeable when the car is stationary. I did have to change the mic because it sounded like I was in a construction zone, lots of random noises during calls.
today i removed the antenna from my device entirely.
absolutely no difference. ist seems the antenna is not connected to the wifi chip which would perfectly explain why we have this bad wifi reception....
did a check on spareparts on aliexpress. found the following
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/RTL8723BU-USB-Interface-WIFI-BT-Wireless-internet-MID-GPS-Bluetooth-WIFI-wireless-module/32466684026.html
there are some specs listed in the most detailed form i could find yet.
bullet 5 describes how an antenna for the chip should be built.
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1eGojJpXXXXXKXpXXq6xXFXXXc/116872914/HTB1eGojJpXXXXXKXpXXq6xXFXXXc.jpg?size=143645&height=751&width=512&hash=992dd655945fb5ee7d91c23ad7a3a04a
could the missing condensers be the issue?
im not that into high fequency electronics. but i think i remember condenser in line is a hipass-filter...
maybe there are some low frequencys interfering with the chip?
i removed the BT cable antenna completely and it made no difference.. i thought that might reduce the impact, but interference is the same. useless.. i am returning the stupid KGL thing.. absolutely crap
I have the same problem and decided to apply a simple solution.
The issue is produced for interference between wifi and bluetooth signals. They are in near frequencies and hardware doesn't have enougth protection.
So, I decided to turn wifi off anytime I must use bt for a phone call. All interferences completely dissapear and phone conversation is clear both sides of the line.
Hi, i found a solution for the problem. I bought a USB wifi+BT dongle and i connected to the rear usb port of the unit. By restarting the system the bluetooth and wifi starting work again.
danielsat said:
Hi, i found a solution for the problem. I bought a USB wifi+BT dongle and i connected to the rear usb port of the unit. By restarting the system the bluetooth and wifi starting work again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you give us a link of the dongle?
I thought external dongles don't work on threes machine..
Nomader0 said:
Can you give us a link of the dongle?
I thought external dongles don't work on threes machine..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Comfast wu725b is said to work with these units and will override the built in module. Just search for it on Ali or eBay. Or search for wifi bt dongle and look for it. My phone wont let me copy the link at the moment for some reason
Skickat från min ONEPLUS A3003 via Tapatalk
WarSpaz said:
Comfast wu725b is said to work with these units and will override the built in module. Just search for it on Ali or eBay. Or search for wifi bt dongle and look for it. My phone wont let me copy the link at the moment for some reason
Skickat från min ONEPLUS A3003 via Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
does that overide thw wifi module or both wifi and BT?
Nomader0 said:
does that overide thw wifi module or both wifi and BT?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As i have understood it, it will override the bt automatically and still let you use the built in wifi if you want, but you can also use the dongles wifi module if wanted
Skickat från min ONEPLUS A3003 via Tapatalk
I've had similar problems with a KGL MTCD/MTCE unit (2GB RAM, PX5, with MTCD MCU). The problem isn't the ROM, but for reference, I'm running Malaysk's latest PX5 ROM. Most notably, I experience significant break-up using bluetooth for calls. Additionally, I'm unable to pick up WiFi from inside my house out in my driveway, though various phones and laptops can do this acceptably well.
We opened the unit, found bad soldering at the WiFi/Bluetooth module, and attempted to repair it. We replaced the antenna with an SMA pigtail and longer antenna, and removed a soldered short in the board. We then powered back up with the new antenna, and found the signal no better, and in fact possibly worse than before (we may have damaged something when trying to fix the module).
We also noted that there is a small antenna printed on the bottom side of the board. There were several problems with this. First, the "internal" antenna was "connected" (more on that in a second) to RF1. RF1 on the specs for this module as published by a number of sellers on AliExpress shows RF1 as being no contact. So, we're not even sure how that's supposed to work. Second, I said "connected" before, because the soldering was bad and apparently didn't really have a connection at all. Third, being an antenna on the underside of the board inside a metal case will probably preclude it from working at all anyway.
The biggest problem is likely metal under the dash of my car, which prevents WiFi from being picked up well under there. The antenna needs to be moved out from under the dash.
I considered getting an SMA extension cable to simply move the antenna. However, at the end of the day, I've ordered a USB module, in the hopes of getting it to work. The module is listed as "USB WiFi Bluetooth Adapter, Wireless WiFi Dongle Network Adapter 150Mbps & Bluetooth Transmitter Receiver with External Antenna for Desktop/Laptop/PC, Supports Windows 7/8/8.1/10/XP/Vista/Android" and sold by "iFun4U" on Amazon.com. The unit has a larger antenna than the Comfast unit previously mentioned, and appears to use the same Realtek RTL8723BU chipset that the onboard module uses (typo'd in the listing as "Realteck TRL7823BU"). Here's a link to it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JYE5BT2
My hope is that by plugging this unit in and restarting the system, the wireless kernel module will pick up the external USB device first and register it as wlan0, making any further configuration unnecessary. If that fails, I'll look into ways to specifically assign my external device as wlan0. Worst-case, I'll open my unit back up and de-solder the USB data pins on the module.
I'll let you know how it goes.
Update -- on my KGL unit, simply plugging in the new WiFi/Bluetooth dongle caused the system to crash when booting. We ultimately had to disable the onboard Realtek chip by cutting the power trace to the board. After that, the system boots right up, and the Wifi works quite well.
wondering if this also means A2DP audio streaming is clear now too?
jpreston84 said:
Update -- on my KGL unit, simply plugging in the new WiFi/Bluetooth dongle caused the system to crash when booting. We ultimately had to disable the onboard Realtek chip by cutting the power trace to the board. After that, the system boots right up, and the Wifi works quite well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which trace disable power on chip?
Someone test antes USB hub to confirm that It works?
Thanks you
newbie_vlc said:
Which trace disable power on chip?
Someone test antes USB hub to confirm that It works?
Thanks you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please check the post earlier in this thread by GeorgeM269, which shows pictures of the pinout for the board. To be honest, if you cannot use those to determine the pinout of the board, I do not recommend you attempt to cut a trace. You could destroy your head unit, and I accept no liability for that. Do this at your own risk.
- If you have opened the unit, and are looking top-down into the unit, with the face-plate on the top side, and the back panel on the bottom side.
- From that angle, on what I'll call the left-side of the small board, you'll see 4 connections, which are GND, RF0, RF1, CLK. RF0 runs to the antenna connection on the board.
- On what I'll call the bottom edge of the board, there are 6 contacts which have have no connection.
- On what I'll call the right edge of the board, there are 4 connections which represent a USB connection to the system. From top to bottom, these are GND, Data+, Data-, PWR (3.3V). The 3.3V power connection, on the bottom right of the board, is the one we cut.
- Check your results with a meter to be sure you've fully cut through the trace.
For what it's worth, this mod is still working without issues.
I'm not sure what "antes USB hub" is. I can tell you there are no issues with using the USB hub I purchased. Personally, I ended up plugging my USB WiFi/BT dongle onto one of the ports on the rear of the head unit.
GeorgeM269 said:
I have been brainstorming for a few days when I have had a chance to check how this chip could be replaced. While yes, it is surface mounted, it has its own circuit board which is then soldered to the main board. The module looks like this:
and this is the pinout:
I have thought about ways of upgrading to a RTL8821CU instead, since the radio only takes 2.4 GHz wifi signals anyways.
http://www.realtek.com/products/productsView.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=21&PFid=60&Level=5&Conn=4&ProdID=386
Packages are similar (QFN 56 pins) so there should be modules built from these as well.
datasheet: http://en.ofeixin.com/downloadsfront.do?method=picker&flag=all&id=d0dc83f6-b71f-49ae-8469-2c8761f94551&fileId=64&isDownloadPermissions=true&memstate=/members_login.html
I do hear the noise as well, running Malaysk too, it has not been as rough in my experience, mostly only noticeable when the car is stationary. I did have to change the mic because it sounded like I was in a construction zone, lots of random noises during calls.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ordered this USB stick off eBay Link. It has the RTL8821CU chipset with Bluetooth 4.2, wifi ac standard, and 5ghz Frequency. The radio does pick it up as a USB device but it doesn't have a driver built into the kernel. I'm going to see if I can build a kernel module and get it to load. Just a little hesitant to try because if it causes the kernel to crash i'll have to lose my settings/info to restore it as I don't have ADB set up yet.
I am having this issue with the Third Party Type C Headphone
I have bought 2 different brands of Headphone and they are not working at all in my Galaxy Note 10+
does anyone have the same issue as me?
It pissed me, because Samsung ditch the headphone Jack and now they have restricted third party accessories
what a petty move..... I'm seriously pissed because of this issue
can someone, anybody, help me with this issue?
k31k0ku said:
I am having this issue with the Third Party Type C Headphone
I have bought 2 different brands of Headphone and they are not working in my Galaxy Note 10+
does anyone have the same issue as me?
It pissed me, because Samsung ditch the headphone Jack and now they have restricted third party accessories
what a petty move..... I'm seriously pissed because of this issue
can someone, anybody, help me with this issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure -
The signal used for traditional speakers (including tiny ones in earbuds) use an analog electrical signal which as it fluctuates through a coil of wires, causes a magnet in the middle of that coil to move back and forth. A flat funnel-shaped cone attached to that magnet also moves and forth and the way it moves the air creates the sound. This analog signal (which looks like a wave) is very inefficient for transmitting or storage in electronics. Therefore information (as well as sound) is handled as a digital (meaning on/off only rather than a fluctuating (analog) signal).
So somewhere in between the sound (analog) and the source of it (digital) is always a very simple electrical circuit called a DAC (Digital to Analog Converter).
The earbuds that come with the phone in this case accept a digital signal at the connection point and actually already include a DAC somewhere before the tiny speakers that play into your ears. Essentially without realizing it, your expectation was that the DAC was already in the phone circuitry somewhere before it reaches the jack into which you are plugging your earbuds (most earbuds do not have a DAC and the two you tried do not either).
This situation annoyed me too, I am one of those folks that wanted to keep the 3.5mm headphone jack.
However, these DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) circuits are very tiny - and cheap too!
So, I was looking for an adapter/splitter that would let you plug in both a 3.5mm headphone jack AND a USB Type C cable from a charger. I also bought an in-line meter which allows you to measure the power being fed into the phone to make sure any third-party charging related accessories are providing the correct power to the phone for fast charging. I did not know these even existed until recently. You really have to have it because the new high speed and high power charging standard - which is further complicated because Samsung adds a slight twist of their own to the standard - requires a special kind of conversation between the charger and the phone being charged. Most older (even high quality) cables won't work properly with it, and you phone will charge with this - but only MUCH more slowly! I will leave a link to the meter for you below. I bought two different dongles/splitters but returned them because the power they supplied to the phone was lame to say the least. Then, I stopped looking - because Samsung posted a warning that they may damage the phone or earphones with high-powered chargers going through such dongles. That announcement was on the Samsung Members app which everyone should install from the Galaxy Store. See the attached pictures of the warning.
There is an adapter (USB Type C to 3.5mm Stereo) offered by Samsung but when I looked they only had white. I bought this instead in black - very heavy duty braided cable - and it works perfectly. Therefore - this adapter includes a DAC - which is compatible:
USB-C to 3.5mm Headphone Jack Adapter, USB Type-C to 3.5mm Adapter Nylon Cable [DAC Hi-Res] Compatible with iPad Pro New 2018,Pixle 2/XL/3,HTC,Samsung S8/S9/Note 8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMY3V9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6I7EDb2JHJA9J
Here is the meter you need (I will include some photos of the meter as well because for a small amount of money it really is an amazing device!):
MakerHawk USB Power Meter, TC66 USB Tester Type C USB Voltage Meter and Current Tester, 0.96 Inch IPS Color LCD Display Power Tester Multimeter PD Ammeter Voltmeter QC 2.0 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NXRPNPR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gY7EDbMG2NHRX
Man, I am such a geek... LOL! I hope this helps!
P.S. - if you do want to just buy other earbuds without any adapter needed - just be sure they include a DAC and you should be good to go!View attachment 4819058View attachment 4819059
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View attachment 4819072View attachment 4819075View attachment 4819076
Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk
to add to that, I recommend getting the official C to 3.5mm adapter from Samsung.Major manufacturer most likely has better DAC and circuity than one from Amazon.
this one https://www.samsung.com/us/mobile/m.../usb-c-headphone-jack-adapter-ee-uc10juwegus/
jass65 said:
to add to that, I recommend getting the official C to 3.5mm adapter from Samsung.Major manufacturer most likely has better DAC and circuity than one from Amazon.
this one https://www.samsung.com/us/mobile/m.../usb-c-headphone-jack-adapter-ee-uc10juwegus/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes but they only had them in white and the one I ordered (link above) also works well...
Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk
KruseLudsMobile said:
Sure -
The signal used for traditional speakers (including tiny ones in earbuds) use an analog electrical signal which as it fluctuates through a coil of wires, causes a magnet in the middle of that coil to move back and forth. A flat funnel-shaped cone attached to that magnet also moves and forth and the way it moves the air creates the sound. This analog signal (which looks like a wave) is very inefficient for transmitting or storage in electronics. Therefore information (as well as sound) is handled as a digital (meaning on/off only rather than a fluctuating (analog) signal).
So somewhere in between the sound (analog) and the source of it (digital) is always a very simple electrical circuit called a DAC (Digital to Analog Converter).
The earbuds that come with the phone in this case accept a digital signal at the connection point and actually already include a DAC somewhere before the tiny speakers that play into your ears. Essentially without realizing it, your expectation was that the DAC was already in the phone circuitry somewhere before it reaches the jack into which you are plugging your earbuds (most earbuds do not have a DAC and the two you tried do not either).
This situation annoyed me too, I am one of those folks that wanted to keep the 3.5mm headphone jack.
However, these DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) circuits are very tiny - and cheap too!
So, I was looking for an adapter/splitter that would let you plug in both a 3.5mm headphone jack AND a USB Type C cable from a charger. I also bought an in-line meter which allows you to measure the power being fed into the phone to make sure any third-party charging related accessories are providing the correct power to the phone for fast charging. I did not know these even existed until recently. You really have to have it because the new high speed and high power charging standard - which is further complicated because Samsung adds a slight twist of their own to the standard - requires a special kind of conversation between the charger and the phone being charged. Most older (even high quality) cables won't work properly with it, and you phone will charge with this - but only MUCH more slowly! I will leave a link to the meter for you below. I bought two different dongles/splitters but returned them because the power they supplied to the phone was lame to say the least. Then, I stopped looking - because Samsung posted a warning that they may damage the phone or earphones with high-powered chargers going through such dongles. That announcement was on the Samsung Members app which everyone should install from the Galaxy Store. See the attached pictures of the warning.
There is an adapter (USB Type C to 3.5mm Stereo) offered by Samsung but when I looked they only had white. I bought this instead in black - very heavy duty braided cable - and it works perfectly. Therefore - this adapter includes a DAC - which is compatible:
USB-C to 3.5mm Headphone Jack Adapter, USB Type-C to 3.5mm Adapter Nylon Cable [DAC Hi-Res] Compatible with iPad Pro New 2018,Pixle 2/XL/3,HTC,Samsung S8/S9/Note 8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMY3V9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6I7EDb2JHJA9J
Here is the meter you need (I will include some photos of the meter as well because for a small amount of money it really is an amazing device!):
MakerHawk USB Power Meter, TC66 USB Tester Type C USB Voltage Meter and Current Tester, 0.96 Inch IPS Color LCD Display Power Tester Multimeter PD Ammeter Voltmeter QC 2.0 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NXRPNPR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gY7EDbMG2NHRX
Man, I am such a geek... LOL! I hope this helps!
P.S. - if you do want to just buy other earbuds without any adapter needed - just be sure they include a DAC and you should be good to go!View attachment 4819058View attachment 4819059View attachment 4819068View attachment 4819072View attachment 4819075View attachment 4819076
Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your detailed explanation. It helped me after 3 years. I just bought a new Note 10 plus.
Strange, I have a Note 10+ and I got some skullcandy headphones that are usb c and they work perfect.
Hi,
This is a complete rewrite of post #1 as I don't want others to do the stupid things I have done.
When you connect a a reverse camera to your uis7862 or uis8581a unit and you have a CANbus, you simply use the connections as displayed below in the image in post #2 => + wire to the CAM 12V and the RCA plug to the yellow CAM VIN.
Next to that: Have a good look at the last image of post #19 of @Matt Devo where he explains very clearly how it should be done.
And finally: look at post #25 to see what my stupid mistake was.
If you have canbus then you should connect this harness to your unit and marked wire is power wire. I'm not sure if you are talking about this.
Do your unit goes into reverse mode (screen with lines and parking sensor) but without image from camera or doesn't go into this screen at all?
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marjanoos said:
If you have canbus then you should connect this harness to your unit and marked wire is power wire. I'm not sure if you are talking about this.
Do your unit goes into reverse mode (screen with lines and parking sensor) but without image from camera or doesn't go into this screen at all?
View attachment 5914295
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I have that harness indeed, and I forgot to mention that I have also connected my +-wire to that 12V CAM wire.
That doesn't work either.
When I set my car in reverse and switch on the parking lines, they are displayed. If I turn my steering wheel they even nicely curve further or less. I simply do not have an image.
Anyway: I just saw a video where the guy says that you should not connect GND in the back to the chassis, but leave it disconnected. I didn't try that yet, but I will try that in a few hours as well.
marjanoos said:
If you have canbus then you should connect this harness to your unit and marked wire is power wire. I'm not sure if you are talking about this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just tested it. When I put the car in reverse, there is no 12V on the CAM 12V wire no. 2 in the picture. There is never 12V on that wire.
However, there is ~13V on the trigger wire when setting the car in reverse.
Connecting the GND wire to GND or not, doesn't make a difference either. I also checked the cables. I get low resistance over the connection, which seems (to me) that the cables are correct.
surfer63 said:
Anyway: I just saw a video where the guy says that you should not connect GND in the back to the chassis, but leave it disconnected. I didn't try that yet, but I will try that in a few hours as well.
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I have cvbs camera and I have GND connected to the chasis and it works. Also when I had MTCD device before I had GND just isolated and it also worked.
marjanoos said:
I have cvbs camera and I have GND connected to the chasis and it works. Also when I had MTCD device before I had GND just isolated and it also worked.
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I am getting a little desperate. I almost get the idea that the camera itself is not working.
surfer63 said:
I just tested it. When I put the car in reverse, there is no 12V on the CAM 12V wire no. 2 in the picture. There is never 12V on that wire.
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There are settings regarding powering the back camera. I don’t remember where exactly right now.
If that won’t work then your canbox doesn’t support reverse camera (very strange though) or you have wrong canbox settings.
surfer63 said:
I am getting a little desperate. I almost get the idea that the camera itself is not working.
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Well you could try to deliver 12v from another source to check that. For example from fuse box etc or reverse light.
marjanoos said:
Well you could try to deliver 12v from another source to check that. For example from fuse box etc or reverse light.
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Yes, but the trigger wire does deliver 12V.
marjanoos said:
There are settings regarding powering the back camera. I don’t remember where exactly right now.
If that won’t work then your canbox doesn’t support reverse camera (very strange though) or you have wrong canbox settings.
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Do you mean "Settings -> Factory -> Reverse power supply"?
That is to change ACC/Cont in case your car harness/CANbus is wired incorrectly (or the unit, whichever you blame for it).
But to make sure, I just tested it.
Still no 12V on that 12V CAM wire. Not normally, not in reverse, not after rebooting and testing again.
surfer63 said:
Yes, but the trigger wire does deliver 12V.
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I’m not an electrician but if that’s digital signal then it may not be a reliable source of power.
surfer63 said:
Do you mean "Settings -> Factory -> Reverse power supply"?
That is to change ACC/Cont in case your car harness/CANbus is wired incorrectly (or the unit, whichever you blame for it).
But to make sure, I just tested it.
Still no 12V on that 12V CAM wire. Not normally, not in reverse, not after rebooting and testing again.
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Yes I meant this setting. It’s kind of strange that you don’t have 12v on that wire.
You could also try to use multimeter to assure if cable supplied with camera isn’t damaged.
surfer63 said:
I also checked the cables. I get low resistance over the connection, which seems (to me) that the cables are correct.
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marjanoos said:
I’m not an electrician but if that’s digital signal then it may not be a reliable source of power.
Yes I meant this setting. It’s kind of strange that you don’t have 12v on that wire.
You could also try to use multimeter to assure if cable supplied with camera isn’t damaged.
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I said it was a "digital" signal as I meant that it is 0V or 12V, so it is behaving "binary".
However, there are 3 videos on Youtube who do exactly as I described in post #1 using that trigger wire, and they do have a working camera.
Using that backlight power supply is when you don't have a CANbus. Also Joying explains that in one of their videos to use (what they call) the "Back" wire on the unit, and not the back light power supply. Edit: But that might also be the same CAM 12V wire that you mention.
And liked quoting myself above: I already checked the cable. I will get a transformer and simply put 12V on the cable and see what it does. Instead of relying on the head unit.
surfer63 said:
Hi,
I (finally) decided to buy a reverse camera for my Mekede as I lately have neck issues (one gets older).
(I did read the "Teyes CC3 reverse camera help!" thread, which I assume is 95% equal, but still slightly different, so I created a new thread for Mekede/NaviFly)
Car: Skoda Octavia 2015
Unit: Mekede FYT 500S (uis7862)
It is this camera, the 4th in the row. The 170 degrees 1280x720.
As I have a CANbus, I did NOT connect to the reverse light 12V in the back of the car, but I connected my power(+) to the 3rd trigger wire, as supposed for a CANbus. (And just to be sure I watched some youtube videos about "head unit reverse camera canbus")
View attachment 5914121
This trigger wire is a "digital" wire. When not in reverse gear it is 0V. When putting the gear in reverse it sets 12V on the wire. I measured this with a multimeter and it sets indeed 12V (actually slightly more) on the trigger wire.
So on unit side I connect the CAM plug on the CAM IN plug (not the yellow RCA plug) and the red wire to the pink (on Mekede units) trigger wire.
And on the other side, in the back of my car, I connect the red +-wire of the camera to the red +-wire of the extension cable and the ground wire to the chassis.
View attachment 5914243
As I have a 720p AHD camera, I set the "format" in Settings -> Factory -> HD Reversing format" to AHD and the setting to ON. As this didn't work I already tried the other setting, which (of course) didn't work either. And by now I rebooted at least 25 times
As I am a "technical software guy" and not a "hardware guy", I hope that someone can tell me what I am doing wrong.
Edit: I added my camera type up in the post.
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I'll just add that i had similar experience and for my issue it came down to my failed attempt to use those wire splicing attachments........well after pulling my hair out i checked and found out they weren't making the electrical connection.......scraped those and soldered the wire contacts instead...... that was the fix for me.
P.s (not using canbus, but reverse light power and ground)
louforgiveno said:
I'll just add that i had similar experience and for my issue it came down to my failed attempt to use those wire splicing attachments........well after pulling my hair out i checked and found out they weren't making the electrical connection.......scraped those and soldered the wire contacts instead...... that was the fix for me.
P.s (not using canbus, but reverse light power and ground)
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If you solder cables in your car you have to make sure you sealed the connection properly. I used once standard isolating sleeve (without any sealing glue) and the connection rotten because of the moisture.
louforgiveno said:
P.s (not using canbus, but reverse light power and ground)
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That is one of the reasons I waited so long for buying a camera. My car is a "liftback" model where the camera is in the trunk lid. The tail lights, incl. the reverse light, is in the body of the car. I would have needed another 3 meters of cable only to connect the camera power to the back light power, or split it somewhere in the body in the big cable bundle , which would also require about 2 meters of extra cable and something I really did not want to do.
As I also miss a lot of "tech talk", I only recently learned that I do not need the backlight power at all, but can use the 12V from the unit.
However, so far not working.
I did check with my multimeter and do measure 12V on the spliced/connected wires. I do have 12V and correct cables (measured the resistance).
marjanoos said:
If you solder cables in your car you have to make sure you sealed the connection properly. I used once standard isolating sleeve (without any sealing glue) and the connection rotten because of the moisture.
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Thanks!
Reminded me i need to hit those points with liquid electrical tape !
Your camera is connected to CAM VIN (Shown in reply #2 as image 4)?
Have you tried cutting the white cable loop on your camera that switches between ahd/cvbs?
I have an identical unit to you and my oem camera connected and it "just works" (with both ahd setting enabled and disabled).
j0hn83 said:
1. Your camera is connected to CAM VIN (Shown in reply #2 as image 4)?
2. Have you tried cutting the white cable loop on your camera that switches between ahd/cvbs?
3. I have an identical unit to you and my oem camera connected and it "just works" (with both ahd setting enabled and disabled).
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1. Yes, it is connected to the CAM VIN, although on my cable it says correctly CAM IN.
2. Yes, I did cut the white loop wire (and the green loop wire), and temporarily reconnected the white loop wire (and green loop wire) again to test. But with or without cut white loop wire: no image.
3. You lucky guy
if your canbus box is correctly decoding the reverse msg and signaling the HU to switch to the reverse camera input, then the canbus part is working properly, and the issue is camera power.
On the M500, the HU provides +12v on pin F7 when switching to the reverse camera input via CAN trigger. You should *NOT* connect the camera power directly to the CAN reverse trigger (pin G5 on the main plug). F7 connects to the power lead on the RCA wire. The other end of the power lead connects to the red camera + wire. The black/ground wire does not need to be connected; these cameras use the same ground for the video shield so the RCA plug is providing ground already.
CAM +12v is red wire here:
How I wire up the units I sell:
Thanks for your extensive answer (and as soon as I have a working situation I will make photos like that as well. Very helpful)
The 3rd image with the plug is showing the CAM IN RCA plug (the black wire) and the red CAM 12V wire.
The problem in my case is that that red CAM 12V wire never gets 12V, whereas the the trigger wire (G5 in your first image) does get 12V when I put my gear in reverse..
How do I get 12V on that red 12V wire?
Like I asked in post #10: "Do you mean "Settings -> Factory -> Reverse power supply"?"
Do I need to set that to ON?
I tried that but still no 12V. Do I need to do something else? I rebooted the unit but I did not give it a reset (RST).