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Broke my standard headset, what to buy?

Hey guys I've been searching around and haven't been able to find a lot of info.
I broke the headset that comes with the Desire. Now I want to buy a new headset that's cabled and have the same three buttons as the standard one.
Instead of just buying the stock one again, I hope to find something wtih better sound, does anyone know where to find that?
Regards!

Broke how? Do the controls still work?

accidentially pulled one of the earbuds of, so that I now only have one earbud.

If the controls still work you could solder a standard earphone plug insted of the earbuds, so you could connect any other headphones to it. I'm actually thinking of doing this so I can use the controls both with the headphone that in my car (line in). If you can wait I will do this to mine next week, so I could tell you how it goes.

balerio said:
If the controls still work you could solder a standard earphone plug insted of the earbuds, so you could connect any other headphones to it. I'm actually thinking of doing this so I can use the controls both with the headphone that in my car (line in). If you can wait I will do this to mine next week, so I could tell you how it goes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do a google search for "diy-merge-original-headset-with-the-headphones-of-your-choice" to find a post on the modaco forums (I can't post the link). This should give you some tips - not great photos, but you can see the general idea. If you go this route it would be great if you could take some photos, especially on how the controls come apart.
Good luck! AD

not really good at solding so I'll rather buy new ones and further the cord out from the unit with the controls, so I don't think it's really difficult for me to do it.

I'm using a sony bluetooth headset with controls (MW600)
Volume sensor is fiddly (I rarely change vol so I dont mind) and it's nice and loud (louder than the stock headset). It pairs beautifully (real quick and easy) and the sound quality is good, I feel it could be slightly better though..
Receiving calls works as you would want, 1 press answer, mic works great, 1 press hang-up and autoswitch back to media.
Over all I'm happy with it

I'm starting to think the stock headset is a very bad design.
The control section with the buttons and mic should have tapered ends where the wires come out so it can't get caught on anything.
I have got mine caught on stuff twice, the second time the wire ripped the pad off the PCB which is no longer serviceable.
I've bought a new headset off ebay, this time Im going to get some black epoxy resin and make a tapered end so it cant get stuck on things.

AlienDonkey said:
Do a google search for "diy-merge-original-headset-with-the-headphones-of-your-choice" to find a post on the modaco forums (I can't post the link). This should give you some tips - not great photos, but you can see the general idea. If you go this route it would be great if you could take some photos, especially on how the controls come apart.
Good luck! AD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Correct! That is where I got the idea. But insted of soldering the new headphones to the pcb of the controls I was thinking of cutting the wires of the earbuds and soldering a female connector instead. So I would not need to open the controls/cut my headphones jack and I could use any kind of headphones since swapping would be very easy. Also I would have external controls in my car using the line in.
Do you guys want / need pictures (even though it is only a simple connector)?

Joopvan, sent you a pm

multi basys car kit from Carcomm

Hi All,
just got the second part of this car kit turn up today from totalpda
The kit does not come with a window mount so you will have to source one, but the fixings do have the standard "AMPS" pattern 4 hole screw mounting, so pretty much anything on the 'bay will "do"
There are 2 cables - one for 12/24v DC, terminated in two open wires , and an antenna cable with the usual ..er...FME(?) trailing plug attached to it . The base plate also comes with an in-line fuse holder to make things safer, but you have to provide your own scotch-loks or terminal strip ! theres no provision for connection to an external microphone or line in of the car stereo (Ive been *****ing to carcomm since the HTC TYTN for the latter) However,I have a bluetooh enabled stereo now so this no longer bothers me
The antenna coupler is (I assume) capacitively connected (via an air gap) to the radio antenna but produced a very useful 5dBm CPICH power improvement when wired up to a tri-band band glass mount antenna (verified in the Desires extended engineering hidden menu)
flaws? well just one major goof!
A few times I have used the rear facing camera on my phones, suitably cradled, to capture video of bad driving or other crimes committed in front of me .
no chance of doing that now! the antenna booster section obscures it totally!!
overall though - rather good - although I would have liked to have seen composite video out so i can feed the sat nav output into my flip up TV screen like I "jury rigged" my old htc raphael
hope that helps someone out there - any questions just ask and I will try to answer them
regards
Rob
--
MW0CQU

Photos would be good, thanks

Photos would be good, thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
a fair point, well made ;-)
ok lts see if this will work:
First pic - The empty cradle straight on
the two wires are DC power and antenna cable as described above
Second pic - A side view. odd angles due to door pillar and me being too lazy to unstick the mount. The antenna bulge is part of the "front" plate the back piece is thin and rectangular in section. the whole concept of the multi-basys is to have interchangable front pieces as you change phones over time.
Third pic - Phone fitted , showing a Map
Fourth pic - showing the flaw in that you can put the unit horizontal but you cant use it to video things happening in front of you as the antenna bulge obscures 50% of the view of the camera
hope that helps
Cheers
Rob
--
MW0CQU

How to enable HDMI out, if we could just find a freak'n connector

I found an app in /system/bin/ that lets you control your displays :-D
Now we just need to figure out the pin-out of the connector If somebody can find me a plug that fit the docking port correctly I could probably figure out the pinout for us and post instructions.
Code:
# nvdmmultidisplay
*******************************************************
dmmultidisplay usage:
dmmultidisplay [disp_option] [case_option] <activity_option>
<disp_option> can be one of the following (default is '--lcd'):
--off: Turn off all displays
--lcd: Test LCD Display
--hdmi: Test HDMI with no display on LCD
--crt: Test CRT Display with no display on LCD
--tvout: Test TV-Out Display with no display on LCD
--lcd_hdmi OR --lcd_crt OR --lcd_tvout: Test for dual display at the same time
<case_option> can be one of the following (default is '--case1'):
--case1: Demonstrate case #1
--case2: Demonstrate case #2
<activity_option> can be one of the following:
--ui: Show only UI without playing video
--play: Play only video without displaying UI
--uiplay: Show UI together with playing video
--file <filename>: Video file to be played (including path)
--query_displays: Query some info about all displays
--query_active: Query more info about active displays
Command-line examples:
Turn on LCD and HDMI displays and play default video; use case 1:
dmmultidisplay --lcd_hdmi --play
Turn on LCD and HDMI displays and play default video and show UI; use case 2:
dmmultidisplay --lcd_hdmi --case2 --uiplay

KinkyMunkey said:
I found an app in /system/bin/ that lets you control your displays :-D
Now we just need to figure out the pin-out of the connector If somebody can find me a plug that fit the docking port correctly I could probably figure out the pinout for us and post instructions.
Code:
# nvdmmultidisplay
*******************************************************
dmmultidisplay usage:
dmmultidisplay [disp_option] [case_option] <activity_option>
<disp_option> can be one of the following (default is '--lcd'):
--off: Turn off all displays
--lcd: Test LCD Display
--hdmi: Test HDMI with no display on LCD
--crt: Test CRT Display with no display on LCD
--tvout: Test TV-Out Display with no display on LCD
--lcd_hdmi OR --lcd_crt OR --lcd_tvout: Test for dual display at the same time
<case_option> can be one of the following (default is '--case1'):
--case1: Demonstrate case #1
--case2: Demonstrate case #2
<activity_option> can be one of the following:
--ui: Show only UI without playing video
--play: Play only video without displaying UI
--uiplay: Show UI together with playing video
--file <filename>: Video file to be played (including path)
--query_displays: Query some info about all displays
--query_active: Query more info about active displays
Command-line examples:
Turn on LCD and HDMI displays and play default video; use case 1:
dmmultidisplay --lcd_hdmi --play
Turn on LCD and HDMI displays and play default video and show UI; use case 2:
dmmultidisplay --lcd_hdmi --case2 --uiplay
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does anyone have a SandDisk Sansa device with the connector? I know you can buy breakouts of that connector (like the ipad) from Sparkfun. Maybe that one fits. It is similar to the ipad 30 pin connector

I do. The pins fit perfectly, but it's connector goes to USB. Not sure where to go from here

sledgie said:
I do. The pins fit perfectly, but it's connector goes to USB. Not sure where to go from here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow.. Ok then. I am going to order this. It is a sansa breakout plug that allows you to solder to the board. Once we get it working, we can make a cable with the plug they sell also.
http://www.kineteka.com/sansabreakout.aspx
... and see if we can figure out the pin outs!
Thanks for the update.

YOU ROCK! great find... I just ordered one too....
Does anybody know if it's safe to hook the HDMI directly into the connector? I am worried that the dock might have extra power filtering circuitry or protection we could be bypassing by hooking directly into it. (i have only heard plans for a dock, personally i would rather have an HDMI adapter, it would be AMAZING for presentations, opening up a google docs slideshows work great on this thing already)

Did you try plugging the Sansa USB cable in?

no, i just checked to see if it connected into the port. for gits and shiggles!
Yes, i did plug the USB into my computer. Nothing recognized while G Tab was running 2.04. When i reboot into CWM, i went into mounts and storage, mounted /sdcard. Computer didn't recognize. pulled USB from computer - viewsonic reset. Mounted storage in USB mode - same happened. Nothing showing up on the computer.

I know its not cost effective but wondering if something like this would do anything with the sansa usb connector attached?
http://sewelldirect.com/Sewell-HD-Deck-USB-to-HDMI.asp

KinkyMunkey said:
YOU ROCK! great find... I just ordered one too....
Does anybody know if it's safe to hook the HDMI directly into the connector? I am worried that the dock might have extra power filtering circuitry or protection we could be bypassing by hooking directly into it. (i have only heard plans for a dock, personally i would rather have an HDMI adapter, it would be AMAZING for presentations, opening up a google docs slideshows work great on this thing already)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine is on its way. Tried to find a similar breakout for HDMI, but not found yet. I guess I will just cut the end off a cheap HDMI cable and wire it to the breakout. When we get it right, I will wire it to the regular plug. I bought one of those too.
Now, who is going to figure out the pinouts? I dont have a scope to read signals like these.. just a good multi meter

insight3fl said:
Mine is on its way. Tried to find a similar breakout for HDMI, but not found yet. I guess I will just cut the end off a cheap usb and wire it to the breakout. When we get it right, I will wire it to the regular plug. I bought one of those too.
Now, who is going to figure out the pinouts? I dont have an scope to read signals like these.. just a good muti meter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello guys, I am Mike from Kineteka. We noticed traffic coming from XDA and decided to investigate. We are very interested in your discovery and would like to work with you on developing an HDMI adapter.
Regards,
Mike
Kineteka Systems

Kineteka said:
Hello guys, I am Mike from Kineteka. We noticed traffic coming from XDA and decided to investigate. We are very interested in your discovery and would like to work with you on developing an HDMI adapter.
Regards,
Mike
Kineteka Systems
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Mike! Welcome. We need help! no one has an hdmi cable for the viewsonic yet. As you see, someone believes the sansa cable fits our viewsonic dock... I and others have ordered on that chance. But we do not have the pinout on the dock connector...and as I mentioned, we need a pigtail HDMI cable to connect to the sansa breakout. Can you send me a private message and we can work on this.
thanks
Dennis

Ok... got my sansa connector breakout board/connector and a spare connetor. but, I have not a clue what to do next! The breakout board connector comes with the other parts to put around it such as the locking pins and plastic cover, but there is no way that fits over the breakout pc board, it is slotted for a cable like the parts on the regular cable connnetor I got. So I assume it does not work so I am clueless why it is included. That being said, there is very little contact with the connetor and the port on the tablet (absent the locking pins to hold it in). Now the big question is while I have it "sitting in there" (connected) how do we begin to test any signals coming out of the port??

Kinkymonkey,
Did you get your plug yet and have you had any luck with the pin out?
Mike from Kineteka, can you lend any insight on the pinout for us?
Thanks

So,, What can i supply about your development??
I have received your PM. and what information need i supply?

xjarl said:
I have received your PM. and what information need i supply?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We need the schematic for the connector
Thx

I just got it, but it won't fit the plug, it looks like the metal tabs under the connector are just a little bit closer together then slots on the plug - it fits in sideways but it won't go in straight because of those metal tabs :-( Did it actually fit in yours? (i have one of the first 1000....)
Ya- that black cover in the bag is wierd.. did you notice the big holes in the side too- i think those little tiny plastic clips are meant to cover them- man would that be a pain to put together. it must have come from whatever kit the sansa connector came from, They just bought a bunch of cheap connectors and soldered on the breakout board.
On a plus note, the box also contained a cool rubber ducky robot, a christmas card, and a multipage color sales guide for the archos tablet line (LOL! ironic) so it wasn't a total loss... just a really expensive rubber ducky...

oh, btw wrap a piece of electical tape around the pins coming out the back of the connector (instead of the black plastic cover), that way you don't have to worry about touching them when you are plugging in it (sending static electricity from your fingers into the HDMI connector would probably be a bad thing)
Wrap it from the thick part of the connector back down the pc board coming out the back.
I did that so i could get a better grip - but it still won't fit

KinkyMunkey said:
I just got it, but it won't fit the plug, it looks like the metal tabs under the connector are just a little bit closer together then slots on the plug - it fits in sideways but it won't go in straight because of those metal tabs :-( Did it actually fit in yours? (i have one of the first 1000....)
Ya- that black cover in the bag is wierd.. did you notice the big holes in the side too- i think those little tiny plastic clips are meant to cover them- man would that be a pain to put together. it must have come from whatever kit the sansa connector came from, They just bought a bunch of cheap connectors and soldered on the breakout board.
On a plus note, the box also contained a cool rubber ducky robot, a christmas card, and a multipage color sales guide for the archos tablet line (LOL! ironic) so it wasn't a total loss... just a really expensive rubber ducky...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did not get any of those trinkets......but my plug engages but just not very deep. I wa assuming the metal hook piece ( when it would be assembled with the cover and the black plastic " buttons" for squeezing the pins) would hold it in. But the other poster said his plug fit.....so i dont know.
I wish Mike from the vendor would chime in again.

a bit confused
XDA is no longer worth my time.

I am briefly reserecting this old thread as I got my dock today. I was all set to pull it apart, cut the end off an HDMI cable and try and trace the pinout with my Sensa Breakout plugs I bought from Kinetica. Well, after seeing the connector on the dock, and knowing the Kinetica plug did not fit and I was going to have to modify and force it on someway, it is not even close to looking like the plug on the dock. I think the poster who plugged his Sansa cable in must have forced it or something or it is completely different from the cable that Kinetica sold us as a Sensa plug. It looks so much bigger in width and it the throat is much narrower ( I know the dock plug is made for the tablet to just "sit" on it and not stay pugged in, but even though it does not have the little clips on the sides that hold this type of plug engaged, the SAnsa cable is just not going to work. So, I will not be pulling the dock apart at this time until someone can spec the dock connector and find us one that is an exact fit.
I wasted $20 bucks on those two plugs unfortunately along with a few others here.

[Q] Headphone Jack is incredibly sensitive to movement, just mine?

So I use the FM tuner... a lot. Like 5 days a week 4 - 7 hrs a day and then some on the weekends whenever I'm working in the garage or out hiking around. As such I find it is incredibly hard to find headphones that work with our phone. Sure any set of 3.5mm jacks will work but it doesn't take much to disconnect the FM Tuner and depending on what FM Tuner app you're using really changes what results of that jostling. A lot of headphones, especially the straight jack style are nearly incompatible. Just walking is enough to create the disconnect. It's almost like I can't get the plug in all the way but the thing is bottomed out when I look at it. Fixing it usually involves a short unplug and reinsert then waiting for the FM Tuner app to reactivate. However depending on the headphones being used this could work for 5min or 5s (and lately it seems to be the latter more and more often). I do have much greater success when using 90 degree plugs, although lately even with that I've been using a rubber band to sure that the plug isn't being tugged and disconnecting.
So I'm wondering if anyone else has had similar issues, I kind of wonder if maybe I got some lint in there or something but I use an otterbox with the nice silicon plugs that covers the jack up when not in use so that seems like a stretch.
Dogan
I did search!

I meant reply but oops you get a thanks! Bonus!
I use an FM tuner (both from Sense ROMs and CM7) and have not had the issues you've described. I don't use it nearly as frequently as yourself though as it sounds progressive it's likely not a manufacturer defect. I'd vote something wrong with the jack whether blockage or HW wearing out.
Try cleaning it.
Sent from my PG06100 using xda app-developers app

Sonkway said:
I meant reply but oops you get a thanks! Bonus!
I use an FM tuner (both from Sense ROMs and CM7) and have not had the issues you've described. I don't use it nearly as frequently as yourself though as it sounds progressive it's likely not a manufacturer defect. I'd vote something wrong with the jack whether blockage or HW wearing out.
Try cleaning it.
Sent from my PG06100 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use a q-tip and rubbing alcohol of you are gonna clean it. I've never had those issues either. I use mine every day, mine is a little sensitive, a small tug will stop the music but not near as bad as you are experiencing.

I had this same issue on a friends Shift. After a lot of trial and error, we figured out that it was the Tip of the Headphone Jack. It was too long in some cases. So we started to compare a bunch of them. What we found was really weird, but interesting. It seems there is no continuity between Headphone Manufacturers as to how long the Tip of the Jack is. Some were as much as an 1/8" longer. Which is an issue because the jack never seats. So it will pop out at odd times. Basically what we did to solve the issue in his case was find one that worked, and seated well in the socket. Then we measured it, and filed down one of the ones that didn't work correctly. As soon as we did that it was all good. But beware some of the cheaper ones also distorted the sound after we did that. In a few cases we were able to solve that by smoothing the end with progressively finer sand paper. But it was a lot of work. Much easier to just buy the correct size. Just wanted to share a bit of info. Hope that helps .

I have had a problem like this in the past too. For me it was the brand of headphone jack that I was using. I found that some plugs were not going in far enough and contact was not being maintained. Also, make sure your case, if you have one on, is not preventing the plug from inserting all the way.

Prboy is right on. I have also had to file down some of my headphones. Careful not to get em too short though if you do.

Still haven't gotten around to trying any of these suggestions. Working for a brown clad shipping company gets kinda hectic in December.
Dogan
People and der boxes.

[Q] rewiring cam

This is probably a stupid question but I figured I'd throw it out there.
I have installed a Tab 2 into the dash of my car. It is integrated into the dashboard now and wired up to the stereo. I would like to have a dash cam. It would be nice to be able to use the cam already in the Tab 2, since it's just sitting there. But this would require me to remove the cam from the board and make it external. I've watched the disassembly videos and I see that the camera appears to be wired through a printed circuit. So I'm assuming it would be nearly impossible to remove this cam and make a longer lead for it so that I can mount it external to the Tab itself? If anyone knows of any easy way to do this, let me know. I'd like to avoid the expense of buying a dash cam. Also, I don't think I have the space available to plug one into the Tab.

Well, on the P3xxx the _backside_ camera is actually plugged into the motherboard (on the bottom side), though if you want to turn that camera into a "dashcam" that may require some skills on your behalf.
You would need to extend the flat-flex cable from the camera ... either by using a matching socket and plug (possibly hard to find, and you also need to solder leads/wires to the pins that are insanely close to each other) or by soldering leads/wires to the pins of the existing socket/plug or in place of the existing socket/plug (requires way above-average soldering skills as you need a low-temp iron and solder that melts at low temps so you don't burn the plastic of the flat flex). If your skills, and equipment, don't stand up to the task of soldering on a flat-flex (remember, the pins, meaning the pitch between them, are insanely close to each other) you're already out of luck.
However, even if you manage to extend the connection between the PCB and the camera and it does work, the question is: "How long can the "cable" be before the signal doesn't get through anymore". That's more like "trial-and-error" than "something that can be estimated".
Let us assume you manage to extend the interface long enough so you can sneak it through a hole in the dashboard you then need some enclosure for the camera to mount it to the surface of the dashboard ... that either requires you find something that is suitable, or you have a 3D printer to print yourself a custom enclosure.
Going by your post ... I think you shouldn't touch it or even try it - given you didn't even realize that the camera has a socketed connection to the main PCB. You may be better off buying a cheapo dashcam from your nearby supermarket or electronics retailer, that's the better option over possibly damaging the hardware of the tablet while trying your solder skills at it (unless you happen to be skilled in hacking about on hardware)

I did realize it was a socketed plug, as I stated in my post, I watched the disassembly videos and I've seen replacement cams for sale. So yes, I clearly knew that. That was the entire purpose of my post. I was hoping someone had a simple solution, possibly knowing of an extension cable with the socketed plug, but knew that was a pretty long shot, which I also stated in my post. But I was throwing it out there, just in case someone knew of a simple option. No, I do not want to mess around with soldering, at that point it's not worth it and easier to buy another external cam. Thanks anyway.