[Q] rewiring cam - Galaxy Tab 2 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

This is probably a stupid question but I figured I'd throw it out there.
I have installed a Tab 2 into the dash of my car. It is integrated into the dashboard now and wired up to the stereo. I would like to have a dash cam. It would be nice to be able to use the cam already in the Tab 2, since it's just sitting there. But this would require me to remove the cam from the board and make it external. I've watched the disassembly videos and I see that the camera appears to be wired through a printed circuit. So I'm assuming it would be nearly impossible to remove this cam and make a longer lead for it so that I can mount it external to the Tab itself? If anyone knows of any easy way to do this, let me know. I'd like to avoid the expense of buying a dash cam. Also, I don't think I have the space available to plug one into the Tab.

Well, on the P3xxx the _backside_ camera is actually plugged into the motherboard (on the bottom side), though if you want to turn that camera into a "dashcam" that may require some skills on your behalf.
You would need to extend the flat-flex cable from the camera ... either by using a matching socket and plug (possibly hard to find, and you also need to solder leads/wires to the pins that are insanely close to each other) or by soldering leads/wires to the pins of the existing socket/plug or in place of the existing socket/plug (requires way above-average soldering skills as you need a low-temp iron and solder that melts at low temps so you don't burn the plastic of the flat flex). If your skills, and equipment, don't stand up to the task of soldering on a flat-flex (remember, the pins, meaning the pitch between them, are insanely close to each other) you're already out of luck.
However, even if you manage to extend the connection between the PCB and the camera and it does work, the question is: "How long can the "cable" be before the signal doesn't get through anymore". That's more like "trial-and-error" than "something that can be estimated".
Let us assume you manage to extend the interface long enough so you can sneak it through a hole in the dashboard you then need some enclosure for the camera to mount it to the surface of the dashboard ... that either requires you find something that is suitable, or you have a 3D printer to print yourself a custom enclosure.
Going by your post ... I think you shouldn't touch it or even try it - given you didn't even realize that the camera has a socketed connection to the main PCB. You may be better off buying a cheapo dashcam from your nearby supermarket or electronics retailer, that's the better option over possibly damaging the hardware of the tablet while trying your solder skills at it (unless you happen to be skilled in hacking about on hardware)

I did realize it was a socketed plug, as I stated in my post, I watched the disassembly videos and I've seen replacement cams for sale. So yes, I clearly knew that. That was the entire purpose of my post. I was hoping someone had a simple solution, possibly knowing of an extension cable with the socketed plug, but knew that was a pretty long shot, which I also stated in my post. But I was throwing it out there, just in case someone knew of a simple option. No, I do not want to mess around with soldering, at that point it's not worth it and easier to buy another external cam. Thanks anyway.

Related

multi basys car kit from Carcomm

Hi All,
just got the second part of this car kit turn up today from totalpda
The kit does not come with a window mount so you will have to source one, but the fixings do have the standard "AMPS" pattern 4 hole screw mounting, so pretty much anything on the 'bay will "do"
There are 2 cables - one for 12/24v DC, terminated in two open wires , and an antenna cable with the usual ..er...FME(?) trailing plug attached to it . The base plate also comes with an in-line fuse holder to make things safer, but you have to provide your own scotch-loks or terminal strip ! theres no provision for connection to an external microphone or line in of the car stereo (Ive been *****ing to carcomm since the HTC TYTN for the latter) However,I have a bluetooh enabled stereo now so this no longer bothers me
The antenna coupler is (I assume) capacitively connected (via an air gap) to the radio antenna but produced a very useful 5dBm CPICH power improvement when wired up to a tri-band band glass mount antenna (verified in the Desires extended engineering hidden menu)
flaws? well just one major goof!
A few times I have used the rear facing camera on my phones, suitably cradled, to capture video of bad driving or other crimes committed in front of me .
no chance of doing that now! the antenna booster section obscures it totally!!
overall though - rather good - although I would have liked to have seen composite video out so i can feed the sat nav output into my flip up TV screen like I "jury rigged" my old htc raphael
hope that helps someone out there - any questions just ask and I will try to answer them
regards
Rob
--
MW0CQU
Photos would be good, thanks
Photos would be good, thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
a fair point, well made ;-)
ok lts see if this will work:
First pic - The empty cradle straight on
the two wires are DC power and antenna cable as described above
Second pic - A side view. odd angles due to door pillar and me being too lazy to unstick the mount. The antenna bulge is part of the "front" plate the back piece is thin and rectangular in section. the whole concept of the multi-basys is to have interchangable front pieces as you change phones over time.
Third pic - Phone fitted , showing a Map
Fourth pic - showing the flaw in that you can put the unit horizontal but you cant use it to video things happening in front of you as the antenna bulge obscures 50% of the view of the camera
hope that helps
Cheers
Rob
--
MW0CQU

How to enable HDMI out, if we could just find a freak'n connector

I found an app in /system/bin/ that lets you control your displays :-D
Now we just need to figure out the pin-out of the connector If somebody can find me a plug that fit the docking port correctly I could probably figure out the pinout for us and post instructions.
Code:
# nvdmmultidisplay
*******************************************************
dmmultidisplay usage:
dmmultidisplay [disp_option] [case_option] <activity_option>
<disp_option> can be one of the following (default is '--lcd'):
--off: Turn off all displays
--lcd: Test LCD Display
--hdmi: Test HDMI with no display on LCD
--crt: Test CRT Display with no display on LCD
--tvout: Test TV-Out Display with no display on LCD
--lcd_hdmi OR --lcd_crt OR --lcd_tvout: Test for dual display at the same time
<case_option> can be one of the following (default is '--case1'):
--case1: Demonstrate case #1
--case2: Demonstrate case #2
<activity_option> can be one of the following:
--ui: Show only UI without playing video
--play: Play only video without displaying UI
--uiplay: Show UI together with playing video
--file <filename>: Video file to be played (including path)
--query_displays: Query some info about all displays
--query_active: Query more info about active displays
Command-line examples:
Turn on LCD and HDMI displays and play default video; use case 1:
dmmultidisplay --lcd_hdmi --play
Turn on LCD and HDMI displays and play default video and show UI; use case 2:
dmmultidisplay --lcd_hdmi --case2 --uiplay
KinkyMunkey said:
I found an app in /system/bin/ that lets you control your displays :-D
Now we just need to figure out the pin-out of the connector If somebody can find me a plug that fit the docking port correctly I could probably figure out the pinout for us and post instructions.
Code:
# nvdmmultidisplay
*******************************************************
dmmultidisplay usage:
dmmultidisplay [disp_option] [case_option] <activity_option>
<disp_option> can be one of the following (default is '--lcd'):
--off: Turn off all displays
--lcd: Test LCD Display
--hdmi: Test HDMI with no display on LCD
--crt: Test CRT Display with no display on LCD
--tvout: Test TV-Out Display with no display on LCD
--lcd_hdmi OR --lcd_crt OR --lcd_tvout: Test for dual display at the same time
<case_option> can be one of the following (default is '--case1'):
--case1: Demonstrate case #1
--case2: Demonstrate case #2
<activity_option> can be one of the following:
--ui: Show only UI without playing video
--play: Play only video without displaying UI
--uiplay: Show UI together with playing video
--file <filename>: Video file to be played (including path)
--query_displays: Query some info about all displays
--query_active: Query more info about active displays
Command-line examples:
Turn on LCD and HDMI displays and play default video; use case 1:
dmmultidisplay --lcd_hdmi --play
Turn on LCD and HDMI displays and play default video and show UI; use case 2:
dmmultidisplay --lcd_hdmi --case2 --uiplay
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does anyone have a SandDisk Sansa device with the connector? I know you can buy breakouts of that connector (like the ipad) from Sparkfun. Maybe that one fits. It is similar to the ipad 30 pin connector
I do. The pins fit perfectly, but it's connector goes to USB. Not sure where to go from here
sledgie said:
I do. The pins fit perfectly, but it's connector goes to USB. Not sure where to go from here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow.. Ok then. I am going to order this. It is a sansa breakout plug that allows you to solder to the board. Once we get it working, we can make a cable with the plug they sell also.
http://www.kineteka.com/sansabreakout.aspx
... and see if we can figure out the pin outs!
Thanks for the update.
YOU ROCK! great find... I just ordered one too....
Does anybody know if it's safe to hook the HDMI directly into the connector? I am worried that the dock might have extra power filtering circuitry or protection we could be bypassing by hooking directly into it. (i have only heard plans for a dock, personally i would rather have an HDMI adapter, it would be AMAZING for presentations, opening up a google docs slideshows work great on this thing already)
Did you try plugging the Sansa USB cable in?
no, i just checked to see if it connected into the port. for gits and shiggles!
Yes, i did plug the USB into my computer. Nothing recognized while G Tab was running 2.04. When i reboot into CWM, i went into mounts and storage, mounted /sdcard. Computer didn't recognize. pulled USB from computer - viewsonic reset. Mounted storage in USB mode - same happened. Nothing showing up on the computer.
I know its not cost effective but wondering if something like this would do anything with the sansa usb connector attached?
http://sewelldirect.com/Sewell-HD-Deck-USB-to-HDMI.asp
KinkyMunkey said:
YOU ROCK! great find... I just ordered one too....
Does anybody know if it's safe to hook the HDMI directly into the connector? I am worried that the dock might have extra power filtering circuitry or protection we could be bypassing by hooking directly into it. (i have only heard plans for a dock, personally i would rather have an HDMI adapter, it would be AMAZING for presentations, opening up a google docs slideshows work great on this thing already)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine is on its way. Tried to find a similar breakout for HDMI, but not found yet. I guess I will just cut the end off a cheap HDMI cable and wire it to the breakout. When we get it right, I will wire it to the regular plug. I bought one of those too.
Now, who is going to figure out the pinouts? I dont have a scope to read signals like these.. just a good multi meter
insight3fl said:
Mine is on its way. Tried to find a similar breakout for HDMI, but not found yet. I guess I will just cut the end off a cheap usb and wire it to the breakout. When we get it right, I will wire it to the regular plug. I bought one of those too.
Now, who is going to figure out the pinouts? I dont have an scope to read signals like these.. just a good muti meter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello guys, I am Mike from Kineteka. We noticed traffic coming from XDA and decided to investigate. We are very interested in your discovery and would like to work with you on developing an HDMI adapter.
Regards,
Mike
Kineteka Systems
Kineteka said:
Hello guys, I am Mike from Kineteka. We noticed traffic coming from XDA and decided to investigate. We are very interested in your discovery and would like to work with you on developing an HDMI adapter.
Regards,
Mike
Kineteka Systems
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Mike! Welcome. We need help! no one has an hdmi cable for the viewsonic yet. As you see, someone believes the sansa cable fits our viewsonic dock... I and others have ordered on that chance. But we do not have the pinout on the dock connector...and as I mentioned, we need a pigtail HDMI cable to connect to the sansa breakout. Can you send me a private message and we can work on this.
thanks
Dennis
Ok... got my sansa connector breakout board/connector and a spare connetor. but, I have not a clue what to do next! The breakout board connector comes with the other parts to put around it such as the locking pins and plastic cover, but there is no way that fits over the breakout pc board, it is slotted for a cable like the parts on the regular cable connnetor I got. So I assume it does not work so I am clueless why it is included. That being said, there is very little contact with the connetor and the port on the tablet (absent the locking pins to hold it in). Now the big question is while I have it "sitting in there" (connected) how do we begin to test any signals coming out of the port??
Kinkymonkey,
Did you get your plug yet and have you had any luck with the pin out?
Mike from Kineteka, can you lend any insight on the pinout for us?
Thanks
So,, What can i supply about your development??
I have received your PM. and what information need i supply?
xjarl said:
I have received your PM. and what information need i supply?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We need the schematic for the connector
Thx
I just got it, but it won't fit the plug, it looks like the metal tabs under the connector are just a little bit closer together then slots on the plug - it fits in sideways but it won't go in straight because of those metal tabs :-( Did it actually fit in yours? (i have one of the first 1000....)
Ya- that black cover in the bag is wierd.. did you notice the big holes in the side too- i think those little tiny plastic clips are meant to cover them- man would that be a pain to put together. it must have come from whatever kit the sansa connector came from, They just bought a bunch of cheap connectors and soldered on the breakout board.
On a plus note, the box also contained a cool rubber ducky robot, a christmas card, and a multipage color sales guide for the archos tablet line (LOL! ironic) so it wasn't a total loss... just a really expensive rubber ducky...
oh, btw wrap a piece of electical tape around the pins coming out the back of the connector (instead of the black plastic cover), that way you don't have to worry about touching them when you are plugging in it (sending static electricity from your fingers into the HDMI connector would probably be a bad thing)
Wrap it from the thick part of the connector back down the pc board coming out the back.
I did that so i could get a better grip - but it still won't fit
KinkyMunkey said:
I just got it, but it won't fit the plug, it looks like the metal tabs under the connector are just a little bit closer together then slots on the plug - it fits in sideways but it won't go in straight because of those metal tabs :-( Did it actually fit in yours? (i have one of the first 1000....)
Ya- that black cover in the bag is wierd.. did you notice the big holes in the side too- i think those little tiny plastic clips are meant to cover them- man would that be a pain to put together. it must have come from whatever kit the sansa connector came from, They just bought a bunch of cheap connectors and soldered on the breakout board.
On a plus note, the box also contained a cool rubber ducky robot, a christmas card, and a multipage color sales guide for the archos tablet line (LOL! ironic) so it wasn't a total loss... just a really expensive rubber ducky...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did not get any of those trinkets......but my plug engages but just not very deep. I wa assuming the metal hook piece ( when it would be assembled with the cover and the black plastic " buttons" for squeezing the pins) would hold it in. But the other poster said his plug fit.....so i dont know.
I wish Mike from the vendor would chime in again.
a bit confused
XDA is no longer worth my time.
I am briefly reserecting this old thread as I got my dock today. I was all set to pull it apart, cut the end off an HDMI cable and try and trace the pinout with my Sensa Breakout plugs I bought from Kinetica. Well, after seeing the connector on the dock, and knowing the Kinetica plug did not fit and I was going to have to modify and force it on someway, it is not even close to looking like the plug on the dock. I think the poster who plugged his Sansa cable in must have forced it or something or it is completely different from the cable that Kinetica sold us as a Sensa plug. It looks so much bigger in width and it the throat is much narrower ( I know the dock plug is made for the tablet to just "sit" on it and not stay pugged in, but even though it does not have the little clips on the sides that hold this type of plug engaged, the SAnsa cable is just not going to work. So, I will not be pulling the dock apart at this time until someone can spec the dock connector and find us one that is an exact fit.
I wasted $20 bucks on those two plugs unfortunately along with a few others here.

[Q] Question about One pus One logic board

Ok well here is my issue. While replacing the LCD assembly on my one plus one I managed to rip off the metal connectors(I believe they are called pogo sticks) on the logic board that make contact with the antenna's on the back cover. I ripped the ones that control the WiFi/Bluetooth and also the GPS one. I was trying to figure out how to fix this since when trying to soder them back on there was nothing they could be soldered to. I'm basically left with the empty spots on the PCB board where they are supposed to go. While looking at the logic board I saw that there are a couple of pigtail looking connectors on it that don't have anything particularly connected to them. I was wondering if I could use those to repair my connection issues. Or of any of you have any advice to give thank you for all your help ^_^

WIP Modding the mod. JBL speaker mod thread

Figured why not since it has been asked. Here are some images before i start work.
Disassembly requires removal of the back sticker. Its very thick held on by some pretty strong adhesive. It will come off one time and its not going to be able to be reused. I am working on a file for those with die cutters or a cricut like my self to remake a new rear sticker.
Back looks very promising. Test points and lots of them. And look at that. We have GND, outs for both AMP's AUDIO in and all that good stuff as well as full points for the ARM micro in it.
Mods. 3.5mm in and 3.5mm out. So it can be stand alone or you can make use of the mods amp and what not for some better audio. Micro switch to set it from the mods speakers, line in and line out.
Note.
Speakers are set up so they are sealed. You do not want to mod this area. JBL did all the math for this and you will alter the sound. Good news is there is a fair amount of room in the bottom of the unit. Also the kick stand can be easily replaced as well as the usb type c. Very well engineered unit. And no you can not add a larger battery. Thats the biggest that will fit.
This will not be a find the test point and solder a wire. It just will not work with how its layed out. It will all be done from the underside but sould be pretty easy. Hell you can relocate the type c under the kickstrand if you are skilled.
Awesome initiative. Keep it going!
Yeah, keep us posted for sure!
What are your goals/objectives for the mods? I'm very curious to see what can be done myself.
Interesting... I may open mine and turn it into a boom box.
I'll be working on this more this weekend. Did some measurements with the test points and got a sloppy and quick 3.5mm on it that worked. Now to start tracing the traces and planing it out.
bignazpwns said:
I'll be working on this more this weekend. Did some measurements with the test points and got a sloppy and quick 3.5mm on it that worked. Now to start tracing the traces and planing it out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any updates? I haven't had time to mess with mine at all.
bignazpwns said:
Figured why not since it has been asked. Here are some images before i start work.
Disassembly requires removal of the back sticker. Its very thick held on by some pretty strong adhesive. It will come off one time and its not going to be able to be reused. I am working on a file for those with die cutters or a cricut like my self to remake a new rear sticker.
Back looks very promising. Test points and lots of them. And look at that. We have GND, outs for both AMP's AUDIO in and all that good stuff as well as full points for the ARM micro in it.
Mods. 3.5mm in and 3.5mm out. So it can be stand alone or you can make use of the mods amp and what not for some better audio. Micro switch to set it from the mods speakers, line in and line out.
Note.
Speakers are set up so they are sealed. You do not want to mod this area. JBL did all the math for this and you will alter the sound. Good news is there is a fair amount of room in the bottom of the unit. Also the kick stand can be easily replaced as well as the usb type c. Very well engineered unit. And no you can not add a larger battery. Thats the biggest that will fit.
This will not be a find the test point and solder a wire. It just will not work with how its layed out. It will all be done from the underside but sould be pretty easy. Hell you can relocate the type c under the kickstrand if you are skilled.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
I'm currently trying to mod my JBL soundboost 2 to add a jack input because my custom rom doesn't support audio routing for moto mods, but I can't find where to make a connection to the amplifier input. I found something to make a connection at amplifier output, but if I use this the sound will be very low,like in headphones. that's why I'm searching for the amplifier input.
I know it was long ago, but I just found your work on xda and I would like to know if you remember where the amplifier input is located. Thanks !
If you can't or don't remember don't worry
Hello, how are you? I hope you have had an exit, for weeks I have been measuring in free time to try to add a 3.5 mm jack or a bluetooth module, but I can not achieve it since it has an i2c and an i2s bus and I do not know how to connect it , do you have any idea how? Thanks a lot

Please HELP, broken display.

My lenovo p2 display is dead.
All I can do is access Fastboot and on ADB it shows the device.
USB debugging is off and Bootloader is unlocked.
What should i do with my broken phone?
Can I use it to make a old TV smart TV. (like connect hdmi to display port of phone and use USB as keyboard and mouse?
please suggest.
I somewhere read to edit build.prop and edit ROM files and then flashing it, would make device have USB debugging on by default and i would be able to use with some mirror app.
Please suggestions are highly appreciated.
You could host stuff on it but it's not that useful imho. Would rather just use a small Raspberry pi for something like that for htpc or media.
What you can do instead is try to repair it. All you need for a screen replacement is:
- Screw driver with bit PH.000
- Pray tool or use your nails if you have nails (I cut them but obviously not too far. The guy in the video has nails too long looks nasty, lol..) You could use a knife carefully but don't damage the case. The screen doesn't matter obviously because it's broken already.
Screen assembly online (I don't know this seller):
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32893311613.html
It's really easy. On the back of the phone you have two plastic pieces, carefully remove them and unscrew and use a prey tool to get the back cover off.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24eGH-_2NN0
If you are in this far I would (if I was you) toss in another 10 euro for a new oem bettery I have here one too for spare (from ali seems to be legit, same weight and labels as original I did a compare), also for another 15 euro shipped you get complete original phone case but keep in mind for this you need to have the following tools. If you want the links to the sellers let me know all the parts I did order where original I was surprised. This is why I like Lenovo. Try this with Samsung or Apple. You always get a refurb screen or fake ****ty parts.
Parts needed for when you replace the case of the phone:
- 3M 9448AB 2mm (double sided 3m tape roll 0.5m) use for other parts like buttons and such
- 3M 9448AB 5mm (double sided 3m tape roll 0.5m) use for battery glue
- Thermal paste for the SOC heatsink (yep really)
Good luck :good:
I would totally do that, if it were 2018.
SD 625 is outdated.
I was hoping if i could use my phone processing power to play videos and apps on a non smart TV.
Thankyou for your efforts though, thats a really detailed answer.
shiahwsh said:
I would totally do that, if it were 2018.
SD 625 is outdated.
I was hoping if i could use my phone processing power to play videos and apps on a non smart TV.
Thankyou for your efforts though, thats a really detailed answer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Depends on what you do with it in general, but I agree that the software is outdated and probably with new firmware the phone will run a lot slower.
I do still use it but I am not a gamer or "power user", I mean define "power user" on a phone :laugh:. I use it for calls, text messaging some web browsing and maybe some video's. Still works fine for that purpose, but it got a bit slower over the years because of all the added features and increase of codebase of literally 99% of the apps and google services running in the background.

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