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Do different chargers matter?

There are a couple of threads here about different chargers. Some people claim different charging rates, some claim different resulting battery life, and some claims are outright outrageous from an engineering perspective.
So I did a test.
Short Answer: No unless using the computer
Charging from the wall is faster than charging from a computer. But the big NO comes in the form of people claiming improvements from chargers other than the official Samsung one.
Long answer:
So I proceeded to build a test rig and check various chargers in various conditions. The conditions tested were: Phone flat (10% charge), Phone nearly full (80% charge) and Phone Full. In all cases tests were done with the screen showing white, and all wireless on, and the screen showing black and in airplane mode to see what impact it had on different chargers.
The chargers which were tested:
700mA Samsung charger that came with the phone
Computer USB power
500mA generic wall USB charger with Chinese written all over it
800mA Car USB charger
1A iPhone wall USB charger
1A HTC wall USB charger (not sure which phone it comes with)
added a 30A bench supply just to be sure, only 80% test done.
Before I continue I should say that the screen off and screen on as well as airplane mode would have an impact on battery charging rate providing the charging current is constant. I.e. You draw 500mA from the wall when the screen is off and the screen is on, there's a difference which is only likely to be going into the battery.
The method was to build a little pass through device that gave me access to all the USB lines. I broke the 5V line and passed it through 2 multi-meters one measuring current through the line and the other measuring voltage.
Results:
Phone at 10%
0.7A Samsung -> 475mA
Computer -> 83-87mA (no voltage sag)
0.5A Generic -> 345-380mA (Note voltage sagging at 3.8V indicates that the device is underpowered)
0.8A Car -> 478mA
1A iPhone -> 470mA
1A HTC -> 476mA​
Phone at 80%
0.7A Samsung -> 472mA
Computer -> 84-90mA
0.5A Generic (test not repeated due to power concerns)
0.8A Car -> 471mA
1A iPhone -> 475mA
1A HTC -> 471mA
30A Bench -> 470mA​
Phone at fully charged
0.7A Samsung -> 12mA
Computer -> 11-14mA (noisy voltage line)
0.5A -> 12mA
0.8A Car -> 12mA
1A iPhone -> 12mA
1A HTC -> 12mA​
Variances with screen and cell networks:
No changes were observed on any charger between switching the screen off and displaying white as well as switching airplane mode off and on. Until that is the battery was fully charged.
The phone idles at 12mA on airplane mode with the screen off.
With the wireless and cell on the phone jumps between 10mA and 40mA every 2-10 seconds for about 3 seconds. It looks like it is polling the wireless.
With the screen on displaying white full brightness the phone jumps between 130mA and 170mA.
This is interesting as it would suggest that if the cell and wireless are on and the screen is set to maximum brightness you'll likely be draining your battery even through it's on charge if you're plugged into the computer.​
Discussion of results:
If your charger is underpowered expect problems. I wouldn't use a cheap Chinese USB -> wall adapter with the phone. But if your charger is capable of supplying at least 700mA then there is absolutely no difference going beyond that.
The computer only drawing less than 100mA is consistent with the windows driver interface saying that the phone has only requested 100mA from the USB slot. This is a driver issue as the USB2.0 spec should be able to provide 500mA from a USB port providing it is the only device on the hub drawing power.
The claim that you get more battery life out of a different charger is absurd. There were theories floating around about "topping up" batteries requiring a lot of power. Actually it's exactly the opposite. As batteries top up the power demands decrease a LOT. Above about 95% there was a noticeable slow decline in current draw. Eventually even before the battery full notice came on the phone was drawing less than 160mA from the wall, and about 10 seconds after saying battery is full it dropped down to the levels mentioned above.
There are a lot of things that can cause variances in battery life, but using a different charger is not one because you are not using a different charger just providing power from a different source. The charger is a small chip on the board of the SGS made by Maxim. If you provide the phone with 5V and >500mA it will happily draw the 500mA. The only exception being the computer power supply.

Thanks for the time you took for testing this, will soak all this text & do my testing based on your method to see if it does make any noticeable difference or not.

thanks for the info. its very usefull.. I appreciated it..

garbz said:
The computer only drawing less than 100mA is consistent with the windows driver interface saying that the phone has only requested 100mA from the USB slot. This is a driver issue as the USB2.0 spec should be able to provide 500mA from a USB port providing it is the only device on the hub drawing power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So are you saying that a driver upgrade would allow my phone to charge just as quickly from the computer as from the Samsung charger that came with the phone? Presumably, using Linux would also solve this?
I'm actually interested in the heat generated by charging. I recently installed some navigation software and used it for the first time on Thursday. Obviously the screen was on constantly as was GPS. Because I only had around 25% charge when I began my journey, I was charging it continually from the moment I left the house. The sun was shining on the windscreen and very quickly the combination of the sun, continual charging and the draw on the battery from the display etc caused the battery temperature to climb to around 63 degrees C. A status message popped up and told me that charging had ceased because the temperature had become too high.
It's a very clever feature that the software recognises that the temperature has become too high and ceases charging but I'm looking to stop this from happening. I tried turning off wifi etc but this didn't make much difference.
Unfortunately, the cigarette lighter -> USB charger I have doesn't tell me how many mA it's providing. I just wondered whether using a car charger with a lower (or perhaps even higher) mA rating might cause less overheat? Otherwise I'm afraid my phone mightn't be usable as a navigation device.

Wierd, as my Logitech charger (don't know the amperage, around 1-2A I got fot the Performance MX) seems to be charging the phone quite faster than the included flimsy Samsung. (Up to the 90% mark, where it tapers off to trickle charging.)

Dude, that's awesome. You saved me some money with that... I was planning on buying another charger to see if it'll be better.
Good job, and thanks for doing that!

TormodMacleod said:
So are you saying that a driver upgrade would allow my phone to charge just as quickly from the computer as from the Samsung charger that came with the phone? Presumably, using Linux would also solve this?
I'm actually interested in the heat generated by charging.
...
It's a very clever feature that the software recognises that the temperature has become too high and ceases charging but I'm looking to stop this from happening. I tried turning off wifi etc but this didn't make much difference.
...
I just wondered whether using a car charger with a lower (or perhaps even higher) mA rating might cause less overheat? Otherwise I'm afraid my phone mightn't be usable as a navigation device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't worry about the heat. As you said yourself it has an internal cut-off. These cut-offs work before the device is damaged not after. High heat may reduce long term life but it's generally not an issue.
Much of the heat actually comes from the power conversion circuit at the top when charging and when the screen is on and not from the battery. While overseas I used my phone for about a month straight as a Mobile AP while on charge, now THAT generates a heck of a lot of heat and I had no ill effect after a month of daily usage for about 6 hours like this, so you should be fine.
Do NOT use an under powered car charger. At best you'll blow a fuse in it, at worst you can cause it to burn. Overloading a charger is not an effective way of limiting current. Not to mention that when overloading the voltage drops which may cause unexpected effects in the phone.
As for the USB thing, no Linux won't help. This isn't a windows issue it's a USB issue. USB2.0 ports provide 100mA of power UNLESS a device specific driver requests more power from the system. It would be a combination of a custom driver for the PC, and probably a change in the phone depending on how the phone's power circuit works (i.e. does the phone tell the power circuit it's plugged into the PC and limit the current?)
Sinotek said:
Dude, that's awesome. You saved me some money with that... I was planning on buying another charger to see if it'll be better.
Good job, and thanks for doing that!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome.
This was more for my own benefit really. Everything I know about electronics would lead to the conclusion of clever trickery, a potential fire hazard when using low power chargers, or that people weren't seeing right. It was driving me nuts not knowing.

I had Theo Same doubys. Thanks for testing. Appreciatie Theo effort made
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA App

there ARE differences between chargers.
for example:
with sgs stock charger [700mA] when i download from internet [HSDPA 7.2 Mb] and set brightness to maximum it is discharging instead of charging. the result is even worse with lower charger.
i am using 1200 mA charger from a Nokia N900 and it is doing the job very well.
some say that powerfull chargers shortens the battery life, but i do not care about that.

The data nor the theory back that up.
Suppose the phone did draw a variable current, what's to stop the resulting fire hazard of overloading the charger?
If I knew someone with an N900 I'd be happy to try it for you but given the results so far... actually I do have one more thing I can test.

Flashlight on to keep screen at 100% brightness, downloading JVP, and powered by a 30A !!! powersupply.
End result is it still uses 470mA.
There is nothing to back up the idea that different powerpacks make any difference, and plenty of logical theory as to why it would be a very bloody bad idea to blindly just start drawing power.
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garbz said:
Flashlight on to keep screen at 100% brightness, downloading JVP, and powered by a 30A !!! powersupply.
End result is it still uses 470mA.
There is nothing to back up the idea that different powerpacks make any difference, and plenty of logical theory as to why it would be a very bloody bad idea to blindly just start drawing power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ah, the old computer PSU-> lab power supply trick. Favorite of EE students everywhere

Extraordinary work, garbz.

Nice Job.
So I'll look for a 1A charger in order to get it full short and dirty ;-)

thanks for this my friend kept on telling me that I need a more ''powerful" charger than the one that came with my vibrant :/

Sorry to bump an old topic but thought it worth doing as this is a very good thread to answer the question about chargers. I have a Note which comes with a 1A charger but the lead is short, I need to use an adapter to fit the plug in (as it's EU and I'm in the UK) plus the charger makes a slight high frequency buzzing noise. My N900 charger which is 1200mA works fine (and has a longer lead, is silent and doesn't need an adapter) and I assumed the device would draw the current it needs but was then concerned by some people claiming that would damage the battery, this thread shows that is not the case.
John

There's an explanation here of why different chargers do indeed make a difference:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Usb#Power
see in particular the note on the Battery Charger Spec.
In particular. my own testing shows I can go from 500ma to 700mA charging current simply by changing a small connector in line between the 7Ahr battery I'm using to charge the phone, and the phone. That's due to the nature of the short on the data pins.
There are proprietary tweaks to this mechanism; e.g. iPhones use voltage signalling between the two data lines and ground to indicate various things to the device.
All of this is only for "hosts", i.e. chargers etc, that don't implement the USB protocol and so can't engage in the normal current negotation that occurs when connecting e.g. the device to a PC.

Yeah they to I was at my uncles place and I pluged the micro-USB for sgs and charged it. I tried moving the lockscreen but the touchscreen wasn't working
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA App

THank you for the Review!

thanks for all the info!

Need some help with otg + charge mod

Dear XDA, i really need your help,
I am planning to make this (see thubnail)
i want to make a custom case for my htc one s. (I know it will be a little bigger but that's ok)
I want to charge my phone using a usb cable or a micro usb cable, and at the same time doing OTG. I don't know what resistor i will use yet (tips?)
Also add an extra battery. It is an old phone battery. So if i want to charge from the battery i need to stop the solar cell and guide the electricity through the 5v regulator to charge. What ya think?
I am new to modding so please comment cause i need a lot of help to make this one succeed!
Greetings, pro-one1000
sent from htc one s ville

Don't mean to be negative but I see a couple issues right of the bat. First, where are you going to get a 5 volt charger? I would guess most dc chargers are going to be 12, 24, or 36 volts. I don't think they'll run on significantly less. The solar panel is only going to output about one half of one watt. Assuming no friction loss or inefficiencies that would hardly slow your phone's discharge.
If you want to power the phone and hub I would suggest a small sealed lead acid battery. They're available in 12 volts in many sizes. Easily enough power to keep phone totally charged. Will work with cigarette lighter car chargers so you won't need to customize that part. Depending on the size it'll last a week to a month non-stop. Unfortunately, it probably won't fit in your pocket but if you carry a book bag or briefcase you could hide it there... I use a battery like this at work when I'm using a lot of phone battery and moving around too much to plug in.
Good luck with which ever route you choose!
Sent from my HTC One S using xda app-developers app

thanks
lampel said:
Don't mean to be negative but I see a couple issues right of the bat. First, where are you going to get a 5 volt charger? I would guess most dc chargers are going to be 12, 24, or 36 volts. I don't think they'll run on significantly less. The solar panel is only going to output about one half of one watt. Assuming no friction loss or inefficiencies that would hardly slow your phone's discharge.
If you want to power the phone and hub I would suggest a small sealed lead acid battery. They're available in 12 volts in many sizes. Easily enough power to keep phone totally charged. Will work with cigarette lighter car chargers so you won't need to customize that part. Depending on the size it'll last a week to a month non-stop. Unfortunately, it probably won't fit in your pocket but if you carry a book bag or briefcase you could hide it there... I use a battery like this at work when I'm using a lot of phone battery and moving around too much to plug in.
Good luck with which ever route you choose!
Sent from my HTC One S using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply!
First about the charger, i will use my 5v 1amp charger (micro usb) or an usb male to male usb cable from my pc to charge. So i'll be able to get a charger.
You're i think right about the solar panel, i need to find a better one indeed, trying to get one cheap on ebay! If i try to search for a "smal sealed lead acid battery" i get 40 dollar + big cases of batteries, could you please give a example in the form of an ebay-link?
Anyway thanks a lot and when i have ordered the parts i will try to upload the stuff!
Greetings

I'm assuming the 5v charger you're talking about it a car charger; which means it would have an input voltage of 12 - 14 and won't run on 3.7 (and even if it could run on the lower voltage the amperage would go up dramatically draining the usable power in the battery in minutes. And I wouldn't connect anything to a USB port for two reasons: first, if you connect two batteries in parallel (red to red and black to black) and they're not identical one will usually drain the other as they try and equalize (unless you isolate them from each other). Second, I don't think most USB ports (USB 3.0 i believe has provisions to receive power) are designed to receive power on a computer and your schematic doesn't include anything to prevent back feeding power to the computer.
There are many solar chargers I've seen that would give you the output you need - I've seen them designed to trickle charge RVs, boats, cars, and motorcycles - but I think they would be way to larger for what your looking for.
And I guess I should clarify what I meant by small... Was a bad choice of words for a cell phone forum, I guess. I meant small relative to other lead acid batteries; i.e. car or boat batteries. This is similiar to what I use:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12VOLT-5AMP...US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item589ef11aed
Attached is a pic of my batteries and the adapter that gives me a cigarette lighter type receptacle. And I use a spare motorcycle float charger to keep them charged. And because they're 12 volt batteries they'll power and accessory that is designed to run in a car.
I guess I should probably have asked what is your ultimate goal? And do you carry anything where you could stash the battery?
giesse1996 said:
Thanks for your reply!
First about the charger, i will use my 5v 1amp charger (micro usb) or an usb male to male usb cable from my pc to charge. So i'll be able to get a charger.
You're i think right about the solar panel, i need to find a better one indeed, trying to get one cheap on ebay! If i try to search for a "smal sealed lead acid battery" i get 40 dollar + big cases of batteries, could you please give a example in the form of an ebay-link?
Anyway thanks a lot and when i have ordered the parts i will try to upload the stuff!
Greetings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Thanks for your reply,
After thinking I want to use a second1-5 volt boost regulator attached a small high capicity battery of 3.7 volt. (like a galaxy sIII battery or something. So if i put the switch to on the extra battery should charge with 5v my phone battery. Or i could charge my phone directly from a high efficient solar cell with 5v.
I indeed have no idea how to prevent backfleeding. Do I need diodes / light emmitting diodes for this? And indeed the batteries you mentioned are way to big. I am planning to use an old battery from an other phone with the 5v boost regulator mentioned above. Further i don't understand where you see a computer in my scheme?
Your mod ( i think i it deserves that wonderfull name) with the 12v battery is a good idea. Very handy when going out without a charge point. I usually go to school and am probably able to put the large battery in there, but as i mentioned i want to keep it a "phone case".
My ultimate goal is to make the tiniest possible case for the htc one s ville with,
- a very small usb hub 4 port for 3 female ports and inside a micro sdhc memory for more storage.
- Add the charge ability, so i don't need to take the phone out of the case to charge
- be in otg mode and charging mode at the same time (i guess the hardest challenge)
optionary:
- Add a battery so when i get the actual phone out of the case the solar cell can keep providing power to the battery
- Add a solar cell
- make it actual work with multiple switches
Really appreciate your help!
Greetings,

I misunderstood "First about the charger, i will use my 5v 1amp charger (micro usb) or an usb male to male usb cable from my pc to charge" to mean you might have a computer available to charge. I guess you just meant the cable itself. Understood.
I'm not an electronics expert by any means but yes I believe diodes will prevent the current from flowing in an undesirable direction but they won't prevent one battery from draining another. Two batteries connected in parallel can drain each other and the diode will slow that but I don't think it will eliminate it. Might be able to mitigate the affect by opening one of your switches when the auxiliary battery is not in use. When two batteries are wired in parallel they are frequently connected to an isolator that has three terminals (for a two battery setup). Terminals one and two go to batteries one and two and terminal three goes to the system it's connected to. Batteries one and two never 'see' each other and therefore cannot affect or drain each other.
Not sure I have anything else that can really help... GOOD LUCK! And post pics and details if you build a working prototype.

Thanks again!
I'll try to order a couple extra diodes with low consuption, that plus the switches will hopefully do the job. I ordered yesterday the parts out of China, so it'll take a month to get it in my hands. Now I have more time to consider how it can be assembled all together, but if i get anything i will post it directly!! If it works i may try to make a tutorial for other people so they could also enjoy more ports on their phone!
Greetings

[Q] My N8000 facing a problem about charging.

Hello, I'm a N8000 user. I'm facing a problem with my charging issue where my tab take a long time to charge and it takes 10 hours to get from 0-60 %. FYI, I'm using a custom rom CM 10.2. What is the main cause with the charging issue? Does it related with charging port, battery or charger itself? please help me. I'm stuck now.

[QUOTE8=syafix21;50085752]Hello, I'm a N8000 user. I'm facing a problem with my charging issue where my tab take a long time to charge and it takes 10 hours to get from 0-60 %. FYI, I'm using a custom rom CM 10.2. What is the main cause with the charging issue? Does it related with charging port, battery or charger itself? please help me. I'm stuck now.[/QUOTE]
Charger maybe, but most on here get a new factory cabel and that takes care of it.

syafix21 said:
Hello, I'm a N8000 user. I'm facing a problem with my charging issue where my tab take a long time to charge and it takes 10 hours to get from 0-60 %. FYI, I'm using a custom rom CM 10.2. What is the main cause with the charging issue? Does it related with charging port, battery or charger itself? please help me. I'm stuck now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many similar thread already here & also the solutions.
But let me answer anyway.
Charging problem occurs because of one or more things:
Broken Cable
Broken Charger
Incompatible Cable
Incompatible Charger
Broken Outlet
Broken Charging Port
Broken Battery
To properly charging a N80XX we need a charger & cable that can deliver 2.1A, 5V of electrical current & voltage.
The factory default/initial charger & cable designed to deliver these requirements.
Using custom/cheap cable or cable extension can cause charging problem as it wasn't designed to deliver the required current & voltage.
Most custom cables & chargers on the market designed only to deliver 500mA(0.5A) - 1A, 5V.
Broken cable/charger can also cause it to fail in delivering 2.1A, 5V to the device.
Try another original cable/charger combination to test if one of them or both are broken.
Also try another electrical wall outlet to see if the outlet is the culprit.
For Broken Charging Port, you can change it yourself by buying the spare part & replace the broken one, but it requires high technical skills.
One mistake can cause you to ditch your device.
It's safer if you send it to a qualified/authorized service center or if it's still under warranty you can send it back to samsung.
The last possibility is extremely rare.
Broken Battery symptoms are usually different than your problem symptoms.
If the battery is broken, usually the battery life is shorter than usual and may be won't charge at all or charging time is very short.
But if this is your problem, you can't sent it back to samsung - unless the battery is factory damaged -, as you need to change the internal battery.
Try to find out which one is your real problem & fix it
REMINDER:
2.1A is producing heat so much that hurt your skin if you touch the metal part of the cable heads directly right after a long period of charging.
The heat it produce is much more intense than if you are using 500mA or 1A charger.
Poorly designed custom cable/charger can be melted by the heat & may cause explosion!!
...and.....ALWAYS SEARCH BEFORE ASKING!!
I hope this will help

I'd like to add that I was facing similar problem.
In my case, the problem was a stock charger cable.
It was not "broken" (in the meaning of totally cracked or cut cable) but it seemed that it isn't providing a stable voltage. In result, I was able to load the battery only when not using the device (plus the process was as slow as hell), coz when using it, the consumed power was higher than provided by the charger.
Meanwhile, before the problem occured, I was testing other solutions to be able to make charging cord longer than provided stock, which is only 1m. Those tests included using of the additional 2m USB-USB expansion cable which I was plugging to the plastic charger element from the one side and to the regular charging cable at the second side. Such a combination resulted in similiar results as above - then, it became obvious for me that the tablet consumes or wants to consume so high power that low-quality USB cable can't handle, and - especially if it is 2m long - it's degrading onto his way to the tablet.
Then, I am not sure if n8000, by demanding so much power, is not degrading the cable (even stock one) itself. I must say, that after that, I was using another charger cables (n8000 dedicated, one 2m second one 1.5m, both not original) which started to work significantly worse in even shorter time such as two weeks after first use. I am not a electrician or hardware specialist, I dunno if it is possible to degenerate the usb cable with the voltage such as one needed for charging the tablet, but during my over 10 years of passion within mobile devices, I have killed no more than 2 chargers IN TOTAL. N8000 killed 3 charging cables within 8 months.
For some time, I use another combination - I use a 1,5 long A/C extension cord, with a handy "8" plug at the second end. This fits into the charger "central box" after you dissolve it into two parts. Now, the voltage will not degenerate onto this 1.5m distance, as the cable of that type was designed particularly for 230V transfers, but it will still be perfectly mobile. At the second side of the box, I do not plug back the 1m stock cable (or longer not-official ones), but a cable that the Samsung provided along with an external battery, which is possible to buy here and there... It is about... 20 cm long The purpose of this was to avoid the energy lossess that occured when using longer cables and preserve the maximum possible charging rate. Since then (and about 5 months has passed) I have no further problems with charging, and the battery life seems to be much more better than I supposed it to be after over a year of really extensive usage (the only issue of above solution is that the plastic box in the middle is making really really hot, but it is not a critical problem i suppose, as since 5 months it HASN'T melted, exploded or something )

hay....i have the same problem but this tablet doesnt get charging
i think its not about charger because it gives 5v and 2A after the usb flat but in battery connector i got no current and there is just less than 1V voltage

Bypassing the battery on Nexus 5

I'd like to know if there is a way to build an electric circuit to allow you to power up and operate a Nexus 5 without a battery attached.
I'd like to use the Nexus 5 as a "fixed" device, always on, always connected to the mains. Leaving the battery inside will cause it to age and eventually burst.
I'm guessing I could either try to feed the phone 3.8V (as the battery is rated), but I can't send the battery temperature values on its connector, or destroy the battery, remove the battery elements and leave the electronics in place and feed it current from there.
Before I break something, I'd like to ask if it has been done already.
Thanks!

-

inigo333 said:
Any success doing so? (inigo333 at gmail.com)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't had time to try it yet, but a colleague suggested I try adding 2 diodes on the 5V line from USB to lower the voltage to 3.8V. I will plug this into the battery's circuit, replacing the other elements. I'll let you know when I get around to doing it (in a month or so).

Did it work?

Though it's been years - I haven't had time to try it
When I do, I'll probably go with one diode and supply 4.3V to the battery pins - because Li-Ion batteries can go to 4.3V...

Best solution for battery problem.
Attach 2 numbers of 18650 lithium cell of capacity 2200mah in parallel using smd type battery holder at the back panel.
Add an external li-ion battery charging module chip on the same side.
Take the internal battery's power management chip, discard the internal cell.
Connect externally attached battery power (+) & (-) ve to the internal power management chip of old battery.
Re assemble the mounted unit. Charge externally and enjoy.
Only problem is that, slim set becomes bulky.

Thanks,
But the problem is I wanted to run the Nexus 5 without a battery (from a charger). The goal being - it is always on, and there are no batteries to swell..

mad_ady said:
Thanks,
But the problem is I wanted to run the Nexus 5 without a battery (from a charger). The goal being - it is always on, and there are no batteries to swell..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

The MT3608 2A Max DC-DC Step Up Power Module Booster Power Module is a low-cost module that can step-up a 2 to 24V input voltage up to a 5 to 28V output at up to 2A.
Use it inside the battery compartment.
Before installing preset output to 3.7-3.8 volt.
Fix it and use on dc 5 volt charger.

S7e battery in S6. Not charging.

I'm trying the S7e battery in the S6 hack. I've tried two batteries from amazon and neither have charged. Is there something about some S6s, mine's the 920W8, that make it incompatible with the S7e battery? Or is it it likely a crappy battery from a crappy seller issue? I've got Prime, so I'll just send it back and maybe get an S7 or regular S6 battery otherwise.

If you have a volt meter id suggest probing the leads. After long or incorrect storage the cell may have dropped below minimum voltage. You may have to manually charge it using a 3V wall plug till it reads over 2.7V. I have a variable output wall plug i with the wire ends stripped i use for that exact purpose. "Fixed" a Snap On power tool battery pack a few days ago with it, 6 out of 12 cells managed to get down to 0V somehow.

Rouwdyboy said:
If you have a volt meter id suggest probing the leads. After long or incorrect storage the cell may have dropped below minimum voltage. You may have to manually charge it using a 3V wall plug till it reads over 2.7V. I have a variable output wall plug i with the wire ends stripped i use for that exact purpose. "Fixed" a Snap On power tool battery pack a few days ago with it, 6 out of 12 cells managed to get down to 0V somehow.
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Thanks! I borrowed a volt meter. I get 12V when probing pretty much all combinations of points on the leads. I tried my existing S6 battery too and got 15V. Neither 12V or 15V are what is printed on either of the batteries. They say Nominal Voltage of 3.85V and Charge Voltage of 4.4V. Is that normal?

Oh wierd. You sure you have that set to the correct range on the meter? They can be extremely inaccurate if on the wrong range or if the meter battery is low. DC and single digit settings with the battery disconnect from anything else. I'll be placing an order soon to do mine, I'll post what measurements i get then. The labeled voltage is normal for a cell, but I'm starting to think their is some small logic in the battery package. Let me know once youve double checked your readings.

https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=78678894&postcount=5