There are a couple of threads here about different chargers. Some people claim different charging rates, some claim different resulting battery life, and some claims are outright outrageous from an engineering perspective.
So I did a test.
Short Answer: No unless using the computer
Charging from the wall is faster than charging from a computer. But the big NO comes in the form of people claiming improvements from chargers other than the official Samsung one.
Long answer:
So I proceeded to build a test rig and check various chargers in various conditions. The conditions tested were: Phone flat (10% charge), Phone nearly full (80% charge) and Phone Full. In all cases tests were done with the screen showing white, and all wireless on, and the screen showing black and in airplane mode to see what impact it had on different chargers.
The chargers which were tested:
700mA Samsung charger that came with the phone
Computer USB power
500mA generic wall USB charger with Chinese written all over it
800mA Car USB charger
1A iPhone wall USB charger
1A HTC wall USB charger (not sure which phone it comes with)
added a 30A bench supply just to be sure, only 80% test done.
Before I continue I should say that the screen off and screen on as well as airplane mode would have an impact on battery charging rate providing the charging current is constant. I.e. You draw 500mA from the wall when the screen is off and the screen is on, there's a difference which is only likely to be going into the battery.
The method was to build a little pass through device that gave me access to all the USB lines. I broke the 5V line and passed it through 2 multi-meters one measuring current through the line and the other measuring voltage.
Results:
Phone at 10%
0.7A Samsung -> 475mA
Computer -> 83-87mA (no voltage sag)
0.5A Generic -> 345-380mA (Note voltage sagging at 3.8V indicates that the device is underpowered)
0.8A Car -> 478mA
1A iPhone -> 470mA
1A HTC -> 476mA
Phone at 80%
0.7A Samsung -> 472mA
Computer -> 84-90mA
0.5A Generic (test not repeated due to power concerns)
0.8A Car -> 471mA
1A iPhone -> 475mA
1A HTC -> 471mA
30A Bench -> 470mA
Phone at fully charged
0.7A Samsung -> 12mA
Computer -> 11-14mA (noisy voltage line)
0.5A -> 12mA
0.8A Car -> 12mA
1A iPhone -> 12mA
1A HTC -> 12mA
Variances with screen and cell networks:
No changes were observed on any charger between switching the screen off and displaying white as well as switching airplane mode off and on. Until that is the battery was fully charged.
The phone idles at 12mA on airplane mode with the screen off.
With the wireless and cell on the phone jumps between 10mA and 40mA every 2-10 seconds for about 3 seconds. It looks like it is polling the wireless.
With the screen on displaying white full brightness the phone jumps between 130mA and 170mA.
This is interesting as it would suggest that if the cell and wireless are on and the screen is set to maximum brightness you'll likely be draining your battery even through it's on charge if you're plugged into the computer.
Discussion of results:
If your charger is underpowered expect problems. I wouldn't use a cheap Chinese USB -> wall adapter with the phone. But if your charger is capable of supplying at least 700mA then there is absolutely no difference going beyond that.
The computer only drawing less than 100mA is consistent with the windows driver interface saying that the phone has only requested 100mA from the USB slot. This is a driver issue as the USB2.0 spec should be able to provide 500mA from a USB port providing it is the only device on the hub drawing power.
The claim that you get more battery life out of a different charger is absurd. There were theories floating around about "topping up" batteries requiring a lot of power. Actually it's exactly the opposite. As batteries top up the power demands decrease a LOT. Above about 95% there was a noticeable slow decline in current draw. Eventually even before the battery full notice came on the phone was drawing less than 160mA from the wall, and about 10 seconds after saying battery is full it dropped down to the levels mentioned above.
There are a lot of things that can cause variances in battery life, but using a different charger is not one because you are not using a different charger just providing power from a different source. The charger is a small chip on the board of the SGS made by Maxim. If you provide the phone with 5V and >500mA it will happily draw the 500mA. The only exception being the computer power supply.
Thanks for the time you took for testing this, will soak all this text & do my testing based on your method to see if it does make any noticeable difference or not.
thanks for the info. its very usefull.. I appreciated it..
garbz said:
The computer only drawing less than 100mA is consistent with the windows driver interface saying that the phone has only requested 100mA from the USB slot. This is a driver issue as the USB2.0 spec should be able to provide 500mA from a USB port providing it is the only device on the hub drawing power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So are you saying that a driver upgrade would allow my phone to charge just as quickly from the computer as from the Samsung charger that came with the phone? Presumably, using Linux would also solve this?
I'm actually interested in the heat generated by charging. I recently installed some navigation software and used it for the first time on Thursday. Obviously the screen was on constantly as was GPS. Because I only had around 25% charge when I began my journey, I was charging it continually from the moment I left the house. The sun was shining on the windscreen and very quickly the combination of the sun, continual charging and the draw on the battery from the display etc caused the battery temperature to climb to around 63 degrees C. A status message popped up and told me that charging had ceased because the temperature had become too high.
It's a very clever feature that the software recognises that the temperature has become too high and ceases charging but I'm looking to stop this from happening. I tried turning off wifi etc but this didn't make much difference.
Unfortunately, the cigarette lighter -> USB charger I have doesn't tell me how many mA it's providing. I just wondered whether using a car charger with a lower (or perhaps even higher) mA rating might cause less overheat? Otherwise I'm afraid my phone mightn't be usable as a navigation device.
Wierd, as my Logitech charger (don't know the amperage, around 1-2A I got fot the Performance MX) seems to be charging the phone quite faster than the included flimsy Samsung. (Up to the 90% mark, where it tapers off to trickle charging.)
Dude, that's awesome. You saved me some money with that... I was planning on buying another charger to see if it'll be better.
Good job, and thanks for doing that!
TormodMacleod said:
So are you saying that a driver upgrade would allow my phone to charge just as quickly from the computer as from the Samsung charger that came with the phone? Presumably, using Linux would also solve this?
I'm actually interested in the heat generated by charging.
...
It's a very clever feature that the software recognises that the temperature has become too high and ceases charging but I'm looking to stop this from happening. I tried turning off wifi etc but this didn't make much difference.
...
I just wondered whether using a car charger with a lower (or perhaps even higher) mA rating might cause less overheat? Otherwise I'm afraid my phone mightn't be usable as a navigation device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't worry about the heat. As you said yourself it has an internal cut-off. These cut-offs work before the device is damaged not after. High heat may reduce long term life but it's generally not an issue.
Much of the heat actually comes from the power conversion circuit at the top when charging and when the screen is on and not from the battery. While overseas I used my phone for about a month straight as a Mobile AP while on charge, now THAT generates a heck of a lot of heat and I had no ill effect after a month of daily usage for about 6 hours like this, so you should be fine.
Do NOT use an under powered car charger. At best you'll blow a fuse in it, at worst you can cause it to burn. Overloading a charger is not an effective way of limiting current. Not to mention that when overloading the voltage drops which may cause unexpected effects in the phone.
As for the USB thing, no Linux won't help. This isn't a windows issue it's a USB issue. USB2.0 ports provide 100mA of power UNLESS a device specific driver requests more power from the system. It would be a combination of a custom driver for the PC, and probably a change in the phone depending on how the phone's power circuit works (i.e. does the phone tell the power circuit it's plugged into the PC and limit the current?)
Sinotek said:
Dude, that's awesome. You saved me some money with that... I was planning on buying another charger to see if it'll be better.
Good job, and thanks for doing that!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome.
This was more for my own benefit really. Everything I know about electronics would lead to the conclusion of clever trickery, a potential fire hazard when using low power chargers, or that people weren't seeing right. It was driving me nuts not knowing.
I had Theo Same doubys. Thanks for testing. Appreciatie Theo effort made
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA App
there ARE differences between chargers.
for example:
with sgs stock charger [700mA] when i download from internet [HSDPA 7.2 Mb] and set brightness to maximum it is discharging instead of charging. the result is even worse with lower charger.
i am using 1200 mA charger from a Nokia N900 and it is doing the job very well.
some say that powerfull chargers shortens the battery life, but i do not care about that.
The data nor the theory back that up.
Suppose the phone did draw a variable current, what's to stop the resulting fire hazard of overloading the charger?
If I knew someone with an N900 I'd be happy to try it for you but given the results so far... actually I do have one more thing I can test.
Flashlight on to keep screen at 100% brightness, downloading JVP, and powered by a 30A !!! powersupply.
End result is it still uses 470mA.
There is nothing to back up the idea that different powerpacks make any difference, and plenty of logical theory as to why it would be a very bloody bad idea to blindly just start drawing power.
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garbz said:
Flashlight on to keep screen at 100% brightness, downloading JVP, and powered by a 30A !!! powersupply.
End result is it still uses 470mA.
There is nothing to back up the idea that different powerpacks make any difference, and plenty of logical theory as to why it would be a very bloody bad idea to blindly just start drawing power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ah, the old computer PSU-> lab power supply trick. Favorite of EE students everywhere
Extraordinary work, garbz.
Nice Job.
So I'll look for a 1A charger in order to get it full short and dirty ;-)
thanks for this my friend kept on telling me that I need a more ''powerful" charger than the one that came with my vibrant :/
Sorry to bump an old topic but thought it worth doing as this is a very good thread to answer the question about chargers. I have a Note which comes with a 1A charger but the lead is short, I need to use an adapter to fit the plug in (as it's EU and I'm in the UK) plus the charger makes a slight high frequency buzzing noise. My N900 charger which is 1200mA works fine (and has a longer lead, is silent and doesn't need an adapter) and I assumed the device would draw the current it needs but was then concerned by some people claiming that would damage the battery, this thread shows that is not the case.
John
There's an explanation here of why different chargers do indeed make a difference:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Usb#Power
see in particular the note on the Battery Charger Spec.
In particular. my own testing shows I can go from 500ma to 700mA charging current simply by changing a small connector in line between the 7Ahr battery I'm using to charge the phone, and the phone. That's due to the nature of the short on the data pins.
There are proprietary tweaks to this mechanism; e.g. iPhones use voltage signalling between the two data lines and ground to indicate various things to the device.
All of this is only for "hosts", i.e. chargers etc, that don't implement the USB protocol and so can't engage in the normal current negotation that occurs when connecting e.g. the device to a PC.
Yeah they to I was at my uncles place and I pluged the micro-USB for sgs and charged it. I tried moving the lockscreen but the touchscreen wasn't working
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA App
THank you for the Review!
thanks for all the info!
Related
Does anybody know a really working replacement charger for the Galaxy S?
I have tried different models but all are not recognized as original charger so the Galaxy is only charging with 500mA.
The Galaxy S does somehow check if it is an original charger and only than switches into charging mode.
You can easily verify this. Just connect your phone with the charger, open the task list. If you see the USB choices menu the phone is in PC mode and only charges with 500mA.
2000 mAh (2A) charger
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.25177
this if you like windshield mount
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.42602
or this if you like air vent mount (i tilt it horizontally, it's more secure and works better with SGS)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.37823
it actually can use both, vent and/or windshield
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So you use this charger and it switches the SGS to charging mode. That is good news. All chargers I tried only charged with 500mA alltough they were stated with 2000mA or 1200mA.
How long does it take to fully charge the SGS?
that's the one i use in my car, charging varies depending on use
on short drives it will keep your battery from draing (unlike the 500mAh ones)
on long drives like at least an hour or two can charge a few bars meanwhile keeping GPS on, Bluetooth On, 3G/H data On, Screen On
on long road trips the battery will be fully charged.
but if you were using a 500mAh your battery will be completely sucked dry, on 1000mAh it can keep everything running, but battery might not be at full
Does anyone know why the standard Samsung charger outputs so low? :S
I'm just wondering if they did that for a reason like the phone can't handle too much power
it's rather cost cutting, all phone chargers i've ever had from included items were always around 500mAh
The mains charger I use seems to work the same as my official one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300435855427
My car charger comes up with pc mode though which as you say probably means it isn't charging properly (I notice that the charge is about the same when I finish my journey as when I started if I use gps)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370391436219
Is there a way to tell how well it is charging? I'm guessing if it thinks it is connecting to pc then it won't charge properly
you can use a battery app to monitor the mAh in the battery
if it charges as you consume, then the mAh should keep going up
but if the mAh keeps going down, then the charger is obviously not providing enough power
badasschris said:
The mains charger I use seems to work the same as my official one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300435855427
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info.
What are the specifications of this charger (how many mA)?
badasschris said:
Is there a way to tell how well it is charging? I'm guessing if it thinks it is connecting to pc then it won't charge properly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately not really.
There is an widget (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=723217), but it is not working for the Galaxy.
yes can someone post a decent charger and car charger (preferably on ebay) that charges at a faster rate, the supplied usb cable takes forever to charge my i9000!
I use a mUSB car charger made by Rocketfish (Best Buy brand). Works well, doesn't show "USB Plugged". Was charging pretty quickly even though I had GPS on and Navigation running, which drains battery pretty quickly normally.
TDO said:
Does anybody know a really working replacement charger for the Galaxy S?
I have tried different models but all are not recognized as original charger so the Galaxy is only charging with 500mA.
The Galaxy S does somehow check if it is an original charger and only than switches into charging mode.
You can easily verify this. Just connect your phone with the charger, open the task list. If you see the USB choices menu the phone is in PC mode and only charges with 500mA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using the original charger on a US Vibrant (700mA) and I can still see the USB choices menu.
Is there any other way to check on how much current the Vibrant is using to charge? I have a 1A car and wall charger, but there is no way to tell if they are using 1A or not.
i'm using a max output:1.0A charger works fine. It is a power supply from my old phone which is an adapter with a USB port so i just plugin the galaxy's usb cable and charging happens very fast.
tommy34 said:
i'm using a max output:1.0A charger works fine. It is a power supply from my old phone which is an adapter with a USB port so i just plugin the galaxy's usb cable and charging happens very fast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you try this in your car with the screen on full brightness and running GPS software? Important to note because all of these chargers work fine when the phone is sleeping or even idling, but when you throw in full screen brightness, tax the cpu/gpu with software, and use the GPS and radios for triangulation for location data, thats when the power consumption overwhelms the charger.
There's some good information on measuring amperage usage of different chargers in this thread in the Vibrant forum:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=7704900&postcount=15
Apparently you can read the current charge your phone is pulling by going to this file on your phone:
/sys/class/power_supply/battery/batt_chg_current
So under the same load conditions (screen brightness, GPS enabled, GPS software running, approximately battery charge level) you should be able to compare how much amperage the phone is able to pull on any given charger.
AllGamer said:
that's the one i use in my car, charging varies depending on use
on short drives it will keep your battery from draing (unlike the 500mAh ones)
on long drives like at least an hour or two can charge a few bars meanwhile keeping GPS on, Bluetooth On, 3G/H data On, Screen On
on long road trips the battery will be fully charged.
but if you were using a 500mAh your battery will be completely sucked dry, on 1000mAh it can keep everything running, but battery might not be at full
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So is this with the 2000mah charger you linked?:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.25177
Could you give us some measured numbers, that would be so helpful!
Does anyone know if our phones will stop charging when the battery is full? Do we need chargers with IC chips or will the phone take care of it? I mentioned this in the vibrant forum, but my old dumphones required smart chargers as dumb quick chargers would keep charging away killing the battery, but my Dell Axim PDA was smart enough to shut off charging when full itself.
I'm thinking of getting the 2000mah charger linked previously, but I'm concerned because I haven't been able to determine if it has an IC chip in it, but I don't know if we even need that with our phones.
If we need smart chargers im considering this:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.40470
Someone in the reviews measured it at 1.1amps and noted it has a decent IC chip.
Android automatically stops charging if it THINKS the batter is full
see this topic
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=722862
it's more of a nuisance than a good safety feature
also in another topic we found that if your phone is bricked, it will not charge the battery, because there is no OS to handle the charging.
AllGamer said:
Android automatically stops charging if it THINKS the batter is full
see this topic
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=722862
it's more of a nuisance than a good safety feature
also in another topic we found that if your phone is bricked, it will not charge the battery, because there is no OS to handle the charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! Looks like the phone regulates charging itself, and works well enough so long as it doesnt get out of calibration (by you flashing the phone when not at 100% =D) Do you happen to know if it will continue to regulate and stop charging even when the phone is completely turned off? I guess the question is if the android system in charge of this still runs when the main OS is turned off.
Otherwise, for the purposes of our thread, looks like using a 2000mah quick car charger without a verified IC chip should be fine!
As far as i know the 2000mAh charger that I'm using has a build in IC chip (most car chargers now in day has one) as well, but it's hard to tell, unless we can remove the auto safety feature of Android in the SGS.
AllGamer said:
As far as i know the 2000mAh charger that I'm using has a build in IC chip (most car chargers now in day has one) as well, but it's hard to tell, unless we can remove the auto safety feature of Android in the SGS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well you could crack it open and see whats inside =P but I don't that is necessary since we're covered either way, our phones can regulate the charge regardless.
Thanks!
btw i would still LOVE it if you had a chance to see what value you see in /sys/class/power_supply/battery/batt_chg_current when using the 2000 mah charger.
A few days ago while driving home from work, the TB tells me that even though it is connected to a USB power source, it doesn't have enough juice to keep on going and that I should switch to AC power. I was rarely (if ever) using the AC adapter. I always plugged the phone into a USB port on my home/work computer or into the dual USB adapter I have in my car. I started charging with the AC adapter at night and noticed a significant improvement in battery life.
I can't really say that the power source was the key factor, since I was experimenting with kernels, ROMS, and SetCPU profiles/smartass governor on a pretty consistent basis. In any case, I'm pretty sure it made a big difference... something did, anyway... I can easily get through the day now.
Then I stumbled on a dual-USB-A to mini-USB cable from a 2.5" Antec HD enclosure and figured I'd give it a shot (with a mini->micro adapter). It was necessary for the enclosure when you tried to use a 7200 RPM drive because a single USB port didn't deliver enough power alone. I decided to plug in my old Droid and see if it worked. When it did, I crossed my fingers and plugged in the Thunderbolt. Seems to be running fine. I've been taking the cable with me between my car, home, and work computers and have noticed faster charge times, less of an immediate drop-off when disconnecting.
I found what appear to be the same cables online if anyone is interested in testing. They are made by StarTech and compusa.com apparently has the cheapest prices (~$4/ea). The part numbers are USB2HAUBY1 / USB2HAUBY3 / USB2HAUBY6 for the 1ft/3ft/6ft respectively. I'm wondering if anyone else could try my experiment w/a more stable platform (i.e., not changing ROMS/kernels/etc.). I figure now that the initial "I can't stop playing with this phone" phase has worn off, we should be able to measure the difference with more typical usage patterns.
FWIW, I have no intention of ever using a single USB-A to micro-USB cable to charge this thing again (except w/the AC adapter). Anyone charging via USB should definitely consider it.
LOL I just started a thread about this here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1022400 not 6 hours ago! Nice to know the cables would work. I figured if I ran two in paralell it might do the trick.
Weird, I've yet to have a cable that told me it was not strong enough.. Multiple cables used in my car (has a usb port), home and work computers. Guess I've gotten lucky.
thats interesting, i kno for sure that using a/c is by far the best solution as it lasts longer, stronger charge, and charges MUCH quicker, i usually only use regular usb as a last resort, but i think u made a pretty damn good discovery! im definitely looking into this
The chargers that came with the phone are 1Amp supplies... Standard USB is only .5Amp, so far 1Amp is the largest draw on a USB 2.0 standard... While when USB 3 hits, that will have higher current capacity than 2.0, so it looks as HTC has designed the phone for USB 3.0
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
I don't remember what the exact error message was, but I was at about 7% when I got to my car... I tried to use the phone for navigation and after a few minutes it told me that I needed to switch to AC power.
My thinking is that when the phone is running, active, and the screen is on, it is drawing too much power from the USB power source to allow the battery to fully recharge. This is probably why my experience with the battery has been abysmal. I was using a single USB cable plugged into my computer or a cigarette/USB car adapter 90% of the time.
But if the AC power supply pushes 1A and each USB port can push up to 500mA, the Y adapter should come pretty close to matching the performance of the AC adapter. I'd guess that AC would be the best option, but I'd prefer to have the USB connection w/the computer.
Sorry nerozehl / mods for not adding onto another thread, but I wanted to get the poll going to see how people are typically charging.
scottt732 said:
I don't remember what the exact error message was, but I was at about 7% when I got to my car... I tried to use the phone for navigation and after a few minutes it told me that I needed to switch to AC power.
My thinking is that when the phone is running, active, and the screen is on, it is drawing too much power from the USB power source to allow the battery to fully recharge. This is probably why my experience with the battery has been abysmal. I was using a single USB cable plugged into my computer or a cigarette/USB car adapter 90% of the time.
But if the AC power supply pushes 1A and each USB port can push up to 500mA, the Y adapter should come pretty close to matching the performance of the AC adapter. I'd guess that AC would be the best option, but I'd prefer to have the USB connection w/the computer.
Sorry nerozehl / mods for not adding onto another thread, but I wanted to get the poll going to see how people are typically charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like you have Power Save set to ON for the error message...
Due to my crappy battery life I use this method.
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ddgarcia05 said:
Due to my crappy battery life I use this method.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is that the new cold fusion charger I heard about?
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
EDD Skitz said:
Is that the new cold fusion charger I heard about?
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Two words. Flux Capacitor
You think that guy has any problems with his battery going dead???
LOL
Dnakaman said:
You think that guy has any problems with his battery going dead???
LOL
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what battery? it was destroyed just looking at that thing...
kierandill said:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Get it to 88 mph and you can go back in time!
kierandill said:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What the heck is a jiggawatt!!!
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
very often when using your car charger and navigation, the phone uses more battery than the car charger can replace, so the battery will drop even while plugged in charging. a imagine USB would be similar, since usb is 0.5 amps, while A/C is 1amp. i went to radio shack and got a 1.3 amp charger for my phone, and when plugged in in my car it pulls around 800mA during charging. so its just about close to good enough.
RogerPodacter said:
very often when using your car charger and navigation, the phone uses more battery than the car charger can replace, so the battery will drop even while plugged in charging. a imagine USB would be similar, since usb is 0.5 amps, while A/C is 1amp. i went to radio shack and got a 1.3 amp charger for my phone, and when plugged in in my car it pulls around 800mA during charging. so its just about close to good enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now you risk the overcharging/overheating...Keep an eye on that temp
scottt732 said:
I don't remember what the exact error message was, but I was at about 7% when I got to my car... I tried to use the phone for navigation and after a few minutes it told me that I needed to switch to AC power.
My thinking is that when the phone is running, active, and the screen is on, it is drawing too much power from the USB power source to allow the battery to fully recharge. This is probably why my experience with the battery has been abysmal. I was using a single USB cable plugged into my computer or a cigarette/USB car adapter 90% of the time.
But if the AC power supply pushes 1A and each USB port can push up to 500mA, the Y adapter should come pretty close to matching the performance of the AC adapter. I'd guess that AC would be the best option, but I'd prefer to have the USB connection w/the computer.
Sorry nerozehl / mods for not adding onto another thread, but I wanted to get the poll going to see how people are typically charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Turn off 4G and drop the screen brightness to 50% orless and the draw should be low enough for USB charging. If you are using a car adapter, get one of the high current ones that output 1A. You can get a nice widget like 'Battery monitor Widget' which will show you if your charger is keeping up or not. If the widget displays a value that is green, the charger output is exceeding the draw from the phone by the value shown in the widget.
magneticzero said:
Now you risk the overcharging/overheating...Keep an eye on that temp
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No need to worry, battery only draws what power it needs, anything higher just doesn't get pulled. Been using it a year now
EDD Skitz said:
What the heck is a jiggawatt!!!
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it is the energy produced every time jay-z opens his mouth
Hi everyone,
So I bought a Belkin 2.1A car charger from ebay for my Nexus 5 like this one:
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"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
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"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
But during my various car trips using Google Maps sat nav I've noticed that the battery percentage was going down rather than up. I was very suprised as I thought that 2.1A would be enough to handle the battery consumption while also charging the device. After checking the stock AC charger I have noticed it's only rated for 1.2A, so the car charger charging problem surely must be another I thought.
By looking on the internet I've read that people were having charging issues because the device was recognizing the charger as an USB port so charging was limited to only 0.5A.
After a bit of further searching I found that the stock AC charger uses a shorted circuit on the data pins to make the phone recognize it as an AC charger. I went back to the car and tried the stock cable on the Belkin charger and in Settings->Battery it showed Charging (USB). Ok I said, then this must be the problem, I ended up building my own "Fast charge" cable by shorting the data wires on the Micro USB side. Trying again this time the phone showed as Charging (AC). I since tried the charger but without any success, the percentage was still going down while in use.
Today, I went into the Electronic lab of my University, and I've tried to check the Amps that were going through the phone (I have seen some videos on youtube of apps that show charging amps, but they all looked very wrong, like 8Amps or more). I believe I have finally found the reason of the slow charging or not charging:
The charging current is only 0.2A, far less than an USB port, and far far less of what is required to charge the phone wile the sat nav is going. I have tried both fast charge and stock usb cables but it still displayed the same exact current.
I don't know what to do next? Have any of you had any success in charging while using the sat nav (and 3g, bluetooth, nfc, ecc)?
Please forgive me if I am not understanding your post.
iltrevi said:
The charging current is only 0.2A...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Because it's defective?
iltrevi said:
I have tried both fast charge and stock usb cables...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What about a different charger?
iltrevi said:
Have any of you had any success in charging while using the sat nav (and 3g, bluetooth, nfc, ecc)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have used several different chargers without issue.
PhilipTD said:
Please forgive me if I am not understanding your post.
Because it's defective?
What about a different charger?
I have used several different chargers without issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could be the charger that is detective, but after all thats what im trying to find out, or is it a compatibility issue with nexus 5? If the charger was defective wouldn't it be not charging at all?
Different charger? I don't have a different charger, that's why I bought this one, why shouldnt this be working if there's stated 2.1amp
OK thanks for advice, but I'd like to get this working, have you had any experience with this charger as well?
Never used that charger.
A defective charger may very well be slow, rather than dead.
I just thought that it might be a good idea to test a friend's charger in your car in order to eliminate the possibility that the socket/feed is malfunctioning. Or, even better, would be to use a current tester on the socket.
Ma, che ne so?
I'm using exactly the same Belkin charger in my Ford and it works properly while navigation is on. However, I don't charge and keep navigating frequently so can't shed more light on this!
I have had quite a few car-chargers (mostly cheap ones) , and the amount of current they provide compared to what they promised varies alot.
Haven't tried the belkin one, as I needed more than 1 usb port.
Currently i'm using
...://dx.com/p/star-go-st-06-aircraft-shaped-5v-4100ma-usb-4-port-car-charger-black-12-24v-290123#.UxSYQ3VdWlg
And it charges my nexus 5 with screen always on and my Samsung tab 3 running sygic.
(even need 10 posts for a link...)
I've been testing chargers extensively. What I have seen is actually scary.
The worst one was sold on ebay and was marked as a 3.1A capable device. When I hooked it up to a 12V source and connected the output to a scope I saw a triangle like DC output varying between 4.7 and 5.7Volts which is out of USB specs, meaning could damage your device.
The 2 other ones that I own are a lot better after modifying capacitors etc. but I gave up on that front.
I also tested a Belkin marked one that was supposed to be able to provide 1A but it only managed 0.8A and after 15min it died. Fake, no doubt about it.
Since I had a cigarette lighter plug in my drawer I made my own charger that is very DC clean and can provide more than enough juice to charge.
I use these modules http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7V-24V-to..._Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item4179d0059e
You can connect the 2 middle pins and my N5 draws 1.4A peak.
To be sure there is a 2A fuse in the cigarette lighter plug and a Transient-voltage-suppression diode connected over the 5V USB output so in case the convertor goes belly up and goes to 12V the 5.8V diode will kill the fuse in an instant.
That convertor is extreemly clean stable and has a very high efficiency so it will not even get close to getting warm when charging high speed.
Some people spend a fortune on cases and screen protectors but want the cheapest possible 12V to USB. I made this for like 6€ or $9 and I guarantee you nothing comes close that is on the market.
lukesan said:
To be sure there is a 2A fuse in the cigarette lighter plug and a Transient-voltage-suppression diode connected over the 5V USB output so in case the convertor goes belly up and goes to 12V the 5.8V diode will kill the fuse in an instant.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you put the 2A fuse in the car fusebox? or between the jack and your converter? Had not thought about making one myself
bakxsteen said:
Did you put the 2A fuse in the car fusebox? or between the jack and your converter? Had not thought about making one myself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a 2A fast (snelle ) fuse in that cigarette lighter plugin itself. So the module is capable of delivering 3A constant at 5.1V. Since the N5 nor a Note 3 will go above 2A charging, and the efficiency is >85%, I am secure on that front.
Since I see you are from Delft there should be an action shop in your area. They sell 2 port 2.1A capable car chargers (black and white) for like 3€ which are actually not bad at all. I only insist on those diodes that you can buy on ebay. They cost a couple of € but rather that than smoke out of your device.
I have about 8 of those modules now since they are so universal.
A couple of examples. An old laptop charger 15V 6A, cut the connector and hooked up the modules got all my usb devices charged in Africa.
1 is hooked up to a RC helicopter batt that is mounted on my bike and delivers around 11.1V and then goes to that module so I can charge and use GPS on the bike for hours.
Cheers for the info, coincidentally I have been looking for a way to power my raspberry pi in my 12-volt speaker set. This will make that a lot easier as well.
lukesan said:
I've been testing chargers extensively. What I have seen is actually scary.
The worst one was sold on ebay and was marked as a 3.1A capable device. When I hooked it up to a 12V source and connected the output to a scope I saw a triangle like DC output varying between 4.7 and 5.7Volts which is out of USB specs, meaning could damage your device.
The 2 other ones that I own are a lot better after modifying capacitors etc. but I gave up on that front.
I also tested a Belkin marked one that was supposed to be able to provide 1A but it only managed 0.8A and after 15min it died. Fake, no doubt about it.
Since I had a cigarette lighter plug in my drawer I made my own charger that is very DC clean and can provide more than enough juice to charge.
I use these modules http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7V-24V-to..._Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item4179d0059e
You can connect the 2 middle pins and my N5 draws 1.4A peak.
To be sure there is a 2A fuse in the cigarette lighter plug and a Transient-voltage-suppression diode connected over the 5V USB output so in case the convertor goes belly up and goes to 12V the 5.8V diode will kill the fuse in an instant.
That convertor is extreemly clean stable and has a very high efficiency so it will not even get close to getting warm when charging high speed.
Some people spend a fortune on cases and screen protectors but want the cheapest possible 12V to USB. I made this for like 6€ or $9 and I guarantee you nothing comes close that is on the market.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very interesting! Can you post some picture of the actual charger you made? How did you add the transient voltage suppression diode?
Btw I will try to short the data pins also on the USB side and see if it makes any difference, apparently things like this one short both sides: http://www.amazon.co.uk/PortaPow-Fa...8&qid=1393861403&sr=8-12&keywords=fast+charge
iltrevi said:
Very interesting! Can you post some picture of the actual charger you made? How did you add the transient voltage suppression diode?
Btw I will try to short the data pins also on the USB side and see if it makes any difference, apparently things like this one short both sides:
HTML:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/PortaPow-Fast-Charger-iPhone-Blackberry/dp/B00GC4AJOU/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1393861403&sr=8-12&keywords=fast+charge
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Difficult to show since it is sort of build in the car.
The module is plug and play. Hook up + and - (screwdriver thing so no soldering required) and the USB connector is already on the pcb board. Extreemly easy. Plug and play.
The diode is not big at all and is soldered on the back of the pcb. There are soldering points.
After that mod, diode and shorten data leads, I use that yellowish heat resistant tape around the pcb so it does not touch any metal parts or shorten anything. I've been using it in Arizona summer weather conditions and it is perfect.
lukesan said:
Difficult to show since it is sort of build in the car.
The module is plug and play. Hook up + and - (screwdriver thing so no soldering required) and the USB connector is already on the pcb board. Extreemly easy. Plug and play.
The diode is not big at all and is soldered on the back of the pcb. There are soldering points.
After that mod, diode and shorten data leads, I use that yellowish heat resistant tape around the pcb so it does not touch any metal parts or shorten anything. I've been using it in Arizona summer weather conditions and it is perfect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, thanks. I think if I can't get another car socket charger to work this will be the path I will take.
Anyway I just tried shorting the USB side to see if this made any difference to the Belkin charger but it looks like nothing changed. I also tried shorting both data sides all together but that didn't change things either. I'm guessing the charger could be actually defective, I will try to get a replacement and see if that works better.
Why doesn't Google makes it own car charger and avoids all this messing about to find one that works.
iltrevi said:
Why doesn't Google makes it own car charger and avoids all this messing about to find one that works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You would think it would be in their interest as well, I imaging a lot of people will blame the phone.
bakxsteen said:
You would think it would be in their interest as well, I imaging a lot of people will blame the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is another nice tool that I use. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Portabl...uter_Power_Supply_Testers&hash=item485a80ba76
You don't see if the output is clean but you get a good view on what is going on and the Voltage and Current readout is pretty accurate.
Just added 2 pics. This one I use when cycling. You can see an added resistor but it has no use since it ups the Voltage to 5.2V (just a test thing). On the back you can see that the data lines are connected and that special diode is soldered over the 5V pins.
The reason why this one isn't fully insulated with tape is that this one is my test one so I leave it open to test.
No need to fully insulate it since it goes in a weatherproof non conductive bag with the battery.
bakxsteen said:
Cheers for the info, coincidentally I have been looking for a way to power my raspberry pi in my 12-volt speaker set. This will make that a lot easier as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol, actually I have one of these modules connected to my Harmon Cardon speakers which are connected to my flatscreen.
My Raspberry is on 24/7 for like 10 months now. No stability, heat issues at all.
Just another thing which is extremely important is the USB cable itself. I've seen some really strange things.
For example now I am testing an Anker 40W 5-port USB charger that I bought on Amazon. It features 'smart' technology to see what is connected and then place everything in quick charge.
I found the idea super, but they've already had to refund me after a couple of tests.
The thing is right in front of me now and I have that USB tester thing to measure current and 3 different cables. 1 HTC, 1 from a Jawbone headset and a Sony one. The original cable is at home.
Ok so the phone was at 60% batt which means it should still charge at full speed if possible. The HTC and Jawbone cable on the Anker did not pass 0.8A and the Sony (looking at it now) 0.92A. Voltage seems like 5.08V which is measured at the adapter and not the phone.
So 1 get that USB tool thing for a couple of € $ and actually see what is happening instead of guessing. I am really happy with it.
If you want me to do any tests of have questions feel free to ask. We, and I, can always learn from each other and there is no such thing as a stupid question to me.
lukesan said:
Just another thing which is extremely important is the USB cable itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe USB cables and USB cables impendance as I've read somewhere are important only when charging the device with the data pins "enabled". As for Galaxy SI and SII chargers which used a fixed micro usb charging cable which was very thin, I belive that once data pins are shorted it doesn't matter anymore if you are using a very thick top quality cable or a ebay chinese cable, the phone will always pull as the same current.
Anyone correct me if I'm wrong.
iltrevi said:
I believe USB cables and USB cables impendance as I've read somewhere are important only when charging the device with the data pins "enabled". As for Galaxy SI and SII chargers which used a fixed micro usb charging cable which was very thin, I belive that once data pins are shorted it doesn't matter anymore if you are using a very thick top quality cable or a ebay chinese cable, the phone will always pull as the same current.
Anyone correct me if I'm wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I also did some tests on that front. Supplying 5V and putting a resistor 5.1 Ohm on the other side so it draws approx 1 Amp. It's very scary to see some cables go flat on their belly.
I had one which measured about 4.3V with that resistor on the other side, so massive loss in the cable and/or connector. If you take into account that the charging circuit efficiency is also not 100% it can have a big effect on the charging speed. Remember these batts at 100% charge are at 4.2V.
The S1 charges at about 0.65A and an S2 at 0.7A max (limited by the charging circuit) so using these devices as GPS in the car is tricky since screen and gps app on .... and you are at approx these values.
I was thinking about buying my own connectors and soldering 2 'thicker' cables to the connectors. You can shortcut the data-lines on the micro usb so no harm done when plugging into a pc. But how far do I go in this I ask myself.
Resurrecting this thread because I'm having a similar issue, I have a Belkin 2.1Amp charger that's capable of charging an iPad at 2.1 amp (and I've tested it in the past and it charges appropriately, and is able to charge an iPhone very rapidly as well) as well as another 1A USB charger and the Nexus 5 barely charges with either-it charges very slowly even when I have GPS shut off-I've charged it for an hour before and it'll maybe get 10% which is absurd. It's pretty clear that whatever high-amp pinning they have is meant more for iPads and the Nexus 5 isn't seeing these chargers as high speed chargers, does anybody know of a charger where they've had good success with the Nexus 5 to rapidly charge it?
The other night I put my note pro on the charger with around 28% battery. After 8+ hours charging it was only at like 90%. I have been noticing pretty much every time it charges. Is there something that I am missing? I am rooted, but don't mess around with much on this tablet simply because it doesn't need much tweaking. I am using an official Samsung USB 3.0 charger with a 3ft cable. So no non-standard overly long aftermarket cable or anything either.
I am thinking of doing a factory wipe on it, maybe that could help. Hope there isn't a physical issue with it because I could see Samsung denying me because of tripped Knox...
Thanks.
Whats your standby battery drain like? If you're seeing significant drain while not charging this might be an indication of something running in the background that's reducing your charge rate too. Is charging speed improved if the tablet is powered down?
As a point of reference using GSAM Battery Monitor I see a charge rate of about 1200ma at idle with screen brightness low. You may want to try a battery monitor app such as this, perhaps it will help pinpoint the issue.
Could be the charger itself . . .
You can also go Settings - General - Bttery and tap that grey bar (where reads how long you have been running since last charge)
Then check Awake.. If there is blue bar even when your device has been longer time without any using, it tells that some app or something is not letting the device go to sleep --> which drains battery.
Have you tried your original USB cable? The stock cable is longer than 3ft
Sent from my SM-P900 using Tapatalk
Did you charge on Power Saving mode? I think, that option slow down charging
Did you turn off all running settings? (WiFi, GPS, Sync). Did you Greenify all Apps?
muzzy996 said:
Whats your standby battery drain like? If you're seeing significant drain while not charging this might be an indication of something running in the background that's reducing your charge rate too. Is charging speed improved if the tablet is powered down?
As a point of reference using GSAM Battery Monitor I see a charge rate of about 1200ma at idle with screen brightness low. You may want to try a battery monitor app such as this, perhaps it will help pinpoint the issue.
Could be the charger itself . . .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dodo99x said:
Have you tried your original USB cable? The stock cable is longer than 3ft
Sent from my SM-P900 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for pointing me to this app. I installed and will take a look at what my tablet is doing. Seems like I have been getting much lower "Screen on" times lately too. I don't recall installing anything that would do something to drain.
As for the charger, I bought the tablet from Amazon as open box. It was supposed to come with a charger but didn't. They gave me a partial refund and I bought a charger on ebay with the same model number as the stock one but it only came with a 3ft cable. I wouldn't think having a shorter cable would make a difference...
mozillaopera said:
Did you charge on Power Saving mode? I think, that option slow down charging
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Never use power saving...
ShadowLea said:
Did you turn off all running settings? (WiFi, GPS, Sync). Did you Greenify all Apps?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never turn off settings while charging. I don't feel that you should need to. I generally keep GPS off all the time anyway, I have a phone for Maps!
Thanks for the replies all! I will report back on what I find.
You likely have an application causing drain and GSAM should help you figure that out.
In addition I would suspect the charger; check the voltage and see if it's rated for 5.3V at 2.0 amps.
alias747 said:
I never turn off settings while charging. I don't feel that you should need to. I generally keep GPS off all the time anyway, I have a phone for Maps!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Keep in mind that turning off WiFi speeds up the charging by about 70%. And since we're talking about a device with 9500mAh...
It's fine that you feel one should not be required to do so. To each their own. Physics, however, has no interest in 'feelings' and what people think should happen. Turning off a service that uses a lot of power means it'll stop draining a large percentage of the feeded charge. Elementary physics. (Just like how a cup is filled faster if you stop drinking from it whilst filling it.)
muzzy996 said:
You likely have an application causing drain and GSAM should help you figure that out.
In addition I would suspect the charger; check the voltage and see if it's rated for 5.3V at 2.0 amps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The charger that I have is model number: EP-TA10JWS
The output is rated for 5.3V and 2.0A.
I suppose there is a potential that I got a bum charger, or its a very sophisticated knock off. But the labeling all looks very legit and identical to my wifes Note 10.1 2014 charger.
ShadowLea said:
Keep in mind that turning off WiFi speeds up the charging by about 70%. And since we're talking about a device with 9500mAh...
It's fine that you feel one should not be required to do so. To each their own. Physics, however, has no interest in 'feelings' and what people think should happen. Turning off a service that uses a lot of power means it'll stop draining a large percentage of the feeded charge. Elementary physics. (Just like how a cup is filled faster if you stop drinking from it whilst filling it.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So last night I tested and I TURNED OFF my tablet completely to charge. I think I had about 18% left when I put it on the charger and when I woke up about 7 hours later and turned it back on, it was at 91%. Does this sound even remotely close?
I also tested last night plugging in my charger and turning everything on the tablet off, WiFi, screen brightness all the way down, closed all open apps etc... In GSAM Battery Monitor my input was only like +800 mA. @muzzy996 you have 1200mA??? Seems like the issue must be the charger in light of my testing...
Another thing I tested though was using my wife's Note 10.1 2014 charger this morning. I believe it has the same output (5.3V / 2.0A) but I used the USB 2.0 cable that is included with it. I was only at like 650mA when charging. I think I will have to track down another charger and see if it makes a difference...
Thanks again for all the replies.
I believe there is a defect in the charging software or hardware. I used several iPad 2 car chargers rated for at least 10 watts. (5.2Volts x 2Amps) They take 5x longer to charge than the iPad. Talk about proprietary hardware/software.
The OEM charger EP-TA10JBE is rated at 5.3Volts x 2Amps. The voltage loss in the 4Ft cable supplied must be at least .1 volts, so I do not understand that the voltage difference should cause the charging rate to slow to a trickle.
I'm going to try this.
I'm having the same problem and I read the following in another thread. I'll let you know if it works for me. My charging time is not quite as slow as yours, but it's still slower than it was when I first opened the box and I've only had it less than 2 weeks.
"had the same problem after updating to 4.4.2. It only charged when off. When the device was on, it mentioned 'not charging' in the battery status, but in fact it did charge very slowly when the device was not in use, about 5% per hour.
Also when used, the battery was draining more quickly than before the upgrade.
This solved it for me:
- reboot in recovery mode (hold volume up, button and power while booting)
- clear cache partition
- reboot.
Looks like something in the cache is causing the system to consume (almost) more power than is supplied by the adapter..."
Working better
After clearing the system cache, the charge speed went up to about 22% per hour with the tablet shut off. Seems to be huge improvement in my case. I used the cable that came in the box with tablet.
The standard note 12.2 charger: EP-TA10JWS, The output is rated for 5.3V and 2.0A.
My Galaxy Note Edge has fast charging and regular charging capability. 2 outputs; 9.0V - 1.67A or 5.0V - 2.0A
Has anyone tried this/a fast charger with the note 12.2 ? Will it work ?
Probably not as it doesn't have the fast charging capability, but worth asking the tech savvy people out there.
Besides for travelling purposes it would be great just to carry one charger instead of 2.
globalgpj said:
The standard note 12.2 charger: EP-TA10JWS, The output is rated for 5.3V and 2.0A.
My Galaxy Note Edge has fast charging and regular charging capability. 2 outputs; 9.0V - 1.67A or 5.0V - 2.0A
Has anyone tried this/a fast charger with the note 12.2 ? Will it work ?
Probably not as it doesn't have the fast charging capability, but worth asking the tech savvy people out there.
Besides for travelling purposes it would be great just to carry one charger instead of 2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Correct it will not fast charge, it needs both the fast charging supporting device and charger to work.
muzzy996 said:
Correct it will fast charge, it needs both the fast charging supporting device and charger to work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you mean, "will not"?
globalgpj said:
Did you mean, "will not"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry yes, corrected.
Dont forget it has a 9500mAh battery. The Note 3 has 3200mAh and charges from 0 to 100 in 90 minutes. So you'll always be looking at at least 4-5 hours.
If you leave your connections(Wifi, gps, mobile data, etx), sync and apps running, don't complain that it takes ages to charge.
Fast Charge pre-S6 is Qualcomm tech. The new Exynos chips support their own Fast Charge, but that doesn't apply to the old Exynos devices.
The Snapdragon NotePro's have Qualcomm Fast charge. (Which is not the same as the one in the S6)
The Exynos devices do not. So the P900 will always be slower in charging than the P905.
If you have a p900 and it's slow to charge, that's why.
globalgpj said:
The standard note 12.2 charger: EP-TA10JWS, The output is rated for 5.3V and 2.0A.
My Galaxy Note Edge has fast charging and regular charging capability. 2 outputs; 9.0V - 1.67A or 5.0V - 2.0A
Has anyone tried this/a fast charger with the note 12.2 ? Will it work ?
Probably not as it doesn't have the fast charging capability, but worth asking the tech savvy people out there.
Besides for travelling purposes it would be great just to carry one charger instead of 2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried mine with a 15V charger from my TF700T, and it didn't make any difference.
You can use the Note Edge charger, it also supplies normal levels for ordinary charging. I often use my Note 3 charger.
Sent From My Samsung Galaxy Note 3 N9005 Using Tapatalk
ShadowLea said:
You can use the Note Edge charger, it also supplies normal levels for ordinary charging. I often use my Note 3 charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know the output of your charger but the correct one should have 5.3 Volts, 2 Amps output. Using other chargers which has lower output such as 1 Amp will cause a longer time to charge.
In order to verify which one is at fault, everyone should have this tool, no more guessing when you can see the voltage and charging current .
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...TRS0&_nkw=usb+voltage+current+tester&_sacat=0
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You should swap one by one, using a known working charger and cable to verify which one is the source of problem. Start in order: charger, USB cable, USB port until problem solved.
If the reading is not 5.3 V, 1.7A, something is wrong with your charger, USB cable. or USB charging port ( new one is only around $12 ). When near full charged, current should be under 1 Amp.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Gal...228?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item234b3e01b4
Beut said:
I don't know the output of your charger but the correct one should have 5.3 Volts, 2 Amps output. Using other chargers which has lower output such as 1 Amp will cause a longer time to charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Note 3, TabPro and NotePro chargers are identical. They have literally the same EAN and product code. The only thing that varies is the cable.
I don't have any 1A chargers anymore, they're useless to me these days. Even all my car chargers are 2.1A.
Hello all,
! Use this guide at your own risk. I am not responsible for damage to your equipment! You have been warned. Consult a electronics expert if you are not sure!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use my phone a lot, Wifi, game, and the battery is drained fast! I was looking for a solution.
First I used a powerbank 2600 mAh, but that you loose a lot of energy by charging. And it's not practical unless you buy a big powerbank.
A disadvantage is that powerbank will last a limited amount of charge cycles. I ususally use my phone al ot when I am at home.
When I was surfing on the internet I found a person who connected a other brand phone onto a lab power supply and it worked.
So I looked and bought a cheap Basetech BT-153, a set of 4 mm cable set, which includes a pair testing cables with a grapling hook in it.
First you turn the powerdupply on, and set the voltage to the same battery voltage as it's written on yours.
My S6312 has a battery voltage of 3.7V (EB464358VU). So I turn the voltage on the powersupply onto 3.7V. The current (mAh) turning knob does nothing. The current you cannot set at all.
Your phone will draw any current it requires. That's why in most cases you can use a powersupply with the correct voltage , but higher current. Your phone draws a current as it needs. As far as I know off this is in the most cases. Correct me if I am wrong.
Turn the powersupply off before you try to connect the testing probes with their hooks onto your phone. You don't want to short circuit anything.
That can cause malfunction!
I connected the red to plus (+) and the black one to minus (-). You can see which connector is plus or minus on the battery.
The middle one is used to get battery status as I have read. The middle one I did not use. Be carefull to connect plus and minus right!
After connecting the phone will give a warning that the battery is extremely low and that you soulf connect to a powersuppy. Ignore it.
I tried to power my phone by USB only, but that does not work. You have to connect power throught the battery connectors as far as I know.
I saw on youtube somewhere that a guy or girl made a wooden battery shape and placed the contacts onto it. That way you can easily switch between powersupply and battery.
Smart ! :good:
I bought the following items:
http://www.rapidonline.com/test-measurement/voltcraft-ms-6-test-probe-set-51-51631
http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/393647/Basetech-BT-153-1-Output-Variable-DC-Power-Supply-Bench
The phone shuts itself down after a while.
I tried connecting the usb cable to give the phone power. But it keeps saying that the battery is removed.
and shuts itself off. Is there a way to override the missing battery in the software? Is there a app that uses root permissions to override that?
If there is , then anyone could use an external powersource without battery.
Anyone?
Installing DisableCriticalBatteryshutdiwn module of the Exposed framework..
REsults: It still shuts down. Emailed Xposed for assistance , hope they have a solution.
Closer to the solution!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2113843
Solder a resistor between the battery minus and the middle pin of the battery.
I used a 1K ohm resistor, that translates to a 4-5% battery charge....
Then I tried a 10K ohm. The battery charge starts at 6% and goes up! How odd?!
But everything works.... Maybe I made an mistake with the resistor value.
http://www.minco.com/Sensors-and-Instruments/Support-and-Tools/Thermistor-Resistance-Table
As the following webpage tells, a copper thermistor, I guess Samsung uses copper resistors, the value is between 5.128 ~ 19.116 ohm.
That could be an explanation that my 1K and 10K ohm resistors are causing my dummy battery is not working properly.
Then I got a warning message to connect my charger. Then I connected my usb connector and no warnings anylonger!
Going to find a better value for the resitor.
I don't have a 220 ohm resistor in my stock. But I do have several 330 ohm. If you connect 2 resistors of 330 ohm in parallel, the replacement resistor (Rv) will be lower than 330.
If you calculate it, it will result in a replacement value of 165 ohm. Link to an online calculator: http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-paralresist.htm
The phone still gives the indication that the battery is only 1% charged and starts charging. The phone shuts itself down after about a minute.
So now the issue is: How to fool the phone that "battery " is full?
I don't own the S6312 any longer. Gave it to a friend who needed. I guess it would work. But alas I cannot verify.
I just started a 2nd try to power my samsung phone without a battery.
But this 2nd try I am going to use a defect battery. Disamantle it and use the electronics of the battery to mimic the original.
Goto: http://forum.xda-developers.com/gen...-battery-2-t2941436/post56779273#post56779273
Edit: The critical power module of the Xposed framework was installed, but not enabled! Shame I cannot test.... Even if you enable it, don't forget to reboot to make it functional!
I'm using an old Samsung GIO (S5660) without a battery, powered through the USB connector.
It requires:
1) disassembling the phone and soldering a wire between the USB power connector to the battery + connector. There's a nice detailed video on youtube that walks through the phone teardown.
2) "special" boot procedure
The soldering part will probably dissuade most people from attempting this as you will need a decent soldering iron + a bit of electronics/soldering experience and a steady hand to solder the wire to the USB connector.
Here's a picture of the wire soldered to the +5V USB pin:
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The wire gets routed through the board where it gets soldered to the +5V battery terminal (unfortunately I don't have a pic of the solder connection to the battery terminal):
Prior to doing this mod, I just connected a 5V source to the battery terminals and the phone powered up fine.
I figured it'd be way cleaner to just tap the 5V power from the USB connector rather than add some other wiring/connector, so I went ahead with this soldering mod.
However, after making the soldering connection the phone wouldn't boot! It would show a battery icon briefly and then shut off.
So I figured there must be some circuitry on the phone that detects that the USB power is connected to the battery terminals but there's no battery there.
Anyways, I stumbled upon the trick "special" boot procedure -- basically boot to recovery (on the GIO, hold HOME key while powering up). From the recovery menu select reboot, and the phone boots up!
I'm using this phone as a tabletop clock and baby monitor receiver:
A nice way to make use of a device that would otherwise be tossed.
Not sure whether this would work for other Samsung phone models...
chihwahli said:
I don't own the S6312 any longer. Gave it to a friend who needed. I guess it would work. But alas I cannot verify.
I just started a 2nd try to power my samsung phone without a battery.
But this 2nd try I am going to use a defect battery. Disamantle it and use the electronics of the battery to mimic the original.
Goto: http://forum.xda-developers.com/gen...-battery-2-t2941436/post56779273#post56779273
Edit: The critical power module of the Xposed framework was installed, but not enabled! Shame I cannot test.... Even if you enable it, don't forget to reboot to make it functional!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
USB takes 5V and the battery terminal gives 3.3V. Joining these two is going to damage the power IC..
The whole concept does not make sense. Why not plug in the battery and keep the USB charger cable attached, so the battery keeps 100% charge?
Mobile repair technicians use external voltage booster device to power on mobile phones without battery, but its only for a short time.
It would be nice to able to power the phone without the battery when you play a game for 1-2 hours, my phone a Samsung note 3's battery is about 45% charge. That means recharging every day. Since Li-ion batteries last about 500 charge cycles. It does not take long before you need to buy a new one.
Is it a lot of money? No, but its senseless to play on battery if you can play by using an AC adapter.
That's much more efficient., cost effective, and less trash, thus better for the environment.
How many normal / rechargeable batteries get thrown away to be recycled every year? A lot!
Recycling is good, but itś better if you could prevent it. Recycling itself uses a lot of energy and water as well.
You would be surprised what amounts of energy and water that are required to separate trash and re-use it.
It's better to prevent creating more and more trash....
Samsung?? Apple?? Anyone?? A phone-dock or cable that can run a smartphone without battery please!!!!
Well, that is one product I would really like to have! Sell it to me! I have my cash ready =) Hit me!
Hmmm, going to try that later.... thanks.
AlbertDude said:
I'm using an old Samsung GIO (S5660) without a battery, powered through the USB connector.
It requires:
1) disassembling the phone and soldering a wire between the USB power connector to the battery + connector. There's a nice detailed video on youtube that walks through the phone teardown.
2) "special" boot procedure
The soldering part will probably dissuade most people from attempting this as you will need a decent soldering iron + a bit of electronics/soldering experience and a steady hand to solder the wire to the USB connector.
Here's a picture of the wire soldered to the +5V USB pin:
The wire gets routed through the board where it gets soldered to the +5V battery terminal (unfortunately I don't have a pic of the solder connection to the battery terminal):
Prior to doing this mod, I just connected a 5V source to the battery terminals and the phone powered up fine.
I figured it'd be way cleaner to just tap the 5V power from the USB connector rather than add some other wiring/connector, so I went ahead with this soldering mod.
However, after making the soldering connection the phone wouldn't boot! It would show a battery icon briefly and then shut off.
So I figured there must be some circuitry on the phone that detects that the USB power is connected to the battery terminals but there's no battery there.
Anyways, I stumbled upon the trick "special" boot procedure -- basically boot to recovery (on the GIO, hold HOME key while powering up). From the recovery menu select reboot, and the phone boots up!
I'm using this phone as a tabletop clock and baby monitor receiver:
A nice way to make use of a device that would otherwise be tossed.
Not sure whether this would work for other Samsung phone models...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By keeping the smartphone, with battery attached to the charger. The battery life is going to shortened. Some people say that keeping the battery charge between 40% and 80% is optimal. Charging to 100% shortens battery life. Battery guides from various websites tell that. But if this is true for every kind of li-ion battery I wonder.
Attaching USB 5.0v to the battery contact directly is risky, damage is possible.
I am not sure how much extra voltage is circuit can take without going over it's limit. It might cause the electronics to work less long due to higher voltage. As in the formula: U= I x R
U = voltage
I = current
R = resistance
With higher voltage, the current will increase: I = U / R.
For instance:
i = 5 / 100 = 0.05 A = 50mA
i = 3,3 / 100 = 0,033 = 33 mA
The higher current will cause diverse electrical components to have a higher voltage, some components are made for a specific voltage. Using a higher voltage could result in damage. It's better not to take a chance...
sudeshkmr said:
USB takes 5V and the battery terminal gives 3.3V. Joining these two is going to damage the power IC..
The whole concept does not make sense. Why not plug in the battery and keep the USB charger cable attached, so the battery keeps 100% charge?
Mobile repair technicians use external voltage booster device to power on mobile phones without battery, but its only for a short time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First you have to look for the voltage output your battery is giving. All batteries give different voltage output but its around 3.3V mostly. Then use a simple voltage regulator to drop-down the voltage. For example if your battery is giving 3.3 V output. then you can use LM7833 circuit for converting 5V to 3.3V.
IIRC, a fully charged lithium-ion battery has an output voltage of 4.2 V, fully discharged around 3.5? V
So the device most likely regulates the voltage from the battery anyways.
If you have no need for the device to be portable (as I said, I'm using it as a desktop clock and baby monitor) and you no longer have a battery (mine started bulging so it was time to throw it away...) then it's nice to be able use the device without having to buy a new battery.
Been running over a month with no overheating or other related problems.
sudeshkmr said:
USB takes 5V and the battery terminal gives 3.3V. Joining these two is going to damage the power IC..
The whole concept does not make sense. Why not plug in the battery and keep the USB charger cable attached, so the battery keeps 100% charge?
Mobile repair technicians use external voltage booster device to power on mobile phones without battery, but its only for a short time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is a nice idea to lower the voltage from 5V to any voltage required.
But the problem I face is, is how to fool any 3 pin Samsung battery that there is a battery attached??
I have not tried the trick by connecting the micro USB 5V, then through a voltage lowering circuit like yours, and attach it to the battery pins of my phone. Then attack micro USB, and see if it works.
I wonder if that is safe to try.
I'd expect the device to regulate the voltage from the battery terminals so it's overkill to add another regulator.
If you're worried about the voltage being too high, just insert one or two (depending on your level of worry) forward biased diodes to drop the voltage by ~0.7 V or ~1.4 V.
I'm comfortable with leaving it at 5V....
sudeshkmr said:
First you have to look for the voltage output your battery is giving. All batteries give different voltage output but its around 3.3V mostly. Then use a simple voltage regulator to drop-down the voltage. For example if your battery is giving 3.3 V output. then you can use LM7833 circuit for converting 5V to 3.3V.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, voltage sounds ok. As you have said, if I want to lower it I could.
@AlbertDude: How many pins does your samsung phone battery have? 3 pin batteries are easy to attach to a power-supply , Samsung's 4 pin li-ion batteries are different.... Samsung ace 3 has 3 pin battery.
Ace 3 works with power-supply and a resistor between ground and the middle pin.
Samsung Note 3 has a 4 pin battery and this a bit different. Tried several resistors, but the phone keeps detecting that it has no battery. So it will not boot past the Samsung screen. It just shuts down...
But I still have to try the boot into recover and reboot from that screen. Maybe it does work, not sure yet.
If someone tried or has a new idea. post =)
AlbertDude said:
I'd expect the device to regulate the voltage from the battery terminals so it's overkill to add another regulator.
If you're worried about the voltage being too high, just insert one or two (depending on your level of worry) forward biased diodes to drop the voltage by ~0.7 V or ~1.4 V.
I'm comfortable with leaving it at 5V....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Samsung GIO has 3 pin battery.
For the GIO:
- The "boot from recovery" trick was only needed after soldering the wire between the USB and battery pins. When I connected an external 5V source to the battery pins, the device powered up without problems.
- I have never had to use any resistors.
Good luck!
chihwahli said:
Ok, voltage sounds ok. As you have said, if I want to lower it I could.
@AlbertDude: How many pins does your samsung phone battery have? 3 pin batteries are easy to attach to a power-supply , Samsung's 4 pin li-ion batteries are different.... Samsung ace 3 has 3 pin battery.
Ace 3 works with power-supply and a resistor between ground and the middle pin.
Samsung Note 3 has a 4 pin battery and this a bit different. Tried several resistors, but the phone keeps detecting that it has no battery. So it will not boot past the Samsung screen. It just shuts down...
But I still have to try the boot into recover and reboot from that screen. Maybe it does work, not sure yet.
If someone tried or has a new idea. post =)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AlbertDude said:
I'd expect the device to regulate the voltage from the battery terminals so it's overkill to add another regulator.
If you're worried about the voltage being too high, just insert one or two (depending on your level of worry) forward biased diodes to drop the voltage by ~0.7 V or ~1.4 V.
I'm comfortable with leaving it at 5V....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good and valid points.
For the middle point of battery which (in most batteries I assume) senses the temperature of battery through a thermistor, you can do things. Either use a thermistor yourself (again overkill) or just use a resistor. The value of resistor can be chosen so that it gives half of battery's voltage output which is around 1.6 V. This can be done using a voltage divider circuit easily.
here!
I came down to this post when i want to have my pocket wifi "battery"-less.
See if this helps
m.instructables.com/id/How-to-use-phone-without-battery
This is my first post so try to copy the set of words above on google and look at it on
the instructable website
Cheers!
Maybe it's time to get out and do something productive. Like possibly, putting your phone down and make a power supply for what you're looking for? Reading all these comments, you all seem reasonably intelligent and I would be willing to bet that if you focused your time on the problem instead of a game, whomever would most certainly figure out a solution. Yeah?
To find a way to replace a 4 pin battery with any powersupply. Someone with electronics skill could for example measure the signals from all the 4 pins of the battery with an oscilloscope. I guess. Based on the signals create a electronics schematic that will mimic those signals. I guess that will work.
But I do not have the skills nor the oscilloscope to try it out.