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Car Charger Needed

I have tried using a cheap car-lighter-USB adapter, which has 1000mAh written on it... but it still doesn't do the job. (GPS+Data+Screen on)...
The battery does not charge, but it looses power.
Well, I only payed £2.90 for it (transport included) on e-bay...
I am looking for a more expensive one, but I need to make sure it does the job...
Can anyone recommend one?
Later update:
My cheap charger from e-bay, started smelling of burnt plastic. When I opened it up, I sau that the spring that was pushing the Vcc contact was touching the plastic case, which started to melt...

I had one sent to me by mobiles.co.uk which is labelled as a carphonewarehouse one.
Seems to charge it OK when using copilot.

i bought the original HTC car charger for 20euros, and i think its the best (although a bit expensive), since the charger is really small and neat with white led HTC letters, and you can remove the usb to micro usb cable to use it in a pc (i have never tried that though).
I looked for a standalone cable and usb adapter and the price would be almost identical with the OEM charger, so i think its the best deal.
Cheers,
T.
thats the charger:
htc cc-c200
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Maplins (in the UK) do a very small USB car charger that works well in my Audi A5 and my Mazda MX-5. Good tight fit and the packaging states input of 12-24V DC and output of 5V DC at 1 Amp.
Maplins code A50JK. Currently on special offer at £5.99 each instead of £8.99.

Thanks for that. Have you used it with a Desire?
For now I've ordered a miniUSB-female -> USB female adapater, and will try to use it with the car-charger of my SatNav which has a miniUSB plug... and outputs 1.2A
I don't think the higher current will damage the battery, especially that the phone will be always ON. Anybody knows different?

zonkkk said:
Thanks for that. Have you used it with a Desire?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes although not with GPS etc switched on (I have Satnav built in on both cars). I just need Bluetooth on for hands free.

zonkkk said:
Thanks for that. Have you used it with a Desire?
For now I've ordered a miniUSB-female -> USB female adapater, and will try to use it with the car-charger of my SatNav which has a miniUSB plug... and outputs 1.2A
I don't think the higher current will damage the battery, especially that the phone will be always ON. Anybody knows different?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should always buy ones that can supply higher currents. If a charger/power supply can supply higher currents (at the same voltage as required), it is a good thing. Thats why most of the time, more expensive ones can supply higher currents and cheaper ones cant cope when the current demand is high.
It is the voltage difference you should avoid. But if the voltage is same ie 5 volts in this case, then just go for one that can supply higher current.
hope that helps.

The reason I was asking is because I remember reading somewhere that charging a battery with low current is healthier for the battery, so I am not too keen on using something that outputs higher current than the original charger...

REB1 said:
Maplins (in the UK) do a very small USB car charger that works well in my Audi A5 and my Mazda MX-5. Good tight fit and the packaging states input of 12-24V DC and output of 5V DC at 1 Amp.
Maplins code A50JK. Currently on special offer at £5.99 each instead of £8.99.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have one of these, but got it from ebay for £3 Just need a right-angled usb to micro usb cable now to make it even more low profile.
Si

Hey was just looking on ebay and came across this
sorry i just found out i cant post links but its ebay number 170450658461.
It says its rated at 5v +/-5% and 1.5A so should be plenty, also worth noting this is a dual charger, so i can charge my phone and perhaps have my proper sat av going if i want or ipod or what have you.
might order it for £2.30 delivered

I bought this one from local Maplin store last night
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=267947
Has a retractable MINIusb lead and a standard usb socket to plug your micro lead into. Can charge 2 devices at once too.
Seems to work fine although not had a chance to test it with the phone under constant drain (satnav) yet. 1A output should be enough though.

zzleezz said:
I bought this one from local Maplin store last night
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=267947
Has a retractable MINIusb lead and a standard usb socket to plug your micro lead into. Can charge 2 devices at once too.
Seems to work fine although not had a chance to test it with the phone under constant drain (satnav) yet. 1A output should be enough though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the retractable miniusb lead able to plug directly ito the desire? if it is, do you think its long enough?

Afc, the retractable lead is miniusb not micro so no it won't. I've heard there are mini to micro converters so that would let you use it that way, not searched for them yet so no idea where from.
The retractable lead is 75cm long. I suppose it depends where your accessory socket is and where you mount your phone in your car. For me that would be fine, socket is just at bottom of dash and phone mounted on a vent holder (cheapo Tesco one for now) in my ferrari enzo (its the one that looks a lot like a Ford focus )

I am using my original Satnav car charger (rated 1.2 A).
This has a miniUSB connector, so I bought a miniUsb female -> USB female adaptor, and shorted the data lines together. And I am using a USB to micro USB cable to connect to the phone.
Now it works like a charm. Charges about 5% of battery for every 20 minutes of use with GPS + NAVIGATION + DATA + SCREEN FULL BRIGHTNESS on.
I don't know why I didn't think about it before buying the cheap car-charger with a USB port from ebay (the one that started melting, and wasn't even charging properly with everything on even if it was rated 1000mA).
Maybe this may be of use to someone...

Update on the maplin charger I mentioned earlier. 40 min journey the battery lost 5% charge going to buy a converter for my tomtom charger I think. Another 10 quid down the drain.

zzleezz said:
Update on the maplin charger I mentioned earlier. 40 min journey the battery lost 5% charge going to buy a converter for my tomtom charger I think. Another 10 quid down the drain.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, can confirm this charger does NOT supply enough to even keep the Desire running while using Sat Nav :-(
Kev

hi i've got this usb car charger, is this strong enough to charge the phone with the screen and gps on
USB Car Charger

kevwright said:
Yep, can confirm this charger does NOT supply enough to even keep the Desire running while using Sat Nav :-(
Kev
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you short the data pins on the Maplin charger then it provides enough charge to keep everything going.
It's actually the phone that's the culprit. It will only take 500ma when on charge via usb, but will take about 900ma when on ac. By shorting the data pins on the charger you fool the phone in to believing it is on AC charge, so it takes more from the charger. If you're going to short the data pins on a charger you must make sure its rated at least 1A.
I have the Maplin charger (the one that Reb1 posted an image of on page 1) and can confirm that shorting the data pins works.

Aaahhh, interesting post!
Have soldered the centre pins on my maplin charger (the dual one with the retractable lead) will test it as soon as I need to drive some distance.
Assuming it works thanks very much
*update*
Soldered the 2 centre connections together on the back of the usb socket in my car charger. Took it for a 30 minute triip this evening, had navigation software running, music playing, gps, WiFi, 3g - the lot. Gained 10% charge when I arrived! Stunned and very gratefully for the advice, thanks mate

zzleezz said:
Aaahhh, interesting post!
Have soldered the centre pins on my maplin charger (the dual one with the retractable lead) will test it as soon as I need to drive some distance.
Assuming it works thanks very much
*update*
Soldered the 2 centre connections together on the back of the usb socket in my car charger. Took it for a 30 minute triip this evening, had navigation software running, music playing, gps, WiFi, 3g - the lot. Gained 10% charge when I arrived! Stunned and very gratefully for the advice, thanks mate
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hhhm didn't realise that editing my last post would not mark it as unread. Important info above that I'm sure people would like to read so bumping with this post.

Not all charging methods created equal?

I am really frustrated with charging my phone.
From the wall, using the stock 700mA Samsung charger, I get 5% every 10 min.
From a USB cigarette lighter charger modified to source 750mA, I get 3% every 10 min.
From a USB cigarette lighter charger that can source 3A, I get hardly anything.
I assume from these findings that one or more of the following is true:
1. The phone knows when it is plugged into a stock charger.
2. The phone has a current limiter that prevents overcharging.
Does anyone have a charger, other than stock, that they recommend?
I'm half tempted to hook my stock charger up to a cigarette lighter inverter and power it that way.
(I'm also half-tempted to grab a current probe tomorrow and measure what the device is pulling.)

i havent really used my oem samsung wall charger much, but i know when i try to charge from my computers usb it takes 4EVER, thats why i jumped on this ebay deal

IBNobody said:
(I'm also half-tempted to grab a current probe tomorrow and measure what the device is pulling.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd probe the chargers and see how accurate their ratings are as well....

does anyone know if using a 1mA charger would be okay? i have one left over from my evo.

The phone won't draw more than 500mA from a charger unless the USB data pins are connected.
Be careful, though... 99.9% of the chargers from China that claim to be 700mA (the nominal value of Samsung's) or 1A will overheat and die (or worse) if you try to actually draw that much current for any sustained length of time. I'd almost go so far as to say that it's SO EASY for a manufacturer to support high-power mode, I'd be automatically suspicious of any allegedly high power charger that doesn't ship with the pins shorted together.
Manufacturers know that most consumers don't know the difference (hell, most users HERE don't know the difference, and XDA is the upper crust elite of the Android phone universe), so they omit the shorting bridge and ship a charger with quoted power capacity that it MIGHT be able to sustain for a couple of minutes if you operated it in a walk-in freezer, knowing that most phones will never draw more than 500mA and it'll work fine for them. It lets them sell the charger for 99 cents AND pretend to be better than the others on the rack because it has a bigger "max power" value.
It's "RMS-vs-Peak" all over again.

Yeah I'm one of those that don't know much about the charging. I did figure there was a different charge rate when plugged into the wall and when plugged into usb or a usb converter like powerjolt.
I also found that one of the usb to micro's that I bought for using with my car powerjolt coverter won't let me connect via debugging/adb shell. was a little surprised at this... is it just a bad cord?

bitbang3r said:
The phone won't draw more than 500mA from a charger unless the USB data pins are connected.
Be careful, though... 99.9% of the chargers from China that claim to be 700mA (the nominal value of Samsung's) or 1A will overheat and die (or worse) if you try to actually draw that much current for any sustained length of time. I'd almost go so far as to say that it's SO EASY for a manufacturer to support high-power mode, I'd be automatically suspicious of any allegedly high power charger that doesn't ship with the pins shorted together.
Manufacturers know that most consumers don't know the difference (hell, most users HERE don't know the difference, and XDA is the upper crust elite of the Android phone universe), so they omit the shorting bridge and ship a charger with quoted power capacity that it MIGHT be able to sustain for a couple of minutes if you operated it in a walk-in freezer, knowing that most phones will never draw more than 500mA and it'll work fine for them. It lets them sell the charger for 99 cents AND pretend to be better than the others on the rack because it has a bigger "max power" value.
It's "RMS-vs-Peak" all over again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
D+ to D- must be shorted to get the high power mode? Maybe that was why my 3A supply was not handling it.

The Epic pulls 380mA when charging from a USB port from a Dell T3400 workstation. The result was steady at 40% and 80%.
I'll try out my other charging methods later and find out everything.
Stay tuned!
EDIT 1:
380mA is the magic number. It draws 380mA from all USB sources, including my two car chargers.
It draws 600mA from the wall adapter.
The wall adapter does indeed have D+ and D- shorted. My other chargers did not.
Here is the pinout for a USB port: http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml
Here is the "beefy" USB charger I've been using:
http://www.wagan.com/index.php?page...ategory_id=22&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=98
This charger is rather nice because the step-down supply (AX3002) has a large heatsink soldered to the ground tab.
It currently pulls up/down the D+/- lines via resistors. Each port is pulled down separately.
What I plan on doing next is to remove the pull resistors from one of the ports and short D+/- together.

Well, this explains a lot. This was really getting frustrating. I bought a "high-curent" charger for my car and the phone blows through the battery when I'm driving around with Maps running.

Im always on the road and for me an inverter in cigarette lighter with stock wall charger works best.the slowest charge is using stock usb cable since theres a slot for it on the inverter.2nd was radio shack car lighter in inverter.the inverter was from radio shack as well
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App

IBNobody said:
Here is the pinout for a USB port: http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that is the official spec but there are actually not just four but six connectors on usb micro, which is how samsung can create a whole mess of pinut jumps for various amperage draws as well as data, entrainment dock and car dock.

Hard wired 12V TO 5V / 3A DC Power Converter Micro USB Charger | PROJECT NOW COMPLETE

EDIT: SCROLL DOWN TO POST #12 WHERE I SHOW YOU HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN FULL-1900 mAh CHARGER!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=43663686&postcount=12
-=========================================
Has anyone used this particular item before? Or can recommend a similar hard-wire unit that operates at 2A to 3A?
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Connectors-Adapter-Recorder/dp/B00D6B6CJI
I'm thinking about getting one for my SUV and Motorcyle to charge the S4 at normal 1900 rates like the OEM wall-charger. Get that FAST charge.
Yes, I know about cig lighter chargers. No, that is not what this thread is for.

hello did you buy it?

CZ Eddie said:
Has anyone used this particular item before? Or can recommend a similar hard-wire unit that operates at 2A to 3A?
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Connectors-Adapter-Recorder/dp/B00D6B6CJI
I'm thinking about getting one for my SUV and Motorcyle to charge the S4 at normal 1900 rates like the OEM wall-charger. Get that FAST charge.
Yes, I know about cig lighter chargers. No, that is not what this thread is for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this hardwired into my WRX:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CDL-WaterPr...35?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item1c34627e83
I ran it off the clock circuit (my clock is dead anyways) but any switched 12v source will do. It charges my car integrated Nexus7 without any issues, and at the faster rate.
I have another powering a servo and an aux USB port, but unfortunately I ran so much wire to get it into the center console by the handbrake it charges at USB rates.

paolopaulpaul said:
hello did you buy it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not yet.
Caferacer said:
I have this hardwired into my WRX:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CDL-WaterPr...35?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item1c34627e83
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, that's a great price! Does it charge at ~1900 rates? Here is an app that will tell you the charging rate:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ccc71.bmw&hl=en

Just bought this one for $9 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-waterpr...34?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item3a7a051922
It's a waterproof box so it'll be better on my Motorcycle. I'll let you guys know how it works out by next week sometime.

There was a thread somewhere that explained why some chargers won't do the 1900mah charge. He figured out where and what size resistors to put across the wires to enable it. I think it was in a car dock thread, I'll try and find it.
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)

CZ Eddie said:
Not yet.
Wow, that's a great price! Does it charge at ~1900 rates? Here is an app that will tell you the charging rate:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ccc71.bmw&hl=en
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That app won't show the mA on my N7 but does show it charging near the same % as a fast charger.
MonkeyTime said:
There was a thread somewhere that explained why some chargers won't do the 1900mah charge. He figured out where and what size resistors to put across the wires to enable it. I think it was in a car dock thread, I'll try and find it.
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the shorting/grounding of the data pins that activates 'fast charge' mode on some phones. Nexus 7's and my E4GT (Sprint S2) when I used it didn't require the pins to be shorted to charge faster. Mostly it was the charger (duh) and the quality/length of the cable that affected the charge speed. As well, most of the heavy 1A plus chargers short the data pins in the charger itself so you can use any cable. I believe the S4 doesn't require it as well, but don't have any data to confirm it.
The way I wired mine was to sacrifice a USB female port from a USB extender, and attached the power leads and shorted the data leads. Figured it couldn't hurt. The converter doesn't care if it's putting out 500mA or 3A. It's not intelligent like some chargers in what current it doles out.

Caferacer said:
shorted the data leads. Figured it couldn't hurt. The converter doesn't care if it's putting out 500mA or 3A. It's not intelligent like some chargers in what current it doles out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yours is the second post I've seen where someone has shorted the data pins on a charging-only setup. Is there a reason for doing that?
Ehh, n/m. I remembered the "Google before you ask" mantra...
This explains it nicely:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/194362-wont-charge-over-usb-car.html
MichaelBR said:
There are some reasons why it won't work, and some ways to solve it. First, let's understand how it works:
The USB cable has four pins. The inner two pins are where the data goes through. THe outer, power.
When the USB cable is plugged in to a computer, the data pins are connected normally and the phone knows it can only draw certain amount of power
When the cable is plugged in to a charger, the two middle pins are shorted, and the phone knows that it's NOT going to be sendind/receiving data, so it can draw as much power as it can. That's why it charges faster with the charger than when plugged in to a computer
Most chargers short the two pins. Some cables have a switch to do that.
There are different cable cauges as well, with different power capacities.
Some USB chargers, notably car chargers and some low-end (i.e. not good brand) chargers that don't draw from the car/don't give the phone as much current as it needs.
So, if any of below, the phone won't charge, or won't charge fast enough. Or, worse: it may appear as charging, but actually losing battery charge!
Cable too long or incorrect gauge
Middle pins not shorted for some reason
Charger doesn't deliver enough current
And the solutions are:
Don't use cable extensions, cables that are too long. Stick with the cable that came with the phone or with the charger
Get a good car charger, that delivers the right amount of current
I imagine you just got the cable from your original wall charger and plugged it in to the car charger. If you did that, then chances are the cable is OK, and the charger is the culprit. If this is the case, then get a better charger. Check how much current that charger can deliver. Check how much current your device actually needs.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

CZ Eddie said:
Yours is the second post I've seen where someone has shorted the data pins on a charging-only setup. Is there a reason for doing that?
Ehh, n/m. I remembered the "Google before you ask" mantra...
This explains it nicely:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/194362-wont-charge-over-usb-car.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be clear, there is no indication it is *required* for the S4. Mine quick charges just fine without shorted data leads. However I did this because my friends have a variety of phones and it only took a few minutes to do.

Caferacer said:
That app won't show the mA on my N7 but does show it charging near the same % as a fast charger.
It's the shorting/grounding of the data pins that activates 'fast charge' mode on some phones. Nexus 7's and my E4GT (Sprint S2) when I used it didn't require the pins to be shorted to charge faster. Mostly it was the charger (duh) and the quality/length of the cable that affected the charge speed. As well, most of the heavy 1A plus chargers short the data pins in the charger itself so you can use any cable. I believe the S4 doesn't require it as well, but don't have any data to confirm it.
The way I wired mine was to sacrifice a USB female port from a USB extender, and attached the power leads and shorted the data leads. Figured it couldn't hurt. The converter doesn't care if it's putting out 500mA or 3A. It's not intelligent like some chargers in what current it doles out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Caferacer said:
To be clear, there is no indication it is *required* for the S4. Mine quick charges just fine without shorted data leads. However I did this because my friends have a variety of phones and it only took a few minutes to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While I agree with what you posted in general terms, below is the link to the thread I was talking about. He did some testing and found the pins aren't just shorted, but shorted w/ 82K resistors to get the maximum charging current.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2274321

Will it damage the phone to have a 3A charger plugged into it? Also If it does not damage would it be able to run the camera as a "blackbox" and not die? I currently have a 2a charger and when i use the black box software it dies after about an hour or so.

SUCCESS!
I got the little black box in from eBay.
Gave it a quick/test wire setup. This is NOT indicative of the end result which will be soldered & have shrink tubing, etc.
Okay, first I grabbed my stock S3 data/charge cable.
Snipped off the standard USB end.
Cut off the ends of the pin 2 & 3 wires since they were not being used anymore (data pins).
Then attached the red (power) from the S3 cable to the yellow (power) lead from the little black box. And did the same for the black (negative) leads.
Then hard wired the red & black from the little black box to my motorcycle battery terminals.
On the first test, I only got 460mAh.
Then I decided to short the 2 & 3 pin wires (green & white) on the S3 cable together (attach them to each other). This gave me 1120mAh!
Next I took the tin-foil and wire braid from the S3 cable and tied them together with the negative lead on the S3 cable. This gave me 1220mAh!
Still not satisfied, I then cut down the 5' S3 cable and made it a 1.5' cable.
AND THIS RESULTED IN A FULL 1920mAh!!!! Right on.
That is exactly the same mAh as the stock S4 wall charger & cable combo give me. Very stoked about this. So now I'll do a nice clean install on the bike and then duplicate it for my car dock sometime soon. FULL CHARGE AHEAD!
Crxdc said:
Will it damage the phone to have a 3A charger plugged into it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, it will be fine. The phone only draws 1900mAh. If the phone were drawing 3000mAh then there might be a problem.

All done and installed now. And working great!
Negative battery connection (I forgot to shrink tube it but will do that later).
Braided negative wire (~16 to 18awg?) running under gas tank to front of bike.
I wish I would have waited till I got black zip ties in. I hate white zip ties.
The braided wire at the right side of pic that goes up above the gas tank is the pos/neg wire lead that plus right into the phone.
2A inline fuse connecting via blade connector (sorry MC) to a previously used power-on-ignition wire.
This goes to (+) on the little black box.
Note the shrink tube over the braid over the crimp connector (wire goes to top-right of screen).
Phone sitting next to the phone dock I made out of a holster that came with my phone case.
You can see the braided/shrink tubed MicroUSB connector already plugged into the phone.
It's not showing a charge though, because the ignition key is not turned on.
Phone is inserted into stable dock (it will never fall out unless I crash hard).
Ignition is turned on and battery is charging!
And proof that it's charging at the full 1900mAh. Success!

CZ Eddie said:
All done and installed now. And working great!
Negative battery connection (I forgot to shrink tube it but will do that later).
Braided negative wire (~16 to 18awg?) running under gas tank to front of bike.
I wish I would have waited till I got black zip ties in. I hate white zip ties.
The braided wire at the right side of pic that goes up above the gas tank is the pos/neg wire lead that plus right into the phone.
2A inline fuse connecting via blade connector (sorry MC) to a previously used power-on-ignition wire.
This goes to (+) on the little black box.
Note the shrink tube over the braid over the crimp connector (wire goes to top-right of screen).
Phone sitting next to the phone dock I made out of a holster that came with my phone case.
You can see the braided/shrink tubed MicroUSB connector already plugged into the phone.
It's not showing a charge though, because the ignition key is not turned on.
Phone is inserted into stable dock (it will never fall out unless I crash hard).
Ignition is turned on and battery is charging!
And proof that it's charging at the full 1900mAh. Success!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome.

Hard wire phone charger and Bluetooth Receiver to car battery plan...
Hello,
I'm planning to install the following in my car along with new stereo head unit:
1) CraigsDocks Samsung Galaxy S4 docking charger, with USB power out
2) Rocketfish Bluetooth Music Receiver (with aptX), with DC 5V power out (connected to 3' 5V to USB power cable)
Plan to use this to convert (found on EBAY - I can't post links here in XDA yet/new user): Dual USB Cable Connectors Power Adapters 8-22V 12 V to 5V/3A DC Volt Converters... to connect directly to my car battery to power both the Samsung charger and the Rocketfish.
I'm new at this and I'm wondering if you all think this will work, or if I'm missing any steps, or if there are other better suggestions?
Thanks for your help!

ebrowni said:
Hello,
I'm planning to install the following in my car along with new stereo head unit:
1) CraigsDocks Samsung Galaxy S4 docking charger, with USB power out
2) Rocketfish Bluetooth Music Receiver (with aptX), with DC 5V power out (connected to 3' 5V to USB power cable)
Plan to use this to convert (found on EBAY - I can't post links here in XDA yet/new user): Dual USB Cable Connectors Power Adapters 8-22V 12 V to 5V/3A DC Volt Converters... to connect directly to my car battery to power both the Samsung charger and the Rocketfish.
I'm new at this and I'm wondering if you all think this will work, or if I'm missing any steps, or if there are other better suggestions?
Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks good to me. :good:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-USB-Ca...064?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51af639938

ebrowni said:
Hello,
I'm planning to install the following in my car along with new stereo head unit:
1) CraigsDocks Samsung Galaxy S4 docking charger, with USB power out
2) Rocketfish Bluetooth Music Receiver (with aptX), with DC 5V power out (connected to 3' 5V to USB power cable)
Plan to use this to convert (found on EBAY - I can't post links here in XDA yet/new user): Dual USB Cable Connectors Power Adapters 8-22V 12 V to 5V/3A DC Volt Converters... to connect directly to my car battery to power both the Samsung charger and the Rocketfish.
I'm new at this and I'm wondering if you all think this will work, or if I'm missing any steps, or if there are other better suggestions?
Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just realize that if you wire it to your batter there will be a small draw from the converter and chargers even when not in use. If you let your car sit for a week or long weekend you might come out to find the battery dead. I personally wouldn't wire anything directly to the battery, especially since you didn't mention an inline fuse. Find a switched 12v lead inside the car. Not only does this protect your phone, charger, and car, but it also means you don't have to run anything through the firewall, which is a pain.
You can either tie into the cig lighter wiring, or find something else (I used my clock circuit since it runs to a 10A fuse and is switched).

Caferacer said:
Just realize that if you wire it to your batter there will be a small draw from the converter and chargers even when not in use. If you let your car sit for a week or long weekend you might come out to find the battery dead. I personally wouldn't wire anything directly to the battery, especially since you didn't mention an inline fuse. Find a switched 12v lead inside the car. Not only does this protect your phone, charger, and car, but it also means you don't have to run anything through the firewall, which is a pain.
You can either tie into the cig lighter wiring, or find something else (I used my clock circuit since it runs to a 10A fuse and is switched).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your clock circuit is switched?
I agree with the firewall being a pita, but I'm not a huge fan of tapping on to other circuits either. With nothing charging, what would be drawing any current? If there's anything, it would have to be minimal. It also allows you to charge a phone/device with the car not running, sometimes very handy (and a modification I've made before for just that reason). An inline fuse is also a must, good point!
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)

MonkeyTime said:
Your clock circuit is switched?
I agree with the firewall being a pita, but I'm not a huge fan of tapping on to other circuits either. With nothing charging, what would be drawing any current? If there's anything, it would have to be minimal. It also allows you to charge a phone/device with the car not running, sometimes very handy (and a modification I've made before for just that reason). An inline fuse is also a must, good point!
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, my clock circuit has a switched lead to wake up the clock as well as a hard wired lead to retain the time. Both run to the same 10A fuse.
There is a small transformer in the converter and the receiver bluetooth will stay on. They have a small energy draw which is not negligible over a long period of time. At the very least I would include a dash mounted switch to completely shut the charger and receiver off. For instance I have a bluetooth OBD adapter (Not too much unlike your bluetooth receiver) that drained a 2 year old car battery over a week I left the car sitting while I was on vacation. For day to day driving it's not a problem but my OBD adapter isn't hardwired and I can just remove it when I know the car will be sitting.

Thanks
Caferacer said:
Just realize that if you wire it to your batter there will be a small draw from the converter and chargers even when not in use. If you let your car sit for a week or long weekend you might come out to find the battery dead.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oooh, good point! Makes sense to me. I have never done a mod to my car's audio system so I'll be paying a professional installer. I'm so glad to have this information before I shop around at the good places here and get some offers!
Thank you!

[Q] Should it be taking 4+ hours to charge?

I plugged my OPO charger (and red lead) to the OPO at 21% battery, so far this is the charge progress:
21% 6.04pm
36% 7.04pm
63% 8.45pm
76% 9.35pm
At this rate it'll be done 10.45pm I think - nearly 5 hours.
Should it be taking this long?

It shouldn't be taking that long to charge, mines take at least 1 hour. Charges very fast.
Are you using the stock red wall charger as well as the red usb cable supplied by OnePlus?
Ensure that in settings -> about phone that it says Charging (AC) and not Charging (USB)
Be sure that you plugged the USB cable all the way in and that its not loose.

zephiK said:
It shouldn't be taking that long to charge, mines take at least 1 hour. Charges very fast.
Are you using the stock red wall charger as well as the red usb cable supplied by OnePlus?
Ensure that in settings -> about phone that it says Charging (AC) and not Charging (USB)
Be sure that you plugged the USB cable all the way in and that its not loose.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Says Charging (AC). All cables are fitted securely, only thing is having to use a 2 to 3-pin adapter for UK sockets but that seems unlikely to be at fault?
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Salty Wagyu said:
Says Charging (AC). All cables are fitted securely, only thing is having to use a 2 to 3-pin adapter for UK sockets but that seems unlikely to be at fault?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same charger and cable (i'm from Italy) and my telehone charges quite fast. I have to suspect that indeed the adaptor is the culprit here.

I hope it isn't a phone fault at least, wouldn't want to attempt to get a replacement. Battery life on the other hand is pretty great though.

Salty Wagyu said:
I hope it isn't a phone fault at least, wouldn't want to attempt to get a replacement. Battery life on the other hand is pretty great though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try another cable to make sure it's not the cable. If the issue persists, open a ticket with Oneplus as your charger may be defective.
I don't recommend continued use of said charger until it has been cleared or replaced. While highly unlikely, a defective product can cause issues such as overheating or damaging attached devices.

Are other short cables ok to try? I remember reading the cable has to be a certain AWG, so I don't know if my Nexus 7 & 4 cable will do.

Get rid of the adapter. I tested it with and without and with the adapter and with it the phone charged at 1% per 2.5 minutes and without it the phone charged at 1% per minute.
All you need to do is shove something into the top(earth) pin of the socket and you can then just plug the 2 pin plug into the UK socket.

GTCC said:
Get rid of the adapter. I tested it with and without and with the adapter and with it the phone charged at 1% per 2.5 minutes and without it the phone charged at 1% per minute.
All you need to do is shove something into the top(earth) pin of the socket and you can then just plug the 2 pin plug into the UK socket.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Intriguing, that doesn't sound safe though!
edit: Actually the 2 pins don't seem to fit at all in the bottom 2 slots of my 3-pin socket. The holes are too wide apart.
I was going to buy an Anker 5-way USB charging station with 2.4A in each slot, this should solve the issue I guess.

Why is it not safe? The top pin is only an earth and it not even used in a lot of cases, it main use is to move the shield over the 2 bottom pins. That's why the top pin is longer than the bottom two.
---------- Post added at 12:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:05 AM ----------
Salty Wagyu said:
Intriguing, that doesn't sound safe though!
edit: Actually the 2 pins don't seem to fit at all in the bottom 2 slots of my 3-pin socket. The holes are too wide apart.
I was going to buy an Anker 5-way USB charging station with 2.4A in each slot, this should solve the issue I guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They will fit, you just need to slightly force them.

GTCC said:
Why is it not safe? The top pin is only an earth and it not even used in a lot of cases, it main use is to move the shield over the 2 bottom pins. That's why the top pin is longer than the bottom two.
---------- Post added at 12:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:05 AM ----------
They will fit, you just need to slightly force them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I got it in, was a bit awkward shoving some pliers in the top slot. Still not happy with the solution tho I'll see how fast it charges once I manage to drain phone

Salty Wagyu said:
Well I got it in, was a bit awkward shoving some pliers in the top slot. Still not happy with the solution tho I'll see how fast it charges once I manage to drain phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats going to take awhile to drain your phone
Try downloading a app that measures your charging rate as well. You can compare and contrast the different combinations of usb cable/charger/etc as well as someone else who charges fast can compare with your charging rate.

zephiK said:
Thats going to take awhile to drain your phone
Try downloading a app that measures your charging rate as well. You can compare and contrast the different combinations of usb cable/charger/etc as well as someone else who charges fast can compare with your charging rate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try this one out https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ccc71.bmw

Salty Wagyu said:
Says Charging (AC). All cables are fitted securely, only thing is having to use a 2 to 3-pin adapter for UK sockets but that seems unlikely to be at fault?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The adapter that you have brought whats the AMP is it outputing , i had the same issue , since i live in europe and have to use the adapter to charge the phone the first one i brought emits only 1 AMP by the adapter , then i went to the store back and asked him to provide me the adapter which has higher amp output , the store keeper gave me the 13 amp one ( the highest as he says ) and now it charges much faster within one hour ...
I would recommend to go and get the 13 AMP adapter and then plug in your charger ...
Moreover as i see the phone charger is not the same has i have , mine is square and yours in a different shape , is that original charger from OPO , if not please check the chargers amp output it should be 2 amp as per the OPO charger rating , else you would have a slow charge ,,,

fai28683 said:
The adapter that you have brought whats the AMP is it outputing , i had the same issue , since i live in europe and have to use the adapter to charge the phone the first one i brought emits only 1 AMP by the adapter , then i went to the store back and asked him to provide me the adapter which has higher amp output , the store keeper gave me the 13 amp one ( the highest as he says ) and now it charges much faster within one hour ...
I would recommend to go and get the 13 AMP adapter and then plug in your charger ...
Moreover as i see the phone charger is not the same has i have , mine is square and yours in a different shape , is that original charger from OPO , if not please check the chargers amp output it should be 2 amp as per the OPO charger rating , else you would have a slow charge ,,,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know how to measure Amps coming in, everything I'm holding in that photo is all OPO-made, even the 3-pin adapter came included with the phone.
Either way I've stopped using it and deemed the adapter as faulty. I'm using my Nexus 7 charger now, it only outputs 2A rather than the needed 2.1A but it'll do, it charged my phone up fully in an hour and half this time.

Salty Wagyu said:
I don't know how to measure Amps coming in, everything I'm holding in that photo is all OPO-made, even the 3-pin adapter came included with the phone.
Either way I've stopped using it, and used my Nexus 7 charger instead. It only outputs 2A rather than the needed 2.1A but it'll do, it charged my phone up fully in an hour and half this time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Regarding the amp output by the adapter , it should be posted on the box that came with it .
And if the OPO official charger is not charging with the best speed , then it should be a faulty charger .
ANyways good to know you have the solution to the problem
Cheers buddy ...

fai28683 said:
Regarding the amp output by the adapter , it should be posted on the box that came with it .
And if the OPO official charger is not charging with the best speed , then it should be a faulty charger .
ANyways good to know you have the solution to the problem
Cheers buddy ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh the bit where the USB cable goes into? That says 5V~2100mA. Think I should pursue an RMA on the charger only?

Salty Wagyu said:
Oh the bit where the USB cable goes into? That says 5V~2100mA. Think I should pursue an RMA on the charger only?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The charger which the USB cables goes in as per my OPO charger is 5V / 2A ( which seems also okie in your case ).
The adapter that your charger plugs to connect to wall socket should be 250V / 13A.

Last night I left my OPO to charge when it was at 11%, OPO supplied charger but amazon kindle usb cable (I love them for some reason, have several). After about 7 hour it was at 91%.
Plugged into my Samsung charger (supplied with a Galaxy Note 10.1 tablet) and the same cable, normal (quick) charging.
I fear the adapter that OPO supplied may have been of sub par quality and has deteriorated.
Also, I checked the battery settings while it was charging, it mentioned AC.
I'll plug my tablet in the OPO charger just to make sure

My charger has been charging my phone quite fast as it did since Day 1. Could it have something to do with European chargers?

Belkin USB-C PD charger back powers my car

I bought the Belkin F7U004bt04-BLK ( http://www.belkin.com/us/p/P-F7U004/ ) USB-C PD car charger and it has been working great, but I have been noticing weird things in my car and I finally figured out what is going on. The Pixel is providing 5V to the Belkin charger and that voltage is making its way back onto my car's power outlet circuit. I have several devices on the same power outlet circuit (outlet goes off with the ignition) and one of those devices was staying on after I turned off the ignition if I had the Pixel plugged in. I measured the Belkin power outlet connection and there is 4.5V present (which is enough to power a electronic device on that same power outlet circuit). The Belkin LED lights up too.
I don't think the Belkin should do this, but I wonder if the Pixel should be outputting 5V. It seems like it should take some negotiating before the Pixel would put out 5V, but I am not very familiar with the USB-C spec.
Pixel plugged into the Belkin charger. Voltage measured on the Belkin power outlet contacts.
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Wow, so in theory this means you could jump start your car from your Macbook.

mtucker said:
I bought the Belkin F7U004bt04-BLK ( http://www.belkin.com/us/p/P-F7U004/ ) USB-C PD car charger and it has been working great, but I have been noticing weird things in my car and I finally figured out what is going on. The Pixel is providing 5V to the Belkin charger and that voltage is making its way back onto my car's power outlet circuit. I have several devices on the same power outlet circuit (outlet goes off with the ignition) and one of those devices was staying on after I turned off the ignition if I had the Pixel plugged in. I measured the Belkin power outlet connection and there is 4.5V present (which is enough to power a electronic device on that same power outlet circuit). The Belkin LED lights up too.
I don't think the Belkin should do this, but I wonder if the Pixel should be outputting 5V. It seems like it should take some negotiating before the Pixel would put out 5V, but I am not very familiar with the USB-C spec.
Pixel plugged into the Belkin charger. Voltage measured on the Belkin power outlet contacts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The same thing happens with a tronsmart usb-c charger that I have. Blew all fuses on a couple of Honda's that I tested with.
Is there any USB-C car charger that doesnt do this???

tripleacs said:
The same thing happens with a tronsmart usb-c charger that I have. Blew all fuses on a couple of Honda's that I tested with. Is there any USB-C car charger that doesnt do this???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply. I was curious if anyone else had seen something like this and the answer is yes! Most ICs made for charging batteries will prevent the battery from back powering an unpowered input, but technically the USB-C "charger" isn't really a charger (the true charging circuit is inside the phone). It isn't a big deal since nothing blows and now that I know I won't let the phone set in the dock long with the ignition off. I will probably put a Schottky diode in series with that power port and that will keep the 5V from the Pixel from getting back into my power port circuitry. The Belkin LED will still light and some current will be used in it, but it won't be nearly as much and I won't have other power port devices trying to run from the Pixel.

mtucker said:
Thanks for the reply. I was curious if anyone else had seen something like this and the answer is yes! Most ICs made for charging batteries will prevent the battery from back powering an unpowered input, but technically the USB-C "charger" isn't really a charger (the true charging circuit is inside the phone). It isn't a big deal since nothing blows and now that I know I won't let the phone set in the dock long with the ignition off. I will probably put a Schottky diode in series with that power port and that will keep the 5V from the Pixel from getting back into my power port circuitry. The Belkin LED will still light and some current will be used in it, but it won't be nearly as much and I won't have other power port devices trying to run from the Pixel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, the good thing is if you ever had to change your car battery, you might be able to use the Pixel to keep the radio's station memory so you don't have to set the stations and other settings.
The bad news is it is still providing back power in a way the circuit is not designed. Which could lead to other issues. This is something Belkin needs to fix.
You should post this to Benson's G+ page for him to investigate.

tripleacs said:
The same thing happens with a tronsmart usb-c charger that I have. Blew all fuses on a couple of Honda's that I tested with.
Is there any USB-C car charger that doesnt do this???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which tronsmart usb-c charger do you have? Benson has one of the tronsmart car chargers on the would not recommend list due to it causing equipment damage.
Here is the list that benson and nathan k made up https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1vnpEXfo2HCGADdd9G2x9dMDWqENiY2kgBJUu29f_TX8/pubhtml#

I have noticed this with my Pixel XL, when it is doing it it shows a notification which gives you the option to change the way the USB works, Power Device, Charge Only, Data Only etc. Its set on Power Device which means it is trying to power the car. When i try to change it to Charge Only, you can't.

You got me curious, so I tried it with a Nekteck car charger that seems to be well-regarded in the spreadsheet. It showed lower voltage than you describe (more like 2.5V rather than 4.5, and not terribly stable). It did this with both the Pixel XL and Pixel C. This is starting to make me think this is expected behavior.
Tried it with the same charger, but using a C-to-A cable (the one that come with the Pixel XL) and it showed virtually no voltage (but not quite zero).

I believe the USB -C PD standard includes the ability for devices to provide power, not just receive. This behavior may be in accordance with the USB -C spec.

mrhuggy said:
I have noticed this with my Pixel XL, when it is doing it it shows a notification which gives you the option to change the way the USB works, Power Device, Charge Only, Data Only etc. Its set on Power Device which means it is trying to power the car. When i try to change it to Charge Only, you can't.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had never seen a notification before (no icon at the top of the notifications area), but with your info I swiped down to view all notifications and there was a tap for charging options notification (see options below). I got the same result though. I changed it to "charge only" as well as every other option and after about two seconds the 5V out of the Pixel returned. I decided to not mess with it anymore and put a Schottky diode on the "hot" lead of that power outlet. The diode keeps the Pixel from powering the entire power outlet circuit (the other power outlets and electronics that I have on that circuit). The Pixel still back powers the Belkin, but that isn't nearly as bad as powering my entire power port circuit.
I have to assume Belkin used a basic "buck regulator" switching power supply to drop the car voltage to 9V/5V for the Pixel. The voltage from the Pixel would just have to travel through an inductor and body diode of a MOSFET to get to the power port circuit (power supplies are my shtick).

It seems that this is an issue, while reading through the reviewed VIsnic car charger on Amazon by Benson Leung. There was a comment by Nathan Sherman from microsoft mentioning he had bought that charger which worked fine in his ford because his cigarette port always has power. But when he left the charger and phone connected to his wife's toyota, he noticed the dome light was blinking/flashing on and off. He reazlised the phone had switched modes and was sending power back into the car as you have mentioned. It seems there is an issue with that car charger, which might be the same problem with yours.
Nathan C. Sherman says:
Hey, Benson, Nathan Sherman over at Microsoft.
Thanks for this review, I bought a couple of these for my Lumia 950s. One thing I noticed that you may want to include in your tests is backdrive from DRP devices like phones. On my Ford, the lighter socket is always powered, so it is not an issue, but the other day I had my Lumia plugged into my wife's Toyota. When I came back to the car, I noticed the dome lights were flashing.
So what's going on is that the Toyota does not power the port at all times, so my phone switched back into DRP mode and subsequently switched to source, at 5V 900mA. This charger permitted this power to feed back into the lighter socket, basically trying to power the car's accessories node (dome lights, etc) from my phone. Then my phone would trip overcurrent, and retry over and over.
It would not take much for them to fix this (a cutoff power transistor, or maybe a beefy diode), but I'm pretty sure my Toyota accessories aren't designed to run from 5V.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Benson Leung says:
I'll try to find this adapter and confirm this. This is actually quite concerning.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nathan C. Sherman says:
OK I definitely see the 10K Rp on the adapter, but there is also what looks like a non-resistive load on CC to ground, which may be fooling the phone into thinking there is an Rd there. Vbus is at vSafe0 when only the cable is plugged in, connecting it to the adapter causes DRP.
I'm using the white Apple MacBook USB2 cable since I know it's just a passive passthru cable. I think our phone cable that comes with the Lumia is an active cable, so its measurements would be different.
I'll PM you, no need to carry on on Amazon review forums until we know what's up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

So in short, we should stay away from this belkin charger until this issue is rectified ?
Or will it work with no issues if we use the charger only when the car is ignited ?

Emerald Core said:
So in short, we should stay away from this belkin charger until this issue is rectified ?
Or will it work with no issues if we use the charger only when the car is ignited ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea unplug your phone when your car is off

clockcycle said:
Yea unplug your phone when your car is off
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do that with most of my chargers. What is the actual issue that people are discussing then ?

tripleacs said:
The same thing happens with a tronsmart usb-c charger that I have. Blew all fuses on a couple of Honda's that I tested with.
Is there any USB-C car charger that doesnt do this???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which tronsmart usb c car charger, the one on the spreadsheet that says Benson Leung approved on Amazon? I just ordered one of those for testing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0146FK3G0
PROBLEM;. With above charger how can we know which vendor has the updated version and how can we tell if it's the updated one or the one that heats up and melts your phone?!
My blitzwolf doesn't do this but it's not PD. Cabled for $5 delivered, it does not back power my car(off) when phone is connect. It stays off.
http://m.banggood.com/BlitzWolf-5V-...tablet-Google-Chromebook-Pixel-p-1008254.html
It's an issue with the way some phones can act as client or host and switch between taking or giving power.

Emerald Core said:
I do that with most of my chargers. What is the actual issue that people are discussing then ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It would be "ok" to use on a always powered circuit since it would always be powering the charger at 12-14.4v thus never back powering the circuit. But if you ever used it in a car that has switched power circuit, then the charger will attempt to back power the circuit.
So, if you ever turn the car off an have the phone still plugged (example: sitting in your car waiting for someone) the phone will be back powering the circuit at 5v.
Most power ports are not individually switched, usually they are tied in with the radio and a few other accessories.
This could be a bad thing depending on the electronics being powered. Most auto electronics can tolerate down to 9v but are usually not tested for 5v operation. This includes back powering part of the body control unit since most things are not controlled with simple relays anymore.

Looks like I bought the bad version of the tronsmart car charger. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0146FK3G0
This supposedly is the good version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYCC432
PSA; Careful the same vendors on both listings.. not sure which is the good one. I ordered from geekbuying instead of krofel(listed on both). It's like Russian roulette..
Note; there's opposing thoughts on this charger between testers, with reason, you're not sure which version you'll get from who..

PSA; as some of you know Benson Leung fried his Chromebook Pixel while testing. Others may not know that on November 9th Nathan K posted messing up his Pixel's Port controller as well.
https://plus.google.com/102612254593917101378/posts/iFweEx52Rbs?sfc=true
Be careful what accessories, cables you use, including major manufacturer name brands.

A follow up. I posted the info on Google Plus for Nathan K. and Benson Leung answered.
Benson Leung
+Matt Tucker, I've independently reproduced your results and I will be contacting Belkin about this shortly. Thanks for the report.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The diode I put on the power port that I use for the Belkin has effectively solved the problem (other electronics on the power outlet circuit don't try to power up when I turn my car off and have the Pixel plugged in), but it will be nice to bring this up with Belkin so they can hopefully fix this in the next model. The F7U004bt04-BLK is recommended (3 out of 3 rating) on the list of tested chargers that Nathan K maintains, but it does have the back powering quirk. As others have mentioned, you won't see this problem if your car's power ports stay powered when you turn the key off.

mtucker said:
A follow up. I posted the info on Google Plus for Nathan K. and Benson Leung answered.
The diode I put on the power port that I use for the Belkin has effectively solved the problem (other electronics on the power outlet circuit don't try to power up when I turn my car off and have the Pixel plugged in), but it will be nice to bring this up with Belkin so they can hopefully fix this in the next model. The F7U004bt04-BLK is recommended (3 out of 3 rating) on the list of tested chargers that Nathan K maintains, but it does have the back powering quirk. As others have mentioned, you won't see this problem if your car's power ports stay powered when you turn the key off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Matt, I had to re-register an account to reply. I have an alt here and do some non-public work. Thanks for catching this, and great detective work!
The ports on my Z4 are not switched so I never caught this during tests. I do perform a standalone Rd test in my analysis sheet using a purpose-built microcontroller, but I fully disconnect the charger when running it. Vbus HOT tests would damage my Arduino's GPIOs otherwise. (That is actually how the I discovered the N6P OEM charger flaw.)
I have yet to test the Belkin simply because it has been out-of-stock everywhere. Thanks for sharing the data and the fix. Although it's a bit more complex than most people should have to do! I've also heard reports of questionable QC on the PD charger as well, so I am re-evaluating that rating. (It was based on trust of the Google Store and their engineers.) In the thread comments linked below, Bill Koch claimed there was a dead-short between the +12v and GND lugs on his Belkin and would blow the fuse in his Scion FR-S. So that brings Belkin's QC into question.
[Can't link this, I have too few posts. Look at the AUKEY CC-Y7 analysis #34]
I can say this: Belkin rebrands other company's products and sells them as their own. The 3.1Gen2 cable in the Apple Store, for example, is actually made by "the largest cable company you've never heard of" whom I can't name publicly. I'm guessing the same is true for their chargers.
Let me grab all the chargers I can and take some Twinkie logs seeing if they have a "non-resistive load" as Benson describes it.