A few days ago while driving home from work, the TB tells me that even though it is connected to a USB power source, it doesn't have enough juice to keep on going and that I should switch to AC power. I was rarely (if ever) using the AC adapter. I always plugged the phone into a USB port on my home/work computer or into the dual USB adapter I have in my car. I started charging with the AC adapter at night and noticed a significant improvement in battery life.
I can't really say that the power source was the key factor, since I was experimenting with kernels, ROMS, and SetCPU profiles/smartass governor on a pretty consistent basis. In any case, I'm pretty sure it made a big difference... something did, anyway... I can easily get through the day now.
Then I stumbled on a dual-USB-A to mini-USB cable from a 2.5" Antec HD enclosure and figured I'd give it a shot (with a mini->micro adapter). It was necessary for the enclosure when you tried to use a 7200 RPM drive because a single USB port didn't deliver enough power alone. I decided to plug in my old Droid and see if it worked. When it did, I crossed my fingers and plugged in the Thunderbolt. Seems to be running fine. I've been taking the cable with me between my car, home, and work computers and have noticed faster charge times, less of an immediate drop-off when disconnecting.
I found what appear to be the same cables online if anyone is interested in testing. They are made by StarTech and compusa.com apparently has the cheapest prices (~$4/ea). The part numbers are USB2HAUBY1 / USB2HAUBY3 / USB2HAUBY6 for the 1ft/3ft/6ft respectively. I'm wondering if anyone else could try my experiment w/a more stable platform (i.e., not changing ROMS/kernels/etc.). I figure now that the initial "I can't stop playing with this phone" phase has worn off, we should be able to measure the difference with more typical usage patterns.
FWIW, I have no intention of ever using a single USB-A to micro-USB cable to charge this thing again (except w/the AC adapter). Anyone charging via USB should definitely consider it.
LOL I just started a thread about this here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1022400 not 6 hours ago! Nice to know the cables would work. I figured if I ran two in paralell it might do the trick.
Weird, I've yet to have a cable that told me it was not strong enough.. Multiple cables used in my car (has a usb port), home and work computers. Guess I've gotten lucky.
thats interesting, i kno for sure that using a/c is by far the best solution as it lasts longer, stronger charge, and charges MUCH quicker, i usually only use regular usb as a last resort, but i think u made a pretty damn good discovery! im definitely looking into this
The chargers that came with the phone are 1Amp supplies... Standard USB is only .5Amp, so far 1Amp is the largest draw on a USB 2.0 standard... While when USB 3 hits, that will have higher current capacity than 2.0, so it looks as HTC has designed the phone for USB 3.0
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
I don't remember what the exact error message was, but I was at about 7% when I got to my car... I tried to use the phone for navigation and after a few minutes it told me that I needed to switch to AC power.
My thinking is that when the phone is running, active, and the screen is on, it is drawing too much power from the USB power source to allow the battery to fully recharge. This is probably why my experience with the battery has been abysmal. I was using a single USB cable plugged into my computer or a cigarette/USB car adapter 90% of the time.
But if the AC power supply pushes 1A and each USB port can push up to 500mA, the Y adapter should come pretty close to matching the performance of the AC adapter. I'd guess that AC would be the best option, but I'd prefer to have the USB connection w/the computer.
Sorry nerozehl / mods for not adding onto another thread, but I wanted to get the poll going to see how people are typically charging.
scottt732 said:
I don't remember what the exact error message was, but I was at about 7% when I got to my car... I tried to use the phone for navigation and after a few minutes it told me that I needed to switch to AC power.
My thinking is that when the phone is running, active, and the screen is on, it is drawing too much power from the USB power source to allow the battery to fully recharge. This is probably why my experience with the battery has been abysmal. I was using a single USB cable plugged into my computer or a cigarette/USB car adapter 90% of the time.
But if the AC power supply pushes 1A and each USB port can push up to 500mA, the Y adapter should come pretty close to matching the performance of the AC adapter. I'd guess that AC would be the best option, but I'd prefer to have the USB connection w/the computer.
Sorry nerozehl / mods for not adding onto another thread, but I wanted to get the poll going to see how people are typically charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like you have Power Save set to ON for the error message...
Due to my crappy battery life I use this method.
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ddgarcia05 said:
Due to my crappy battery life I use this method.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is that the new cold fusion charger I heard about?
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
EDD Skitz said:
Is that the new cold fusion charger I heard about?
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Two words. Flux Capacitor
You think that guy has any problems with his battery going dead???
LOL
Dnakaman said:
You think that guy has any problems with his battery going dead???
LOL
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what battery? it was destroyed just looking at that thing...
kierandill said:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Get it to 88 mph and you can go back in time!
kierandill said:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What the heck is a jiggawatt!!!
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
very often when using your car charger and navigation, the phone uses more battery than the car charger can replace, so the battery will drop even while plugged in charging. a imagine USB would be similar, since usb is 0.5 amps, while A/C is 1amp. i went to radio shack and got a 1.3 amp charger for my phone, and when plugged in in my car it pulls around 800mA during charging. so its just about close to good enough.
RogerPodacter said:
very often when using your car charger and navigation, the phone uses more battery than the car charger can replace, so the battery will drop even while plugged in charging. a imagine USB would be similar, since usb is 0.5 amps, while A/C is 1amp. i went to radio shack and got a 1.3 amp charger for my phone, and when plugged in in my car it pulls around 800mA during charging. so its just about close to good enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now you risk the overcharging/overheating...Keep an eye on that temp
scottt732 said:
I don't remember what the exact error message was, but I was at about 7% when I got to my car... I tried to use the phone for navigation and after a few minutes it told me that I needed to switch to AC power.
My thinking is that when the phone is running, active, and the screen is on, it is drawing too much power from the USB power source to allow the battery to fully recharge. This is probably why my experience with the battery has been abysmal. I was using a single USB cable plugged into my computer or a cigarette/USB car adapter 90% of the time.
But if the AC power supply pushes 1A and each USB port can push up to 500mA, the Y adapter should come pretty close to matching the performance of the AC adapter. I'd guess that AC would be the best option, but I'd prefer to have the USB connection w/the computer.
Sorry nerozehl / mods for not adding onto another thread, but I wanted to get the poll going to see how people are typically charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Turn off 4G and drop the screen brightness to 50% orless and the draw should be low enough for USB charging. If you are using a car adapter, get one of the high current ones that output 1A. You can get a nice widget like 'Battery monitor Widget' which will show you if your charger is keeping up or not. If the widget displays a value that is green, the charger output is exceeding the draw from the phone by the value shown in the widget.
magneticzero said:
Now you risk the overcharging/overheating...Keep an eye on that temp
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No need to worry, battery only draws what power it needs, anything higher just doesn't get pulled. Been using it a year now
EDD Skitz said:
What the heck is a jiggawatt!!!
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it is the energy produced every time jay-z opens his mouth
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It is rated at 1amp. I'm wondering if the Captivate allows us to actually charge the whole 1AMP or if it charges only .7Amps as a limit. Does anyone know?
If not, is there a application I can check the charge rate to let you guys know?
It works, as does my Moto 850ma block. Not sure if it is faster though.
alphadog00 said:
It works, as does my Moto 850ma block. Not sure if it is faster though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I'm curious to know because my phone thinks it's connected to a PC and mounts my SD cards!
So it's thinking it's charging USB when it should be AC power...
Is there any way for us to monitor the Amps?
SlimJ87D said:
Yeah, I'm curious to know because my phone thinks it's connected to a PC and mounts my SD cards!
So it's thinking it's charging USB when it should be AC power...
Is there any way for us to monitor the Amps?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
same here , i dint realise that until i saw your post was wondering why it was doing that duh!!
yeah same thing hapens to me lol, does it rly matter if its charging USB power vs AC power?
SlimJ87D said:
Yeah, I'm curious to know because my phone thinks it's connected to a PC and mounts my SD cards!
So it's thinking it's charging USB when it should be AC power...
Is there any way for us to monitor the Amps?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this has been the only problem i've had as well. happens with a power strip i use that has usb ports to charge as well. very weird.
I just watched a video on hacking a self-built battery charger - the mintyUSB one where you use an Altoids Tin. It has a USB female port and hold 2 AA batteries. Well, they just put out a new way so it charges an iPhone. What apple does is put voltage on the 2 data lines and the phone detects this and thinks it a USB port. Most chargers don't put any current on these lines.
If it thinks it is on a USB port, it will draw a lower current.
so having a lower current just prolongs the charging process correct?
SiL3nTKiLL said:
so having a lower current just prolongs the charging process correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Correct. But next time you have some spare time, try connecting your phone to a USB port and seeing how long it takes to charge.
It took my phone over an hour to go up three percent.
I've used the iPhone charger with the Captivate and it really doesn't charge any faster and honestly seems slower, it also really heats up the phone a lot more than the stock charger does.
When I plug the phone into my computer, it tells me it's only using 96mA (device manager) and charges faster than the iPhone charger does...
Well there we have it guys!
The iPhone charger is a no no! Because of those stupid pins...
I have a Mini USB charger that does 1AMP, I'm just going to buy a Micro USB to Mini USB adapter.
I use mine all the time. No problems.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
ive been using the apple charging block and it seems to charge a bit faster
If you look closely on the AC plugin side of the iphone plug you will see it says it outputs 5V at 1A (1000mA). If you do some searching online for wall chargers you will see that the outputs for chargers range from DC 4.5V-9.5V at Max 800mA-1A. The iPhone charger should be fine with the captivate. I have been using the iPhone charging block for my phone and haven't had any problems.
i experienced a little problem where upon use of the apple charger, my phone would act like it was charging OVER USB.
you can verify how its charging by going into settings > about phone. on the normal samsung charger (.7A), it'll say "charging AC", however use of the apple charger prompted the phone to say "charging USB". in fact, i could even bring up the prompt to "mount" my sd card (even though its plugged into the wall).
not sure if the prob was just limited to me or to everyone
I get the same popup but it still charges...I don't think it hurts anything. The phone is just confused.
In the past, a lot of smartphones will fail to charge the battery on USB mode if the battery is critically low (< 20%) because they need > 500ma to initiate the charge process in that situation. So, even though your phone can still get trickle charges from USB mode, it won't charge at all when you really need it. Not sure if it is still true for Captivate. Make sure you test it out before you leave home without the stock AC adapter.
well the type of charging that the phone thinks its on versus how you're actually doing it could play a difference. if i recall usb can only charge maximum .5A, while on AC it can go up to 1A or higher. So if the phone thinks its on USB, it may artificially limit the charge so it takes even longer.
I just decided to go back to the regular samsung charger, it seemed a tiny bit faster. still dont understand why samsung didn't give us a 1A charger
littleasian said:
well the type of charging that the phone thinks its on versus how you're actually doing it could play a difference. if i recall usb can only charge maximum .5A, while on AC it can go up to 1A or higher. So if the phone thinks its on USB, it may artificially limit the charge so it takes even longer.
I just decided to go back to the regular samsung charger, it seemed a tiny bit faster. still dont understand why samsung didn't give us a 1A charger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the USB standard provides 500mA per port, but most charging ports short the data +/- pins which allows the device to enter dedicated charging port mode. This can allow for up to 1.8A, though most are capped at somewhere around half of that.
If the D+/- pins are not shorted the device will assume a data connection and will default to 500mA for charging. This could also be why some people are seeing that their phone will display options to mount drives when plugged into charger.
Battlehymn said:
Yes, the USB standard provides 500mA per port, but most charging ports short the data +/- pins which allows the device to enter dedicated charging port mode. This can allow for up to 1.8A, though most are capped at somewhere around half of that.
If the D+/- pins are not shorted the device will assume a data connection and will default to 500mA for charging. This could also be why some people are seeing that their phone will display options to mount drives when plugged into charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is actually very insightful and makes perfect sense. Because Apple uses resistors to set voltages across D+/- pins, the phone won't recognize the wall charger as what it is and will only pull the 500mA that it thinks the "USB port" can provide.
Does anybody know a really working replacement charger for the Galaxy S?
I have tried different models but all are not recognized as original charger so the Galaxy is only charging with 500mA.
The Galaxy S does somehow check if it is an original charger and only than switches into charging mode.
You can easily verify this. Just connect your phone with the charger, open the task list. If you see the USB choices menu the phone is in PC mode and only charges with 500mA.
2000 mAh (2A) charger
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.25177
this if you like windshield mount
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.42602
or this if you like air vent mount (i tilt it horizontally, it's more secure and works better with SGS)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.37823
it actually can use both, vent and/or windshield
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So you use this charger and it switches the SGS to charging mode. That is good news. All chargers I tried only charged with 500mA alltough they were stated with 2000mA or 1200mA.
How long does it take to fully charge the SGS?
that's the one i use in my car, charging varies depending on use
on short drives it will keep your battery from draing (unlike the 500mAh ones)
on long drives like at least an hour or two can charge a few bars meanwhile keeping GPS on, Bluetooth On, 3G/H data On, Screen On
on long road trips the battery will be fully charged.
but if you were using a 500mAh your battery will be completely sucked dry, on 1000mAh it can keep everything running, but battery might not be at full
Does anyone know why the standard Samsung charger outputs so low? :S
I'm just wondering if they did that for a reason like the phone can't handle too much power
it's rather cost cutting, all phone chargers i've ever had from included items were always around 500mAh
The mains charger I use seems to work the same as my official one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300435855427
My car charger comes up with pc mode though which as you say probably means it isn't charging properly (I notice that the charge is about the same when I finish my journey as when I started if I use gps)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370391436219
Is there a way to tell how well it is charging? I'm guessing if it thinks it is connecting to pc then it won't charge properly
you can use a battery app to monitor the mAh in the battery
if it charges as you consume, then the mAh should keep going up
but if the mAh keeps going down, then the charger is obviously not providing enough power
badasschris said:
The mains charger I use seems to work the same as my official one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300435855427
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info.
What are the specifications of this charger (how many mA)?
badasschris said:
Is there a way to tell how well it is charging? I'm guessing if it thinks it is connecting to pc then it won't charge properly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately not really.
There is an widget (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=723217), but it is not working for the Galaxy.
yes can someone post a decent charger and car charger (preferably on ebay) that charges at a faster rate, the supplied usb cable takes forever to charge my i9000!
I use a mUSB car charger made by Rocketfish (Best Buy brand). Works well, doesn't show "USB Plugged". Was charging pretty quickly even though I had GPS on and Navigation running, which drains battery pretty quickly normally.
TDO said:
Does anybody know a really working replacement charger for the Galaxy S?
I have tried different models but all are not recognized as original charger so the Galaxy is only charging with 500mA.
The Galaxy S does somehow check if it is an original charger and only than switches into charging mode.
You can easily verify this. Just connect your phone with the charger, open the task list. If you see the USB choices menu the phone is in PC mode and only charges with 500mA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using the original charger on a US Vibrant (700mA) and I can still see the USB choices menu.
Is there any other way to check on how much current the Vibrant is using to charge? I have a 1A car and wall charger, but there is no way to tell if they are using 1A or not.
i'm using a max output:1.0A charger works fine. It is a power supply from my old phone which is an adapter with a USB port so i just plugin the galaxy's usb cable and charging happens very fast.
tommy34 said:
i'm using a max output:1.0A charger works fine. It is a power supply from my old phone which is an adapter with a USB port so i just plugin the galaxy's usb cable and charging happens very fast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you try this in your car with the screen on full brightness and running GPS software? Important to note because all of these chargers work fine when the phone is sleeping or even idling, but when you throw in full screen brightness, tax the cpu/gpu with software, and use the GPS and radios for triangulation for location data, thats when the power consumption overwhelms the charger.
There's some good information on measuring amperage usage of different chargers in this thread in the Vibrant forum:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=7704900&postcount=15
Apparently you can read the current charge your phone is pulling by going to this file on your phone:
/sys/class/power_supply/battery/batt_chg_current
So under the same load conditions (screen brightness, GPS enabled, GPS software running, approximately battery charge level) you should be able to compare how much amperage the phone is able to pull on any given charger.
AllGamer said:
that's the one i use in my car, charging varies depending on use
on short drives it will keep your battery from draing (unlike the 500mAh ones)
on long drives like at least an hour or two can charge a few bars meanwhile keeping GPS on, Bluetooth On, 3G/H data On, Screen On
on long road trips the battery will be fully charged.
but if you were using a 500mAh your battery will be completely sucked dry, on 1000mAh it can keep everything running, but battery might not be at full
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So is this with the 2000mah charger you linked?:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.25177
Could you give us some measured numbers, that would be so helpful!
Does anyone know if our phones will stop charging when the battery is full? Do we need chargers with IC chips or will the phone take care of it? I mentioned this in the vibrant forum, but my old dumphones required smart chargers as dumb quick chargers would keep charging away killing the battery, but my Dell Axim PDA was smart enough to shut off charging when full itself.
I'm thinking of getting the 2000mah charger linked previously, but I'm concerned because I haven't been able to determine if it has an IC chip in it, but I don't know if we even need that with our phones.
If we need smart chargers im considering this:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.40470
Someone in the reviews measured it at 1.1amps and noted it has a decent IC chip.
Android automatically stops charging if it THINKS the batter is full
see this topic
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=722862
it's more of a nuisance than a good safety feature
also in another topic we found that if your phone is bricked, it will not charge the battery, because there is no OS to handle the charging.
AllGamer said:
Android automatically stops charging if it THINKS the batter is full
see this topic
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=722862
it's more of a nuisance than a good safety feature
also in another topic we found that if your phone is bricked, it will not charge the battery, because there is no OS to handle the charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! Looks like the phone regulates charging itself, and works well enough so long as it doesnt get out of calibration (by you flashing the phone when not at 100% =D) Do you happen to know if it will continue to regulate and stop charging even when the phone is completely turned off? I guess the question is if the android system in charge of this still runs when the main OS is turned off.
Otherwise, for the purposes of our thread, looks like using a 2000mah quick car charger without a verified IC chip should be fine!
As far as i know the 2000mAh charger that I'm using has a build in IC chip (most car chargers now in day has one) as well, but it's hard to tell, unless we can remove the auto safety feature of Android in the SGS.
AllGamer said:
As far as i know the 2000mAh charger that I'm using has a build in IC chip (most car chargers now in day has one) as well, but it's hard to tell, unless we can remove the auto safety feature of Android in the SGS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well you could crack it open and see whats inside =P but I don't that is necessary since we're covered either way, our phones can regulate the charge regardless.
Thanks!
btw i would still LOVE it if you had a chance to see what value you see in /sys/class/power_supply/battery/batt_chg_current when using the 2000 mah charger.
Hi everyone,
So I bought a Belkin 2.1A car charger from ebay for my Nexus 5 like this one:
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But during my various car trips using Google Maps sat nav I've noticed that the battery percentage was going down rather than up. I was very suprised as I thought that 2.1A would be enough to handle the battery consumption while also charging the device. After checking the stock AC charger I have noticed it's only rated for 1.2A, so the car charger charging problem surely must be another I thought.
By looking on the internet I've read that people were having charging issues because the device was recognizing the charger as an USB port so charging was limited to only 0.5A.
After a bit of further searching I found that the stock AC charger uses a shorted circuit on the data pins to make the phone recognize it as an AC charger. I went back to the car and tried the stock cable on the Belkin charger and in Settings->Battery it showed Charging (USB). Ok I said, then this must be the problem, I ended up building my own "Fast charge" cable by shorting the data wires on the Micro USB side. Trying again this time the phone showed as Charging (AC). I since tried the charger but without any success, the percentage was still going down while in use.
Today, I went into the Electronic lab of my University, and I've tried to check the Amps that were going through the phone (I have seen some videos on youtube of apps that show charging amps, but they all looked very wrong, like 8Amps or more). I believe I have finally found the reason of the slow charging or not charging:
The charging current is only 0.2A, far less than an USB port, and far far less of what is required to charge the phone wile the sat nav is going. I have tried both fast charge and stock usb cables but it still displayed the same exact current.
I don't know what to do next? Have any of you had any success in charging while using the sat nav (and 3g, bluetooth, nfc, ecc)?
Please forgive me if I am not understanding your post.
iltrevi said:
The charging current is only 0.2A...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Because it's defective?
iltrevi said:
I have tried both fast charge and stock usb cables...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What about a different charger?
iltrevi said:
Have any of you had any success in charging while using the sat nav (and 3g, bluetooth, nfc, ecc)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have used several different chargers without issue.
PhilipTD said:
Please forgive me if I am not understanding your post.
Because it's defective?
What about a different charger?
I have used several different chargers without issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could be the charger that is detective, but after all thats what im trying to find out, or is it a compatibility issue with nexus 5? If the charger was defective wouldn't it be not charging at all?
Different charger? I don't have a different charger, that's why I bought this one, why shouldnt this be working if there's stated 2.1amp
OK thanks for advice, but I'd like to get this working, have you had any experience with this charger as well?
Never used that charger.
A defective charger may very well be slow, rather than dead.
I just thought that it might be a good idea to test a friend's charger in your car in order to eliminate the possibility that the socket/feed is malfunctioning. Or, even better, would be to use a current tester on the socket.
Ma, che ne so?
I'm using exactly the same Belkin charger in my Ford and it works properly while navigation is on. However, I don't charge and keep navigating frequently so can't shed more light on this!
I have had quite a few car-chargers (mostly cheap ones) , and the amount of current they provide compared to what they promised varies alot.
Haven't tried the belkin one, as I needed more than 1 usb port.
Currently i'm using
...://dx.com/p/star-go-st-06-aircraft-shaped-5v-4100ma-usb-4-port-car-charger-black-12-24v-290123#.UxSYQ3VdWlg
And it charges my nexus 5 with screen always on and my Samsung tab 3 running sygic.
(even need 10 posts for a link...)
I've been testing chargers extensively. What I have seen is actually scary.
The worst one was sold on ebay and was marked as a 3.1A capable device. When I hooked it up to a 12V source and connected the output to a scope I saw a triangle like DC output varying between 4.7 and 5.7Volts which is out of USB specs, meaning could damage your device.
The 2 other ones that I own are a lot better after modifying capacitors etc. but I gave up on that front.
I also tested a Belkin marked one that was supposed to be able to provide 1A but it only managed 0.8A and after 15min it died. Fake, no doubt about it.
Since I had a cigarette lighter plug in my drawer I made my own charger that is very DC clean and can provide more than enough juice to charge.
I use these modules http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7V-24V-to..._Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item4179d0059e
You can connect the 2 middle pins and my N5 draws 1.4A peak.
To be sure there is a 2A fuse in the cigarette lighter plug and a Transient-voltage-suppression diode connected over the 5V USB output so in case the convertor goes belly up and goes to 12V the 5.8V diode will kill the fuse in an instant.
That convertor is extreemly clean stable and has a very high efficiency so it will not even get close to getting warm when charging high speed.
Some people spend a fortune on cases and screen protectors but want the cheapest possible 12V to USB. I made this for like 6€ or $9 and I guarantee you nothing comes close that is on the market.
lukesan said:
To be sure there is a 2A fuse in the cigarette lighter plug and a Transient-voltage-suppression diode connected over the 5V USB output so in case the convertor goes belly up and goes to 12V the 5.8V diode will kill the fuse in an instant.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you put the 2A fuse in the car fusebox? or between the jack and your converter? Had not thought about making one myself
bakxsteen said:
Did you put the 2A fuse in the car fusebox? or between the jack and your converter? Had not thought about making one myself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a 2A fast (snelle ) fuse in that cigarette lighter plugin itself. So the module is capable of delivering 3A constant at 5.1V. Since the N5 nor a Note 3 will go above 2A charging, and the efficiency is >85%, I am secure on that front.
Since I see you are from Delft there should be an action shop in your area. They sell 2 port 2.1A capable car chargers (black and white) for like 3€ which are actually not bad at all. I only insist on those diodes that you can buy on ebay. They cost a couple of € but rather that than smoke out of your device.
I have about 8 of those modules now since they are so universal.
A couple of examples. An old laptop charger 15V 6A, cut the connector and hooked up the modules got all my usb devices charged in Africa.
1 is hooked up to a RC helicopter batt that is mounted on my bike and delivers around 11.1V and then goes to that module so I can charge and use GPS on the bike for hours.
Cheers for the info, coincidentally I have been looking for a way to power my raspberry pi in my 12-volt speaker set. This will make that a lot easier as well.
lukesan said:
I've been testing chargers extensively. What I have seen is actually scary.
The worst one was sold on ebay and was marked as a 3.1A capable device. When I hooked it up to a 12V source and connected the output to a scope I saw a triangle like DC output varying between 4.7 and 5.7Volts which is out of USB specs, meaning could damage your device.
The 2 other ones that I own are a lot better after modifying capacitors etc. but I gave up on that front.
I also tested a Belkin marked one that was supposed to be able to provide 1A but it only managed 0.8A and after 15min it died. Fake, no doubt about it.
Since I had a cigarette lighter plug in my drawer I made my own charger that is very DC clean and can provide more than enough juice to charge.
I use these modules http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7V-24V-to..._Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item4179d0059e
You can connect the 2 middle pins and my N5 draws 1.4A peak.
To be sure there is a 2A fuse in the cigarette lighter plug and a Transient-voltage-suppression diode connected over the 5V USB output so in case the convertor goes belly up and goes to 12V the 5.8V diode will kill the fuse in an instant.
That convertor is extreemly clean stable and has a very high efficiency so it will not even get close to getting warm when charging high speed.
Some people spend a fortune on cases and screen protectors but want the cheapest possible 12V to USB. I made this for like 6€ or $9 and I guarantee you nothing comes close that is on the market.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very interesting! Can you post some picture of the actual charger you made? How did you add the transient voltage suppression diode?
Btw I will try to short the data pins also on the USB side and see if it makes any difference, apparently things like this one short both sides: http://www.amazon.co.uk/PortaPow-Fa...8&qid=1393861403&sr=8-12&keywords=fast+charge
iltrevi said:
Very interesting! Can you post some picture of the actual charger you made? How did you add the transient voltage suppression diode?
Btw I will try to short the data pins also on the USB side and see if it makes any difference, apparently things like this one short both sides:
HTML:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/PortaPow-Fast-Charger-iPhone-Blackberry/dp/B00GC4AJOU/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1393861403&sr=8-12&keywords=fast+charge
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Difficult to show since it is sort of build in the car.
The module is plug and play. Hook up + and - (screwdriver thing so no soldering required) and the USB connector is already on the pcb board. Extreemly easy. Plug and play.
The diode is not big at all and is soldered on the back of the pcb. There are soldering points.
After that mod, diode and shorten data leads, I use that yellowish heat resistant tape around the pcb so it does not touch any metal parts or shorten anything. I've been using it in Arizona summer weather conditions and it is perfect.
lukesan said:
Difficult to show since it is sort of build in the car.
The module is plug and play. Hook up + and - (screwdriver thing so no soldering required) and the USB connector is already on the pcb board. Extreemly easy. Plug and play.
The diode is not big at all and is soldered on the back of the pcb. There are soldering points.
After that mod, diode and shorten data leads, I use that yellowish heat resistant tape around the pcb so it does not touch any metal parts or shorten anything. I've been using it in Arizona summer weather conditions and it is perfect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, thanks. I think if I can't get another car socket charger to work this will be the path I will take.
Anyway I just tried shorting the USB side to see if this made any difference to the Belkin charger but it looks like nothing changed. I also tried shorting both data sides all together but that didn't change things either. I'm guessing the charger could be actually defective, I will try to get a replacement and see if that works better.
Why doesn't Google makes it own car charger and avoids all this messing about to find one that works.
iltrevi said:
Why doesn't Google makes it own car charger and avoids all this messing about to find one that works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You would think it would be in their interest as well, I imaging a lot of people will blame the phone.
bakxsteen said:
You would think it would be in their interest as well, I imaging a lot of people will blame the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is another nice tool that I use. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Portabl...uter_Power_Supply_Testers&hash=item485a80ba76
You don't see if the output is clean but you get a good view on what is going on and the Voltage and Current readout is pretty accurate.
Just added 2 pics. This one I use when cycling. You can see an added resistor but it has no use since it ups the Voltage to 5.2V (just a test thing). On the back you can see that the data lines are connected and that special diode is soldered over the 5V pins.
The reason why this one isn't fully insulated with tape is that this one is my test one so I leave it open to test.
No need to fully insulate it since it goes in a weatherproof non conductive bag with the battery.
bakxsteen said:
Cheers for the info, coincidentally I have been looking for a way to power my raspberry pi in my 12-volt speaker set. This will make that a lot easier as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol, actually I have one of these modules connected to my Harmon Cardon speakers which are connected to my flatscreen.
My Raspberry is on 24/7 for like 10 months now. No stability, heat issues at all.
Just another thing which is extremely important is the USB cable itself. I've seen some really strange things.
For example now I am testing an Anker 40W 5-port USB charger that I bought on Amazon. It features 'smart' technology to see what is connected and then place everything in quick charge.
I found the idea super, but they've already had to refund me after a couple of tests.
The thing is right in front of me now and I have that USB tester thing to measure current and 3 different cables. 1 HTC, 1 from a Jawbone headset and a Sony one. The original cable is at home.
Ok so the phone was at 60% batt which means it should still charge at full speed if possible. The HTC and Jawbone cable on the Anker did not pass 0.8A and the Sony (looking at it now) 0.92A. Voltage seems like 5.08V which is measured at the adapter and not the phone.
So 1 get that USB tool thing for a couple of € $ and actually see what is happening instead of guessing. I am really happy with it.
If you want me to do any tests of have questions feel free to ask. We, and I, can always learn from each other and there is no such thing as a stupid question to me.
lukesan said:
Just another thing which is extremely important is the USB cable itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe USB cables and USB cables impendance as I've read somewhere are important only when charging the device with the data pins "enabled". As for Galaxy SI and SII chargers which used a fixed micro usb charging cable which was very thin, I belive that once data pins are shorted it doesn't matter anymore if you are using a very thick top quality cable or a ebay chinese cable, the phone will always pull as the same current.
Anyone correct me if I'm wrong.
iltrevi said:
I believe USB cables and USB cables impendance as I've read somewhere are important only when charging the device with the data pins "enabled". As for Galaxy SI and SII chargers which used a fixed micro usb charging cable which was very thin, I belive that once data pins are shorted it doesn't matter anymore if you are using a very thick top quality cable or a ebay chinese cable, the phone will always pull as the same current.
Anyone correct me if I'm wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I also did some tests on that front. Supplying 5V and putting a resistor 5.1 Ohm on the other side so it draws approx 1 Amp. It's very scary to see some cables go flat on their belly.
I had one which measured about 4.3V with that resistor on the other side, so massive loss in the cable and/or connector. If you take into account that the charging circuit efficiency is also not 100% it can have a big effect on the charging speed. Remember these batts at 100% charge are at 4.2V.
The S1 charges at about 0.65A and an S2 at 0.7A max (limited by the charging circuit) so using these devices as GPS in the car is tricky since screen and gps app on .... and you are at approx these values.
I was thinking about buying my own connectors and soldering 2 'thicker' cables to the connectors. You can shortcut the data-lines on the micro usb so no harm done when plugging into a pc. But how far do I go in this I ask myself.
Resurrecting this thread because I'm having a similar issue, I have a Belkin 2.1Amp charger that's capable of charging an iPad at 2.1 amp (and I've tested it in the past and it charges appropriately, and is able to charge an iPhone very rapidly as well) as well as another 1A USB charger and the Nexus 5 barely charges with either-it charges very slowly even when I have GPS shut off-I've charged it for an hour before and it'll maybe get 10% which is absurd. It's pretty clear that whatever high-amp pinning they have is meant more for iPads and the Nexus 5 isn't seeing these chargers as high speed chargers, does anybody know of a charger where they've had good success with the Nexus 5 to rapidly charge it?
I plugged my OPO charger (and red lead) to the OPO at 21% battery, so far this is the charge progress:
21% 6.04pm
36% 7.04pm
63% 8.45pm
76% 9.35pm
At this rate it'll be done 10.45pm I think - nearly 5 hours.
Should it be taking this long?
It shouldn't be taking that long to charge, mines take at least 1 hour. Charges very fast.
Are you using the stock red wall charger as well as the red usb cable supplied by OnePlus?
Ensure that in settings -> about phone that it says Charging (AC) and not Charging (USB)
Be sure that you plugged the USB cable all the way in and that its not loose.
zephiK said:
It shouldn't be taking that long to charge, mines take at least 1 hour. Charges very fast.
Are you using the stock red wall charger as well as the red usb cable supplied by OnePlus?
Ensure that in settings -> about phone that it says Charging (AC) and not Charging (USB)
Be sure that you plugged the USB cable all the way in and that its not loose.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Says Charging (AC). All cables are fitted securely, only thing is having to use a 2 to 3-pin adapter for UK sockets but that seems unlikely to be at fault?
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Salty Wagyu said:
Says Charging (AC). All cables are fitted securely, only thing is having to use a 2 to 3-pin adapter for UK sockets but that seems unlikely to be at fault?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same charger and cable (i'm from Italy) and my telehone charges quite fast. I have to suspect that indeed the adaptor is the culprit here.
I hope it isn't a phone fault at least, wouldn't want to attempt to get a replacement. Battery life on the other hand is pretty great though.
Salty Wagyu said:
I hope it isn't a phone fault at least, wouldn't want to attempt to get a replacement. Battery life on the other hand is pretty great though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try another cable to make sure it's not the cable. If the issue persists, open a ticket with Oneplus as your charger may be defective.
I don't recommend continued use of said charger until it has been cleared or replaced. While highly unlikely, a defective product can cause issues such as overheating or damaging attached devices.
Are other short cables ok to try? I remember reading the cable has to be a certain AWG, so I don't know if my Nexus 7 & 4 cable will do.
Get rid of the adapter. I tested it with and without and with the adapter and with it the phone charged at 1% per 2.5 minutes and without it the phone charged at 1% per minute.
All you need to do is shove something into the top(earth) pin of the socket and you can then just plug the 2 pin plug into the UK socket.
GTCC said:
Get rid of the adapter. I tested it with and without and with the adapter and with it the phone charged at 1% per 2.5 minutes and without it the phone charged at 1% per minute.
All you need to do is shove something into the top(earth) pin of the socket and you can then just plug the 2 pin plug into the UK socket.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Intriguing, that doesn't sound safe though!
edit: Actually the 2 pins don't seem to fit at all in the bottom 2 slots of my 3-pin socket. The holes are too wide apart.
I was going to buy an Anker 5-way USB charging station with 2.4A in each slot, this should solve the issue I guess.
Why is it not safe? The top pin is only an earth and it not even used in a lot of cases, it main use is to move the shield over the 2 bottom pins. That's why the top pin is longer than the bottom two.
---------- Post added at 12:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:05 AM ----------
Salty Wagyu said:
Intriguing, that doesn't sound safe though!
edit: Actually the 2 pins don't seem to fit at all in the bottom 2 slots of my 3-pin socket. The holes are too wide apart.
I was going to buy an Anker 5-way USB charging station with 2.4A in each slot, this should solve the issue I guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They will fit, you just need to slightly force them.
GTCC said:
Why is it not safe? The top pin is only an earth and it not even used in a lot of cases, it main use is to move the shield over the 2 bottom pins. That's why the top pin is longer than the bottom two.
---------- Post added at 12:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:05 AM ----------
They will fit, you just need to slightly force them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I got it in, was a bit awkward shoving some pliers in the top slot. Still not happy with the solution tho I'll see how fast it charges once I manage to drain phone
Salty Wagyu said:
Well I got it in, was a bit awkward shoving some pliers in the top slot. Still not happy with the solution tho I'll see how fast it charges once I manage to drain phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats going to take awhile to drain your phone
Try downloading a app that measures your charging rate as well. You can compare and contrast the different combinations of usb cable/charger/etc as well as someone else who charges fast can compare with your charging rate.
zephiK said:
Thats going to take awhile to drain your phone
Try downloading a app that measures your charging rate as well. You can compare and contrast the different combinations of usb cable/charger/etc as well as someone else who charges fast can compare with your charging rate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try this one out https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ccc71.bmw
Salty Wagyu said:
Says Charging (AC). All cables are fitted securely, only thing is having to use a 2 to 3-pin adapter for UK sockets but that seems unlikely to be at fault?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The adapter that you have brought whats the AMP is it outputing , i had the same issue , since i live in europe and have to use the adapter to charge the phone the first one i brought emits only 1 AMP by the adapter , then i went to the store back and asked him to provide me the adapter which has higher amp output , the store keeper gave me the 13 amp one ( the highest as he says ) and now it charges much faster within one hour ...
I would recommend to go and get the 13 AMP adapter and then plug in your charger ...
Moreover as i see the phone charger is not the same has i have , mine is square and yours in a different shape , is that original charger from OPO , if not please check the chargers amp output it should be 2 amp as per the OPO charger rating , else you would have a slow charge ,,,
fai28683 said:
The adapter that you have brought whats the AMP is it outputing , i had the same issue , since i live in europe and have to use the adapter to charge the phone the first one i brought emits only 1 AMP by the adapter , then i went to the store back and asked him to provide me the adapter which has higher amp output , the store keeper gave me the 13 amp one ( the highest as he says ) and now it charges much faster within one hour ...
I would recommend to go and get the 13 AMP adapter and then plug in your charger ...
Moreover as i see the phone charger is not the same has i have , mine is square and yours in a different shape , is that original charger from OPO , if not please check the chargers amp output it should be 2 amp as per the OPO charger rating , else you would have a slow charge ,,,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know how to measure Amps coming in, everything I'm holding in that photo is all OPO-made, even the 3-pin adapter came included with the phone.
Either way I've stopped using it and deemed the adapter as faulty. I'm using my Nexus 7 charger now, it only outputs 2A rather than the needed 2.1A but it'll do, it charged my phone up fully in an hour and half this time.
Salty Wagyu said:
I don't know how to measure Amps coming in, everything I'm holding in that photo is all OPO-made, even the 3-pin adapter came included with the phone.
Either way I've stopped using it, and used my Nexus 7 charger instead. It only outputs 2A rather than the needed 2.1A but it'll do, it charged my phone up fully in an hour and half this time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Regarding the amp output by the adapter , it should be posted on the box that came with it .
And if the OPO official charger is not charging with the best speed , then it should be a faulty charger .
ANyways good to know you have the solution to the problem
Cheers buddy ...
fai28683 said:
Regarding the amp output by the adapter , it should be posted on the box that came with it .
And if the OPO official charger is not charging with the best speed , then it should be a faulty charger .
ANyways good to know you have the solution to the problem
Cheers buddy ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh the bit where the USB cable goes into? That says 5V~2100mA. Think I should pursue an RMA on the charger only?
Salty Wagyu said:
Oh the bit where the USB cable goes into? That says 5V~2100mA. Think I should pursue an RMA on the charger only?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The charger which the USB cables goes in as per my OPO charger is 5V / 2A ( which seems also okie in your case ).
The adapter that your charger plugs to connect to wall socket should be 250V / 13A.
Last night I left my OPO to charge when it was at 11%, OPO supplied charger but amazon kindle usb cable (I love them for some reason, have several). After about 7 hour it was at 91%.
Plugged into my Samsung charger (supplied with a Galaxy Note 10.1 tablet) and the same cable, normal (quick) charging.
I fear the adapter that OPO supplied may have been of sub par quality and has deteriorated.
Also, I checked the battery settings while it was charging, it mentioned AC.
I'll plug my tablet in the OPO charger just to make sure
My charger has been charging my phone quite fast as it did since Day 1. Could it have something to do with European chargers?
The LG V10 does support Qualcomm 2.0 Fast Charging. Here are the models of Batteries, Car Chargers and Wall Chargers that I have tested and confirmed that work with the V10 . I will include some video reviews as well.
MOD Edit: Referral links not allowed and have been removed
So do you need a new charger that supports fast charging, and any micro USB cable will do?
Does the charger that comes with the phone support fast charge?
yes, the charger that comes with the V10 is a quick charge and most micro USB cables (should) work with the quick chargers.
The Samsung adaptive quick charger from the S6/Note 5 seems to be working well. Just an FYI if anyone has one laying around.
Tronsmart said:
Not all of the micro usb cable will support quick charge. you need the cable which support charging and data sync together.
The quick charge 2.0 technology need to transfer/communicate the signal from the charger to the smartphone. some cheap micro usb cable which just have the charging function won't work on qc2.0 chargers.
also the 20awg cable help to transfer high current, see the explanation from wiki:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge
here is a sample photos for our cable:
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and here is another explanation from reddit:
https://www.reddit.com/r/LifeProTip..._know_why_your_smartphone_is_charging_slowly/
hope it is helpful.
All of our chargers are qualocmm certified, and all of our cables are made for quick charge.
Tronsmart
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I am trying to look back at where I got my cable now. This is the heavier duty, longer cable I use. It says in the description a few different things that makes me think it is compatible. I guess I'll find out for sure when I get the device in my hands.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OCDZQA0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00
Edit: I did find out that it does support quick charge, so I'm all good!
FYI I would reccommend this cable if you are looking for a longer cable that is heavy duty. I am sure most have used Anker products in the past, the quality is present in this product as well, I have had mine for close to a year with no issues.
I love Anker product, such high quality! The dual port car charger supplied 2 amps per port. The desk charger supplies 2amps per port over 5 ports and over the last year I've purchased 40+ usb cables in varying legnths. 10ft - 1ft. Connections are always snug and no wiggle on my phones. I keep giving these things away when a co worker needs a cable, they always notice that their device charges faster, especially if they no longer have the oem cable.
Quick Charge not compatible with charge-only cable
In order to prevent data theft I prefer to use a charge-only cable when plugging my phone into any port outside my home.
According to Qualcomm, Quick Charge 2.0 is designed to be connector-independent and is designed to minimize charging issues associated with long or thin cables, allowing for a superior charging experience, independent of cable type.
However, since the high-efficiency transfer of electricity requires the D+/D- data lines for effective handshaking and communication, it will not work with a charge-only cable.
I have to say the quick charge lg charger still takes twice as long as my note 4 edge to charge...
Other than stock cable, PNY cable works pretty well especially with Anker 8A intelligent charger.
drocksmash said:
I have to say the quick charge lg charger still takes twice as long as my note 4 edge to charge...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With screen off or you looking at it checking? The lg g4 turns off qc while screen is on. Perhaps the v10 does the same.
clockcycle said:
With screen off or you looking at it checking? The lg g4 turns off qc while screen is on. Perhaps the v10 does the same.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine enables fast charge no matter if screen is on or not.
Matt
CoNsPiRiSiZe said:
Mine enables fast charge no matter if screen is on or not.
Matt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does it actually fast charge while screen is on? the LG g4 doesn't, that would be great news.
clockcycle said:
Does it actually fast charge while screen is on? the LG g4 doesn't, that would be great news.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't noticed any significant difference between screen on or off.. Don't quote me I've had the phone less than 3 days.
Matt
CoNsPiRiSiZe said:
I haven't noticed any significant difference between screen on or off.. Don't quote me I've had the phone less than 3 days.
Matt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK I see, humm try installing the app Ampere, it shows charge/discharge. It isn't exact but it gives a reference.
Will do.
Matt
I can say without a doubt charging with the Samsung quick charger from the S6/Note5 charges the V10 faster than the LG quick charger. Luckily I have several around the house.
mikeyinid said:
I can say without a doubt charging with the Samsung quick charger from the S6/Note5 charges the V10 faster than the LG quick charger. Luckily I have several around the house.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that is due to the fact that the LG charges at 2.0 vs the Sammy.
I'll have to pick up an aftermarket charger on Amazon or something. Anyone recommend one that they use with a higher charging rate than the LG one?
Matt
something i found out bay accdent is it doesnt always fast charge. its not an option to turn it off but from what i can tell if your phone is to hot when pluged in it just does a normal charge. greatest thing ever
and i did try it on two chargers that have fast charge the one in the box and the note 4 charger but it didnt start the fast charge. once the phone was cool i actually unpluged to go somewhere came back ten minutes later pluged in and there it was fast chargeing.
In response to @clockcycle
It appears though it may charge faster than normal charging methods with screen on, that it almost quadrupled charging rate with screen off according to Ampere.
Take it for what it's worth, I am not sure how accurate it is, that second screenshot was taken just after turning the screen back on, where it proceeded to recalculate and then displayed around 700 again.
CoNsPiRiSiZe said:
In response to @clockcycle
It appears though it may charge faster than normal charging methods with screen on, that it almost quadrupled charging rate with screen off according to Ampere.
Take it for what it's worth, I am not sure how accurate it is, that second screenshot was taken just after turning the screen back on, where it proceeded to recalculate and then displayed around 700 again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome thanks for testing that, it seems to be just like the LG G4 but slightly higher (500 screen on, 2200 screen off). Ampere is a guestimate, but I use USB Doctor sleeves to verify. What charger did you use to test?
Edit: according to your screen shots, they were 2 mins apart, you went from 8% to 11%, gained 3%~