Hello, I'm a N8000 user. I'm facing a problem with my charging issue where my tab take a long time to charge and it takes 10 hours to get from 0-60 %. FYI, I'm using a custom rom CM 10.2. What is the main cause with the charging issue? Does it related with charging port, battery or charger itself? please help me. I'm stuck now.
[QUOTE8=syafix21;50085752]Hello, I'm a N8000 user. I'm facing a problem with my charging issue where my tab take a long time to charge and it takes 10 hours to get from 0-60 %. FYI, I'm using a custom rom CM 10.2. What is the main cause with the charging issue? Does it related with charging port, battery or charger itself? please help me. I'm stuck now.[/QUOTE]
Charger maybe, but most on here get a new factory cabel and that takes care of it.
syafix21 said:
Hello, I'm a N8000 user. I'm facing a problem with my charging issue where my tab take a long time to charge and it takes 10 hours to get from 0-60 %. FYI, I'm using a custom rom CM 10.2. What is the main cause with the charging issue? Does it related with charging port, battery or charger itself? please help me. I'm stuck now.
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Many similar thread already here & also the solutions.
But let me answer anyway.
Charging problem occurs because of one or more things:
Broken Cable
Broken Charger
Incompatible Cable
Incompatible Charger
Broken Outlet
Broken Charging Port
Broken Battery
To properly charging a N80XX we need a charger & cable that can deliver 2.1A, 5V of electrical current & voltage.
The factory default/initial charger & cable designed to deliver these requirements.
Using custom/cheap cable or cable extension can cause charging problem as it wasn't designed to deliver the required current & voltage.
Most custom cables & chargers on the market designed only to deliver 500mA(0.5A) - 1A, 5V.
Broken cable/charger can also cause it to fail in delivering 2.1A, 5V to the device.
Try another original cable/charger combination to test if one of them or both are broken.
Also try another electrical wall outlet to see if the outlet is the culprit.
For Broken Charging Port, you can change it yourself by buying the spare part & replace the broken one, but it requires high technical skills.
One mistake can cause you to ditch your device.
It's safer if you send it to a qualified/authorized service center or if it's still under warranty you can send it back to samsung.
The last possibility is extremely rare.
Broken Battery symptoms are usually different than your problem symptoms.
If the battery is broken, usually the battery life is shorter than usual and may be won't charge at all or charging time is very short.
But if this is your problem, you can't sent it back to samsung - unless the battery is factory damaged -, as you need to change the internal battery.
Try to find out which one is your real problem & fix it
REMINDER:
2.1A is producing heat so much that hurt your skin if you touch the metal part of the cable heads directly right after a long period of charging.
The heat it produce is much more intense than if you are using 500mA or 1A charger.
Poorly designed custom cable/charger can be melted by the heat & may cause explosion!!
...and.....ALWAYS SEARCH BEFORE ASKING!!
I hope this will help
I'd like to add that I was facing similar problem.
In my case, the problem was a stock charger cable.
It was not "broken" (in the meaning of totally cracked or cut cable) but it seemed that it isn't providing a stable voltage. In result, I was able to load the battery only when not using the device (plus the process was as slow as hell), coz when using it, the consumed power was higher than provided by the charger.
Meanwhile, before the problem occured, I was testing other solutions to be able to make charging cord longer than provided stock, which is only 1m. Those tests included using of the additional 2m USB-USB expansion cable which I was plugging to the plastic charger element from the one side and to the regular charging cable at the second side. Such a combination resulted in similiar results as above - then, it became obvious for me that the tablet consumes or wants to consume so high power that low-quality USB cable can't handle, and - especially if it is 2m long - it's degrading onto his way to the tablet.
Then, I am not sure if n8000, by demanding so much power, is not degrading the cable (even stock one) itself. I must say, that after that, I was using another charger cables (n8000 dedicated, one 2m second one 1.5m, both not original) which started to work significantly worse in even shorter time such as two weeks after first use. I am not a electrician or hardware specialist, I dunno if it is possible to degenerate the usb cable with the voltage such as one needed for charging the tablet, but during my over 10 years of passion within mobile devices, I have killed no more than 2 chargers IN TOTAL. N8000 killed 3 charging cables within 8 months.
For some time, I use another combination - I use a 1,5 long A/C extension cord, with a handy "8" plug at the second end. This fits into the charger "central box" after you dissolve it into two parts. Now, the voltage will not degenerate onto this 1.5m distance, as the cable of that type was designed particularly for 230V transfers, but it will still be perfectly mobile. At the second side of the box, I do not plug back the 1m stock cable (or longer not-official ones), but a cable that the Samsung provided along with an external battery, which is possible to buy here and there... It is about... 20 cm long The purpose of this was to avoid the energy lossess that occured when using longer cables and preserve the maximum possible charging rate. Since then (and about 5 months has passed) I have no further problems with charging, and the battery life seems to be much more better than I supposed it to be after over a year of really extensive usage (the only issue of above solution is that the plastic box in the middle is making really really hot, but it is not a critical problem i suppose, as since 5 months it HASN'T melted, exploded or something )
hay....i have the same problem but this tablet doesnt get charging
i think its not about charger because it gives 5v and 2A after the usb flat but in battery connector i got no current and there is just less than 1V voltage
Related
Hello:
I built myself a car charger a while ago and it all seemed to work fine. A couple of times however my unit has 'died' after a particularly long journey in the car. I have recently discovered that it was actually getting flat enough to turn off and not turn on until charged; even though it was indicating it was charging.
Further experiments have revealed that if the battery in nearly full (eg 84%) and I use my car charger, the percentage of battery full increases over time indicating it is indeed charging.
However; if the battery is quite empty eg 24% - over time the battery charge decreases until the unit turns off, and needs to be attached to the mains to charge it - even thought it still indicates it is charging!
Soehere in the middle of the two battery states ( 84% - 24%), my charger seems uable to charge my XDA for some unknown reason, I suspected it could be due to current drain - a flatter battery may need more current to charge which the charger cannot provide, but the same situation occurrs even if the unit is turned of and therefore taking very little current from the car charger - obviously leaving nearly all the current available to charge the battery.
Any ideas why this should happen? I am completely stumped - I do not wish to buy a charger as my charging system also incorporates a connection to my GPS unit, and no commercially available chargers provide this at a reasonable price.
Any help or suggestions much appreciated.
BTW: The PDA will only charge if at least one of the pins 16,17,or 18 isconnected to ground and at least one of the pins 20,21 or 22 are connected to +5V. Otherwise, though the XDA may say it is charging, it will actually just drain the battery.
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icarusbop,
Have a look at the charger I made for my XDA II, for use with the in-car kit I also made. The schematics are on my web site - follow the link from my signiature below.
This charger works 100%, and the state of the battery has no effect on charging performance. Mind you, it is capable of supplying > 2 Amps which is sufficient to fully charge the battery while watching movies, and the screen brightness turned all the way up. Charging times are the same as using the plug pack supplied with tyhe XDA II, if not a tad quicker.
The only draw back is the heatsink required for the +5 volt regulator. For the smallish one I have chosen (for the car kit - see pic on my site) it is capable of 2 Amps, but with a larger heatsink (see the first attempt pic of this charger) a full 5 Amps is easily achievable over extended use. It all depends on how much juice your set up requires.
Hope this helps.
Recrem...
I have the same issue but I have an original car kit which was working fine. After I upgraded to 2.06.00WWE i noticed that although when plugged into car kit it says charging, it actually discharges. Although I like this version, I'm in the car quite a bit and need the device to charge, and am thinking about rolling back to the latest rom from the club imate site.
It appears to be a software issue more than a hardware issue....
:?
update,
I've discovered that if charged to atleast 90% when plugged into car kit then it charges.
at some level below this (don't know where yet) it discharges.
welcome to the twilight zone
I haven't tested this with my car kit, and haven't noticed any problems when I had SE installed, although my wife said that her device wasn't charging while in the car, and when she got home after a fair drive, her battery was indeed flat!
I rolled back from 2.02 + 2.06 merged SE to my origional ROM of 1.66.00.WWE purely because some problems became more and more evident - like being unable to connect to ActiveSync unless I reset the device numerous times, and spontaneous hard resets. I have all the same software on my device now with the origional ROM and no problems...
We will be moving this week, and it would be a good test for my ROM and charger to see if it charges when below 90%....
Recrem...
microphone
Hi, did you manage to get the mic working on you carkit? I cannot get the mic working when connected with pins 1 and 5. sound output is working however!
Thanks,
Rob Boerman
Did you design and build your own car kit, or did you follow my design from my web site? I am curious if anyone has used the info I have posted there...
Haven't had a chance to try the mic. I only know it will require a good pre-amp to get it working, and I have been too busy to build one yet - perhaps when I have settled down into our new home after this week-end...
Recrem...
let me know
If you find time this weekend let me know
cheers,
Rob Boerman
All
Just to give my two-pennies worth...
I bought a USB cable when purchasing my O2 XDA II from the O2 shop. When using this cable, if the existing charge is below 85% then the device discharges when connected, however, if it is above 85% then it charges quite happily.
Get this.. if I use my USB CRADLE to charge (in the same USB port etc..) then it charges from below 85% without any problems whatsoever!
Is there a possibility that the USB cable and the USB cradle are wired differently? Are we missing a trick here?
My charging issue has deteriorated to the point that it dosn't charge at all in the car kit, it does charge in the pc usb hub and on mains. I down graded to 1.72.00WWE last night and tested it in the car kit this morning and it still discharged, so the software appears to have nothing to do with it.
I think the earlier statement by indecided may yeild results:
"The PDA will only charge if at least one of the pins 16,17,or 18 isconnected to ground and at least one of the pins 20,21 or 22 are connected to +5V. Otherwise, though the XDA may say it is charging, it will actually just drain the battery."
I will pull my gear apart this weekend and test it out. Possibly I've got a bad connection.
davidberrysmith said:
I think the earlier statement by indecided may yeild results:
"The PDA will only charge if at least one of the pins 16,17,or 18 isconnected to ground and at least one of the pins 20,21 or 22 are connected to +5V. Otherwise, though the XDA may say it is charging, it will actually just drain the battery."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
[Theory] The pins are quite thin, it's hard to think you can push 2+ Amps thru one of them without melting it down (at least the insulation). Maybe this is the problem: if you need a big loading current - like when the battery is below 85% - and you don't have more than one pin pair connected to +/- 5V the phone is not charging, although it may say so.
Solution: connect ALL three of pins 16-18 to GND and ALL three pins 20-22 to +5V.
[/theory]
Solved my problem,...
pin 22 had come away from the circuit board. So I sweated it down and just for good measure sweated down all other connections as well.
Put the phone back together and threw it in the car kit, charge ingreased from 78%.
time to upgrade the os again.
:wink:
david... perseverance does pay off... cool.
So I bought a cheap cable from eBay that converts microusb to the proprietary Galaxy connector on this device. Tried to charge the device but it entered a bootloop. Unplugged the cable and tried charging with the stock cable and left it overnight. Woke up and the device was completely dead.
Wouldn't boot at all.
Tore it open, unplugged the battery and plugged it back in. It booted! BUT the battery was critical and it shut off immediately. Tried charging again, no dice.
So I unplugged the battery and applied 4v to get some charge into it. Got the battery up to about 3.6V, booted again and it showed 3%. So in the time I had with the device turned on I tried both cables again but neither would charge the device. I used a multimeter to test the stock cable and it was all good, I even did a beep test between the 4 USB pins in the stock cable and the places they're wired up to inside the note and everything was fine so it's most likely not the cable.
Anyway the 3% is long gone now and I can't boot or charge. The device and battery are fine and definitely working, it just won't charge through USB no matter what. I've tried different power points, different adapters including stock and normal usb ports.
I've also cleaned both the plug and the jack with a toothbrush.
Could it be that the internal charging circuitry got fried when I tried the dodgy cable? If so, is there any way to fix/bypass this?
I'm at a complete loss so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Nas.
I would not recommend to charge battery directly outside the device or even remove the battery at all.
First you gotta make sure your cables are capable of charge other galaxy devices if a friend has Tab 7 or Tab 10.1 or other note 10.1 or another try your cables to see if they really work.
Because it may just be your cable, remember batteries have their own circuits boards of sort and batteries are sometimes picky on how they are charge especially OEM batteries that are not suppose to ever be out of the device unless are change for a new one in a repair.
So first of all cable check it a must, again is not as simple as check if all the pins works as this is not a simple USB (Universal Serial Bus) port is a proprietary port and cable, check the port in the tablet too.
As well it may be just a defective battery or worst case even a board problem.
Unfortunately I have no other device to test it with. I might just buy another cable and see how I go.
I know about the circuits on the battery, but I always thought they were just there as a safety measure due to the potentially volatile nature of Li-Ion when it drops below a certain voltage. I'll probably take your advice and stay away from charging it externally, I only did it once to see if the tab died or it was just a dead battery. The voltage never dropped low enough to trigger the circuit to 'kill' it, evidenced by the fact that I could get it back up to 3% just applying a constant voltage.
I'm guessing you've hit it on the head with the last sentence, might be a board problem which would be quite sad. Silly reason for a great device to die.
Thanks a lot for the reply, I'll update this thread once I try an alternative cable for future reference.
Ok, So to update:
I've bought and tested 3 separate cables, all provide 4.99V inside the device, but none of this makes it to the battery so I'm fairly certain it's the charging IC that's dead.
I bought a new battery that was charged to 40% so I was able to flash the device to see if it was maybe the custom kernel messing something up. Flashed to stock via Odin, still not charging.
From what I've read, I need a cell balancing circuit (since the battery is 2-cell Li-Ion) and a charging IC. I've found a suitable IC for fairly cheap, but I'm not sure if the balancing circuit is necessary. The battery already has one of these inside, but I'm not sure if this is just for Voltage/Current protection or if it also balances.
MP24AG: http://eng.it-m.co.kr/cnt/prod/tep_5l/MP24AG.pdf
If anyone knows I'd be very grateful.
I bought a brand-new Nexus 5 a few weeks ago. However it came with a 0.85A wall charger which is LG branded... and some 'generic' cable that was included too. Used it twice, but it took around 8-10 hours just to charge 80% of it. I plugged my old Galaxy Ace USB cable to the LG charger and it reduced to two and a half hours, same with my alternate charger from the aforementioned phone (5.0V + 0.7A).
But this led me to a question: Is using alternate chargers with < 1.2A of output a risky way to charge my Nexus 5 battery? I saw somewhere that it might even damage the circuit board (a rare case) and I'm a bit worried about it.
Using a charger with a lower amperage output will take longer for the phone to charge. Also, using a cheaper cable will also lengthen the charge time as the cable can pass the full amount of power to the phone. This has been my experience with using oem cables vs dolls store cables me chargers.
audit13 said:
Using a charger with a lower amperage output will take longer for the phone to charge. Also, using a cheaper cable will also lengthen the charge time as the cable can pass the full amount of power to the phone. This has been my experience with using oem cables vs dolls store cables me chargers.
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But... Will a Samsung wall charger with 0.7A of output damage my phone if I use it as my main charger? Because I also have a chinaphone which came with a bad charger and the Samsung one works fine.
No, the Samsung charger @ 0.7A will not damage the phone. I use a 1.0 A and 2.0 A Samsung charger with my N5 and it has been fine for months and months.
With the Samsung 0.7A charger, battery gets charged in 2:10 hours. I still don't understand it since I came from a low-end Samsung device which could complete its charge in about three hours (and that one had a 1500mAh battery...)
This is a tricky question, no doubt about it.
IMO, the cable quality is way more important than the current output (0.7 A, 0.85 A, etc).
I have a Samsung S4 charger with its cable (it seems very well built and it's thicker than other cables) and my N5 goes from 10% to fully charged in less than 3 hours.
Funny facts - happened to me:
- I had a very cheap cable (probably from China) that came with a battery bank. Surprisingly, it was the fastest way to charge my phone - reached almost 2.0 A. Later I found the trick: this cable doesn't have all the four wires, it only had two (positive and negative, without the data wires). I believe the data wires is used to perform some kind of amperage control; without it, no control was done and led to a very fast (probably dangerous) charging. I don't use this cable anymore, chances are that this nasty cable screwed up my notebook battery
- My N5 is almost two years old. Recently I had a problem with the Power button, the internal contact of the switch on the board was stuck 'pressed' and this led my phone to an endlessly force-reboot. I discovered this behavior after some google search and one of the possible causes of it is exactly the usage of a non-default / faster charger, it said that this could melt something - SOURCE
It makes sense, but I can't confirm this. I was able to fix this by smashing the phone on a table a few times (lol) and I'm still using a non-default charger
Can anyone confirm / say something about these facts?
For those who wants to see the diference between cables and chargers, give this app a try:
Play Store - Ampere
This app is a current meter, I use it on a regular basis and it is pretty reliable - the dev it's a XDA member and this app can be discussed here
Hope this helps!
You can not harm a phone with a 5 volt charger. The phone takes the amps it needs. More is better than less. I use 2 amp, 5 volt ones. As has been said the usb cable is the key thing. The better quality the better charge.
when i connect the cable every 1 min it stop charge and back charge again and in fact the battery is discharging if it was 55% it become 53% this when i disabled the fast charging in setting after android 6.0 marshmallow and when enable it device get hot very fast i could smell the heat easly? how to solve that
Sounds like a defective charger/USB cable/power source. In regards to it discharging and whatnot. Try with a different cable/charger/power source.
The heat is normal when you use Fast Charging, I thought everyone would've known this by 2016.
I use my phone's charger with a Sony USB cable. Because it has five pins on the inside, charges even faster than the four pins on my S6's OEM USB cable (and obviously more heat), the Indian version of the cable from Samsung has only four pins, they pulled one out, presumably thanks to idiots complaining about the heat.
The title says all.
On boot if the battery is lower than 98% the device reboots again continuously.
Started after I fixed the bootloop issue by heating the CPU.
Such a fix as far as I know involves replacing the battery... But I just did a couple months ago.
Do let me know if the battery fix works for you.
Thanks
No, new battery will not fix my same problem on Flex2 random reboot issue. May be motherboard is to be replaced.
tried swapping the battery and it didnt resolve the issue for me either
Hey, I think I can be of help. I've suffered the same issue twice, now. In my case, the battery was the problem. Not even looking at the battery's specs was enough for me to discover the cause of the issue, as the battery only confused me more: it said 3.8V (Volts) on it, even though the included quick-charger delivers up to 9V. Then, I noticed something: while the default quick charger only drives up to 1.8A, the battery pack I was periodically using drives up to 2.1A on the port I selected. So, any more than 1.8A and 9V might be harmful to the battery, to the point where it begins bootlooping (constant rebooting).
By the way, amperage (amps, A) is the amount of electrical current flowing, per second, during any given point in the electrical flow, while voltage (volts, V) is the pressure or "strength" used to push electricity in the flow. So, if electricity were water, and the charger was a water gun, the hole in the water gun, or the thickness of the water spurt, would be the amperage; the pressure of the water, a.k.a. the strength you used to fire the spurt (and, consequently, how long it would reach), would be the voltage. Wattage is the result taking both into consideration, W (wattage) = V x A.
The reason why the problem is amperage and not anything else, is that the default charger drives either 9V at 1.67A (15.03W), or 5V at 1.8A (9W), yet the port I was using in the battery pack drives 5V at 2.1A (10.5W) (the other port drives 5V at 1A = 5W, I'm presuming this one is safe to use), meaning: if the wattage on that port was lower than what quick-charger could drive, and the the voltage was also lower, the problem is the amperage, which was the only one that was higher. That's my conclusion. Any amperage higher than 1.8A might be harmful to the battery. How do I know it was that battery pack's port that caused the issue? Both times my phone started bootlooping were after I had recently plugged my phone into that port. The first time was just after I had purchased and used my battery pack, afterwards I stopped using it out of fear it was the culprit of the bootlooping. The second time was just after I decided to use the battery pack again, thinking it was safe.
*TL;DR* The problem, at least in my case, might have been caused by charging the battery with a charger that delivers more than 1.8 amps. Buying a new battery and replacing it is the only fix for this issue.
AAATechServices said:
No, new battery will not fix my same problem on Flex2 random reboot issue. May be motherboard is to be replaced.
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emmc rehot shuld help hear of coures if its not the battery causing the problem