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[Q] 1.2 amp charger work on gtablet

I have a 12 volt 1.2 amp charger that fits into the DC in Jack. Can I use this to charge the Gtablet in an emergency (if I lost or broke my original charger) without damaging my Gtab? Want some expert opinions before I make the attempt. Rather be safe than sorry. Thanks in advance.

I'm no expert, but a little math tells you that the charger that you have will only output 14.4 watts VxA=W (12Vx1.2A=14.4W). Since the G-Tab is rated at 12V,2A or 24W you will be under powering it. If I remember correctly a 24V1A supply would work just fine as the output is still 24W. A 12V3A charger would work just as well, as it is designed to feed up to 36W. In this case it would only feed the 24W that the G-Tab pulls.
In the end it would still power the device, however the battery charging would come to a crawl as the the available output is 60% of the rated charger.
I'd be cautious though, as your 1.2A charger may get really hot trying to feed the G-Tab.
I'm sure that someone else can explain this more elegantly than I just did.

Given the lack of voltage it may not work at all. You need enough voltage to overcome any resistance in the circuit or the result is a lot of nothing, or just heat. Been awhile since electronics school though.
Sent from the awesome ZTab

Phantom_Midge said:
I'm no expert, but a little math tells you that the charger that you have will only output 14.4 watts VxA=W (12Vx1.2A=14.4W). Since the G-Tab is rated at 12V,2A or 24W you will be under powering it. If I remember correctly a 24V1A supply would work just fine as the output is still 24W. A 12V3A charger would work just as well, as it is designed to feed up to 36W. In this case it would only feed the 24W that the G-Tab pulls.
In the end it would still power the device, however the battery charging would come to a crawl as the the available output is 60% of the rated charger.
I'd be cautious though, as your 1.2A charger may get really hot trying to feed the G-Tab.
I'm sure that someone else can explain this more elegantly than I just did.
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Click to collapse
I wouldn't be charging while using the Gtab. It would be powered off so there would be no drain and should only be charging. In my layman thinking, it would be a safe charge but only at a slower time rate than a 2 amp charge. If it won't damage my Grab, I'll try it with it powered off. Is this a safe go?

I have one from a tv. It does not work. It makes the charging indicator flicker...

Phantom_Midge said:
I'm no expert,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Given the nature of electricity, always a good idea to know what you're talking about before you recommend a course of action, since improper advice can result in death and destruction of equipment. A two-lecture treatment of electricity in physics class that basically boils down to V=IR and P=VI is not sufficient for giving advice about things like this.
Phantom_Midge said:
but a little math tells you that the charger that you have will only output 14.4 watts VxA=W (12Vx1.2A=14.4W). Since the G-Tab is rated at 12V,2A or 24W you will be under powering it. If I remember correctly a 24V1A supply would work just fine as the output is still 24W. A 12V3A charger would work just as well, as it is designed to feed up to 36W. In this case it would only feed the 24W that the G-Tab pulls.
In the end it would still power the device, however the battery charging would come to a crawl as the the available output is 60% of the rated charger.
I'd be cautious though, as your 1.2A charger may get really hot trying to feed the G-Tab.
I'm sure that someone else can explain this more elegantly than I just did.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please do not plug a 24V charger into a device that is supposed to take 12V. Bad things are likely to happen. At best, the GTab has internal protection circuitry to shut things off and prevent internal damage. If not, you're going to ruin the battery or cause things to blow up. It's like plugging your 120V hair dryer into a 240V outlet in Europe. Much smoke to follow.
Power (wattage) is not the relevant issue here. There are actually quite a few things that matter, but for the purposes of this discussion, voltage is the most important one. A 12V 1.2A charger *may* not be able to supply enough power to both run and charge the GTab, but it is unlikely to cause problems. I don't know the internals of the GTab specifically, but my guess is that it regulates the charging current, meaning you could also probably get away with a 12V 3A charger, though if the internal circuitry of the GTab is poorly designed, that might shorten your battery life.
As to your specific concern about heat on the 1.2A charger, heat production is a function both of the efficiency of the particular charger and the amount of power it produces. It's likely the 1.2A charger wouldn't get as hot as the 2A charger, given that its power output is 60% as much, unless it was significantly less efficient. Assuming, of course, that both were operating at maximum power.

ByByIpad said:
I have a 12 volt 1.2 amp charger that fits into the DC in Jack. Can I use this to charge the Gtablet in an emergency (if I lost or broke my original charger) without damaging my Gtab? Want some expert opinions before I make the attempt. Rather be safe than sorry. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bottom Line, without all the Hype and Hyperbola....
Yeah, it'll work and destroy nothing, but will take longer to fully charge the battery.
Do not use the tab while it's connected.

ByByIpad said:
I have a 12 volt 1.2 amp charger that fits into the DC in Jack. Can I use this to charge the Gtablet in an emergency (if I lost or broke my original charger) without damaging my Gtab? Want some expert opinions before I make the attempt. Rather be safe than sorry. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't use it. The GTab expects 2 amps to be available, and will not know to throttle the charge back to 1.2. You risk overheating or otherwise damaging the charger, which could then turn around and damage your GTab, depending on the charger's failure mode.
12v and at least 2 amp is what you need. More than 2amp is fine.
Jim

jmdearras said:
I wouldn't use it. The GTab expects 2 amps to be available, and will not know to throttle the charge back to 1.2. You risk overheating or otherwise damaging the charger, which could then turn around and damage your GTab, depending on the charger's failure mode.
12v and at least 2 amp is what you need. More than 2amp is fine.
Jim
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Click to collapse
Yes.
Lithium Polymer batteries require a CV/CC charging scheme. This means "Constant Voltage" and "Constant Current". One after another. Without knowing how the charging circuit is setup, you COULD damage the battery or the charging circuit by not supplying the appropriate power to the circuit.
To summarize.
1.) NEVER use a higher voltage supply, unless you are 100% sure the internal power supplies can handle that voltage. 24VDC = most likely really bad
2.) NEVER use a power supply that is under the rated current of the device. For good quality external AC/DC bricks, it's usually not a concern. For cheaply made, haphazardly designed bricks (mostly from China), this can cause fire.
3.) You can ALWAYS use a brick that is rated at MORE current. That's available current, not "I'm going to shove this current down your throat". Typically, bricks rated at a higher current will supply the required current at a higher efficiency anyway, so pending you don't care about the size increase, it's better. They also tend to supply cleaner power (voltage really), which is always a good thing.
That concludes todays electronics seminar. Class dismissed.

[Q] Short circuit

Is a short circuit fixable? My touchscreen is unresponsive. I think I shorted my phone after using a samsung wall charger to charge it for 6 months. I noticed it had a different output voltage compared to an oem htc charger (.7A vs 1A). The phone still powers on. I tried discharging the phone and adding an aluminum foil to the grounding pin. The led indicator (orange/green) no longer turns on when charging by wall or pc usb. Would replacing the lcd and digitizer fix it? Thanks.

First off,your charger @.7 amps vs. the 1 amp stocker will not cause the problem you're seeing.
It would have if the voltage output was higher than 5 volts nominal.
The total drain of the battery *might* be screwing things up.
I'd pull the foil,if it's still in there and try another stock battery to see if that straightens things out.

Fazeh said:
Is a short circuit fixable? My touchscreen is unresponsive. I think I shorted my phone after using a samsung wall charger to charge it for 6 months. I noticed it had a different output voltage compared to an oem htc charger (.7A vs 1A). The phone still powers on. I tried discharging the phone and adding an aluminum foil to the grounding pin. The led indicator (orange/green) no longer turns on when charging by wall or pc usb. Would replacing the lcd and digitizer fix it? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Voltage and amperage work together, they're not identical : ) the 1A will just charge a little faster, but as long as its around 4 or 5 volts, that's nothing to worry about. Also, changing chargers cannot cause a short unless you accidentally touch the outside USB pins together somehow, which is basically impossible to accidentally do. Not sure what caused your problem, but it wasn't a short.
Sidenote, even if you touched those pins, it would only short the charger and probably wouldn't even do any damage.

Have you try any method on this thread [FIX] [UPDATED] Touchscreen issues . It may gave you some idea's, I don't think the charger cause screen unresponsive except if it broken or get overvolted.

[Q] My N8000 facing a problem about charging.

Hello, I'm a N8000 user. I'm facing a problem with my charging issue where my tab take a long time to charge and it takes 10 hours to get from 0-60 %. FYI, I'm using a custom rom CM 10.2. What is the main cause with the charging issue? Does it related with charging port, battery or charger itself? please help me. I'm stuck now.

[QUOTE8=syafix21;50085752]Hello, I'm a N8000 user. I'm facing a problem with my charging issue where my tab take a long time to charge and it takes 10 hours to get from 0-60 %. FYI, I'm using a custom rom CM 10.2. What is the main cause with the charging issue? Does it related with charging port, battery or charger itself? please help me. I'm stuck now.[/QUOTE]
Charger maybe, but most on here get a new factory cabel and that takes care of it.

syafix21 said:
Hello, I'm a N8000 user. I'm facing a problem with my charging issue where my tab take a long time to charge and it takes 10 hours to get from 0-60 %. FYI, I'm using a custom rom CM 10.2. What is the main cause with the charging issue? Does it related with charging port, battery or charger itself? please help me. I'm stuck now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many similar thread already here & also the solutions.
But let me answer anyway.
Charging problem occurs because of one or more things:
Broken Cable
Broken Charger
Incompatible Cable
Incompatible Charger
Broken Outlet
Broken Charging Port
Broken Battery
To properly charging a N80XX we need a charger & cable that can deliver 2.1A, 5V of electrical current & voltage.
The factory default/initial charger & cable designed to deliver these requirements.
Using custom/cheap cable or cable extension can cause charging problem as it wasn't designed to deliver the required current & voltage.
Most custom cables & chargers on the market designed only to deliver 500mA(0.5A) - 1A, 5V.
Broken cable/charger can also cause it to fail in delivering 2.1A, 5V to the device.
Try another original cable/charger combination to test if one of them or both are broken.
Also try another electrical wall outlet to see if the outlet is the culprit.
For Broken Charging Port, you can change it yourself by buying the spare part & replace the broken one, but it requires high technical skills.
One mistake can cause you to ditch your device.
It's safer if you send it to a qualified/authorized service center or if it's still under warranty you can send it back to samsung.
The last possibility is extremely rare.
Broken Battery symptoms are usually different than your problem symptoms.
If the battery is broken, usually the battery life is shorter than usual and may be won't charge at all or charging time is very short.
But if this is your problem, you can't sent it back to samsung - unless the battery is factory damaged -, as you need to change the internal battery.
Try to find out which one is your real problem & fix it
REMINDER:
2.1A is producing heat so much that hurt your skin if you touch the metal part of the cable heads directly right after a long period of charging.
The heat it produce is much more intense than if you are using 500mA or 1A charger.
Poorly designed custom cable/charger can be melted by the heat & may cause explosion!!
...and.....ALWAYS SEARCH BEFORE ASKING!!
I hope this will help

I'd like to add that I was facing similar problem.
In my case, the problem was a stock charger cable.
It was not "broken" (in the meaning of totally cracked or cut cable) but it seemed that it isn't providing a stable voltage. In result, I was able to load the battery only when not using the device (plus the process was as slow as hell), coz when using it, the consumed power was higher than provided by the charger.
Meanwhile, before the problem occured, I was testing other solutions to be able to make charging cord longer than provided stock, which is only 1m. Those tests included using of the additional 2m USB-USB expansion cable which I was plugging to the plastic charger element from the one side and to the regular charging cable at the second side. Such a combination resulted in similiar results as above - then, it became obvious for me that the tablet consumes or wants to consume so high power that low-quality USB cable can't handle, and - especially if it is 2m long - it's degrading onto his way to the tablet.
Then, I am not sure if n8000, by demanding so much power, is not degrading the cable (even stock one) itself. I must say, that after that, I was using another charger cables (n8000 dedicated, one 2m second one 1.5m, both not original) which started to work significantly worse in even shorter time such as two weeks after first use. I am not a electrician or hardware specialist, I dunno if it is possible to degenerate the usb cable with the voltage such as one needed for charging the tablet, but during my over 10 years of passion within mobile devices, I have killed no more than 2 chargers IN TOTAL. N8000 killed 3 charging cables within 8 months.
For some time, I use another combination - I use a 1,5 long A/C extension cord, with a handy "8" plug at the second end. This fits into the charger "central box" after you dissolve it into two parts. Now, the voltage will not degenerate onto this 1.5m distance, as the cable of that type was designed particularly for 230V transfers, but it will still be perfectly mobile. At the second side of the box, I do not plug back the 1m stock cable (or longer not-official ones), but a cable that the Samsung provided along with an external battery, which is possible to buy here and there... It is about... 20 cm long The purpose of this was to avoid the energy lossess that occured when using longer cables and preserve the maximum possible charging rate. Since then (and about 5 months has passed) I have no further problems with charging, and the battery life seems to be much more better than I supposed it to be after over a year of really extensive usage (the only issue of above solution is that the plastic box in the middle is making really really hot, but it is not a critical problem i suppose, as since 5 months it HASN'T melted, exploded or something )

hay....i have the same problem but this tablet doesnt get charging
i think its not about charger because it gives 5v and 2A after the usb flat but in battery connector i got no current and there is just less than 1V voltage

Have someone had problems with the fast charging option?

hi, since i got the phone (2 month) i was very surprised because the fast charge, 1 game of lol was enough to get 60% or more, but since last 4 or 5 days, i have noticed that it does not longer charge like before, it used to need around 1 and a 20 min to charge all the battery, but now it takes around 2 hours, like using a normal charger. Thanks, and btw english is not my first language :silly:

Happened to me once, rebooted the phone and fast charging was working again.

4chanz said:
hi, since i got the phone (2 month) i was very surprised because the fast charge, 1 game of lol was enough to get 60% or more, but since last 4 or 5 days, i have noticed that it does not longer charge like before, it used to need around 1 and a 20 min to charge all the battery, but now it takes around 2 hours, like using a normal charger. Thanks, and btw english is not my first language :silly:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
fastcharge works only with screen off and no app opened (es. game/video/music/etc)

Also make sure you using good quality cable. Some weak ones can "block" quick charge. Best setup is just the stock one.

superdioz said:
fastcharge works only with screen off and no app opened (es. game/video/music/etc)
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Click to collapse
It still fast charges while in use... just won't be as fast since you're drawing power too. However, using the battery while charging at the same time makes the battery heat up very easily (true for most all devices even on normal 5V/1A chargers) so it is always recommended to keep your device in a state of minimal drain while charging.
I've had issues on past phones where sync/charge cables (stock ones even) get detected as USB connection instead of AC and charge at limited amps because of it. Swapping out to a new stock cable or even a dedicated charge cable with no sync pins usually solves the issue. EDIT: as przemo3679 says below, Qualcomm Quick Charge standard negotiates the higher voltage mode over the data pins, so "charge only" style cords with the data pins missing or shorted will not work in QC mode.

PhantasmRezound said:
It still fast charges while in use... just won't be as fast since you're drawing power too. However, using the battery while charging at the same time makes the battery heat up very easily (true for most all devices even on normal 5V/1A chargers) so it is always recommended to keep your device in a state of minimal drain while charging.
I've had issues on past phones where sync/charge cables (stock ones even) get detected as USB connection instead of AC and charge at limited amps because of it. Swapping out to a new stock cable or even a dedicated charge cable with no sync pins usually solves the issue.
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Click to collapse
no, the snapdragon 810 has overheating problems so if the screen is on the fastcharge is disabled, is the same reason because while you play and the phone heat up the display brightness cant be over 75%.

superdioz said:
no, the snapdragon 810 has overheating problems so if the screen is on the fastcharge is disabled, is the same reason because while you play and the phone heat up the display brightness cant be over 75%.
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Click to collapse
It does not disable the fast charge simply because the screen is on. That is how you keep phrasing it.
It disables fast charge if the phone is overheating. Technically this is not the same thing.
Many common usage factors (gaming, heavy mobile data use, high screen brightness, etc.) can make the heat build up fast enough to trigger thermal throttling and disable fast charge of course. But it is also possible to tweak the kernel and thermal files and adjust usage (light browsing only, use strong wifi in lieu of mobile radio, reduce screen brightness) to keep the phone in fast charge even when screen is on.

PhantasmRezound said:
It still fast charges while in use... just won't be as fast since you're drawing power too. However, using the battery while charging at the same time makes the battery heat up very easily (true for most all devices even on normal 5V/1A chargers) so it is always recommended to keep your device in a state of minimal drain while charging.
I've had issues on past phones where sync/charge cables (stock ones even) get detected as USB connection instead of AC and charge at limited amps because of it. Swapping out to a new stock cable or even a dedicated charge cable with no sync pins usually solves the issue.
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Click to collapse
I disagree. If phone is charging, but not fast it is usually caused by damaged data lanes, or too big resistance on some lane. Cables without sync lanes would work on some devices, but would not on others, current will be limited to 500mA. It's hard to say on which.
And w/o data pins quick charge can't work on any device. Phone use it to communicate with charger to set best voltage and current to actual device.
As i said, original is the best. U can't blame damaged cord for charging issues.

I have a usb voltmeter and I can assure you that it use the 9V charging while the screen is on and also when it's in use (so the screen is on and the phone is in use). The amp only drop when percentage is near complete charging but stay at 9V so technically it still use fast charging.
Quality of the usb cable is very important but quick charge (or fast charge as LG call it) use of higher voltage make the quality less important. I can use a 3 meter usb cable for example, with a iPad charger (5V 2.1A and genuine) I can't even charge my flex 2 (it can't draw more than 300mA and the battery deplete more slowly but don't charge even is not in use). I won't explain why a higher voltage is less sensitive to resistance (the resistance rise with the lenght of the wire) but that's the reason we use high voltage line to transport electricity.

OP here. I use the stock charger and cable that came with the phone, plus they dont see damaged or very used. Still feeling it "slow" :s

I have H950 Stock 5.0.1 , sometimes quick charge doesn't work properly so I turn the power off and charge while off for half an hour it charges very fast and reaches over 70% then turn it back on

Le_Zouave said:
I have a usb voltmeter and I can assure you that it use the 9V charging while the screen is on and also when it's in use (so the screen is on and the phone is in use). The amp only drop when percentage is near complete charging but stay at 9V so technically it still use fast charging.
Quality of the usb cable is very important but quick charge (or fast charge as LG call it) use of higher voltage make the quality less important. I can use a 3 meter usb cable for example, with a iPad charger (5V 2.1A and genuine) I can't even charge my flex 2 (it can't draw more than 300mA and the battery deplete more slowly but don't charge even is not in use). I won't explain why a higher voltage is less sensitive to resistance (the resistance rise with the lenght of the wire) but that's the reason we use high voltage line to transport electricity.
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Click to collapse
I agree with You, in short words more current (A) means more temperature. At the same power (W) bigger voltage (V) means lower current (A). But i think u didn't get what i mean. There is some kind mechanism, which block quick charge when cable is too crapy. I had one of those, and it was fully functional witch data lanes, but it was designed to power 0,5A device. When i tried to connect it to the Flex it said slow charging (or something like that). I think it somehow measures resistance.
I also want to refer to your words: "quick charge (or fast charge as LG call it) use of higher voltage make the quality less important". It is advantage of the quick charge, but not main purpose. U can always made a bit thicker lanes. But you can't change connector. Remember that USB 2.0 standard was designed in april 2000, so it is a bit old now . Back in the days nobody was thinking about 5,5" monsters with 3Ah batteries. Flex is charging with around 15W and it is too much(it can dangerously hot, create arcs etc.). Remember that conductor heats up the most in the greatest resistance point, which is connector. Now we have USB type C, with better connector, which can hold on greater currents, but if we have standard, why did not use it (QC2.0 & QC3.0), and have thinner cord?
About charging time, mine from 0-10% to about 90% takes about an hour.

Guys i solved the problem, after noticing that now the animations (rotation, multitasking, and others) werent working, i decided to do a hard reset, now everything is working, fastcharge, animations, etc. not sure what was the cause, a friend told me was a virus for watching porn lol

przemo3679 said:
When i tried to connect it to the Flex it said slow charging (or something like that). I think it somehow measures resistance.
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Click to collapse
I see exactly what message you get, it's the same message when you connect to a computer, right?
It detect a computer and limit itself to 5V and 500mA which was the standard back in the time.
I know someone that fried a laptop motherboard with a vaping bypass, so that limit have purpose.
What is strange is if you get that message with a faulty cable and a lg fast charge charger because the charger should only send signal to negociate quick charge.
I don't think it can measure the resistance or the intensity, or at least the measurement is not monitored in some app because when I use a cable with high resistance and the battery percentage don't go up, I don't have that message.

Le_Zouave said:
I see exactly what message you get, it's the same message when you connect to a computer, right?
It detect a computer and limit itself to 5V and 500mA which was the standard back in the time.
I know someone that fried a laptop motherboard with a vaping bypass, so that limit have purpose.
What is strange is if you get that message with a faulty cable and a lg fast charge charger because the charger should only send signal to negociate quick charge.
I don't think it can measure the resistance or the intensity, or at least the measurement is not monitored in some app because when I use a cable with high resistance and the battery percentage don't go up, I don't have that message.
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Click to collapse
My bad with translation. If you have no data lanes phone will usually charge with 0.5A as You said, but when i used this crappy one it was something closer to "To maintain best performance use original standardized charger". It was charging faster than 0.5A, but it wasn't QC.

przemo3679 said:
My bad with translation. If you have no data lanes phone will usually charge with 0.5A as You said, but when i used this crappy one it was something closer to "To maintain best performance use original standardized charger". It was charging faster than 0.5A, but it wasn't QC.
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Click to collapse
I think you mean the opposite, without the data pin (2 center pin on usb plug) the phone will think he is on a charger and don't limit itself for drawing current even if it's connected to a computer.
Normally a usb device have to be limited to 5V and 500mA,
But qc need the data pin to negotiate the qc voltage so if you use a usb cable without data pin it will stay at 5V.
I have one cable that top at 5V and 100mA (around 80mA normaly) it's very low and it can't charge the phone, it just make it lose battery more slowly, in that case I don't have the message you talk about. That message should appear when it's connected on a computer. My usb voltmeter also have a feature to block data pin, when that feature is activated the message don't pop and it draw more than 500mA from a computer.
There is a good voltmeter on aliexpress, I can make you the link but it's easily recognizable with a transparent blue case, around 10$. There is many model so be sure to take the quick charge compatible. You can make theory on many things but you can truly understand only if you try by yourself.

S7e battery in S6. Not charging.

I'm trying the S7e battery in the S6 hack. I've tried two batteries from amazon and neither have charged. Is there something about some S6s, mine's the 920W8, that make it incompatible with the S7e battery? Or is it it likely a crappy battery from a crappy seller issue? I've got Prime, so I'll just send it back and maybe get an S7 or regular S6 battery otherwise.

If you have a volt meter id suggest probing the leads. After long or incorrect storage the cell may have dropped below minimum voltage. You may have to manually charge it using a 3V wall plug till it reads over 2.7V. I have a variable output wall plug i with the wire ends stripped i use for that exact purpose. "Fixed" a Snap On power tool battery pack a few days ago with it, 6 out of 12 cells managed to get down to 0V somehow.

Rouwdyboy said:
If you have a volt meter id suggest probing the leads. After long or incorrect storage the cell may have dropped below minimum voltage. You may have to manually charge it using a 3V wall plug till it reads over 2.7V. I have a variable output wall plug i with the wire ends stripped i use for that exact purpose. "Fixed" a Snap On power tool battery pack a few days ago with it, 6 out of 12 cells managed to get down to 0V somehow.
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Click to collapse
Thanks! I borrowed a volt meter. I get 12V when probing pretty much all combinations of points on the leads. I tried my existing S6 battery too and got 15V. Neither 12V or 15V are what is printed on either of the batteries. They say Nominal Voltage of 3.85V and Charge Voltage of 4.4V. Is that normal?

Oh wierd. You sure you have that set to the correct range on the meter? They can be extremely inaccurate if on the wrong range or if the meter battery is low. DC and single digit settings with the battery disconnect from anything else. I'll be placing an order soon to do mine, I'll post what measurements i get then. The labeled voltage is normal for a cell, but I'm starting to think their is some small logic in the battery package. Let me know once youve double checked your readings.

https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=78678894&postcount=5