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I woke up to find my SDA powered off and unable to power on, which was odd considering it was plugged in to a (Motorola) charger.
Since the orange charge light doesn't come on at all, I suspect it's just a dead battery. I've touched the battery contacts to a battery tester with no response - as if the battery is totally dead, which is promising. However, I can't be sure I'm doing it correctly since I've never tried this on a battery I know is working.
There are 4 contacts on the battery, and I'm wondering if there's more to it - like needing to have 2 contacts touching the positive lead and the other 2 touching the negative lead.
Can someone try testing their battery and see which contacts give a live (charged) result?
Thanks
kentchristopher said:
I woke up to find my SDA powered off and unable to power on, which was odd considering it was plugged in to a (Motorola) charger.
Since the orange charge light doesn't come on at all, I suspect it's just a dead battery. I've touched the battery contacts to a battery tester with no response - as if the battery is totally dead, which is promising. However, I can't be sure I'm doing it correctly since I've never tried this on a battery I know is working.
There are 4 contacts on the battery, and I'm wondering if there's more to it - like needing to have 2 contacts touching the positive lead and the other 2 touching the negative lead.
Can someone try testing their battery and see which contacts give a live (charged) result?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally you shouldn't try to use chargers not designed for your phone. What has probably happened is that there wasn't enough current output in the charger, and it completely drained your battery. Your battery is probably fine. Get a proper SDA charger and try charging it again. You can even take it to a store and ask them to plug it in for 15 minutes while you browse the new phones.
Yeah - I lost the original charger, but I've been charging with this Motorola one (output 5V / 550 mAh) and via USB for the past 6 months without problem. I still think it may be the battery because it was at 50% when I went to sleep.
What are the output specs of the original charger?
kentchristopher said:
Yeah - I lost the original charger, but I've been charging with this Motorola one (output 5V / 550 mAh) and via USB for the past 6 months without problem. I still think it may be the battery because it was at 50% when I went to sleep.
What are the output specs of the original charger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The stock HTC charger (model ADP-5FH K) has output of 1A at 5V. But if you had no trouble charging before it shouldn't be a issue, unless the charger/battery is faulty.
If you have a multimeter you can verify this. To check if your battery is charged place contacts in (+) and (-) contacts on your battery and it should show ~3.7V. I just tried this.
s!lencer said:
The stock HTC charger (model ADP-5FH K) has output of 1A at 5V. But if you had no trouble charging before it shouldn't be a issue, unless the charger/battery is faulty.
If you have a multimeter you can verify this. To check if your battery is charged place contacts in (+) and (-) contacts on your battery and it should show ~3.7V. I just tried this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, silencer. I don't have a multi-meter, but I was using the battery tester as a way to gauge whether it was putting out any current at all, and it sounds like it's not. You were testing the 1st and 4th contacts?
I have read elsewhere that if your battery goes below 10-20% you won't be able to charge it with anything but the stock charger, so I think that's the problem, but I'll probably order a new battery as well just in case.
Yes I check the voltage between first and forth contact. What sort of battery tester are you using? Is there a digital read out display?
You can also try a USB to mini-usb cable to see if the battery get charged. From what I can remember USB ports are designed to give 500mA at 5V, but I have charged my phone when it was flat using a USB cable.
To follow-up in case anyone has this problem in the future: I ordered a new original charger (ADP-5FH) off eBay and with it, the phone's orange charge light came on right away and after giving it a full charge my phone is back up and running.
I'm inclined to think that it's not the difference in mAh of the original charger (1000mAh) vs USB charging (500mAh), but that there is something unique to the original charger which can "turn on" the charging when the battery is completely dead - perhaps something communicated by one of the extra pins in the mini-USB connection.
Hello all,
! Use this guide at your own risk. I am not responsible for damage to your equipment! You have been warned. Consult a electronics expert if you are not sure!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use my phone a lot, Wifi, game, and the battery is drained fast! I was looking for a solution.
First I used a powerbank 2600 mAh, but that you loose a lot of energy by charging. And it's not practical unless you buy a big powerbank.
A disadvantage is that powerbank will last a limited amount of charge cycles. I ususally use my phone al ot when I am at home.
When I was surfing on the internet I found a person who connected a other brand phone onto a lab power supply and it worked.
So I looked and bought a cheap Basetech BT-153, a set of 4 mm cable set, which includes a pair testing cables with a grapling hook in it.
First you turn the powerdupply on, and set the voltage to the same battery voltage as it's written on yours.
My S6312 has a battery voltage of 3.7V (EB464358VU). So I turn the voltage on the powersupply onto 3.7V. The current (mAh) turning knob does nothing. The current you cannot set at all.
Your phone will draw any current it requires. That's why in most cases you can use a powersupply with the correct voltage , but higher current. Your phone draws a current as it needs. As far as I know off this is in the most cases. Correct me if I am wrong.
Turn the powersupply off before you try to connect the testing probes with their hooks onto your phone. You don't want to short circuit anything.
That can cause malfunction!
I connected the red to plus (+) and the black one to minus (-). You can see which connector is plus or minus on the battery.
The middle one is used to get battery status as I have read. The middle one I did not use. Be carefull to connect plus and minus right!
After connecting the phone will give a warning that the battery is extremely low and that you soulf connect to a powersuppy. Ignore it.
I tried to power my phone by USB only, but that does not work. You have to connect power throught the battery connectors as far as I know.
I saw on youtube somewhere that a guy or girl made a wooden battery shape and placed the contacts onto it. That way you can easily switch between powersupply and battery.
Smart ! :good:
I bought the following items:
http://www.rapidonline.com/test-measurement/voltcraft-ms-6-test-probe-set-51-51631
http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/393647/Basetech-BT-153-1-Output-Variable-DC-Power-Supply-Bench
The phone shuts itself down after a while.
I tried connecting the usb cable to give the phone power. But it keeps saying that the battery is removed.
and shuts itself off. Is there a way to override the missing battery in the software? Is there a app that uses root permissions to override that?
If there is , then anyone could use an external powersource without battery.
Anyone?
Installing DisableCriticalBatteryshutdiwn module of the Exposed framework..
REsults: It still shuts down. Emailed Xposed for assistance , hope they have a solution.
Closer to the solution!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2113843
Solder a resistor between the battery minus and the middle pin of the battery.
I used a 1K ohm resistor, that translates to a 4-5% battery charge....
Then I tried a 10K ohm. The battery charge starts at 6% and goes up! How odd?!
But everything works.... Maybe I made an mistake with the resistor value.
http://www.minco.com/Sensors-and-Instruments/Support-and-Tools/Thermistor-Resistance-Table
As the following webpage tells, a copper thermistor, I guess Samsung uses copper resistors, the value is between 5.128 ~ 19.116 ohm.
That could be an explanation that my 1K and 10K ohm resistors are causing my dummy battery is not working properly.
Then I got a warning message to connect my charger. Then I connected my usb connector and no warnings anylonger!
Going to find a better value for the resitor.
I don't have a 220 ohm resistor in my stock. But I do have several 330 ohm. If you connect 2 resistors of 330 ohm in parallel, the replacement resistor (Rv) will be lower than 330.
If you calculate it, it will result in a replacement value of 165 ohm. Link to an online calculator: http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-paralresist.htm
The phone still gives the indication that the battery is only 1% charged and starts charging. The phone shuts itself down after about a minute.
So now the issue is: How to fool the phone that "battery " is full?
I don't own the S6312 any longer. Gave it to a friend who needed. I guess it would work. But alas I cannot verify.
I just started a 2nd try to power my samsung phone without a battery.
But this 2nd try I am going to use a defect battery. Disamantle it and use the electronics of the battery to mimic the original.
Goto: http://forum.xda-developers.com/gen...-battery-2-t2941436/post56779273#post56779273
Edit: The critical power module of the Xposed framework was installed, but not enabled! Shame I cannot test.... Even if you enable it, don't forget to reboot to make it functional!
I'm using an old Samsung GIO (S5660) without a battery, powered through the USB connector.
It requires:
1) disassembling the phone and soldering a wire between the USB power connector to the battery + connector. There's a nice detailed video on youtube that walks through the phone teardown.
2) "special" boot procedure
The soldering part will probably dissuade most people from attempting this as you will need a decent soldering iron + a bit of electronics/soldering experience and a steady hand to solder the wire to the USB connector.
Here's a picture of the wire soldered to the +5V USB pin:
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The wire gets routed through the board where it gets soldered to the +5V battery terminal (unfortunately I don't have a pic of the solder connection to the battery terminal):
Prior to doing this mod, I just connected a 5V source to the battery terminals and the phone powered up fine.
I figured it'd be way cleaner to just tap the 5V power from the USB connector rather than add some other wiring/connector, so I went ahead with this soldering mod.
However, after making the soldering connection the phone wouldn't boot! It would show a battery icon briefly and then shut off.
So I figured there must be some circuitry on the phone that detects that the USB power is connected to the battery terminals but there's no battery there.
Anyways, I stumbled upon the trick "special" boot procedure -- basically boot to recovery (on the GIO, hold HOME key while powering up). From the recovery menu select reboot, and the phone boots up!
I'm using this phone as a tabletop clock and baby monitor receiver:
A nice way to make use of a device that would otherwise be tossed.
Not sure whether this would work for other Samsung phone models...
chihwahli said:
I don't own the S6312 any longer. Gave it to a friend who needed. I guess it would work. But alas I cannot verify.
I just started a 2nd try to power my samsung phone without a battery.
But this 2nd try I am going to use a defect battery. Disamantle it and use the electronics of the battery to mimic the original.
Goto: http://forum.xda-developers.com/gen...-battery-2-t2941436/post56779273#post56779273
Edit: The critical power module of the Xposed framework was installed, but not enabled! Shame I cannot test.... Even if you enable it, don't forget to reboot to make it functional!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
USB takes 5V and the battery terminal gives 3.3V. Joining these two is going to damage the power IC..
The whole concept does not make sense. Why not plug in the battery and keep the USB charger cable attached, so the battery keeps 100% charge?
Mobile repair technicians use external voltage booster device to power on mobile phones without battery, but its only for a short time.
It would be nice to able to power the phone without the battery when you play a game for 1-2 hours, my phone a Samsung note 3's battery is about 45% charge. That means recharging every day. Since Li-ion batteries last about 500 charge cycles. It does not take long before you need to buy a new one.
Is it a lot of money? No, but its senseless to play on battery if you can play by using an AC adapter.
That's much more efficient., cost effective, and less trash, thus better for the environment.
How many normal / rechargeable batteries get thrown away to be recycled every year? A lot!
Recycling is good, but itś better if you could prevent it. Recycling itself uses a lot of energy and water as well.
You would be surprised what amounts of energy and water that are required to separate trash and re-use it.
It's better to prevent creating more and more trash....
Samsung?? Apple?? Anyone?? A phone-dock or cable that can run a smartphone without battery please!!!!
Well, that is one product I would really like to have! Sell it to me! I have my cash ready =) Hit me!
Hmmm, going to try that later.... thanks.
AlbertDude said:
I'm using an old Samsung GIO (S5660) without a battery, powered through the USB connector.
It requires:
1) disassembling the phone and soldering a wire between the USB power connector to the battery + connector. There's a nice detailed video on youtube that walks through the phone teardown.
2) "special" boot procedure
The soldering part will probably dissuade most people from attempting this as you will need a decent soldering iron + a bit of electronics/soldering experience and a steady hand to solder the wire to the USB connector.
Here's a picture of the wire soldered to the +5V USB pin:
The wire gets routed through the board where it gets soldered to the +5V battery terminal (unfortunately I don't have a pic of the solder connection to the battery terminal):
Prior to doing this mod, I just connected a 5V source to the battery terminals and the phone powered up fine.
I figured it'd be way cleaner to just tap the 5V power from the USB connector rather than add some other wiring/connector, so I went ahead with this soldering mod.
However, after making the soldering connection the phone wouldn't boot! It would show a battery icon briefly and then shut off.
So I figured there must be some circuitry on the phone that detects that the USB power is connected to the battery terminals but there's no battery there.
Anyways, I stumbled upon the trick "special" boot procedure -- basically boot to recovery (on the GIO, hold HOME key while powering up). From the recovery menu select reboot, and the phone boots up!
I'm using this phone as a tabletop clock and baby monitor receiver:
A nice way to make use of a device that would otherwise be tossed.
Not sure whether this would work for other Samsung phone models...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By keeping the smartphone, with battery attached to the charger. The battery life is going to shortened. Some people say that keeping the battery charge between 40% and 80% is optimal. Charging to 100% shortens battery life. Battery guides from various websites tell that. But if this is true for every kind of li-ion battery I wonder.
Attaching USB 5.0v to the battery contact directly is risky, damage is possible.
I am not sure how much extra voltage is circuit can take without going over it's limit. It might cause the electronics to work less long due to higher voltage. As in the formula: U= I x R
U = voltage
I = current
R = resistance
With higher voltage, the current will increase: I = U / R.
For instance:
i = 5 / 100 = 0.05 A = 50mA
i = 3,3 / 100 = 0,033 = 33 mA
The higher current will cause diverse electrical components to have a higher voltage, some components are made for a specific voltage. Using a higher voltage could result in damage. It's better not to take a chance...
sudeshkmr said:
USB takes 5V and the battery terminal gives 3.3V. Joining these two is going to damage the power IC..
The whole concept does not make sense. Why not plug in the battery and keep the USB charger cable attached, so the battery keeps 100% charge?
Mobile repair technicians use external voltage booster device to power on mobile phones without battery, but its only for a short time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First you have to look for the voltage output your battery is giving. All batteries give different voltage output but its around 3.3V mostly. Then use a simple voltage regulator to drop-down the voltage. For example if your battery is giving 3.3 V output. then you can use LM7833 circuit for converting 5V to 3.3V.
IIRC, a fully charged lithium-ion battery has an output voltage of 4.2 V, fully discharged around 3.5? V
So the device most likely regulates the voltage from the battery anyways.
If you have no need for the device to be portable (as I said, I'm using it as a desktop clock and baby monitor) and you no longer have a battery (mine started bulging so it was time to throw it away...) then it's nice to be able use the device without having to buy a new battery.
Been running over a month with no overheating or other related problems.
sudeshkmr said:
USB takes 5V and the battery terminal gives 3.3V. Joining these two is going to damage the power IC..
The whole concept does not make sense. Why not plug in the battery and keep the USB charger cable attached, so the battery keeps 100% charge?
Mobile repair technicians use external voltage booster device to power on mobile phones without battery, but its only for a short time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is a nice idea to lower the voltage from 5V to any voltage required.
But the problem I face is, is how to fool any 3 pin Samsung battery that there is a battery attached??
I have not tried the trick by connecting the micro USB 5V, then through a voltage lowering circuit like yours, and attach it to the battery pins of my phone. Then attack micro USB, and see if it works.
I wonder if that is safe to try.
I'd expect the device to regulate the voltage from the battery terminals so it's overkill to add another regulator.
If you're worried about the voltage being too high, just insert one or two (depending on your level of worry) forward biased diodes to drop the voltage by ~0.7 V or ~1.4 V.
I'm comfortable with leaving it at 5V....
sudeshkmr said:
First you have to look for the voltage output your battery is giving. All batteries give different voltage output but its around 3.3V mostly. Then use a simple voltage regulator to drop-down the voltage. For example if your battery is giving 3.3 V output. then you can use LM7833 circuit for converting 5V to 3.3V.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, voltage sounds ok. As you have said, if I want to lower it I could.
@AlbertDude: How many pins does your samsung phone battery have? 3 pin batteries are easy to attach to a power-supply , Samsung's 4 pin li-ion batteries are different.... Samsung ace 3 has 3 pin battery.
Ace 3 works with power-supply and a resistor between ground and the middle pin.
Samsung Note 3 has a 4 pin battery and this a bit different. Tried several resistors, but the phone keeps detecting that it has no battery. So it will not boot past the Samsung screen. It just shuts down...
But I still have to try the boot into recover and reboot from that screen. Maybe it does work, not sure yet.
If someone tried or has a new idea. post =)
AlbertDude said:
I'd expect the device to regulate the voltage from the battery terminals so it's overkill to add another regulator.
If you're worried about the voltage being too high, just insert one or two (depending on your level of worry) forward biased diodes to drop the voltage by ~0.7 V or ~1.4 V.
I'm comfortable with leaving it at 5V....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Samsung GIO has 3 pin battery.
For the GIO:
- The "boot from recovery" trick was only needed after soldering the wire between the USB and battery pins. When I connected an external 5V source to the battery pins, the device powered up without problems.
- I have never had to use any resistors.
Good luck!
chihwahli said:
Ok, voltage sounds ok. As you have said, if I want to lower it I could.
@AlbertDude: How many pins does your samsung phone battery have? 3 pin batteries are easy to attach to a power-supply , Samsung's 4 pin li-ion batteries are different.... Samsung ace 3 has 3 pin battery.
Ace 3 works with power-supply and a resistor between ground and the middle pin.
Samsung Note 3 has a 4 pin battery and this a bit different. Tried several resistors, but the phone keeps detecting that it has no battery. So it will not boot past the Samsung screen. It just shuts down...
But I still have to try the boot into recover and reboot from that screen. Maybe it does work, not sure yet.
If someone tried or has a new idea. post =)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AlbertDude said:
I'd expect the device to regulate the voltage from the battery terminals so it's overkill to add another regulator.
If you're worried about the voltage being too high, just insert one or two (depending on your level of worry) forward biased diodes to drop the voltage by ~0.7 V or ~1.4 V.
I'm comfortable with leaving it at 5V....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good and valid points.
For the middle point of battery which (in most batteries I assume) senses the temperature of battery through a thermistor, you can do things. Either use a thermistor yourself (again overkill) or just use a resistor. The value of resistor can be chosen so that it gives half of battery's voltage output which is around 1.6 V. This can be done using a voltage divider circuit easily.
here!
I came down to this post when i want to have my pocket wifi "battery"-less.
See if this helps
m.instructables.com/id/How-to-use-phone-without-battery
This is my first post so try to copy the set of words above on google and look at it on
the instructable website
Cheers!
Maybe it's time to get out and do something productive. Like possibly, putting your phone down and make a power supply for what you're looking for? Reading all these comments, you all seem reasonably intelligent and I would be willing to bet that if you focused your time on the problem instead of a game, whomever would most certainly figure out a solution. Yeah?
To find a way to replace a 4 pin battery with any powersupply. Someone with electronics skill could for example measure the signals from all the 4 pins of the battery with an oscilloscope. I guess. Based on the signals create a electronics schematic that will mimic those signals. I guess that will work.
But I do not have the skills nor the oscilloscope to try it out.
hi, since i got the phone (2 month) i was very surprised because the fast charge, 1 game of lol was enough to get 60% or more, but since last 4 or 5 days, i have noticed that it does not longer charge like before, it used to need around 1 and a 20 min to charge all the battery, but now it takes around 2 hours, like using a normal charger. Thanks, and btw english is not my first language :silly:
Happened to me once, rebooted the phone and fast charging was working again.
4chanz said:
hi, since i got the phone (2 month) i was very surprised because the fast charge, 1 game of lol was enough to get 60% or more, but since last 4 or 5 days, i have noticed that it does not longer charge like before, it used to need around 1 and a 20 min to charge all the battery, but now it takes around 2 hours, like using a normal charger. Thanks, and btw english is not my first language :silly:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
fastcharge works only with screen off and no app opened (es. game/video/music/etc)
Also make sure you using good quality cable. Some weak ones can "block" quick charge. Best setup is just the stock one.
superdioz said:
fastcharge works only with screen off and no app opened (es. game/video/music/etc)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It still fast charges while in use... just won't be as fast since you're drawing power too. However, using the battery while charging at the same time makes the battery heat up very easily (true for most all devices even on normal 5V/1A chargers) so it is always recommended to keep your device in a state of minimal drain while charging.
I've had issues on past phones where sync/charge cables (stock ones even) get detected as USB connection instead of AC and charge at limited amps because of it. Swapping out to a new stock cable or even a dedicated charge cable with no sync pins usually solves the issue. EDIT: as przemo3679 says below, Qualcomm Quick Charge standard negotiates the higher voltage mode over the data pins, so "charge only" style cords with the data pins missing or shorted will not work in QC mode.
PhantasmRezound said:
It still fast charges while in use... just won't be as fast since you're drawing power too. However, using the battery while charging at the same time makes the battery heat up very easily (true for most all devices even on normal 5V/1A chargers) so it is always recommended to keep your device in a state of minimal drain while charging.
I've had issues on past phones where sync/charge cables (stock ones even) get detected as USB connection instead of AC and charge at limited amps because of it. Swapping out to a new stock cable or even a dedicated charge cable with no sync pins usually solves the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no, the snapdragon 810 has overheating problems so if the screen is on the fastcharge is disabled, is the same reason because while you play and the phone heat up the display brightness cant be over 75%.
superdioz said:
no, the snapdragon 810 has overheating problems so if the screen is on the fastcharge is disabled, is the same reason because while you play and the phone heat up the display brightness cant be over 75%.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It does not disable the fast charge simply because the screen is on. That is how you keep phrasing it.
It disables fast charge if the phone is overheating. Technically this is not the same thing.
Many common usage factors (gaming, heavy mobile data use, high screen brightness, etc.) can make the heat build up fast enough to trigger thermal throttling and disable fast charge of course. But it is also possible to tweak the kernel and thermal files and adjust usage (light browsing only, use strong wifi in lieu of mobile radio, reduce screen brightness) to keep the phone in fast charge even when screen is on.
PhantasmRezound said:
It still fast charges while in use... just won't be as fast since you're drawing power too. However, using the battery while charging at the same time makes the battery heat up very easily (true for most all devices even on normal 5V/1A chargers) so it is always recommended to keep your device in a state of minimal drain while charging.
I've had issues on past phones where sync/charge cables (stock ones even) get detected as USB connection instead of AC and charge at limited amps because of it. Swapping out to a new stock cable or even a dedicated charge cable with no sync pins usually solves the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I disagree. If phone is charging, but not fast it is usually caused by damaged data lanes, or too big resistance on some lane. Cables without sync lanes would work on some devices, but would not on others, current will be limited to 500mA. It's hard to say on which.
And w/o data pins quick charge can't work on any device. Phone use it to communicate with charger to set best voltage and current to actual device.
As i said, original is the best. U can't blame damaged cord for charging issues.
I have a usb voltmeter and I can assure you that it use the 9V charging while the screen is on and also when it's in use (so the screen is on and the phone is in use). The amp only drop when percentage is near complete charging but stay at 9V so technically it still use fast charging.
Quality of the usb cable is very important but quick charge (or fast charge as LG call it) use of higher voltage make the quality less important. I can use a 3 meter usb cable for example, with a iPad charger (5V 2.1A and genuine) I can't even charge my flex 2 (it can't draw more than 300mA and the battery deplete more slowly but don't charge even is not in use). I won't explain why a higher voltage is less sensitive to resistance (the resistance rise with the lenght of the wire) but that's the reason we use high voltage line to transport electricity.
OP here. I use the stock charger and cable that came with the phone, plus they dont see damaged or very used. Still feeling it "slow" :s
I have H950 Stock 5.0.1 , sometimes quick charge doesn't work properly so I turn the power off and charge while off for half an hour it charges very fast and reaches over 70% then turn it back on
Le_Zouave said:
I have a usb voltmeter and I can assure you that it use the 9V charging while the screen is on and also when it's in use (so the screen is on and the phone is in use). The amp only drop when percentage is near complete charging but stay at 9V so technically it still use fast charging.
Quality of the usb cable is very important but quick charge (or fast charge as LG call it) use of higher voltage make the quality less important. I can use a 3 meter usb cable for example, with a iPad charger (5V 2.1A and genuine) I can't even charge my flex 2 (it can't draw more than 300mA and the battery deplete more slowly but don't charge even is not in use). I won't explain why a higher voltage is less sensitive to resistance (the resistance rise with the lenght of the wire) but that's the reason we use high voltage line to transport electricity.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree with You, in short words more current (A) means more temperature. At the same power (W) bigger voltage (V) means lower current (A). But i think u didn't get what i mean. There is some kind mechanism, which block quick charge when cable is too crapy. I had one of those, and it was fully functional witch data lanes, but it was designed to power 0,5A device. When i tried to connect it to the Flex it said slow charging (or something like that). I think it somehow measures resistance.
I also want to refer to your words: "quick charge (or fast charge as LG call it) use of higher voltage make the quality less important". It is advantage of the quick charge, but not main purpose. U can always made a bit thicker lanes. But you can't change connector. Remember that USB 2.0 standard was designed in april 2000, so it is a bit old now . Back in the days nobody was thinking about 5,5" monsters with 3Ah batteries. Flex is charging with around 15W and it is too much(it can dangerously hot, create arcs etc.). Remember that conductor heats up the most in the greatest resistance point, which is connector. Now we have USB type C, with better connector, which can hold on greater currents, but if we have standard, why did not use it (QC2.0 & QC3.0), and have thinner cord?
About charging time, mine from 0-10% to about 90% takes about an hour.
Guys i solved the problem, after noticing that now the animations (rotation, multitasking, and others) werent working, i decided to do a hard reset, now everything is working, fastcharge, animations, etc. not sure what was the cause, a friend told me was a virus for watching porn lol
przemo3679 said:
When i tried to connect it to the Flex it said slow charging (or something like that). I think it somehow measures resistance.
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I see exactly what message you get, it's the same message when you connect to a computer, right?
It detect a computer and limit itself to 5V and 500mA which was the standard back in the time.
I know someone that fried a laptop motherboard with a vaping bypass, so that limit have purpose.
What is strange is if you get that message with a faulty cable and a lg fast charge charger because the charger should only send signal to negociate quick charge.
I don't think it can measure the resistance or the intensity, or at least the measurement is not monitored in some app because when I use a cable with high resistance and the battery percentage don't go up, I don't have that message.
Le_Zouave said:
I see exactly what message you get, it's the same message when you connect to a computer, right?
It detect a computer and limit itself to 5V and 500mA which was the standard back in the time.
I know someone that fried a laptop motherboard with a vaping bypass, so that limit have purpose.
What is strange is if you get that message with a faulty cable and a lg fast charge charger because the charger should only send signal to negociate quick charge.
I don't think it can measure the resistance or the intensity, or at least the measurement is not monitored in some app because when I use a cable with high resistance and the battery percentage don't go up, I don't have that message.
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My bad with translation. If you have no data lanes phone will usually charge with 0.5A as You said, but when i used this crappy one it was something closer to "To maintain best performance use original standardized charger". It was charging faster than 0.5A, but it wasn't QC.
przemo3679 said:
My bad with translation. If you have no data lanes phone will usually charge with 0.5A as You said, but when i used this crappy one it was something closer to "To maintain best performance use original standardized charger". It was charging faster than 0.5A, but it wasn't QC.
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I think you mean the opposite, without the data pin (2 center pin on usb plug) the phone will think he is on a charger and don't limit itself for drawing current even if it's connected to a computer.
Normally a usb device have to be limited to 5V and 500mA,
But qc need the data pin to negotiate the qc voltage so if you use a usb cable without data pin it will stay at 5V.
I have one cable that top at 5V and 100mA (around 80mA normaly) it's very low and it can't charge the phone, it just make it lose battery more slowly, in that case I don't have the message you talk about. That message should appear when it's connected on a computer. My usb voltmeter also have a feature to block data pin, when that feature is activated the message don't pop and it draw more than 500mA from a computer.
There is a good voltmeter on aliexpress, I can make you the link but it's easily recognizable with a transparent blue case, around 10$. There is many model so be sure to take the quick charge compatible. You can make theory on many things but you can truly understand only if you try by yourself.
I'd like to know if there is a way to build an electric circuit to allow you to power up and operate a Nexus 5 without a battery attached.
I'd like to use the Nexus 5 as a "fixed" device, always on, always connected to the mains. Leaving the battery inside will cause it to age and eventually burst.
I'm guessing I could either try to feed the phone 3.8V (as the battery is rated), but I can't send the battery temperature values on its connector, or destroy the battery, remove the battery elements and leave the electronics in place and feed it current from there.
Before I break something, I'd like to ask if it has been done already.
Thanks!
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inigo333 said:
Any success doing so? (inigo333 at gmail.com)
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I haven't had time to try it yet, but a colleague suggested I try adding 2 diodes on the 5V line from USB to lower the voltage to 3.8V. I will plug this into the battery's circuit, replacing the other elements. I'll let you know when I get around to doing it (in a month or so).
Did it work?
Though it's been years - I haven't had time to try it
When I do, I'll probably go with one diode and supply 4.3V to the battery pins - because Li-Ion batteries can go to 4.3V...
Best solution for battery problem.
Attach 2 numbers of 18650 lithium cell of capacity 2200mah in parallel using smd type battery holder at the back panel.
Add an external li-ion battery charging module chip on the same side.
Take the internal battery's power management chip, discard the internal cell.
Connect externally attached battery power (+) & (-) ve to the internal power management chip of old battery.
Re assemble the mounted unit. Charge externally and enjoy.
Only problem is that, slim set becomes bulky.
Thanks,
But the problem is I wanted to run the Nexus 5 without a battery (from a charger). The goal being - it is always on, and there are no batteries to swell..
mad_ady said:
Thanks,
But the problem is I wanted to run the Nexus 5 without a battery (from a charger). The goal being - it is always on, and there are no batteries to swell..
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The MT3608 2A Max DC-DC Step Up Power Module Booster Power Module is a low-cost module that can step-up a 2 to 24V input voltage up to a 5 to 28V output at up to 2A.
Use it inside the battery compartment.
Before installing preset output to 3.7-3.8 volt.
Fix it and use on dc 5 volt charger.
The title says all.
On boot if the battery is lower than 98% the device reboots again continuously.
Started after I fixed the bootloop issue by heating the CPU.
Such a fix as far as I know involves replacing the battery... But I just did a couple months ago.
Do let me know if the battery fix works for you.
Thanks
No, new battery will not fix my same problem on Flex2 random reboot issue. May be motherboard is to be replaced.
tried swapping the battery and it didnt resolve the issue for me either
Hey, I think I can be of help. I've suffered the same issue twice, now. In my case, the battery was the problem. Not even looking at the battery's specs was enough for me to discover the cause of the issue, as the battery only confused me more: it said 3.8V (Volts) on it, even though the included quick-charger delivers up to 9V. Then, I noticed something: while the default quick charger only drives up to 1.8A, the battery pack I was periodically using drives up to 2.1A on the port I selected. So, any more than 1.8A and 9V might be harmful to the battery, to the point where it begins bootlooping (constant rebooting).
By the way, amperage (amps, A) is the amount of electrical current flowing, per second, during any given point in the electrical flow, while voltage (volts, V) is the pressure or "strength" used to push electricity in the flow. So, if electricity were water, and the charger was a water gun, the hole in the water gun, or the thickness of the water spurt, would be the amperage; the pressure of the water, a.k.a. the strength you used to fire the spurt (and, consequently, how long it would reach), would be the voltage. Wattage is the result taking both into consideration, W (wattage) = V x A.
The reason why the problem is amperage and not anything else, is that the default charger drives either 9V at 1.67A (15.03W), or 5V at 1.8A (9W), yet the port I was using in the battery pack drives 5V at 2.1A (10.5W) (the other port drives 5V at 1A = 5W, I'm presuming this one is safe to use), meaning: if the wattage on that port was lower than what quick-charger could drive, and the the voltage was also lower, the problem is the amperage, which was the only one that was higher. That's my conclusion. Any amperage higher than 1.8A might be harmful to the battery. How do I know it was that battery pack's port that caused the issue? Both times my phone started bootlooping were after I had recently plugged my phone into that port. The first time was just after I had purchased and used my battery pack, afterwards I stopped using it out of fear it was the culprit of the bootlooping. The second time was just after I decided to use the battery pack again, thinking it was safe.
*TL;DR* The problem, at least in my case, might have been caused by charging the battery with a charger that delivers more than 1.8 amps. Buying a new battery and replacing it is the only fix for this issue.
AAATechServices said:
No, new battery will not fix my same problem on Flex2 random reboot issue. May be motherboard is to be replaced.
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emmc rehot shuld help hear of coures if its not the battery causing the problem