I recently got a touch pro of a friend with a damaged screen that didn't turn on but the touch screen was responsive. Apparently he sat on it and the screen broke.
I then acquired it and replaced the LCD screen and i turned it on but all it shows is a blank black screen with the backlight on. I was tapping while it booted up and it was making that beep noise so i know the touch screen works. What do i do now.
dazz245 said:
I recently got a touch pro of a friend with a damaged screen that didn't turn on but the touch screen was responsive. Apparently he sat on it and the screen broke.
I then acquired it and replaced the screen (with digitalizer) and i turned it on but all it shows is a blank black screen. I was tapping while it booted up and it was making that beep noise so i know the touch screen works. What do i do now.
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if the lcd is damaged and you only replaced the digitizer then that wont solve the problem, the digitizer just sits ontop of the lcd and recognizes your touches, hence why it mite know that your touching the screen but the screen is still blank
mancsoulja said:
if the lcd is damaged and you only replaced the digitizer then that wont solve the problem, the digitizer just sits ontop of the lcd and recognizes your touches, hence why it mite know that your touching the screen but the screen is still blank
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I replaced the LCD along with the digitalizer. Tats what i meant.
Sounds like either the new screen is inop on fit (fraid you need another to test, then send the first back as faulty), or the fault is not the LCD itself.
Possibily its the wrong screen, or its not installed correctly, or you damaged either the screen or the controller when installing.
I'm afraid you dont have many options - take it apart & rebuild to ensure correct parts & fitment, spend £££ on alternative parts to see whats broken (or serious £££ on test equipment!), send it off for repair or give up!
I'd go for option 1 first
If your friend sat on it hard enough to break the screen, i'd be looking for any damage / cracking to the boards / ribon cable mounts and be looking very carefully at the mountings of any IC chips. Incedently, when (s)he sat on it, did the screen work at all? and was it 100% working before they did?
Okay thanks for the replies. I just bought a flex cable where the slider thing is because the old one looked a bit old and flexed out and on inspection of the old screen i found a tiny rip on the screen's flex cable too. I wait for my cable and see if it works and if it doesn't then i'll sent the screen back as faulty and get a new one and if that doesn't work then I'll give up and sell it again
hi
sorry to wake up an old thread.
so what's your solution/conclusion?
is it the flex, or the LCD that broke?
i have the same problem right now.
thanks
was mainboard
I just got my phone back from a phone reaire store because my screen was cracked but i have noticed that the home menu back and search buttons are very dim and you almost cannot see the lights even in a dark room,what could the problem be? maybe led slid a little bit after they reassemled it?How can i fix it? I have had to bring it back to the store # times and they gave me my money back and the screen is fixed but would like this problem resolved?
If I recall, the lights are actually on the capacitance buttons. Could be a defective overlay on the screen, adhesive misplaced when removing or installing the new screen, or I guess they could be failing. You would have to tear it back apart to see what the issue actually is.
Okay thanks for your reply...I already know where the buttons are so I think I will just leave them
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I dropped my TF700 with the dock and it fell on its back(tablet). It closed shut and when i tried to restart it i do not see any display
later the display comes up but in jagged lines half black and half display, the touch doesn't seem to respond , i can see that it boots
and i can access it on my computer all the files and entire system but i cannot do anything with touchscreen and lcd. after repeated touching
it has the touch sound that comes not very often.
I opened the screen and i see no physical damage to the screen. Is there an inverter board of LCD that might have gone bad due to that
or has any one faced this problem , so that even if i have to order a replacment part i know which one to order first i thought of
ordering the LCD + Touchpanel but it looks like i am doubting that the LCD has gone bad.
Can anyone please help if they have faced this issue ??
Has anyone encountered the following issues with their SHIELD?
Mine was working just fine after updating to 4.3 and rooting with CWM. I performed multiple reboots in this configuration, played games, etc. - everything was fine.
I had a pretty busy weekend so didn't touch the SHIELD at all for a few days. When I got back:
When I opened it up, I saw the screen backlight turn on but nothing displayed on the screen. The SHIELD button was glowing green.
I long-pressed the SHIELD button to turn off the device. When I turn it back on, I get a white screen that is dark around the edges (mostly vignetting around the corners). The brightness of the screen here and degree of vignetting seem to change every time I try and turn on the device.
If I enter fastboot mode via the key combo, the same thing happens - white vignetted screen. The device DOES appear to enumerate as a fastboot device on my PC in this configuration.
At one point I figured it might be due to a low battery, so plugged it into the charger. 30 minutes later, when I opened the lid, I actually came up to a launcher screen with 65% battery.
However, after closing the lid and reopening it again - black screen again, with the "white vignette of death" coming back if I reboot.
Has anyone else seen similar behavior? Searching results in no one complaining about a white screen like this, at least not on this device.
Screen of Death
This just happened to me today. Did you find a fix for this problem?
Entropy512 said:
Has anyone encountered the following issues with their SHIELD?
Mine was working just fine after updating to 4.3 and rooting with CWM. I performed multiple reboots in this configuration, played games, etc. - everything was fine.
I had a pretty busy weekend so didn't touch the SHIELD at all for a few days. When I got back:
When I opened it up, I saw the screen backlight turn on but nothing displayed on the screen. The SHIELD button was glowing green.
I long-pressed the SHIELD button to turn off the device. When I turn it back on, I get a white screen that is dark around the edges (mostly vignetting around the corners). The brightness of the screen here and degree of vignetting seem to change every time I try and turn on the device.
If I enter fastboot mode via the key combo, the same thing happens - white vignetted screen. The device DOES appear to enumerate as a fastboot device on my PC in this configuration.
At one point I figured it might be due to a low battery, so plugged it into the charger. 30 minutes later, when I opened the lid, I actually came up to a launcher screen with 65% battery.
However, after closing the lid and reopening it again - black screen again, with the "white vignette of death" coming back if I reboot.
Has anyone else seen similar behavior? Searching results in no one complaining about a white screen like this, at least not on this device.
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Might be just bad luck for me.....
nmerc001 said:
This just happened to me today. Did you find a fix for this problem?
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So ive already gotten two shields and they both got the same effect. my guess is the ribbon cable when you open and close the screen, is wearing off? because when i open my shield in a certain way, it works... when i open it at around 100 degrees or open correctly then tilt it forward, the screen tears and slowly shows the white screen. I do admit that i open and close the screen more than i should, but i do it carefully. Ill look over at the ifixit site to see how the cable is connected to the board.
This is what has me worried about buying a shield, the ribbon cable, did you confirmed this was the problem?
DJNinja1625 said:
So ive already gotten two shields and they both got the same effect. my guess is the ribbon cable when you open and close the screen, is wearing off? because when i open my shield in a certain way, it works... when i open it at around 100 degrees or open correctly then tilt it forward, the screen tears and slowly shows the white screen. I do admit that i open and close the screen more than i should, but i do it carefully. Ill look over at the ifixit site to see how the cable is connected to the board.
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I am a tech by trade and bought one of ebay for 40 bucks cuz it would not power up so the guy claimed. After getting it I found the issue was actually the display was not coming on and once it did. Then went out in a few moments. Connect it to HDMI and the unit runs all day of you want to be cabled. ]
So I tore it down and found that the issue is the flex cable. The problem is that the flex cable is part of the LCD and you cannot just replace the cable. Also since the unit is so new there are no sources as of yet to by the LCD from.
So if you have this issue I suggest just holding out till a source of LCD's at hopefully a reasonable price become available.
So it's soldered to the screen and not replacable right?
nex86 said:
So it's soldered to the screen and not replacable right?
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That is correct.. The flex cable is actually an integral part of the display and even has much of the driver circuitry placed right on it at the LCD. In the business we call it a flex circuit since it is a flexible circuit board and not just a cable.
I pretty much know what you mean.
On my old Archos Gamepad I ripped the flex that connected the left side of the controler to the logic board by accident.
It was a pain in the ass to fix it by soldering seperate wires, I guess it's impossible to do this with the display connection in the Shield.
nex86 said:
I pretty much know what you mean.
On my old Archos Gamepad I ripped the flex that connected the left side of the controler to the logic board by accident.
It was a pain in the ass to fix it by soldering seperate wires, I guess it's impossible to do this with the display connection in the Shield.
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Might be possible if you used 32 gauge magnet wire. It is enamel coated so it won't short, but it to will break over time.
hi, flash factory image
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dragxdk said:
hi, flash factory image
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How are you supposed to flash a factory image when the screen won't let you see what you are doing? When you are in the bootloader screen the HDMI drivers are not loaded yet so not even hooking it to an external monitor will work. You might want to fully read and understand the problem next time before offering advice.:good:
fastboot tells you if you were sucessful or not.
just for relocking the bootloader you have to do some button combinations, you can look up some tutorial videos to see what you have to press.
nex86 said:
fastboot tells you if you were sucessful or not.
just for relocking the bootloader you have to do some button combinations, you can look up some tutorial videos to see what you have to press.
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Even still, it is not a software problem that causes this. I know because if I move my display to a certain angle it will start to work sometimes. A software issue would not cause this. I also have taken my apart since I am a tech and can actually see the traces in the flex cable that have broken..
Any device with a folding display is a bad idea and a failure waiting to happen. Flex cables have a limited number of flex cycles that is even usually published. So the idea of using them in a device that may get heavy use is just dumb.
Solarenemy68 said:
Any device with a folding display is a bad idea and a failure waiting to happen. Flex cables have a limited number of flex cycles that is even usually published. So the idea of using them in a device that may get heavy use is just dumb.
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I agree, they used flex in the Nintendo DS and 3Ds as well, but they don't break that fast.
I find it still better if they have used recular cables like what they use for Laptops.
Solarenemy68 said:
Even still, it is not a software problem that causes this. I know because if I move my display to a certain angle it will start to work sometimes. A software issue would not cause this. I also have taken my apart since I am a tech and can actually see the traces in the flex cable that have broken..
Any device with a folding display is a bad idea and a failure waiting to happen. Flex cables have a limited number of flex cycles that is even usually published. So the idea of using them in a device that may get heavy use is just dumb.
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What you are saying is the EXACT same thing that happened to my SHIELD. I can tell its a hardware problem because when I tilted my screen it would work, and sometimes it wouldn't. Now my SHIELD's display does not even show any signs of picture. HDMI still works, however. Like one of the previous posts said, there is not a screen available for purchase, so my next step is NVIDIA customer support. Maybe if they would sell these screens, I wouldn't even have to have a warranty claim. sigh.
White screen of death?
yes mine too same as
i tried connecting my via HDMI from power cable to large HDMI to plug it works fine on my galaxy tab
thought id be clever try it on nvidia shield never worked sould of bought mini HDMI so now White screen of death
i cant get into recovery or anything i had this on charge for 12 hrs yesterday still no green button on charge only orange .. i too cant find anything on internet to help with this White screen of death situation
Solarenemy68 said:
How are you supposed to flash a factory image when the screen won't let you see what you are doing? When you are in the bootloader screen the HDMI drivers are not loaded yet so not even hooking it to an external monitor will work. You might want to fully read and understand the problem next time before offering advice.:good:
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Click to collapse
This. I'm having a similar issue. My wife's SHIELD has an unresponsive touch screen. So I tried to flash the factory image (It was never rooted to begin with) and I got the white screen issue when in the bootloader screen. I have to keep restarting it to get the screen to show up as normal when the device boots to the home screen. But the bootloader screen is still blank and white. I was able to watch a video and mimick the steps to flash the factory image but that did not fix the issue. It's definitely a hardware issue. I live in Cincinnati OH, anywhere I can go to have this fixed? I have a portable myself and i know this is going to happen to mine soon.
Ready for the long story? I dropped my TF700T and cracked the screen, it still worked just nasty crack spider web big from left lower corner toward right top. Bought dead tablet off eBay for 190.00 total mb seamed to be toast. Removed both screens complete (could not find info on detaching ribbon cables so just tugged to get em out.) Pushed ribbon cable in on good tablet power on just gets a glow. Later found a post that says to lift white tab to disconnect ribbon cables also about the service power switch. I have attached tablet via HDMI to monitor , I get cromi logo for about 3 or 4 min, than goes black. As tablet is 64 GB model. What should my next try be? Are there any tests to isolate problem comments? Just bought another broken screen pad that supposidely works. I know to first verify its operation, cut off service switch, undo cables screen from digitizer, remove digitizer than try in my tablet. Does digitizer have to be attached to touch screen? Does touch screen have to be attached for tablet to boot? All help is greatly apreached. Broken tablet should arrive by Thursday.
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Robert_DJ said:
Ready for the long story? I dropped my TF700T and cracked the screen, it still worked just nasty crack spider web big from left lower corner toward right top. Bought dead tablet off eBay for 190.00 total mb seamed to be toast. Removed both screens complete (could not find info on detaching ribbon cables so just tugged to get em out.) Pushed ribbon cable in on good tablet power on just gets a glow. Later found a post that says to lift white tab to disconnect ribbon cables also about the service power switch. I have attached tablet via HDMI to monitor , I get cromi logo for about 3 or 4 min, than goes black. As tablet is 64 GB model. What should my next try be? Are there any tests to isolate problem comments? Just bought another broken screen pad that supposidely works. I know to first verify its operation, cut off service switch, undo cables screen from digitizer, remove digitizer than try in my tablet. Does digitizer have to be attached to touch screen? Does touch screen have to be attached for tablet to boot? All help is greatly apreached. Broken tablet should arrive by Thursday.
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Click to collapse
I have a son who had the exact same story, and was successful. I'll pass this on to him.
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Robert_DJ said:
Ready for the long story? I dropped my TF700T and cracked the screen, it still worked just nasty crack spider web big from left lower corner toward right top. Bought dead tablet off eBay for 190.00 total mb seamed to be toast. Removed both screens complete (could not find info on detaching ribbon cables so just tugged to get em out.) Pushed ribbon cable in on good tablet power on just gets a glow. Later found a post that says to lift white tab to disconnect ribbon cables also about the service power switch. I have attached tablet via HDMI to monitor , I get cromi logo for about 3 or 4 min, than goes black. As tablet is 64 GB model. What should my next try be? Are there any tests to isolate problem comments? Just bought another broken screen pad that supposidely works. I know to first verify its operation, cut off service switch, undo cables screen from digitizer, remove digitizer than try in my tablet. Does digitizer have to be attached to touch screen? Does touch screen have to be attached for tablet to boot? All help is greatly apreached. Broken tablet should arrive by Thursday.
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Click to collapse
Did you see this: http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/129602/How+to+Replace+ASUS+Tranformer+infinity+Digitizer+TF700
Read about a few people who replaced the screen successfully following it.
Good luck!
Reply from my son
dsulliii said:
I have a son who had the exact same story, and was successful. I'll pass this on to him.
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I am passing this on from my son who experienced your exact same crisis:
I do recall that the tablet wouldn't boot unless everything was hooked up...I think...you can start swapping component by component to see if one in particular is causing it not to boot. And if it hasn't been tried already I'd reflash the stock ROM to see what happens.
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