Hey guys i hated my tf300 untill i put a custom ROM(hydro) on it.I have loved it ever since...unfortunately i dropped it and now the screen just doesnt respond anymore..screen still looks perfect no crack or scratch..i have tried full reset and everything i can....should i get i new digitizer??
will that fix it please help..
rchremi said:
Hey guys i hated my tf300 untill i put a custom ROM(hydro) on it.I have loved it ever since...unfortunately i dropped it and now the screen just doesnt respond anymore..screen still looks perfect no crack or scratch..i have tried full reset and everything i can....should i get i new digitizer??
will that fix it please help..
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Cracks are not always visible. But if they're not there, I'd suggest you open the back case and try to reseat the ribbon cables at the touchscreen PCB. While at it, check the flat silver cable connecting that board to the mainboard also. Make sure nothing is jarred loose by the drop.
graphdarnell said:
Cracks are not always visible. But if they're not there, I'd suggest you open the back case and try to reseat the ribbon cables at the touchscreen PCB. While at it, check the flat silver cable connecting that board to the mainboard also. Make sure nothing is jarred loose by the drop.
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thanx for responding...i did exactly what you said ..i disconnected both cables (silver and brown) and put them back..more than half of the screen started working, the other part was just dead and those parts didnt work even when i tilted the screen.. like 5 minutes later the entire screen is dead again......do you think its the digitizer?
rchremi said:
thanx for responding...i did exactly what you said ..i disconnected both cables (silver and brown) and put them back..more than half of the screen started working, the other part was just dead and those parts didnt work even when i tilted the screen.. like 5 minutes later the entire screen is dead again......do you think its the digitizer?
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Sorry for the late reply. I've run into this problem before. When you have a digitizer that works for a few minutes then stops as the tab warms up, (1) more likely than not, there's a crack somewhere or a tear on the ribbons, visible or not, or (2) the new screen boycotting the old firmware. No new screen points to faulty hardware. However, it doesn't hurt to eliminate possible software causes.
The best test I can think of at this point would be to first check the physical connections again (check the connectors and ribbon ends under a magnifying glass, make sure they aren't damaged, bent or stripped), then re-flash the firmware following instructions in another thread, then turn on "show touches" in settings. If you still see "ghost touches" after a few minutes, the digitizer is likely ass-kicked by the drop.
I've had a digitizer on a TF act "leisurely" because of a crack across the width of the bordering black strip that couldn't be detected with the naked eye because it severed the circuit on just the underside. The surface was totally smooth. As the crack spread, it became obvious.
If I had access to your glass, I could've tested for you. Too bad.
So I broke my digitizer glass a few weeks ago. I ordered a new digitizer off ebay... I made sure I ordered the correct version (it was the "no model version" or whatever). Installed it which was really annoying because of all the nasty glue.
Now I can't get the tablet to turn on at all. Before at least the LCD was functional. The red charging light comes on when I plug in the charger but that's it.
Any way I accidentally broke a cable or something when I was taking it apart? I checked it all and everything seems fine... I really don't know what to do.
Assuming I can't get it fixed, think I could sell the broken tablet for anything?
Thanks!
zaner123 said:
So I broke my digitizer glass a few weeks ago. I ordered a new digitizer off ebay... I made sure I ordered the correct version (it was the "no model version" or whatever). Installed it which was really annoying because of all the nasty glue.
Now I can't get the tablet to turn on at all. Before at least the LCD was functional. The red charging light comes on when I plug in the charger but that's it.
Any way I accidentally broke a cable or something when I was taking it apart? I checked it all and everything seems fine... I really don't know what to do.
Assuming I can't get it fixed, think I could sell the broken tablet for anything?
Thanks!
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Of course you can resell the tab in its current state. Quickly or slowly depending on the asking price. But before doing that, you should check one more time. The fastest way is plug it to a TV monitor via the micro HDMI port. If it comes on, at least you know the system is working except for the video. Past that, there can only be two possibilities. (1) Bad lcd: something might have happened when you pried it off the broken digitizer; and/or (2) the video cable is bad, or improperly connected - by that, I mean you need to make sure it fits all the way in at both ends (mainboard & LCD). Check connection with a magnifying glass, You won't believe how many times people forget to reconnect the cable or connect it wrong. Lastly, if you did turn the service switch off, make sure it's turned on again. Good luck.
LCD to Mainboard connection...can it be connected "wrong"? Or simply not as snug as it should be?
Also, what is the service switch?
zaner123 said:
LCD to Mainboard connection...can it be connected "wrong"? Or simply not as snug as it should be?
Also, what is the service switch?
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Here's the link to the relevant thread. Search for the necessary information within it. The cable that goes from LCD to mainboard is labeled: "MB" end goes to mainboard. The service switch is located at the top of the mainboard looking from the back, to the left of the power button ribbon (top right corner of tab), and is labeled "on"/"off". You should turn it off before doing anything. It cuts off all current to the boards and prevents accidental shortcircuitings. If you don't and mess around with the digitizer board, you might burn a fuse that controls the dig's operations. But this is for later. Go to the thread and browse it.
Has anyone encountered the following issues with their SHIELD?
Mine was working just fine after updating to 4.3 and rooting with CWM. I performed multiple reboots in this configuration, played games, etc. - everything was fine.
I had a pretty busy weekend so didn't touch the SHIELD at all for a few days. When I got back:
When I opened it up, I saw the screen backlight turn on but nothing displayed on the screen. The SHIELD button was glowing green.
I long-pressed the SHIELD button to turn off the device. When I turn it back on, I get a white screen that is dark around the edges (mostly vignetting around the corners). The brightness of the screen here and degree of vignetting seem to change every time I try and turn on the device.
If I enter fastboot mode via the key combo, the same thing happens - white vignetted screen. The device DOES appear to enumerate as a fastboot device on my PC in this configuration.
At one point I figured it might be due to a low battery, so plugged it into the charger. 30 minutes later, when I opened the lid, I actually came up to a launcher screen with 65% battery.
However, after closing the lid and reopening it again - black screen again, with the "white vignette of death" coming back if I reboot.
Has anyone else seen similar behavior? Searching results in no one complaining about a white screen like this, at least not on this device.
Screen of Death
This just happened to me today. Did you find a fix for this problem?
Entropy512 said:
Has anyone encountered the following issues with their SHIELD?
Mine was working just fine after updating to 4.3 and rooting with CWM. I performed multiple reboots in this configuration, played games, etc. - everything was fine.
I had a pretty busy weekend so didn't touch the SHIELD at all for a few days. When I got back:
When I opened it up, I saw the screen backlight turn on but nothing displayed on the screen. The SHIELD button was glowing green.
I long-pressed the SHIELD button to turn off the device. When I turn it back on, I get a white screen that is dark around the edges (mostly vignetting around the corners). The brightness of the screen here and degree of vignetting seem to change every time I try and turn on the device.
If I enter fastboot mode via the key combo, the same thing happens - white vignetted screen. The device DOES appear to enumerate as a fastboot device on my PC in this configuration.
At one point I figured it might be due to a low battery, so plugged it into the charger. 30 minutes later, when I opened the lid, I actually came up to a launcher screen with 65% battery.
However, after closing the lid and reopening it again - black screen again, with the "white vignette of death" coming back if I reboot.
Has anyone else seen similar behavior? Searching results in no one complaining about a white screen like this, at least not on this device.
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Might be just bad luck for me.....
nmerc001 said:
This just happened to me today. Did you find a fix for this problem?
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So ive already gotten two shields and they both got the same effect. my guess is the ribbon cable when you open and close the screen, is wearing off? because when i open my shield in a certain way, it works... when i open it at around 100 degrees or open correctly then tilt it forward, the screen tears and slowly shows the white screen. I do admit that i open and close the screen more than i should, but i do it carefully. Ill look over at the ifixit site to see how the cable is connected to the board.
This is what has me worried about buying a shield, the ribbon cable, did you confirmed this was the problem?
DJNinja1625 said:
So ive already gotten two shields and they both got the same effect. my guess is the ribbon cable when you open and close the screen, is wearing off? because when i open my shield in a certain way, it works... when i open it at around 100 degrees or open correctly then tilt it forward, the screen tears and slowly shows the white screen. I do admit that i open and close the screen more than i should, but i do it carefully. Ill look over at the ifixit site to see how the cable is connected to the board.
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I am a tech by trade and bought one of ebay for 40 bucks cuz it would not power up so the guy claimed. After getting it I found the issue was actually the display was not coming on and once it did. Then went out in a few moments. Connect it to HDMI and the unit runs all day of you want to be cabled. ]
So I tore it down and found that the issue is the flex cable. The problem is that the flex cable is part of the LCD and you cannot just replace the cable. Also since the unit is so new there are no sources as of yet to by the LCD from.
So if you have this issue I suggest just holding out till a source of LCD's at hopefully a reasonable price become available.
So it's soldered to the screen and not replacable right?
nex86 said:
So it's soldered to the screen and not replacable right?
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That is correct.. The flex cable is actually an integral part of the display and even has much of the driver circuitry placed right on it at the LCD. In the business we call it a flex circuit since it is a flexible circuit board and not just a cable.
I pretty much know what you mean.
On my old Archos Gamepad I ripped the flex that connected the left side of the controler to the logic board by accident.
It was a pain in the ass to fix it by soldering seperate wires, I guess it's impossible to do this with the display connection in the Shield.
nex86 said:
I pretty much know what you mean.
On my old Archos Gamepad I ripped the flex that connected the left side of the controler to the logic board by accident.
It was a pain in the ass to fix it by soldering seperate wires, I guess it's impossible to do this with the display connection in the Shield.
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Click to collapse
Might be possible if you used 32 gauge magnet wire. It is enamel coated so it won't short, but it to will break over time.
hi, flash factory image
Sent from my LT25i using XDA Free mobile app
dragxdk said:
hi, flash factory image
Sent from my LT25i using XDA Free mobile app
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How are you supposed to flash a factory image when the screen won't let you see what you are doing? When you are in the bootloader screen the HDMI drivers are not loaded yet so not even hooking it to an external monitor will work. You might want to fully read and understand the problem next time before offering advice.:good:
fastboot tells you if you were sucessful or not.
just for relocking the bootloader you have to do some button combinations, you can look up some tutorial videos to see what you have to press.
nex86 said:
fastboot tells you if you were sucessful or not.
just for relocking the bootloader you have to do some button combinations, you can look up some tutorial videos to see what you have to press.
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Even still, it is not a software problem that causes this. I know because if I move my display to a certain angle it will start to work sometimes. A software issue would not cause this. I also have taken my apart since I am a tech and can actually see the traces in the flex cable that have broken..
Any device with a folding display is a bad idea and a failure waiting to happen. Flex cables have a limited number of flex cycles that is even usually published. So the idea of using them in a device that may get heavy use is just dumb.
Solarenemy68 said:
Any device with a folding display is a bad idea and a failure waiting to happen. Flex cables have a limited number of flex cycles that is even usually published. So the idea of using them in a device that may get heavy use is just dumb.
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I agree, they used flex in the Nintendo DS and 3Ds as well, but they don't break that fast.
I find it still better if they have used recular cables like what they use for Laptops.
Solarenemy68 said:
Even still, it is not a software problem that causes this. I know because if I move my display to a certain angle it will start to work sometimes. A software issue would not cause this. I also have taken my apart since I am a tech and can actually see the traces in the flex cable that have broken..
Any device with a folding display is a bad idea and a failure waiting to happen. Flex cables have a limited number of flex cycles that is even usually published. So the idea of using them in a device that may get heavy use is just dumb.
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Click to collapse
What you are saying is the EXACT same thing that happened to my SHIELD. I can tell its a hardware problem because when I tilted my screen it would work, and sometimes it wouldn't. Now my SHIELD's display does not even show any signs of picture. HDMI still works, however. Like one of the previous posts said, there is not a screen available for purchase, so my next step is NVIDIA customer support. Maybe if they would sell these screens, I wouldn't even have to have a warranty claim. sigh.
White screen of death?
yes mine too same as
i tried connecting my via HDMI from power cable to large HDMI to plug it works fine on my galaxy tab
thought id be clever try it on nvidia shield never worked sould of bought mini HDMI so now White screen of death
i cant get into recovery or anything i had this on charge for 12 hrs yesterday still no green button on charge only orange .. i too cant find anything on internet to help with this White screen of death situation
Solarenemy68 said:
How are you supposed to flash a factory image when the screen won't let you see what you are doing? When you are in the bootloader screen the HDMI drivers are not loaded yet so not even hooking it to an external monitor will work. You might want to fully read and understand the problem next time before offering advice.:good:
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Click to collapse
This. I'm having a similar issue. My wife's SHIELD has an unresponsive touch screen. So I tried to flash the factory image (It was never rooted to begin with) and I got the white screen issue when in the bootloader screen. I have to keep restarting it to get the screen to show up as normal when the device boots to the home screen. But the bootloader screen is still blank and white. I was able to watch a video and mimick the steps to flash the factory image but that did not fix the issue. It's definitely a hardware issue. I live in Cincinnati OH, anywhere I can go to have this fixed? I have a portable myself and i know this is going to happen to mine soon.
I bought my brother a second-hand M8. It had a cracked screen but it was really cheap. I put the new screen in and a new SIM card reader. Everything worked fine for months and out of the blue the screen stopped responding to touch. Everything else worked fine as far as I could tell. Even in TWRP touch was gone so I figured maybe it was a cheap screen or something like that. I took it apart and the backlight was falling apart. Ordered a new screen that had the frame with it to save time on reassembly and because the old one was a little tweaked. Same problem, ran the RUU from Windows, ran different RUU's from several threads via Fastboot. Ran the latest firmware package on Santods thread and still nothing. It has to be the motherboard at this point right? The display and digitizer cables go right into the motherboard and the only cable that looks replaceable goes up int the daughter board with the cameras and top speaker assembly. Am I missing something or should I just scrap this mess?
lightweaponx said:
I bought my brother a second-hand M8. It had a cracked screen but it was really cheap. I put the new screen in and a new SIM card reader. Everything worked fine for months and out of the blue the screen stopped responding to touch. Everything else worked fine as far as I could tell. Even in TWRP touch was gone so I figured maybe it was a cheap screen or something like that. I took it apart and the backlight was falling apart. Ordered a new screen that had the frame with it to save time on reassembly and because the old one was a little tweaked. Same problem, ran the RUU from Windows, ran different RUU's from several threads via Fastboot. Ran the latest firmware package on Santods thread and still nothing. It has to be the motherboard at this point right? The display and digitizer cables go right into the motherboard and the only cable that looks replaceable goes up int the daughter board with the cameras and top speaker assembly. Am I missing something or should I just scrap this mess?
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When I swapped out the battery in mine the screen was unresponsive and it was becaus a ribbon cable was misaligned in the connector. I cannot rememer Which one it was but I hope this helps.
bug6810 said:
When I swapped out the battery in mine the screen was unresponsive and it was becaus a ribbon cable was misaligned in the connector. I cannot rememer Which one it was but I hope this helps.
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I checked all of the ribbon cables multiple times and sadly that had no effect. Thank you for trying though!
lightweaponx said:
I checked all of the ribbon cables multiple times and sadly that had no effect. Thank you for trying though!
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No problem and good luck!
I am replacing the digitizer for a cracked display issue. The tablet worked with the cracked screen.
New digitizer arrived and i roughed everything together to see that the new digitizer works. It does, so i go for full reassembly.
I have the new digitizer connected, white lines barely visible under the connector edge. The LCD is also connected up to the line. When I power on the device now, I get the short vibration and the LCD has a backlit black screen.
Tried booting into recovery using volume button, no joy. Long pressed the power button and I get 2 vibrations like it is doing a reboot, still no display.
Let it sit fora few minutes and press the reset in the tiny hole. Still no joy.
What can I do now?
Sent from my LG-H815 using XDA-Developers mobile app
Does anyone have a TF700 with a busted screen? Perhaps we could work together on this. I now have a new digitizer and a digitizer+LCD. I just need a motherboard or another working tablet to see if my motherboard is defective. I might have shorted something on this one.
Sent from my LG-H815 using XDA-Developers mobile app
duckredbeard said:
Does anyone have a TF700 with a busted screen? Perhaps we could work together on this. I now have a new digitizer and a digitizer+LCD. I just need a motherboard or another working tablet to see if my motherboard is defective. I might have shorted something on this one.
Hi, did you find a solution at last?
/AB
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