Database Info

HOW TO: replace I727 screen

I didnt see any other threads showing how, just asking how. But i broke my screen monday and thought since I didnt see any I would make a How To.
I take no responsibility if you destroy your phone
I have no ties to this place it just happened to be somewhere in the US that i could buy a screen from in white. http://www.cellphone-repair-shop.com
The arsenal, basic mini magnetic screw driver set, and a guitar pick
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
This is how the screen comes and explains why they are $200 its half the phone
1 remove battery cover , battery, sim card, and sd card if you have one.
2 remove the 7 screws that have red arrows pointing at them, you might keep the order but they seemed to be all the same to me
3.use your finger nail and pick to pull housing apart at the volume rocker and slide down pushing in occasionally to help separate
4. remove all connectors and the 2 black screws with red arrows. also completely remove the little blue wire its the radio antenna wire you will have to reinsert later.
5. slowly and carefully remove the board
6. remove this board with the arrow pointing at it from the arrow side you can use your hands or a pry tool
7 remove the small screw from this board shown with the red arrow and remove the board, just becareful there is adhesive where the yellow arrow is pointing
8. remove the earphone/speaker with your fingers pulling from the earphone jack, it has some adhesive on the earphone jack
9 use a small flat head and pry up the metal part and this will remove it exposing the front camera and proximity sensor
10. use a small flat head screwdriver to carefully pry up the the proximity sensor where the red arrow is this has adhesive holding it down, if it doesnt come up with the adhesive you will want to remove you will have to reuse it
and there ya go. now all your have to do is take your new screen and reverse all the steps and everything should work just fine
also if you are really careful you can remove your IMEI sticker with a razor blade and hairdryer and transfer it to your new screen =)
thanks for looking
chris

Nice writeup. Sticky pls!

good job man, you've got the balls to try it out on such a new phone without many people posting feedback

Wonderful write up! If I was a admin I will definitely make it a sticky....
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using XDA

It is truly a painless process. Broke mine on Dec 12th, and just fixed it Wednesday. 7 minutes and it was done. The hardest part is actually getting the new screen. Most online stores stay back ordered. But I am so glad to have it back again.

rebel1699 said:
It is truly a painless process.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
$200 for a new screen doesn't sound painless. Thanks for the info. Very detailed.
Sent from my SGH~I727~Running MHX~SUPERLITE~3.0

200$ still seemes awefully expensive for that, i've never seen such a high price for a lcd/digitizer assembly. I guess i'll have to take extra care of it

Wow! You could teach this to Samsung techs!
Sent from my SGH-I727R using xda premium

thanks. yeah alot of the places i found that had them on ebay was in china and i didnt feel like waiting 3 weeks for something that may or may not be OEM. i came across that place via a google search and called them to make sure they had it in stock. as far as it being 200 its a little more then just digitizer and lcd its like half of the phone. i know i saw one post where someone was compairing it to the $10 3g/s iphone screens.
but i agree the tear down wasnt that hard by any means just takes some care removing the parts with adhesive .I just like helping people with something that i come across

I got mine for $169.99. Shortly after, they raised it to $199.99. It is due to the limited availibility of the part I would guess. Took forever for me to get one in.

can any one give me the part number of white LCD screen of Skyrocket...

nkamurlekar said:
can any one give me the part number of white LCD screen of Skyrocket...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
as far as from the company that i got my screen from this is the sku number
GH97-12908B

Wow! Great job ... thanks for sharing.

Great, can you share from where you bought it... i want to buy white LCD Screen

Also be advised- Depending where you get it from, you may have less work to do. The one I got already had the USB connection/ charger board and the proximity sensor and front facing camera installed. I only had to add the main board and antenna assembly. Pretty cool, as I now have extras of those things. Never hurts to have spares!

The place I got it from is in my how to
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using XDA App

Thanks for the high quality images. I replaced my broken screen last night...everything works great. The new screen I ordered from dealrepairs came unattached to the plastic front adding a step. I had to pry off the old broken glass and lcd piece by piece with a razor blade since it's glued in. Have to be careful at the bottom where the home button sensors are attached. The new screen had three pieces of plastic over the adhesive back including a small red piece that had to be removed before setting back into the plastic base.

msprus said:
Thanks for the high quality images. I replaced my broken screen last night...everything works great. The new screen I ordered from dealrepairs came unattached to the plastic front adding a step. I had to pry off the old broken glass and lcd piece by piece with a razor blade since it's glued in. Have to be careful at the bottom where the home button sensors are attached. The new screen had three pieces of plastic over the adhesive back including a small red piece that had to be removed before setting back into the plastic base.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As he said, that plastic base has to be peeled off the screen. Most screens come that way without the plastic bezel. So expect some fun guys.
Hairdryer helps loosen the double sided glue. It looks easy (and is) with a whole screen, when cracked though... OMG /wrist.
Be careful with a razor to peel the tape off the glass for the button sensors. The glass and the razor can damage the filament and/or the LED solder joint.

Most places I see on eBay show a picture like this:
What's up with that? Can we actually remove all this stuff? Or do the boards come like on the OP's picture?

My glass broke, but digitizer and lcd are fine. I just received the glass only from ebay yesterday. blkkouki, how hard do you think it would be to separate the glass from lcd and digitizer and glue the new glass to old lcd/digitizer? I know I will need a heat gun. Thanks.

Samsung Captivate i897 Screen Take Apart Repair Guide

We offer this written repair guide to assist you in replacing the screen on your Samsung Captivate i897. We take you through each step by step teardown, from screw removals, to flex cables, mainboard and much more.
This guide will help you install the following Samsung Captivate i897 part (s):
Samsung Captivate LCD + Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
And Other Samsung Captivate i897 Parts
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Samsung Captivate i897 take apart/repair guide:
First remove the back cover, battery, sim card, and SD card from the phone.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Figure 1​
Remove all six screws on the back of the cover shown in Figure 1 and keep them somewhere safe .Two of them is a little tricky to get to. What you need to do, is GENTLY pull up in the center of the battery latch, and then pull out, it should slide out relatively easily. The final two screws should now be reachable.
Start with the bottom end of the phone first, and begin to pry the screen out from the edges. The bezel and back cover of the phone are all one piece around the screen. The bottom edge should come off without too much trouble.
Figure 2​
Release the last clip at the top from the rest of the phone: With a plastic tool or very small flathead screw driver, VERY carefully lift one side of the case as shown in the picture above, slide the driver head in and gently pry up. The last clip should come free without too much force.
Figure 3​
Everything with a red arrow as shown in the Figure 3 needs to come off of the mainboard to enable removal. There are a couple more things to do before we can pull that mainboard off.
First, we need to unlatch the ribbon cable from the speaker. Flip the back clamp on the connector up to enable release of the cable. Carefully remove a piece of blue tape over the connector and cable.
Figure 4​
There's one last screw to take care of as shown in Figure 4. Once that is out, you can pull the right side of the board up, and the left should follow pretty easily, just be careful of your cables and be absolutely sure everything is disconnected before you pull that board off.
Here is the front side of the board with all of the shielding removed. This basically entails taking the micro SD and sim card board off. When doing this, be sure to disconnect the cable that runs from the top board to the underside of the main board.
If you are replacing the LCD or touch screen digitizer, you will want to use your hot air gun or hair dryer to heat up the glue that holds the glass in place, and then you can gently pry it off using your open safe pry tool.
That completes the step by step teardown of the Samsung Captivate.
Now you will be able to replace any parts on your Samsung Captivate i897.
Simply replace the damaged parts with the new ones and reverse these instructions to put your phone back together.

I know you're trying to help and all, but we already have a Captivate tear down guide...

Never hurt to have more than one guide. Read twice, tear apart once
Sent from my HTC HD2 using xda premium

Wdustin1 said:
Never hurt to have more than one guide. Read twice, tear apart once
Sent from my HTC HD2 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 thanks for your time and effort! It will be enjoyed by many people... Think I just might replace a couple screens...
Sent from my SGH-I897 using XDA App

My bad. Didn't see there was already a guide for this model.
You can never have too much free help though right!

Thanks for the guide!
I was hoping to get some help here - I just got a used captivate for free, the buttons and the sound didn't work, so it wasn't much use to the owner..
I decided to get inside and see what might be the matter...and lo and behold, it looks like a pin got disconnected from the mainboard.
What steps would I need to take to try to re-attach it?
I've attached a pic of the pin in question.

Check out our downloadable version of this Captivate i897 written repair guide. Makes it a bit easier if you want to print out the instructions in full.

Keep it up. Your guide is very informative. Thanks

timm.avouris said:
Keep it up. Your guide is very informative. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to help!

Thanks for this! Wish i had this when i changed out one before. Used a video but this gives a little more detail.

imageek72 said:
Thanks for this! Wish i had this when i changed out one before. Used a video but this gives a little more detail.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Glad to help!

imageek72 said:
Thanks for this! Wish i had this when i changed out one before. Used a video but this gives a little more detail.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the kind words!

Same for I896
Are the I896 and I897 screen+digitizer identical? I'm ordering from Canada, and all of the screens have the AT&T logo at the top, while my current one that I want to replace does not have that logo. Will the AT&T lcd+digitzer still work?

Thanks!

theBasher91 said:
Are the I896 and I897 screen+digitizer identical? I'm ordering from Canada, and all of the screens have the AT&T logo at the top, while my current one that I want to replace does not have that logo. Will the AT&T lcd+digitzer still work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It will if you do not mind haven the AT&T logo at the top.

Broken Screen, Need help knowing what to replace.

The glass part of my screen broke recently but it kept functioning, I could still use it like nothing was wrong. Then earlier today my screen went black but I can still feel the haptic feedback when pressing the menu and other buttons. I would just like to know, do I have to buy the digitizer along with the screen, just the screen or just the LCD. Thanks in advance.

Search replacing screen i727 xda. It's been discussed before. From what I remember you need to replace the screen and digitizer. It's next to impossible to separate the two.
God promised men that he'd put beautiful women in all corners of the world. Then he laughed and laughed and made the world round

jd1639 said:
Search replacing screen i727 xda. It's been discussed before. From what I remember you need to replace the screen and digitizer. It's next to impossible to separate the two.
God promised men that he'd put beautiful women in all corners of the world. Then he laughed and laughed and made the world round
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the help

thefief said:
Thanks for the help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome
Sent from my SGH-I727R using xda app-developers app

thefief said:
The glass part of my screen broke recently but it kept functioning, I could still use it like nothing was wrong. Then earlier today my screen went black but I can still feel the haptic feedback when pressing the menu and other buttons. I would just like to know, do I have to buy the digitizer along with the screen, just the screen or just the LCD. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After changing a bunch of screens for both apple and android....I would always recommend buying the complete LCD & digitizer screen replacement referred to as a screen assembly....if not it involves heat guns lots of glue that is not ment to unstick and so forth..... Most devices including the i727 make changing the screen assembly easy...
There are plenty of sites out there to show you step by step for most devices such as ifixit its my go to...for many devices and they have parts also. YouTube is another treasure trove.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using xda app-developers app

Fixing screen
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I had just gotten my Skyrocket setup exactly like I wanted it and then it slipped off the seat of the car and I stepped on it. You have to replace the entire screen/digitizer assembly. There are some good you tubes on how to do that. I'll let you in on a "what not to do". I inadvertently severed the cable to the lighted buttons. No prob its an $8.00 fix. I put the new screen back in the phone, which is held by double sided tape so it wouldn't hurt to order some also. When the new cable came I looked at the phone and thought the hole at the top of the screen would be good leverage to remove the screen as I had scraped off most of the old adhesive. That was a mistake and almost a huge mistake. I cracked the new screen when I pulled on that opening on the new screen. I was just about to throw it in the trash and thought that I had the screen cable readily accessible I should plug it in. It worked perfectly- the digitizer doesn't go up that far and my case protector covers 95% of the broken screen area. It has worked perfectly since before Embryo 5. One of these days I'll get around to replacing the screen with a new one but not today. Have a pix attached.
thefief said:
The glass part of my screen broke recently but it kept functioning, I could still use it like nothing was wrong. Then earlier today my screen went black but I can still feel the haptic feedback when pressing the menu and other buttons. I would just like to know, do I have to buy the digitizer along with the screen, just the screen or just the LCD. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

thefief said:
The glass part of my screen broke recently but it kept functioning, I could still use it like nothing was wrong. Then earlier today my screen went black but I can still feel the haptic feedback when pressing the menu and other buttons. I would just like to know, do I have to buy the digitizer along with the screen, just the screen or just the LCD. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I broke my screen and replaced it for $150 off ebay. Just buy the LCD, it comes with the digitizer and faceplate, everything you need. You can't just separate the two and do it yourself for cheap, you'll ruin it. Took me no more than 10 minutes from start to finish. I recommend getting something to pry open your phone (the kits are like $2) because if you use anything like a flathead or what not, you'll scratch and chip the edges. Nails work but it's frustrating and you might put too much force trying to pry it and snap a clip.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vf6jqYejWNU (try to ignore his coke nail)
This video is what I used to make sure there weren't any cables I had to worry about when opening it. 7 screws, some patience prying it apart and your phone is open. The rest is just swapping out the internals to your new screen. It's really simple. Not worth sending it off for $200+ and being without your phone for a week just to keep your warranty. It's probably up or almost up anyway and you still have a nice, new-looking phone to sell when you're done with it.
Plus you get the satisfaction of fixing your phone yourself.

SmartWatch 2 - Inside (PHOTOS)

Have you ever wondered what's inside your SmartWatch 2 ? No need to google, you won't find. Here is what's inside. After a day from swiming pool some water got inside, no idea how , so I opened it to dry it because I couldn't turn it on. Now rests in dry rice, I will come back with and update if I could make it work again, also I need to find a way to glue the screen to the bottom / motherboard part ( 1st pic ) to make it waterproof again. I will keep you guys posted.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

I had one break from diving in the ocean. The USB port is not a very good seal. Things like chlorine change the surface tension of water and may allow it to penetrate more than tap water.
I'm gonna be opening mine soon too. (I made a QI charging mod) but I want to see if I can put a coil on the inside, instead of the outside.

Well, that can be true, the port doesn't supports the pressure more than 1 meter.
Now seems it is working again! I glued the screen with a black silicone, looks like new.

While I don't think swimming with the watch was the best idea... I am truly impressed by your repairs and getting the watch to work again. Congrats, and thanks for posting the pictures!

Nomad1600 said:
While I don't think swimming with the watch was the best idea... I am truly impressed by your repairs and getting the watch to work again. Congrats, and thanks for posting the pictures!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup that was not a good idea, it's good to take a shower it it, not for swimming at all. Yeah, thank you, that was a challenge to open it and dry it. First I tought I completely lost it ... but seems it wasn't like that.

So, the screen is glued to the front glass I'm figuring. I broke mine and I'm guessing I need to replace the whole screen.

Yup, you are right, the front glass is glued to the screen / display. The only way will be to completely replace the front part (front glass and screen). Contact SONY Service and ask for a screen replacement, they will help you as long as you won't find replacement parts on eBay ... .
It would be great if you will keep us posted to see how you fix it.

hanosky said:
Have you ever wondered what's inside your SmartWatch 2 ? No need to google, you won't find. Here is what's inside. After a day from swiming pool some water got inside, no idea how , so I opened it to dry it because I couldn't turn it on. Now rests in dry rice, I will come back with and update if I could make it work again, also I need to find a way to glue the screen to the bottom / motherboard part ( 1st pic ) to make it waterproof again. I will keep you guys posted.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
actually it's on the first page when i google
http://www.mobiflip.de/sony-smartwatch-2-in-einzelteile-zerlegt/
and can you post with something other than dropbox? work blocks it...
*edit
got it on my fone

hanosky said:
Yup, you are right, the front glass is glued to the screen / display. The only way will be to completely replace the front part (front glass and screen). Contact SONY Service and ask for a screen replacement, they will help you as long as you won't find replacement parts on eBay ... .
It would be great if you will keep us posted to see how you fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I fixed it, purchased the LG G Watch
Perhaps at a future point in time I will find a cheap screen, cause at the current price of the watch it will cost me almost the same to repair it here in Romania (plus the time and frustration as the Sony service is out of town).

kind3r said:
So, the screen is glued to the front glass I'm figuring. I broke mine and I'm guessing I need to replace the whole screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
did any dinosaur walked on it!

naheel azawy said:
did any dinosaur walked on it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol, no
Just dropped it of the table (1.2m height) onto ceramic tiles, impact was on the side, picked it up and said "wow, it didn't break". 30 seconds later first cracks started to appear. 2 min later it looked like that.

kill_dano said:
I had one break from diving in the ocean. The USB port is not a very good seal. Things like chlorine change the surface tension of water and may allow it to penetrate more than tap water.
I'm gonna be opening mine soon too. (I made a QI charging mod) but I want to see if I can put a coil on the inside, instead of the outside.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
QI charging mod? Pics please

Missing cap from mainboard - Safe to use?

Hello.I replaced the on off button of my brothers nexus 5 but during puting all things back together i realized that
i have lost this small metallic cap as you can see in the picture below.
h**p://imageshack.com/a/img923/6876/jx8t6B.jpg
Is there gonna be any danger using the phone without this cap?
Thank you
Also in this picture you can see how it was before with the cap
h**p://imageshack.com/a/img922/9288/QS3ICp.jpg

It s only an electromagnetic shield, I think you will not note any difference. You can simply replace it by copper or aluminium tape, I buy it at a Chinese shop for 3 euros when I need it for similar jobs

Axel85 said:
It s only an electromagnetic shield, I think you will not note any difference. You can simply replace it by copper or aluminium tape, I buy it at a Chinese shop for 3 euros when I need it for similar jobs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply.My main concern is for any radiation ( extra electromagnetic towards users head )leakage that this cap normally holds, you know if there is any case messing with phone's sar or something like that.

jojospunto said:
Thanks for your reply.My main concern is for any radiation ( extra electromagnetic towards users head )leakage that this cap normally holds, you know if there is any case messing with phone's sar or something like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don t think there's any difference with or without this cap,the em shield is only to protect inside components from the phone antenna's. Like for the compass to make it more accurate,or to not disturb other components. The big ic marked broadcom under this cap is the wifi controller so maybe you could only notice some small wifi problems .But you can fix it with a cheap aluminium tape, you have only to recreate the cap, and everything will be back to normal working environment

Axel85 said:
I don t think there's any difference with or without this cap,the em shield is only to protect inside components from the phone antenna's. Like for the compass to make it more accurate,or to not disturb other components. The big ic marked broadcom under this cap is the wifi controller so maybe you could only notice some small wifi problems .But you can fix it with a cheap aluminium tape, you have only to recreate the cap, and everything will be back to normal working environment
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you believe that cap could be used like a heat spreader?If yes i should look for a heat spreader solution

jojospunto said:
Do you believe that cap could be used like a heat spreader?If yes i should look for a heat spreader solution
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No it s only a shield ,I m sure. Replace it by aluminium tape and you re OK, I m a technician, I know what I'm talking about

Axel85 said:
No it s only a shield ,I m sure. Replace it by aluminium tape and you re OK, I m a technician, I know what I'm talking about
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found this tape as i took a quick look at the garage .
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Do you believe it could do the job?I mean it shows on the sticker pipes

jojospunto said:
I found this tape as i took a quick look at the garage .
Do you believe it could do the job?I mean it shows on the sticker pipes
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes Sure, it's the tape I was talking about. Be only careful to cut it and apply it only over the missing cap place

Axel85 said:
Yes Sure, it's the tape I was talking about. Be only careful to cut it and apply it only over the missing cap place
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ichecked it with a multimeter and i show that the sticky side( below) of the tape is no conductive only the upper side is conductive

Y
Yes, I know but I said that because if you cut too much tape when you put the plastic frame back over the motherboard, you could have some shorts. Yo have to do a nice and clean job,or it s better to leave it free

Axel85 said:
Yes, I know but I said that because if you cut too much tape when you put the plastic frame back over the motherboard, you could have some shorts. Yo have to do a nice and clean job,or it s better to leave it free
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No i meant that if the tape needs to be conductive from the down side so it can conduct with the rest of the aluminium frame that on the board

jojospunto said:
No i meant that if the tape needs to be conductive from the down side so it can conduct with the rest of the aluminium frame that on the board
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Conduction with the rest of the cage would be the best you can do,but even if it s not in conduction it s better than leave it open. If you want to get conduction,fold one of the angle a little bit(only a very small portion),so you have the conductive side attached to the adhesive insulated side,and in contact with the cage,and cover the small open are with another small piece of aluminium tape. I had to solve this problem before with another phone, and I bought copper tape,and soldered one angle to the cage, but you have to own a good rework station or at least a good soldering iron and skills,or you can destroy your device. The solution I gave you is more affordable at home

Axel85 said:
Conduction with the rest of the cage would be the best you can do,but even if it s not in conduction it s better than leave it open. If you want to get conduction,fold one of the angle a little bit(only a very small portion),so you have the conductive side attached to the adhesive insulated side,and in contact with the cage,and cover the small open are with another small piece of aluminium tape. I had to solve this problem before with another phone, and I bought copper tape,and soldered one angle to the cage, but you have to own a good rework station or at least a good soldering iron and skills,or you can destroy your device. The solution I gave you is more affordable at home
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you very much for your help i will give it a try

Ok, be gentle and clean, and everything will be ok. For the fold part, do it only on a very small area, a triangle of 3mm is more then enough. Or if it better you can cut the tape 2 mm longer on a side and fold it, maybe it s even easier. If you want prior to reassembly you can post me a picture

Axel85 said:
Ok, be gentle and clean, and everything will be ok. For the fold part, do it only on a very small area, a triangle of 3mm is more then enough. Or if it better you can cut the tape 2 mm longer on a side and fold it, maybe it s even easier. If you want prior to reassembly you can post me a picture
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will you sent you a pic as soon as i will get it done
Probably on Monday. Thanks again for your help