Hello.I replaced the on off button of my brothers nexus 5 but during puting all things back together i realized that
i have lost this small metallic cap as you can see in the picture below.
h**p://imageshack.com/a/img923/6876/jx8t6B.jpg
Is there gonna be any danger using the phone without this cap?
Thank you
Also in this picture you can see how it was before with the cap
h**p://imageshack.com/a/img922/9288/QS3ICp.jpg
It s only an electromagnetic shield, I think you will not note any difference. You can simply replace it by copper or aluminium tape, I buy it at a Chinese shop for 3 euros when I need it for similar jobs
Axel85 said:
It s only an electromagnetic shield, I think you will not note any difference. You can simply replace it by copper or aluminium tape, I buy it at a Chinese shop for 3 euros when I need it for similar jobs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply.My main concern is for any radiation ( extra electromagnetic towards users head )leakage that this cap normally holds, you know if there is any case messing with phone's sar or something like that.
jojospunto said:
Thanks for your reply.My main concern is for any radiation ( extra electromagnetic towards users head )leakage that this cap normally holds, you know if there is any case messing with phone's sar or something like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don t think there's any difference with or without this cap,the em shield is only to protect inside components from the phone antenna's. Like for the compass to make it more accurate,or to not disturb other components. The big ic marked broadcom under this cap is the wifi controller so maybe you could only notice some small wifi problems .But you can fix it with a cheap aluminium tape, you have only to recreate the cap, and everything will be back to normal working environment
Axel85 said:
I don t think there's any difference with or without this cap,the em shield is only to protect inside components from the phone antenna's. Like for the compass to make it more accurate,or to not disturb other components. The big ic marked broadcom under this cap is the wifi controller so maybe you could only notice some small wifi problems .But you can fix it with a cheap aluminium tape, you have only to recreate the cap, and everything will be back to normal working environment
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you believe that cap could be used like a heat spreader?If yes i should look for a heat spreader solution
jojospunto said:
Do you believe that cap could be used like a heat spreader?If yes i should look for a heat spreader solution
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No it s only a shield ,I m sure. Replace it by aluminium tape and you re OK, I m a technician, I know what I'm talking about
Axel85 said:
No it s only a shield ,I m sure. Replace it by aluminium tape and you re OK, I m a technician, I know what I'm talking about
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found this tape as i took a quick look at the garage .
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Do you believe it could do the job?I mean it shows on the sticker pipes
jojospunto said:
I found this tape as i took a quick look at the garage .
Do you believe it could do the job?I mean it shows on the sticker pipes
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes Sure, it's the tape I was talking about. Be only careful to cut it and apply it only over the missing cap place
Axel85 said:
Yes Sure, it's the tape I was talking about. Be only careful to cut it and apply it only over the missing cap place
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ichecked it with a multimeter and i show that the sticky side( below) of the tape is no conductive only the upper side is conductive
Y
Yes, I know but I said that because if you cut too much tape when you put the plastic frame back over the motherboard, you could have some shorts. Yo have to do a nice and clean job,or it s better to leave it free
Axel85 said:
Yes, I know but I said that because if you cut too much tape when you put the plastic frame back over the motherboard, you could have some shorts. Yo have to do a nice and clean job,or it s better to leave it free
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No i meant that if the tape needs to be conductive from the down side so it can conduct with the rest of the aluminium frame that on the board
jojospunto said:
No i meant that if the tape needs to be conductive from the down side so it can conduct with the rest of the aluminium frame that on the board
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Conduction with the rest of the cage would be the best you can do,but even if it s not in conduction it s better than leave it open. If you want to get conduction,fold one of the angle a little bit(only a very small portion),so you have the conductive side attached to the adhesive insulated side,and in contact with the cage,and cover the small open are with another small piece of aluminium tape. I had to solve this problem before with another phone, and I bought copper tape,and soldered one angle to the cage, but you have to own a good rework station or at least a good soldering iron and skills,or you can destroy your device. The solution I gave you is more affordable at home
Axel85 said:
Conduction with the rest of the cage would be the best you can do,but even if it s not in conduction it s better than leave it open. If you want to get conduction,fold one of the angle a little bit(only a very small portion),so you have the conductive side attached to the adhesive insulated side,and in contact with the cage,and cover the small open are with another small piece of aluminium tape. I had to solve this problem before with another phone, and I bought copper tape,and soldered one angle to the cage, but you have to own a good rework station or at least a good soldering iron and skills,or you can destroy your device. The solution I gave you is more affordable at home
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you very much for your help i will give it a try
Ok, be gentle and clean, and everything will be ok. For the fold part, do it only on a very small area, a triangle of 3mm is more then enough. Or if it better you can cut the tape 2 mm longer on a side and fold it, maybe it s even easier. If you want prior to reassembly you can post me a picture
Axel85 said:
Ok, be gentle and clean, and everything will be ok. For the fold part, do it only on a very small area, a triangle of 3mm is more then enough. Or if it better you can cut the tape 2 mm longer on a side and fold it, maybe it s even easier. If you want prior to reassembly you can post me a picture
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will you sent you a pic as soon as i will get it done
Probably on Monday. Thanks again for your help
Related
Hey guys, I'm attempting to replace my digitizer for the second time after my first attempt ended up with a digitizer which was a distinctly different shape than the original and therefore looks terrible! Anyhow I'm looking for a decent adhesive to keep it in place. Would pretty much anything do or does anyone have a preference?
Cheers!
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Here is the stuff I used, working great so far.. Not sure where you could get it (maybe frys or something) (I grabbed some from work).. its thin, double sided, super sticky once it sets, and made by 3M.. I just cut it into very thin strips using a ruler and exacto blade.. If you have trouble finding some, I have enough leftover that I could mail you to get the job done..
fam
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA App
also, i used a couple drops of super glue on the top portion (where there is a decent amount of plastic surface area)..
Cheers, that looks pretty perfect, didn't even know that was available! I'm in the UK but thanks for offering I should hopefully be able to find some locally, thanks again.
Hollow.Droid said:
Cheers, that looks pretty perfect, didn't even know that was available! I'm in the UK but thanks for offering I should hopefully be able to find some locally, thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if you cant find it locally try amazon or:
http://cgi.ebay.com/2mm-3M-Adhesive...391482?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item4aa6a4b2fa
another thing, something that is probably more "locally available" would be to buy the 3M digitizer tape for an iphone, and cut it up into the 4 strips you'll need
I used some of the loctite superglue gel. Very very thin layer of it and it worked great, I didn't like how the original digitizer sat flush with the frame of the phone, after using the superglue the digitizer is slightly below the frame so it the phone was dropped face down the frame would hit the ground first hopefully saving the screen
famandeggs said:
if you cant find it locally try amazon or:
http://cgi.ebay.com/2mm-3M-Adhesive...391482?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item4aa6a4b2fa
another thing, something that is probably more "locally available" would be to buy the 3M digitizer tape for an iphone, and cut it up into the 4 strips you'll need
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ended up going with this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...223992&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_3749wt_905
I made sure it wasn't the foam kind and it's double sided so should hopefully do the job nicely. Fingers crossed
dowmace said:
I used some of the loctite superglue gel. Very very thin layer of it and it worked great, I didn't like how the original digitizer sat flush with the frame of the phone, after using the superglue the digitizer is slightly below the frame so it the phone was dropped face down the frame would hit the ground first hopefully saving the screen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I'm going with a combo of the tape and superglue, just because I don't trust myself to be delicate with superglue down the sides
I'll have to post some pics of the before and after, just to give a sense of how crap the first replacement was. It's so poor I'm using a full body case to keep the digitizer held in! It also lacks the bottom buttons and is the incorrect size (Around 1cm in total, top and bottom) compared to the original digitizer. It's gonna be a nice day when it's back to tip top condition
Cheers buddies! very useful stuff
Anyone happen to know where I can pick up the thick foamy type adhesive? Some of it is torn around edges & want to fill in the gaps with something better than 4 layers of the thin 3m stuff. I might try tiny strips of electrical tape in those spots, but would rather proper real thing.
Hi
Re
Here is the stuff I used, working great so far.. Not sure where you could get it (maybe frys or something) (I grabbed some from work).. its thin, double sided, super sticky once it sets, and made by 3M.. I just cut it into very thin strips using a ruler and exacto blade.. If you have trouble finding some, I have enough leftover that I could mail you to get the job done..
fam
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA App[/QUOTE]
Hi I am trying to replace my nephews screen and need the adheisive do you still have some left and are you still willing to send it. I cant find it anywhere
adhesive for digitizer...
Hollow.Droid said:
Hey guys, I'm attempting to replace my digitizer for the second time after my first attempt ended up with a digitizer which was a distinctly different shape than the original and therefore looks terrible! Anyhow I'm looking for a decent adhesive to keep it in place. Would pretty much anything do or does anyone have a preference?
Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
..
you can use zhan lida t8000.
its widely use for mobile screen like asus,samsung etc
it can easily removed at time of replacement usnig dryer or heat gun.
Hi, Just decided to take some 3M Carbon Fiber tape and apply them on my SGS case... The result is pretty good in my opinion. Calling it Galaxy S Carbon now Here goes the pictures. Sorry for bad english.
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I have no camera here to take pictures closed on the device, so don't ask for it
EDIT: Some finished better light condition pictures
very cool bro
Very nice. Saw a friend do this with his iPhone 4. Guess not everyone likes the glass back, who knew.
Same thing I´ve done
Indeed, I did it a bit more precisely
Woah, I'm really impressed by both your efforts. I didn't even think of doing this, but now...... I think I might look into it. Any tips for anything that could save me trouble down the track?
And Vln_Thomas: Did you measure out a piece beforehand and then stick it on or did you stick it on and then cut?
EDIT: Although, now that I think about it, I don't even know where I'd get carbon fibre tape. Australia sucks like that.
Vln_Thomas said:
Same thing I´ve done
Indeed, I did it a bit more precisely
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did you do to make it so precisely? Appreciate
I´ve simply bought a 4*8 Inches sized Fibre tape.
Then i attached it on my backcover, heated the tape with a hair dryer and pulled it around the corners. When a part of the Cover was without folds, I let it cool down so that the tape cured and then cut a part of the fibre tape off.
Then I heated the cover again and the procedure started once more.
It took me for about 45 minutes and a very steady hand, even though a friend supported me.
That's awesome! Where did you buy the tape? I'm hoping that it was online...
Here : 3M™ DI-NOC™ CA-421 Carbon Folie
10*20cm are 4*8 Inches, enough for the Galaxy S
Greetings from Germany
Vln_Thomas said:
I´ve simply bought a 4*8 Inches sized Fibre tape.
Then i attached it on my backcover, heated the tape with a hair dryer and pulled it around the corners. When a part of the Cover was without folds, I let it cool down so that the tape cured and then cut a part of the fibre tape of.
Then I heated the cover again and the procedure started once more.
It took me for about 45 minutes and a very steady hand, even though a friend supported me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly the same here... My edges just didn't get perfect because i was afraid to break them... I was usign the hair drier and it looked like the back cover was going way too wobbly (i don't know the word opposit to "hard"). So pulled it as I could by the edges, wait to cool down and cut off the resting tape..
Nice mod man, and btw is that a tamiya tt-01e you have there in the background? haha
Adam01Rule said:
Nice mod man, and btw is that a tamiya tt-01e you have there in the background? haha
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha yeah, tt01 ED actually
oh man, your sgs looks cool tho! thumbs up!
Very cool mod.
But just a warning, the backcover usually gets really hot when the phone is charging while running demanding apps. So you might want to be careful doing that in case it is not releasing its heat buildups as easy anymore. Would be sad to have it overheat after making it look so awesome.
kblood said:
Very cool mod.
But just a warning, the backcover usually gets really hot when the phone is charging while running demanding apps. So you might want to be careful doing that in case it is not releasing its heat buildups as easy anymore. Would be sad to have it overheat after making it look so awesome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the warning but i don't think it can get any hotter.. i was already using a tpu full back cover, some extra tape will not kill it
No problem at all with overheating....
Same temperatures as before
Vln_Thomas said:
No problem at all with overheating....
Same temperatures as before
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess so, I just thought it might become a problem if getting rid of all that heat got harder. Mainly because the original gets very hot, and the phone once came up with a warning on mine about not charging the phone while using it so much, I think I was using it to watch a full HD video or something, that I had not bothered to convert to something more fitting to the SGS. But it is nice to use it as a portable media centre.
What a great idea!! Here's me probably bought about 6 different battery covers and cases and always got rid of them because they never fit properly, or if I find one i DO like then they get cracks or the paint wears off.
And this is using the original! Brilliant idea.
Does the tape make the sides of the cover wider than the phone? You know how some cheap badly fitting battery covers seems to stick out at the sides where they should join seamlessly?
Of course it´s a bit thicker, but it fits pretty well Much better than those rubbish Back-covers from Ebay
And to clarify it: There is no problem with overheating at my phone at all....
Battery temps are the same as without the tape so i guess CPU and everything else will be the same too
Anyway temperatures highly depend on the modem-file you use...
I've got (yet another) back cover on the way from eBay, but I think this one may fit just right after talking to the seller... but this carbon tape idea i love! I was thinking about sanding down my stock Samsung back because i love the fit and everything, its' just too damn slippery.... and paint would scratch off over time. but sanding it (if it could be done evenly) would fix that.
Might consider this idea though. I wonder what different types of tape there are.... hmmm....
I didnt see any other threads showing how, just asking how. But i broke my screen monday and thought since I didnt see any I would make a How To.
I take no responsibility if you destroy your phone
I have no ties to this place it just happened to be somewhere in the US that i could buy a screen from in white. http://www.cellphone-repair-shop.com
The arsenal, basic mini magnetic screw driver set, and a guitar pick
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This is how the screen comes and explains why they are $200 its half the phone
1 remove battery cover , battery, sim card, and sd card if you have one.
2 remove the 7 screws that have red arrows pointing at them, you might keep the order but they seemed to be all the same to me
3.use your finger nail and pick to pull housing apart at the volume rocker and slide down pushing in occasionally to help separate
4. remove all connectors and the 2 black screws with red arrows. also completely remove the little blue wire its the radio antenna wire you will have to reinsert later.
5. slowly and carefully remove the board
6. remove this board with the arrow pointing at it from the arrow side you can use your hands or a pry tool
7 remove the small screw from this board shown with the red arrow and remove the board, just becareful there is adhesive where the yellow arrow is pointing
8. remove the earphone/speaker with your fingers pulling from the earphone jack, it has some adhesive on the earphone jack
9 use a small flat head and pry up the metal part and this will remove it exposing the front camera and proximity sensor
10. use a small flat head screwdriver to carefully pry up the the proximity sensor where the red arrow is this has adhesive holding it down, if it doesnt come up with the adhesive you will want to remove you will have to reuse it
and there ya go. now all your have to do is take your new screen and reverse all the steps and everything should work just fine
also if you are really careful you can remove your IMEI sticker with a razor blade and hairdryer and transfer it to your new screen =)
thanks for looking
chris
Nice writeup. Sticky pls!
good job man, you've got the balls to try it out on such a new phone without many people posting feedback
Wonderful write up! If I was a admin I will definitely make it a sticky....
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using XDA
It is truly a painless process. Broke mine on Dec 12th, and just fixed it Wednesday. 7 minutes and it was done. The hardest part is actually getting the new screen. Most online stores stay back ordered. But I am so glad to have it back again.
rebel1699 said:
It is truly a painless process.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
$200 for a new screen doesn't sound painless. Thanks for the info. Very detailed.
Sent from my SGH~I727~Running MHX~SUPERLITE~3.0
200$ still seemes awefully expensive for that, i've never seen such a high price for a lcd/digitizer assembly. I guess i'll have to take extra care of it
Wow! You could teach this to Samsung techs!
Sent from my SGH-I727R using xda premium
thanks. yeah alot of the places i found that had them on ebay was in china and i didnt feel like waiting 3 weeks for something that may or may not be OEM. i came across that place via a google search and called them to make sure they had it in stock. as far as it being 200 its a little more then just digitizer and lcd its like half of the phone. i know i saw one post where someone was compairing it to the $10 3g/s iphone screens.
but i agree the tear down wasnt that hard by any means just takes some care removing the parts with adhesive .I just like helping people with something that i come across
I got mine for $169.99. Shortly after, they raised it to $199.99. It is due to the limited availibility of the part I would guess. Took forever for me to get one in.
can any one give me the part number of white LCD screen of Skyrocket...
nkamurlekar said:
can any one give me the part number of white LCD screen of Skyrocket...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
as far as from the company that i got my screen from this is the sku number
GH97-12908B
Wow! Great job ... thanks for sharing.
Great, can you share from where you bought it... i want to buy white LCD Screen
Also be advised- Depending where you get it from, you may have less work to do. The one I got already had the USB connection/ charger board and the proximity sensor and front facing camera installed. I only had to add the main board and antenna assembly. Pretty cool, as I now have extras of those things. Never hurts to have spares!
The place I got it from is in my how to
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using XDA App
Thanks for the high quality images. I replaced my broken screen last night...everything works great. The new screen I ordered from dealrepairs came unattached to the plastic front adding a step. I had to pry off the old broken glass and lcd piece by piece with a razor blade since it's glued in. Have to be careful at the bottom where the home button sensors are attached. The new screen had three pieces of plastic over the adhesive back including a small red piece that had to be removed before setting back into the plastic base.
msprus said:
Thanks for the high quality images. I replaced my broken screen last night...everything works great. The new screen I ordered from dealrepairs came unattached to the plastic front adding a step. I had to pry off the old broken glass and lcd piece by piece with a razor blade since it's glued in. Have to be careful at the bottom where the home button sensors are attached. The new screen had three pieces of plastic over the adhesive back including a small red piece that had to be removed before setting back into the plastic base.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As he said, that plastic base has to be peeled off the screen. Most screens come that way without the plastic bezel. So expect some fun guys.
Hairdryer helps loosen the double sided glue. It looks easy (and is) with a whole screen, when cracked though... OMG /wrist.
Be careful with a razor to peel the tape off the glass for the button sensors. The glass and the razor can damage the filament and/or the LED solder joint.
Most places I see on eBay show a picture like this:
What's up with that? Can we actually remove all this stuff? Or do the boards come like on the OP's picture?
My glass broke, but digitizer and lcd are fine. I just received the glass only from ebay yesterday. blkkouki, how hard do you think it would be to separate the glass from lcd and digitizer and glue the new glass to old lcd/digitizer? I know I will need a heat gun. Thanks.
GUIDE TO LEARN TO REPAIR HARDWARE
This guide is aimed at people who would like to learn how to repair hardware on anything electronic.
this guide will cover the following
-Where to buy parts and names of some parts and how to search for them (main post)
-Setting up a map(for screws/parts) (1st post)
-How to make a basic repair to a phone using your map (2nd post)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
THIS IS A DIY TUTORIAL, THAT MEANS WHATEVER YOU DO/HAVE DONE IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND I AM NOT AT FAULT FOR ANY ISSUES YOU MAY CAUSE IN THE PROCESS OF SOME OF THESE ACTIONS.
NAMES OF PARTS, WHERE TO FIND THEM, HOW TO SEARCH, TIPS AND GUIDES
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WHERE TO FIND PARTS?!?!?!There are a few ways to find parts, the most popular is online, you can find parts on
ebay.com or gumtree.com
but make sure they post to your country.
also you can go to the markets or even repair shops and ask to buy the parts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HOW TO SEARTCH FOR PARTS?!?!?!Proper examples to find parts online by searching you would type your manufacturer, then the model, then then the part eg..
apple iphone 4s digitizer
samsung galaxy s3 lcd screen
if you still cannot find what you are looking for you can add the word "replacement" to the end, eg...
apple iphone 4s digitizer replacement
samsung galaxy s3 lcd screen replacement
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
TIPS FOR SHOPPING ONLINE!?!?!?!Well be aware quality counts
Make sure its 100% the part your looking for
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WHAT COMPANIES DONT TELL ME!?!?!?!Well the biggest stuff-up people do is buy just the digitizer... With most newer phones its impossible to seperate the digitizer and the lcd screen, so you have to buy them already attached together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WHERE CAN I LEARN HOW TO DISMANTLE MY DEVICE!?!?!?!in a short answer youtube.com by typing "how to take apart (Phone manufacturer then model)" eg..
how to take apart htc sensation xl
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
2ND POST CONTAINS SETTING UP A MAP FOR HARDWARE AND SCREWS
SETTING UP A MAP FOR SCREWS AND HARDWARE
Repairing hardware has really only 4 fundamentals. knowing or looking up how to take the object apart, knowing what the problem is and possible ways to fix it, knowing how to replace the part and remembering where what parts and what screws go where.
This is how to set up a map so you do not get confused what parts and what screws go where.
Requirements
1x Fridge magnet
1x Piece of paper
1x Superglue
1x Pen
1x Magnet of some sort
1x Little screwdriver
1x Knife/Blade
10x little tiny cups/container(OPTIONAL)
2x Cardboard sheets the same size as the paper
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Step 1
Draw 10 dots labeled from 1-10 beneath them on the paper and connect the dots from 1-10 as shown
In a part where it doesnt interfere with the dots, draw a square for the screw driver(abit bigger then the screw driver) and magnet and cut the holes as shown
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Step 2
Trace the hole of the screwdriver, onto 1 of the pieces of cardboard and then cut the hole.
Do the same for the magnet on the same piece of cardboard.
Also if your not using cups, cut out a circe around 4cm wide around the dots on the sheet paper and then trace and cut the holes out of the 1st sheet of cardboard
Then on the second sheet, trace the screwdriver hole onto the second in the cardboard abit smaller then the one on the paper.
Then cut the hole only halfway through the piece of cardboard
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Step 3
On the second sheet, glue the magnet next to the screwdriver hole aligning with the hole from the 1s piece of coardboard.
Then Glue the first piece onto of that
Then glue the paper ontop of that
If your using cups glue them ontop of the dots now
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Step 4
Put your screwdriver in the hole and stick the magnet in ontop of your fridge magnet in its hole.
Your result should be something like this.
Now you can pull mobjects apart and keep track of where things go!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
again
again2
last one
One more.
Thanks
Thanks for all
Ricky Divjakovski said:
One more.
Click to expand...
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hello , i have an old allwinner A10 tablet ..
i messed up something while flashing firmware , and later gave it to some repair shop , they couldn't fix it..
when i put in power chord the speaker gets activated and i can hear slight shhhhhhh...... sound and processor gets real hot in 1 minute .. no display .. when i push power button there is a click sound from speaker... i tried connecting usb but nothing happens in pc
is it hardware related or software related ? is there any way to find out if its a hardware related issue
thanks
Software related but has caused hardware problems to the main board, replace the mainboard
I'm using Micromax canvas 2 colors a120 (rebranded my phone agua rio, qmobile noir i9 and wiko rainbow)
While I was removing the casing of the phone by mistakenly I damaged the LCD strip. Check the imaged attached.
Is it repairable via micro soldering.
Or do I have to get another display.
Or is is possible to just change (replace) the strip. If yes where can I get it.
I asked 2-3 guys they told me that micro soldering will work.
Sent from my Micromax AQ4501 using XDA Free mobile app
Is this thread alive some one reply
Sent from my SM-T210 using XDA Free mobile app
In display fingerprint problem.
Hey guys, I am new to XDA so consider me as a newbie. I recently changed the glass of samsung A50 but after the glass change the finger print is not no longer working it just displays a message hold your finger bit longer. I don't understand I have only changed the glass the display is stock and I carefully placed the fingerprint scanner in a tissue so it can't catch any dust etc and I had checked the whole phone properly but I didn't find any problem I just get the same problem whenever I change the glass of any phone which consists of a in display fingerprint sensor. Can you please tell me the problem and guide me through.
So my watch frame had a lug break off it. I figured I would be able to glue it back on however certain types of plastics can be very difficult to glue. I assumed it would be some type of Polyethylene, polypropylene, or ABS. I used an epoxy resin initially which failed. I then used a regular cheapo super glue (cleaning the surface with IPA first.)
The super glue worked great for a few months however i notice it starting to crack change it color from clear to yellow/white.
I recently had to replace my battery and the lug broke off again when removing the back cover.
So now I am back to square one. If i can understand what the frame housing is made of I can pick the best glue/primer.
mrlb said:
So my watch frame had a lug break off it. I figured I would be able to glue it back on however certain types of plastics can be very difficult to glue. I assumed it would be some type of Polyethylene, polypropylene, or ABS. I used an epoxy resin initially which failed. I then used a regular cheapo super glue (cleaning the surface with IPA first.)
The super glue worked great for a few months however i notice it starting to crack change it color from clear to yellow/white.
I recently had to replace my battery and the lug broke off again when removing the back cover.
So now I am back to square one. If i can understand what the frame housing is made of I can pick the best glue/primer.
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As far as I'm aware it isn't plastic it's actually ceramic, in all honesty it's a high end face, normally found on high end running watches.
As for a swap out, no idea bud. Are you still in warranty? Would Huawei do a patch up for you for a price? Can't be that much
dladz said:
As far as I'm aware it isn't plastic it's actually ceramic, in all honesty it's a high end face, normally found on high end running watches.
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Thanks dladz. The watch dial that goes around the screen is the ceramic. But the actual body, the sides where the buttons are and where the watch strap connects the lugs is plastic.
dladz said:
As for a swap out, no idea bud. Are you still in warranty? Would Huawei do a patch up for you for a price? Can't be that much
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I'm 4 years since i purchased so no warranty. For about $35 USD you can buy a aliexpress OEM replacement housing but i decided to use super glue.
The plastic is definitely some kind of Polyethylene, polypropylene, or ABS. I used IPA alcohol to clean the surface and allow the glue to bind better. I used an industrial super glue. It's been holding strong so far the past week so we'll see how that goes.
mrlb said:
Thanks dladz. The watch dial that goes around the screen is the ceramic. But the actual body, the sides where the buttons are and where the watch strap connects the lugs is plastic.
I'm 4 years since i purchased so no warranty. For about $35 USD you can buy a aliexpress OEM replacement housing but i decided to use super glue.
The plastic is definitely some kind of Polyethylene, polypropylene, or ABS. I used IPA alcohol to clean the surface and allow the glue to bind better. I used an industrial super glue. It's been holding strong so far the past week so we'll see how that goes.
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Nice one.
I'd still reach out they may offer a cheap price.
It's probably easier to replace it as a part or in whole
You need to know what you're gluing!!!
Is it a thermal plastic or a thermosetting polymer? Polypropylene is notoriously hard to glue. Polycarbonates can be solvent bonded with tetrahydrofurane.
Forget super glue. Junk.
If it's a high stress load area it will be hard to permanently repair it. It should be cleaned and maybe roughened with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper to give it better surface area.
Get all the old glues off of it!
Clean/degrease with anhydrous isopropyl alcohol. Dry completely. Do not expose LCD displays to this or any solvent, it will poison them.
Many times urethane epoxies are the best choice.
Most specialty epoxies are expensive and very effective if used correctly. This is a urethane epoxy that is slightly flexible but rigid in a thin bonding layer. Its flexibility enhances it's strength. It sets up very fast, about 60-120 seconds working time.
3M Scotch-Weld Urethane Adhesive DP601NS, Gray, 48.5 mL Duo-Pak$15.99
Use on only plastics/materials specified by 3m.
Choose the proper 3m product. If unsure this one is a good bet.
i used it to make a permanent repair on my Khyber Pass Mountain boot, leather to urethane sole. A very tough repair as it's on a high loading area. 5 months still holding.
Note, I transfer out of the original Duo-Pak into separate syringes. The Duo-Pak is a one time use only that needs additional equipment.
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Thanks for the detailed input @blackhawk especially about 3M Scotch-Weld Urethane Adhesive DP601NS this was the sort of specialized glue I was looking for!
I super glued it about a week ago and it's been holding strong so far. If it fails I'll try the Urethane Adhesive.
I used IPA a primer to clean and activate the surface. The plastic was already roughed up by the way it tore.
mrlb said:
Thanks for the detailed input @blackhawk especially about 3M Scotch-Weld Urethane Adhesive DP601NS this was the sort of specialized glue I was looking for!
I super glued it about a week ago and it's been holding strong so far. If it fails I'll try the Urethane Adhesive.
I used IPA a primer to clean and activate the surface. The plastic was already roughed up by the way it tore.
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You are welcome.
Hopefully it will hold. About the only thing I use super glue for is lacerations like Dermabond.
If you seal it in the first couple minutes and don't get in the wound it works very well. It can be healed almost completely in a 2-3 days, the glue just falls off then. Stitches in a tube.
Otherwise its been a disappointment for industrial applications.
If it doesn't hold redoing it will be a pain. The right adhesive the first time yields the best results. You'll need the somehow remove all of the residue from both surfaces. You need to minimize the gap for best results.
I got flak for posting links here to sellers; one numbskull thought I was a software salesperson.
PM me if you need the source as some vendor's prices are outrageous.
blackhawk said:
Hopefully it will hold. About the only thing I use super glue for is lacerations like Dermabond.
If you seal it in the first couple minutes and don't get in the wound it works very well. It can be healed almost completely in a 2-3 days, the glue just falls off then. Stitches in a tube.
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Amazing hahaha!!
blackhawk said:
I got flak for posting links here to sellers; one numbskull thought I was a software salesperson.
PM me if you need the source as some vendor's prices are outrageous.
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Really lol a senior member with over 4,755 messages has infiltrated XDA as a secret software sales person. Clever. Take my money sir!