My TF700 Screen (and digitzier) where shuttered (I left it on the car roof and drove, when I realized what I have done and drove back, I saw it on the road after a car drove over it).
Luckily, everything seems to works fine (connected it through HDMI and USB mouse) and aside some metal dents, it seems fully functional.
My question:
My digitizer flat cable has the marking "5184N FPC-1 REV: 3" while every LCD+digitizer combo out there has the marking "5184N FPC-1 REV: 2".
(Interestingly enough, when buying digitizer alone, there are planty of rev 3 ones).
Does it matter?
squigs said:
My TF700 Screen (and digitzier) where shuttered (I left it on the car roof and drove, when I realized what I have done and drove back, I saw it on the road after a car drove over it).
Luckily, everything seems to works fine (connected it through HDMI and USB mouse) and aside some metal dents, it seems fully functional.
My question:
My digitizer flat cable has the marking "5184N FPC-1 REV: 3" while every LCD+digitizer combo out there has the marking "5184N FPC-1 REV: 2".
(Interestingly enough, when buying digitizer alone, there are planty of rev 3 ones).
Does it matter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably not. similar issues with TF300 was solved by flashing the touch screen firmware.
check this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2091233&page=11
NOTE: DO NOT update to 02-3011-4820.ekt firmware!!!
squigs said:
My TF700 Screen (and digitzier) where shuttered (I left it on the car roof and drove, when I realized what I have done and drove back, I saw it on the road after a car drove over it).
Luckily, everything seems to works fine (connected it through HDMI and USB mouse) and aside some metal dents, it seems fully functional.
My question:
My digitizer flat cable has the marking "5184N FPC-1 REV: 3" while every LCD+digitizer combo out there has the marking "5184N FPC-1 REV: 2".
(Interestingly enough, when buying digitizer alone, there are planty of rev 3 ones).
Does it matter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Omg That is crazy!!! I glad it still works :angel: could you please post pictures of the damage (front and back)
This would be a good example thread for stress test and durability!
P.s. Dont feel bad i left a sony s tablet on the car roof once and a Nintendo DS lite on the bumper of a truck. :silly:
vadimbrk said:
Probably not. similar issues with TF300 was solved by flashing the touch screen firmware.
check this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2091233&page=11
NOTE: DO NOT update to 02-3011-4820.ekt firmware!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks mate, will give it a go then (after I thoroughly read the referenced link, there's seem to be a lot of nuances there).
What's wrong with 02-3011-4820?
ronniereiff said:
Omg That is crazy!!! I glad it still works :angel: could you please post pictures of the damage (front and back)
This would be a good example thread for stress test and durability!
P.s. Dont feel bad i left a sony s tablet on the car roof once and a Nintendo DS lite on the bumper of a truck. :silly:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, here are some pictures, I hope my s2 camera can communicate the subtle dents, if not, I can later take some shots with a real camera.
(Note that I opened the tablet, you'll notice at the upper right corner what seems like a seperation of the metal casing, it's not, I just placed the screen on top loosely to take the pictures).
I also posted the sleeve the TF700 was in during "the incident". The wheel marks off the case are already gone, but back then I tried to measure them against my car's wheel, and they where almost the same width, so I assessed (maybe wrongfully?) that it matches roughly a mid-size family car (I drive a Renault Fluence).
Solved - YAY
I thought I'd post an epilog...
I've ordered and received the replacement panel, set me back ~129 USD (including shipping)
(Ordered from Aliexpress.com).
Replacement require you to be super gentle, those little hinges on the connector will break super-easly, do not apply for to them, they should be lifted up to remove the cable and pressed down to secure it.
Since the metal casing got dents hear and there, the screen doesn't sit 100% (you'll notice it in the picture) but it's really not too bad.
(I could of course try and re-dent it so it fits more tightly in, maybe I will do so eventually).
All in all, it was a positive experience, everything works smooth, screen looks great, I personally can't tell any diff from the original screen in term of sharpness, colors, brightness etc.
Best regards.
squigs said:
I thought I'd post an epilog...
I've ordered and received the replacement panel, set me back ~129 USD (including shipping)
(Ordered from Aliexpress.com).
Replacement require you to be super gentle, those little hinges on the connector will break super-easly, do not apply for to them, they should be lifted up to remove the cable and pressed down to secure it.
Since the metal casing got dents hear and there, the screen doesn't sit 100% (you'll notice it in the picture) but it's really not too bad.
(I could of course try and re-dent it so it fits more tightly in, maybe I will do so eventually).
All in all, it was a positive experience, everything works smooth, screen looks great, I personally can't tell any diff from the original screen in term of sharpness, colors, brightness etc.
Best regards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the exact same problem. I took mine apart and see that mine too is marked ""5184N FPC-1 REV: 3". Which part did you actually purchase? I went on aliexpress and it looks like rev 3 is no longer available. Wondering if other revs would work.
i would like to if it is possible to use the 5184N FPC-1 REV: 2 when orginally it was a 5184N FPC-1 REV: 3. Will it work in the tablet
Did it work?
goodwinxda said:
I have the exact same problem. I took mine apart and see that mine too is marked ""5184N FPC-1 REV: 3". Which part did you actually purchase? I went on aliexpress and it looks like rev 3 is no longer available. Wondering if other revs would work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, Did anyone find out if a REV2 digitizer will work in place of the REV3?
Thanks!
-Dave
Have similar problem with revision number.
My TF700 has TCP10D47 rev V.02, but on ebay available only v0.1.
Some sellers wrote in item description that v.01 and v0.2 are compatible, some that not compatible.
Does anyone have information about revision compatibility ?
Anthony2002 said:
Have similar problem with revision number.
My TF700 has TCP10D47 rev V.02, but on ebay available only v0.1.
Some sellers wrote in item description that v.01 and v0.2 are compatible, some that not compatible.
Does anyone have information about revision compatibility ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I rolled those dice. The v.01 worked in place of my v.02 without issue. The worst was waiting for the part.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using Tapatalk 2
Going to try it!
Anthony2002 said:
Have similar problem with revision number.
My TF700 has TCP10D47 rev V.02, but on ebay available only v0.1.
Some sellers wrote in item description that v.01 and v0.2 are compatible, some that not compatible.
Does anyone have information about revision compatibility ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Guys,
I have a source for revision 3.0 but they want $129.00CAD each, I am going to try a Revision 2 on this tablet and I will post back my findings.
-Dave
compatibility
I can confirm that the "5184N FPC-1 REV: 2" works on tablets that have a broken "5184N FPC-1 REV: 3" digitizer. Just fixed mine and it touching perfectly.
davae93 said:
I can confirm that the "5184N FPC-1 REV: 2" works on tablets that have a broken "5184N FPC-1 REV: 3" digitizer. Just fixed mine and it touching perfectly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No need to flash anything, just remove the old, connect the new, power up and everything works?
My wife stepped on my TF700 (my fault, had it on the floor next to our bed, she came in and it was pitch dark...).
I have just cracked it open by the help from the tool set and instructions on ifixit.com, and noticed the digitizer is a Rev 3, but the ebay and aliexpress are Rev 2.
So if I understand you correctly, I should just go ahead and buy one of the 5184 fpc 1 Rev 2 digitizers and install it as soon as it arrives...
Thanks,
Christopher
grenness said:
No need to flash anything, just remove the old, connect the new, power up and everything works?
My wife stepped on my TF700 (my fault, had it on the floor next to our bed, she came in and it was pitch dark...).
I have just cracked it open by the help from the tool set and instructions on ifixit.com, and noticed the digitizer is a Rev 3, but the ebay and aliexpress are Rev 2.
So if I understand you correctly, I should just go ahead and buy one of the 5184 fpc 1 Rev 2 digitizers and install it as soon as it arrives...
Thanks,
Christopher
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes that is correct the 5184 focus rev 2 will work on your tablet. Based on what happened it seems your LCD is fine so you are in luck. There is a thin plastic frame between the LCD (led) and digitizer. Use a hair dryer to melt the glue so you can remove the LCD first then try to remove all the cracked glass off the frame. Its very time consuming so be patient. Remember to also buy some two sided sticky tape to seal the new digitzer back into place.
Good luck!!
aliexpress screen source?
shatz said:
For a couple days, programmer from Russia will make driver or something else, which will have invert X+/X- for this digitiser, but he say me, that this driver need to be included in ROM. And i will need to install this rom to my Asus tf201.
Who will can help include this driver to ROM???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
squigs said:
I thought I'd post an epilog...
I've ordered and received the replacement panel, set me back ~129 USD (including shipping)
(Ordered from Aliexpress.com).
Replacement require you to be super gentle, those little hinges on the connector will break super-easly, do not apply for to them, they should be lifted up to remove the cable and pressed down to secure it.
Since the metal casing got dents hear and there, the screen doesn't sit 100% (you'll notice it in the picture) but it's really not too bad.
(I could of course try and re-dent it so it fits more tightly in, maybe I will do so eventually).
All in all, it was a positive experience, everything works smooth, screen looks great, I personally can't tell any diff from the original screen in term of sharpness, colors, brightness etc.
Best regards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can you please share the aliexpress supplier for the touch screen glass? my 3 year old tossed my pad like a Frisbee and need to replace.
How about replacing a Rev 3 with an 01?
I purchased a Rev 2 to replace my Rev 3 a month ago, it worked perfect - until today when my 9 month old daughter pulled the tablet down from the table by the charge cable. It apparantly landed on the corner so the digitizer is once again cracked.
To my surprise the price of the Rev 2 digitizers seems to have gone up by 3X, at least on eBay.
Rev 1 (or .01, or 0.1) are still reasonably priced.
Can I go for a Rev 1 for my tablet who originally had a Rev 3 that was successfully replaced by a Rev 2?
Has anyone tried?
Thanks,
Christopher
Rev 3 available from eBay @ $110:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400623625242
Just ordered, seller has 2 left.
I just scanned aliexpress, no Rev 3 or Rev 2 (0.2) available (at least not for sane amounts of $$).
Sorry to dig up an old thread, but finding an answer to my problem I think this is the best bet.
I have a rev 2 that according to the ASUS repair centre needed to be replaced as I experienced sporadic touch registrations on the screen from time to time. On-line I could only find the rev 3 digitizer and after reading someone used a .2 to replace a .3 I figured it would work.
So after the long wait finally arrived and I went though the pain-staking process of removing the old LCD and .2 digitizer.
But ever since installing the .3 it detects very little to no input.
I plugged the old one back in and just left it hanging to the side and that seems to be working, but strange no go with the new one.
Someone mentioned a firmware a few posts back, is this something I need to look more into for compatibility with the rev .3?
Thanks!
Related
I dropped my touch pro and cracked the screen in a few places. I think it works normally except for the screen, as it receives calls fine...
A new phone isn't in my budget right now. Does anyone know of a good place (hopefully in DC, MD or VA) that will supply or install a replacement touch screen?
(btw, no recent threads came up when I searched.)
Ebay!
Just looked, $30 including postage for a screen & digitiser if you are able to do it yourself.
How hard is it to replace a screen if it has surface damage? Is there anywhere i could find a walkthrough or help?
Shame man, its a tragedy of what happened to your phone...
Luckily its not too bad, and you may just be able to fix it. You can download the service manual for the phone here: http://htcwinmobile.blogspot.com/2009/03/htc-raphaeltouch-pro-service-manual.html
Just a note though, make sure you DO USE tweezers or something to get the speaker wires out of the way before snapping the enclosure back into position... I had to reopen the phone again, after powering it, to rejoin one of the little wires thats like a tenth of a millimeter thick DO NOT IGNORE ANYTHING THEY TELL YOU IN THE MANUAL. Oh, and what works well for the "plastic removal tool" is a cut out piece of plastic ice cream container. AGIAN, do not ignore anything in there... You are voiding the warranty permanently when you do it yourself (which you unfortunately have to).
Anyways, good luck!
I drop my phone also, but the screen didn't actually cracked! but I do have is problems with the screen in other ways! Sometimes I get a black screen when I turn on the phone and sometimes not, but when the screen turns on, it flickers a lot and have lines thru it. What suprises me is that sometimes I get perfect images on the screen (Which makes me think that the screen it's not damaged).
Any suggestion would be apreciated. Thanks!
3 days and still no answer from anyone! I would like someone to throw me ligth on this issue. I'm waiting for this to know exactly what I need to buy, before I start assuming things.
Thanks in advance!
a.mendoza said:
3 days and still no answer from anyone! I would like someone to throw me ligth on this issue. I'm waiting for this to know exactly what I need to buy, before I start assuming things.
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like the LCD connector may have come unseated. You could open up the phone and make sure all connectors are firmly seated if you feel confident in your abilities.
maxh said:
Sounds like the LCD connector may have come unseated. You could open up the phone and make sure all connectors are firmly seated if you feel confident in your abilities.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the advice! I was thinking on that also and wanted to take my chances opening the phone (oh god!).
BTW, I saw the $30 LCD Screen+Digitizer combo on ebay that Beeble referred to, but I'm not sure if it fits on the fuze (my model). What have come to my mind it's to buy also the front camera of the phone (like a thread on the kaiser) to mod the cell, in case I need to buy the screen+digitizer. I've search all threads about this issue but nobody has done it because it was too expensive for the result; I believe with this price it's worth it right now!
solved
Try this steps:
http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc-touch-pro/
I used Diamod (!) LCD and Touch Pro digitiser. Works perfect.
Much more cheaper
If your screen works fine sometimes, you most likely don't need to replace it. there's probably just a loose connection somewhere. If you really want to replace it though, there's an ebay seller with a really good deal. $20 for the screen and digitizer already glued into a new front body piece: http://cgi.ebay.com/OEM-HTC-FUZE-LC...wItemQQptZPDA_Accessories?hash=item3ef8817bf6 That one's for the fuze, but I think the seller has other models too. I'd definitely get the LCD and digitizer together or else you might end up like I did on my first attempt: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=584050
-G-Rey--- said:
Try this steps:
http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc-touch-pro/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WOW! What a long way to get to the screen. Good luck for everyone who tries to dismount and mount the Raphael.
maxh said:
If your screen works fine sometimes, you most likely don't need to replace it. there's probably just a loose connection somewhere. If you really want to replace it though, there's an ebay seller with a really good deal. $20 for the screen and digitizer already glued into a new front body piece: http://cgi.ebay.com/OEM-HTC-FUZE-LC...wItemQQptZPDA_Accessories?hash=item3ef8817bf6 That one's for the fuze, but I think the seller has other models too. I'd definitely get the LCD and digitizer together or else you might end up like I did on my first attempt: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=584050
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the advise maxh,
I just wanted to let you know that a miracle just happened! my cellphone started to work just fine without even opening the phone! it has more than a week on this situation so I believe that it's exactly what you stated (the LCD conector became unseated or loose). Since it's still working, I have no need to open it! so I'll just wait until it becomes defective again and at that point just open it and tight up the LCD connector!
Anyway, I would love if somebody could make the mod that I was refereing to before (changing the screen of the fuze by the touch pro one) and see if it's possible to attach the front camera on the fuze.
Once again, thanks everybody for your opinions.
I got my new display+ digitizer on Ebay (65$) and replaced it, using the russian link mentioned above ( follow the exact procedure) , it took me 2 hours to do it, and after lot of patience it worked! My problem was the digitizer never worked fine, and after replaced it it worked like never before. If You are not familiar with repairs, it will be a mistake and waste of money to buy a display without digitizer. NOW, I have a small problem, my display has a NEW color, it's like color temp is WARM for this display, and COLD for my old display, AND COLOR level is lower, and the result is display without vivid colors, black like gray. Is there any way to change the DISPLAY color settings?
Hi
I recently dropped my desire onto concrete and, while it landed on the side and thankfully wasn't too damaged the side housing was slightly split and was sharp, so I ebay'd a replacement casing (only £2.99) and went about fitting it.
All went well except when I popped the micro-coax cable for the gps antenna (by sticking my fingernail under the jack, as I have done many times on other similar connectors) it simply flew off, leaving the cable flapping. For what it's worth, I can't believe (given the amount of force I used) that it can have been connected fully in the first place, but of course I can't prove that now...
I'm pretty sure I can't solder that back together, firstly I don't think I have the skill or the kit (I can solder but this looks pretty intricate) and secondly I'm unsure there's enough spare cable left to solder it.
So now I'm looking for another cable and I simply can't find anyone selling them; further I can't even find any detail on the type of connector so I can search for a generic cable that might fit.
Any info would be much appreciated!
Geoff
Hi
Last year i made the same mistake and I found the following:
http://www.htcrepairparts.com/antenna-cable-replacement-for-htc-desire-bravo-a8181-a8182-a8183-g7-p-3759.html?language=en
My device had other errors,so I didn't try it after all,bought a used Desire.
Anyway,I think this connector is called U.FL or IPX,commonly used in miniPCI(e) laptop wifi cards,routers,etc.It can't be soldered as it's not soldered originally.
Info.
I hope this info could help.
kj00 said:
Hi
Last year i made the same mistake and I found the following:
http://www.htcrepairparts.com/antenna-cable-replacement-for-htc-desire-bravo-a8181-a8182-a8183-g7-p-3759.html?language=en
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info. Unfortunately the item they ship is completely wrong - the cable's too long and the coax connectors are too large.
Think I'm going to have to resort to looking for a faulty phone on ebay.
Thanks anyway.
Geoff
Edit: for what it's worth it looks like the cable is W.FL, not U.FL - basically the same but smaller.
Marsbar said:
for what it's worth it looks like the cable is W.FL, not U.FL - basically the same but smaller.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ended up with a Hirose 10cm W.FL cable from RS - they don't stock the Hirose 70mm version which would have been better, the only people who seem prepared to sell that is mouser and they wanted about 20UKP including delivery.
The RS cable works but I had to bend it around stuff to use up the extra cable and the signal quality doesn't seem 100% at first impression (I'll do some side-by-side testing later with my wife's Desire - I did the repair this morning first thing before I left for work!) - I'm hoping it will be Good Enough though (I'm getting 6 or 7 sats, so it should be usable).
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/connector-rf/6196387/
There's a guy on ebay selling a 38mm W.FL cable and when I asked he said he could supply a 65mm version (should be about perfect) for $4.50 delivered, so for anyone still looking for one that's probably the best option (I'd already ordered the RS one by then though)
Contact him through
http://myworld.ebay.com/connekt/
He replied to me within the day, for what it's worth.
Disclaimer: no connection to connekt, mouser or indeed RS
Geoff
Marsbar said:
The RS cable works but I had to bend it around stuff to use up the extra cable and the signal quality doesn't seem 100% at first impression (I'll do some side-by-side testing later with my wife's Desire - I did the repair this morning first thing before I left for work!) - I'm hoping it will be Good Enough though (I'm getting 6 or 7 sats, so it should be usable).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For anyone considering it, the 10cm cable was perfectly adequate - I drove into work with the Desire navigating and it all went perfectly. Sat next to another Desire GPS Status shows very similar output, certainly nothing noticeably worse.
Topic.
1: Volume rocker did not work properly.
2: Many scratches on the backplate.
3: loose screen causing clicking noise.
Twice.
#1 - Wifi died after a week.
#2 - Screen was completely detached on one side out of the box.
Almost returned my third since it looked like the spring was missing from my SD card slot (that is, the card went in with no resistance and wouldn't push in to pop out)... but on a whim I decided to try it again right before I finished boxing it back up and it started working.
Its a great tablet, but Asus really needs to improve their quality control.
ZROW
Returned mine no times...
Thought about it-didn't do it.
0 cakes out of infinity
did not return my tablet, was flawless unit
Did the Infinity even come with plastic covers for the keyboard dock connections and the charging port like the TF201 model? The Infinity I saw, brand new right out of the box there were no plastic protective covers at all.
opentoe said:
Did the Infinity even come with plastic covers for the keyboard dock connections and the charging port like the TF201 model? The Infinity I saw, brand new right out of the box there were no plastic protective covers at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All three of mine had the cover on the dock connector itself, but not the two slots where it connected to the dock.
Edit: Sigh... Now I"m considering returning mine for the third time. When I got it, I noticed the screen could be pushed in a little along the bottom, like it wasnt completely attached but I figured it'd be ok since it was just one spot. Now its doing it along the top. My local best buy has them in-store now so I could exchange it no problems, but I've been holding off during my return period before unlocking and I dont want to push that back again...
I heard you can get banned for 90 days from Best Buy if you return too much... They scan your driver's license to keep a log of your returns. Not sure if it applies to defective tablets but they will probably assume that you're doing the damage one day. Anyways, time to exchange it.
Zero. Slight clicking sound. GPS is a bit slow. Nothing else.
4: Loose screen, clicking noise
5: Loose screen, clicking noise
6: Loose screen, clicking noise
7: 5 pieces of dust under screen.
This is outrageous.
Vibrating Motor didn't work at all.
This one is perfect. Everything works great. No creeking of the screen, no light bleed no problems what so ever. For now.
4 times....... 1- had dust under screen, 2- dead pixels, 3-dust under screen 4-dead pixels again, and the one I currently have seems like a keeper, I am used to it already as I had to do the same for the Prime and tf300 at least twice, but once I got a good one it held up good, Im very satisfied with the one I currently have. the infinity is clearly a beast!
8: dusts under screen
Finally got a good one on my ninth... everything is good except for the minor lightbleed but IDC I have found THE ONE!
ImYoungxD said:
8: dusts under screen
Finally got a good one on my ninth... everything is good except for the minor lightbleed but IDC I have found THE ONE!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I highly doubt you can go through 9 units in 2 days. Are you near a real store?
le rustle face
Keion said:
I highly doubt you can go through 9 units in 2 days. Are you near a real store?
le rustle face
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I live between two BB stores that are under 3 miles away.
I work in the city where two BB stores are less than 1 mile away so I can walk.
I also open the box in the store after exchanging and check for problems. If I do, I exchange it again. Started this after my fourth exchange cause I was getting annoyed driving back and forth.
wow. I feel lucky. I got mine first week available in North America and have NO issues. no dust, no light bleed. Been working great. No complaints, except with Chome being a big laggy.
Zero.
Original TF101 - 7 TIMES. Yup..dead pixels, blemishes on screen, dead WIFI, crappy QA until I got a good one.
TF201 - Twice. Dead pixels, dead GPS. End of romance.
TF700 - Returned once. Original one had cosmetic imperfections (large dark stain/spot on the side), loose screen and clicking on left side of screen. Picked up another one, PERFECTION. No dead pixels, no clicking, no cosmetic damage.
Zero. No problems in 3 weeks.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using xda app-developers app
wow
Really This is shocking to hear. I bought mine online from america, because I couldnt buy the cheaper speced version here. But mine is perfect thank god. I do actually have a very slight clicky sound in one of the corners. But I'll live with that. I don't really know what I could do if this craps out on me.
Asus really need to work on their QC...
No returns on my infinity yet, I have had mine for almost 30 days (have 60days for BB returns). Have a 2yr ADH from square trade just incase. Looks like this infinity is a keeper.
My primes on the other hand was just a QC problems after QC problems... very dissapointed with the prime.
I just got an MZ604 from my friend. He said the display stopped working and eventually sent it off to Motorola. They sent it right back claiming water damage in the following areas: 121009-002454 (cannot find out what that means). My friend does not remember any liquid getting on the Xoom. The unit was useless to him so he gave it to me and bought an iPad.
I brought it home and had it down to the frame and cleaned all contacts with CRC cleaner. I did notice a carmel colored liquid near the lcd connector, not in it, but on the wafer board to the bottom left of the CPU. There was also a small black mark on the lcd connector on the mobo. Obviously that indicates a short, but I did get the screen to come on, but the digitizer was not working.
Now the screen does not come on at all, but the unit powers up. The unit charges just fine and shows up on my PC when I plug in the USB cable. I was actually able to sbf to JB just off of the prompts in RSD. After getting an hdmi cable, I found the output to work properly and oddly the digitizer worked too. By watching the display on my monitor, I was able to tap the keys on the tablet screen until I got the wifi turned on and entered my wifi code. I was able to update from 4.1.1 to 4.1.2. Both cameras work as well as the speakers and the sd card slot.
My question is this, does it sound like the mobo, or the lcd that is the problem and is the hdmi tied into the lcd output of the mobo somehow? I cannot find a replacement mobo to save my life and I would gladly fork over $60 for an lcd, but I would be taking a shot in the dark. If I cant fix it, I will sell it as a whole unit for parts. The case/screen are in perfect shape.
Any input would be awesome.
I'm in for the unit if you sell it, i don't think it's just your lcd but the mobo
That's what I'm hoping its not. I troubleshoot until I am out of options. I think that point is near. I'll put up some pics.
Sent from my Rezound using Tapatalk 2.
I have a a spare lcd, trust me you can drop it in your bathtub without risk. All that could happen is corroded contacts
What is the going rate for "for parts" Xoom?
I am uploading pics right now.
The plastic is still on the screen since being returned from Motorola.
http://imgur.com/a/eVH4u#0
Sheesh, good question. A new at Amazon sells for about 300$ on ebay bids for a new are around half that, direct buy for 200. All parts are separately for sale new except the digitizer. What do you find reasonable?
PM sent.
Hi everyone.
So i tried to replace the cracked screen in a Moto G (I just replaced the display+digitizer+glass module). After the reassembly everything worked except for the digitizer (it worked before when i tested it). I tried to reconnect the digitizer connector (the tiny one which connects the digitizer controller to the display connector ) multiple times, but nothing worked. Has anyone faced a similar problem before?
Ening said:
Hi everyone.
So i tried to replace the cracked screen in a Moto G (I just replaced the display+digitizer+glass module). After the reassembly everything worked except for the digitizer (it worked before when i tested it). I tried to reconnect the digitizer connector (the tiny one which connects the digitizer controller to the display connector ) multiple times, but nothing worked. Has anyone faced a similar problem before?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I have exactly the same problem.
In my case, it's my second screen, so I've already eliminated the screen+digitizer and the cable connector like the origin of the problem.
Has anyone any idea?
Thanks!
PS: Ening, did you get to solve your issue?
much sad
agnobi said:
Hi, I have exactly the same problem.
In my case, it's my second screen, so I've already eliminated the screen+digitizer and the cable connector like the origin of the problem.
Has anyone any idea?
Thanks!
PS: Ening, did you get to solve your issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bad news. My digitizer cable is damaged. On both original phone and the donor. I was not careful enough: the closer inspection showed it. I am going to order another screen or a donor phone (like a used verizon one or something) and try it again.
So the thing is that the video on etradesupply shows it wrong. You have to unstick the tape covering the digitizer cable connector, then unsnap the clicky thing, and only after that should you unplug the screen master cable (the one that goes into your PCB). Otherwise, it is very easy to damage the touchscreen controller cable (the digitizer one).
I really hope you have a different problem and there is still hope for your phone :crying:
Ening said:
Bad news. My digitizer cable is damaged. On both original phone and the donor. I was not careful enough: the closer inspection showed it. I am going to order another screen or a donor phone (like a used verizon one or something) and try it again.
So the thing is that the video on etradesupply shows it wrong. You have to unstick the tape covering the digitizer cable connector, then unsnap the clicky thing, and only after that should you unplug the screen master cable (the one that goes into your PCB). Otherwise, it is very easy to damage the touchscreen controller cable (the digitizer one).
I really hope you have a different problem and there is still hope for your phone :crying:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Ening,
How do you check the veracity of the cable connector failure? I think I have the same problem than you, but I haven't a way to check it 100%, because I haven't anyone who can lend other screen to me, and the original screen it's now completely destroyed.
I suppose that I will have to send back the screen to the seller and ask for another.
Thanks anyway!
agnobi said:
Hi Ening,
How do you check the veracity of the cable connector failure? I think I have the same problem than you, but I haven't a way to check it 100%, because I haven't anyone who can lend other screen to me, and the original screen it's now completely destroyed.
I suppose that I will have to send back the screen to the seller and ask for another.
Thanks anyway!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, i gave the phones to a guy in a repair shop and he looked at it through a magnifying glass
agnobi, I have exactly the same problem, but tested several digitizers and same problem
see my post here : http://forum.xda-developers.com/moto-g/help/black-screen-backlight-ok-screen-t2803431
did you solve your problem ?
Me too
The new digitizer doesn't work and now the 'old' digitizer dosn't work anymore
Everyone has found an solution ?
kyle77680 said:
Me too
The new digitizer doesn't work and now the 'old' digitizer dosn't work anymore
Everyone has found an solution ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The flex cable part that connects the controller to the rest of the cable is very thin and easy to damage, you've to be very careful or you're gonna screw it (like the OP did).
ofcourse there is a slight possibility that it came defective, but you should have checked it right when it arrived. So far I haven't seen any incomparable ones, but who knows.....
liveroy said:
The flex cable part that connects the controller to the rest of the cable is very thin and easy to damage, you've to be very careful or you're gonna screw it (like the OP did).
ofcourse there is a slight possibility that it came defective, but you should have checked it right when it arrived. So far I haven't seen any incomparable ones, but who knows.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think there is something else.
On my side, the 3 digitizers (old one + 2 new) give me same result.
The I think the problem should be on the mainboard or a hardware/software blocking ... or maybe something we didn't re-assemble well
and little question : what is the role of this part (see my photo) ???
denseye said:
I think there is something else.
On my side, the 3 digitizers (old one + 2 new) give me same result.
The I think the problem should be on the mainboard or a hardware/software blocking ... or maybe something we didn't re-assemble well
and little question : what is the role of this part (see my photo) ???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably the last :>
That thin metal plate makes connections on the back of the PCB (its mounted right between the display and the PCB) and I think it connects to mass.I got no idea what it's role is (prolly its a fitting or some sort of heatspreader).I've assembled one phone without it and it worked just fine, but I've put it back afterwards, just for the sake of being complete
and your digitizer works fine ?
I think also that the issue comes from the connection PCB-patch or as you said software digitizer blocking.
So I 'll try to flash a retail rom to see it .... ...... The digitizer still not working
kyle77680 said:
and your digitizer works fine ?
I think also that the issue comes from the connection PCB-patch or as you said software digitizer blocking.
So I 'll try to flash a retail rom to see it .... ...... The digitizer still not working
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've replaced 9 digitizers on 9 different moto g's.None of em had any kind of these problems.This leads me to the conclusion that you've done something wrong.
The worst I had is 1 dead pixel on one of the new displays ( I'm using digitizer+display+frame assembly ).
liveroy said:
I've replaced 9 digitizers on 9 different moto g's.None of em had any kind of these problems.This leads me to the conclusion that you've done something wrong.
The worst I had is 1 dead pixel on one of the new displays ( I'm using digitizer+display+frame assembly ).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
very interesting your experience ...
the strange thing is that we are several persons to have the same problem and the same symptoms ...:silly:
I've unsnapped the connector as they said in the video of etradesupply...
Maybe I've forgotten something.... you have followed this video ?
Edit :My screens are working except for the digitizer.
kyle77680 said:
I've unsnapped the connector as they said in the video of etradesupply...
Maybe I've forgotten something.... you have followed this video ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've followed this same video...
I don't see what I could have done wrong
liveroy : you never expected that black screen problem ?
---------- Post added at 04:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:23 PM ----------
kyle77680 said:
and your digitizer works fine ?
I think also that the issue comes from the connection PCB-patch or as you said software digitizer blocking.
So I 'll try to flash a retail rom to see it .... ...... The digitizer still not working
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've also reflashed a stock ROM ... no change
so it's not software/firmware related ...
so it's hardware
Never, all worked the first time and afaik they are still working fine.Gotta mention that the ones I`ve used are chinise ones, but look and feel like the original, even the glass feels like gorilla glass 3, altough I don't believe that's the case :>
I have a huge scratch down my screen and the local mobile repairing guy quoted £55 to replace.. I thought this was a bit steep.. I expect him to use real gorrila glass 3 @ that price
Sent from my XT1032 using XDA Free mobile app
finally I've just fix my digitizer
It was 1 or 2 pin twisted on the right so there wasn't a contact between the PCB and the patch....
denseye I think your black screen can be fixed, you may see the pin on the left...." Bon courage " PM me if you have questions....
I've got now my earpiece which crackle but I thinks I'll not try to fix it....
Good night
You mean a pin on the pcb connector where thé LCD câble goes? (Français???)
A pin means a spindle which links the patch(LCD câble) to the PCB.There are many pins which compose thé connector.
(Yeah I'm french and i've sent you a MP.... "Dur dur le correcteur ortho ...")