Hi everyone.
So i tried to replace the cracked screen in a Moto G (I just replaced the display+digitizer+glass module). After the reassembly everything worked except for the digitizer (it worked before when i tested it). I tried to reconnect the digitizer connector (the tiny one which connects the digitizer controller to the display connector ) multiple times, but nothing worked. Has anyone faced a similar problem before?
Ening said:
Hi everyone.
So i tried to replace the cracked screen in a Moto G (I just replaced the display+digitizer+glass module). After the reassembly everything worked except for the digitizer (it worked before when i tested it). I tried to reconnect the digitizer connector (the tiny one which connects the digitizer controller to the display connector ) multiple times, but nothing worked. Has anyone faced a similar problem before?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I have exactly the same problem.
In my case, it's my second screen, so I've already eliminated the screen+digitizer and the cable connector like the origin of the problem.
Has anyone any idea?
Thanks!
PS: Ening, did you get to solve your issue?
much sad
agnobi said:
Hi, I have exactly the same problem.
In my case, it's my second screen, so I've already eliminated the screen+digitizer and the cable connector like the origin of the problem.
Has anyone any idea?
Thanks!
PS: Ening, did you get to solve your issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bad news. My digitizer cable is damaged. On both original phone and the donor. I was not careful enough: the closer inspection showed it. I am going to order another screen or a donor phone (like a used verizon one or something) and try it again.
So the thing is that the video on etradesupply shows it wrong. You have to unstick the tape covering the digitizer cable connector, then unsnap the clicky thing, and only after that should you unplug the screen master cable (the one that goes into your PCB). Otherwise, it is very easy to damage the touchscreen controller cable (the digitizer one).
I really hope you have a different problem and there is still hope for your phone :crying:
Ening said:
Bad news. My digitizer cable is damaged. On both original phone and the donor. I was not careful enough: the closer inspection showed it. I am going to order another screen or a donor phone (like a used verizon one or something) and try it again.
So the thing is that the video on etradesupply shows it wrong. You have to unstick the tape covering the digitizer cable connector, then unsnap the clicky thing, and only after that should you unplug the screen master cable (the one that goes into your PCB). Otherwise, it is very easy to damage the touchscreen controller cable (the digitizer one).
I really hope you have a different problem and there is still hope for your phone :crying:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Ening,
How do you check the veracity of the cable connector failure? I think I have the same problem than you, but I haven't a way to check it 100%, because I haven't anyone who can lend other screen to me, and the original screen it's now completely destroyed.
I suppose that I will have to send back the screen to the seller and ask for another.
Thanks anyway!
agnobi said:
Hi Ening,
How do you check the veracity of the cable connector failure? I think I have the same problem than you, but I haven't a way to check it 100%, because I haven't anyone who can lend other screen to me, and the original screen it's now completely destroyed.
I suppose that I will have to send back the screen to the seller and ask for another.
Thanks anyway!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, i gave the phones to a guy in a repair shop and he looked at it through a magnifying glass
agnobi, I have exactly the same problem, but tested several digitizers and same problem
see my post here : http://forum.xda-developers.com/moto-g/help/black-screen-backlight-ok-screen-t2803431
did you solve your problem ?
Me too
The new digitizer doesn't work and now the 'old' digitizer dosn't work anymore
Everyone has found an solution ?
kyle77680 said:
Me too
The new digitizer doesn't work and now the 'old' digitizer dosn't work anymore
Everyone has found an solution ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The flex cable part that connects the controller to the rest of the cable is very thin and easy to damage, you've to be very careful or you're gonna screw it (like the OP did).
ofcourse there is a slight possibility that it came defective, but you should have checked it right when it arrived. So far I haven't seen any incomparable ones, but who knows.....
liveroy said:
The flex cable part that connects the controller to the rest of the cable is very thin and easy to damage, you've to be very careful or you're gonna screw it (like the OP did).
ofcourse there is a slight possibility that it came defective, but you should have checked it right when it arrived. So far I haven't seen any incomparable ones, but who knows.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think there is something else.
On my side, the 3 digitizers (old one + 2 new) give me same result.
The I think the problem should be on the mainboard or a hardware/software blocking ... or maybe something we didn't re-assemble well
and little question : what is the role of this part (see my photo) ???
denseye said:
I think there is something else.
On my side, the 3 digitizers (old one + 2 new) give me same result.
The I think the problem should be on the mainboard or a hardware/software blocking ... or maybe something we didn't re-assemble well
and little question : what is the role of this part (see my photo) ???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably the last :>
That thin metal plate makes connections on the back of the PCB (its mounted right between the display and the PCB) and I think it connects to mass.I got no idea what it's role is (prolly its a fitting or some sort of heatspreader).I've assembled one phone without it and it worked just fine, but I've put it back afterwards, just for the sake of being complete
and your digitizer works fine ?
I think also that the issue comes from the connection PCB-patch or as you said software digitizer blocking.
So I 'll try to flash a retail rom to see it .... ...... The digitizer still not working
kyle77680 said:
and your digitizer works fine ?
I think also that the issue comes from the connection PCB-patch or as you said software digitizer blocking.
So I 'll try to flash a retail rom to see it .... ...... The digitizer still not working
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've replaced 9 digitizers on 9 different moto g's.None of em had any kind of these problems.This leads me to the conclusion that you've done something wrong.
The worst I had is 1 dead pixel on one of the new displays ( I'm using digitizer+display+frame assembly ).
liveroy said:
I've replaced 9 digitizers on 9 different moto g's.None of em had any kind of these problems.This leads me to the conclusion that you've done something wrong.
The worst I had is 1 dead pixel on one of the new displays ( I'm using digitizer+display+frame assembly ).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
very interesting your experience ...
the strange thing is that we are several persons to have the same problem and the same symptoms ...:silly:
I've unsnapped the connector as they said in the video of etradesupply...
Maybe I've forgotten something.... you have followed this video ?
Edit :My screens are working except for the digitizer.
kyle77680 said:
I've unsnapped the connector as they said in the video of etradesupply...
Maybe I've forgotten something.... you have followed this video ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've followed this same video...
I don't see what I could have done wrong
liveroy : you never expected that black screen problem ?
---------- Post added at 04:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:23 PM ----------
kyle77680 said:
and your digitizer works fine ?
I think also that the issue comes from the connection PCB-patch or as you said software digitizer blocking.
So I 'll try to flash a retail rom to see it .... ...... The digitizer still not working
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've also reflashed a stock ROM ... no change
so it's not software/firmware related ...
so it's hardware
Never, all worked the first time and afaik they are still working fine.Gotta mention that the ones I`ve used are chinise ones, but look and feel like the original, even the glass feels like gorilla glass 3, altough I don't believe that's the case :>
I have a huge scratch down my screen and the local mobile repairing guy quoted £55 to replace.. I thought this was a bit steep.. I expect him to use real gorrila glass 3 @ that price
Sent from my XT1032 using XDA Free mobile app
finally I've just fix my digitizer
It was 1 or 2 pin twisted on the right so there wasn't a contact between the PCB and the patch....
denseye I think your black screen can be fixed, you may see the pin on the left...." Bon courage " PM me if you have questions....
I've got now my earpiece which crackle but I thinks I'll not try to fix it....
Good night
You mean a pin on the pcb connector where thé LCD câble goes? (Français???)
A pin means a spindle which links the patch(LCD câble) to the PCB.There are many pins which compose thé connector.
(Yeah I'm french and i've sent you a MP.... "Dur dur le correcteur ortho ...")
Related
I dropped my touch pro and cracked the screen in a few places. I think it works normally except for the screen, as it receives calls fine...
A new phone isn't in my budget right now. Does anyone know of a good place (hopefully in DC, MD or VA) that will supply or install a replacement touch screen?
(btw, no recent threads came up when I searched.)
Ebay!
Just looked, $30 including postage for a screen & digitiser if you are able to do it yourself.
How hard is it to replace a screen if it has surface damage? Is there anywhere i could find a walkthrough or help?
Shame man, its a tragedy of what happened to your phone...
Luckily its not too bad, and you may just be able to fix it. You can download the service manual for the phone here: http://htcwinmobile.blogspot.com/2009/03/htc-raphaeltouch-pro-service-manual.html
Just a note though, make sure you DO USE tweezers or something to get the speaker wires out of the way before snapping the enclosure back into position... I had to reopen the phone again, after powering it, to rejoin one of the little wires thats like a tenth of a millimeter thick DO NOT IGNORE ANYTHING THEY TELL YOU IN THE MANUAL. Oh, and what works well for the "plastic removal tool" is a cut out piece of plastic ice cream container. AGIAN, do not ignore anything in there... You are voiding the warranty permanently when you do it yourself (which you unfortunately have to).
Anyways, good luck!
I drop my phone also, but the screen didn't actually cracked! but I do have is problems with the screen in other ways! Sometimes I get a black screen when I turn on the phone and sometimes not, but when the screen turns on, it flickers a lot and have lines thru it. What suprises me is that sometimes I get perfect images on the screen (Which makes me think that the screen it's not damaged).
Any suggestion would be apreciated. Thanks!
3 days and still no answer from anyone! I would like someone to throw me ligth on this issue. I'm waiting for this to know exactly what I need to buy, before I start assuming things.
Thanks in advance!
a.mendoza said:
3 days and still no answer from anyone! I would like someone to throw me ligth on this issue. I'm waiting for this to know exactly what I need to buy, before I start assuming things.
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like the LCD connector may have come unseated. You could open up the phone and make sure all connectors are firmly seated if you feel confident in your abilities.
maxh said:
Sounds like the LCD connector may have come unseated. You could open up the phone and make sure all connectors are firmly seated if you feel confident in your abilities.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the advice! I was thinking on that also and wanted to take my chances opening the phone (oh god!).
BTW, I saw the $30 LCD Screen+Digitizer combo on ebay that Beeble referred to, but I'm not sure if it fits on the fuze (my model). What have come to my mind it's to buy also the front camera of the phone (like a thread on the kaiser) to mod the cell, in case I need to buy the screen+digitizer. I've search all threads about this issue but nobody has done it because it was too expensive for the result; I believe with this price it's worth it right now!
solved
Try this steps:
http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc-touch-pro/
I used Diamod (!) LCD and Touch Pro digitiser. Works perfect.
Much more cheaper
If your screen works fine sometimes, you most likely don't need to replace it. there's probably just a loose connection somewhere. If you really want to replace it though, there's an ebay seller with a really good deal. $20 for the screen and digitizer already glued into a new front body piece: http://cgi.ebay.com/OEM-HTC-FUZE-LC...wItemQQptZPDA_Accessories?hash=item3ef8817bf6 That one's for the fuze, but I think the seller has other models too. I'd definitely get the LCD and digitizer together or else you might end up like I did on my first attempt: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=584050
-G-Rey--- said:
Try this steps:
http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc-touch-pro/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WOW! What a long way to get to the screen. Good luck for everyone who tries to dismount and mount the Raphael.
maxh said:
If your screen works fine sometimes, you most likely don't need to replace it. there's probably just a loose connection somewhere. If you really want to replace it though, there's an ebay seller with a really good deal. $20 for the screen and digitizer already glued into a new front body piece: http://cgi.ebay.com/OEM-HTC-FUZE-LC...wItemQQptZPDA_Accessories?hash=item3ef8817bf6 That one's for the fuze, but I think the seller has other models too. I'd definitely get the LCD and digitizer together or else you might end up like I did on my first attempt: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=584050
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the advise maxh,
I just wanted to let you know that a miracle just happened! my cellphone started to work just fine without even opening the phone! it has more than a week on this situation so I believe that it's exactly what you stated (the LCD conector became unseated or loose). Since it's still working, I have no need to open it! so I'll just wait until it becomes defective again and at that point just open it and tight up the LCD connector!
Anyway, I would love if somebody could make the mod that I was refereing to before (changing the screen of the fuze by the touch pro one) and see if it's possible to attach the front camera on the fuze.
Once again, thanks everybody for your opinions.
I got my new display+ digitizer on Ebay (65$) and replaced it, using the russian link mentioned above ( follow the exact procedure) , it took me 2 hours to do it, and after lot of patience it worked! My problem was the digitizer never worked fine, and after replaced it it worked like never before. If You are not familiar with repairs, it will be a mistake and waste of money to buy a display without digitizer. NOW, I have a small problem, my display has a NEW color, it's like color temp is WARM for this display, and COLD for my old display, AND COLOR level is lower, and the result is display without vivid colors, black like gray. Is there any way to change the DISPLAY color settings?
A coworker I started working with a few months ago told me about the much-better Sensation he had before his MyTouch 3G. It seems that he still had it, but stopped using it "because the screen cracked." I correctly surmised that it was a simple and cheap to replace touch screen digitizer and described to him that it was "just the glass cover" and that it was "cheap to replace." I have done many such repairs on other phones and gadgets.
He then told me that he had continued to use it until the LCD went blank. There is no reason to think that the LCD inside suddenly cracked, but I can only assume that it also sustained some kind of damage and now also requires replacement. Knowing that the LCD isn't cracked, what are the chances that a replacement LCD + digitizer will restore the phone? I'm concerned because we've already purchased a kit for $65.
Nobody can tell you that off the internet. If we do, that would be pure guess, just as accurate as you would have guessed.
sawo said:
Nobody can tell you that off the internet. If we do, that would be pure guess, just as accurate as you would have guessed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, someone could have had the exact same problem and already tried it. I ran into people with the same problem already. I'm just looking for more because some, no doubt, have tried it and others may have an alternate explanation. Reasonable.
there is a good chance that will fix the problem. but since the LCD was working for a while until it blank out, it is possible the problem might be with the circuit board. only way to know is to try it out.
CZroe said:
Well, someone could have had the exact same problem and already tried it. I ran into people with the same problem already. I'm just looking for more because some, no doubt, have tried it and others may have an alternate explanation. Reasonable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The LCD could go blank for several reasons. Faulty LCD, loose cable, faulty board etc. etc. Even if someone had the same problem, the reason for it could be completely different, thefore this wont help you at all except for giving you hope. If this is what you need, then i would say "yes, the change of lcd & digitizer should fix the problem" but you never can be sure unless you try When you start the phone, do you hear the startup sound? This could at least indicate that the phone isnt completely faulty.
brabusamg55 said:
there is a good chance that will fix the problem. but since the LCD was working for a while until it blank out, it is possible the problem might be with the circuit board. only way to know is to try it out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The plus side is that you can't make it worse. So you've got nothing to lose by trying to repair it, other than the few bucks for the parts.
Well, I took it apart to re-seat all the cables and it's still blank. Reading online, I see that a lot of dropped Sensations/Pyramids develop a loose/broken SMT capacitor component near the headphone jack, but I'm not registered on any of the forums I see it discussed on and I can't see the pics. They describe a slightly different problem anyway (screen goes blank after standby). I needed sleep, so I put it all back together and I'll check that out when the parts get here. My hunch is that the LCD panel is fine and that I'll have an extra, assuming the capacitor problem is fixable. I've done some delicate soldering work before but I can't really say that I'm good at it! I didn't see any loose SMT components rattling around so I hope it didn't fall completely out somewhere.
Skipjacks said:
The plus side is that you can't make it worse. So you've got nothing to lose by trying to repair it, other than the few bucks for the parts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks but it's almost $70 for the parts.
Works great! Well, it had the touchscreen sensitivity issue pretty badly but the T-Mobile OTA update fixed that. Transferring all the adhesive bits from one screen to another was down-right frustrating, but I pulled it off and I only see a single spec of dust inside. The dude will be thrilled. I broke the earhook on my Looxcie so I did not make a video but it was full of me tearing and ripping the things anyway and not a good example of how it should be done!
FWIW, there was no way to remove the old screen without denting up the backing plate and prying the heck out of it to free it from multiple adhesives and glues, so I would not have had two good LCDs after testing the replacement even if there was nothing wrong with the original. Good thing it was the LCD at fault! I didn't have to drill anything like the glass replacement video I watched instructed me to do. They didn't realize that the LCD removal allows the flex PCB through just fine. I forgot to thread it back through before seating the replacement LCD in the adhesives and tape left-overs but it flexed enough to allow it through without removing, which was quite a relief after seeing how the original fared after being removed.
Hey everyone,
I recently bought my HOX at my local AT&T store about a month ago and managed to drop within the first 2 weeks I had it, and break both the glass and LCD. I went on ebay and bought both the LCD and glass together and installed it on my phone with no luck. Screen is totally black with no response. Everthing else works flawlessly, vibrator, capacitive buttons, and speaker. The aftermarket LCD screen's cable was straight so I had to make a fold in it like the original cable was. I worry that that might be what the problem is, though I highly doubt it. I would appreciate it greatly if someone could give me some advice on what I should do at this point. Return the LCD and glass or try something else. Thanks
hatchman16 said:
Hey everyone,
I recently bought my HOX at my local AT&T store about a month ago and managed to drop within the first 2 weeks I had it, and break both the glass and LCD. I went on ebay and bought both the LCD and glass together and installed it on my phone with no luck. Screen is totally black with no response. Everthing else works flawlessly, vibrator, capacitive buttons, and speaker. The aftermarket LCD screen's cable was straight so I had to make a fold in it like the original cable was. I worry that that might be what the problem is, though I highly doubt it. I would appreciate it greatly if someone could give me some advice on what I should do at this point. Return the LCD and glass or try something else. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Welcome, search the forum. Long story short, call HTC and have them fix it for ~$220
If you signed a contract when you bought the phone and are still within 30 days, I would just have AT&T add insurance to your line and make a claim for it.
SBA1226 said:
If you signed a contract when you bought the phone and are still within 30 days, I would just have AT&T add insurance to your line and make a claim for it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
still gonna cost 200$ to replace with AT&T with insurance. but maybe the person there will be nice who knows.
SBA1226 said:
If you signed a contract when you bought the phone and are still within 30 days, I would just have AT&T add insurance to your line and make a claim for it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the quick responses, looks like im gonna have to bite the bullet and pay the $220 bucks. AT&T has terrible customer service and they had no interest in helping me.
still not fixed
Hello again,
I recently bought another replacement LCD and digitizer. Installed it in the phone still with no luck. Everything except the screen works perfectly. All the connectors and motherboard look perfect. I have called HTC and there have some of the worst tech support that I have ever experienced. Please respond...im running out of ideas.
hatchman16 said:
Hello again,
I recently bought another replacement LCD and digitizer. Installed it in the phone still with no luck. Everything except the screen works perfectly. All the connectors and motherboard look perfect. I have called HTC and there have some of the worst tech support that I have ever experienced. Please respond...im running out of ideas.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I`ve got the same problem. Have you found a solution?
we're you esd grounded while installing it?
Sent from my HTC One XL using xda premium
ptesmoke said:
we're you esd grounded while installing it?
Sent from my HTC One XL using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no :-/
Try both the old one and the new one without placing it into the housing...
The problem you will face most is with the LCD strip which has to be inserted fully in the slot..
Which is very difficult to do so and needs lots of time on it...
see some Replacement videos on Youtube. It do show you step by step guide on replacing the LCD..
Just place the battery and all the connectors and try powering it on b4 inserting it into the housing..
ptesmoke said:
we're you esd grounded while installing it?
Sent from my HTC One XL using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
XtR3m3R said:
no :-/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ya, that slight pinch you felt during the install......that was your $500's last words
bondarun said:
Try both the old one and the new one without placing it into the housing...
The problem you will face most is with the LCD strip which has to be inserted fully in the slot..
Which is very difficult to do so and needs lots of time on it...
see some Replacement videos on Youtube. It do show you step by step guide on replacing the LCD..
Just place the battery and all the connectors and try powering it on b4 inserting it into the housing..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The old LCD isn`t working anymore. The LCD Connection is fully inserted. First time i started the device with the new LCD, everything was working well. A few seconds later i got the blackscreen.
XtR3m3R said:
The old LCD isn`t working anymore. The LCD Connection is fully inserted. First time i started the device with the new LCD, everything was working well. A few seconds later i got the blackscreen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May be its an Hardware issue...
Try plugging in the display alone not the digitizer cable..
Give a try..
18th.abn said:
Ya, that slight pinch you felt during the install......that was your $500's last words
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did he pretty much fry the whole thing?
No, he's getting it to boot I believe just no screen..
Try plugging into the pc and make sure it's being recognized.
Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk 2
18th.abn said:
No, he's getting it to boot I believe just no screen..
Try plugging into the pc and make sure it's being recognized.
Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i think the new LCD is broken. With a flashlight i can see Android on the screen
So i think the backlight is broken. So i will repair the phone with a new Display and Digitizer Unit. Right?
I tried the same thing, but mine was just the glass. Forget about trying to separate LCD from glass, really you are not that skilled (any of you!). anyway, It was about 45 days after receiving my HOX and I called ATT and just told them what happened and that my phone was in 1000 pieces, said I now have a contract and no phone (though I was much more miserable and depressed sounding at the time). She said "no problem, I will just toss out this old contract and we will start from scratch" It cost me another $99 but they sent me a brand new phone. I was shocked. First time a carrier ever made me smile (other than running LTE Speed Tests)
XtR3m3R said:
no :-/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i don't know i can't speak
i got a tf300 from ebay , with a broken digitizer opened it up to see the model (of the digitizer) and left it with out a one for the meanwhile
i also ordered a keyboard and a digitizer ( 5158N) , the key board got to me first .
i connected it so ill be able to use the tablet
but the screen seems as some one is touching it all over all the time !
i dont know what to do ,
it open apps on its own , move screens and so on ...
any ideas ?
natifr said:
i got a tf300 from ebay , with a broken digitizer opened it up to see the model (of the digitizer) and left it with out a one for the meanwhile
i also ordered a keyboard and a digitizer ( 5158N) , the key board got to me first .
i connected it so ill be able to use the tablet
but the screen seems as some one is touching it all over all the time !
i dont know what to do ,
it open apps on its own , move screens and so on ...
any ideas ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hehe, that did happen to some of us. In my case, I first flashed the 4820 TS firmware. If that doesn't stop the mad behaviour, then carefully remove the TS ribbons from the board, and tape them on top of the connectors, making sure they don't touch any conducting metal parts.
graphdarnell said:
Hehe, that did happen to some of us. In my case, I first flashed the 4820 TS firmware. If that doesn't stop the mad behaviour, then carefully remove the TS ribbons from the board, and tape them on top of the connectors, making sure they don't touch any conducting metal parts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so from what you say i need to root it first , right ?
so i open it up and toke out the part thats connect the main board and the TS ( i dont have the TS anyway)
and now im using it with the keyboard and its find !!!
so now i want to know what thus it mean ?
that part is broken ?
it dosnt work w/o a tuch screen connected ?
natifr said:
so i open it up and toke out the part thats connect the main board and the TS ( i dont have the TS anyway)
and now im using it with the keyboard and its find !!!
so now i want to know what thus it mean ?
that part is broken ?
it dosnt work w/o a tuch screen connected ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nothing is broken apart from the TS. But when you have it connected, it acts crazy. Replace it and it should be fine.
natifr said:
so i open it up and toke out the part thats connect the main board and the TS ( i dont have the TS anyway)
and now im using it with the keyboard and its find !!!
so now i want to know what thus it mean ?
that part is broken ?
it dosnt work w/o a tuch screen connected ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You do know you can use a G01 which is much much cheaper right? Mine was a 5158N originally and I got my replacement G01 for 42 USD.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using xda app-developers app
I get the phantom touches constantly, so it's just bad ribbons and taping them will definitely stop it?
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
MrKite4 said:
I get the phantom touches constantly, so it's just bad ribbons and taping them will definitely stop it?
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure what the question is, but taping the ribbons to the connectors is just a stopgap measure when you for some reason must keep the broken digitizer on (as in waiting for the replacement to come in the mail). It might work or not (does in my case, where if ghost touches hit, all I need do is reboot). So I wouldn't say "definitely." What's your situation?
graphdarnell said:
Not sure what the question is, but taping the ribbons to the connectors is just a stopgap measure when you for some reason must keep the broken digitizer on (as in waiting for the replacement to come in the mail). It might work or not (does in my case, where if ghost touches hit, all I need do is reboot). So I wouldn't say "definitely." What's your situation?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sometimes the screen goes crazy and starts zooming in and touching areas when I'm not touching the screen, when I put it back in to sleep and then unlock it again its fine, and then also somewhere in the upper right portion of the screen it's send like out didn't react to the touch so well especially when I'm scrolling and hit that part of the screen it'll stop then either act as if I did a long press or act as if I clicked on the browser url.
Sent from my LG-E980 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
MrKite4 said:
sometimes the screen goes crazy and starts zooming in and touching areas when I'm not touching the screen, when I put it back in to sleep and then unlock it again its fine, and then also somewhere in the upper right portion of the screen it's send like out didn't react to the touch so well especially when I'm scrolling and hit that part of the screen it'll stop then either act as if I did a long press or act as if I clicked on the browser url.
Sent from my LG-E980 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
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If you have an undamaged digitizer that acts on its own, you're not alone. Most of the time, the remedy is in reflashing the TS frmware. You need to know what type it is so you can select the correct firmware though. Pop the back cover open and look. Check this thread for troubleshooting tips.
graphdarnell said:
If you have an undamaged digitizer that acts on its own, you're not alone. Most of the time, the remedy is in reflashing the TS frmware. You need to know what type it is so you can select the correct firmware though. Pop the back cover open and look. Check this thread for troubleshooting tips.
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Click to collapse
Would be nice if someone has any NEW light to this matter "Crazy screen"
Me too have this problem and been reading everything in here to remedy that problem.
that 50 page long thread has gone to more questions than answers.
it seems that replacing the TS and the board and the 4820 firmware still gives the "Crazy screen"
I've seen even a brand new TF300T without any visible defect that has the same fault.
has anybody found other firmware to TF300T than 4820.. maybe it isnt 100% compatible with all cheep china TS?
unob said:
Would be nice if someone has any NEW light to this matter "Crazy screen"
Me too have this problem and been reading everything in here to remedy that problem.
that 50 page long thread has gone to more questions than answers.
it seems that replacing the TS and the board and the 4820 firmware still gives the "Crazy screen"
I've seen even a brand new TF300T without any visible defect that has the same fault.
has anybody found other firmware to TF300T than 4820.. maybe it isnt 100% compatible with all cheep china TS?
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Click to collapse
I ordered a cheap g01 for 43 bucks. I then flashed 4820 firmware. No problem at all and its more responsive than the original 5158n.
The boards do also go bad apparently. You can pick one up for 15 usd on ebay. Regardless what version the board came from, you will have to flash.
I recommend every one with issues go with the g01 as its firmware is readily available and actually has a proven track record of working. Its also the cheapest version available ( mine was also an original Asus part for that price )
Just make sure you have root access first.
Sent from my SGH-T889 using xda app-developers app
pyraxiate said:
I ordered a cheap g01 for 43 bucks. I then flashed 4820 firmware. No problem at all and its more responsive than the original 5158n.
The boards do also go bad apparently. You can pick one up for 15 usd on ebay. Regardless what version the board came from, you will have to flash.
I recommend every one with issues go with the g01 as its firmware is readily available and actually has a proven track record of working. Its also the cheapest version available ( mine was also an original Asus part for that price )
Just make sure you have root access first.
Sent from my SGH-T889 using xda app-developers app
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Glad to hear happy stories.. too little of them here
i replaced mine TS g01 without changing firmware (i had 4822).
i ran it about 9-10 hours straight and no glitch at all before it began to ghosting.
and then flashed the TS firmware to 4820 with no difference (still ghosting)
i think people have triggered the same problem when replace their TS. (it wasn´t "the cap" problem) and will not necessarily engage immediately after the replacement.
it's really a ghost story.
unob said:
Glad to hear happy stories.. too little of them here
i replaced mine TS g01 without changing firmware (i had 4822).
i ran it about 9-10 hours straight and no glitch at all before it began to ghosting.
and then flashed the TS firmware to 4820 with no difference (still ghosting)
i think people have triggered the same problem when replace their TS. (it wasn´t "the cap" problem) and will not necessarily engage immediately after the replacement.
it's really a ghost story.
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Click to collapse
In that case its either a bad board, or a bad digitizer. There were reports of new screens that looked intact actually having micro fractures that dont act up until the unit had been on and running ( heating up ). I'd try the TS / Micro SD daughterboard first though as its cheaper and easy to access. Worst case scenario is you get a spare or see if someone here wants to pick it up from you. For $15 its worth a shot.
Heres the exact OEM G01 I ordered ( It does have the Asus Logo )
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360697697608?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
I cant find any cheap boards on ebay right now but they are frequently listed in the 15-20$ range. You will just have to keep your eyes peeled I guess.
pyraxiate said:
In that case its either a bad board, or a bad digitizer. There were reports of new screens that looked intact actually having micro fractures that dont act up until the unit had been on and running ( heating up ). I'd try the TS / Micro SD daughterboard first though as its cheaper and easy to access. Worst case scenario is you get a spare or see if someone here wants to pick it up from you. For $15 its worth a shot.
Heres the exact OEM G01 I ordered ( It does have the Asus Logo )
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360697697608?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
I cant find any cheap boards on ebay right now but they are frequently listed in the 15-20$ range. You will just have to keep your eyes peeled I guess.
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Thanx for your help. i got lucky coz my seller agrees to send me a new TS and it has been on the road for 2 weeks now...
meanwhile i have found too many people having the same problem so my faith is failing
i will report back.
unob said:
Thanx for your help. i got lucky coz my seller agrees to send me a new TS and it has been on the road for 2 weeks now...
meanwhile i have found too many people having the same problem so my faith is failing
i will report back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like a plan Hopefully it's just a bad digitizer then.
Sent from my SGH-T889 using xda app-developers app
I was on CM10.2, So I change to asus stock rom and than I lost my root.
How do I root my TF300T without touch screen?
I am on 10.6.1.27.1 with TWRP 2.5.0.0 and I have a docking station.
mwvarela said:
I was on CM10.2, So I change to asus stock rom and than I lost my root.
How do I root my TF300T without touch screen?
I am on 10.6.1.27.1 with TWRP 2.5.0.0 and I have a docking station.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i did it with cheap "OTG Host Kit Adapter tf300t" from ebay and usb mouse.. easy as with working TS.
here is the report.
Now i have replaced the new TS. and the Ghost Story is still there?
But it is not random anymore. Now it is only one dot ghosting all the time? (top right corner). I assembled it twice but no avail.
by the way, they sent me "White label" version instead of G01 and i think it worked better (less ghosting).
interesting to hear opinions?
pyraxiate said:
Sounds like a plan Hopefully it's just a bad digitizer then.
Sent from my SGH-T889 using xda app-developers app
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sorry to reply like this.. but i thought maybe you respond if it is to your own response.
hope someone has some light to my discovery.??
only one dot left now .. any suggestions ??
Recently, I purchased a Nexus 5 from a friend. The screen was completely shattered and nothing would appear on the display, but my computer was able to recognize the device. This morning I replaced the screen with a new one, however, there is still nothing appearing on the display even though the computer recognizes it and there is still life left inside of it.
Is there anything I am missing? I rechecked that everything is plugged in correctly several times and still nothing. I was thinking of replacing the flex cable, but I am low on funds so I don't want to waste money if its not going to work.
Attached, are photo's of the device.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
did you replace just the screen or the whole Assembly with the lcd and digitzer?
Boblank said:
did you replace just the screen or the whole Assembly with the lcd and digitzer?
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Yes, the entire assembly has been replaced which includes the LCD and digitizer.
Once again, I'm thinking its the flex cable as bad flex cables I've had with other phones have affected the functionality of the device.
Bump
LazyNDaCrazyDayz said:
Bump
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Why? Your question was answered.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using XDA Free mobile app
MrObvious said:
Why? Your question was answered.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using XDA Free mobile app
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Click to collapse
It was not.
In a nutshell, my original question was basically 'could there be another problem with the Nexus 5 that I am unaware of?' which was not answered.
The second poster simply asked me if I replaced the LCD and digitizer assembly in its entirety.
The third poster is me posting my suspicious about which piece of hardware is causing the trouble.
LazyNDaCrazyDayz said:
It was not.
In a nutshell, my original question was basically 'could there be another problem with the Nexus 5 that I am unaware of?' which was not answered.
The second poster simply asked me if I replaced the LCD and digitizer assembly in its entirety.
The third poster is me posting my suspicious about which piece of hardware is causing the trouble.
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Click to collapse
Oh sorry you said flex cable. I was on my app. My apologies. Honestly it could be the flex cable. I replaced the screen in my Droid 3 and it didn't work because the flex cable was damaged.
Based on your photos it looks like what you replaced should have bean sufficient but of course with electrical components who knows... I wouldn't rule out a dead replacement display either. I'm in the middle of a similar situation, returning my replacement display today and trying another.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/google-nexus-5/help/color-issues-screen-replacement-t2993043
Could be a number of things with that physical damage, not just the screen
Oh sorry you said flex cable. I was on my app. My apologies. Honestly it could be the flex cable. I replaced the screen in my Droid 3 and it didn't work because the flex cable was damaged.
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Click to collapse
So you were able to get a display after you changed the flex cable?
The odd thing though is that I'm still able to charge the phone...the flex cable also holds the usb port.
Anyway, I've ordered a new one so we'll see what happens.
If anyone was wondering the screen still does not work with the new flex cable. I'm assuming its a motherboard issue and am just going to sell it on eBay.
Before than, any other suggestions would be appreciated.
LazyNDaCrazyDayz said:
If anyone was wondering the screen still does not work with the new flex cable. I'm assuming its a motherboard issue and am just going to sell it on eBay.
Before than, any other suggestions would be appreciated.
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Click to collapse
Just ask your friend for a refund
dicecuber said:
Just ask your friend for a refund
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I bought it from him for a very cheap price ($30US). Even with it broken, I can still get more for it by selling it on eBay than I can by getting my money back.
Try to make preassure on the wide connector on the motherboard. If display backlights or displays temporarily it's micro distached pins between connector and motherboard. Heat Air is the easy solution! In my case I used hot air heatgun 350°C and 10sec on row near edge of the board. The solder melts and at that time PUT slight PREASSURE down to the connector for few seconds! It makes the legs got proper contact to the pads on the board. Solves problems with Mic and Loudspeaker too becouse it relay on this wide connector.
Good luck Tomáš