For the past few months, a couple of the keys, (mainly backspace, hyphen and 'a'), would stop working occasionally. I finally decided to pry open the keyboard and have a look around, thinking maybe I could fairly easily clean off the key contacts. So I carefully pry the metal top piece away from the plastic back bits...and I accidentally pulled the keyboard ribbon cable out of its connector.
No biggie since it basically slides right out and can easily be re-inserted. Anyway, the keyboard looked like a pain to take apart so I just reassembled the keyboard. Upon booting, the keyboard worked perfectly...and hasn't missed a beat since.
So if you aren't afraid of attacking your precious beasty with a sharp pry-thing, try re-seating the ribbon cable for the keyboard. It seems to have worked for me.
Related
All I have right now is this from someone online who said he had the instructions. If anyone has clear outlined pictures to do this, please post it.
Thank you!
"There are additional screws that need to be taken out. You have to pop off the housing on the top that covers the camera and the antenna port. there will be at least 2 more screws there. Then you will carefully have to pop off the back starting at the bottom by where the stylus is and pull that off. There is probably going to be another screw holding the board in place. It has been a few months since i have done this. Then the board comes out and you have 4 more screws these are phillips heads. That will take the back housing off of the front. Then 4 more screws to take the back plate off of the front housing."
Places i've tried to find LCD Digitizer replacement instructions for cracked LCD
The Audiovox PPC-6700 I have has a cracked screen. I got an LCD replacement, but have no detailed instructions on removing the cracked screen. Here are some useful places i've looked at to find the answer to this issue if it helps you:
http://forum.xda-developers.com ... of course why else would I post it here
http://buzzdev.net/component/option...tart,0/index.php?option=com_phorum&Itemid=125
http://forum.brighthand.com
http://www.mobiletechreview.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php
Not the best...but better than nothing....
Here are my own instructions I started... maybe someone else can expand/refine/clean this up. I'm done with this finally. Changing this is possible, but not necessarily easy. There's this tinny like sticker on the OEM LCD in the phone that's a real pain to pull off of the LCD. The pictures are terrible too...sorry...again..something= better than nothing.
In the end, it works...everything except my toggle does not click in like it used to...that's probably because of that rubber piece I did not know about. (A rubber piece fell out when I was taking it apart and I never figured out where it was supposed to go..so if anyone knows where that belongs and how it should be oriented..please post it.)
I took the stylus out.
I took the miniSD plastic blank out/ or miniSD memory card out just in case.
I took the battery cover off.
I took the battery out.
I set the camera lens in between the picture of the flower and the sun in the back.
I took the rubber piece out..there's a little probe looking thing behind it. (Probably was not necessary to take out.)
I took the back camera cover off. (Remove two Philips head screws with a PH0 head.) There are 7 notches holding it in place. [One above sun/flower adjuster, one slightly to the right above the flash hole, one above the rubber piece, one a tiny bit below the rubber piece, 2 on the insides at the bottom of the philips head screws, and one to the right of the speakerphone.]
I took the green circuit board that has camera flash behind the camera cover off. (Pops up off slot after removing one philips head screw.)
I took the camera unit off. (Do not pull up on camera, just pull the green board up off. The camera is sitting there, the board is wired like the camera flash board was plugged in, just pop it off.)
I took the cell phone antenna philips head screw off that is above where the camera was.
I took the 4 torx .050 allen head type size screws out to remove the back plastic cover of the phone off. Be very careful prying this portion apart. There are probably about 14 notches maybe that holds the back plate on. Some say to start trying to pry it apart from the antenna, but I was able to pry it apart from the bottom part of the phone on the antenna side... not where the antenna is. Be extremely careful how you pry this apart. You have to watch out for the speakerphone wires, there is a plug for what I think might be the keyboard and or LCD, the vibrating weight, and the main board itself... you don't want to scratch or sever any of these parts.
I slid the antenna off of the main board. Lift the board and gently pull up and out the black antenna.
I did not take the speakerphone off, but it looks like you have to pull the wire from the board that would still be attached to the back plate. The vibrating weight is also on the backplate.
I took the main board out of the phone. Keep the slider in mind between the IE button and the recorder button on the side of the phone. The black portion on the main board needs to line up with the actual switch you would slide up or down with your thumb on the side of the phone. When pulling the main board out, slide open the keyboard fully/halfway. Watch for a black rubber piece.
I removed the 4 philips head screws that hold the keyboard portion of the phone to the LCD portion of the phone together and lifted them apart. There is a silver/grey tape that you need to pop up the data cable and pull the tape off to completely separate the LCD portion.
I removed the 4 torx screws from behind the LCD screen and carefully took the LCD portion apart.
...ok well it's getting quite annoying to try and write everything I did after this, but it's pretty self explanatory. If it's not, you probably should not be changing your LCD in the first place anyhow. In order to release the LCD ribbon, the plastic piece at the end will need to pop up at an angle..it's kind of like a winch.
Here's a similar phone that gets taken apart if that helps you out in any way.
.........http://www.mdatweak.com/downloads/Wizard_Service_Manual.pdf
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re
what is the toggle you are refering to? i took mine apart to clean around the screen without any instructions, and everything still works, but the digitizer has had it, where did you get your replacement from?
I got my replacement from eBay. goldelec
The LCD had a weird rainbow thing going on in the center of it, that you can see if you look at it at the right angle and the bottom corner looks bright white when the screen is on for an extensive period of time. Again, it works...better than what I had. I did not get great instructions, but what he sold me worked fine.
The toggle i'm talking about is the button in between the call and hangup buttons on the front face of the phone. That toggle switch just does not seem connected or stiff like it used to be. I can't "click" up/down/left/right or select anything. I am convinced the rubber piece goes behind it somewhere somehow. I just have to take it apart and figure out the orientation of it.
thanks for these pics & instructions, I just replaced with a part from goldelec on ebay as well (though the auction list instructions as part of the deal, they didn't come with my shipment, so your play-by-play was invaluable)...and there's no screws left afterward! Always a good sign.
Maybe this will help some people...
http://wiki.ppcgeeks.com/index.php?title=How_To:Disassemble_your_6700
lcd replacement instructions
www.htclcd.com has a lot of good lcd replacement instructions also
as well as the LCD's
I just took apart two 6700's today (had to replace the buttons on the face and the circuit board underneath so for now I scavenged the parts from my backup phone)
anyway the phone is surprisingly easy to take apart and surprisingly straight forward.
You do not even have to organize the screws as there is ONLY 2 kinds (I like that) and its obvious when to use each as they are very different in size.
a straight head will take out the star bits if your careful (if you have one of those many different jewlers drivers kits you will find one that fits just fine)
OK cover card stylus battery out.
4 screws. 2 dark large at the bottom 2 small silver at the top of the battery cavity (the one on the top right is hidden underneath a small white sticker)
Now the "top" plastic section comes apart. (the area with the camera) make sure the camera switch is ALL THE WAY one way first it will make things easier later.
Lift from the bottom LEFT there is a tab under the black antennae casing and a tab on the right next to the speaker. Pry gently and it will "pop free" don't YANK as the speaker is attached still.
Pop the speaker out (leave it attached no reason to mess with that wee connector.)
Remove the single screw from the center of those board. NOW caution there is a square white soft "seal" around the led do not lose it.
finger tail "pop" the boards out.
Camera module same thing finger nail "pop" the module pops out but those asside.
3 more larger dark screws remove them now.
Now you need to remove the back half the the shell. Lift with force till you have a small opening and start poking at the hold downs till you can work it free. the hang point is again the black antennae housing. This was the most difficult part to remove and it was not that hard. Use care so it will look clean when you put it back together if thats important to you.
Now you see the mother board. one single screw is left silver middle right side (away from antennae)
Time to remove the main board. you need to use CARE here as its "catched" on opposing side (the usb port and ear piece ports) and the Black antenna housing.) and also atached via a short ribbon cable.
Once you have it free SLIDE out the keyboard this will give you a lot more slack to lift up the main board and tilt it sideways.
Peel the tape carefully once its free it will "pop" free using the same style connector as the camera board etc.. used.
remove and put asside.
now remove the 4 screws holding the keyboard to the phone. its free put asside (those are the only 4 that are different just LEAVE them in there holes they will stay if you don't toss it around)
now remove the 4 black screws holding the back of the keyboard housing down. Pop it free (its not hard there are poke holes made for this like flat screwdriver slots)
once you do this the ribbon will slide through the opening no worries.
now act like your breaking a glow stick and "bend" the case sides so the screen can be popped up a little.
lift the orange tape and you will see a different kind of rubbon connector. its white with a tiny black flap. use a finger nail and lift it will ROTATE 90's to vertical. the ribbon cable will now pop free.
now remove the 2 screws holding down the circuit board. remove it and the button pad (this is why you had to lift the screen a little or these won't come out.
Thats it. I did not go further than this but I do not remember it "looking" like it would be hard at all to get the screen and digitizer out.
This is all straight from memory so read ALL this first and adapt as you progress. DO not take it verbatum.
If something does not want to give ASSUME you forgot a screw and be extra diligent to find it before attempting to increase the amount of force you use though sometimes it just "needs" a wee more force.
Good Luck
I should have taken pics which I usually do when I do this again I will take detailed pics.
Ohh dolt reassembly
do everything in reverse. thats it. here are some tips for the tricky spots.
Reinserting the button pad ribbon. IE reconnect the ribbon BEFORE you put it in. its a lot easier. make sure its in all the way push the flap back down push the tape back down. Easy
Rescrewing the keyboard into the main shell. Get it roughly lined up and LOOK INSIDE one of the holes as you wiggle it around. you will see the screw hole quite clearly when it appears. insert and screw down. Do one on the other side easy as pie.
When you put the main board back in you need to make sure the VOLUME slide switch is in the MIDDLE neutral position so it it lines up with the volume slider itself IE it has to move BOTH direction misalign this and it will be jammed one way or the other. Pop it apart and try again.
When you put the final cover back on make sure the SWITCH for the camera is in the same direction as the plastic lever (the actual switch) so that they line up when you snap them together.
thats it. Really not that hard.
Hi all
My D pad has come off and I am just about to get a new keypad
for the front of the phone.
I have read the manual but its not very detailed about the keypad.
I have been told I can lift the keypad up at the front and pull it off
then the one I get will be sticky backed and I just have to put it back on
ion the right place but I am not sure about this.
so any help would be great
thanks for your time
Don't mess around with the keyboard assembly on the Vox. Mostly you make things worse. The keyboard consist of 3 layers and all are glued on the other only. So if one thing gets off, just re-glue it back. The Layers are:
1.) bottom: semi-flexible PBA, glued to the housing - contains also the sealed pushpads for the keys
2.) middle: rubber middle layer, glued to the PBA on dedicated edges to leave the room for the keys to press
3.) keys: one-by-one glued ot the rubber layer, so normally 2+3 is just one layer and it cannot easily be separated. If a key falls off, take a little super-glue and put it back where it should be.
Thanks for your answer
but I lost the D pad keys when they come off,
I have now got the new keypad and it looks like peel off the back paper
then it will stick to the board that plugs into the mother board.
but I am not trying to do it yet, I am waiting on HTC to email me back.
Well, than you have to remove the old Keypad+rubber layer. This is a lilttle destructive though as the sticky glue will not allow you to easily peel it off. As you see with the new keypad, there are little "noses" at several places (top: left + right & at the D-Pad and bottom: left + right). To peel it off, start at the side in the middle (no "noses" there) and work through the rest of the pad. After removal, clean the PBA carefully (eg. lighter-fuel) so that no glue remains and it is dry. This is very hard - I am not sure if you can remove the texture part of the glue on the PBA at all, I could not.
For re-assembly the tricky part is to get the pad flat and aligned to all edges BEFORE it fully sticks to the PBA. If it is not aligned it looks horrible, if it is not flat, you may end up with a hump in the middle - also horrible.
I think you have to start at top, insert noses first and when the top is aligned and fixed work the rest down, but take care about the bottom noses. You need to fit them in first by bending the pad up in the middle, inserting the noses (but not have it glued there), making it flat again (still not sticky) and then roll it downwards to fully stick. If the glue is very stick (which I hope) you have only one try. You may want to experiment with the removed one first. So have fun doing it...
BTW: Where die you buy it and how much you paid?
Thanks mate for the nfo.
I know a guy who has a dead vox so I will go and see if I can have it
and try what you said. Other then that I will have to pay a shop to do it.
Greetings folks...here's a question to any of you that have taken your devices apart.
Had a clumsy moment with my coffee and ended up spilling a small amount on the tf700 keyboard. Whoops. Did my best to suction the coffee out of the keys but had a problem with keys getting chorded due to the coffee (ie pressing "A" would give me "AB" and so on).
I took the dock apart to dry it out. Eventually I got 99% of the keyboard functionality back, but my caps lock, TAB and back-quote keys remain completely dead (the caps lock light won't even come on).
Is there some other way to get "inside" the actual keyboard part of the device? I was not happy to see that the keyboard itself is moulded and plastic-sealed right on to the inside of the dock metal (ie you can't unscrew it). Can you safely pop the keys off from the top? I have checked and double-checked the ribbon cables...they are clean and snapped into place on the small motherboard inside. I believe the keys are still working...if I hold down the "L" key and hit caps lock, the "L" key stops repeating so a signal is getting through. I think coffee gunk is still inside but since I can't actually take the keyboard itself apart, it's going to be hard to clean.
As an aside, what crappy worksmanship in this dock. Since day one the back part of the dock would "pop apart" if I had the tablet docked...now I know why, Asus manufacturing did NOT actually screw in the back screws hidden under the footpads. Doesn't happen now that I've "fixed" it. Oooh I voided my warrantee..
I'm also looking for an answer after an unfortunate incident with some tonic water (Damn high fructose corn syrup...). I also discovered the loose screws on my dock.
I'm sad to say I finally destroyed my TF300. It fell from about 6 feet onto tile. The screen is cracked in quite a few places, but luckily it didn't spiderweb. The touchscreen kind of works, I say kind of, because it's touching in random places all over the screen. So my question is, can I possibly unplug the digitizer only since the LCD works fine? That way I can use the keyboard dock's mouse or a USB mouse and still use the device. Thanks in advance for any help.
this happened to me as well. On youtube there are many tutorials of how to replace the screen..
they will show you how to take the back casing off
then you can just unplug the digitizer cable (its the yellow cable with two connections on the bottom right of the back of the tablet) this will disable the touch but if you go that far you might as well replace the whole screen you can get online for $50.
and make sure to take note of the digitizer revision number as asus makes 4 different types and only the one will work on your tablet when you want to fix it...its a number on the digitizer cable either g01 g02 g03 or one other i cant remember off the top of my head
schkeet said:
this happened to me as well. On youtube there are many tutorials of how to replace the screen..
they will show you how to take the back casing off
then you can just unplug the digitizer cable (its the yellow cable with two connections on the bottom right of the back of the tablet) this will disable the touch but if you go that far you might as well replace the whole screen you can get online for $50.
and make sure to take note of the digitizer revision number as asus makes 4 different types and only the one will work on your tablet when you want to fix it...its a number on the digitizer cable either g01 g02 g03 or one other i cant remember off the top of my head
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I meant that I didn't want to fix the display, just disable the digitizer so that I can continue to use the device via HDMI. If I unplug the digitizer, will the LCD still work?
After unplugging the ribbon cable for the digitizer, most of the random touches have stopped. But now, even using the built in touchpad or a USB mouse, touches do not hold and can cause random presses to occur in various parts of the screen. Any ideas?
I'm not sure but could be a different problem? I've done the same to mine and my keyboard dock works just fine
savergn said:
After unplugging the ribbon cable for the digitizer, most of the random touches have stopped. But now, even using the built in touchpad or a USB mouse, touches do not hold and can cause random presses to occur in various parts of the screen. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Spontaneous presses? This is at random, some tabs have it, others don't. That ain't from the keyboard; rather from either the digitizer, though detached it might be, or the TS board, or both in close proximity with one another. I've experienced this and still have no idea why. I've had perfectly good dig and TS Board do it when the board is left dangling and not screwed down to the magnesium frame. The only way to stop is to replace the digitizer. Or you can try to yank the dig's ribbons off the glass, as I've noticed ghost touches produced by a dig with partially torn ribbons (on the glass side) that were still connected to the PCB. The dig is not repairable anyways. You're risking nothing.
graphdarnell said:
Spontaneous presses? This is at random, some tabs have it, others don't. That ain't from the keyboard; rather from either the digitizer, though detached it might be, or the TS board, or both in close proximity with one another. I've experienced this and still have no idea why. I've had perfectly good dig and TS Board do it when the board is left dangling and not screwed down to the magnesium frame. The only way to stop is to replace the digitizer. Or you can try to yank the dig's ribbons off the glass, as I've noticed ghost touches produced by a dig with partially torn ribbons (on the glass side) that were still connected to the PCB. The dig is not repairable anyways. You're risking nothing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you possibly have any photos or tutorials that might be able to help me out so I don't cause anymore damage to the tablet?
savergn said:
Do you possibly have any photos or tutorials that might be able to help me out so I don't cause anymore damage to the tablet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure where to start. If you've taken apart the thing before, i'd be easier. Remove the back. Turn off the service switch (Important). Otherwise, you might burn a coil on the motherboard. If you don't know what that is, look at the top of the motherboard. To the left of the power switch (thin amber ribbon for power on top side and volume on right side), there's a switch mounted on the other side but accessible from the top of the board. You'll see the printing "off" and "on" on this side. Slide it to "off" position. (Thumb attached shows location of switch at top, and where the ribbons should be cut off at bottom).
The ribbon part that's taped to the glass is hidden under the lcd. If you don't care, just snip it off where it meets the lcd edge. There's really no need to remove the lcd if you're not intent on replacing the digitizer. Again, since I am not certain what caused the ghost touches in your cases, it's possible they will continue. Hopefully, they won't. But at this point, the digitizer serves no function other than protecting the lcd surface on the outside. No need to save the ribbons.
To tell you the truth, I've tried using the tab with a dock and no touchscreen. You can live with it, but it's enormous inconvenience any way you use the device, from recoveries to roms to any app within. It's just not designed to be user-friendly that way. I eventually gave up and replaced the digitizer. You can find one for around $35.00 these days.
graphdarnell said:
Not sure where to start. If you've taken apart the thing before, i'd be easier. Remove the back. Turn off the service switch (Important). Otherwise, you might burn a coil on the motherboard. If you don't know what that is, look at the top of the motherboard. To the left of the power switch (thin amber ribbon for power on top side and volume on right side), there's a switch mounted on the other side but accessible from the top of the board. You'll see the printing "off" and "on" on this side. Slide it to "off" position. (Thumb attached shows location of switch at top, and where the ribbons should be cut off at bottom).
The ribbon part that's taped to the glass is hidden under the lcd. If you don't care, just snip it off where it meets the lcd edge. There's really no need to remove the lcd if you're not intent on replacing the digitizer. Again, since I am not certain what caused the ghost touches in your cases, it's possible they will continue. Hopefully, they won't. But at this point, the digitizer serves no function other than protecting the lcd surface on the outside. No need to save the ribbons.
To tell you the truth, I've tried using the tab with a dock and no touchscreen. You can live with it, but it's enormous inconvenience any way you use the device, from recoveries to roms to any app within. It's just not designed to be user-friendly that way. I eventually gave up and replaced the digitizer. You can find one for around $35.00 these days.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for the information.
I don't plan on using it as a daily device, I just picked up my Note 3 the other day, and using the TF300 is going to feel like going back to the stone age. I really just wanted it to have basic functionality, because I still have the HDMI cable for it, and have XBMC and VLC installed on it, so I can play videos easily on my TV. It has Cyanogenmod on it right now, so really, it should be fine for a while. I could probably also hook up my dualshock 3 to it and game on a TV. Portable low-end console. I'll update the thread later if whenever I get around to cutting the ribbon cable. Thanks again.
I bought my tf700t with tf201 dock second hand some 2 months ago. Everything worked perfectly up until 2 weeks ago. The previous owner had the thing rooted (build-number: TF700 CROMi-Xenogenesis 5.2.2-10.6.1.27.5 WW DEODEX). There are lots of people on the internet with the same kind of problems on unrooted tf700's so I don't expect it to be a problem with rooting.
What happens?
- The connection between dock and tablet seems to get lost, found again, get lost again etc. within minutes.
- I have a SD-card fitted in the dock and on the bottom of the screen I get messages that tell me he has found a SD-card. Then apparently it loses it again because a few minutes later the same message pops up again and again etc.
- In the beginning (and according to other people on the web still continuing) the tablet would only recognize the dock when charging. Without being plugged in it wouldn't be recognized at all. I opened up the dock and sprayed some contactspray where the cables come out of the hinge and want to connect to the small cable plugs on the dock, That seems to at least have worked to a certain extent, tablet and dock see each other. It says the keyboard should be used but then most keys won't work nor will the trackpad. Only the top row of keys keep functioning (except only the key in the top left corner (that flips a page backwards). But then again, sometimes you can use the keyboard on the dock for a while and then it's stops again (except for the top row of keys. They always work.)
- If I charge my dock to the max and then connect it with the screen most of the time it tells you that the battery of the dock is drained. Sometimes wiggling te tablet in it's slot brings back the battery to life.
Does anybody have a (possible) solution for these problems? I would be so grateful and so would a bunch of pitiful people roaming the back alleys of the internet in the hope of salvation.
One more thing. Several complainers have swiched dock and tablets and the problem seems to be with tablet. If the tablet is ok, then you fit any keyboard. If the tablet is dodgy it won't connect properly with any dock. At least that's what I hear.
Is there anybody with the brilliant solution or a hint at least? I started writing my bestseller on this thing, but like this it's going back to the study again in stead of to a nice terrace in the sun with drinks available.
Thanks in advance for all your trouble.
It looks like the problem is solved. I took the hinge apart, tightened all screws and bolts and put it back together. That seemed to do it .
Just so people don't have to look any further, here's how you take the hinge apart:
- Take out the 2 bolts on the outside of the hinge.
- On the inside of the hinge, on 'the bottom' are 3 pieces of plastic strip or adhesive tape (one approx. 12 cm long on the left side, one approx. 4 cm on the right side and on very small piece in between of 0.5 cm). Using tweezers and/or a scalpel-like knife, carefully peel away the longest strip of plastic working from the outside inwards. You will find three screws within the first 5 cm or so. Take them out. Stop peeling, leave the plastic strip around the data connector attached and start on the other end of this plastic strip, working from right to left. You'll find a screw immediately. Take it out, leave the rest of the strip attached. The 5th screw you'll find underneath the outer end of the 4 cm strip on the right side of the hinge.
- Now you can split the hinge in 2 parts. If necessary, use a small screwdriver at the outer ends to carefully wedge the hinge apart.
- In the part that's still connected to the dock you'll find 4 screws. The outer 2 have a tendency to become loose. Tightening them 'repaired' my dock.