Replaceing the front keypad HELP - HTC Vox

Hi all
My D pad has come off and I am just about to get a new keypad
for the front of the phone.
I have read the manual but its not very detailed about the keypad.
I have been told I can lift the keypad up at the front and pull it off
then the one I get will be sticky backed and I just have to put it back on
ion the right place but I am not sure about this.
so any help would be great
thanks for your time

Don't mess around with the keyboard assembly on the Vox. Mostly you make things worse. The keyboard consist of 3 layers and all are glued on the other only. So if one thing gets off, just re-glue it back. The Layers are:
1.) bottom: semi-flexible PBA, glued to the housing - contains also the sealed pushpads for the keys
2.) middle: rubber middle layer, glued to the PBA on dedicated edges to leave the room for the keys to press
3.) keys: one-by-one glued ot the rubber layer, so normally 2+3 is just one layer and it cannot easily be separated. If a key falls off, take a little super-glue and put it back where it should be.

Thanks for your answer
but I lost the D pad keys when they come off,
I have now got the new keypad and it looks like peel off the back paper
then it will stick to the board that plugs into the mother board.
but I am not trying to do it yet, I am waiting on HTC to email me back.

Well, than you have to remove the old Keypad+rubber layer. This is a lilttle destructive though as the sticky glue will not allow you to easily peel it off. As you see with the new keypad, there are little "noses" at several places (top: left + right & at the D-Pad and bottom: left + right). To peel it off, start at the side in the middle (no "noses" there) and work through the rest of the pad. After removal, clean the PBA carefully (eg. lighter-fuel) so that no glue remains and it is dry. This is very hard - I am not sure if you can remove the texture part of the glue on the PBA at all, I could not.
For re-assembly the tricky part is to get the pad flat and aligned to all edges BEFORE it fully sticks to the PBA. If it is not aligned it looks horrible, if it is not flat, you may end up with a hump in the middle - also horrible.
I think you have to start at top, insert noses first and when the top is aligned and fixed work the rest down, but take care about the bottom noses. You need to fit them in first by bending the pad up in the middle, inserting the noses (but not have it glued there), making it flat again (still not sticky) and then roll it downwards to fully stick. If the glue is very stick (which I hope) you have only one try. You may want to experiment with the removed one first. So have fun doing it...
BTW: Where die you buy it and how much you paid?

Thanks mate for the nfo.
I know a guy who has a dead vox so I will go and see if I can have it
and try what you said. Other then that I will have to pay a shop to do it.

Related

HTC Apache Audiovox PPC6700 LCD / Digitizer Replacement Instructions

All I have right now is this from someone online who said he had the instructions. If anyone has clear outlined pictures to do this, please post it.
Thank you!
"There are additional screws that need to be taken out. You have to pop off the housing on the top that covers the camera and the antenna port. there will be at least 2 more screws there. Then you will carefully have to pop off the back starting at the bottom by where the stylus is and pull that off. There is probably going to be another screw holding the board in place. It has been a few months since i have done this. Then the board comes out and you have 4 more screws these are phillips heads. That will take the back housing off of the front. Then 4 more screws to take the back plate off of the front housing."
Places i've tried to find LCD Digitizer replacement instructions for cracked LCD
The Audiovox PPC-6700 I have has a cracked screen. I got an LCD replacement, but have no detailed instructions on removing the cracked screen. Here are some useful places i've looked at to find the answer to this issue if it helps you:
http://forum.xda-developers.com ... of course why else would I post it here
http://buzzdev.net/component/option...tart,0/index.php?option=com_phorum&Itemid=125
http://forum.brighthand.com
http://www.mobiletechreview.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php
Not the best...but better than nothing....
Here are my own instructions I started... maybe someone else can expand/refine/clean this up. I'm done with this finally. Changing this is possible, but not necessarily easy. There's this tinny like sticker on the OEM LCD in the phone that's a real pain to pull off of the LCD. The pictures are terrible too...sorry...again..something= better than nothing.
In the end, it works...everything except my toggle does not click in like it used to...that's probably because of that rubber piece I did not know about. (A rubber piece fell out when I was taking it apart and I never figured out where it was supposed to go..so if anyone knows where that belongs and how it should be oriented..please post it.)
I took the stylus out.
I took the miniSD plastic blank out/ or miniSD memory card out just in case.
I took the battery cover off.
I took the battery out.
I set the camera lens in between the picture of the flower and the sun in the back.
I took the rubber piece out..there's a little probe looking thing behind it. (Probably was not necessary to take out.)
I took the back camera cover off. (Remove two Philips head screws with a PH0 head.) There are 7 notches holding it in place. [One above sun/flower adjuster, one slightly to the right above the flash hole, one above the rubber piece, one a tiny bit below the rubber piece, 2 on the insides at the bottom of the philips head screws, and one to the right of the speakerphone.]
I took the green circuit board that has camera flash behind the camera cover off. (Pops up off slot after removing one philips head screw.)
I took the camera unit off. (Do not pull up on camera, just pull the green board up off. The camera is sitting there, the board is wired like the camera flash board was plugged in, just pop it off.)
I took the cell phone antenna philips head screw off that is above where the camera was.
I took the 4 torx .050 allen head type size screws out to remove the back plastic cover of the phone off. Be very careful prying this portion apart. There are probably about 14 notches maybe that holds the back plate on. Some say to start trying to pry it apart from the antenna, but I was able to pry it apart from the bottom part of the phone on the antenna side... not where the antenna is. Be extremely careful how you pry this apart. You have to watch out for the speakerphone wires, there is a plug for what I think might be the keyboard and or LCD, the vibrating weight, and the main board itself... you don't want to scratch or sever any of these parts.
I slid the antenna off of the main board. Lift the board and gently pull up and out the black antenna.
I did not take the speakerphone off, but it looks like you have to pull the wire from the board that would still be attached to the back plate. The vibrating weight is also on the backplate.
I took the main board out of the phone. Keep the slider in mind between the IE button and the recorder button on the side of the phone. The black portion on the main board needs to line up with the actual switch you would slide up or down with your thumb on the side of the phone. When pulling the main board out, slide open the keyboard fully/halfway. Watch for a black rubber piece.
I removed the 4 philips head screws that hold the keyboard portion of the phone to the LCD portion of the phone together and lifted them apart. There is a silver/grey tape that you need to pop up the data cable and pull the tape off to completely separate the LCD portion.
I removed the 4 torx screws from behind the LCD screen and carefully took the LCD portion apart.
...ok well it's getting quite annoying to try and write everything I did after this, but it's pretty self explanatory. If it's not, you probably should not be changing your LCD in the first place anyhow. In order to release the LCD ribbon, the plastic piece at the end will need to pop up at an angle..it's kind of like a winch.
Here's a similar phone that gets taken apart if that helps you out in any way.
.........http://www.mdatweak.com/downloads/Wizard_Service_Manual.pdf
Pix 1-5 of 21 attached.
Pix 6-10 of 21 attached.
Pix 6-10 of 21 attached.
Pix 11-15 of 21 attached.
Pix 11-15 of 21 attached.
Pix 16-20 of 21 attached.
Pix 16-20 of 21 attached.
Pix 21 of 21 attached.
Pix 21 of 21 attached.
re
what is the toggle you are refering to? i took mine apart to clean around the screen without any instructions, and everything still works, but the digitizer has had it, where did you get your replacement from?
I got my replacement from eBay. goldelec
The LCD had a weird rainbow thing going on in the center of it, that you can see if you look at it at the right angle and the bottom corner looks bright white when the screen is on for an extensive period of time. Again, it works...better than what I had. I did not get great instructions, but what he sold me worked fine.
The toggle i'm talking about is the button in between the call and hangup buttons on the front face of the phone. That toggle switch just does not seem connected or stiff like it used to be. I can't "click" up/down/left/right or select anything. I am convinced the rubber piece goes behind it somewhere somehow. I just have to take it apart and figure out the orientation of it.
thanks for these pics & instructions, I just replaced with a part from goldelec on ebay as well (though the auction list instructions as part of the deal, they didn't come with my shipment, so your play-by-play was invaluable)...and there's no screws left afterward! Always a good sign.
Maybe this will help some people...
http://wiki.ppcgeeks.com/index.php?title=How_To:Disassemble_your_6700
lcd replacement instructions
www.htclcd.com has a lot of good lcd replacement instructions also
as well as the LCD's
I just took apart two 6700's today (had to replace the buttons on the face and the circuit board underneath so for now I scavenged the parts from my backup phone)
anyway the phone is surprisingly easy to take apart and surprisingly straight forward.
You do not even have to organize the screws as there is ONLY 2 kinds (I like that) and its obvious when to use each as they are very different in size.
a straight head will take out the star bits if your careful (if you have one of those many different jewlers drivers kits you will find one that fits just fine)
OK cover card stylus battery out.
4 screws. 2 dark large at the bottom 2 small silver at the top of the battery cavity (the one on the top right is hidden underneath a small white sticker)
Now the "top" plastic section comes apart. (the area with the camera) make sure the camera switch is ALL THE WAY one way first it will make things easier later.
Lift from the bottom LEFT there is a tab under the black antennae casing and a tab on the right next to the speaker. Pry gently and it will "pop free" don't YANK as the speaker is attached still.
Pop the speaker out (leave it attached no reason to mess with that wee connector.)
Remove the single screw from the center of those board. NOW caution there is a square white soft "seal" around the led do not lose it.
finger tail "pop" the boards out.
Camera module same thing finger nail "pop" the module pops out but those asside.
3 more larger dark screws remove them now.
Now you need to remove the back half the the shell. Lift with force till you have a small opening and start poking at the hold downs till you can work it free. the hang point is again the black antennae housing. This was the most difficult part to remove and it was not that hard. Use care so it will look clean when you put it back together if thats important to you.
Now you see the mother board. one single screw is left silver middle right side (away from antennae)
Time to remove the main board. you need to use CARE here as its "catched" on opposing side (the usb port and ear piece ports) and the Black antenna housing.) and also atached via a short ribbon cable.
Once you have it free SLIDE out the keyboard this will give you a lot more slack to lift up the main board and tilt it sideways.
Peel the tape carefully once its free it will "pop" free using the same style connector as the camera board etc.. used.
remove and put asside.
now remove the 4 screws holding the keyboard to the phone. its free put asside (those are the only 4 that are different just LEAVE them in there holes they will stay if you don't toss it around)
now remove the 4 black screws holding the back of the keyboard housing down. Pop it free (its not hard there are poke holes made for this like flat screwdriver slots)
once you do this the ribbon will slide through the opening no worries.
now act like your breaking a glow stick and "bend" the case sides so the screen can be popped up a little.
lift the orange tape and you will see a different kind of rubbon connector. its white with a tiny black flap. use a finger nail and lift it will ROTATE 90's to vertical. the ribbon cable will now pop free.
now remove the 2 screws holding down the circuit board. remove it and the button pad (this is why you had to lift the screen a little or these won't come out.
Thats it. I did not go further than this but I do not remember it "looking" like it would be hard at all to get the screen and digitizer out.
This is all straight from memory so read ALL this first and adapt as you progress. DO not take it verbatum.
If something does not want to give ASSUME you forgot a screw and be extra diligent to find it before attempting to increase the amount of force you use though sometimes it just "needs" a wee more force.
Good Luck
I should have taken pics which I usually do when I do this again I will take detailed pics.
Ohh dolt reassembly
do everything in reverse. thats it. here are some tips for the tricky spots.
Reinserting the button pad ribbon. IE reconnect the ribbon BEFORE you put it in. its a lot easier. make sure its in all the way push the flap back down push the tape back down. Easy
Rescrewing the keyboard into the main shell. Get it roughly lined up and LOOK INSIDE one of the holes as you wiggle it around. you will see the screw hole quite clearly when it appears. insert and screw down. Do one on the other side easy as pie.
When you put the main board back in you need to make sure the VOLUME slide switch is in the MIDDLE neutral position so it it lines up with the volume slider itself IE it has to move BOTH direction misalign this and it will be jammed one way or the other. Pop it apart and try again.
When you put the final cover back on make sure the SWITCH for the camera is in the same direction as the plastic lever (the actual switch) so that they line up when you snap them together.
thats it. Really not that hard.

Guide: HTC Cruise Polaris Screen replacement/dismantling

It happened to me that the TC fell on the sidewalk face down, so I had to find and replace the screen. Couldn't find any pictorial guide so I decided to share my experience for the benefit of others with the same problem.
Cause: Cell phone shocked, fell down, hit
Symptoms: touch screen works OK, but display has cracks, blackened areas, which are spreading as time goes by.
Screen type : TC combines the matrix sensor (touch) and the LCD in 2 layers, the front touch-glass and shell, and the LCD itself underneath it.
Source of display: I bought via eBay on this source: Asia Bol
http://stores.ebay.com/newasiabol
Cost $70 inc. shipping and arrived within a week and a half. Rumors insists the at below $100 a screen is either factory dropout or refurbished.
Tools needed: Torx screwdriver T5-50, the size can be viewed after removing battery door, at lower corner.
A flat sharp tool ("fish knife") to help open the plastic case, but not too sharp to scratch the phone.
Here are the pictures and some notes:
1. Remove battery case and battery, SIM
2. Remove 2 screws from lower side
3. Prick open the shell with the flat tool
4. Prick open the top shell with the flat tool
5. CAREFUL as there are 2 tiny ribbons from the touch screen/hardware buttons into the PCB, one is held in place with sticky band (keys), the other (digitizer) is locked in-place with a lever, tiny one! - pull them out, not before noticing where they went into and lifting the lever on the smaller one.
6. Take apart the FRONT shell with the flat tool slowly as not to tear ribbons
7. Pull the LCD ribbon out
8. Carefully pull the old screen as it is held in place with sticky gum
9. Clean interior glass of phone if needed, pull out new screen protective sheet and put in place.
10. Connect new screen ribbon, 2 keyboard/jog tiny ribbons
11. Press shells in place
12. Pray you didn't forget anything and load SIM and battery
13. Good luck
more pictures...
following...(please note that where it's marked on the above picture as "jog wheel" - it is not. it's the glass digitizer ribbon.
Excelent work....!!!
Awesome man
Great contribution! You give me hope for the next generation of xda'ers!
Thank you!
Excellent work! Must be added to Polaris wiki page (if it hasn't yet!)
my lcd screen crashed 1 month ago. replaced a new screen for 450 CNY included the handwork fee.
great job.... thanks for sharing
My TC has got a big scratch on the screen (cheers to Jack, my cat who is responsible for that )...
I just ordered a new LCD screen, and by "mistake" i only ordered the digitizer...
Now after reading this post, it seems that I accidentaly did the right thing, since is only the front panel which is scratched and not the LCD itself... Am I correct?
Anyway do i have to disassemble the whole phone to get the front panel out???
As you see on the completly dismanteled TC picture above (left on the last picts row), there are:
Glass top, actually the outer top shell, and the LCD & Digitizer are one piece (the 'glassy' square with flat orange attachement)
If the scratch in on the shell glass, that's not the LCD screen, it is the so called "LCD LENS GLASS" or "faceplate".
If the TC fell and you see cracks and smears on the screen instead of what should be displayed, that's the LCD.
Please make sure where your scratches are.
Reuvenm said:
As you see on the completly dismanteled TC picture above (left on the last picts row), there are:
Glass top, actually the outer top shell, and the LCD & Digitizer are one piece (the 'glassy' square with flat orange attachement)
If the scratch in on the shell glass, that's not the LCD screen, it is the so called "LCD LENS GLASS" or "faceplate".
If the TC fell and you see cracks and smears on the screen instead of what should be displayed, that's the LCD.
Please make sure where your scratches are.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the Info,you ve been very helpful .... Well my scratch is on the outside and I couldnt find any outside faceplate for my TC... Instead I ordered the digitizer (see picture attached) which for me it seemed as the right option (I did that before reading your post )... Now I will just have to wait and see when it comes, if i did the right thing........ I will let you know
well, I was (and still) confused as I was looking for some info about the screen assembly, and the only one I've found was on this lab site (not particular to TC model though).
Please read the paragraph in RED starting with "ATTENTION..." later on that page (the link above includes Google's translation from russian).
More confusing is that the part you mention here IS available as is...
puzzle solved.
I was curious so I dismantled the TC again, than I notice the the glass shell IS carrying a tiny ribbon, which means IT IS the digitizer (I though it's coming from the hardware keys).
So I assume you ordered the right part.
Reuvenm said:
puzzle solved.
I was curious so I dismantled the TC again, than I notice the the glass shell IS carrying a tiny ribbon, which means IT IS the digitizer (I though it's coming from the hardware keys).
So I assume you ordered the right part.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cheers... I feel ever so glad!!! ... but you would recon I would have to go through all the procedure to get it out and install the new one?
Actually it's a very delicate work with a steady hand and non scratching behaviour.
points to notice:
- The side silver bars are detached by sliding as well as pulling gently, as there are L shaped pins coming out of them into a niche in the body.
- The glass digitizer ribbon is run from one side of the main board into the other, so unlocking it (small lever and pull out) is needed as well as having the upper and rear shell apart as much as allowed, Or having the LCD wide ribbon out (& digitizer small one) and let the 2 shells free for easy access.
Saying that, it means that the procedure is almost identical as for replacing the LCD as the glass/digitizer is attached to front glass with sticky rubber and you need to get in there to release the tiny ribbon.
In your case I assume you also have to pull the bottom hardware keys' plate (assembly), in order to release it from the old shell/glass.
If that is the case, be carefull as the assembly is pinched into place by fragile plastic bumps that keep it in tight place in order to make a good push action (click). You'll have to widen the shell sides a bit and help it out.
! bent ribbon, and some mulfunction may occure.
Awesome Guide, Reuvenm you're the MAN!
I'd been searching all over for this guide so as to attempt to remove both the front and back camera. My Company just implemented this silly policy that doesn't allow phone w camera
Reuvenm, by any chance that you've had a good look at both the front and back camera and if it's a type which can be un-plug easily? Pls do not bother to disassemble the TC again, really. Just wanna check cos you may have shot some other pics of your disassembled gem that may show the front and back cameras
Anyway, great job and thanks a bunch in advance
you can disable the camera by software & registry, but I guess they want it to be out of sight..
as you see on the left pict on the first row of images, the front camera is a cubic aparatuse with 3-wings circle in the middle, just underneath the ext GPS antena hole:
this can be pulled out but I think it's ribbon (connection flat wires) is going via a cooling metal plate element and then to a PCB connector. Not sure about that as it's very delicate in there.
as for the back camera, I can't recall
here is a close up:
Hi Reuvenm, thanks for the really quick reply. Yeah i wanna get them removed altogether. So I took a leap of faith and viola! I had gotten the Back camera (3M pixel cam) out!
Followed the steps as you had illustrated and yes the 3M pixel camera was attached using some kind of L-shape flat metallic ribbon cable that ends up w a PCB connector. Wasn't difficult to remove though. I'll try to disassemble the Front camera tomorrow when i've got the time cos got to catch up on some work now.
A really big THANK YOU to Reuvenm for posting this amazing guide and i'll get some shots of the Front Cam removal and post them back here again.
Outstanding work man
You really got the guts gotta say
Elegantly done and explained!! I copied this guide with pics for future reference
This opens the door for a whole new era I guess, right guys!?
glass deformation
Hello gusy
Can you give me a suggestion ?
One day i noticed this "stain" on my screen when the device is off.
At first i thought it was liquid traped insinde the lcd (as seen on other phones) but it turned out not to be.
This stain is visible only in bright neon light (at my workplace), and it moves or dissapears almost completly when i press the screen.
Outside, or in normal light the sceen has no problem.
I think that the top glass part of the screen is to big and it bends a little causing this.
Can i remove the top layer of glass, cutt let's say a half of milimiter from the side, and stick it back on ? or is there someting holding it under ?
I noticed that in a corner i could peal it off, but i don;t want to take any chances to breack something.
thanks in advance

Crystal buttons cover capacative.

I figured a very clean and "factory" looking mod/tweak to help with the button setup when you're fumbling for them in the dark. I found some clear sticky rubber nubs -- the kind you get at a drug store or home improvement place to put on the bottoms of lamps so they don't scratch your table. Then I took a leather hole punch and punched tiny little buttons in the flat rubber coating BETWEEN the nubs. Effectively, I created flat, clear buttons. Put those over each of the capacitive touch buttons, and you have just enough physical difference to tell what's what. Since they're see-through, you can still see what the button is, too. The touch reads through the rubber (or maybe it's around it) -- and I haven't had any mis-reads yet. You might just cover one or two of them - just enough to create a pattern for yourself.
I put nubs on the side of the case next to each location, same idea and works well! Good mod!

Spv c600 disassembly

does anybody know how to disassemble a spv c600 since i want to replace a cover
Look up the web for similar device disassembly (Qtek 8200 has a simliar housing). Basically they are all made the same. Rough sequence is:
remove battery cover
loosen all visible screws (2 at the bottom + 2 under the battery, 1 of them is under the warranty sticker) - you need Torx T6
Flip up the antenna/Cover. This depends on the device-type how it is locked, but you must for any device start lifting at the bottom/back side - you will not succeed on the topside. For some (SDA-USA) you have to lift the sides from the device- for others (O2 XDA Phone, Qtek 8200) there are little holes in the frame part towards the battery. You must lift the locks at the right place. If you take a very small flat screwdriver, just insert carfeully (about 1 cm) and lift up - using the screw driver as a lever. Once both sides are up, you can lift it completely and remove it.
2 more screws are on top of the device - remove them.
insert a credit card or something alike between frame and top cover, usually at the side buttons it is the easiest. Don't insert that too deep (1-2mm) and slide it along the side until all locks are open. Be careful at the bottom right side (looking on the face) as there goes the keyboard cable - don't hurt that!
Once cover is loose, start flipping away from the topside until a gap of about 8 mm (keep the bottom where it is). Peek inside from the top:
You see a flat connector from the camera to the PBA. Flip it up with a screwdriver.
Separate Frontside (it has the LCD and PBA connected) and frame (with camera) carefully. Take care at bottom of the device as the connectors on the PBA are inserted in the frame.
Done
Rest is easy as there is nothing hidden. For Keyboard removal you need a small PH00 cross screwdriver.
can i get guide with pictures.ive searched on google for hours but i havent found any .i really dont want anything to go wrong
Michaelbukachi said:
does anybody know how to disassemble a spv c600 since i want to replace a cover
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you look at http://www.modaco.com/content/torna...co-com/241033/i-mate-sp5-tornado-disassembly/
or try look from http://cellphonerepairtutorials.blogspot.com/search/label/HTC Service Manual

Replacing screen.

I'm trying to replace the screen on my Arrive. But I can't figure out how to get the screen out. It looks like I can pop out the back behind it, but I can't figure out how it disassembles. is there a tutorial out there or something?
To replace the *glass*, which I'm assuming is what you mean (not the LCD - they're separate in this phone, for once!)
Follow the "replace HTC 7 Pro memory card" instructions to remove the first back piece. Next, remove the screws in the next plastic back and remove it as well (it'll be easier to remove as it's just screws and contacts - no clips or wires). At this point you should see an exposed PCB, and your phone's hinge (a set of springs).
Undo the 4 screws holding the hinges on, along with the two screws holding the "pop-up" bezel (there are access holes for them - it'll make sense once you get there).
Slide the hinges across the back of the display (like you were opening the phone, but pull by the hinges! otherwise you'll break the display cable) and you'll see two screws which hold covers onto the back of the display panel. Undo the one for the bottom panel and pry the plastic bottom panel off from the back to gain access to the touchscreen connector.
Next, take a heat gun to your display and pry the glass off - I hope your glass is shattered and that's why you're replacing it because otherwise this is hugely difficult - the glass is glued on and glued on tight!
You'll see the glass is attached via flex cable thru the plastic to a connector inside the back - this is why you had to take your whole phone apart! Carefully lift the tape covering the connector, flip up the connector, and remove the old touchscreen ribbon cable and chip. Thread the new one through and reverse steps to install.
I just used the remainder of the old glue to stick my new display on, by setting it under some heavy books overnight. Your mileage will probably vary - I'm not too picky and a slightly loose/mushy screen beats a shattered one for me so I just left it at that.
Otherwise you'll probably have to figure out how to glue the display glass back on properly.
http://forum.ppcgeeks.com/htc-arrive-7-pro/144512-htc-arrive-disassembly.html
Sent from my PG41200 using XDA Premium App
Generally, I would look for one of the teardowns that have become popular for when devices are first released.....sort of the one-upping of the unboxing video.
I had trouble finding a decent disassembly - the "big" disassembly sites (ifixit etc.) seem to have ignored the Arrive and all I found on YouTube was horrid quality and mostly worthless.
That ppcgeeks thread is definitely the best resource for pics - I found that peeling the metal tape and unplugging the entire display/front piece was unnecessary by exercising some care to not break the ribbons, and I found that I needed to go a step further and remove the bottom (behind the buttons) plastic cover from the display piece to access the touch digitizer flex cable (which was behind some horribly obnoxious yellow tape).
Replace Screen under digitizer
Does anyone have a walk through on how to change the actual screen under the digitizer? I took the whole phone apart, but everything on the screen half of the phone seems to be glued.
I figured i would look around before just prying it open.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Someone please post pics about last steps?
I was able to take hinges out of way but I am not sure if I need to peel off the metalic film. Hence I still have my top cover with glass attached with the back of the phone.
After I reach I have no idea what to do and now putting together my phone without changing broken glass!

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